@@PatTheCat your hair is fine. You do YOU. Never have seen that someone's hair makes a difference in the quality of their work. Has nothing to DO with the hair lol.
Just a tip for beginners. Don’t cut the length until you get a good cope cut or the third cut he made. That way if you mess up just cut another 45 and start over. Yes it’s more time however will save you as seam.
The second 90 degree cut, I usually back cut by a couple of degrees, along with the coping cuts. It gives you a bit of wiggle room if the walls are a bit uneven
I've decided to redo my entire house and ill be adding chair rail. I've never done this before so it's a little intimidating. Your video was very thorough and I'm hoping it will be as easy as you made it look? I'll let you know how it turned out for me. Thanks again for sharing. I really do appreciate it .
Just my opinion, when you cope, always open the door into your room. Cut the wall you see square. Then cope into it, so that after it's caulked , if the caulking shrinks, you don't notice the cope.
Great instructional video. I recently installed 6 inch craftsman style baseboards using this method. What’s the easiest way to cope hemlock style shoe base since is such a small piece to work with, the small profile is super fragile too. Also a how-to on a mitered return on shoe base would be awesome too.Thanks!
I am a novice DIY'er. I have to fabricate and install 50 feet of baseboard to replace the 130 year old stained baseboards that the demo asses destroyed. I really appreciate the detailed explanation of how to deal with the whole piece and not just the coped end. Question, if I'm understanding this correctly, if you make a bad cut and the square end winds up a tad short, it doesn't matter because that flaw will be concealed with the coped end. Is that right? Thank you.
There isn't really a wrong way but its easier to measure from sheetrock to sheetrock cut 45 on the end and it automatically fits. Cutting the straight with a miterbox is great also. I'm a puller just like you are. I can't see how people can push a coping saw. I'm a 35yr experienced trim contractor and you did pretty good there.
Nice cope man. Kudos on cutting on the DOWN stroke. You say "it doesn't get much better than that" BUT, believe me; over time you'll get it even much tighter than THAT. Also, try a jigsaw using a coping blade: Your wrists WILL thank you later. Plus, it's just MUCH faster. Takes a bit to get the hang of it but, WELL worth it in terms of speed and being nice to your body.
No hes right that cope should have been much tighter it didnt look very well at all. And his measuring method can lead to alot of inaccuracies. But he'll get it some day. Hes ok. And I cut on the down stroke as well. It prevents you from possibly chipping the face of the trim
Good Question. Only time I've had to glue base down was on an exterior basement wall with no framing. I used a product by Liquid Nail's called FUZE It. - I'd work to find weights, or 5 gallon paint buckets to hold the base into place as the glue sets. Good luck!
Then my friend you had the tool of choice ,I have one but I choose the old school method saw teeth ,grinder for finishing the recess . Old school tools teaches proper handling of all other tools, even a painters brush ,always allow the tool to do it's work lol we just help It along ..I'm teaching myself carpentry these videos here have taught me how to maintain my own home remodels as well . To all you Who make videos Thanks .
@@PatTheCat Don't get pressured to use an angle grinder. They are very dangerous tools... can easily end your carpentry career in a second. All the time it saved you will be meaningless when you are missing fingers etc. Safety over speed. Also, liked the video and tips. Good job!
Hi, great video. My question is how do I angle the chopping saw so that I get less on the bottom or back of the cut. I keep cutting off my 45 degree angle and the pieces don't fit together like they should.
I suppose you can. I just recently used a batter powered circular saw to install base and cope it, so when there's a will there's a way! In your case, if you had a multitool that would be helpful, you'll want to watch that the saw doesn't kick when you power it down and that the base is supported and not moving at all. Good luck!
Really a hole for the supply line. You offset the base molding by using 3 more pieces and setting into the main base so the profile creates a top and side frames creating a nice flat area for your escutcheon. Wish I could add a photo as I just finished doing such.
