Tell the customer that since it's a new chain they need to check its tension often during the first tank of gas. It's a new chain and it will stretch quite a bit for a while.
You should also not use a screwdriver, they have a tapered tip. Find some flat metal stock or shims of just under the rail opening thickness and use that. You can get it completely clean that way.
All good advice except that I am NOT replacing and otherewise good chain over 3 or 4 burred sprocket teeth. A few minutes with a file, stone, or Dremel takes care of it; yes, some of us still fix things that can be fixed.
Appreciate you watching. However, it was more than 3 to 4 drag links damaged. Repair shops charge anywhere from $70 to $100 per hour to repair equipment. That being said you can see how a shop spending 30 to 40 minutes repairing burred drive links is more expensive than just replacing the chain.
I get the fact that you replaced the chain and why. Hope you had someone call him first or told him why the problem occurred in the first place, showed him the chain he screwed up and gave it back to him. That’s so called “value added” customer service and he’ll be happy and come back. Noticed the “old style” bar with a tip end sprocket you could actually grease. The modern man decided to do away with that. We’re getting dumber.
@@chainsawace1777 the thing we don't understand is WHY that saw was brought to a repair shop in the first place. If the owner couldn't figure that problem out, his saw should have been confiscated and he be given a " for your own safety, you are not allowed to own a chainsaw" card. Burred drive teeth are easily fixed with a file in minutes.
I have the same saw and I recommend whenever the side cover is off to put some grease in the hole in the drive gear shaft to grease the bearing. I was a sawyer for the USFS and a wild-land firefighter and always greased that location often. I never had a bearing failure with all the hours on my saws at work
I'm sure you know this but many don't. Always lift the nose of the bar before tightening the sprocket cover/bar clamps. I know, forgot to include this on final edit. Good video though, thank you! Clear and concise! Not easy making a video that keeps everyone happy. One very good reason I don't even try to make a video with thousands of eyes looking over my shoulder. LOL
Thanks for the feedback. Really appreciate you watching. I can absolutely say 1000% of the time I lift the tip of the bar when tightening bar nuts. Family has been in the business since 1982. Something I learned from my father when I was very young. Thanks again for watching. We have lots of stuff planned for the channel. I really hope you stick around to see them.
........... and if you decide you want to repair that old chain to have as a backup.......... Get a Dremel tool with a Drum sanding attachment. Make sure the Chain is Cleaned of Bar oil/etc. Lightly work back and forth across the high spots to even the tooth back out.(both sides of each tooth) Take your time and use your fingers to feel for any remaining high spots. *chains can also get thrown from de-limbing a Felled tree. Keep a steady grip on the saw and avoid mid-cut lean changes. Lateral shifts will push the chain to one side of the bar and any slack in the chain can cause it to go flying out of the grove.
I agree; a $40 chain is worth saving. Also, any delimbing or looping I do with a pair of Fiskars gear-drive loppers; it's faster and safer than a chainsaw.
Ah, just use an angle grinder with a cutoff disc and grind that shit off there. Doesn't make any difference whether you play nice with it or not. They're just drive teeth, and there's plenty more. Put your foot through it, stand on that, pull some tension on it with one hand, and grind with the other. Why waste time on a chain? It's just like a skilsaw blade, or a Sawzall blade, they're not reusable.
Making do with a “new” Poulan after hurricanes Helena and Milton. Was going pretty well until i got too close to the ground for a milisecond and now my “hot knife through butter” is barely a knife at all. Thank you to everyone for your great advice, i now have some fixes to try before getting after the mess again tomorrow morning.
sorry but I do not buy your diagnosis. Lack of lubrication is another very big trauma to chains. Hell throwing a chain does not finish it off, cripes I have sawn wood, including chainsaw milling, since the early 1970's and throwing chains never destroyed one. That type drive sprocket is harder on chain drive link than rim style sprockets. The sprocket shown on that saw is needing replacement, in spite of your comment it has not much wear. My guess is the guy does not have enough oiling, the chain started to seize up and the sprocket did its damage to the drive links.
Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts! Let's dive into your points: Chain Lubrication: You’re spot on about the need for good lubrication, but in this case, the chain damage was due to it coming off the guidebar, something we've seen quite a bit in our 36-year stint in the power equipment business. It’s pretty common to see drive links get damaged this way, especially if you’ve been around chainsaws as long as we have. Another way drive links can be damaged is by running a chain with excess slack. Sprocket Condition: About the sprocket - it's actually in great shape, almost like new, with hardly any wear. This is thanks to the light use by the owner. Check out the video again at the 3:00 mark, and you'll see what I mean. The teeth on the pocket literally have no wear. Also, if the sprocket was worn, the new chain would not rotate smoothly and keep the proper tension, which it did and can be seen in the video. Chainsaw Oiling: And for the oiling, we've got it covered. We always make sure the oil pump is doing its job right, and this chainsaw is no exception - it's oiling just fine. Really appreciate you bringing these points up. It’s always good to get into the nitty-gritty of these things. Hope this clears stuff up!
We've been using old hacksaw blades for guide cleaners for decades. Grind the ends to a point. Haven't found a bar that they don't fit inside yet and they fit all the way to the bottom of any guide I've seen. Because if you're going to carry an extra tool, why not carry one that works on all your saws?
Somebody actually makes a nifty little tool for cleaning the bar that has a handy little hook on it for getting in behind the tip sprocket, etc. Check with your dealer.
As @joelee2371 said - you can get a specific Bar Groove cleaner tool. Costs around £2 or $2, and is (as you’d hope) perfect for the job (doesn’t taper like a screwdriver blade, nor is it sharp enough to damage the bar like a screwdriver or hacksaw blade might.
@@TheBrushcutter I fully agree with you - if you’re careful you shouldn’t damage it. My experience is that with the right tool designed specifically for the job (whatever the job might be), you get a better result - and given that a bar scraper is just a couple of bucks; specifically designed for cleaning bars; and takes up very little space or weight, why mess around with the wrong tool like bits of hacksaw blade or a screwdriver?
ARE ALL CHAINSAW CUTTERS THE SAME SIZE ON DIFFERENT LENGTH CHAINS? HOW DO I KNOW WHAT FILE SIZE TO USE TO SHARPEN A CHAIN? I BOUGHT THREE HUSQVARNA FILE SIZES BUT HAVEN'T A CLUE WHICH ONE TO USE.
Chainsaw chains can vary in size, and the size of the cutters on the chain is determined by the chain's pitch and gauge. The pitch of the chain refers to the distance between three consecutive rivets divided by two, while the gauge is the thickness of the drive links that fit into the guide bar. Different chainsaws may require different chain sizes. To determine the correct file size for sharpening your chainsaw chain, you need to know the pitch of the chain. Common pitch sizes include .325, 3/8 inch low profile, and 3/8 inch standard. Each of these pitches corresponds to a specific round file diameter: .325 inch pitch: 3/16 inch file 3/8 inch low profile: 5/32 inch file 3/8 inch standard: 7/32 inch file It's important to use the correct file size to maintain the proper angle and depth of the cutter's edge. Using a file that's too large or too small can lead to inefficient cutting, cutting off angle and be possibly dangerous. Since you've bought three Husqvarna file sizes, you should first identify the pitch and gauge of your chainsaw chain. This information is often found stamped on the side of the chainsaw bar, close to where it inserts into the chainsaw. Once you know the pitch, you can select the appropriate file size (listed above) from the ones you have. Sorry it took so long to answer your question. I saw it earlier and when I went to respond I could not find it. However, I had a filter accidentaly selected that was preventing me from seeing it. Again, thanks so much for watching our videos. Have a great day and be safe when using your chainsaw!
