You just took so much stress off of me! Thank you so much for sharing all your knowledge!! You've put a lot of time and effort into fixing this and then was kind enough to share it, to help others. Mine just started doing it today!! Your video was the FIRST THING I looked up online! Now, I think I can fix this bad boy by myself. 44 year old chic, fixing her own 2005 350z touring convertible ( 55k miles). Man ,THANK YOU !!!! And wish me luck.
Thanks, fixed mine without removing the fork, just used 12mm wrench and a pair of pliers. My clutch pedal didn't come up all the way and there seemed to be a fair amount of play between the pedal arm and the fork parts. Likely Also note the clutch has a switch at the top of it which must be pressed in - i.e. cluch pedal up - before cruise control can be enabled. I adjusted my pedal travel using the rod to ensure the switch is fully activated but without the clutch pedal itself applying pressure on the rest of the switch assembly. Thanks for posting the video. Saved me a lot of time.
Replace the pin in the connecting fork as well. My z had the same exact issue and all it was is that the pin had worn down where the fork makes contact. I replaced the pin and perfect clutch once more. Any and all hardware stores have them. Be sure you purchase a grade 8. Pin to prevent where it’s like a 2 dollar fix.
@@seandadwan5275 no ended up finding out the rubber pieces to press both the clutch ignition switch and cruise control button were crumbling to little pieces ended up getting some from z1motorsports
Thank you so much. I have been trying to figure out this issue for years, literally YEARS! First I thought it was the slave cylinder/master cylinder, then I thought it was the clutch line and then I replaced the clutch fluid with DOT 5.1 fluid. Still no dice. Was about to purchase a stainless steel clutch line and a new slave cylinder. Today, after buying a small wrench, squirming my way under the steering column and a lot of swearing, I completed the fix and the clutch feels much better. I actually lost that little pin after removing but thankfully found it attached to the magnets at the bottom of my flashlight. Lesson learned, all parts, are going into a dedicated bin next time. Hopefully the fix stays and it's such a relief to have finally found a working solution. Thanks again and keep up the great content!
so glad I found this. Going on a long road trip in my datsun, was about to replace the whole hydraulic line/master/slave and dot 5.1. I'll try this first and its free. You're the man, hoping this works. planning on flipping the car next year since its worth about 3-4x what I paid for it now.
Just want to say thank you. I've been driving my car for over a year with crappy clutch feel and now it's an instinct to pop it back up after I shift. Took it out for a drive after doing this and it's like I'm driving a different car
This will probably sounds stupid, but I was about to perform the fix in this video when I figured out the pin that holds the fork to the pedal was stuck and bound up. I spun the pin around and put a little lube on it and now everything feels normal again. Maybe this was a fluke, but figured I would pass this info along
Also keep in mind that if you back off the connecting fork it’s allowing the slave to push out a little farther inside the transmission. So that should tell you that the pressure plate is getting worn out if you have to push it in farther to get enuff back movement to push your pedal back in to the resting position
Hey, this actually work thank you for the video. I was already building a habit to just bring it back with my feet. I still have that muscle memory to bring it back even though it's already up.😂😂
Having this problem on the used Hilux I just bought. I’ve tried countless things that don’t fix it. I will try this next since this is the first time I’ve seen it. Hope it fixes it, would make much sense since the clutch pedal just needs to come over that point where it jumps back up
Mine gets stuck after driving for 20-30 mins because it's hot. Especially hot weather it gets stuck quicker. Cooler days tend to be better would this help it?
Yep I had the same issue, just adjust the master cylinder to push the pedal a little bit more forward as shown in the video and it should fix your issue. It's not necessarily because it's hot, but because you've been pressing on it for a little while, so the master cylinder doesn't have the power to push it all the way back up without this adjustment. When you leave your car sitting overnight or for a few hours, the pedal gets used to the proper position until you start pressing on it again.
Yes, hot/cold weather affects the pedal issue. Mine has this problem especially since I live in hot/humid climate. During the winter when its 80F or below I never have the sticky pedal issue.
This is a check valve behind your gaurd on pasanger side. That has coursed me hell till i found it. Spent 5500$ repairing it and got new slave and master cylinder. Then found a clutch check valve cylinder behind the plastic on pasanger side. If its soft and wont work on peddle well, you could have air stuck in it 😬
Aloha from Kailua, Hawai'i Aaron. I was having the same problem with the clutch pedal in my 2003 Nissan Frontier after I replaced the clutch slave cylinder. Super annoying having to pull the clutch pedal up to use the cruise control. In my Frontier I had to remove the 2 nuts holding the master cylinder to the firewall but after that super easy to remove the pin, and give the fork one full rotation then put everything back together again, maybe 15 minutes of work. Mahalo nui for the easy remedy suggestion..
