Water Powered Cutting Torch
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 เม.ย. 2019
- In this video, I explore the process of making a cutting torch that runs on the electrolysis of water. A challenging project for sure, let me know what you think!
Music by Otis McDonald - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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I would recommend using graphite for your anode as it reacts less with the oxygen. You can get some graphite rods from carbon-zinc batteries
or a number 2 pencil. I did that in grade school so that would be pretty easy.
Graphite rods are not that good becose they degrade and a pencil head is even worse because it will break of easily
20 bucks at a welding supply shop will get you a box of copper coated graphite electrodes 3/8 diameter.
use lead either tin metal instead of graphite or any other type of material
Graphite comes in many different densities, and the flashlight rods are very low quality. You might want to get a copper clad welding rod and peel of the copper. A welding supply shop would likely just give you one of you ask nicely
Apologies for the delayed upload, this project was a bit more intensive than I first thought! I'll try to fix the issues I ran into and post a follow-up video showing me using the torch some more. 🙂
Don't apologise, I would rather you take your time and not blow yourself up. Great content. Keep it up.
I would love to see a bit of laser stuff.
It really isn’t that hard and expensive to get a burning laser running.
Maybe DVD laser diode ?:)
Can u explain how and what components u use to control pressure of gas?
Try using sodium carbonated for your electrolyte. Why did you choose potassium? Sorry, I had to edit my first suggestion was incorrect my memory failed me.
You mentioned in your video about corrosion on the metal plates. there's an alternative. Use graphite plates in the dry cell configuration it's more efficient
I so love watching your videos man !
I love that you machined the piece of Delrin, but attached the flashback arrestor with zip ties :)
You're amazing man, i cant wait till this channel blows up
I like your design appearance methods they come out very appealing.
Great work! I have built a few of these things with all different types of materials. You want keep your electric connections out of your electrolyte tanks. It's most likely the copper or solder that's giving you the discoloration. Weld a tab of stainless that extends through the top and seal around it, connect power there.
I'm also unsure of your electrolyte choice. I have seen sodium hydroxide used successfully for clear results, however potassium hydroxide is new to me here. Stainless steel with 4 teaspoons of sodium hydroxide per 1600ml of distilled water will yield the results you want. Keep all other metals out of the tanks.
Underrated channel
Wow you really need more videos they are awesome!
Love it. You could always do your own plating
great content, great quality,
You nailed it.
Did you tap water or distilled water? Tap will muck things up. Gotta use distilled.
Also have you calculated the maximum amperage for your system? If pump too many amps on your 316L plates you will ruin them.
I’ve built my own. Yours is a wet cell, mine is a dry cell but the principle remains. Mine is rated for a maximum of 32 amps. If I exceed that it will cause the chromium to dissociate from the steel and cause that nasty chromium oxide gas. This naturally is the cause of the corrosion of the plates. Also it dilutes your torch flame with it, making it not burn pure hydroxy.
Calculate the proper amps. Don’t exceed it. If you need more output....add more stacks or make bigger plates. Do it right and the 316L will last a very long time.
Love the build quality btw.
Cheers
Sand, File, or Etch plates before use , it will clean off any protective coatings and give you more surface contact on the plates.
Also bind the loose ends and stabilize the "fins at bottom also might try separating the positive and negative side which will allow positive to draw negative and negative to draw positive ions ... One side will produce hydrogen and the other oxygen which is breathable.
Welding with hho will also teach you that whatever the fuel mixture, it always reverts to being water!
Good stuff so far man! I've dealt with titanium enough to know that it's a bad electrode for electrolysis, as you've already figured out. It does basically nothing but create an unnatural oxide layer (as titanium doesn't naturally oxidize) and "anodizes" the metal surface. (Definitely a good project for another time though.) I second the graphite electrodes. Although you might want to try something like carbon fibers or something that won't cause a ton of resistance. Maybe graphene plates??? Another material to try is tungsten. You really want to find something that won't react or give way much to the charged electrolytic fluid. You could also try a conductive ceramic, or bits of precious metal coated mesh or honeycomb like from a catalytic converter.
titanium wont rust or create oxide layer in slat water does it? btw i also tought about using tungsten rods,good thinking you are the first one i see to mention this,i wanted to keep it a secret till i made one myself,,but i would think a porous like mesh of carbon would be perfect ,perhaps those come in graphene? or graphite mesh
tungsten will be great
Your channel is awesome! keep up your good work
I am very much thankful to you sir for showing love and support on my comment on your previous post.....
and this video is just awesome and full of science .
