As a professional in electronics assembly, I think your workmanship is pretty top notch. Appreciate the Caravan Palace in the soundtrack too. Keep up the good work my friend. I'm currently building my own 3kW induction heater as well. By the looks of it, I think I've derated my components WAY too much. Just ordered some 170A mosfets, lol.
Nice job on the video and the project. You now have a power supply big enough to light up half of New Zealand & an induction heater big enough to melt half of New Zealand! Thanks for sharing!
You took a compact high density supply and put it in a much larger box. Fair enough, enjoyed the video, but the title is stretching it a bit. Will you be protecting the heater pcb's and can yours be paralleled? I will be measuring tank frequency with an esp32, plan is to allow switching extra parallel capacitors for tuning.
The big brother unit is going to be epic! So glad someone is finally showing us the details on DIYing a more useful 3kW size. Hoping you will eventually put your two 3kW power supplies in parallel and design a 6kW deluxe unit for serious work. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
My god now you are talking. Massive grunt. I make knifes for a hobby and am looking at making my own steel. Coke and Coal are not good options for knife makers today and gas has heat but it is EVERYWHERE when the forge is on high fire. I want to explore other options. I do not know enough about induction heating yet but I am watching everything posted so far to get my head around it. Thank you for the information posted so far, It is a huge eye opener.
u dont need to waste money and space on secondary power supply just to power the relay and fan. just add buck converter or u can just use ac fan and bridge rectifier to power the relay.
Cool video. Looks fun, I like the tools you use. N flyback diode, had never heard of that til you brought it up. I believe I saw that on a bmw's car battery (they short all the time n actually ruin batteries and starters lol) I didn't see the Psu controller or chassis ground in the schematic/diagram you made in the video. 🤔
this thing is sick! i wonder if the cheap r4850s are an artifact of tpg's unfortunate investment in huawei gear just before australia banned their use.
I have a 150v/500A/75kW DC-DC converter on the drawing board (inspired by a battery/volt/amp/power meter I found on eBay for $40 with those max ratings). Runs on 120v lipo batteries since I don't have space for a generator in my apartment living room and even the 100A mains not even close to enough. Can be controlled anywhere from 12V 7A to the max (already have a 30V/10A on the bench so don't need to turn down into that territory). Water cooled and not sure of the total cost but guessing maybe $10k in parts, so gonna be a few years before I get around to building it unless those stimulus checks keep coming. 75kW would make a nice induction heater (molten anvils and manhole covers anyone?) or jacob's ladder that can stretch arcs 8 feet or a 6-foot spark for a plasma speaker that's louder than a rock concert (~90% modulated). I'm sure something else will pop into my head at some point. The control chip is a ltc3779, and in the datasheet of that it basically shows people how to design one if they can do algebra and basic things like ohm's law and how to size a heat sink.
@@Schematix gonna be awhile just found a meter that does 1000v/1000A though dunno if it's safe to do 1MW in my living room, even if I could find an efficient way to series 7x 143v/1000A converters (without inverting it to AC and using an isolation transformer and converting it back to DC like most common isolated converters). 30-foot sparks in a room that only 20 feet in the largest dimension is probably a bad idea anyway. 150kW/12-foot sparks seems doable though, if I move most of the furniture to the bedroom (and probably build a faraday cage so the RF from it doesn't fry electronics in the whole building or start hidden fires from induction-heated nails).
Great video and amazing project! I'm looking at this and wondering just how big of a leep it would be to an induction based forge capable of smelting enough steel to make machine bases.... I dont think even our 13 amp wall outlets would provide enough power, I think it would take an electrician installing a dedicated 40 AMP 240 or 400 volt circuit here in the UK and I'm not sure if that's feasible beyond providing power for electric cookers & heating etc. Even if it is feasible, I'm not sure if a 400 volt AC, 40 amp outlet would be enough to melt enough steel to make a machine base. If it is, then the next problem would be the induction circuit and then the crucible....obviously lifting a crucible that big, containing enough molten metal to make a machine base would be impossible by hand, so an electric hoist would be required... What a challenge though.... Thanks for your inspiring work and for providing all the plans and schematics!
