I figured that carb would be jetted just about right for about a 300 CI engine. I had to go up 3 primary jet sizes on that carb for my 390, increase the primary idle feed restrictors from .046" to .048" and I wound up increasing the idle feed restrictors in the secondary booster cluster .002" as well to smooth out my idle some since I set the secondary stop screw to be open a little more than how it came so I can keep my primary idle stop screw set so the transfer slots are about square. I really like how it runs on my 390. Great throttle response and picked up torque below 2000 RPM. It cold starts better and idles better cold than my 1850 Holley did also. There is a hidden choke pull off adjustment on those that the literature does not say anything about. If you look at the carb from the front, look at the choke housing assembly, right on the front there is what appears to be a little piece of glue or epoxy and under that is a flathead screw for adjusting the choke pull off. I gotta say, that's about one of the best sounding Y blocks I have heard.
Thank you, I appreciate that. I am not the best at tuning and I certainly learn something each time in the garage it seems but I do like tinkering and seeing what I can do to get tweak some more power out of the thing. That is good news on your 390 - this carb does seem to be well made. I will check out that choke pull off adjustment.
@@HotRodReverend The gas gauge seems to be dropping slower than usual as well. What kind of starter and what kind of mufflers are on your car? the mufflers sound great and that starter does not sound like the old inertia starter lol. If your engine starts up cold and does not load up or want to die after a few seconds I'd say leave the choke pull off adjustment alone. From how it sounds in the video the off idle response is good with no lean stumbles and as long as the idle mixture screws are within a normal 1-1.75 turn range there should be no need to change the IFR jet size like I had to. The exhaust on mine also smells super clean even with the choke on. The Holley 1850 the idle would start to get smelly around 12.8:1 and the exhaust smells clean at 12.5:1 or richer with the summit carb.
@@MattsRageFitGarage the mufflers are glass packs that installed when I was a teenager but I added a good set of headers and larger down pipes this past year. (My playlist has a video on the exhaust upgrade too.) The starter is a powermaster. No video on that one but check my blog at HotRodRevrend.com/blog - you can use the search box, all kinds of stuff there. This carb is definitely not as rich as the Holley 1850 - I can already tell that. And I will keep an eye on that choke.
@@HotRodReverend Those old school glasspacks definitely sound better than the modern counterpart. What do you average for MPG out of your car? my dad had a 56 club sedan with a 57 spec 4 barrel 312 he built for it. He put a toploader 4 speed out of a 66 galaxie in it and put a 9" rear axle in it out of a 57 Ford out of the junkyard. He also ran the 1850 Holley and said it averaged 12 MPG with 3.91, 4.57 and 3.25 gears no matter how he drove it. He drove that thing daily from 71-87 then my cousin drove it daily clear up until the mid 2000's before he sold it. Apparently, it's been totally restored now.
@@MattsRageFitGarage Back when I had an Edelbrock I got close to 18 mpg, things decreased with the Holley for sure - around 13 mpg. But I tend to "horse things around" quite a bit with getting on WOT when I can. As a teenager, with a 272 and that little Holley 94 two barrel, I got a documented 23 mpg!
That carb has easily changed idle feed restrictions and also accelerator pump discharge nozzles. To find out if the idle feed restrictions are rich or lean. Use an air fuel ratio gauge. Bring up rpms to around 1700. Just below when the primary boosters start to trickle If you get it just right. Your back tires will have very short lives.
Wow, those instructions, well the pictures and explanation, are not very clear. These carbs are more or less copies of Autolite 4100s with a Holley twist, sold by Summit. So unless you are familiar with 4100s, one would probably not figure it out. Can't say I'm real excited about the external dual feed line. Glad you kept the camera rolling through fighting the issues! You were probably up on the fast idle cam the first time you backed down the idle. I've done it! Seems like a nice carb overall, it's one I have not yet played around with, but eventually would like to. Great video!
They will fit any other Y Block head from 239-312, but I have no idea about other Ford engines. I doubt it would work on any other engine series but the Y.
Y Blocks will get pretty oily if your crankcase breather is open to the atmosphere. Running a PCV valve makes a huge difference. I do use Awesome spray cleaner for dust at times if needed.
