pressure over area for initial shim deflection (pop off pressure) this is the same for how you stack your stack, cone valve gives more control over the metering of oil over pistons compared to having to open it up and alter the stack on std shocks
Daaaang! This is definitely not an easy task bro. Then your like “if the measurements off, just take it apart to adjust” lmfao!😂 Yea, just take it back apart, no biggie lol. I’ll be attempting this when I get my gold valves, thanks for the very thorough tutorial man 🤘🏼
"cc" as a unit equals to millilitre but nobody in metric system uses this unit for fluids :D only for engine displacement. but you know the topic is hard when even US guys switch to metric units and video length is 38min. nice video. thanks
WP XACT air forks don't seem to follow any of these guides very well. Different check springs, float stack adjustment, etc. Race Tech instructions are out of date, i.e. now WP does do peening on the nut. Hopefully the performance was worth the two endless days of hassle 🤷♂
On closed chamber forks where all dampening is done inside the closed chamber, how critical is the lubrication fluid in the outer chamber. There are no valves or pistons in the outer chamber, does it matter?
Anyone doing this please put some electrical or painters tape over threads on the rod before pushing it out, otherwise you are going to learn the hard way
forgive me if this is a dumb question, but why was the rebound jam nut on tight on the rod? once the rebound nut is removed, the jam nut should be loose and no need for the rebound cartridge holder 8:10
Done all of this and the rebound is so soft with zero adjustments… I can just feel it come out all the way in the stroke of the fork. So I’m having to tear it apart and reshim I guess and bleed it and add more fork oil. There is no way I can ride this bike anymore because I don’t trust it. It’s bad. I was successful with the compression it feels good compressing but dampening/rebound sucks.
So I'm getting ready to order one of these kits for my KTM300 and noticed you installed the pre-load washers at the bottom of your springs. When I took my forks apart, the pre-load washers (6mm of them) were on top of the springs right up against the spring seat. Is this wrong? Is it critical where the washers go or were mine flat out installed wrong? Thanks for any reply.
In my experience these sucked. Did not work for east coast riding. Had to have a tuner revalve them after install. Spent around $1300. My current bikes $300 local revalve is far better
All in how it's valved, these are only as good as who's installing it. Race Tech did the first setup, you could of sent them back or had your local guy take care of it and they would cover the costs.
What a bummer! Hmm... the Race Tech Type 3 Fork Kits that we are showing are only $190-$310 as of now. If you type in the correct info for skill, weight, type of riding, etc., the DVS sheet should get you really close, and a big improvement over the stock setup. It really is all about the stack, if it's set up for a motocross "A" rider but used for woods riding, it will obviously be terrible. Correct setup is key. -Charles
Rocky Mountain ATV MC I bought kits for forks and shock and all the extras too. I believe springs too. Followed the sheet too. They sucked. Went to local tuner $300 later much better He said valving recommendations way off. Charts were based on testing on the west coast. Since then I brought my new bike there too. $300 and change. No extra gimmicks or charges and it works awesome
@@matt2437 like I said, the kit is only as good as who installs it. You installed it from what I gather from your comments. Race Tech is used by top pro riders all around the world. Also to claim they didn't work for East Coast riding, couldn't be anymore vague. You're not making your argument, you're proving my original statement.
To be honest just go to a local Professional suspension shop!! Support local! RT is over rated and the “sell out” of the industry.. In 99% of the application you are just a “number” and get a generic set up.. where local can work with your needs, and the gold valves just flow more fluid allowing RT to use there own proprietary settings.. in most Application stock pistons are just as good if not better. And a local shop can get you dialed for less the price.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
I just finished putting gold valves in my 2021 husqvarna tc 125 it's amazing. At 11:25 I actually had to file it down on my wp xact forks.
Best video on Gold Valves I’ve found
Glad you think so!
pressure over area for initial shim deflection (pop off pressure) this is the same for how you stack your stack, cone valve gives more control over the metering of oil over pistons compared to having to open it up and alter the stack on std shocks
Daaaang! This is definitely not an easy task bro.
Then your like “if the measurements off, just take it apart to adjust” lmfao!😂
Yea, just take it back apart, no biggie lol.
I’ll be attempting this when I get my gold valves, thanks for the very thorough tutorial man 🤘🏼
You got it!
@@rmatvmc we’ll see lol 😂
You're gonna want the proper tools to do this job. Get the soft jaws and a vice to hold the rod.. It'll make it a lot less stressful.
@@gedeondumesyeux2259race techs website has a list of special tools for sale for this job
Is that extra washer you add just below the nut a typical galvanized washer one can buy in a home depot?
I just finished installing the Gold Valves in my YZ450f. Thanks for the video, it was VERY helpful!!!
Is it worth putting them on for enduro and country cross?