Same problem was my bugeye wrx..halfway up and stucking a ltl bit.... your vid helped me to solve this problem...thqnk you so much.. before was looking like 5 times what the problem could be.. thank you
Had the same problem on my 350z Race Car here in the UK. Just followed the video & it's fixed. It was tricky pulling back the pedal on the circuit! Thanks Aaron great advice.
@@cheeto408 I did what he shows in the video and it fixed my clutch pedal from not returning all the way. Fixed it 3 months ago and it's still good. I only had this issue after having a new clutch installed.
@@YoSkatan ah I. Heavily g the same issue but I've been having this clutch for a minute. But I think it's the fluid that needs changing. Where did u get your part from ?
AnthonyJ350 yessir!! I actually have a video of installing it and reasons why it’s much better than the stock one. Appreciate you! This was like my first video ever 😂
@@AaronNewman Well I'm you newest subscriber so I'll be watching out for your projects. Feel free to send me a link if you got something cool going on so I can check it out!
thanks dude, i forgot that i can turn the shaft of the MC instead of removing that clevis. I just installed a new clutch and my pedal was a bit off. thanks again.
@@Beliefacy if he says he never does digs it means his already rolling when he steps on the pedal in first gear a dig would be from a complete stop and floring it
clockwise so that the fork pushes the clevis forward forwards the driver. as you turn it, there will be less threads into the clevis which in turn gives the clutch more 'free play'. there needs to be a minimum amount of free play or the clutch won't come back up properly
Cool deal man thanks for the video, I’m going to try it out on my car here in a little bit. My pedal sticks really close to the floor now. Hopefully that’s the answer
Hey man i have the same issue changed the whole clutch kit with slave cylinder now my mechanic is saying change the master cylinder aswel. But my clutch stuck half way..then i can pull it out with my foot
Question - were you still able to shift the car into gear with the sticky clutch issue beforehand? My car is doing this and the master cylinder has been replaced/bled but still sticking. And the car won’t shift into gear when it’s on. Thanks!
I do this but then my bite point is to high, I've bleeded my clutch line and changed both master and slave cylinder, and it still not coming all the way up while keeping the bite point low, please help
I have the same issue on my 07 g35 coupe revup and I tried this but I can’t get the fork off the pedal to adjust it, any tips? I’m going to try to fix it again tomorrow
I just changed out my clutch on my 350Z with a JWT and I push the clutch in it comes part way out is this the issue because I have a new clutch or did I mess something up when I reinstalled the clutch and transmission?
The main issue here is with the pedal assembly itself. Sometimes you have to adjust that fork piece so that the master cylinder applies more pressure to push the pedal back up. However, eventually the issue returned for me and I've got the RJM clutch pedal assembly and I couldn't be happier with the feel. Check out my RJM video! It will explain the issue about the stock clutch assembly a little bit more. But for the quick fix, loosen the locking nut behind the fork, and take some small vice grips to the rod and turn the rod so that the fork unscrews from the rod and is not positioned towards the end of the rod. Only do this about 2-4 rotations.
Right now I am having an issue I can’t figure out.. help? I bought a car with a new clutch. At the beginning. as I started letting out the petal from the floor, the clutch would grab hard. Didn’t have any issues other than a tick when I had the petal out and in N… When I’d press it in the noise went away.. the slave cylinder was bad so I replaced it and the master as well, bled them really well. And still had the tick and the petal would be slow to return all the way.. it would Pop back 60% of the way then slowly the rest of the way.. if you let your foot off the petal fast it basically comes up and then slaps the bottom of your foot.. now when I have clutch pressed in all the way I can’t get into 1st gear.. sometimes if i shift into 4th then try 1st it will work but it’s stiff.. once I get it into 1st gear I can come back to neutral and any other gear ( keep in mind car isn’t moving at all during all this. Just clutch in and manipulating the shifter.) but say i go back to neutral and let the clutch out all the way, then press it in again.. im back to square1 … can’t get into 1st gear.. stiff as a rock.. but I can sometimes get it into 4th and then 1st again after that.. any time I let the clutch out all the way in N I can’t get into 1st … side note when the cars not running I can go through all the gears .. clutch in and out doesn’t affect it.. only while running. Thanks for reading this ..