Can you do a video on how to measure the wall and then the skirting board so you know exactly the lengths you need to cut to cope it. Then the length it needs to be after coping. No online videos show how to measure etc so you don't end up cutting too short or too long before coping, then after coping etc
@@PatTheCat my skirting is 18mm thick at the bottom and narrows to about 9mm (roughly) at top. I put a waste piece of skirting in against the wall. Do I measure from the base of the waste skirting where its 18mm or the top where its 9mm ? Also when I'm measuring from that waste piece against the wall, do I measure to the bare wall on the other side or to another waste piece of timber ?
@@darachslife5875 OK, are you trimming out the whole room? Or just replacing a few pieces? It also would be good to determine which hand you were going to cope with. Since I cope with my right hand, I cut the board square on the left that way all my copes are done with my right hand. In cutting anything, always use your longest dimension. Measure twice cut once, if it’s long cut short, if it’s still long cut shorter. If your piece is too long and your cope is dead on, then just cut your square side back in increments of a 16 inch or 32nd at a time. Cope just one time, then reduce the square side if it’s too long
@@PatTheCat thank you very much for replying by the way. Okay let's just for arguments sake say say each wall is 600mm long and four walls perfect square room. Im coping same as you have said in video and I'm right handed. Skirting is 180mm high by 18mm thick at base and narrows into 9mm at top So I cut one end at 45°, cope it back etc. Its the length back that always gets me cos I've to keep cutting a little at a time cos obviously if its too big it won't fit and then when I cut too short its too late and I think its the 9mm between the top and bottom thickness that keeps getting me. So do you reckon the length of the board should be 582mm measuring back from the coped end or 591mm and I'm using a hand saw at the minute so its very time consuming trying to cut it to length a couple of times hence why I'm asking about measuring to try speed it up a length
Do his way of measuring is not very accurate do to most drywall in the corners are not truly plumb do to over mudding or under mudding. Measure wall to wall (without a spacer) roughly were the top of your base will be on the wall for example if its 600mm go to your saw cut your 45 degree cut. Now BEFORE YOU COPE anything take your tape and hook the long point of the 45 and measure out the 600mm and that will be your straight cut. Now you can cope everything out. This works reguardless of any style or profile of base. And just cause your right handed doesnt mean you cant do left copes give it a try may be easier for you. After training no joke, nearly 100 people how to trim 98% of them if they are right handed left copes are easier and left handed people right copes are easier but do what works for you and dont be afraid to try something different
I'm confused. Total noob btw. But that joint looked hella loose. Most other coping vids I see have zero gaps. Am I missing something? Are those simply being filled with caulk or something?
@@PatTheCat lol def not criticizing the work. It was a great cope. I was just curious there was additional work for the final product. It's a thousand times better than the prof contractors I just paid thousands to do with my floors who just mitered everything and not a single corner looks good lol
@@mcdonamw I don’t know, push it tight? I look at this cope everyday and think, “that looks good.” More people have seen this in my bathroom than anything else in my house lol
Great video and well explained, thank you for taking the time to educate others. I will like to see a single tutorial from the mediocre caulking Carpenter making comments down below. William V, craftsman Does not need to caulk anything. When trimming high end homes the baseboards are always going to be very tall and coping is a necessity to a high quality job.
Its alot easier to make your cuts with the baseboard standing up on your miterbox than laying flat. Especially with a miterbox like yours. You just flip it upside down to make that straight cut on the cope
Good info, but I almost ALWAYS miter base with this much detail. I usually cut both inside meters at 44 or 44.5 and pinch in the longer runs to the shorter runs.
That was terrible looking what a mess you should get some caulk and cover up the bad coup you just spent 10 minutes creating. A waist level table and a clamp might help you out next time.
I agree with pat you’re not going to get as good of profile match just cutting miters, also coping will more likely maintain a good joint if the wood shrink or expand. I have trimmed a lot of high end homes and have yet to see a perfect drywall corner. Not slamming you John just disagreeing with you.
Coping is so not needed and to be honest takes to long. If you must cope then use an angle grinder and flap disk which is so much quicker but to be honest there are so many accurate angle finder tools out there that you can just measure the angle correctly and so accurately that you mitre saw will be doing all the work. Coping is so 90s
I find it easier to use a lot of caulk and just charge the customer extra for it. Saves a lot of frustration. Do I get call backs? No never. Not one customer has ever called me back.
