I remember when I was a kid seeing old guys riding 500 &650cc Triumphs and BSA's with nothing more than a old GI duffel bag and bed roll on the back going to rallies. Never saw anyone on a Harley till 76 and it was an old pan head chopper
Roll N Roaster, so many lunches there (cheese fries, yuum). 2701 Emmons Ave my office was there for many years. We would go to Nathans for lunch & ride the coaster for lunches as well. Fun times see you at TWT :
@@oleksasirotinin1532 haha good catch and thank you! While I feel the main characters are the bikes and cars I work on you have me debating doing an introduction video maybe Chanté and myself conversing… let’s see when I run out of projects, like that ever happens lol
Nice vid. Be sure to check the swing arm bushings for torque as well as the shocks and rear axle. DWobble can start in a lot of different places. Great vid! Be well!
@@tta850 Another thing to check, especially if the bike has rubber mount engine, is engine mounts, they can and DO very often cause death wobble... Ask me how I know LOL
@@MegaBruceC I can only imagine how you know 😂 So I’m pretty sure this bike has a solid mounted engine but you have me thinking about the Tour Glide engine cause I know that one is rubber mounted 😳
When you get a new bike from the factory the amount of oil is not guaranteed to be correct lots of factories overfill then use a syringe with a depth setting to remove the oil to leave the correct level as it is much faster than filling with a set amount and checking multiple times. I like to change the oil in my forks slightly earlier than recommended because I'm a big boy so that shit overheats and goes thin sooner than it usually would for a lighter person and I can really feel the difference between worn out oil and fresh and I know I prefer fresh, so it's often one of the first jobs I do when I get a new (to me) bike. Edit: sorry got carried away forgot to make my point - you might not have needed to go up to 15w it might just be that the factory 10w had permanently thinned out with use over time and Chante looks petite to me so I would have gone back to factory fresh 10w because 15w is possibly going to over dampen the setup for her weight.
@@IsntThisAStupidName good points I often take new bikes as they are and wait to consume what they came with before changing, but I’m going to have to rethink that maybe. We shall see what she says worst case I’ve found the job in this machine to be relatively quick to do so I’ll keep in mind fresh 10w may be an option 👍🏻
@@tta850 I wish life was so easy for me but I'm a big fella so stock forks usually dive and bottom out far to easily so I always do a brake full refurb + HH pads and at least front suspension with replacement springs and oil as soon as I get a new bike to make sure it will be able to come to a stop safely. While I am also heavier I do tend to keep the fork oil at 10w because with springs matched to my weight as much as possible the fork should only move as much as someone who is lighter with lower spring rates matched to their weight thus the dampening should work out about the same as the valving has not changed so for road use the dampening should be about the same. But in cases where I cannot get a fork spring that matches my weight exactly - either because no company makes one with a high enough spring rate or whatever reason - then as I mentioned before the oil wears out much faster I guess because of the excessive dive it means a much greater quantity of oil has to flow. I enjoy your tinkering/repairing things videos, and hope your injuries are recovering nicely.
Best to use Bel Ray phosphate ester fork oil. It will last you far longer. It is known as 'Skydrol' in the aviation industry and is used in the hydraulic systems in commercial aircraft because it doesn't burn. Just wear gloves when you are going to come in contact with it and don't get it in your eye. If you do get it in your eye, make sure you have some castor oil to wash it out. It will also increase damping a bit over regular fork oil. It is highly compatible with all synthetic rubbers and will work fine with factory seals.
@@Lurch-Bot I’m gonna look into that, reminds me of when I used to race Turbo Buick powered cars and we used MobilFluid 424 Tractor Fluid in our transmissions (especially if trans brake equipped) for the same reason, the very high burn point. Thank you!
She needs to make sure she has a steering damper installed, and that it's still functioning correctly, they need to be serviced at some point. That should fix her death wobble.
@@SaschaStriegel unfortunately she does not have a steering dampener and I have not been able to find one for a Rebel 300/500 😢 if it continues I may look into fabricating some mounts seems like the only way to get one on there
Wobble is usually a rider induced oscillation. You gotta loosen up on the bars but I suspect, at 80mph, the rider is having trouble staying in the saddle and is compensating by gripping the bars too rigidly. It is tough to stay in a seat like that at high speed on a cruiser. You gotta shift your ass back, lean into the wind, keep your elbows bent and hold the grips loosely. Also, Bel Ray phosphate ester fluid is the only thing I use in my forks. It lasts a lot longer and doesn't break down under the extreme heat produced by hard riding. If you decide to give it a try, wear gloves and don't get it in your eyes. It is very painful. Castor oil is the antidote. Make sure to keep some on hand just in case. It is much easier to get your oil even if you fully disassemble and clean the fork. When it is clean, you just measure out the specified amount and pour it in. Practically impossible to screw it up. But what the fu*k do I know?