Had my 05 Z under cover for two weeks and just rolled into work with it about 50 miles from home. Clutch wouldn't engage the gears right outside the building carpark, on a main road. Had to Arnold that first gear in, then once in the car park, I couldn't get it to reverse. Looked up online and this was the first thing I saw...hopefully the pedal has returned to its normal position now it's been in the car park a few hours and I can get home okay. Will try this method and let you know if it works on my Z.
Okay, it's the next day, went out to do this this morning and it's a no go. My clutch fork comes from the top down, and has a thick, 4 - 5cm spring on it. If I take it off, I'm never getting it back on. Managed to drive home last night with no major concerns, although the pedal did try to stick a couple of times. Going to leave it to the professionals and let them look at it. But in no way does this mean your method doesn't work.
Another update: So Nissan mechanics took a look and it turned out all it was, was the need for a new piece of hose and some fresh/new, clutch fluid! That's it! I think many people forget to change clutch fluid. Now it's working like a charm!
Anyone know why it keeps happening tho it worked then I drove it and it happened again ima look into it right now see if i can find a problem but in the past it’s worked just to do this but now I’m thinking it’s the slave or master
Can you tell me why sometimes its hard for me to put my shifter into gear, especially when i drive the hell out of it. Ill be driving my car normally than when i stop at a red light or stop sign i try to put my car in first gear and its like it wont go in that gear or any gear... i have to use all my might to force my shifter into gear...and btw i have a new transmission and clutch. - Is my master or slave cylinder bad?
It's the clutch pedal making shit sticky I'm on the same issue with my 02 max 6spd... Nissan made a flawed design that's why their clutch pedal assembly is discontinued.
john1120 - Actually all my issues went away when i bought a better quality master cylinder then i had to adjust the clutch pedal nut thingy. Autozone master cylinders are not the best.
@@slowgoat6089 omg auto zone...yes a good brand is where u wanna be with these cars they are very picky on parts. It's like having an expensive girlfriend lol.
I can't really answer this question because there are many factors that could be causing this problem. You could have a bad slave cylinder, bad master cylinder, or bad pedal assembly like I did. If the issue returns shortly after you've adjusted it, try adjusting it more or cleaning your master cylinder and bleed the system. If it still continues try getting a new master, new slave, and possibly the RJM clutch pedal assembly like I did. The clutch now feels flawless
TheRandlefox oh shit mine doesn't stick until it has been running for awhile although I feel like I can hear the flywheel spinning when I don't engage it I was told to replace the clutch and it will stop I replaced the clutch master cylinder but no bleed because the pin was snapped off not much of a difference
My car stalled on me as I drove into my community after driving home from work today (27miles away). I pulled over and started it back up and made it to my house. As I was pulling into the garage I smelled a burning smell and heard a little squeaking. Then smoke started coming out from the grill. I began to think she was throwing a bearing as she has 241K miles on her. I shut it off and popped the hood trying to identify where the smoke was coming from. No smoke from the front of the engine, it was coming from the lower back side of the engine. I thought wait that smells like clutch. I shut it off for a min then got back in a stated it up. I Pushed the clutch in and it didn't return all the way. Do you think this is an adjustment issue or am I the only one here who probably had the master/slave cylinder die?
I notice you had to have your pedal adjusted all the way up (i used to have it that way too). Check this pedal mod out, you won't regret it. th-cam.com/video/E5cpYiVZNRI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the info bud, but I'm way ahead of you! Already purchased and I'm waiting on it to show up to my door step! I'll definitely be making a review and installation video
supras7 no this mod did not fail on me, it can't really fail. but the stock pedal assembly relies on the master cylinder hydraulic to be pushed back up. the rjm pedal has its own spring and is much smoother, that's why I'm getting the pedal
Lol o bought mine last yr and it just today suddenly un stuck by itself maybe its the heat i dont know...tbh i didnt even knpw it was stuck iys just the last inch where it thumps ...now i feel weird driving because im used to it😂 smh anyone let me know if i should check for any problems you think i might have from this
Sounds like the same issue we're all having. It's just the OEM nissan pedal assembly that's garbage. Over time it will begin to stick because it relies on the master cylinder to push it back. I recommend the RJM clutch pedal and it's a good idea to replace your master and slave cylinders and bleed the whole system with new fluid for the perfect fix.