No they didnt call you back because your a hack and wouldnt want you back in the house hackin stuff in and over charging them again. There is no frustration with cutting it correctly. Its an easy instal
Ugh... quality carpentry is attention to details - you have a great career - but check your details - you have the knowledge - use it- and use those same details in everything you do- like editing the video so we aren’t starring at a corner of a window for more than 7 seconds Clean up your copes!!!
SO MUCH EASIER IF YOU COPE THE LEFT SIDE OF THE BOARD! ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE RIGHT HANDED! ANYTHING THAT IS BELOW EYE LEVEL SHOULD BE COPED LEFT! ANYTHING ABOVE EYE LEVEL SHOULD BE COPED RIGHT! IN OTHER WORDS, ANYTHING BELOW EYE LEVEL, YOU SHOULD INSTALL CLOCKWISE! ANYTHING ABOVE EYE LEVEL SHOULD BE INSTALLED COUNTERCLOCKWISE! THAT WAY, ALSO, YOU DON'T HAVE THE END OF THE COPE BLOWING OUT! COMMON SENSE PEOPLE!!!!!!
Agreed seems like a huge waste of time when you can just caulk a small gap. If it isnt 45 then just use a starett mitre tool to get the correct angles. So much faster. Time is important when contracting. Quality is as well but I just see this as only marginally better
This is true, I’m not very experienced. But I did build this entire house in my spare time & made a video on how to cope larger trim that seems to be reaching people who are learning how to do it. -
@@PatTheCat no it looks good....still need caulk....dont waste time coping unless the house value is there...i dont do it on anything under $500k....its all about ratios !!
William A so 650k would make coping worth while? I don’t support this logic. It’s all about the square cut and coping one end. So much faster. & & Caulking is a bad carpenters best friend.
@@PatTheCat yes if you dont know what your doing....very little experience....miters are the quickest for ..No over $350k maybe... a good carpenter can do good miters.....its the fastest
@@Mrcrisis2012 Miters are quicker, and they will do the job if the corner is perfect. But all corners vary, particularly when too much mud is applied during drywall jointing. A good cope cut doesn't care what the angle of the corner is. It will fit perfectly whether it's 30 or 60 degrees. The cut might take longer, but you save time on measuring the angle and then caulking. Ultimately, it's the end result that matters, and coping gives the best result.
Cope your hair......just miter...cope huge waste of time...caulk...mine always look perfect !! That's what it's made for...expand and contract and a minimal amount ...caulks not a building.material!!
William A cope on small base when everything is square. This home was a second story addition and not everything is square. I coped because it was the only tool I had & I had plenty of time and not a lot of money for my own home renovation.
Cut your hair!
johnny hicks I know right!?
@@PatTheCat your hair is fine. You do YOU. Never have seen that someone's hair makes a difference in the quality of their work. Has nothing to DO with the hair lol.
You jealous Johnny? I notice you don't have hair. Lol
Fuck that. Grow it out
Grow your hair. You’re putting the Icks in Hicks.
Just a tip for beginners. Don’t cut the length until you get a good cope cut or the third cut he made. That way if you mess up just cut another 45 and start over. Yes it’s more time however will save you as seam.
Yes!! Cut the length last, in case something goes wrong with the coping cut. You then will still have some extra to cut off on the other end.
The second 90 degree cut, I usually back cut by a couple of degrees, along with the coping cuts. It gives you a bit of wiggle room if the walls are a bit uneven
I've decided to redo my entire house and ill be adding chair rail. I've never done this before so it's a little intimidating. Your video was very thorough and I'm hoping it will be as easy as you made it look? I'll let you know how it turned out for me. Thanks again for sharing. I really do appreciate it .
Good Luck Cindy. Spend 2x or 3x in preparation. You're on the right track getting help on youtube!
A little sand paper on coped corners go a long way. Cleaner tighter fit
@patthecat very descriptive thank you. I could not find any videos that actually explained and showed the cuts.