Thank you! Great info. The line "Each of these pitches corresponds to a specific round file diameter: .325 inch pitch: 3/16 inch file 3/8 inch low profile: 5/32 inch file 3/8 inch standard: 7/32 inch file," is what I've been missing. I have couple chain saws. and the one I'm wanting to sharpen is a Dewalt Battery powered, the small one, I think it's a 12 inch arm (DEWALT 20V MAX* XR Chainsaw, 12-Inch, Tool Only (DCCS620B) )
I found the manual online, it says, "For best results use a 4.5 mm file and a file holder or filing guide to sharpen your chain. " ....And of course the 5/32 file I bought at Lowe's says it 4.0 mm
@@JimVincitoreyou can hardly see the difference between 4 and 4.5mm, and good luck finding metric files in the US. I suspect 4mm will work okay, and is probably better than being oversize.
@@JimVincitoreyou can hardly see the difference between 4 and 4.5mm, and good luck finding metric files in the US. I suspect 4mm will work okay, and is probably better than being oversize.
Wow! Really appreciate the kind words! Were just getting this channel started and have great things planned. The quality of our production will increase greatly in the coming weeks. We are building a set with proper lighting and multiple cameras and way better audio. We have some full blown chainsaw restorations coming on some 40 to 60 year old saws. Were so excited! Again, Thanks for watching. Your support means the world to us.
LUV the tip about turnin the chain tension screw.... all the way to the back FIRST. You don't even want to know 😂 how I was doin it.... it was like a circus act!
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching. I'm new to this whole youtube thing but I'm learning how to make better content everyday. I hope to share my knowledge with you all in the best way possible. Im just a guy that knows about chainsaws with an iphone and a dream. :)
They make a tool to clean the bar. Don't use a screwdriver. Chains come off because people don't check the tension while cutting. They just saw till it runs out of fuel. Keep your chain out of the dirt it will get dulled in 3 seconds of dirt contact. As someone else commented its like sand blasting it. Just because it oils does not mean the guy that was running it had oil in the tank. Have a nice day.
You're correct. However, it is cheaper for the customer to replace the chain in this case as opposed to me spending 30 to 40 mins filing drag links in a chain. Thank you for watching. Appreciate it.
My man, i was taught to put the "thrown" chain on super loose, run the saw and rev it a few times it will burn off the burs, yeah its hard on your bar and chain, than tighten up the chain to good tension, that old chain is far from done, Ive thrown chain a few 100 times logging and tree work, and always done what i stated above to get cutting again,
If I replaced a chain every time drive links got damaged I would go broke. I got lazy and don't adjust chain when needed them costs me more time when links got buried up. Rotary tool is ur friend.
I completely agree with your point on the rotary tool being great for repairing damagaged drive links on a chain. However, consider a scenario where a customer takes a saw to a repair shop where the labor charge is $80 an hour. In such cases, it's more cost-effective to simply replace the chain. $80 per hour is actually on the low side of labor in our area as well. Thank you for watching, I really appreciate your support.
-30 C with a new chain expanding while running and instantly contracting is a fun game too. Pack a diamond hone to touch up the drags when using near limbs. Though number 4 reason for chains coming off the guide is hitting a piece of hi tense fence wire wrapped around wood and covered by snow!
I hear you man. If you have time and a flat file you likely can repair most of them, depending on how badly damaged they are. Thanks so much for watching.
Obviously someone likes to sell new chain. That's silly, 30-40 minutes using a file? It's pretty rare to throw a chain and not have a burr on some drivers. Just flip the chain so drivers are facing the wheel and carefully take the burr off on the side of the grinder wheel. Very easy to do and only takes a few minutes. Many have a chain sharpner that uses the pink wheels which work great but a regular bench grinder can take the burrs off. Get your chains off the wall of shame and start using them again. It usually happens from running a loose chain on small limbs/brush less than 1". Good video but drivers can easily be fixed and do a bunch more cutting.
this is why i hate the little aluminum chain catchers... they destroy chains... I've even seen them break cutters off... the plastic roller type is definitely superior. its one of the reason i abandoned homeowner grade saws in favor of pro saws with dual felling dogs... that and captive bar nuts and rim drive sprockets
@chainsawace1777 in fact, the chain slipped off my 36-volt saw while cutting a lilac bush the other day. About eight drive teeth, heavily damaged. I put it back on and basically forced it to function nonetheless. The chain steel is softer than the bar steel, so it's not going to damage the bar very much, and I was in a hurry, so.