Sometimes only your master cylinder needs an adjustment, however, switching to the RJM clutch pedal really helped smooth out the clutch throw and make it easier and more comfortable to shift gears.
Aaron Newman thanks it hasnt been sticking anymore ill def take your advice and switch it ...right now dealing with very annoying 02 sensor problem, and passenger door handle broke, and passenger window motor😂 but gotta love the z
You just took so much stress off of me! Thank you so much for sharing all your knowledge!! You've put a lot of time and effort into fixing this and then was kind enough to share it, to help others. Mine just started doing it today!! Your video was the FIRST THING I looked up online! Now, I think I can fix this bad boy by myself. 44 year old chic, fixing her own 2005 350z touring convertible ( 55k miles). Man ,THANK YOU !!!! And wish me luck.
Bro you are a life saver. Literally just went outside to do this and fixed my issue. I was legit going to trade the car in
Thanks, fixed mine without removing the fork, just used 12mm wrench and a pair of pliers.
My clutch pedal didn't come up all the way and there seemed to be a fair amount of play between the pedal arm and the fork parts. Likely
Also note the clutch has a switch at the top of it which must be pressed in - i.e. cluch pedal up - before cruise control can be enabled. I adjusted my pedal travel using the rod to ensure the switch is fully activated but without the clutch pedal itself applying pressure on the rest of the switch assembly.
Thanks for posting the video. Saved me a lot of time.
Replace the pin in the connecting fork as well. My z had the same exact issue and all it was is that the pin had worn down where the fork makes contact. I replaced the pin and perfect clutch once more. Any and all hardware stores have them. Be sure you purchase a grade 8. Pin to prevent where it’s like a 2 dollar fix.
having trouble to find the exact pin mine is a little worn aswell
@@itzbrancdid u find it bro
@@seandadwan5275 no ended up finding out the rubber pieces to press both the clutch ignition switch and cruise control button were crumbling to little pieces ended up getting some from z1motorsports
Thank you so much. I have been trying to figure out this issue for years, literally YEARS! First I thought it was the slave cylinder/master cylinder, then I thought it was the clutch line and then I replaced the clutch fluid with DOT 5.1 fluid. Still no dice. Was about to purchase a stainless steel clutch line and a new slave cylinder.
Today, after buying a small wrench, squirming my way under the steering column and a lot of swearing, I completed the fix and the clutch feels much better. I actually lost that little pin after removing but thankfully found it attached to the magnets at the bottom of my flashlight. Lesson learned, all parts, are going into a dedicated bin next time.
Hopefully the fix stays and it's such a relief to have finally found a working solution. Thanks again and keep up the great content!
so glad I found this. Going on a long road trip in my datsun, was about to replace the whole hydraulic line/master/slave and dot 5.1. I'll try this first and its free. You're the man, hoping this works. planning on flipping the car next year since its worth about 3-4x what I paid for it now.
You sir saved me and my Zed from a whole lot of stress just got the SS Line, slave swapped and flushed with GTR fluid.... and still it got stuck worse
Just want to say thank you. I've been driving my car for over a year with crappy clutch feel and now it's an instinct to pop it back up after I shift. Took it out for a drive after doing this and it's like I'm driving a different car
Aaron youre the man!! Big thanks for all youve done with the 350z videos, helped a lot of us average people out a lot!
This will probably sounds stupid, but I was about to perform the fix in this video when I figured out the pin that holds the fork to the pedal was stuck and bound up. I spun the pin around and put a little lube on it and now everything feels normal again. Maybe this was a fluke, but figured I would pass this info along
Also keep in mind that if you back off the connecting fork it’s allowing the slave to push out a little farther inside the transmission. So that should tell you that the pressure plate is getting worn out if you have to push it in farther to get enuff back movement to push your pedal back in to the resting position
Replaced my clutch master and was bleeding for like 2hrs same issue. Adjusted the fork out about 4 turns and it’s almost perfect
Hey, this actually work thank you for the video. I was already building a habit to just bring it back with my feet. I still have that muscle memory to bring it back even though it's already up.😂😂
The free play pedal adjustment seems to put the hydraulics in a mechanically advantageous state! It's been years now and the pedal remains great 🚘💪
Rudy VQdriver cringe
Having this problem on the used Hilux I just bought. I’ve tried countless things that don’t fix it. I will try this next since this is the first time I’ve seen it. Hope it fixes it, would make much sense since the clutch pedal just needs to come over that point where it jumps back up
Mine gets stuck after driving for 20-30 mins because it's hot. Especially hot weather it gets stuck quicker. Cooler days tend to be better would this help it?