Thank you again and love from india
keep up the good work!!
Could you make a Tutorial about the electrical component of this burner?
what a fantastic design
These videos are amazing
Ive only slightly played around with HHO but ive found that if the stainless steel youre using is magnetic then it will corrode fast but if its non magnetic itll last quite a while.
I've use the square stainless pans from restaurants and had great success. I also lucked into an 8ft by 4ft by 1/16inch thick stainless steel table top that works really well.
I prefer finding the expensive parts of projects for free because free is the best price when experimenting.
I think your tech alone sets you apart but your video editing is way better done then most other “DIY’ish” creators Ives seen keep it up
That editing complexity is same or greater than engineering complexity of his projects.
Seriously this guy is a step above the rest
try the more efficient and powerful dry cell not wet cell
As long as he stops that music…
Dude I have been waiting for this video for so so long ! Its so cool :D haha I am a blacsmith/ knifemaker so I cant help you with this chemical kind of stuff, but I can give you a thumb up !! Kepp on
I started making knife and was kinda curious about building a new forge with this kind of set up. You think it's do-able?
i was going to suggest graphite also .. even graphite foil. ive made a mini HHO with Stainless Razor blades spaced about 1/16" apart and had about 12 total alternating the polarity at each plate. I submerged the blades in a 2oz plastic container with a press on lid .. and made HHO gas with 0 catalyst .. Of course i made hho much quicker after adding catalyst .. I used baking soda. . i really liked the PWM control you implemented. (the tupperware style container added a bit of safety to my device . i had a few hho explosions which only resulted in the lid popping off and startling me.. but no damage to me or the hho device,,, )
Well you sure are making a party of it.
Great video. Editing and design of the control box was top notch. Would love to see a follow up
Just curious and wonder what would happen if you could create a much smaller tank that is just 100% water and plates, with a precise gap between each plate to allow as thin a layer of water through as possible. If you were to make the parts uniform and only create an outlet where the gas can escape that does not go through the electrode then I'd imagine you could eliminate the corrosion you were getting seeming to be from air in the tank. Where it met the water looked the worst, gave me that theory.
Good luck, look forward to seeing any developments you make.
Blacken the titanium annod (sandblast, heat treat to 1700 f and quench in canola or similar oil) i found after annodizing parts i make that the blackend ti keeps producing hho while non ht sections just annodize to color and create an oxide layer stopping production of hho . Just a thought i have been thinking about. I made a hho torch several years back and corosion of annods was a big problem even with 316 ss also used an old mig welder as a power supply. Great video and build
I can not believe you have so few subscribers man. this videos are so entertaining. the project ideas are sick. and the editing is rlly rlly quality. these things must take you ages to put together this smoothly.
It’s that musi…Noise.. It sadly renders this Completely unwatchable end to end..
very well edited
I use carbon rods and sodium carbonate, running 12 volts at 2-3 amps. Ddnt have a temp sensor handy but unlike 'copper,stainless,and iron' that I tried they all produced alot of waste heat. The carbon stayed cool to the touch after 30 min of continuous running.
I love you videos !!!!!
Ur channel is amazing ur gonna do big In TH-cam
Your problem can be solved if you use teflon. Teflon is almost inert as long as it's surface temperature is less than 488 kelvin. But considering the constant flow of current...it might not be useful.
The best solution would be to use flourine-passivated nickel plates.
Now if you let some flourine react with a nickel plate, it will form a tremendously corossion resistant layer on the nickel.
This is an extremely good project.
I feel you on the matter of recharging your welding gas every now and then. Considering the reaction taking place, after some time, your water cylinder would run out of H+ ions to convert. So you'll still have to recharge it by refilling the water cylinder. This is a cost effective solution,plus it is less frustrating than having to change the fuel cans repeatedly.
May I ask the most efficient wattage (volts x amps) you achieved to produce a flame? Many thanks :)
.5 amps 500-600 v, but you have to build a better cell, not split the gases. The more amps you dump in the more your plates get destroyed, the hotter the water gets. It's super inefficient and NOT BROWNS GAS.
