Great video! Watched it ages ago when I was mustering up the courage to do a revalve on mine. Now I've done the revalve and am mustering up the courage to get the forks back together :) Watching the video now for the second time - having gained a bit of knowledge in the meatime - it really helps everything click into place. Two tips - To get the base valve out, it's not necessary to use a holding tool. (I can't buy one locally and would have to spend 3-4 times the cost to ship it here, and didn't have the capacity to make one up.) You can compress the fork a bit (to get some internal resistance), and then use an impact driver to get the base valve out. And in again. Just have to be careful not to crossthread! I'd advise using hands and a wrench to screw it in the first part and then finish with an impact. Manual, electric, or air impact all work, manual just being more tedious. Second - It's well worth it to make up a oil level setting tool with a syringe and some tubing. Just cut some tubing to the correct oil level height, rest the syringe at the top lip of the fork, and draw out oil to set the level correctly. Probably good to remeasure with a tape to be sure there's no error from curvature of the hose. Have you done any suspension valving on the DR-Z? There's a really, really good thread over on ThumperTalk: "DRZ Fork Revalve - Shim Stack Discussion & Recommendations" - read it? It's entirely possible to get very good results with the stock fork internals with a few shims. Might be interesting to your customers!
Hi krilli, glad it helped. Someone suggested using the mityvac as an oil level tool too. Not seen the thumper talk thread, I'll have a look at it. Forks are a bit soft as standard.
I've seen a lot of people on forums say stock level is 122mm and others 129mm. Both claims say they reference service manuals. Would you be able to confirm for a 2004 drz400s?
Its 2002 and later S models that have the same forks as the E model. You just pump the fork leg up and down on the earlier models till all the air is out. Takes 710cc of oil, 165mm gap between the top of the fork and the oil with the fork compressed and the spring removed
You need a damper rod tool that goes down inside the fork so you can undo the damper rod bolt. If you google it you'll see what it looks like, T-bar kind of tool
Muy bueno, cuanto CC de aceite colocaste en el manual habla de 720CC 5W. Tengo que hacerle el cambio a mi DRZ400e 00 pero me esta faltando la herramienta Front fork inner rod holder. Creo que me las voy a amañar fabricando una casera. Saludos
hi thanks for the video I have a question actually, I have 08 drz400sm, I'm supposed to think the forks are similar with drz 400e, but I just make sure that the way to change fork oil is same do you think the way to change fork oil is same with drz400sm?
Good vid, tho i have always checked fluid levels with spring installed, no spring will reduce the air gap when it comes to assembling. Maybe these are different?
i have my rebound and compression screws both set to 116 on the supermoto model is that okay? i notice you did 15 and 12. your videos have helped so much sir thank you
Great video! could you tell me if the rmx 250, year 2000 (same model since 98, convensional forks), uses the same amount of oil?? Im tring to figure out but didnt find this information anywhere! thanks!
Hi mate. Had a butch through your fb and saw your doing a mobile mechanic type thing right? What sort of areas do you cover? Im gonna do things like oil and filters, maybe fork maintenance, but bigger things il definitely need someone else doing, and i dont really trust most mechanics in shops. I know i could trust you since youve owned a DRZ
Hi. I'm around the whole of the UK. I'm mainly just working on triumphs but I'll do the jobs for you on your DRZ since they don't need any diagnostic equipment etc
Ok mate. I probably dont need anything done yet. Just bought the bike and learning a few things with maintenance, but once im all settled and happy with it il contact you. Not sure if its something you do but i basically want the whole bike looked over, just for peace of mind as i want to do some long distances. and then valves adjusted if needed, maybe brakes overhauled and stuff like that. Im also having a couple problems, was wondering if you wouldnt mind helping me diagnose? i spose all i can do is describe the problem or i can try and get a video Thanks
Wouldn't a set of verniers be a more accurate and less cumbersome way to measure oil height? Set to 122mm, place rear section in, index off shoulder, check like dipstick. Top off as needed. Great vid otherwise, given me the motivation to go and do my forks now.
![ว้าว!ลุงบีมแบกทองมารับขวัญหลานกันยกบ้าน [cc] แดนแพทตี้ SS2 | EP.49 |](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Osihq1OAs-4/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome video!! Thanks!! will be doing this to my drz shortly
+Jonathan Harder thanks. Good luck 👍🏼
Thanks for the video, I did a lot of forks before but never one with a cartridge design. Helped me on my 2009 drz400s.
+remytv thanks. They're not too hard to work on once you've seen it done 👍🏼
So stoked you said this! I have the same bike and was debating on whether or not to do this myself. How difficult was it for you?
kifach
Great video! Thanks for posting.
+Thomas Conway thanks 👍🏼
Great video, very simple, easy to follow - well done, thanks!
Thanks Mark
Great video! Watched it ages ago when I was mustering up the courage to do a revalve on mine. Now I've done the revalve and am mustering up the courage to get the forks back together :) Watching the video now for the second time - having gained a bit of knowledge in the meatime - it really helps everything click into place.
Two tips - To get the base valve out, it's not necessary to use a holding tool. (I can't buy one locally and would have to spend 3-4 times the cost to ship it here, and didn't have the capacity to make one up.) You can compress the fork a bit (to get some internal resistance), and then use an impact driver to get the base valve out. And in again. Just have to be careful not to crossthread! I'd advise using hands and a wrench to screw it in the first part and then finish with an impact. Manual, electric, or air impact all work, manual just being more tedious.
Second - It's well worth it to make up a oil level setting tool with a syringe and some tubing. Just cut some tubing to the correct oil level height, rest the syringe at the top lip of the fork, and draw out oil to set the level correctly. Probably good to remeasure with a tape to be sure there's no error from curvature of the hose.
