Vince is a terrific teacher. I love how practice-oriented his explanations are-not just, “This thing is this way,” but “This thing is this way, and for that reason, you can do all this stuff with it!” or, “…for that reason, you have to approach it differently.” His channel should be called Hobby Secrets instead. It’s also fun to watch him demonstrate how quickly and loosely a model can be painted and still look fantastic in the end if you know what you are doing.
When ever I get stuck and need help moving forward you are always there for me. One day I'll meet you at a con and shake your hand to thank you personally
Thank you so much for this series. Every video I watch levels me up just a little more. Your delivery and teaching style is very thorough and easy to follow. Your ability to teach is just as impressive as your minis!
Vincent this video is excellent, I only seen it a week ago and it has already helped me immensely. I've redone the red on my entire black templar army and it looks so much more vibrant. Cheers
Vince, I started thinning my red paints with FW/Liquitex red inks instead of water. It makes a super vibrant and saturated red. Only downside is you don't get much of a glazing effect with it.
@@VinceVenturella yeah man, I don't what I'd do without some of your videos. Experiment, I guess? However I'll still experiment. With this knowledge I have an idea on what to expect. It'll be experimenting with direction, rather than aimless. Although getting lost can be fun, I'm not there yet to do so productively. Thanks again
Awesome tutorial, I was messing with red and this really gave me some great foundation to work off of. Went from a dull red to a ruby popping red pretty fast, thanks!
Had fun with playing with greens and purples last week actually. Video suggestions; facial hair, from 5 o'clock shadow to dwarven pride, and eyebrows. Rashes, pustules, and the like.
God bless Vince. You’re my main Paint / Art / Miniature Sensei since day 2 or 3 maybe. I’ll love everything you put out. Keep it up! For me you’re on of the greatest, if not the greatest. Arigatogozaimashita Sensei Venturella! 🙌🏼🙏🏼❤️
I've been planing to use oils to shade a Bandai Eva 01 model kit. This exploring colors series is so good! I've learn more than what I needed and it's always interesting. In the purple video, using yellow to darken purple was mind blowing.
Amazing, Vince! I feel like I learn so much from your stuff every video. I try and share these as much as I can to my friends who are serious about painting.
I've watched countless ones of your videos, but this one was especially helpful for me. I had to laugh, when you talked about beginners painting red with just a red base coat and then doing a brown wash over this. My first red caped paladins always looked like they took a bath in the swamp because of this. Now I know how to do better. Thanks a lot!
Absolute pleasure to watch your vids. Found you on paint all the minis pod cast through Dan Adam. Been learning a lot from yourself. Thank you. Master of the art. 👍
I’m working on some options to paint a Blood Angels army. I started with shadows using proacryl burnt red, because I though a brown red would make a good color for darker areas. It didn’t turn out how I thought it would and I couldn’t quite articulate as to why. This video has been very informative. I will try some purple instead. Thank you!
Awesome stuff. I totally agree that red is a fun and easy color to paint. It blends and glazes really easily, and I have no issue painting it over black either because of how opaque GW reds are-Mephiston Red in particular.
This is easily my favorite painting series you’ve done. I take away more from these videos than just about anything I’ve watched! Keep up the good work!
Great video! I have recently been learning red the hard way i.e. bumping into all of the walls over the last 6 months for my current army project. This would have saved me a lot of time, and I can second everything in this video! p.s. one of my favourite highlight combos I've found is some warcolor flesh 1 + inktense red.
Hi Vince, reporting back after testing a bunch of my red paints. Two paints are different from what I thought beforehand. Vallejo game ink red is not a neutral red, it is in fact a magenta most likely PV19 and as PV19 goes highly transparant and vibrant. And the other is Blood Angel red contrast who in the bottle looks pretty neutral and dark, but on the model is lighter and has a warm bias. Contrast paints can be pretty different compared to how they look in the bottle and this one is no acception. And a general observation is that most reds Iown have a warm bias (as in leaning towards orange) (both pure pigment ones and blends). The exception being Napthol Crimson ink (PR170) from Liquitex that is a actual cool red without learning stronger towards a magenta. The Red from Kimera is made out of the same pigment, but had a warm bias instead of a cool one. You do have stuff like Khorne red, and many hull reds that are darker but not necessarily cool (although Khorne red is). All of these seem to contain red oxide (most commonly PR101 or PR130) and thus are more opaque. Was searching for a cool red (without looking like a magenta or even purple) and only found one: Napthol Crimson ink. I thought since I have so many reds, that I would have more, but surprisingly no.
I think black would be a fun exploration as well. Though not technically a color it would be cool to see the different things you could do to make the color not flat or boring.
Pyrolle red is Ferrari red! Great colour, non-toxic and one of the most opaque non-cadmium reds. I'm impressed Pro Acryl uses it as I don't think it's one of the cheaper pigments out there.
Vince, I just tried Vallejo “Bloody Red” 72.010 OMG! I have never seen a brighter red, nobody has anything close to it. I tested it on a test card with black and white. Right out of the bottle it covered black and was just as bright as the white box. I give it an A++
Thank you for the video! I always hated shading red with black or brown wash, always wanted to shade red with red but never had the knowledge necessary to creare a good color, and had to rely on pre-mixed. Really want to see other videos like this for other colors
Damn. I love red, but I was always nervous highlighting it and going too orange or too pink. This is SUPER helpful and look forward to applying your teachings on my Kroot!
great video man! Just painted the Deepkin Volturnos helm thingy and I wanted it to blend from dark red to orange. It helped a lot! greetings from Germany
Thanks Vince! I really like this exploration of colors. My mind can't quite register the red + off-white yellow as anything else than pink, but that's fine. ;-) I just need to paint more red! Maybe Jessica Rabbit or something else?