This video helped me SO MUCH!!!! THANK YOU!!!!!! Very well done and explained EVERYTHING PERFECTLY. 👍👍👍👍👍
"cc" as a unit equals to millilitre but nobody in metric system uses this unit for fluids :D
only for engine displacement.
but you know the topic is hard when even US guys switch to metric units and video length is 38min.
nice video. thanks
my friend, your job, i like see , you working, good job, perfect, service suspension amazing. big hug brazil. i am mechanic motorcicle in Brazil.
WP XACT air forks don't seem to follow any of these guides very well. Different check springs, float stack adjustment, etc. Race Tech instructions are out of date, i.e. now WP does do peening on the nut. Hopefully the performance was worth the two endless days of hassle 🤷♂
Is this process the same for WP open chamber forks?...they seem different to this fork ie the other way round...🤔...?
On closed chamber forks where all dampening is done inside the closed chamber, how critical is the lubrication fluid in the outer chamber. There are no valves or pistons in the outer chamber, does it matter?
Racetech doesn't list replacement goldvalve piston bands where do you get those at?
I have 13mm of spring pre load if I remove spacers I can achieve another 5mm race tech recommended 5 so not sure where to achieve the other 3mm
Anyone doing this please put some electrical or painters tape over threads on the rod before pushing it out, otherwise you are going to learn the hard way
Do you have a video for installing gold valves on SFF air forks? Like ones that come on the 2017 Honda crf250r?
Great video and yea I have installed Race Tech on my own bike and a friends bike and this really made a big difference for us!
forgive me if this is a dumb question, but why was the rebound jam nut on tight on the rod? once the rebound nut is removed, the jam nut should be loose and no need for the rebound cartridge holder 8:10
Done all of this and the rebound is so soft with zero adjustments… I can just feel it come out all the way in the stroke of the fork. So I’m having to tear it apart and reshim I guess and bleed it and add more fork oil. There is no way I can ride this bike anymore because I don’t trust it. It’s bad. I was successful with the compression it feels good compressing but dampening/rebound sucks.
Chase getting them gold valves I see you dawg lol
Does the midvalve piston have a teflon outside coating on the sliding surface ? and do these ever need replacement to maintain performance?
stock pistons have non replacable bushes. gold valves have replaceable ones
Anyone doing this please put some electrical or painters tape over threads on the rod.
ottima spiegazione grazie🤩
Great video, but it does seem like a lot could go wrong.
Haha yeah, I get what you mean. It's a lot of work, but if you just go step by step and take your time, it's not that bad. -Charles
So I'm getting ready to order one of these kits for my KTM300 and noticed you installed the pre-load washers at the bottom of your springs. When I took my forks apart, the pre-load washers (6mm of them) were on top of the springs right up against the spring seat. Is this wrong? Is it critical where the washers go or were mine flat out installed wrong? Thanks for any reply.
That should be the right spots on those forks. Let me know what year and I can try to verify that for you. Is it the XC or XC-W? -Charles
@@rmatvmc Sorry for the delay. Mine is a 2013 XC. Thank you.
It’s correct
“If you can replace your fork seals you can install these” 🤣 errrrr no this looks like a huge pain in the ass
In my experience these sucked. Did not work for east coast riding. Had to have a tuner revalve them after install. Spent around $1300. My current bikes $300 local revalve is far better
All in how it's valved, these are only as good as who's installing it. Race Tech did the first setup, you could of sent them back or had your local guy take care of it and they would cover the costs.
Sounds like whoever put them in at first didn’t know what they were doing. It’s all how it’s valved like the previous comment said
What a bummer! Hmm... the Race Tech Type 3 Fork Kits that we are showing are only $190-$310 as of now. If you type in the correct info for skill, weight, type of riding, etc., the DVS sheet should get you really close, and a big improvement over the stock setup. It really is all about the stack, if it's set up for a motocross "A" rider but used for woods riding, it will obviously be terrible. Correct setup is key. -Charles
Rocky Mountain ATV MC I bought kits for forks and shock and all the extras too. I believe springs too. Followed the sheet too. They sucked. Went to local tuner $300 later much better He said valving recommendations way off. Charts were based on testing on the west coast. Since then I brought my new bike there too. $300 and change. No extra gimmicks or charges and it works awesome
@@matt2437 like I said, the kit is only as good as who installs it. You installed it from what I gather from your comments. Race Tech is used by top pro riders all around the world. Also to claim they didn't work for East Coast riding, couldn't be anymore vague. You're not making your argument, you're proving my original statement.
To be honest just go to a local Professional suspension shop!! Support local! RT is over rated and the “sell out” of the industry..
In 99% of the application you are just a “number” and get a generic set up.. where local can work with your needs, and the gold valves just flow more fluid allowing RT to use there own proprietary settings.. in most
Application stock pistons are just as good if not better. And a local shop can get you dialed for less the price.