It would depend on how big of a machine base we're talking about, but for something relatively small like a bridgeport mill, you would need a crazy amount of energy just to heat up the metal(eg. ~300000000 joules).That's for an ideal furnace with no losses(which is not gonna happen in reality). If you were running 20kw(400V at 50A), it would still take several hours. Basically, it would be really expensive, and a pain in the ass to even get access to that level of power.
It sure would be nice if you provided links to your pcbs that go right to your sponsor’s website for viewer convenience. I use a phone for watching TH-cam and browsing the web, it’s hard to see which files I need through some of your links as they’re shrunken and won’t expand for viewing. I’d like to build the 3000W induction heater and if there was a link to buy that pcb I would have already ordered it.
Hello! Perfect solution! I also repeated it and did it. Please tell me how the current strength (blue diode) is regulated without load? Everything is clear with voltage, but I can’t understand how to solve with current strength? I need to see the current before the product starts heating. Thank you in advance.
As a newbie i have a question. This power supply is for ac 50/60 Hz 120v and 240v. Does it mean that the magnetic inductor you built can't run from a dc battery?
The input to the power supply is AC 50/60 Hz at 120 or 240 volts, and it outputs DC. The input to the induction heater will be DC, which is good, but your battery has a fixed voltage, and some sort of current limits. You’ll have to look at the specs for the heater and battery to see if, and how long it should run. My guess is it won’t run as long as you like, and will tear the hell out of your battery. Let me know if you try it!
Awesome video thanks Bro from over the pond. I recently purchased an electric forklift with a 48V 615CCA lead acid battery but no charger. I was thinking of making a mains rectified capacitive battery charger using the old school oil filled aircond capacitors linked in parallel but all of the information I have come across is very old which makes me think it is unsafe. Do you have any ideas about this and if it is possible, and if so do you think it would make for an informative video? Cheers H
I just check out eBay and found that this power supply went through the roof in price. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Am looking forward to the monster induction heater you showed on the channel. Nice work fella too.
what if you reduce the diameter of the coil and increase the number of turns. I looking to increase the heating area to heat up water not meld steel.. great work...
I want to build this supply. I’m already collecting components for you 1.4 induction heater. I tried to obtain the can use controller specified in the power supply component list. The link does not work? Also the metal enclosure you used…is that available. It seems very professional to not be available. Please advise & great projects!!!
I bought a cheap Amazon special arc welder for this very test(haven't tried it yet). The issue is most of these welders don't have a very high load voltage. ~30VDC it seems in most cases.
Hello sir, Is there any calculation of the copper pipe coil to know how much turns en diameter off the Heating Coil? Thanks in advance, love the videos. Greetings Sven
Can the Induction heater work with a single loop of copper pipe? I'm thinking heat treatment of blade edges using pipes bent to the shape of the blade.
@@johnconrad5487 Sorry for being unclear, I was asking if THIS induction heater could handle such low impedances. I am aware these devices do exist, but they can be quite expensive for "twice a year" hobby purposes.
I have a linear RF amplifier running on an Eltek Flatpak 2. It is doing a fine job but I can't have the PS inside the amp case . The HuaWei supply looks a lot shorter in length and likely to fit but the turbine fan sound is a show stopper. Did you manage to silence the fan at all ?
hey the curent amp ajuster has a 5v power suply.. the amp volt metre can take 5v and the relay can take 5 volts to power them..why are we puting a 12v power supply in this? the answer is the fan is 12v right?..why not use a 5v fan? in any case the power suply has its own fan and it heat sinks out the aluminium sides if we are going to encase it these sides should touch the aluminium case for heat disapation and a flow through pathe should be created for the stock air intake and out let...i cant see a need for a dc on of switch/relay when we can turn it on and of at the mains or use a mains switch at ac in..if you run it with no load your just creating heat....all these 5 volts could be supplyed with a small 5volt ac to dc supply or tap into the power supply for all like you did with the amp/volt adjuster.why are we using a shunt rated for 50 amps? it can go higher than 53.5 amps right? shunts run permanantly under rated i read can get hot..this says wikipedia can cause the shunt to read inacurate and with higher tempratures that aneal the metal they can be permanantly damaged...im a lerner here so dont be scared to educate me.what iv said above is not from electrical know how.i was just looking at this with what i thaught was common sense...i also want to know if the shunt seller saying its an ac shunt dosent matter when using it on a dc line and i want to know why we use the shunt on the negative ?