Yep I had the same issue, just adjust the master cylinder to push the pedal a little bit more forward as shown in the video and it should fix your issue. It's not necessarily because it's hot, but because you've been pressing on it for a little while, so the master cylinder doesn't have the power to push it all the way back up without this adjustment. When you leave your car sitting overnight or for a few hours, the pedal gets used to the proper position until you start pressing on it again.
Aaron Newman it's hard to turn the bolt
Aaron Newman and it barely has threads left to move the bolt towards myself
FunnyVids did you figure out what it was? Same issue when it's hot out not when it's cold
Yes, hot/cold weather affects the pedal issue. Mine has this problem especially since I live in hot/humid climate. During the winter when its 80F or below I never have the sticky pedal issue.
This is a check valve behind your gaurd on pasanger side. That has coursed me hell till i found it. Spent 5500$ repairing it and got new slave and master cylinder. Then found a clutch check valve cylinder behind the plastic on pasanger side. If its soft and wont work on peddle well, you could have air stuck in it 😬
Aloha from Kailua, Hawai'i Aaron. I was having the same problem with the clutch pedal in my 2003 Nissan Frontier after I replaced the clutch slave cylinder. Super annoying having to pull the clutch pedal up to use the cruise control. In my Frontier I had to remove the 2 nuts holding the master cylinder to the firewall but after that super easy to remove the pin, and give the fork one full rotation then put everything back together again, maybe 15 minutes of work. Mahalo nui for the easy remedy suggestion..
Great tip! I was about to replace my slave cylinder but this fix it! Thank you 👍
Same problem was my bugeye wrx..halfway up and stucking a ltl bit.... your vid helped me to solve this problem...thqnk you so much.. before was looking like 5 times what the problem could be.. thank you
I have an s2000 but it should be the same. Thanks man and manual is the way to go 💪💯
Had the same problem on my 350z Race Car here in the UK. Just followed the video & it's fixed. It was tricky pulling back the pedal on the circuit! Thanks Aaron great advice.
Was it a constant problem my clutch gets stuck like that sometimes not all the time
Changed my slave and bled the system, still had issues. Thank you so much for this!
Did u find the problem ?
@@cheeto408 I did what he shows in the video and it fixed my clutch pedal from not returning all the way. Fixed it 3 months ago and it's still good. I only had this issue after having a new clutch installed.
@@YoSkatan ah I. Heavily g the same issue but I've been having this clutch for a minute. But I think it's the fluid that needs changing. Where did u get your part from ?
@@YoSkatan i have changed my clutch two weeka ago with slave cylinder and its giving me the same problem...
@@cheeto408 Check out Z1 Motorsports, they specialize in Infiniti and Nissan. They have everything, OEM and performance parts.
Thanks brother. Great video Aaron. Fixed my issue and saved me from a visit to the mechanic.
Nice one I am having this exact issue ! Well done !
Have you ever looked into the RJM Clutch pedal assembly? I fixes this problem and give you a proper clutch feel. Good video, keep it up!
AnthonyJ350 yessir!! I actually have a video of installing it and reasons why it’s much better than the stock one. Appreciate you! This was like my first video ever 😂
@@AaronNewman Right on man, just checking out your channel. Some really good stuff on here!
@@AnthonyJ350 Thank you for the recognition brother! I've watched a bunch of your videos too man good stuff. Keep up the good work.
@@AaronNewman Well I'm you newest subscriber so I'll be watching out for your projects. Feel free to send me a link if you got something cool going on so I can check it out!
Thank you so much for this vid! Saved me big time!
thanks dude, i forgot that i can turn the shaft of the MC instead of removing that clevis. I just installed a new clutch and my pedal was a bit off. thanks again.
What if the clutch petal lags… like I let off it and it returns 3/4 of the way.. then a second later comes the rest of the way out..
My clutch is doing this too in my revup G35. It happens whenever i do a pull from first gear. And i never do digs
same only happens then i never do digs
Wtf is a "digs"
@@Beliefacy if he says he never does digs it means his already rolling when he steps on the pedal in first gear a dig would be from a complete stop and floring it
Dang man i have been living with this issue for over a year now, i never thought to adjust that ill give it a try thanks
Do you turn clockwise or counterclockwise becuase clockwise it goes in further....
clockwise so that the fork pushes the clevis forward forwards the driver. as you turn it, there will be less threads into the clevis which in turn gives the clutch more 'free play'. there needs to be a minimum amount of free play or the clutch won't come back up properly
thanks for this video , will give this a try when I get a day off !! enjoy your videos man , keep it up.