Thanks so much man. Really appreciate you watching. I'm working on similar videos right now with way better production quality. I hope to get 1 or 2 out this week. Also, I have about 8 to 10 really old vintage saws that are in terrible shape. Some saw are over 60 years old. Gonna be doing full complete restorations on these. I'm excited about it. I hope you stick around to see our plans. Thank you again for the kind comment and watching.
Tell the customer that since it's a new chain they need to check its tension often during the first tank of gas. It's a new chain and it will stretch quite a bit for a while.
Appreciate the feedback. Thanks so much for watching.
Suggest you pull the crud along bar groove from tip to tail, so as to avoid introducing material into the nose sprocket bearing.
Agreed. Did off camera. Hard to capture things on video sometimes. Great tip. Thanks for watching.
Take the dirt away from nose of the bar not the way you did
Agreed. I did this off camera. I did multiple takes. Great tip
You should also not use a screwdriver, they have a tapered tip. Find some flat metal stock or shims of just under the rail opening thickness and use that. You can get it completely clean that way.
You forgot to mention to hold the bar up when adjusting and tightening the chain
He mentioned that about 4 minutes 30 in
All good advice except that I am NOT replacing and otherewise good chain over 3 or 4 burred sprocket teeth. A few minutes with a file, stone, or Dremel takes care of it; yes, some of us still fix things that can be fixed.
Appreciate you watching. However, it was more than 3 to 4 drag links damaged. Repair shops charge anywhere from $70 to $100 per hour to repair equipment. That being said you can see how a shop spending 30 to 40 minutes repairing burred drive links is more expensive than just replacing the chain.
I get the fact that you replaced the chain and why. Hope you had someone call him first or told him why the problem occurred in the first place, showed him the chain he screwed up and gave it back to him. That’s so called “value added” customer service and he’ll be happy and come back. Noticed the “old style” bar with a tip end sprocket you could actually grease. The modern man decided to do away with that. We’re getting dumber.
@@chainsawace1777 the thing we don't understand is WHY that saw was brought to a repair shop in the first place. If the owner couldn't figure that problem out, his saw should have been confiscated and he be given a " for your own safety, you are not allowed to own a chainsaw" card. Burred drive teeth are easily fixed with a file in minutes.
I have the same saw and I recommend whenever the side cover is off to put some grease in the hole in the drive gear shaft to grease the bearing. I was a sawyer for the USFS and a wild-land firefighter and always greased that location often. I never had a bearing failure with all the hours on my saws at work
Good tip! Appreciate the feedback. Thank you for watching!
I'm sure you know this but many don't.
Always lift the nose of the bar before tightening the sprocket cover/bar clamps. I know, forgot to include this on final edit. Good video though, thank you! Clear and concise!
Not easy making a video that keeps everyone happy. One very good reason I don't even try to make a video with thousands of eyes looking over my shoulder. LOL
Thanks for the feedback. Really appreciate you watching.
I can absolutely say 1000% of the time I lift the tip of the bar when tightening bar nuts. Family has been in the business since 1982. Something I learned from my father when I was very young.
Thanks again for watching. We have lots of stuff planned for the channel. I really hope you stick around to see them.
........... and if you decide you want to repair that old chain to have as a backup.......... Get a Dremel tool with a Drum sanding attachment. Make sure the Chain is Cleaned of Bar oil/etc.
Lightly work back and forth across the high spots to even the tooth back out.(both sides of each tooth) Take your time and use your fingers to feel for any remaining high spots.
*chains can also get thrown from de-limbing a Felled tree. Keep a steady grip on the saw and avoid mid-cut lean changes. Lateral shifts will push the chain to one side of the bar and any slack in the chain can cause it to go flying out of the grove.
Great advice! Thanks for watching.