I need to build a power supply like this, using Dell server 100amp PSUs, would like to run 2 to get double amperage, can they be run in series or parallel to achieve this? Would be a good video, I need a 5-17.5 DCV 200amp power supply to test car audio equipment
Hola, gracias, buen vídeo. ¿Puedes ayudarme a una pregunta ó información sobre tu fuente de alimentación? Quisiera saber el esquema electrónico de la pcb controladora de voltaje y corriente. Para asi comprar los componentes electrónicos en mi país y montarla en un pcb ó protoboard. ¿Tu podrías pasarme el esquema de ese pcb controlador de voltaje y corriente? Gracias.
10 years from now: Amon: Next Video Im going to show you how to build a power supply system to power my next project. Me: yeah that'll be cool Amon: Ok so what you need for this build is a Large High Capacity and High Flow River, I'm Going to use the Waikato River but I've scaled the system so you can use what's available. Me: What is hell is he Building for his next project? Amon: This is the new and Improved Telsa Model 7. Ahh Right. makes sense.
the schematic is incorrect. he does his very often. either incorrect schematic or partial. Dont know why he does this. after all anyone attempting to make one of these will just take his list of parts and will know how to assemble it.
Great video and project. Nest time please don't make the music so loud. I know I could turn my speakers down but then I would have to keep turning it up when you speak. As a matter of fact I prefer your older videos where you talked there was no music. Most of us that watch your video are older than children and have a better attention span and do not need to be entertained with music.
So basically (unless you upgrade the input module and plug as you (very briefly) mentioned, you're only going to be actually getting about 2000 watts maximum out from this power supply instead of "over 3000" as implied by the video title, because of the 10 amp input fuse and terminal rating. You might should have clarified this fact a bit further, because there is already SO MANY people here on TH-cam making devices that claim to put out more power than what is being put into them, (and we all (should) be aware enough of the basic laws of physics to know that's not really possible irl), therefore those kinds of videos are prob. making some lesser knowledgable people build those things and then causing a potential fire hazard at the very least by potentially overloading such devices... And you definitely don't want to be misleading anyone and causing any unsafe conditions for any total novice watching this! (Not that very many average people even can ever find such a high power output cell tower PSU like that one you have to begin with), but so I'm sure you get what I'm trying to say here; just be more diligent(sp?) to clarify limitations like that in the future, because you don't wanna be causing anyone watching your content to ever get into any unsafe situations because of an (unmentioned, unclarified, or unexplained) "design limitation" or whatever!... Cool video and build overall though, I certainly wish I could find (OR even fully understand how to actually build myself) a super high power output PSU like that one you used here! (That thing was prob. pretty expensive to buy, huh?!)(Where did you find it/how did you acquire it?) I wanted to also see this power supply actually working and powering that induction heater to melt or heat up something, that would've been really cool!
All the AC connections are safely isolated inside the metal chassis. So unless you're Casper the friendly ghost with the ability to pass through a 2mm metal alloy enclosure. I think it's fair to say you're safe
Well there Mr. Safety Genius. When can we expect you to put a video out of a build like this one, But with proper connections? I bet we can't. This guy has probably forgotten more about electronics than you will ever know. And his risk assessment seems just fine to me. Considering the voltage and amperage of each connection.
@@prospectorphil4764 He didn't say to fully follow his instructions just mind your own safety... I'm sure he himself also doesn't want to get electrecuted.
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As a professional in electronics assembly, I think your workmanship is pretty top notch. Appreciate the Caravan Palace in the soundtrack too. Keep up the good work my friend. I'm currently building my own 3kW induction heater as well. By the looks of it, I think I've derated my components WAY too much. Just ordered some 170A mosfets, lol.
This has gotta be one of the best DIY power supplies I’ve seen anywhere. Great job 👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
this induction heater series is fuckning awesome, continue it, I love it!
I'm glad you're enjoying the series. Make sure you watch to the end of the video for a sneak peak of what's coming in the future 😉
@@Schematix oh my god, I cant wait to see that beast in action, I am working on my own 2,5kW heater too, but parts take a long to arrive
Nice job on the video and the project.