I liked the video, will follow your steps...thanks...building a new home in the next two months
Just my opinion, when you cope, always open the door into your room. Cut the wall you see square. Then cope into it, so that after it's caulked , if the caulking shrinks, you don't notice the cope.
You’re a very good presenter. Thanks for taking the time to create this video.
No one ever shows the cope cut from all sides why? It’s like they cut it and go there it is. While only showing it from the front.
thats great info. too advanced for me but picked up some good info. thanks
Excellent video on coping for a right hander.
I’ll upload it reversed, and it will be for left-hand
Really good alternative to usual coping methods. Totally enjoyed this.
I’ll gladly be subscriber #677 👍🏼 thanks for the tips.
Great instructional video. I recently installed 6 inch craftsman style baseboards using this method. What’s the easiest way to cope hemlock style shoe base since is such a small piece to work with, the small profile is super fragile too. Also a how-to on a mitered return on shoe base would be awesome too.Thanks!
thanks for watching and your comment.
I am a novice DIY'er. I have to fabricate and install 50 feet of baseboard to replace the 130 year old stained baseboards that the demo asses destroyed. I really appreciate the detailed explanation of how to deal with the whole piece and not just the coped end. Question, if I'm understanding this correctly, if you make a bad cut and the square end winds up a tad short, it doesn't matter because that flaw will be concealed with the coped end. Is that right? Thank you.
Thank you so much! Going to be very helpful.
There isn't really a wrong way but its easier to measure from sheetrock to sheetrock cut 45 on the end and it automatically fits. Cutting the straight with a miterbox is great also. I'm a puller just like you are. I can't see how people can push a coping saw. I'm a 35yr experienced trim contractor and you did pretty good there.
Thanks Jeff! Stay tuned!
Nice cope man. Kudos on cutting on the DOWN stroke. You say "it doesn't get much better than that" BUT, believe me; over time you'll get it even much tighter than THAT. Also, try a jigsaw using a coping blade: Your wrists WILL thank you later. Plus, it's just MUCH faster. Takes a bit to get the hang of it but, WELL worth it in terms of speed and being nice to your body.
No hes right that cope should have been much tighter it didnt look very well at all. And his measuring method can lead to alot of inaccuracies. But he'll get it some day. Hes ok. And I cut on the down stroke as well. It prevents you from possibly chipping the face of the trim
Pat the Cooool Cat, nice copin dude. Keep your hair just like it is, that other guy is likely jealous
What guy is that buddy
Well done mite! Keep up the good work!
Hey Cat: How do you attach stained baseboard to brick or plaster? Great video!
Good Question. Only time I've had to glue base down was on an exterior basement wall with no framing. I used a product by Liquid Nail's called FUZE It. - I'd work to find weights, or 5 gallon paint buckets to hold the base into place as the glue sets. Good luck!
Thanks, always wanted to cope!
Coping with a small angle grinder copes in seconds back resessing the fit for tightness .40 grit wheel .
All I had was a coping saw
Then my friend you had the tool of choice ,I have one but I choose the old school method saw teeth ,grinder for finishing the recess .
Old school tools teaches proper handling of all other tools, even a painters brush ,always allow the tool to do it's work lol we just help
It along ..I'm teaching myself carpentry these videos here have taught me how to maintain my own home remodels as well . To all you Who make videos Thanks .
@@PatTheCat Don't get pressured to use an angle grinder. They are very dangerous tools... can easily end your carpentry career in a second. All the time it saved you will be meaningless when you are missing fingers etc. Safety over speed.
Also, liked the video and tips. Good job!
Hi, great video. My question is how do I angle the chopping saw so that I get less on the bottom or back of the cut. I keep cutting off my 45 degree angle and the pieces don't fit together like they should.
Candace Harmon cut the board square or straight , until you need to cope the profile of the accent on the trim.
@@PatTheCat thanks
Nice video. Well explained.
If you don't have a sliding miter saw can you do that straight cut vertical and upside down?
I suppose you can. I just recently used a batter powered circular saw to install base and cope it, so when there's a will there's a way! In your case, if you had a multitool that would be helpful, you'll want to watch that the saw doesn't kick when you power it down and that the base is supported and not moving at all. Good luck!