Thank you very much bro, i just came cross this issue after replacing my slave cylinder and master cylinder with the heavy duty wilwood package...
This video solve my problem BIG TIME!!! Thanks man 👍🏻
Would this work for a Ford focus?
Cool deal man thanks for the video, I’m going to try it out on my car here in a little bit. My pedal sticks really close to the floor now. Hopefully that’s the answer
This help I just changed the hole thing and yup it was exactly what u said so thanks
How did you manage to release the nut? There is no room for me to turn it with a 12mm spanner.
I found it easier to buy a shorter 12mm wrench, I was able to fit it in way easier
Would it be like that constantly or be off and on, like back to normal ?
my spec v is acting up the last day or so. gonna check this out. much love brother. very good heads up on that nut getting busted...loose.
hey bro need ur help ,my g37 coupe has that problem
Did u fix it I have the same problem
I'm going to have to try this.
I’m having about the same problem except that it don’t even come half way up feel like there is no pressure ? Could it be there slave cylinder?
Hey man i have the same issue changed the whole clutch kit with slave cylinder now my mechanic is saying change the master cylinder aswel.
But my clutch stuck half way..then i can pull it out with my foot
Question - were you still able to shift the car into gear with the sticky clutch issue beforehand?
My car is doing this and the master cylinder has been replaced/bled but still sticking. And the car won’t shift into gear when it’s on.
Thanks!
No it does get more difficult. Try adjusting that rod it will help!
What’s the fix when you run out of threads on the clutch cylinder piston?
John Kettlewell buy an RJM clutch petal assembly
Great vid. Fixed my problem right away.
Hey man I got the same issue in my G37 would this also resolve my problem
Did it work for you i got same issue with my 37
How many threads are showing? I just installed stage 2 clutch light weight flywheel new slave and master and I’m still having this issue
Bro that helped alot, because i was about to change master and slave cylinder.
I do this but then my bite point is to high, I've bleeded my clutch line and changed both master and slave cylinder, and it still not coming all the way up while keeping the bite point low, please help
Thanks I was having the same thing in my mustang
I always figured it was something directly to do with the pedal. I am going to get the Wilwood master and SS line kit from Zspeed anyway.
Nice, I'm looking into that same master myself, but I think the RJM pedal mod is by far the best mod for this issue
This video was just what I needed! Thanks man! 350 ready to roll👌🏼!!!
Im having issues getting that pin in, any tips?
Awesome video man. I'm going to try this on my Z tomorrow
I have the same issue on my 07 g35 coupe revup and I tried this but I can’t get the fork off the pedal to adjust it, any tips? I’m going to try to fix it again tomorrow
You actually don't have to take the fork off just loosen the rod's bolt and then spin the rod with your hand :)
I was thinking that after I made that comment last night lol thanks a lot man going to do that now :D
Spin the rod? To the left? Or right?
Max Waters I think to the right
I just changed out my clutch on my 350Z with a JWT and I push the clutch in it comes part way out is this the issue because I have a new clutch or did I mess something up when I reinstalled the clutch and transmission?
I cant get the pin back in. The fork stays a little ti the side how can I fix it??
I Was kind of confused of what you have to do to get it to not stick no more , if you could explain with more detail it would be much help!
The main issue here is with the pedal assembly itself. Sometimes you have to adjust that fork piece so that the master cylinder applies more pressure to push the pedal back up. However, eventually the issue returned for me and I've got the RJM clutch pedal assembly and I couldn't be happier with the feel. Check out my RJM video! It will explain the issue about the stock clutch assembly a little bit more. But for the quick fix, loosen the locking nut behind the fork, and take some small vice grips to the rod and turn the rod so that the fork unscrews from the rod and is not positioned towards the end of the rod. Only do this about 2-4 rotations.
Aaron Newman thanks!
Aaron Newman thanks. Ok turn the rod left or right as we look at it. That's what I'm struggling to get.
How do you loosen the nut behind the fork?