Another fine video. Can’t wait to practice this on my red Orcs. Video suggestion: dummies guide to airbrushing varnished please. Im terrified on screwing up the paintjob or the airbrush (i bought 2 cheap ones to practice with but still lacking the balls and knowledge)
I’ve really taken to using FW sepia to shade down my midtone red to make the base/shadows. I’m gonna have to try purple, keep meaning to but a different project than what I have lined up maybe.
When I bought the Citadel Expert Set (the original Citadel Inks) I got a lot of use out of various inks which were easy to use as washes; but I didn't get glazing until it came to red... When you highlight red you will always go to the pinks or the oranges - if you start with a maroon and highlight with a more scarlet red you're going more orange than the original red... So I was painting one of my Chaos Sorcerors (I had eight in my army at the time) and I was going for the ultramarine/pheonecian purple/scarlet scheme for them, and this one's robes were going to be red... I had shaded in purple ink and highlighted in yellow (hobgoblin orange was the ultimate in transparent paints at the time and I had skipped it entirely, because I wouldn't have noticed the transition if I'd used it) and it looked terrible. Fortunately I had picked up the tip from either the 'Eavy Metal write-up (which used to be at the back of every White Dwarf) or the "How to Paint Citadel Miniatures" (I still want to know how the mottling on the titan on the front cover was done :-) ), and I painted the whole robe with undiluted (far more pigment than necessary) red ink... That was the first miniature I had painted, which I was aware of the older kids being impressed by... not that they admitted being impressed of course; they were older and therefore better :-) I had never really understood how Bronzed Flesh (a "bone" colour with a hint of grey to it at the time) could work until that point - and then I began glazing red ink (thinned, not deliberately; but knowing that I needed to have a wet brush before I started) across the mid-line of the face (cheeks and nose). I have worked my skin-tones that way ever since - starting with a cold, pallid tone and building the blood and heat up in transparent filters. Learning to "glaze" (I didn't really learn, I'm still not sure I have; but I had that tool in my toolbox) with red made my skin-tones stand out among the circle I knew - and I regret the point when Citadel moved to a pink/peach base caucassian skin-tone; because I haven't found as good a base since (bleached bone, ivory...etc. are all warmer)...
An interesting things about the psychology of red is that our eyes actually have the least number of cones for detecting red compared to the rest. However this lack of visibility is what generates the perception of movement in our mind as our brain fills in the blanks, that is why our eyes are drawn to it.
Been running into the matte red effect on the Lava Man I've been working on. It's really weird to watch happen in real time. On the upside, I'm working the hot to a bright yellow/warm white so it ends up working in my favor. I'll have to remember that red glaze trick in the future.
You have to try Andrea Miniatures Red. I'm telling you. I've been searching for a long time and, I have all the brands you've shown here. Andrea is my favorite shade by far. It's not overly orange like so many others. Got the Idea from Flameon's work.
Hey Vince, have you seen Angel Giraldez Red Cloth video? He uses Vallejo Sunny Skintone to highlight. Wondering how you feel about his approach to painting red.
It's a great point, I mentioned the more yellow white, but I should have also mentioned pale/bright Caucasian skin tones which are awesome for highlighting red.
Hi Vince, Amazing videos! There is so much information to absorb and learn in every one of them, And it has helped me alot to progress as a painter! I have one question about shading. A common theme I've seen in the videos is that when it comes to shading, instead of adding just pure black into the mix (or white for tinting) you tend to use the complimentary colors. Like for red this time you use a little bit of green, and for purple you added a little bit of yellow. Would this work as a general base rule when it comes to shading/tinting colors?
Yes, using the complimentary colors is a nice way to produce natural shadows. It's still good to also use something like dark blues or purples or even blacks as well depending on what you want to achieve, but it produces very real shadow tones.
thank you for the informative video. I tried to leave a comment but i don't think it saved. What colors would you suggest using if we were to try and layer and blend with red? Like in how to paint black video? This is really nice what you are doing with the colors.
Well, again, you can use a wide range of colors. Any kind of mid-red is where you start, then you can pick from the shades here to shade down and apply the highlights with red glazes as you saw me do here. The trick is you don't paint every color the same way. Black has different properties and is applied as you saw in that video, but red acts differently as you saw here.
Love these Exploring Color videos, Vince. Can you use a similar highlight technique with an airbrush by spraying white ink (zenithal?) over the red basecoat and then glazing over with white? Or do you prefer this method only brushwork?
I assume you meant spraying over with a red glaze, and yes, 100%, if you watch my videos on highlighting red specifically, this is always the technique I use (though I am often using a warm near white, not specifically white).
So, don’t paint red over black. What would be a good base for it then? I am painting custom space marines and their base color is metallic steel. I air brush it so the shoulder pads often get the steel. What would be a good color/base to paint over the shoulder pads then?
Two options, you can start with a high opacity deep red (like a Hull Red) and build up. Or you can lay down a brighter ivory, buff, bone or similar and then put the red over top.
Thanks as always for the great info. I was wondering about zenithal highlighting with metallics. Would it be beneficial to use a dark metal base and highlight with a silver and then glaze in colors?
You mentioned one you hit red with matte coat, it dulls the red. How do you matte varnish a model and still maintain the rich red color? Even with a light coat ultra matte varnish I lose the richness of the red. Thanks ahead of time.
So I have a few videos on bright red if you look back in the playlist - but the short answer is a thin, highly pigmented red put over a lyer of ivory/white. Generally, you want a few glazes, but that will give you a super red pop even when matte.