@@Lurch-Bot exactly wtf do I know 🤣 That honestly had me laughing my ass off! I will share your comment with Chanté and see if she can pay a little more attention to what she’s doing when it happens. Thank you!
Hey mate, it's a common problem with the rebels. They say to change the front tyre from stock. Also, be careful with phone mounts. I know that sounds crazy, but they say that gives the rebels the shakes. See the link below mate 👍 Get that the vid is for an 1100, but it's common across all the lines.
@@Lord_Ranon original tires wore pretty quick and have been replaced with American Elites but thank you for pointing out the phone mount, hadn’t really given it too much thought. It sounds crazy but also makes some sense too! I gotta see if I can get it over behind the small fairing and out of the wind 👍🏻
UK I like the hagon suspension company for progressive spring kits, think I paid £130 ISH for springs and oil but not sure how they work for USA delivery unless they have a company there, stiffened up and improved my steering and breaking brilliantly, I'd research more as there may be a better set up closer to home for you, put them on two of my xjr1300 and a ninja 600 when I had them, I was impressed, there's also a company called hyperpro shocks do the same
@@davidmurray9193 thanks for the info I will look into them, yeah I’m learning that we each have our issues getting parts something easy for me to get might be harder for you or vice versa… you’d think in this day and age it would be easier 🤦🏻♂️
@@tta850 You would think that but some bike companies love it when you struggle, I'm dreading having to change my battery on my street bob when I have too, big strip down just to get to battery 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Unless she's railing on the bike like being at a track day these bikes should not do this from the factory. It has to be something mechanically wrong, Bad or unbalanced tires, bad wheel bearings, steering head bolt isn't torqued to specs, bad race bearings, etc. I think you're just putting a Band-Aid on the problem unfortunately. If it's still under warranty I'd advise her to bring it back to the dealer and let them spend the money/time diagnosing the problem
@@kugangles9860 normally I would agree, but with so many other people I’ve spoken to both online and in person complaining about the same feeling of instability over rough surfaces makes me think Honda just skimped on parts for cost savings. Just like how the original chain didn’t make 10k miles and original tires were toast at 8k 🤷🏻♂️
@@chrisparker9886 if only they made it for the Rebel (and they should!) If you know a company that makes a kit for it let me know and I’ll try it out 👍🏻
@@BT2SS you are probably right, but I’m thick headed and stubborn 😂 maybe I’ll treat myself as winter sets in and more projects get done on the Harley’s cause I think that’s where it will pay for itself 🤔
Lmao your wife is adorable, she seems so fun to be around, you a lucky man
@@trentbikes lol she is, I am, and I don’t take that for granted! 🙏
Oh, THANKS for the easy fork oil change video.
I think I will go heavier to slow down my front end dive on braking.
I remember when I was a kid seeing old guys riding 500 &650cc Triumphs and BSA's with nothing more than a old GI duffel bag and bed roll on the back going to rallies. Never saw anyone on a Harley till 76 and it was an old pan head chopper
👍
Roll N Roaster, so many lunches there (cheese fries, yuum).
2701 Emmons Ave my office was there for many years.
We would go to Nathans for lunch & ride the coaster for lunches as well.
Fun times see you at TWT :
holy.... back in warriors home turf! thanx for the ride !
@@transdetendal one of my favorite movies! Thank you for the kind words and knowing the warriers turf! 🙏 😎
@@tta850 hehe and im even european haha
Yea, the 2nd appearance of the main character in the mirror! Wow!))
@@oleksasirotinin1532 haha good catch and thank you! While I feel the main characters are the bikes and cars I work on you have me debating doing an introduction video maybe Chanté and myself conversing… let’s see when I run out of projects, like that ever happens lol
@@tta850
Nice vid. Be sure to check the swing arm bushings for torque as well as the shocks and rear axle. DWobble can start in a lot of different places. Great vid! Be well!
