Thank you so much for these videos! The best resource I have found so far online for this process. Gonna order some new springs for mine and use these vids :)
I just done my fork service today, thanks to your video! btw, i forgot whether i had put the washer (03:28) in the right direction....i think i have put the flat side towards the top, and the round side towards to seal......would it be a problem?
boblai0405 i dont have a definitive answer for you there. On one hand theres gotta be a reason why the manufacturer put that detail on there (a sharp side/rounded side) and assembled it a certain way. But having said that, if your forks went back together and arent binding or leaking, i wouldnt lose any sleep over it 😉
Is there any reason why you did not fully compress the damper rod after installing the compression stack at 9:18? Every other USD fork servicing video/tutorial that I have seen tells you to fully compress the damper rod so that the excess oil is purged from the chamber (it drains through the holes near the top of the damper assembly).
Lukas Kriaučiūnas hhmm, i cant tell you the specific reason why its done that way but thats how it was taught to me, so i stick with that process. Probably a leftover habit of being careful not to fully compress it when the compression stack is not screwed down yet (coz if the compression stack keeps the oil from shooting out the top if you fully compress the damper rod) The damper rod will not travel to fully compressed with the spring stack and fork lower assembled on it anyway 😉
btw where did you get that slotted metal to hold the jamb nut? or what is it called? spent sooooo much effort to hold the nut with my friend by hands lol was pain in the ass
boblai0405 glad the vid was helpful. The slotted tool to hold down the fork bottom against the jamb nut is just something you can make yourself out of any thin scrap metal. And yes, it makes the job a whole lot easier 😉
@@PAbrera1 Thanks man! will look around to see if i can make one for next service lol btw i have left another comment below, much appreciate if you can answer that too. Thanks a lot!
Cant tell you 100% without the new fork in front of me but yes, in my understanding, apart from bodywork color these bikes have remained virtually unchanged in over 20 years 😅
These 2 videos have helped me so much. Thank you! (nice blooper btw lol)
Thanks a ton for your videos! You're a great mechanic, very clean and methodical.
Old videos but thanks for watching 😉👍🏽
Thanks man!! Best video ive seen yet about drz!
Thank you so much for these videos! The best resource I have found so far online for this process. Gonna order some new springs for mine and use these vids :)
Very old video. Glad its still helpful nowadays 😉👍🏽
Great to see you sir here on TH-cam! Very informative, hope to see more! Apir PapZ! 👊 RS safe always!
Lost Rider PH thanks for coming aboard 😉👍🏽
@@PAbrera1 Orayt! 🤘 Thanks sir!
Just finished assembly of my SM forks, great & informative video. :) Thanks!
Žygimantas Ančerys thanks for watching and sharing a comment
Great vid!
When you assemble the fork with the impact tool, how many pound ft of torque do you target?
I cant find the exact listings.
NEW SUBSCRIBER 🙋🏽♂️
Welcome aboard, russel! Thanks for subscribing. Hope you learned something new 😉
I just done my fork service today, thanks to your video!
btw, i forgot whether i had put the washer (03:28) in the right direction....i think i have put the flat side towards the top, and the round side towards to seal......would it be a problem?
boblai0405 i dont have a definitive answer for you there. On one hand theres gotta be a reason why the manufacturer put that detail on there (a sharp side/rounded side) and assembled it a certain way. But having said that, if your forks went back together and arent binding or leaking, i wouldnt lose any sleep over it 😉
Is there any reason why you did not fully compress the damper rod after installing the compression stack at 9:18? Every other USD fork servicing video/tutorial that I have seen tells you to fully compress the damper rod so that the excess oil is purged from the chamber (it drains through the holes near the top of the damper assembly).
Lukas Kriaučiūnas hhmm, i cant tell you the specific reason why its done that way but thats how it was taught to me, so i stick with that process. Probably a leftover habit of being careful not to fully compress it when the compression stack is not screwed down yet (coz if the compression stack keeps the oil from shooting out the top if you fully compress the damper rod) The damper rod will not travel to fully compressed with the spring stack and fork lower assembled on it anyway 😉
What seals and bushing kit did you use?
rob142sti thanks for tuning in. Did this a while back, if i remember right, i used the all balls kit 😉.
btw where did you get that slotted metal to hold the jamb nut? or what is it called? spent sooooo much effort to hold the nut with my friend by hands lol was pain in the ass
boblai0405 glad the vid was helpful. The slotted tool to hold down the fork bottom against the jamb nut is just something you can make yourself out of any thin scrap metal. And yes, it makes the job a whole lot easier 😉
@@PAbrera1 Thanks man! will look around to see if i can make one for next service lol btw i have left another comment below, much appreciate if you can answer that too. Thanks a lot!
Hi did you powder coat the forks or spray paint? Regular spray paint?
Fine sanded the old annodizing then had it Powder coated. Paint may be a bit fragile. Buffing the aluminum to a shine Wouldv been my other option.
@@PAbrera1 awesome thanks for the info!
I might sound ignorant, knowing that all drz400sm are the same. But I want to be sure about it. those this apply for a 2022 model ?.
Cant tell you 100% without the new fork in front of me but yes, in my understanding, apart from bodywork color these bikes have remained virtually unchanged in over 20 years 😅