I have picked flat red to be my arby's color. I've noticed that sometimes they come out looking sorta burgundy. The more I thin the red and layer and layer.... it looks sorta violet red. It loses some sheen I think? Also if I let it sit on the wet pallete, sometimes it'll come out looking burgundy and the texture looks odd.... If I paint on my hand, the red looks vibrant but on my models it looks kinda dull (I have white primer)
Hey Vince, how does the Monument Pyrole Red compare to The Red from Kimera or Goldens SoFlat Pyrole Red? Are they all roughly interchangeable fire engine reds?
Ok. Back to shadows and highlights. I have an airbrush. Question: should I / can I apply purple/ivory with airbrush and glaze it with red? Or the only right way is to use regular brush to apply purple/ivory and later use airbrush to glaze?
Great content as usual! However, I'm not a fan of the recent addition of music in the background, for me it's just a bit distracting and doesn't bring anything to the video. I liked the more "dry" sort of painting class feel of your previous content. I think you are easily a talented and entertaining enough speaker to keep the viewer's interest in what you are saying and to be honest for me the music lessens the impact of how you use your voice and is just a bit "cheap" / "tacky" (not really, but slightly in that direction). I appreciate you trying to mix up the format, but my vote goes for dropping the music. I appreciate all the time and effort you put into educating and entertaining us Vincent, you are my favourite miniature painting TH-camr easily, thank you very very much!
@Sovrano I am glad I am not the only one who finds the background music distracting. To me it sound like bad 90s synth pop elevator/hotel lobby music and the tempo between Vince’s voice vrs the background music. @Vince maybe try some free use music you would find off Game of Thrones/Lord of the Rings/Conan. Those kinds of tempos should complement your voice. That being said still love the videos.
I have had feedback in both directions on this. It's tough to find good free music in TH-cams library (which you have to use if you want music or you get dinged for sure), I will experiment with it over time.
Hey Vince, I'm trying to highlight Red different than using orange because it shifts the perspective from Red to orangey like you said. However, I'm finding the pale sand, ice yellow undercoat for a red highlight to not be what I envision. The light red is pink ish, and I add red but the highlight gets diminished obviously. Adding more yellow makes it orange. It's frustrating because red isn't like Blue where I can have a medium blue, add cyan (that's technically a different color 1 up on the color wheel like orange from red) and it still seems blue. Or a medium green with a lime highlight and it still looks green... Red feels different/ harder. What can I do? I feel like my only option is to go deep khorne red and highlight with flat Red but that isn't what I originally wanted.
Sp the key is you want a transparent red with something like an intense red ink. You can then put a few coats over ivory and what you will get is something that is very, very bright, but still very red. The key is it takes multiple thin glazes.
Just some more red is really the answer. a few layers of full red will cover it over, but if that isn't working, you can always do a little ivory over the top and then reapply the red.
How can I get less purple-ness in the red? Another coat of red? Or should I use a navy blue instead? I just dont want orange nor a violet red. Not even slight violet you know what I mean?
Another glaze of red will generally bring everything back into line. You can use all those darker or lighter shades and tints and you can always bring them back into red shades because red is so wonderfully transparent.
Do you have any tips for complementary red and green without coming off like a holiday ornament? Seems more difficult than blue and orange to pull off.
So the answer is that you need to desaturate one or both of them. It works best when you have a bright green and a very desaturated red or vice versa (or both, frankly).
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for the reply. I find cool coloured reds aren't too big on the miniature paint ranges, by cold white i imagine white with a bit of blue in it or a super pastel violet.
This is one of the best videos ive seen in a long time, really gave me a lot of useful information that i needed, since i paint red armor on my Ironjawz. I am a beginner painter, and this made me understand the color red so much more, and i will be experimenting alot more now with using greens, purple for shadows etc. Great great video. Ive been binge watching alot of your videos, and you make great guides. Cant wait for more videos about other colors as this helped me alot, and i still have alot to learn when it comes to shadows and highlights.
The key is if you push more into the yellow or even pale Caucasian flesh tone, you will get the brighter red without too much pink, but it's always a balancing act. :)
@@colouredIncognito THey had a crimson set (i've never seen them alone and I think they're disontinued), but either way, I wasn't very impressed with them to be honest.
Hi Vince, Thanks again for these videos about colors! Good to find really practical lessons on these subjects. Altought I still struggle to make "intense" red (dunno if intense is the proper word... I found an example of what I'd like to achieve : www.sciborminiatures.com/pow.php?absol=1&co=i/2016/big/dark_guard_p_04.jpg) I don't even know what red I shoud grab to start with :p
So it looks like a little black as the shadows, maybe some deep purple, then just pushing into yellow/orange in the highlights. Anything from most paint lines would be fine.
Looking at a Pocket Color Wheel from 2002 by The Color Wheel Company and printed in the U.S.A., Vallojo Model Color "Flat Red" which is in Vallejo Starter Set and should probably act as a primary red color looks, well, more flat and darker than 026 Scarlet, 028 Vermillion and 029 Vermillion. I would have judged 028 to be closest to a "true" Red compared the color wheel. The color wheel I have has in no way been sunbleached or anything like that. So is the print on the color wheel too bright to show the "correct" red color, is it the glossyness of the print, is Flat Red chosen because it has less white in it and so is easier to Tint, Tone and Shade or what ? Can the color wheel be trusted, is there a better one or am I just being too picky? :-)
Well, you might be being a little too picky. :) - That being said, keep in mind something like a printed color wheel is always going to be hard to match to exact paints. For example, take any of those reds and paint a few layers over black (so you achieve good opacity), it will still look far darker than the same application over white primer. Paint is ultimately transluscent and getting something to match exactly is usually uncessary. For example, if I was wanting a good middle red with paint, I might pick Flat Red, or 70.926 Red or Warcolours Red 3, or Vallejo Game Ink Red, or Kimera The Red or Pro Acryl Cadmium Red. All of the them are slightly different tones, but they are all close enough I would call all of them "red" (i.e. not Orange Red, or purple red or something else you might get having other colors in there).