Have you done any suspension valving on the DR-Z? There's a really, really good thread over on ThumperTalk: "DRZ Fork Revalve - Shim Stack Discussion & Recommendations" - read it? It's entirely possible to get very good results with the stock fork internals with a few shims. Might be interesting to your customers!
Hi krilli, glad it helped. Someone suggested using the mityvac as an oil level tool too. Not seen the thumper talk thread, I'll have a look at it. Forks are a bit soft as standard.
hhhhhhh kifach
Very nice. And good timing. I am planning on changing the springs and oil in my forks this weekend.
Thanks. 2002 and later S models oil level is 129mm
I've seen a lot of people on forums say stock level is 122mm and others 129mm. Both claims say they reference service manuals. Would you be able to confirm for a 2004 drz400s?
Its 2002 and later S models that have the same forks as the E model. You just pump the fork leg up and down on the earlier models till all the air is out. Takes 710cc of oil, 165mm gap between the top of the fork and the oil with the fork compressed and the spring removed
thanks, glad it will help
Hi, No its different forks on the SM. Just 2002 and later S models are the same as the E. Have a look for videos servicing RM250 forks
You need a damper rod tool that goes down inside the fork so you can undo the damper rod bolt. If you google it you'll see what it looks like, T-bar kind of tool
great video you clearly know what your doing
Thanks :-)
Nicely done ;) very useful video
Really need video thanks friend good luck.
Thanks
Thanks
Thankyou
Great video. Thanks.
+Simon Eldridge 👍🏼
Great video, cheers for sharing :)
buaan Thanks
Just a heads up, 96-98 rm250 versions of this fork are dual chambered, while this is simply and open chamber fork.
thanks.
subscribed great videos mate
Thanks
Muy bueno, cuanto CC de aceite colocaste en el manual habla de 720CC 5W. Tengo que hacerle el cambio a mi DRZ400e 00 pero me esta faltando la herramienta Front fork inner rod holder. Creo que me las voy a amañar fabricando una casera. Saludos
I have an 01 drz s model. No push rod in the tube. am ! missing something or was it not built that way back then.
Awesome video! I like how you mention the tools needed before haha. As far as you know, would an 09 drz 400s follow the same procedure?
And where do you get that plate tool from?
I’m think from 2002 they both used the same forks. The plate is a suspension tool from triumph
Hell yeah thank you sir! about to tackle this in a couple days once my shipment of parts arrives. @@MuddySump
salam
hi
thanks for the video
I have a question
actually, I have 08 drz400sm, I'm supposed to think the forks are similar with drz 400e, but I just make sure that the way to change fork oil is same
do you think the way to change fork oil is same with drz400sm?
Good vid, tho i have always checked fluid levels with spring installed, no spring will reduce the air gap when it comes to assembling. Maybe these are different?
No spring has a bigger air gap. Putting the spring in raises the oil level
@@MuddySump, you are correct, i know what i meant but it never made it to the keyboard
i have my rebound and compression screws both set to 116 on the supermoto model is that okay? i notice you did 15 and 12. your videos have helped so much sir thank you
You can see them to what ever you want. That was just the standard settings. You adjust them to fit your riding style
MuddySump thanks. Hooe i dont annoy you with noob questions
Great video! could you tell me if the rmx 250, year 2000 (same model since 98, convensional forks), uses the same amount of oil?? Im tring to figure out but didnt find this information anywhere! thanks!
Rodolfo Miqueloni I'm not too sure. It will probably be different though due to been a lighter bike
hhhhhhh kifach
Hi mate.
Had a butch through your fb and saw your doing a mobile mechanic type thing right?
What sort of areas do you cover?
Im gonna do things like oil and filters, maybe fork maintenance, but bigger things il definitely need someone else doing, and i dont really trust most mechanics in shops. I know i could trust you since youve owned a DRZ
Hi. I'm around the whole of the UK. I'm mainly just working on triumphs but I'll do the jobs for you on your DRZ since they don't need any diagnostic equipment etc
Ok mate.
I probably dont need anything done yet. Just bought the bike and learning a few things with maintenance, but once im all settled and happy with it il contact you. Not sure if its something you do but i basically want the whole bike looked over, just for peace of mind as i want to do some long distances. and then valves adjusted if needed, maybe brakes overhauled and stuff like that.
Im also having a couple problems, was wondering if you wouldnt mind helping me diagnose? i spose all i can do is describe the problem or i can try and get a video
Thanks
Can try describe it first. Email me at service@muddysump.com it's easier that way
Wouldn't a set of verniers be a more accurate and less cumbersome way to measure oil height?
Set to 122mm, place rear section in, index off shoulder, check like dipstick.
Top off as needed.
Great vid otherwise, given me the motivation to go and do my forks now.
+74KU yea, can use those too. You can get a syringe with a tube on too set to the correct level and pull any excess out
ah nice, I never thought of that idea.. very nice.
a kifach
How do you check the level i have 08 drz 400s?
You have to take them apart and check the gap from the top of the fork to the oil with the fork compressed. It’s the air gap that you measure
@MuddySump so not easy like checking engine oil?
@@Treeclimbingexpertno, it doesn’t needing checking like engine oil though. It’s just when you do a fork oil change
720ml in each forks right?
About that in the E model but then you measure the level from the top of the fork to the oil and it needs to be 122mm
And I bought 10w fork oil. Is that can be a problem?
It will be stiffer since the oil cant flow as fast
MuddySump but i want it to be stiffer, because now it is so soft, and my "settings" about to get more harder are full.
Give it a go see what its like. If its too hard could pour a bit out into a measuring jug and replace it with 5w