People make this mistake all the time HHO is not browns gas. Browns Gas burns at 200-600c hho burns at several thousand. Brown's gas can melt titanium and steel together and turn a brick in slag and sand into glass.
I encourage you too look into Exotic Vacuum Objects and Moray B King and New energy Conference Amsterdam.
Would a 2007 Toyota Prius catalyst converter be a good use for as a plate ? As you could probably pick one up from a salvage yard/scrap yard or garage. They contain platinum
You seem like you will be a big channel one day. Glad I could be here @5000 subs
The king of random has done a video about electrolysis, he actually took the stainless pieces and grinded them in 45 degrees, and again in 90 degrees, so as to get the most surface area possible, little known fact is that all stainless pieces come with a veeeeery very thin of coating (oil coating mostly) in order to keep them shining and clean, maybe the coating is what messes your whole rig! pretty interesting video! keep up the good work mate! you're onto something big there i can tell!
Platinum! Always
Nickel works well (many people using nickel wool), and the potassium hydroxide actually becomes protective. The electrolyte still gets mucky over time, but it cleans up easily. Graphite works without corrosion, but the high internal resistance limits your gas generation. Your electrodes are also too far apart. It is astounding the efficiency boost you will get when they are in close proximity. Even just separated by a membrane...
When you use that method to separate water atoms, it’s produce brown gas instead of 2H and 1O, and brown gas can produce mxm heat at 6,000°c
Would gold be a good alternative to platinum for this application? It is usually a bit cheaper, and you probably won't have too much difficulty selling the excess material at a reasonable price.
Wow, beautifully made video. This is orders of magnitude beyond typical videos of this sort.
If you spent more time describing the design that would be great.
Might be interesting to try pure nickel plates, or nickel-plated stainless steel. Beware of sketchy chinese pure nickel though - i've bought some once and it was definitely not pure (as indicated by precise conductivity test).
Electroplate the plates in nickel and then a thick layer of silver. Keep the silver solution to use as electrolyte and periodically switch the polarity on the electrodes so they will, more or less, keep their layer of silver plating on them and stay very conductive. There's tons of cheap silver-plated flatware in thrift stores that no one wants.
How do the welds hold up? I know shielding gas is normally used, does the water contaminate the weld?
you are great
I love your British accent.
You should look at dry cells, much higher efficiency and production rate, I’ve recently built one to power a mini knife forge!!
A guy on here with a channel called camelloops could have helped you to get the most from a wet cell but I believe he was recently killed in the last fires to cross California.
There's another chap on here with a channel called Tin Man Power, he can also help you to get the most from a wet cell.
You can achieve great water cavitation at a low amperage, what's most important in my understanding is to use a gated pulse width modulation of around twelve pulses per second and tune for the best results.
Hope that's useful :)
Well, this answers the question of if I can make a proper HHO forge, and it looks like I can.
@@HealthThroughNutrition Lol killed in a fire. Be careful; you aren't following the most approved activities. Thank you for your service to humanity.
Great video, could we know more about, surface area of plates, voltage, amps or % of amps,
and all the tech details so we can make one. Thanks again.
The best result i ever had as kid, was stainless steel (in my case a bunch of tablespoon, good quality one) for both electrod, and caustic soda (NaOH) with demineralized water as electrolite. among all combination of object and substance found at my grand master hous this one work the best and the spoon are still good and in use.
A small zinc plat can be added to your HH0 cell to preserve the plates but it will need to be replaced once in a while.
What about Tungsten? Can you use that? I knowthats what my tig welding electrodes are made of and they are pretty durable. Not sure how they would hold up to your application..
Tungsten is primarily used for its high melting point, and generally isn't that conductive or corrosion resistant.
Wondering if you made any changes and how it turned out? Before I offer my humble opinions on the problems, I gotta say that's a very cool looking project. Were you going for 1800's science look? That's the vibe I get. Love it.
Now, I would agree with some of the others. Your steel might be 400 series stainless and not 300 series. 316 is probably at the right price point vs. corrosion resistance. And yes, distilled water is a must. Chlorine isn't something you want because it creates highly toxic gas, even though that can be rectified by leaving it sit open for a day or so. But there are plenty of other minerals and chemicals in tap H2O, such as calcium, magnesium, sediments, possibly fluoride from fluoridation. Pure water and potassium hydroxide are all that should be in there.