@@JohnStruemph good point, noted thank you! 👍🏻
@@tta850 Another thing to check, especially if the bike has rubber mount engine, is engine mounts, they can and DO very often cause death wobble... Ask me how I know LOL
@@MegaBruceC I can only imagine how you know 😂 So I’m pretty sure this bike has a solid mounted engine but you have me thinking about the Tour Glide engine cause I know that one is rubber mounted 😳
Might wanna look at the neck bearings also as that can cause a wobble too 🧐🐷😎🏍
When you get a new bike from the factory the amount of oil is not guaranteed to be correct lots of factories overfill then use a syringe with a depth setting to remove the oil to leave the correct level as it is much faster than filling with a set amount and checking multiple times.
I like to change the oil in my forks slightly earlier than recommended because I'm a big boy so that shit overheats and goes thin sooner than it usually would for a lighter person and I can really feel the difference between worn out oil and fresh and I know I prefer fresh, so it's often one of the first jobs I do when I get a new (to me) bike.
Edit: sorry got carried away forgot to make my point - you might not have needed to go up to 15w it might just be that the factory 10w had permanently thinned out with use over time and Chante looks petite to me so I would have gone back to factory fresh 10w because 15w is possibly going to over dampen the setup for her weight.
@@IsntThisAStupidName good points I often take new bikes as they are and wait to consume what they came with before changing, but I’m going to have to rethink that maybe.
We shall see what she says worst case I’ve found the job in this machine to be relatively quick to do so I’ll keep in mind fresh 10w may be an option 👍🏻
@@tta850 I wish life was so easy for me but I'm a big fella so stock forks usually dive and bottom out far to easily so I always do a brake full refurb + HH pads and at least front suspension with replacement springs and oil as soon as I get a new bike to make sure it will be able to come to a stop safely.
While I am also heavier I do tend to keep the fork oil at 10w because with springs matched to my weight as much as possible the fork should only move as much as someone who is lighter with lower spring rates matched to their weight thus the dampening should work out about the same as the valving has not changed so for road use the dampening should be about the same. But in cases where I cannot get a fork spring that matches my weight exactly - either because no company makes one with a high enough spring rate or whatever reason - then as I mentioned before the oil wears out much faster I guess because of the excessive dive it means a much greater quantity of oil has to flow.
I enjoy your tinkering/repairing things videos, and hope your injuries are recovering nicely.
Best to use Bel Ray phosphate ester fork oil. It will last you far longer. It is known as 'Skydrol' in the aviation industry and is used in the hydraulic systems in commercial aircraft because it doesn't burn. Just wear gloves when you are going to come in contact with it and don't get it in your eye. If you do get it in your eye, make sure you have some castor oil to wash it out.
It will also increase damping a bit over regular fork oil. It is highly compatible with all synthetic rubbers and will work fine with factory seals.
@@Lurch-Bot I’m gonna look into that, reminds me of when I used to race Turbo Buick powered cars and we used MobilFluid 424 Tractor Fluid in our transmissions (especially if trans brake equipped) for the same reason, the very high burn point. Thank you!
The 10mm has a mind of its own. Always trying to escape one way or another.
@@NoccoVilla 💯
She needs to make sure she has a steering damper installed, and that it's still functioning correctly, they need to be serviced at some point. That should fix her death wobble.
@@SaschaStriegel unfortunately she does not have a steering dampener and I have not been able to find one for a Rebel 300/500 😢 if it continues I may look into fabricating some mounts seems like the only way to get one on there
Wobble is usually a rider induced oscillation. You gotta loosen up on the bars but I suspect, at 80mph, the rider is having trouble staying in the saddle and is compensating by gripping the bars too rigidly. It is tough to stay in a seat like that at high speed on a cruiser. You gotta shift your ass back, lean into the wind, keep your elbows bent and hold the grips loosely.
Also, Bel Ray phosphate ester fluid is the only thing I use in my forks. It lasts a lot longer and doesn't break down under the extreme heat produced by hard riding. If you decide to give it a try, wear gloves and don't get it in your eyes. It is very painful. Castor oil is the antidote. Make sure to keep some on hand just in case.
It is much easier to get your oil even if you fully disassemble and clean the fork. When it is clean, you just measure out the specified amount and pour it in. Practically impossible to screw it up.
But what the fu*k do I know?