Michael Rivera if I remember correctly, I used a 12 or 14mm flat wrench
Got my hands on a 12mm wrench and made this adjustment. It seems to be working so much better. Thank you for the video 🙏
Right now I am having an issue I can’t figure out.. help? I bought a car with a new clutch. At the beginning. as I started letting out the petal from the floor, the clutch would grab hard. Didn’t have any issues other than a tick when I had the petal out and in N… When I’d press it in the noise went away.. the slave cylinder was bad so I replaced it and the master as well, bled them really well. And still had the tick and the petal would be slow to return all the way.. it would Pop back 60% of the way then slowly the rest of the way.. if you let your foot off the petal fast it basically comes up and then slaps the bottom of your foot.. now when I have clutch pressed in all the way I can’t get into 1st gear.. sometimes if i shift into 4th then try 1st it will work but it’s stiff.. once I get it into 1st gear I can come back to neutral and any other gear ( keep in mind car isn’t moving at all during all this. Just clutch in and manipulating the shifter.) but say i go back to neutral and let the clutch out all the way, then press it in again.. im back to square1 … can’t get into 1st gear.. stiff as a rock.. but I can sometimes get it into 4th and then 1st again after that.. any time I let the clutch out all the way in N I can’t get into 1st … side note when the cars not running I can go through all the gears .. clutch in and out doesn’t affect it.. only while running. Thanks for reading this ..
im about to try this but is my 350z the only one who doesnt go in gear?
Had my 05 Z under cover for two weeks and just rolled into work with it about 50 miles from home. Clutch wouldn't engage the gears right outside the building carpark, on a main road. Had to Arnold that first gear in, then once in the car park, I couldn't get it to reverse. Looked up online and this was the first thing I saw...hopefully the pedal has returned to its normal position now it's been in the car park a few hours and I can get home okay. Will try this method and let you know if it works on my Z.
Okay, it's the next day, went out to do this this morning and it's a no go. My clutch fork comes from the top down, and has a thick, 4 - 5cm spring on it. If I take it off, I'm never getting it back on. Managed to drive home last night with no major concerns, although the pedal did try to stick a couple of times. Going to leave it to the professionals and let them look at it. But in no way does this mean your method doesn't work.
Another update: So Nissan mechanics took a look and it turned out all it was, was the need for a new piece of hose and some fresh/new, clutch fluid! That's it! I think many people forget to change clutch fluid. Now it's working like a charm!
Big thanks bro, fixed my problem 🤙🏽
Is this a common problem that happens after you install a new clutch is what I meant to say in last post
That's the way, I like it! Works as it should! Thanks a lot brother! Cheez
Anyone know why it keeps happening tho it worked then I drove it and it happened again ima look into it right now see if i can find a problem but in the past it’s worked just to do this but now I’m thinking it’s the slave or master
Does it work for 370z as well?
I'm not sure, check out the pedal assembly and if you find out let me know! I'd love to find out
my honda accord clutch pedel was doing the same thing. i tried wd 40. pedal back where it should be
Thank you! Worked for my g 🙏🏼
Any advice on a squeaky noise?
Put grease where there's moving parts on the clutch, that helped me, or change the master cylinder if it's about 50-60k miles oldish
Thank you this video help me a lot finally i fix this issue with my z
How did you get that fork off?
I learned you do not have to remove it. Please read the description for instructions on loosening the rod, thanks!
Thanks man. We figure out that it was the master cylinder.
Joe has a kit to move the cylinder outside the tunnel
for 370Z
Great video please keep sharing your solutions
Can you tell me why sometimes its hard for me to put my shifter into gear, especially when i drive the hell out of it. Ill be driving my car normally than when i stop at a red light or stop sign i try to put my car in first gear and its like it wont go in that gear or any gear... i have to use all my might to force my shifter into gear...and btw i have a new transmission and clutch. - Is my master or slave cylinder bad?
Clit Commander tell me why I went threw that this morning.reverse seem to be the hardest for me.i also got that sticky clutch
Rafagas - i replaced my slave and master, still the same issue. My clutch sticks and i almost can never go into reverse
It's the clutch pedal making shit sticky I'm on the same issue with my 02 max 6spd... Nissan made a flawed design that's why their clutch pedal assembly is discontinued.
john1120 - Actually all my issues went away when i bought a better quality master cylinder then i had to adjust the clutch pedal nut thingy. Autozone master cylinders are not the best.
@@slowgoat6089 omg auto zone...yes a good brand is where u wanna be with these cars they are very picky on parts. It's like having an expensive girlfriend lol.
Mine turned out to be the slave cylinder. Replaced that and problem solved.
hey Aaron do you know why my 350z turns off when I press n my clutch
Is it stalling? Or just turns off? Bad clutch switch? Bad clutch itself?
