So I've got an 04 forester with an na 2.5 and its had the p0030 since I've had it. Anyway I found the factory service manual and followed the diagnostics to a T. I checked the resistance from the wiring from the Ecu to the o2 sensor connector and I did discover the pins for 3 and 4 were back to front, connector looks new so I guess someone changed it but put them back to front. Anyway I fixed that and continued the checks, the wiring all has very low resistance so no shorts from that test. I could trace continuity from the ecu and main relay to all 4 pins on the connector. Tested resistance on the sensor and got 2.5ohm on the sensor so within spec. Everything should be fine according to the diagnostic flowchart. Starting to think its the ecu or I need to bite the bullet and buy an expensive oem sensor. The wiring and connectors look brand new though so I guess its been replaced and it didn't fix it
i have heard it mentioned elsewhere that a bad air fuel sensor is most likely what is causing random jerky acceleration in my 2008 outback. has anybody else hear heard similar or infact found this to be true based on personal first hand experience ?
Yes, eventually. The computer will turn of the light but it can take up to 70 miles or a combo of local/highway driving. Your local part store will more than likely turn off the check engine light for free or you can buy a cheap code reader for $20.
2004 Subaru Outback Wagon EJ259 - So, I confirmed continuity with AF Sensor, and its good. I also checked the source and was getting 12.34 dcv. But it's still throwing a P0300 Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1, heater control - circuit malfunction code...what else is going on?
Untape the female plug and find the pair with a screen like a TV cable , this has an input between 0 and 1.0 voltage like a thermocouple, the heater wires are the other 2, put 12volts on it and it will get hot pulling 5amps, go with oe denso or repeat , take the front manifold off if its seized, it'll take 3months to settle in ,
Anyone got any ideas for a 3.0 H6 Boxer? I have a 2005 outback 3.0 LL Bean, recently got a new transmission put in and now p0031 code for bank 1 sensor 1 is on and is making my car run bad, never did this before transmission replacement. I've replaced both front sensors, on each side, with denso, I've ran 44k platinum through gas, checked the wires for splits. I have talked to many people and I've done everything, won't go away. Almost $15k in this car now and this is messing everything up. Anyone? Please
Great video, thanks(: I'm getting "Subaru P0031" Can you link me the part I need? My local shop quoted me $400 for the part, said it would take 1.5 hours. I became furious once I saw how easy it is in your video. I believe I've found the part I need, most are like $40, NOT $400.
@@mikehall9666 Same thing happened to me, the same code came back, along with a new code "oxygen sensor leak". When I installed the sensor my engine was cold and I don't think I tightened it enough because I didn't want to damage the threads. Fix: I put the O2 socket on, let my car warm up for 20min, then used my breaker bar with the extensions on it to reach down and give the sensor one more courter turn or so. Turned the car off, cleared the codes, at first the car will run a bit funny as it calibrates to the new sensor. After it idled for a while I took it for a drive and it's been fine for a few weeks!
@@salaheddinebelghiti4956 I installed the new sensor, then the same code came back, along with a new code "oxygen sensor leak". When I installed the sensor my engine was cold and I don't think I tightened it enough because I didn't want to damage the threads. FIX: I put the O2 socket on, let my car warm up for 20min, then used my breaker bar with the extensions on it to reach down and give the sensor one more courter turn or so. Turned the car off, cleared the codes, at first the car will run a bit funny as it calibrates to the new sensor. After it idled for a while I took it for a drive and it's been fine for a few weeks!
Did you check for power at the sensor? He didn't cover it, but there's a relay providing power to the sensor. If the relay goes bad, the sensor's not the problem, and replacing the sensor won't fix it. The relay might be an expensive part to replace, because it's in a horrible location, buried in the passenger side dash behind the glove box. You can get to it, but it's pretty hard without disassembling half the dash on that side. OTOH, if they're replacing the sensor with a Denso or Subaru, it's a pretty expensive part. But the Bosch sensors supposedly don't respond as fast and some people say that's a problem.
You saved me 600 bucks man. My dealership is a rip off
So I've got an 04 forester with an na 2.5 and its had the p0030 since I've had it.
Anyway I found the factory service manual and followed the diagnostics to a T.
I checked the resistance from the wiring from the Ecu to the o2 sensor connector and I did discover the pins for 3 and 4 were back to front, connector looks new so I guess someone changed it but put them back to front.
Anyway I fixed that and continued the checks, the wiring all has very low resistance so no shorts from that test. I could trace continuity from the ecu and main relay to all 4 pins on the connector.
Tested resistance on the sensor and got 2.5ohm on the sensor so within spec.
Everything should be fine according to the diagnostic flowchart.
Starting to think its the ecu or I need to bite the bullet and buy an expensive oem sensor. The wiring and connectors look brand new though so I guess its been replaced and it didn't fix it
I've been trying to find the specs but no luck, do you know if 2.2 ohms heating element reading is within specs?
@@AJ........ Try testing it hot and cold. if there is difference it the heating element should be good.
Your testing the heater circuit right, not the actual sensing circuit??
Thank you very much. You helped me replace mine. I appreciate it very much.
When i put my odb2 code detecter, how many volt im suppose to get for the HO2S Heater Control Circuit, the bank 1 sensor 1. Thanks
can i use a wrench or any other tool instead of the socket to take on and off the sensor?