Next, plate spacing and neutral plate arrangement are crucial to maximize efficiency of voltage and amps flow over the plates. I believe 3mm is the sweet spot, as per a US Energy Dept study found. The cell needs designed to "use" up the voltage, so each plate "sees" around 2 volts. Example: 12v supply = 7 plates x 2v drop between each pair. Only the two outer plates are connected to the supply. Only the amps should be changed to vary gas production and there is a maximum based on plate area before heat and degradation is sped up exponentially. Voltage needs to remain constant or you will have efficiency losses, possibly arcing, and straining your power supply: increasing the chances of problems, especially deterioration of the plates and mucky electrolyte.
Here is a good site for research: www.hho4free.com/amperage_understanding.html
Sorry it was so long, and I hope it helps others build efficient and successful hho projects.
Thank you for the long and thoughtful reply! I think I may have been ripped off with the stainless I bought. I’ll try out distilled water. I have each plate at 2V.
Iron plates with sodium hydroxyde worked great for me. The corrosion was minimal and the hho generator kept really reliable performances over time. I don't think you should use alloys (like stainless steel) cuz they possess multiple metals and increase your chances of getting one element that corrodes real bad.
Good advice. Steel is cheap, safe and easily replaced. In fact steel which was heat treated for tools machinery works well. Second hand parts cost less.
You need tons of current as opposed to voltage so I'd go for a step-down transformer and use graphite instead of steel. Increase the surface area(by a lot) for both cathode and anode, adjust your circuit to have heavy-duty parts. Reduce the distance between cathode and anode but be careful not to have them too close because it can create tons of heat. Try using baking soda instead of NaOH and make sure your solution is saturated enough.
Where did u learn to do this stuff? I always wanted to do this kind of stuff but idk where to start
Brett, the best thing to do (without going for formal education) is just start tearing things down, studying lay out and connections and research what you find, then build small and work up from the. For this specific project, there is a link in my comment to Will that has great info about hho. And there are some very good, free electronics tutorial sites on the web to learn about components.
But I'll say it again, the best way is to just tear down and build. 😁
Start with this video. I just got my first draft completed and it's working fine. Making a second draft and will be uploading it on my channel shortly. Maybe we can all put our heads together and get a car running. I'll be running my 4 wheeler off it soon as the second version is done.
Dang, this video is too short! I'd love to see more about how and why you chose to engineer the various components -- especially how you've plumbed the water and gas lines. May I ask what the 3rd (middle) water chamber is for? Wouldn't you capture the same amount of gas with just the two larger water vessels? Also I was wondering if there i s any risk of electrical shock from the copper tubes? Thanks!!
ok to substitute stsinless electrodes with inconel?
For cathode you can use pretty much anything but for anode I suggest either platinum coated titanium electrodes or MMO electrodes which you can find pretty cheap on eBay.
One last thing stick with the stainless steel that you were using, it's the BEST TO USE SO FAR.
I use Iron for cathode and anode , their cheap ,work well and not horribly toxic .
I also use sodium carbonate (washing soda) as the electrolyte , again cheap and not toxic (dont use salt i see alot of idiots post that, it makes chlorine gas ).
Pretty rig you made tho ill give you that much, i hope you got it goin good by now .
Seems like maybe the electrical connections you have from the wires to the electrodes could be corroded? Those none stainless wires are ideally not in the water. Nice setup, whats the retro power supply?
graphite electrodes would be best choice, we use them in most of our labs because they are the least reactive and cheap to replace
A hard-drive's platter plating could be about 40-50% platinum, the rest cobolt and chromium if that is a useful anode?
Have u tryed alumi um plates scratch em up and make sure u have the right Volt wat .
How’d you connect the tanks/electrolyte?
Azideia lek, o cara ta fazendo um sistema de ionização, noza zinhora kkkkkk
304l and 316l are plates to use for generator, then you need to annealing and condition them to increase conductivity.
You can just sand in a cross hatch pattern (good) or bead blast (best) them. And make sure to clean them with acetone or denatured alcohol.
I think the corrosion of the steel electrodes is because of the general corrosive nature of bases, when Electricity isn't connected to the cell. Maybe putting the KOH-solution in another container and cleaning the electrodes when the thing goes idle?
did you check aliexpress?
they sell something like that for acrylic polishing at around 200-500 bucks, further up you get things that are actually sold as welders
nice 3th video ( like the 2 other)
Thank you
Nice channel
Aluminum plates can be a cheap fix don’t know if you’d have to make it larger to produce more looking for feedback on some of this I’m still working out what I’m doing wrong with mine
Try using nickel plates, not that expensive and works better than stainless. You can use the titanium plate on the negative side, but not the positive because the positive form titanium dioxide coating that is a good insulator.