I have a Subaru Forester with the same problem
So let me ask you it does not usually stick until its been on the road for about and 1 hour or so it will begin to stick same issue you think?
I can't really answer this question because there are many factors that could be causing this problem. You could have a bad slave cylinder, bad master cylinder, or bad pedal assembly like I did. If the issue returns shortly after you've adjusted it, try adjusting it more or cleaning your master cylinder and bleed the system. If it still continues try getting a new master, new slave, and possibly the RJM clutch pedal assembly like I did. The clutch now feels flawless
Thanks bro ill keep you posted
Jesse Tapp my clutch stuck at a cold start
TheRandlefox oh shit mine doesn't stick until it has been running for awhile although I feel like I can hear the flywheel spinning when I don't engage it I was told to replace the clutch and it will stop I replaced the clutch master cylinder but no bleed because the pin was snapped off not much of a difference
So how’s removing the fork and then putting it back fix the issue?
Get your brain fixed first..then you will understand
A. Filatov are you 12 trying to troll on TH-cam? 😂
Thanks so much for you video you help me very well brother
I have same issue on a 2014 mustang gt
What do you twist the fork or that rod?
the rod to save you time from disconnecting the fork
AARON YOU FUCKING LEGEND!!!!! YOU HELPED ME BIG TIME!!! 😭😭😭😭 I WISH I COULD BUY YOU LUNCH OR SOMETHING AS A THANK YOU MAN!!!
Perfect, thank you. Worked great !
My car stalled on me as I drove into my community after driving home from work today (27miles away). I pulled over and started it back up and made it to my house. As I was pulling into the garage I smelled a burning smell and heard a little squeaking. Then smoke started coming out from the grill. I began to think she was throwing a bearing as she has 241K miles on her. I shut it off and popped the hood trying to identify where the smoke was coming from. No smoke from the front of the engine, it was coming from the lower back side of the engine. I thought wait that smells like clutch. I shut it off for a min then got back in a stated it up. I Pushed the clutch in and it didn't return all the way. Do you think this is an adjustment issue or am I the only one here who probably had the master/slave cylinder die?
Hey can you give us an update I just had the same problem with my 350 and am trying to do research to see what I need to fix or do
how does that work exactly?
I notice you had to have your pedal adjusted all the way up (i used to have it that way too). Check this pedal mod out, you won't regret it. th-cam.com/video/E5cpYiVZNRI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the info bud, but I'm way ahead of you! Already purchased and I'm waiting on it to show up to my door step! I'll definitely be making a review and installation video
Aaron Newman Nice! Ya Ryan is awesome
Aaron Newman did the mod fail on you? Is that why u bought the Rjm
supras7 no this mod did not fail on me, it can't really fail. but the stock pedal assembly relies on the master cylinder hydraulic to be pushed back up. the rjm pedal has its own spring and is much smoother, that's why I'm getting the pedal
Aaron Newman so I got the bolt loose and pin out, do I just push the clevis in and then twist so the fork isn't trapped with the pedal between it?
Thanks for the video. Great job
How did you remove the lower dash?
sydebsolo I didn't remove the lower dash I just wiggled my way in lol
I'll try. Took my car to the shop. Guy replace clutch kit ($1000 job). Still having same problem. Ugh
you're a God thank you so much bro
Johnyy Boyyy glad it helped bro
Thanks Aaron!
Confusion what to do with it cant understand
Damn your the real
MVP
Lol o bought mine last yr and it just today suddenly un stuck by itself maybe its the heat i dont know...tbh i didnt even knpw it was stuck iys just the last inch where it thumps ...now i feel weird driving because im used to it😂 smh anyone let me know if i should check for any problems you think i might have from this
Sounds like the same issue we're all having. It's just the OEM nissan pedal assembly that's garbage. Over time it will begin to stick because it relies on the master cylinder to push it back. I recommend the RJM clutch pedal and it's a good idea to replace your master and slave cylinders and bleed the whole system with new fluid for the perfect fix.
Whit 350z what was the outcome of the issue?
Sometimes only your master cylinder needs an adjustment, however, switching to the RJM clutch pedal really helped smooth out the clutch throw and make it easier and more comfortable to shift gears.
Aaron Newman thanks it hasnt been sticking anymore ill def take your advice and switch it ...right now dealing with very annoying 02 sensor problem, and passenger door handle broke, and passenger window motor😂 but gotta love the z
Haha I hear ya I have bank 1 and bank 2 sensor 2 codes right now. Still gotta love it though!