You now have a power supply big enough to light up half of New Zealand & an induction heater big enough to melt half of New Zealand!
Thanks for sharing!
You took a compact high density supply and put it in a much larger box. Fair enough, enjoyed the video, but the title is stretching it a bit.
Will you be protecting the heater pcb's and can yours be paralleled?
I will be measuring tank frequency with an esp32, plan is to allow switching extra parallel capacitors for tuning.
A very neat professional design and build
Been waiting for this one since you uploaded the huawei taobao buy and hack. Thanks!
Great Project...look forward to the next one!
The big brother unit is going to be epic! So glad someone is finally showing us the details on DIYing a more useful 3kW size. Hoping you will eventually put your two 3kW power supplies in parallel and design a 6kW deluxe unit for serious work. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
My god now you are talking. Massive grunt. I make knifes for a hobby and am looking at making my own steel. Coke and Coal are not good options for knife makers today and gas has heat but it is EVERYWHERE when the forge is on high fire. I want to explore other options. I do not know enough about induction heating yet but I am watching everything posted so far to get my head around it. Thank you for the information posted so far, It is a huge eye opener.
Excellent
Love your work, seen all your videos and regularly following you, plz also make a 12 to 48 volt 20 to 50 amps tubular battery charger 🌷🌷
u dont need to waste money and space on secondary power supply just to power the relay and fan. just add buck converter or u can just use ac fan and bridge rectifier to power the relay.
nice video but no where to get those Huawei Server PS's for $30USD.....
Cool video. Looks fun, I like the tools you use. N flyback diode, had never heard of that til you brought it up. I believe I saw that on a bmw's car battery (they short all the time n actually ruin batteries and starters lol)
I didn't see the Psu controller or chassis ground in the schematic/diagram you made in the video. 🤔
Good God that is some power
Something with ultrasonic would be nice. Making home built ultrasonic cleaner boards and tunable power supply.
this thing is sick! i wonder if the cheap r4850s are an artifact of tpg's unfortunate investment in huawei gear just before australia banned their use.
Makes sense to me, and the reported price spike may be from a shortage after the glut.
I wondered why it involved CANBUS, but that makes some sense.
"should I make a bigger one?". Yes, yes, always yes!
I have a 150v/500A/75kW DC-DC converter on the drawing board (inspired by a battery/volt/amp/power meter I found on eBay for $40 with those max ratings). Runs on 120v lipo batteries since I don't have space for a generator in my apartment living room and even the 100A mains not even close to enough. Can be controlled anywhere from 12V 7A to the max (already have a 30V/10A on the bench so don't need to turn down into that territory). Water cooled and not sure of the total cost but guessing maybe $10k in parts, so gonna be a few years before I get around to building it unless those stimulus checks keep coming. 75kW would make a nice induction heater (molten anvils and manhole covers anyone?) or jacob's ladder that can stretch arcs 8 feet or a 6-foot spark for a plasma speaker that's louder than a rock concert (~90% modulated). I'm sure something else will pop into my head at some point. The control chip is a ltc3779, and in the datasheet of that it basically shows people how to design one if they can do algebra and basic things like ohm's law and how to size a heat sink.
Sounds epic! Would like to see a video of it!
@@Schematix gonna be awhile just found a meter that does 1000v/1000A though dunno if it's safe to do 1MW in my living room, even if I could find an efficient way to series 7x 143v/1000A converters (without inverting it to AC and using an isolation transformer and converting it back to DC like most common isolated converters). 30-foot sparks in a room that only 20 feet in the largest dimension is probably a bad idea anyway. 150kW/12-foot sparks seems doable though, if I move most of the furniture to the bedroom (and probably build a faraday cage so the RF from it doesn't fry electronics in the whole building or start hidden fires from induction-heated nails).