Really a hole for the supply line. You offset the base molding by using 3 more pieces and setting into the main base so the profile creates a top and side frames creating a nice flat area for your escutcheon. Wish I could add a photo as I just finished doing such.
I think I understand what you are saying!!
Why cant you jig saw or band saw these?
Good job explaining the steps.
Thank you Barry.
Awesome video! This is gonna help me a lot on my basement project. Much appreciated.
Jordan P right on!
Keep doing what your doing kid,your doing great.
You are awesome - just what I needed, thank you!
Happy this helped! Thanks for watching!
Great video but why is there a gap still
Vance Nelson nothing is nailed in at this point. And cause it’s 4K 😂
I agree with Vance, it should be light tight when just pushed together.
@@PatTheCat idk they just didn't look very round, sand paper goes a long way.
It's because he down cut the cope... is a much tighter fit if you back cut a close to 45 as you can.
I wish I wouldn't have watched one of the videos that came up on my feed. 9/10 videos are baseboard
Sorry, it’s all about that base.
Can you do a video on how to measure the wall and then the skirting board so you know exactly the lengths you need to cut to cope it. Then the length it needs to be after coping.
No online videos show how to measure etc so you don't end up cutting too short or too long before coping, then after coping etc
That’s what video does exactly. Watch the measuring part once more.
@@PatTheCat my skirting is 18mm thick at the bottom and narrows to about 9mm (roughly) at top.
I put a waste piece of skirting in against the wall. Do I measure from the base of the waste skirting where its 18mm or the top where its 9mm ?
Also when I'm measuring from that waste piece against the wall, do I measure to the bare wall on the other side or to another waste piece of timber ?
@@darachslife5875 OK, are you trimming out the whole room? Or just replacing a few pieces? It also would be good to determine which hand you were going to cope with. Since I cope with my right hand, I cut the board square on the left that way all my copes are done with my right hand. In cutting anything, always use your longest dimension. Measure twice cut once, if it’s long cut short, if it’s still long cut shorter. If your piece is too long and your cope is dead on, then just cut your square side back in increments of a 16 inch or 32nd at a time. Cope just one time, then reduce the square side if it’s too long
@@PatTheCat thank you very much for replying by the way.
Okay let's just for arguments sake say say each wall is 600mm long and four walls perfect square room. Im coping same as you have said in video and I'm right handed. Skirting is 180mm high by 18mm thick at base and narrows into 9mm at top
So I cut one end at 45°, cope it back etc. Its the length back that always gets me cos I've to keep cutting a little at a time cos obviously if its too big it won't fit and then when I cut too short its too late and I think its the 9mm between the top and bottom thickness that keeps getting me.
So do you reckon the length of the board should be 582mm measuring back from the coped end or 591mm and I'm using a hand saw at the minute so its very time consuming trying to cut it to length a couple of times hence why I'm asking about measuring to try speed it up a length
Do his way of measuring is not very accurate do to most drywall in the corners are not truly plumb do to over mudding or under mudding. Measure wall to wall (without a spacer) roughly were the top of your base will be on the wall for example if its 600mm go to your saw cut your 45 degree cut. Now BEFORE YOU COPE anything take your tape and hook the long point of the 45 and measure out the 600mm and that will be your straight cut. Now you can cope everything out. This works reguardless of any style or profile of base. And just cause your right handed doesnt mean you cant do left copes give it a try may be easier for you. After training no joke, nearly 100 people how to trim 98% of them if they are right handed left copes are easier and left handed people right copes are easier but do what works for you and dont be afraid to try something different
What kind of baseboard material is best for coping and painting over?
I'm confused. Total noob btw. But that joint looked hella loose. Most other coping vids I see have zero gaps. Am I missing something? Are those simply being filled with caulk or something?
Hahaha shoot,
No words
@@PatTheCat lol def not criticizing the work. It was a great cope. I was just curious there was additional work for the final product.