@@VinceVenturella Okay, based on your recommendation, I ordered 8 Pro Acryl paints (I chose the rainbow plus Titanium White), they arrived this morning, and I gave the red a try on some Starcadia characters this afternoon. And…holy guacamole!!! Just one thin coat of Pro Acryl red looked better than 7 coats of Vallejo red, and the second thin coat took it to a whole new level! Expect some cookies in the mail soon. 🍪 😁
Vince is a terrific teacher. I love how practice-oriented his explanations are-not just, “This thing is this way,” but “This thing is this way, and for that reason, you can do all this stuff with it!” or, “…for that reason, you have to approach it differently.” His channel should be called Hobby Secrets instead.
It’s also fun to watch him demonstrate how quickly and loosely a model can be painted and still look fantastic in the end if you know what you are doing.
Yes please, go around the colour wheel and any of it’s theories put into practice. Thank you Vince.
More colors will be coming for sure.
I concord, that’s the kind if things no one talks about, but anyone that does not have an art school background needs!
When ever I get stuck and need help moving forward you are always there for me. One day I'll meet you at a con and shake your hand to thank you personally
Thank you so much for this series. Every video I watch levels me up just a little more. Your delivery and teaching style is very thorough and easy to follow. Your ability to teach is just as impressive as your minis!
You're very welcome!
Vincent this video is excellent, I only seen it a week ago and it has already helped me immensely. I've redone the red on my entire black templar army and it looks so much more vibrant. Cheers
"I can't hear you obviously because this is in the past"
Lol.
GLad you enjoyed that.
As someone with absolutely no art background who is getting into this - these videos are incredible! Thank you for your work and high effort!
Glad you like them!
Vince, I started thinning my red paints with FW/Liquitex red inks instead of water. It makes a super vibrant and saturated red. Only downside is you don't get much of a glazing effect with it.
Subscribed. You make me excited to paint when I used to feel overwhelmed and intimidated.
That's awesome to hear. Thank you and glad to help as always. :)
@@VinceVenturella yeah man, I don't what I'd do without some of your videos. Experiment, I guess? However I'll still experiment. With this knowledge I have an idea on what to expect. It'll be experimenting with direction, rather than aimless. Although getting lost can be fun, I'm not there yet to do so productively.
Thanks again
Awesome tutorial, I was messing with red and this really gave me some great foundation to work off of.
Went from a dull red to a ruby popping red pretty fast, thanks!
Glad I could help!
Had fun with playing with greens and purples last week actually.
Video suggestions; facial hair, from 5 o'clock shadow to dwarven pride, and eyebrows.
Rashes, pustules, and the like.
That's a great suggestion! Added to the list.
God bless Vince. You’re my main Paint / Art / Miniature Sensei since day 2 or 3 maybe. I’ll love everything you put out. Keep it up! For me you’re on of the greatest, if not the greatest. Arigatogozaimashita Sensei Venturella! 🙌🏼🙏🏼❤️
I've been planing to use oils to shade a Bandai Eva 01 model kit. This exploring colors series is so good! I've learn more than what I needed and it's always interesting. In the purple video, using yellow to darken purple was mind blowing.
Glad it was helpful! :)
Amazing, Vince! I feel like I learn so much from your stuff every video. I try and share these as much as I can to my friends who are serious about painting.
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
I've watched countless ones of your videos, but this one was especially helpful for me. I had to laugh, when you talked about beginners painting red with just a red base coat and then doing a brown wash over this. My first red caped paladins always looked like they took a bath in the swamp because of this. Now I know how to do better. Thanks a lot!
Glad it was helpful!
That glazing over ivory trick is phenomenal!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Red's ability to catch the eye makes it an excellent support colour for gloves, details, gems, etc.
Absolutely great point, it just draws the eyes.
I'll be watching this video at least three times as I prepare to paint my AdMech. Love this series, Vince!
Always happy to help.
Absolute pleasure to watch your vids. Found you on paint all the minis pod cast through Dan Adam. Been learning a lot from yourself. Thank you. Master of the art. 👍
I will have to pass along my thanks to Dan, and glad the videos are helpful. Always happy to help. :)
I’m working on some options to paint a Blood Angels army. I started with shadows using proacryl burnt red, because I though a brown red would make a good color for darker areas. It didn’t turn out how I thought it would and I couldn’t quite articulate as to why. This video has been very informative. I will try some purple instead. Thank you!
Awesome! Glad to help!
Vince: thank you for our knowledge on blending and painting Red… your a great teacher… thank you…. from Aiken South Carolina.
ALways happy to help. :)
Awesome stuff. I totally agree that red is a fun and easy color to paint. It blends and glazes really easily, and I have no issue painting it over black either because of how opaque GW reds are-Mephiston Red in particular.
Yep, Red is a wonderful color to work with for sure. :)
This is easily my favorite painting series you’ve done. I take away more from these videos than just about anything I’ve watched! Keep up the good work!
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Great video! I have recently been learning red the hard way i.e. bumping into all of the walls over the last 6 months for my current army project. This would have saved me a lot of time, and I can second everything in this video! p.s. one of my favourite highlight combos I've found is some warcolor flesh 1 + inktense red.