Yes 👍
I got the p015a and p015b cel codes. Is that the same sensor you did? Bank1 sensor1? I have a 17 wrx. Thanks for the video and any reply. 😊
Can you tell me the part number of that denso sensor? I'd be very gratefull. Thank you
Came here for this info
Excellent educational videos
Thanks
I had my forester xs oxy sensor replaced (B1S1) however the check engine light still on, what should I do ?
I replaced the engine air filter in the fall last year, and not long after my check engine light comes on sporadically 😮
This video goes to my fav videos ......thx for teaching us !!!
You are so welcome!
i have heard it mentioned elsewhere that a bad air fuel sensor is most likely what is causing random jerky acceleration in my 2008 outback. has anybody else hear heard similar or infact found this to be true based on personal first hand experience ?
Got promblems wirh start engine
@@adrianzieba1772 nah mate, i serviced a whole bunch of stuff under the hood and its all running good lately ;)
Very good video. Thanks
I've got an 02 Outback and my pre cat sensor has 6 prongs, which ones do I test?
I got 2.5L on my multimeter is that bad or good?
Does it make your car not run past four RPMs
Will the light turn off by them self after u install the new sensor?
Yes, eventually. The computer will turn of the light but it can take up to 70 miles or a combo of local/highway driving. Your local part store will more than likely turn off the check engine light for free or you can buy a cheap code reader for $20.
Link to the scan tool looks very different that the tool you are using ?
Is this the same location as a 09 legacy 2.5i
hello, does the sensor in the video cause traction problems at lower revs and on the ramp? my car 2010- subaru legacy - 2.0 eleganc
NO
im getting 2.2 ohms. is that too low?
Greetings,
On my 2015 Forester, I got the code P0171.
Should I replace both or determine which is the faulty one?
It’s been 3 months, you’ve probably done what you’ll do, but p0171 is classically a code solved by cleaning the MAF with MAF cleaner,
@@elonchan4883 replaced both sensors and it cleared it up, good for another 60K miles :D
I have the p0030 in my impreza 2011 and after i check the sensor the number was 1.4 ohm. Is that ok?
yes
What obd scan is that?
2004 Subaru Outback Wagon EJ259 - So, I confirmed continuity with AF Sensor, and its good. I also checked the source and was getting 12.34 dcv. But it's still throwing a P0300 Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1, heater control - circuit malfunction code...what else is going on?
broke
Great video thanks!
Hi. Which wire is the signal wire
Untape the female plug and find the pair with a screen like a TV cable , this has an input between 0 and 1.0 voltage like a thermocouple, the heater wires are the other 2, put 12volts on it and it will get hot pulling 5amps, go with oe denso or repeat , take the front manifold off if its seized, it'll take 3months to settle in ,
Anyone got any ideas for a 3.0 H6 Boxer? I have a 2005 outback 3.0 LL Bean, recently got a new transmission put in and now p0031 code for bank 1 sensor 1 is on and is making my car run bad, never did this before transmission replacement. I've replaced both front sensors, on each side, with denso, I've ran 44k platinum through gas, checked the wires for splits. I have talked to many people and I've done everything, won't go away. Almost $15k in this car now and this is messing everything up. Anyone? Please
If it was run for a long time with bad sensors, your converter can be clogged up!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
U did the easy one
Great video, thanks(:
I'm getting "Subaru P0031" Can you link me the part I need?
My local shop quoted me $400 for the part, said it would take 1.5 hours. I became furious once I saw how easy it is in your video. I believe I've found the part I need, most are like $40, NOT $400.
Hi,
I have the same issue P0031 Heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 1 HO2S11
Did you found any solution for it
Thank you
Same i changed the sensor and cleared light and came back on about 30mins after driving
@@mikehall9666 Same thing happened to me, the same code came back, along with a new code "oxygen sensor leak". When I installed the sensor my engine was cold and I don't think I tightened it enough because I didn't want to damage the threads.
Fix: I put the O2 socket on, let my car warm up for 20min, then used my breaker bar with the extensions on it to reach down and give the sensor one more courter turn or so. Turned the car off, cleared the codes, at first the car will run a bit funny as it calibrates to the new sensor. After it idled for a while I took it for a drive and it's been fine for a few weeks!
@@salaheddinebelghiti4956 I installed the new sensor, then the same code came back, along with a new code "oxygen sensor leak". When I installed the sensor my engine was cold and I don't think I tightened it enough because I didn't want to damage the threads.
FIX: I put the O2 socket on, let my car warm up for 20min, then used my breaker bar with the extensions on it to reach down and give the sensor one more courter turn or so. Turned the car off, cleared the codes, at first the car will run a bit funny as it calibrates to the new sensor. After it idled for a while I took it for a drive and it's been fine for a few weeks!
Did you check for power at the sensor? He didn't cover it, but there's a relay providing power to the sensor. If the relay goes bad, the sensor's not the problem, and replacing the sensor won't fix it. The relay might be an expensive part to replace, because it's in a horrible location, buried in the passenger side dash behind the glove box. You can get to it, but it's pretty hard without disassembling half the dash on that side.
OTOH, if they're replacing the sensor with a Denso or Subaru, it's a pretty expensive part. But the Bosch sensors supposedly don't respond as fast and some people say that's a problem.
Looks like it's got a bad head gasket