It's a thousand times better than the prof contractors I just paid thousands to do with my floors who just mitered everything and not a single corner looks good lol
@@mcdonamw I don’t know, push it tight? I look at this cope everyday and think, “that looks good.” More people have seen this in my bathroom than anything else in my house lol
And yes, caulked after
@@PatTheCat that makes sense then. I'm sure it looks great.
Great video and well explained, thank you for taking the time to educate others. I will like to see a single tutorial from the mediocre caulking Carpenter making comments down below. William V, craftsman Does not need to caulk anything. When trimming high end homes the baseboards are always going to be very tall and coping is a necessity to a high quality job.
RIGHT?! So much easier to complain than praise! Thanks for watching!
This isn't actually 100% true. But ur not a carpenter... Good try tho. Makes a little sense.
When you are making your cut. What Mark's did you make on the board to make the cut, I just have a craftsman miter, nothing like yours.
Its alot easier to make your cuts with the baseboard standing up on your miterbox than laying flat. Especially with a miterbox like yours. You just flip it upside down to make that straight cut on the cope
I can make a better looking inside corner with a miter cut some cs glue and woodglue
On 6 inch base? That’s impressive! Did you make a video showing us?
Good info, but I almost ALWAYS miter base with this much detail. I usually cut both inside meters at 44 or 44.5 and pinch in the longer runs to the shorter runs.
Detail is when you want to Cope.
Would a dremel be easier?
I tried it and I’ve ruined a few cuts with a dremel. Try a jig saw with a Colins coping foot. Or a coping saw is good.
Watched the whole video, still have no idea what coping is or why you didn’t just join two 45* angles.
They would never line up properly. There are too many inconsistencies and fluctuations on walls & larger base doesn’t help those issues
It’s way faster to cope base and crown using a good jig saw. Just saying.
try an angle grinder with a flap disc... just sayin... melts away like butter
Coping saws are overrated. I just use my multi tool and file. 😎
Why don't you use a sander to cope?
This isn’t that video. This is just one of many methods.
Shia’s twin.
i need a outside cope ???? bye tomorrow on the job Ha really it will look like i know what i'm doing
Sight line man... Always try and place the cope so you looking down it not in to it.
That was terrible looking what a mess you should get some caulk and cover up the bad coup you just spent 10 minutes creating. A waist level table and a clamp might help you out next time.
Andrew Bielinski sounds like you just wasted 10 minutes? Yes? Are you wasting more time reading this? No?
Can a cope be cut on a scroll saw?
No coping . Cut it at a 45 . Then glue the ends and if needed use my pin nailer
John Asaro not 6.5” base!!
I agree with pat you’re not going to get as good of profile match just cutting miters, also coping will more likely maintain a good joint if the wood shrink or expand. I have trimmed a lot of high end homes and have yet to see a perfect drywall corner. Not slamming you John just disagreeing with you.
Good luck finding a true 90 deg corner to just miter it.
@@RyanReskyTrumpeter true but a miter doesn’t have to be at 90 right . We can cut at 89 or 91 etc.
@@jawa6066 for a corner, it'll never be perfect. Thats the reason for the cope cut.
Mind you don't fall in the gap.
duuude... use a side grinder with a 40g sanding blade. It'll make ur life so much easier.... ull learn...
The video isn't on "the best way" or "how to use a grinder and cope" it's how to cope with a Coping saw.
I dont see the advantage of coping? Time consuming, y not just miter saw it.
You better buy painters caulk by the case.
Pallet*
Coping is so not needed and to be honest takes to long. If you must cope then use an angle grinder and flap disk which is so much quicker but to be honest there are so many accurate angle finder tools out there that you can just measure the angle correctly and so accurately that you mitre saw will be doing all the work. Coping is so 90s
Your*
10:20 is not fantastic! Lets not kid ourselves here. That is a messy joint, not slamming you because with practice I'm sure it will get better.
I gave up on life after reading this comment.
I find it easier to use a lot of caulk and just charge the customer extra for it. Saves a lot of frustration. Do I get call backs? No never. Not one customer has ever called me back.
Ha! I have just started using all caulk!
No they didnt call you back because your a hack and wouldnt want you back in the house hackin stuff in and over charging them again. There is no frustration with cutting it correctly. Its an easy instal
come on now that cope was close but not perfect ! you will need to caulk and paint it to make it look better .