Yep, I should have mentioned the flesh highlight, it's a great trick for sure. :)
Hi Vince, reporting back after testing a bunch of my red paints. Two paints are different from what I thought beforehand. Vallejo game ink red is not a neutral red, it is in fact a magenta most likely PV19 and as PV19 goes highly transparant and vibrant. And the other is Blood Angel red contrast who in the bottle looks pretty neutral and dark, but on the model is lighter and has a warm bias. Contrast paints can be pretty different compared to how they look in the bottle and this one is no acception. And a general observation is that most reds Iown have a warm bias (as in leaning towards orange) (both pure pigment ones and blends). The exception being Napthol Crimson ink (PR170) from Liquitex that is a actual cool red without learning stronger towards a magenta. The Red from Kimera is made out of the same pigment, but had a warm bias instead of a cool one. You do have stuff like Khorne red, and many hull reds that are darker but not necessarily cool (although Khorne red is). All of these seem to contain red oxide (most commonly PR101 or PR130) and thus are more opaque. Was searching for a cool red (without looking like a magenta or even purple) and only found one: Napthol Crimson ink. I thought since I have so many reds, that I would have more, but surprisingly no.
Very interesting.
I think black would be a fun exploration as well. Though not technically a color it would be cool to see the different things you could do to make the color not flat or boring.
Excellent guidance on this; will practice this today in some extended Saturday paint time 👍🏻. Thank you!
Awesome, hope it all went well. :)
Vince, Vallejo came out with a new game color. Bloody Red 72.010 my new favorite.
I'll have to give it a try.
Pyrolle red is Ferrari red! Great colour, non-toxic and one of the most opaque non-cadmium reds. I'm impressed Pro Acryl uses it as I don't think it's one of the cheaper pigments out there.
GIBBET, YA GIT! GRAB DA WAR WAGON AN' SOM' BRUSHSES AN' GIT OVER 'ERE! DEESE HUMIES GOT SOMEFINK RIGHT FER A CHANGE!
Awesome, I love it when I learn something from this and that is an awesome fact to know (and also why I love this color so much).
These videos are teaching me so much……thank you!
Vince, I just tried Vallejo “Bloody Red” 72.010 OMG!
I have never seen a brighter red, nobody has anything close to it.
I tested it on a test card with black and white. Right out of the bottle it covered black and was just as bright as the white box.
I give it an A++
I'll have to check it out, I don't think I've ever used the color.
Really enjoying these colour theory and practical examples videos, very informative and useful
Excellent, happy to help as always.
I wished I watched this before painting my admech. I will put it into practice next time I paint red. Great explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
Eek I love this colour series. I get colour more now. It like the stuff I subconsciously think about or have noticed is something more coherent now.
Wonderful, always happy to help.
I'm especially impressed with using an ivory color and a glaze (on the rats arm) for such a strong effect.
Yeah, it's how you get those strong reds.
@@VinceVenturella I'm still beating my head against how to glaze properly. It looks so easy.
this is so good. I wish i watched this series before buyn 40 different paints.
Thank you for the video! I always hated shading red with black or brown wash, always wanted to shade red with red but never had the knowledge necessary to creare a good color, and had to rely on pre-mixed. Really want to see other videos like this for other colors
So I have several other videos in the playlist, so far I also did Green and Blue. :)
Damn. I love red, but I was always nervous highlighting it and going too orange or too pink. This is SUPER helpful and look forward to applying your teachings on my Kroot!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
The entire time watching this I keep hearing Chiwetel Ejiofor exclaiming “RED is the color of sex, not BURGUNDY!”😂
Great tutorial as usual dude:)
That's a missed opportunity for that quote. :)
Exploring Colors - Red. Part 1 in a 1,658,375 Part series.
Pretty much lol
Yeah, this one can run for a while.
About to paint a 1990’s Ral Partha Raistlin figure. Watched this since he’s like 90% red!
I'm gonna say it and it may be controversial, but, Raistlin did nothing wrong.
lol. Best character in Dragonlance IMO.
Cheers Vince, might finally be able to find a highlight for my Flesh Tearers that I don't immediately hate!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
great video man! Just painted the Deepkin Volturnos helm thingy and I wanted it to blend from dark red to orange. It helped a lot! greetings from Germany
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Thanks Vince! I really like this exploration of colors. My mind can't quite register the red + off-white yellow as anything else than pink, but that's fine. ;-) I just need to paint more red! Maybe Jessica Rabbit or something else?
Sounds like an awesome way to explore the color. :)
Another fine video. Can’t wait to practice this on my red Orcs.
Video suggestion: dummies guide to airbrushing varnished please. Im terrified on screwing up the paintjob or the airbrush (i bought 2 cheap ones to practice with but still lacking the balls and knowledge)
Yep, I have a sort of all inclusive varnish video planned for sometime in the future.
I’ve really taken to using FW sepia to shade down my midtone red to make the base/shadows. I’m gonna have to try purple, keep meaning to but a different project than what I have lined up maybe.
Yeah, purple can be a great option to get a more rich red, it's worth a try. :)
When I bought the Citadel Expert Set (the original Citadel Inks) I got a lot of use out of various inks which were easy to use as washes; but I didn't get glazing until it came to red...