Hi , since you made this power supply , the price of the Huawei power supply has gone thru the roof....
thanks for sharing
Great video and amazing project! I'm looking at this and wondering just how big of a leep it would be to an induction based forge capable of smelting enough steel to make machine bases.... I dont think even our 13 amp wall outlets would provide enough power, I think it would take an electrician installing a dedicated 40 AMP 240 or 400 volt circuit here in the UK and I'm not sure if that's feasible beyond providing power for electric cookers & heating etc. Even if it is feasible, I'm not sure if a 400 volt AC, 40 amp outlet would be enough to melt enough steel to make a machine base. If it is, then the next problem would be the induction circuit and then the crucible....obviously lifting a crucible that big, containing enough molten metal to make a machine base would be impossible by hand, so an electric hoist would be required...
What a challenge though....
Thanks for your inspiring work and for providing all the plans and schematics!
It would depend on how big of a machine base we're talking about, but for something relatively small like a bridgeport mill, you would need a crazy amount of energy just to heat up the metal(eg. ~300000000 joules).That's for an ideal furnace with no losses(which is not gonna happen in reality). If you were running 20kw(400V at 50A), it would still take several hours. Basically, it would be really expensive, and a pain in the ass to even get access to that level of power.
How did you get the power supply so cheap fella ??? Thanks and Happy Easter.
Sweet Power supply build. Thank you
Does the canbus controller plug directly into the power supply? (didn't see it on the schematic). Thanks!
Try using a big flyback transformer for high voltage
surprised you didn't 3d print mounts to suit the rack mounting for the PSU
The sides of the PSU act as heatsinks for some of the internal components. So mounting them with plastic wouldn't be a good option.
It sure would be nice if you provided links to your pcbs that go right to your sponsor’s website for viewer convenience. I use a phone for watching TH-cam and browsing the web, it’s hard to see which files I need through some of your links as they’re shrunken and won’t expand for viewing. I’d like to build the 3000W induction heater and if there was a link to buy that pcb I would have already ordered it.
Hello! Perfect solution! I also repeated it and did it. Please tell me how the current strength (blue diode) is regulated without load? Everything is clear with voltage, but I can’t understand how to solve with current strength? I need to see the current before the product starts heating. Thank you in advance.
Nice Job poking holes in the steel box! We'd like to learn how you did each? Quantity of blood involved?
seems the CAN BUS controller is not available on TB focus any more, does anyone have a alternative source? Many thanks!
When he got big BIRTHER out I laughed my head off
nice
As a newbie i have a question. This power supply is for ac 50/60 Hz 120v and 240v. Does it mean that the magnetic inductor you built can't run from a dc battery?
The input to the power supply is AC 50/60 Hz at 120 or 240 volts, and it outputs DC.
The input to the induction heater will be DC, which is good, but your battery has a fixed voltage, and some sort of current limits. You’ll have to look at the specs for the heater and battery to see if, and how long it should run.
My guess is it won’t run as long as you like, and will tear the hell out of your battery.
Let me know if you try it!
Awesome video thanks Bro from over the pond. I recently purchased an electric forklift with a 48V 615CCA lead acid battery but no charger. I was thinking of making a mains rectified capacitive battery charger using the old school oil filled aircond capacitors linked in parallel but all of the information I have come across is very old which makes me think it is unsafe. Do you have any ideas about this and if it is possible, and if so do you think it would make for an informative video? Cheers H
I just check out eBay and found that this power supply went through the roof in price. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Am looking forward to the monster induction heater you showed on the channel. Nice work fella too.
what if you reduce the diameter of the coil and increase the number of turns. I looking to increase the heating area to heat up water not meld steel..
great work...
Will you please share the concept behind of connecting the toroid inductors one end is connected to Positive terminal of DC supply?
Sweet supply. Excellent build, Please dump the 'On hold' music :)
I want to build this supply. I’m already collecting components for you 1.4 induction heater. I tried to obtain the can use controller specified in the power supply component list. The link does not work? Also the metal enclosure you used…is that available. It seems very professional to not be available. Please advise & great projects!!!
bro! where is the old video LAB BENCH POWER SUPPLY 30v have you made?
Can a DC inverter welding machine be used as a power supply for a zvs induction heater?
I bought a cheap Amazon special arc welder for this very test(haven't tried it yet). The issue is most of these welders don't have a very high load voltage. ~30VDC it seems in most cases.
@@SeanHodgins nice! please update me if you don't make a video about it.
Interesting beast, I was just wondering how it switches off again using a solid state relay in a DC system..