I have found that 316L stainless steel for the positive plate and titanium for the negative plate works best for me. Nickel can be used on both plates successfully.
You shoud use gold as plates :) a small layer whoud be enough. It's the best for this application.
What about palladium coated discs out of a hard drive? Or graphite sheets
Did you use distilled water instead of tap might be the isue with corrosion as well
Some automotive catalytic converters contain platinum coated components, it could be possible to rob some inexpensively out of a catalytic converter to use instead?
Nice work! We have a hydrogen generator in the lab I work in that uses the same principle. Using super pure water is a must for it otherwise the membrane that separates H2 from O won't last long. Since your interested in both H2 and O the deionized water may not be necessary but I thought it could also maybe produce a cleaner reaction... just a guess. The manual also just said it used a "special metal catalyst". Was hoping to find out the type of metal but no luck!
Interesting! I have a feeling that the catalyst would be either platinum or palladium, those metals are commonly used in hydrogen fuel cells and reactions of that sort.
Pd-coated stainless electrodes and ultrasonic cavitation ur production will be off the charts (lower amps higher voltage pulsed at 2.5mhz-5mhz) look at us patents for hho electrolysis home use high amperage all feature cavitation and high voltage. Best luck
316 has too much iron, you can try passivation to remove some of the surface iron or you can use something like graphite like another viewer suggested. I did a project similar to this in high school and the plates were a nightmare.
Can it burn through metal, because you only showed wood in the video, and it didn't seem to go all the way through so I'm just curious
Lasse Nørbjerg the flame isn’t that big, so for small stuff (thin plate, jewellery etc) it can do metal no problem. For larger projects though I’d stick with the bottled gas torch as it has a much bigger flame.
Underrated channel! Amazing work! My only recommendation would be to use a little less music and just incorporate some of the natural sounds of your work. Other than that it’s great!!!
Can you do a video of the components and wiring on the power box?
How are you preventing flashback?
love the music there are so many fun tunes in this video . oh and love the project i have wanted too build one for years now.
Any schematic? Or, anything to do with the actual electronics? Would be really helpful
Use 304 stainless 316l has iron and carbon a small amount thats why your having that issue i hope it fixes the problem i like that torch
Is lead good to use??
First video = subscribed.
Really nice build. The use of timber gives it a lot of class - in my humble opinion..
Little bit more detail on other materials you’ve used would be cool…
I have experimented with it and first tried it using salt as an electrolyte, the plates corroded very quickly and i tried it using normal baking soda and stainless steel, it doesn’t corrode (:
I use stainless steal in all of mine it corodes prity fast but I don't use plates I use windings any wase I suggest platinum or stainless steel type 316L
gold foil is not very expensive, would that work?
First time ive watched one of your videos.
Man YOU ARE AWESOME!!
Educational, Awesome Music, and the video editing and effects are Bad ass!!
You sir are the man👍🏻😎👌
Keep em coming
Very good l love yuo much
Dank pods trying to burn out my headphones
why didn't you face any flash back, ending up blast coz hydrogen and oxygen are mixed together, or what flash back arrestor were you using ?
I think you may have used normal tap water that may have introduced a lot of unwanted gasses like chlorine or other gasses because of the salt content. As we all know chlorine is corrosive.
I think using distilled water will help.
You could try a material that forms a nanometre thick oxide like chromium plated metals, but I'm not an electrochemist
Another option could be a form of inconel but this is likely going to start getting expensive
I'm not sure if I missed it in the video, and I know this is a few years late, but make sure to include a flashback arrestor, given oxyhydrogen's intrinsic propensity for explosion
A simple one can be fashioned by passing the gas via a tube down into a sealed bottle filled halfway with water, such that the oxyhydrogen gas bubbles through and up the water, out into the space above, with a second tube attached through the cap but not under the water to direct the output gas. It can also help scrub the output gas of any minor contamination, not that that is very likely to be a concern.
The stell type is 316L , L letter made the difference in chromium composition and is not corosive under KOH or NaOH