When you highlight red you will always go to the pinks or the oranges - if you start with a maroon and highlight with a more scarlet red you're going more orange than the original red... So I was painting one of my Chaos Sorcerors (I had eight in my army at the time) and I was going for the ultramarine/pheonecian purple/scarlet scheme for them, and this one's robes were going to be red... I had shaded in purple ink and highlighted in yellow (hobgoblin orange was the ultimate in transparent paints at the time and I had skipped it entirely, because I wouldn't have noticed the transition if I'd used it) and it looked terrible. Fortunately I had picked up the tip from either the 'Eavy Metal write-up (which used to be at the back of every White Dwarf) or the "How to Paint Citadel Miniatures" (I still want to know how the mottling on the titan on the front cover was done :-) ), and I painted the whole robe with undiluted (far more pigment than necessary) red ink... That was the first miniature I had painted, which I was aware of the older kids being impressed by... not that they admitted being impressed of course; they were older and therefore better :-)
I had never really understood how Bronzed Flesh (a "bone" colour with a hint of grey to it at the time) could work until that point - and then I began glazing red ink (thinned, not deliberately; but knowing that I needed to have a wet brush before I started) across the mid-line of the face (cheeks and nose). I have worked my skin-tones that way ever since - starting with a cold, pallid tone and building the blood and heat up in transparent filters. Learning to "glaze" (I didn't really learn, I'm still not sure I have; but I had that tool in my toolbox) with red made my skin-tones stand out among the circle I knew - and I regret the point when Citadel moved to a pink/peach base caucassian skin-tone; because I haven't found as good a base since (bleached bone, ivory...etc. are all warmer)...
That's awesome, sounds like the definition of a happy accident.
An interesting things about the psychology of red is that our eyes actually have the least number of cones for detecting red compared to the rest. However this lack of visibility is what generates the perception of movement in our mind as our brain fills in the blanks, that is why our eyes are drawn to it.
That's super cool, I had no idea, but that totally makes sense. :)
Been running into the matte red effect on the Lava Man I've been working on. It's really weird to watch happen in real time. On the upside, I'm working the hot to a bright yellow/warm white so it ends up working in my favor. I'll have to remember that red glaze trick in the future.
Yeah, it's a funny effect how much the shine on red matters, but yes, you can use other colors to still draw the eye and create the brightness.
I always follow one of your older guides for a quick red. Burnt umber with a bone highlight...then spray the $#@% out of it with Ink!!
:D
It's a solid technique for sure. :)
You have to try Andrea Miniatures Red. I'm telling you. I've been searching for a long time and, I have all the brands you've shown here. Andrea is my favorite shade by far. It's not overly orange like so many others. Got the Idea from Flameon's work.
Good to know, not as easy to get Andrea over here, but I will see if I can get my hands on some.
Ebay, 35 bucks
Mr. Vince, thank you for the video. Can you tell us what brush you are using? Is it a workhorse brush like a generic synthetic?
This was just a cheap synthetic that I got in a multi-pack. :)
Hey Vince, have you seen Angel Giraldez Red Cloth video? He uses Vallejo Sunny Skintone to highlight. Wondering how you feel about his approach to painting red.
It's a great point, I mentioned the more yellow white, but I should have also mentioned pale/bright Caucasian skin tones which are awesome for highlighting red.
Hi Vince, Amazing videos! There is so much information to absorb and learn in every one of them, And it has helped me alot to progress as a painter!
I have one question about shading. A common theme I've seen in the videos is that when it comes to shading, instead of adding just pure black into the mix (or white for tinting) you tend to use the complimentary colors. Like for red this time you use a little bit of green, and for purple you added a little bit of yellow. Would this work as a general base rule when it comes to shading/tinting colors?
Yes, using the complimentary colors is a nice way to produce natural shadows. It's still good to also use something like dark blues or purples or even blacks as well depending on what you want to achieve, but it produces very real shadow tones.
I prime my minis black first, would a quick dry brush of white over what will be base coated red work?
Absolutely, I would actually recommend a warm white like an ivory, but it will do a lot to help.
Vince Venturella Thank you so much for replying, you and dr Faust have really helped me out a lot.
thank you for the informative video. I tried to leave a comment but i don't think it saved. What colors would you suggest using if we were to try and layer and blend with red? Like in how to paint black video? This is really nice what you are doing with the colors.
Well, again, you can use a wide range of colors. Any kind of mid-red is where you start, then you can pick from the shades here to shade down and apply the highlights with red glazes as you saw me do here.
The trick is you don't paint every color the same way. Black has different properties and is applied as you saw in that video, but red acts differently as you saw here.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you very much. I am just trying to study up before Istart my last two models in this set.
Great video! Wish I knew all this before submitting my Blood Angel to the PMP :)
What red ink do you recommend? Is the Daler Rowney FW ink any good?
Yep, either the Daler Rowney FW Red ink (their Red Earth is awesome for deep/brown/red as well) or Vallejo Game Ink Red - it's SO intense.
@@VinceVenturella Awesome, thanks!
Love these Exploring Color videos, Vince. Can you use a similar highlight technique with an airbrush by spraying white ink (zenithal?) over the red basecoat and then glazing over with white? Or do you prefer this method only brushwork?
I assume you meant spraying over with a red glaze, and yes, 100%, if you watch my videos on highlighting red specifically, this is always the technique I use (though I am often using a warm near white, not specifically white).
@@VinceVenturella yep, I meant red glaze lol. Follow up question - why use near white as opposed to specifically white?
@@kofmanmi Cold white turns red glazes pink, a near warm white stays more red and has more brightness because of the inclusio of yellow.
@@VinceVenturella makes sense
So, don’t paint red over black. What would be a good base for it then? I am painting custom space marines and their base color is metallic steel. I air brush it so the shoulder pads often get the steel. What would be a good color/base to paint over the shoulder pads then?
Two options, you can start with a high opacity deep red (like a Hull Red) and build up. Or you can lay down a brighter ivory, buff, bone or similar and then put the red over top.
I like the music in the background
Thanks, it's gotten some mixed reviews, so I am glad it resonated with you.