@HotRodReverend thanks very kindly Padre. I will follow your instructions and add a pvc valve. I am building a 56 Victoria. Any ideas on where I can buy headers for my 292? Steve
@@cutworm59 the cheapest option would be the Red’s Headers website. If you want true high performance take a look at this article from my friend Ted Eaton: www.eatonbalancing.com/2021/01/17/ford-y-block-exhaust-testing/ Your main problem will be clearing the steering gear on the drivers side.
I wonder if it's made in USA . I had a Autolite 2100 that just wouldn't idle . So I went low cost and got a 2 bbl off EBAY. It's made in China . It has a lower cfm and idles perfect but it's slower than the old one . Also the jetting was all wrong way too lean .
Good morning Reverend, just got a 1962 f100 uni with a 292 Y block. Where I’m from driving a manual is more of hassle than joy. Which automatic transmission can I put behind it that won’t require too many modifications. Thanks in advance.
There are a number of companies that offer kits to put an AOD or a C4 behind it. These kits are basically adapter plates and a little bit of hardware. C4 would be your best option as far as cost I believe. The easiest thing to do would be to use what Ford did in 1962 for automatics in light trucks. All of the parts would be a guaranteed fit.
Hey reverend. I have a 1957 Ford Custom 300 and I had a question. Not about the engine, but about the gas pedal. I have problems connecting the gas pedal to the arm and not sure now it works, ever since it broke off on me. Anyway I can get a photo of the backside of the gas pedal, or maybe some advice or instructions? I would appreciate it!
The 55/56 gas pedals are identical but Ford changed the pedal in 1957. I would think the end of the curved metal rod would be in a mushroom shape that would pop into a hole on the back of the pedal.
@@HotRodReverend Unfortunately they seem to have changed it bigtime for 57. Theres no hole in the back of the pedal, just two rubber...what looks like to be bumpers it seems, and then theres the accelerator rod, which has a hole in the middle, but yet no way to connect it to the pedal, so Im kinda stumped on what to do.
Nice set of wheels.
Good carb choice too.
They used to be a Holley performer.
All the best to you and yours Sir.
Great documentation and sounds perfect. 👍
I figured that carb would be jetted just about right for about a 300 CI engine. I had to go up 3 primary jet sizes on that carb for my 390, increase the primary idle feed restrictors from .046" to .048" and I wound up increasing the idle feed restrictors in the secondary booster cluster .002" as well to smooth out my idle some since I set the secondary stop screw to be open a little more than how it came so I can keep my primary idle stop screw set so the transfer slots are about square. I really like how it runs on my 390. Great throttle response and picked up torque below 2000 RPM. It cold starts better and idles better cold than my 1850 Holley did also. There is a hidden choke pull off adjustment on those that the literature does not say anything about. If you look at the carb from the front, look at the choke housing assembly, right on the front there is what appears to be a little piece of glue or epoxy and under that is a flathead screw for adjusting the choke pull off.
I gotta say, that's about one of the best sounding Y blocks I have heard.
Thank you, I appreciate that. I am not the best at tuning and I certainly learn something each time in the garage it seems but I do like tinkering and seeing what I can do to get tweak some more power out of the thing.
That is good news on your 390 - this carb does seem to be well made. I will check out that choke pull off adjustment.
@@HotRodReverend The gas gauge seems to be dropping slower than usual as well. What kind of starter and what kind of mufflers are on your car? the mufflers sound great and that starter does not sound like the old inertia starter lol.
If your engine starts up cold and does not load up or want to die after a few seconds I'd say leave the choke pull off adjustment alone. From how it sounds in the video the off idle response is good with no lean stumbles and as long as the idle mixture screws are within a normal 1-1.75 turn range there should be no need to change the IFR jet size like I had to. The exhaust on mine also smells super clean even with the choke on. The Holley 1850 the idle would start to get smelly around 12.8:1 and the exhaust smells clean at 12.5:1 or richer with the summit carb.
@@MattsRageFitGarage the mufflers are glass packs that installed when I was a teenager but I added a good set of headers and larger down pipes this past year. (My playlist has a video on the exhaust upgrade too.)
The starter is a powermaster. No video on that one but check my blog at HotRodRevrend.com/blog - you can use the search box, all kinds of stuff there.
This carb is definitely not as rich as the Holley 1850 - I can already tell that. And I will keep an eye on that choke.