@@Lurch-Bot exactly wtf do I know 🤣 That honestly had me laughing my ass off! I will share your comment with Chanté and see if she can pay a little more attention to what she’s doing when it happens. Thank you!
like the way you have the stands modified. Will dig out a set of old stands I haven't used for years and make a few mods to them .
i own a '97 rebel 125, i love it
I definitely think you and Chante should do an introduction video. But what the f**k do I know? 😂
@@SteeringSteel 😂
Keep wrenching! Right on!
Those beautiful shoes ❤❤😂😂
@@PHATJOECUSTOMS 😝
💫💫💫 She is hilarious ! 💫💫💫
cool mechanic skills, cool wife , cool garage of cars and bikes bro , legend)
@@LilGROMIT 🙏
Try Racetech springs if Ohlins are no go. Check warped wheel
@@user-tu4lf6dm6s thanks will look into them, I know they popped up as a possible option for the Tour Glide
that gtr is so cool :D
@@tab5297 🙏👏
Forking hell the misses will be happy 😎
@@Patchesrepairshop 🤞 🙏 😬
Hey mate, it's a common problem with the rebels. They say to change the front tyre from stock. Also, be careful with phone mounts. I know that sounds crazy, but they say that gives the rebels the shakes. See the link below mate 👍 Get that the vid is for an 1100, but it's common across all the lines.
th-cam.com/video/ThoLkjvmJw0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0dfOB1q0KbWJ5z8z
@@Lord_Ranon original tires wore pretty quick and have been replaced with American Elites but thank you for pointing out the phone mount, hadn’t really given it too much thought. It sounds crazy but also makes some sense too! I gotta see if I can get it over behind the small fairing and out of the wind 👍🏻
I've been riding for over 50 years and experienced more trauma and mental scarring from The Cyclone than all of my motorcycle crashes combined 😬
@@kurtfoulke5130 💯 🤣
Cuzzy this was a long one, but still a great video 😊
@@Touring2twowheels718 😎
UK I like the hagon suspension company for progressive spring kits, think I paid £130 ISH for springs and oil but not sure how they work for USA delivery unless they have a company there, stiffened up and improved my steering and breaking brilliantly, I'd research more as there may be a better set up closer to home for you, put them on two of my xjr1300 and a ninja 600 when I had them, I was impressed, there's also a company called hyperpro shocks do the same
@@davidmurray9193 thanks for the info I will look into them, yeah I’m learning that we each have our issues getting parts something easy for me to get might be harder for you or vice versa… you’d think in this day and age it would be easier 🤦🏻♂️
@@tta850 You would think that but some bike companies love it when you struggle, I'm dreading having to change my battery on my street bob when I have too, big strip down just to get to battery 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Unless she's railing on the bike like being at a track day these bikes should not do this from the factory. It has to be something mechanically wrong, Bad or unbalanced tires, bad wheel bearings, steering head bolt isn't torqued to specs, bad race bearings, etc. I think you're just putting a Band-Aid on the problem unfortunately. If it's still under warranty I'd advise her to bring it back to the dealer and let them spend the money/time diagnosing the problem
@@kugangles9860 normally I would agree, but with so many other people I’ve spoken to both online and in person complaining about the same feeling of instability over rough surfaces makes me think Honda just skimped on parts for cost savings. Just like how the original chain didn’t make 10k miles and original tires were toast at 8k 🤷🏻♂️
Your tour glide probably 50 hp
@@E-Glide exactly 👍🏻
Ford, Harley, now Honda! 😵 Try a steering stabilizer.
@@chrisparker9886 if only they made it for the Rebel (and they should!) If you know a company that makes a kit for it let me know and I’ll try it out 👍🏻
@@tta850 Look at the steering dampeners at Stadium Yamaha. Amazon has kits too.
Bro, buy an actual motorcycle jack. Well worth the small investment ($100-$150), especially with as much as you do!
@@BT2SS you are probably right, but I’m thick headed and stubborn 😂 maybe I’ll treat myself as winter sets in and more projects get done on the Harley’s cause I think that’s where it will pay for itself 🤔
Put away the Faringe its katastrofal for the bike
Curse of the 10mm sockets you can have twenty at the start and lucky to have one at the end of the job 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
@@davidmurray9193 😂😂😂😂😂
Oh I see why you do TH-cam- so when you talk to yourself while wrenching people won’t think you’re crazy!
@@nealart haha I hadn’t thought of it that way! Though I think some people still think I’m crazy 🤪 😂