Thanks as always for the great info. I was wondering about zenithal highlighting with metallics. Would it be beneficial to use a dark metal base and highlight with a silver and then glaze in colors?
Yep, I like to go from steel with a little black ink to pure silver. Then red over the top.
Surprised you didnt talk about undercoat highlighting with metallic gold in conjunction with a red glaze.
I had talked about it separately in the colored metallics video, but you are right, you can get some great tones from that.
You mentioned one you hit red with matte coat, it dulls the red. How do you matte varnish a model and still maintain the rich red color? Even with a light coat ultra matte varnish I lose the richness of the red. Thanks ahead of time.
So I have a few videos on bright red if you look back in the playlist - but the short answer is a thin, highly pigmented red put over a lyer of ivory/white. Generally, you want a few glazes, but that will give you a super red pop even when matte.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks Vince. As always, you do a great of explaining and helping.
I have picked flat red to be my arby's color.
I've noticed that sometimes they come out looking sorta burgundy.
The more I thin the red and layer and layer.... it looks sorta violet red. It loses some sheen I think? Also if I let it sit on the wet pallete, sometimes it'll come out looking burgundy and the texture looks odd....
If I paint on my hand, the red looks vibrant but on my models it looks kinda dull (I have white primer)
That's very strange, what is the paint being used, I can't say I've seen that exact effect.
@@VinceVenturella Vallejo model color flat white. It's only when it gets really watered down after sitting for a few days (usually)
@@LoftOfTheUniverse I meant the red, but my gess would be something is breaking down in the medium with too much solvent.
"Step one: Don't paint red over black."
Oh, so that's my problem, solved in the first three minutes. Thank you!!
Happy to help!
Hey Vince, how does the Monument Pyrole Red compare to The Red from Kimera or Goldens SoFlat Pyrole Red? Are they all roughly interchangeable fire engine reds?
All pretty similar single pigment reds, though they utilize slightly different pigments
Ok. Back to shadows and highlights. I have an airbrush. Question: should I / can I apply purple/ivory with airbrush and glaze it with red? Or the only right way is to use regular brush to apply purple/ivory and later use airbrush to glaze?
I actually prefer it with the airbrush. It just makes it more smooth for the later glaze.
@@VinceVenturella when I want to glaze with airbrush should the paint be in the same consistency as for normal glazing with brush?
@@dmitrysuprunov9780 Generally yes, for glazing with inks, I usually go 8 or 10 to 1 (thinner to ink)
@@VinceVenturella inks? Should I use inks only for airbrush glazing? May I use normal paints (like Vallejo Model/Game air)?
@@dmitrysuprunov9780 I like glazing with inks due to the intensity and transparency, but you can do the same with paint.
Would you ever prime in a sap green as your base then zenithal highlight over that for red? I’ve got a 3D printed demon I want to do in red.
Absolutely that would work.
How do you like the Nocturna paints in general? I'm curious if you've tried the purple set yet.
I like them, I have the purple set as well and I love it, there are few ranges of paints that have such a diffusion of purples tones.
Great content as usual! However, I'm not a fan of the recent addition of music in the background, for me it's just a bit distracting and doesn't bring anything to the video. I liked the more "dry" sort of painting class feel of your previous content. I think you are easily a talented and entertaining enough speaker to keep the viewer's interest in what you are saying and to be honest for me the music lessens the impact of how you use your voice and is just a bit "cheap" / "tacky" (not really, but slightly in that direction). I appreciate you trying to mix up the format, but my vote goes for dropping the music. I appreciate all the time and effort you put into educating and entertaining us Vincent, you are my favourite miniature painting TH-camr easily, thank you very very much!
There was music?
I'd disagree, I'm ok with the music. Its about the right volume, any louder and it would be distracting, but as it is is fine.
Agree with the gratitude for Your time and effort - so often I can put what I learn to immediate use.
@Sovrano I am glad I am not the only one who finds the background music distracting. To me it sound like bad 90s synth pop elevator/hotel lobby music and the tempo between Vince’s voice vrs the background music. @Vince maybe try some free use music you would find off Game of Thrones/Lord of the Rings/Conan. Those kinds of tempos should complement your voice. That being said still love the videos.
I have had feedback in both directions on this. It's tough to find good free music in TH-cams library (which you have to use if you want music or you get dinged for sure), I will experiment with it over time.
Hey ! Thanks for this video, yet i have a question ; what would be the red you use as a base in the vallejo and gw brand?
Couldn't say for GW, but for Vallejo, just good old 07.926 Red or 70.957 Flat Red, both are excellent bases.
Hey Vince, I'm trying to highlight Red different than using orange because it shifts the perspective from Red to orangey like you said. However, I'm finding the pale sand, ice yellow undercoat for a red highlight to not be what I envision. The light red is pink ish, and I add red but the highlight gets diminished obviously. Adding more yellow makes it orange. It's frustrating because red isn't like Blue where I can have a medium blue, add cyan (that's technically a different color 1 up on the color wheel like orange from red) and it still seems blue. Or a medium green with a lime highlight and it still looks green... Red feels different/ harder. What can I do? I feel like my only option is to go deep khorne red and highlight with flat Red but that isn't what I originally wanted.
Sp the key is you want a transparent red with something like an intense red ink. You can then put a few coats over ivory and what you will get is something that is very, very bright, but still very red. The key is it takes multiple thin glazes.
@@VinceVenturella I see. I'll try this. Do you recommend any inks or can I use a Vallejo I already have but watered down?
@@LoftOfTheUniverse Vallejo Game Ink Red is one of my favorites for this.
How do you cover up mistakes, say getting some black where red was and should be, with a color as transparent as red?