I agree; a $40 chain is worth saving. Also, any delimbing or looping I do with a pair of Fiskars gear-drive loppers; it's faster and safer than a chainsaw.
Ah, just use an angle grinder with a cutoff disc and grind that shit off there. Doesn't make any difference whether you play nice with it or not. They're just drive teeth, and there's plenty more.
Put your foot through it, stand on that, pull some tension on it with one hand, and grind with the other. Why waste time on a chain? It's just like a skilsaw blade, or a Sawzall blade, they're not reusable.
Making do with a “new” Poulan after hurricanes Helena and Milton. Was going pretty well until i got too close to the ground for a milisecond and now my “hot knife through butter” is barely a knife at all. Thank you to everyone for your great advice, i now have some fixes to try before getting after the mess again tomorrow morning.
sorry but I do not buy your diagnosis. Lack of lubrication is another very big trauma to chains. Hell throwing a chain does not finish it off, cripes I have sawn wood, including chainsaw milling, since the early 1970's and throwing chains never destroyed one. That type drive sprocket is harder on chain drive link than rim style sprockets. The sprocket shown on that saw is needing replacement, in spite of your comment it has not much wear. My guess is the guy does not have enough oiling, the chain started to seize up and the sprocket did its damage to the drive links.
Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts! Let's dive into your points:
Chain Lubrication: You’re spot on about the need for good lubrication, but in this case, the chain damage was due to it coming off the guidebar, something we've seen quite a bit in our 36-year stint in the power equipment business. It’s pretty common to see drive links get damaged this way, especially if you’ve been around chainsaws as long as we have. Another way drive links can be damaged is by running a chain with excess slack.
Sprocket Condition: About the sprocket - it's actually in great shape, almost like new, with hardly any wear. This is thanks to the light use by the owner. Check out the video again at the 3:00 mark, and you'll see what I mean. The teeth on the pocket literally have no wear. Also, if the sprocket was worn, the new chain would not rotate smoothly and keep the proper tension, which it did and can be seen in the video.
Chainsaw Oiling: And for the oiling, we've got it covered. We always make sure the oil pump is doing its job right, and this chainsaw is no exception - it's oiling just fine.
Really appreciate you bringing these points up. It’s always good to get into the nitty-gritty of these things. Hope this clears stuff up!
That sprocket is close to shot. Once the heat treated surface is breached it goes downhill fast and probably why the chain was thrown.
Thanks for watching. Great tip.
We've been using old hacksaw blades for guide cleaners for decades. Grind the ends to a point. Haven't found a bar that they don't fit inside yet and they fit all the way to the bottom of any guide I've seen. Because if you're going to carry an extra tool, why not carry one that works on all your saws?
A piece of broken hacksaw blade works really well in cleaning the bar
Good tip. Thanks for watching.
Somebody actually makes a nifty little tool for cleaning the bar that has a handy little hook on it for getting in behind the tip sprocket, etc. Check with your dealer.
As @joelee2371 said - you can get a specific Bar Groove cleaner tool. Costs around £2 or $2, and is (as you’d hope) perfect for the job (doesn’t taper like a screwdriver blade, nor is it sharp enough to damage the bar like a screwdriver or hacksaw blade might.
@@rram9484 if you're damaging the bar with a hacksaw blade you are doing it WRONG.
@@TheBrushcutter I fully agree with you - if you’re careful you shouldn’t damage it. My experience is that with the right tool designed specifically for the job (whatever the job might be), you get a better result - and given that a bar scraper is just a couple of bucks; specifically designed for cleaning bars; and takes up very little space or weight, why mess around with the wrong tool like bits of hacksaw blade or a screwdriver?
ARE ALL CHAINSAW CUTTERS THE SAME SIZE ON DIFFERENT LENGTH CHAINS? HOW DO I KNOW WHAT FILE SIZE TO USE TO SHARPEN A CHAIN? I BOUGHT THREE HUSQVARNA FILE SIZES BUT HAVEN'T A CLUE WHICH ONE TO USE.