Hello sir,
Is there any calculation of the copper pipe coil to know how much turns en diameter off the Heating Coil?
Thanks in advance, love the videos.
Greetings Sven
Q and A how well the tune caps hold up on induction heater , had lots fail due cycle current ect ?
Can the Induction heater work with a single loop of copper pipe? I'm thinking heat treatment of blade edges using pipes bent to the shape of the blade.
yes. many videos on YT
@@johnconrad5487 Sorry for being unclear, I was asking if THIS induction heater could handle such low impedances. I am aware these devices do exist, but they can be quite expensive for "twice a year" hobby purposes.
I have a linear RF amplifier running on an Eltek Flatpak 2. It is doing a fine job but I can't have the PS inside the amp case . The HuaWei supply looks a lot shorter in length and likely to fit but the turbine fan sound is a show stopper. Did you manage to silence the fan at all ?
Hola no esta el link- R4850 CANBUS controller no lo puedo encontrar.
hey the curent amp ajuster has a 5v power suply.. the amp volt metre can take 5v and the relay can take 5 volts to power them..why are we puting a 12v power supply in this? the answer is the fan is 12v right?..why not use a 5v fan? in any case the power suply has its own fan and it heat sinks out the aluminium sides if we are going to encase it these sides should touch the aluminium case for heat disapation and a flow through pathe should be created for the stock air intake and out let...i cant see a need for a dc on of switch/relay when we can turn it on and of at the mains or use a mains switch at ac in..if you run it with no load your just creating heat....all these 5 volts could be supplyed with a small 5volt ac to dc supply or tap into the power supply for all like you did with the amp/volt adjuster.why are we using a shunt rated for 50 amps? it can go higher than 53.5 amps right? shunts run permanantly under rated i read can get hot..this says wikipedia can cause the shunt to read inacurate and with higher tempratures that aneal the metal they can be permanantly damaged...im a lerner here so dont be scared to educate me.what iv said above is not from electrical know how.i was just looking at this with what i thaught was common sense...i also want to know if the shunt seller saying its an ac shunt dosent matter when using it on a dc line and i want to know why we use the shunt on the negative ?
Buy some ring crimps if you are going to fiddle around with high power systems, you can't rely on cheap screw clamps to secure live wires
I agree, I came to the comments to say 'boot lace ferrules'.
Hello my friend, Great Job!
Do you think, the canbus controller will fit for the Huawei 4875G1?
regards
👍👍
even on short runs ( few mins ) at max ended in o/c caps ect
9:42 Why are the wires bare like that, i know its ground but still
you just don't need it for gnd, but of course you can make it if you want to
السلام عليكم
هل ممكن ان ترسل لي كيف اعمل واحدة لتسخين المواسير النحاس الاحمر ولحام الفضة
I need to build a power supply like this, using Dell server 100amp PSUs, would like to run 2 to get double amperage, can they be run in series or parallel to achieve this? Would be a good video, I need a 5-17.5 DCV 200amp power supply to test car audio equipment
Hola, gracias, buen vídeo. ¿Puedes ayudarme a una pregunta ó información sobre tu fuente de alimentación?
Quisiera saber el esquema electrónico de la pcb controladora de voltaje y corriente. Para asi comprar los componentes electrónicos en mi país y montarla en un pcb ó protoboard. ¿Tu podrías pasarme el esquema de ese pcb controlador de voltaje y corriente? Gracias.
Very interesting...Can this be used to melt 3 kgs of copper ?
can are that heater gold & silver heat
Could you educate me how can I make an induction furance that can get temperature with stainless steel .in box with deatils in box ,ok.
I was literally going to scale up this classic induction heater from 1,5kW to 3kW
what do you use the induction heaters for? I can see using it to harden metal, or break rusty bolts.
Can´t find the regulator board anymore😔
Mmmmmm nice ☺☺
Waiting for 2 months for this video
Are you sure that small mains power switch is rated for the 17 Amps required at full load?
Trying to find link update to PSU no luck hope u can help
You bought from Taobao from New Zealand!?? I assume that site is good to use then?
how big of a coil diameter will the big induction heater run?
can we limit current ?
Can the current also be adjusted?