@@HotRodReverend Those old school glasspacks definitely sound better than the modern counterpart. What do you average for MPG out of your car? my dad had a 56 club sedan with a 57 spec 4 barrel 312 he built for it. He put a toploader 4 speed out of a 66 galaxie in it and put a 9" rear axle in it out of a 57 Ford out of the junkyard. He also ran the 1850 Holley and said it averaged 12 MPG with 3.91, 4.57 and 3.25 gears no matter how he drove it. He drove that thing daily from 71-87 then my cousin drove it daily clear up until the mid 2000's before he sold it. Apparently, it's been totally restored now.
@@MattsRageFitGarage Back when I had an Edelbrock I got close to 18 mpg, things decreased with the Holley for sure - around 13 mpg. But I tend to "horse things around" quite a bit with getting on WOT when I can. As a teenager, with a 272 and that little Holley 94 two barrel, I got a documented 23 mpg!
Ted Eaton was telling me that he has been having good luck with the Summit carbs when we were talking g about carb choice a while back too.
That carb has easily changed idle feed restrictions and also accelerator pump discharge nozzles.
To find out if the idle feed restrictions are rich or lean. Use an air fuel ratio gauge. Bring up rpms to around 1700. Just below when the primary boosters start to trickle
If you get it just right. Your back tires will have very short lives.
Wow, those instructions, well the pictures and explanation, are not very clear.
These carbs are more or less copies of Autolite 4100s with a Holley twist, sold by Summit. So unless you are familiar with 4100s, one would probably not figure it out. Can't say I'm real excited about the external dual feed line. Glad you kept the camera rolling through fighting the issues! You were probably up on the fast idle cam the first time you backed down the idle. I've done it! Seems like a nice carb overall, it's one I have not yet played around with, but eventually would like to. Great video!
thanks!
Open the throttle to let the choke cam fall. Gravity will pull it down.
Sorry to bother, way off point here but can I custom fit 55 thunderbird valve covers to any other heads?
They will fit any other Y Block head from 239-312, but I have no idea about other Ford engines. I doubt it would work on any other engine series but the Y.
Hi Padre, how do you keep your intake so clean? Thanks Steve
Y Blocks will get pretty oily if your crankcase breather is open to the atmosphere. Running a PCV valve makes a huge difference. I do use Awesome spray cleaner for dust at times if needed.
@HotRodReverend thanks very kindly Padre. I will follow your instructions and add a pvc valve. I am building a 56 Victoria. Any ideas on where I can buy headers for my 292? Steve
@@cutworm59 the cheapest option would be the Red’s Headers website. If you want true high performance take a look at this article from my friend Ted Eaton: www.eatonbalancing.com/2021/01/17/ford-y-block-exhaust-testing/ Your main problem will be clearing the steering gear on the drivers side.
@HotRodReverend thanks again dear Padre. I will get busy! I very much enjoy tour videos and I am proud of your ministry. Steve Rains
I wonder if it's made in USA . I had a Autolite 2100 that just wouldn't idle . So I went low cost and got a 2 bbl off EBAY. It's made in China . It has a lower cfm and idles perfect but it's slower than the old one . Also the jetting was all wrong way too lean .
Good morning Reverend, just got a 1962 f100 uni with a 292 Y block. Where I’m from driving a manual is more of hassle than joy. Which automatic transmission can I put behind it that won’t require too many modifications. Thanks in advance.
There are a number of companies that offer kits to put an AOD or a C4 behind it. These kits are basically adapter plates and a little bit of hardware. C4 would be your best option as far as cost I believe. The easiest thing to do would be to use what Ford did in 1962 for automatics in light trucks. All of the parts would be a guaranteed fit.
@@HotRodReverend thank you for taking the time, especially on a Sunday Reverend. God bless.
Hey reverend. I have a 1957 Ford Custom 300 and I had a question. Not about the engine, but about the gas pedal. I have problems connecting the gas pedal to the arm and not sure now it works, ever since it broke off on me. Anyway I can get a photo of the backside of the gas pedal, or maybe some advice or instructions? I would appreciate it!
The 55/56 gas pedals are identical but Ford changed the pedal in 1957. I would think the end of the curved metal rod would be in a mushroom shape that would pop into a hole on the back of the pedal.
@@HotRodReverend Unfortunately they seem to have changed it bigtime for 57. Theres no hole in the back of the pedal, just two rubber...what looks like to be bumpers it seems, and then theres the accelerator rod, which has a hole in the middle, but yet no way to connect it to the pedal, so Im kinda stumped on what to do.