Chainsaw chains can vary in size, and the size of the cutters on the chain is determined by the chain's pitch and gauge. The pitch of the chain refers to the distance between three consecutive rivets divided by two, while the gauge is the thickness of the drive links that fit into the guide bar. Different chainsaws may require different chain sizes.
To determine the correct file size for sharpening your chainsaw chain, you need to know the pitch of the chain. Common pitch sizes include .325, 3/8 inch low profile, and 3/8 inch standard. Each of these pitches corresponds to a specific round file diameter:
.325 inch pitch: 3/16 inch file
3/8 inch low profile: 5/32 inch file
3/8 inch standard: 7/32 inch file
It's important to use the correct file size to maintain the proper angle and depth of the cutter's edge. Using a file that's too large or too small can lead to inefficient cutting, cutting off angle and be possibly dangerous.
Since you've bought three Husqvarna file sizes, you should first identify the pitch and gauge of your chainsaw chain. This information is often found stamped on the side of the chainsaw bar, close to where it inserts into the chainsaw. Once you know the pitch, you can select the appropriate file size (listed above) from the ones you have.
Sorry it took so long to answer your question. I saw it earlier and when I went to respond I could not find it. However, I had a filter accidentaly selected that was preventing me from seeing it.
Again, thanks so much for watching our videos. Have a great day and be safe when using your chainsaw!
Thank you! Great info. The line "Each of these pitches corresponds to a specific round file diameter: .325 inch pitch: 3/16 inch file 3/8 inch low profile: 5/32 inch file 3/8 inch standard: 7/32 inch file," is what I've been missing. I have couple chain saws. and the one I'm wanting to sharpen is a Dewalt Battery powered, the small one, I think it's a 12 inch arm (DEWALT 20V MAX* XR Chainsaw, 12-Inch, Tool Only (DCCS620B) )
I found the manual online, it says, "For best results use a 4.5 mm file and a file holder or filing guide to sharpen your chain. " ....And of course the 5/32 file I bought at Lowe's says it 4.0 mm
@@JimVincitoreyou can hardly see the difference between 4 and 4.5mm, and good luck finding metric files in the US. I suspect 4mm will work okay, and is probably better than being oversize.
@@JimVincitoreyou can hardly see the difference between 4 and 4.5mm, and good luck finding metric files in the US. I suspect 4mm will work okay, and is probably better than being oversize.
Great video! Very cool! THANK YOU! Keep the vids coming!
Wow! Really appreciate the kind words!
Were just getting this channel started and have great things planned. The quality of our production will increase greatly in the coming weeks. We are building a set with proper lighting and multiple cameras and way better audio.
We have some full blown chainsaw restorations coming on some 40 to 60 year old saws. Were so excited!
Again, Thanks for watching. Your support means the world to us.
LUV the tip about turnin the chain tension screw.... all the way to the back FIRST.
You don't even want to know 😂 how I was doin it.... it was like a circus act!
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching. I'm new to this whole youtube thing but I'm learning how to make better content everyday. I hope to share my knowledge with you all in the best way possible. Im just a guy that knows about chainsaws with an iphone and a dream. :)
If I hit dirt I stop and use other saw
Then remove bar and chain, part washer and dry with air
Oil it up good and sharpen chain 😊
Great tip! Thanks for watching!
They make a tool to clean the bar. Don't use a screwdriver. Chains come off because people don't check the tension while cutting. They just saw till it runs out of fuel. Keep your chain out of the dirt it will get dulled in 3 seconds of dirt contact. As someone else commented its like sand blasting it. Just because it oils does not mean the guy that was running it had oil in the tank. Have a nice day.
Thanks for watching!
I've filed drive links many times. There is nothing wrong with that chain. Send it to me.😅
You're correct. However, it is cheaper for the customer to replace the chain in this case as opposed to me spending 30 to 40 mins filing drag links in a chain.
Thank you for watching. Appreciate it.
@@chainsawace1777 Some people shouldn't own a saw, I think.