Are you sure you know what alloy means?
Could you please post the exact dimensions of the case?
Sir it will run on solar if it work pleas explain little ditail think you
can are you made jewelry spot welder machine?
I'm so dam bummed that the PSU have gone up like 500% since 2 years.
Love your videos; but please, no music on the background; or at least lower it significantly 😓
👍
What's the power input of it
what my eyes see : BIG induction heater
what my brain see : comically LARGE spoon
贊...........
10 years from now: Amon: Next Video Im going to show you how to build a power supply system to power my next project. Me: yeah that'll be cool Amon: Ok so what you need for this build is a Large High Capacity and High Flow River, I'm Going to use the Waikato River but I've scaled the system so you can use what's available. Me: What is hell is he Building for his next project? Amon: This is the new and Improved Telsa Model 7. Ahh Right. makes sense.
Can you Add all the Components in the schematics.??
the schematic is incorrect. he does his very often. either incorrect schematic or partial. Dont know why he does this. after all anyone attempting to make one of these will just take his list of parts and will know how to assemble it.
maybe help with brand/type love vids ect
No need to built it, MIG inverter welder provide 54VDC high Amps.
Haha you just boxed a original PSU
I enjoy your content but I must ask is the music absolutely necessary ? It is annoying at times for some of us ,as I can not speak for everyone.
Great video and project. Nest time please don't make the music so loud. I know I could turn my speakers down but then I would have to keep turning it up when you speak. As a matter of fact I prefer your older videos where you talked there was no music. Most of us that watch your video are older than children and have a better attention span and do not need to be entertained with music.
Do you have a email that I cud ask some questions...i cud here if you don't mind...???
230 volts @ 40 amps? That's what a typical power point can handle.
Shame that the questions go unanswered 😕
sorry but in 9:40 why do u need to add a ground wire?
In case of a short to the chassis, its a required safety feature.
@@flexairz thank u so mush !!
Good video but like most videos, its spoiled by unnecessary crappy music.
hello
Hi , would you consider building and selling me a power supply like that?
So basically (unless you upgrade the input module and plug as you (very briefly) mentioned, you're only going to be actually getting about 2000 watts maximum out from this power supply instead of "over 3000" as implied by the video title, because of the 10 amp input fuse and terminal rating. You might should have clarified this fact a bit further, because there is already SO MANY people here on TH-cam making devices that claim to put out more power than what is being put into them, (and we all (should) be aware enough of the basic laws of physics to know that's not really possible irl), therefore those kinds of videos are prob. making some lesser knowledgable people build those things and then causing a potential fire hazard at the very least by potentially overloading such devices...
And you definitely don't want to be misleading anyone and causing any unsafe conditions for any total novice watching this! (Not that very many average people even can ever find such a high power output cell tower PSU like that one you have to begin with), but so I'm sure you get what I'm trying to say here; just be more diligent(sp?) to clarify limitations like that in the future, because you don't wanna be causing anyone watching your content to ever get into any unsafe situations because of an (unmentioned, unclarified, or unexplained) "design limitation" or whatever!...
Cool video and build overall though, I certainly wish I could find (OR even fully understand how to actually build myself) a super high power output PSU like that one you used here! (That thing was prob. pretty expensive to buy, huh?!)(Where did you find it/how did you acquire it?)
I wanted to also see this power supply actually working and powering that induction heater to melt or heat up something, that would've been really cool!
"Built"
ok but this is not a cheap sollution..
Each to their own. All up this cost me about $200NZD ($145USD) to build. Considering the high power output, I think it is a bargain!
I've seen a number of faulty wire installations and exposed conductors.. not safe.
All the AC connections are safely isolated inside the metal chassis. So unless you're Casper the friendly ghost with the ability to pass through a 2mm metal alloy enclosure. I think it's fair to say you're safe
Well there Mr. Safety Genius. When can we expect you to put a video out of a build like this one, But with proper connections? I bet we can't. This guy has probably forgotten more about electronics than you will ever know. And his risk assessment seems just fine to me. Considering the voltage and amperage of each connection.
@@prospectorphil4764 He didn't say to fully follow his instructions just mind your own safety... I'm sure he himself also doesn't want to get electrecuted.