It was perfect for me man.
That really doesn’t look good dude. I mean it’s close but I wouldn’t call that tight. If it needs caulking it ain’t tight enough.
IT. ALL. NEEDS. Caulk.
)
Hope you're not charging your clients by the hour!
tauruszuma just my wife ;-)
Lol that's a horrible cope? Were is the fantastic? Seriously bad coping job
Believe me, others I've done are terrible... this was not one of them.
I disagree. I would not accept that work. Low quality joint.
It’s too late for acceptance. You’ll just have to be in agreement.
'that looks fantastic' No that joint looks amateurish at best
No, but your grammar is!
@@PatTheCat I'm so hurt.
@@derekcraig3617 as am I
@@PatTheCat Right, I believe you. That's why you took the time to try and insult me.
@@derekcraig3617 now we’re both sad
Ugh... quality carpentry is attention to details - you have a great career - but check your details - you have the knowledge - use it- and use those same details in everything you do- like editing the video so we aren’t starring at a corner of a window for more than 7 seconds
Clean up your copes!!!
Ugh.... Charlie&Erin Muller I’m not a carpenter. I’m an IT GUY.
SO MUCH EASIER IF YOU COPE THE LEFT SIDE OF THE BOARD! ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE RIGHT HANDED! ANYTHING THAT IS BELOW EYE LEVEL SHOULD BE COPED LEFT! ANYTHING ABOVE EYE LEVEL SHOULD BE COPED RIGHT! IN OTHER WORDS, ANYTHING BELOW EYE LEVEL, YOU SHOULD INSTALL CLOCKWISE! ANYTHING ABOVE EYE LEVEL SHOULD BE INSTALLED COUNTERCLOCKWISE! THAT WAY, ALSO, YOU DON'T HAVE THE END OF THE COPE BLOWING OUT! COMMON SENSE PEOPLE!!!!!!
Can you explain more?
Coping is only for very extreme situations but should not be the norm...it's a waste of time ...45 yrs of experience....
Agreed seems like a huge waste of time when you can just caulk a small gap. If it isnt 45 then just use a starett mitre tool to get the correct angles. So much faster. Time is important when contracting. Quality is as well but I just see this as only marginally better
He is Not very experienced...When you cope always back cut....use a jig saw and a sanding disk on a wiz wheel
This is true, I’m not very experienced. But I did build this entire house in my spare time & made a video on how to cope larger trim that seems to be reaching people who are learning how to do it. -
@@PatTheCat no it looks good....still need caulk....dont waste time coping unless the house value is there...i dont do it on anything under $500k....its all about ratios !!
William A so 650k would make coping worth while? I don’t support this logic. It’s all about the square cut and coping one end. So much faster. & & Caulking is a bad carpenters best friend.
@@PatTheCat yes if you dont know what your doing....very little experience....miters are the quickest for ..No over $350k maybe... a good carpenter can do good miters.....its the fastest
@@Mrcrisis2012 Miters are quicker, and they will do the job if the corner is perfect. But all corners vary, particularly when too much mud is applied during drywall jointing. A good cope cut doesn't care what the angle of the corner is. It will fit perfectly whether it's 30 or 60 degrees. The cut might take longer, but you save time on measuring the angle and then caulking. Ultimately, it's the end result that matters, and coping gives the best result.
copiing is the exception not the rule...very unneccessary most of the time
Cope your hair......just miter...cope huge waste of time...caulk...mine always look perfect !! That's what it's made for...expand and contract and a minimal amount ...caulks not a building.material!!
William A cope on small base when everything is square. This home was a second story addition and not everything is square. I coped because it was the only tool I had & I had plenty of time and not a lot of money for my own home renovation.
@@PatTheCat if its not square...I always check...I ajust the miter...very simple...much faster...and caulk !!
@@Mrcrisis2012 I do carpentry bro. But if You caulk they said You are not pro.
Caulk!!! Not for Carpenters.
@@TheAavelar007 no they are wrong...you use minimal amount of caulk...its not a buidling material...lolol