My man, i was taught to put the "thrown" chain on super loose, run the saw and rev it a few times it will burn off the burs, yeah its hard on your bar and chain, than tighten up the chain to good tension, that old chain is far from done,
Ive thrown chain a few 100 times logging and tree work, and always done what i stated above to get cutting again,
If you do that make sure you have a chain catcher on your chainsaw. Thanks for watching.
If I replaced a chain every time drive links got damaged I would go broke. I got lazy and don't adjust chain when needed them costs me more time when links got buried up. Rotary tool is ur friend.
I completely agree with your point on the rotary tool being great for repairing damagaged drive links on a chain.
However, consider a scenario where a customer takes a saw to a repair shop where the labor charge is $80 an hour. In such cases, it's more cost-effective to simply replace the chain. $80 per hour is actually on the low side of labor in our area as well.
Thank you for watching, I really appreciate your support.
If anyone has “bad” chains like this, please send them to me 😅
Yes, a little effort and time a chain damaged like this can be used again. Thanks for watching.
-30 C with a new chain expanding while running and instantly contracting is a fun game too. Pack a diamond hone to touch up the drags when using near limbs. Though number 4 reason for chains coming off the guide is hitting a piece of hi tense fence wire wrapped around wood and covered by snow!
I have a bunch of brand new unusable chains I keep on my wall of shame😂
I hear you man. If you have time and a flat file you likely can repair most of them, depending on how badly damaged they are. Thanks so much for watching.
A good small engine mechanic can repair most defects with chains, including re-riveting broken links, and lengthening or shortening.
@@joelee2371 Yes for sure and I will eventually get a few re-usable ones out of them however they will likely cost almost as much as new ones😵💫
I want to put new sprocket, what is
Thanks for watching. I will be doing a video on how to install a sprocket very soon.
I had to learn.... once your chain ⛓️ comes off, it's pretty much done!
You got that right!
Obviously someone likes to sell new chain. That's silly, 30-40 minutes using a file? It's pretty rare to throw a chain and not have a burr on some drivers. Just flip the chain so drivers are facing the wheel and carefully take the burr off on the side of the grinder wheel. Very easy to do and only takes a few minutes. Many have a chain sharpner that uses the pink wheels which work great but a regular bench grinder can take the burrs off. Get your chains off the wall of shame and start using them again. It usually happens from running a loose chain on small limbs/brush less than 1". Good video but drivers can easily be fixed and do a bunch more cutting.
this is why i hate the little aluminum chain catchers... they destroy chains... I've even seen them break cutters off... the plastic roller type is definitely superior. its one of the reason i abandoned homeowner grade saws in favor of pro saws with dual felling dogs... that and captive bar nuts and rim drive sprockets
Sorry 4 grammar. Phone knows more than bout spelling than I do.
A customer that doesn’t know this simple level of maintenance shouldn’t be cutting wood with a chainsaw
Thanks for watching.
Rule No1, never replace chain in shop without using compressed air to clean the saw, a very sloppy fix......
Rule number 2. Never assume it was not done off camera. Because it was. Not everything is always shown due to multiple takes and editing. :)
Don't cut into the dirt, it is like sandblasting it.
This is true! Thanks for watching!
Just get an angle grinder and smooth them out.
See above comments. Thank you for watching!
@chainsawace1777 in fact, the chain slipped off my 36-volt saw while cutting a lilac bush the other day. About eight drive teeth, heavily damaged. I put it back on and basically forced it to function nonetheless. The chain steel is softer than the bar steel, so it's not going to damage the bar very much, and I was in a hurry, so.
Nice content 🙏🏿🇺🇸🪓
Thanks so much man. Really appreciate you watching.
I'm working on similar videos right now with way better production quality. I hope to get 1 or 2 out this week.
Also, I have about 8 to 10 really old vintage saws that are in terrible shape. Some saw are over 60 years old. Gonna be doing full complete restorations on these. I'm excited about it.
I hope you stick around to see our plans.
Thank you again for the kind comment and watching.