Just some more red is really the answer. a few layers of full red will cover it over, but if that isn't working, you can always do a little ivory over the top and then reapply the red.
How can I get less purple-ness in the red? Another coat of red? Or should I use a navy blue instead? I just dont want orange nor a violet red. Not even slight violet you know what I mean?
Another glaze of red will generally bring everything back into line. You can use all those darker or lighter shades and tints and you can always bring them back into red shades because red is so wonderfully transparent.
Do you have any tips for complementary red and green without coming off like a holiday ornament? Seems more difficult than blue and orange to pull off.
So the answer is that you need to desaturate one or both of them. It works best when you have a bright green and a very desaturated red or vice versa (or both, frankly).
@@VinceVenturella Thanks! I was considering a desaturated red with bright green OSL.
what would you use for highlighting a cool red colour? aka red with a blue bias
I would lay down a cold white and then glaze red over the top of it. The cold white will tint the normal red from underneath.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for the reply. I find cool coloured reds aren't too big on the miniature paint ranges, by cold white i imagine white with a bit of blue in it or a super pastel violet.
Hey Vince. With red paint being so transparent, do you think there's much need to ever use a red ink?
Yes, I actually prefer red ink in many cases, as it ups the pigment and intensity and brightness while adding even more transparency for glazing.
This is one of the best videos ive seen in a long time, really gave me a lot of useful information that i needed, since i paint red armor on my Ironjawz. I am a beginner painter, and this made me understand the color red so much more, and i will be experimenting alot more now with using greens, purple for shadows etc. Great great video. Ive been binge watching alot of your videos, and you make great guides. Cant wait for more videos about other colors as this helped me alot, and i still have alot to learn when it comes to shadows and highlights.
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
My brain really had problems processing the contextual difference of "red" and "rat" up to the "rat glaze"
Amazing.
Got a new phone, new account, rewatching same videos giving you more likes lol
Well, it's deeply appreciated. ;)
Do a "exploring colors purple" please!
Purple is coming, don't worry. :)
How would you achieve cold highlights on red?
Generally, you use a white-blue and push into the pink.
You say mixing the red with white gives a pink, but the one mixed with ice yellow just looks like a slightly darker pink, lol.
The key is if you push more into the yellow or even pale Caucasian flesh tone, you will get the brighter red without too much pink, but it's always a balancing act. :)
Thanks alot!
Any suggestions for good wine red colours?
There is a good range of crimson colors in the AK range, I also like several of the off-red tones in Pro Acryl for sure.
Thanks for the reply.
Are the nocturna paints only available in sets?
@@colouredIncognito THey had a crimson set (i've never seen them alone and I think they're disontinued), but either way, I wasn't very impressed with them to be honest.
@@VinceVenturellaany recommendations for same colour paints?
I used them and really love the colours, but not the paints
Challenge. Buy a miniature a week and paint it based on each video on this channel.
It would keep you busy for a while. :)
Hi Vince,
Thanks again for these videos about colors! Good to find really practical lessons on these subjects.
Altought I still struggle to make "intense" red
(dunno if intense is the proper word... I found an example of what I'd like to achieve : www.sciborminiatures.com/pow.php?absol=1&co=i/2016/big/dark_guard_p_04.jpg)
I don't even know what red I shoud grab to start with :p
So it looks like a little black as the shadows, maybe some deep purple, then just pushing into yellow/orange in the highlights. Anything from most paint lines would be fine.
Red means life... except when leaves die and turn red before they fall! LOL
You got me there
The famous red dress in Schlinder's List
Yep, that red draws the eye for sure.
Looking at a Pocket Color Wheel from 2002 by The Color Wheel Company and printed in the U.S.A., Vallojo Model Color "Flat Red" which is in Vallejo Starter Set and should probably act as a primary red color looks, well, more flat and darker than 026 Scarlet, 028 Vermillion and 029 Vermillion.
I would have judged 028 to be closest to a "true" Red compared the color wheel. The color wheel I have has in no way been sunbleached or anything like that.
So is the print on the color wheel too bright to show the "correct" red color, is it the glossyness of the print, is Flat Red chosen because it has less white in it and so is easier to Tint, Tone and Shade or what ?
Can the color wheel be trusted, is there a better one or am I just being too picky?
:-)
Well, you might be being a little too picky. :) - That being said, keep in mind something like a printed color wheel is always going to be hard to match to exact paints. For example, take any of those reds and paint a few layers over black (so you achieve good opacity), it will still look far darker than the same application over white primer. Paint is ultimately transluscent and getting something to match exactly is usually uncessary. For example, if I was wanting a good middle red with paint, I might pick Flat Red, or 70.926 Red or Warcolours Red 3, or Vallejo Game Ink Red, or Kimera The Red or Pro Acryl Cadmium Red. All of the them are slightly different tones, but they are all close enough I would call all of them "red" (i.e. not Orange Red, or purple red or something else you might get having other colors in there).
What are you doing? Go to sleep!
Scheduling videos is a thing. ;)
@@VinceVenturella dude, youre the best! Dont listen to me.
Any time is a good time for a Vince Venturella vid.
Why does it take 7 coats of Vallejo Flat Red to cover a gray primer? (And it still looks splotchy!) Should I give up on that and switch to Pro Acryl?
Yes, yes you should. :)
@@VinceVenturella Okay, based on your recommendation, I ordered 8 Pro Acryl paints (I chose the rainbow plus Titanium White), they arrived this morning, and I gave the red a try on some Starcadia characters this afternoon. And…holy guacamole!!! Just one thin coat of Pro Acryl red looked better than 7 coats of Vallejo red, and the second thin coat took it to a whole new level! Expect some cookies in the mail soon. 🍪 😁