There have been comments concerning the fact that the BEST OF series videos were created several yrs. ago yet I have the current year noted in the title. The reason is that the facts haven't changed yet and when they do, I'll be sure to create a new video reflecting the new information. Secondly, to provide current/relevant information, the title must reflect the current year's date in it. Thanks for trusting me to provide current/relevant information for you. 🖖
Very good info! I put manual flush valves at the ends of techline for flushing but I also could add more tubing to it as well since both sides of fitting can have techline installed
I have never used poly. That video about trenchless pipe installation was done in Indiana where my son lives. During the recording of this video was the first time I've seen that used. I learned as I recorded. We don't use that out here in CA.
good general overview for a beginner, thanks. Id like to see some more discussion about the zones and programming side of it, ill continue researching your channel, seems helpful, maybe ill find what im looking for, thanks for the good vidya
Thank you for your sharing of knowledge. I am working on a new setup for my yard and have two questions. I have several garden beds around my patio areas where I ran 3/4" poly to from a planned manifold setup. I am looking to reuse the three Hunter PRV 1" zone valves and am lloing to setup drip irrigation in each bed versus the older spray heads that were scattered about before (all old stuff has been removed). My question is I have 70psi static incoming city water service. Knowing that I need to reduce this down to about 25psi for drip I wanted to ask if am I better off doing so using the hunter HFR Y filters with intregrated regulators or should I leave as is and use a regulator at each bed where I stub up with a riser prior to the start of the drip? Just not sure if reducing the pressure at the manifold after the zone valve has any other impacet that I am not aware of. Seems like this would be the cleanest way of doing the install. My other question is the previsou system already had a city required backflow preventer installed that feeds the irrigation manifold. Being I am looking to convert to drip is there any need to add an additional screw on style backflow preventer for each of the zone so the drip emitter tubing does not pull any sediment in? Thank you again.
Regarding the HFR's at the valve manifold vs having a device in each bed, that depends on the distance from the valve to the beds and whether you have things like walkways in between. The cleanest, easiest way is to install the HFR's at the valves, but if you are going "a distance" then PVC to the beds is best then install an HFR in a valve box (10" round or 12" rectangular) there OR a RainBird Retro kit in each bed. If you install an HFR in the beds, I encourage you to convert to drip tubing above grade. A couple of my videos show you how. If you are going further than 100 ft. with each lateral of drip tubing you should go with 40 PSI pressure regulators/HFRs. I'm not sure what you mean on the last question. The backflow preventer before the manifold doesn't keep the sediment out of the system if that's what you are asking. That is what the wye filters are for. If that isn't what you mean, ask again in a new comment thread to be sure I see your question. Good luck.
5:44 I used one of those dead ends without the double loop for my drip system, I had it on and I heard a BOOM and it shot past my head and hit the fence and then went somewhere I could never find, I guess I got lucky.
oofdah! Do you have a plastic pressure regulator on the outlet side of your DRIP irrigation valve? Or a brass pressure regulator before your irrigation valves?
@@SprinklerPros No pressure valve, the one in the backyard is no longer in service, but I am running small drip system for 2 pots that come off a sprinkler adapter, that is probably at 65 to 90 PSI, do I need a regulator or probably watch some more videos.
Definitely need a pressure regulator on a drip line with that high water pressure. I will make it a priority to create a video specifically addressing pressure, but for now, watch this video: _Connecting Drip Systems to Irrigation Valves and Faucets_ . Let me know how it goes. Oh, and I just left you a note on your question on the nozzle video.
Great info! Do you have any recommendations for microsprinklers in somewhat densely planted beds, in a windy area? I've used some of the adjustable rotary kind, which seem to be intended for individual trees given their round pattern, but I was looking to install something with a more even coverage (Im thinking 180 degree ones, with an occasional 360 for the larger areas should do the trick). Thanks!
@@SprinklerPros it's the valve at the end of the laterals that simply bleeds off pressure, leaks? so that the line never has water in it or rather never has stale water build up on the plug end of the line side of the lateral.
Joan, if an emitter is broken or clogged and a plug lets water leak past it, you need to cut that section out and repair it with a coupler. If the emitter is simply clogged, it's best not to remove it, thus ripping the hole larger. It's best to punch a new hole nearby and insert a new emitter. Just leave the old one alone.
There have been comments concerning the fact that the BEST OF series videos were created several yrs. ago yet I have the current year noted in the title. The reason is that the facts haven't changed yet and when they do, I'll be sure to create a new video reflecting the new information. Secondly, to provide current/relevant information, the title must reflect the current year's date in it. Thanks for trusting me to provide current/relevant information for you. 🖖
Very well explained Getting more verses for our conversation. Ty MJ
Very good info! I put manual flush valves at the ends of techline for flushing but I also could add more tubing to it as well since both sides of fitting can have techline installed
Great thinking! Always thinking of future potential is the way to go.
@@SprinklerPros by chance do you recommend a certain brand of poly tubing? I'm transitioning over from pvc...
I have never used poly. That video about trenchless pipe installation was done in Indiana where my son lives. During the recording of this video was the first time I've seen that used. I learned as I recorded. We don't use that out here in CA.
good general overview for a beginner, thanks.
Id like to see some more discussion about the zones and programming side of it, ill continue researching your channel, seems helpful, maybe ill find what im looking for, thanks for the good vidya
You're welcome. I hope you find what need on my channel.
Thank you for your sharing of knowledge. I am working on a new setup for my yard and have two questions.
I have several garden beds around my patio areas where I ran 3/4" poly to from a planned manifold setup. I am looking to reuse the three Hunter PRV 1" zone valves and am lloing to setup drip irrigation in each bed versus the older spray heads that were scattered about before (all old stuff has been removed).
My question is I have 70psi static incoming city water service. Knowing that I need to reduce this down to about 25psi for drip I wanted to ask if am I better off doing so using the hunter HFR Y filters with intregrated regulators or should I leave as is and use a regulator at each bed where I stub up with a riser prior to the start of the drip? Just not sure if reducing the pressure at the manifold after the zone valve has any other impacet that I am not aware of. Seems like this would be the cleanest way of doing the install.
My other question is the previsou system already had a city required backflow preventer installed that feeds the irrigation manifold. Being I am looking to convert to drip is there any need to add an additional screw on style backflow preventer for each of the zone so the drip emitter tubing does not pull any sediment in?
Thank you again.
Regarding the HFR's at the valve manifold vs having a device in each bed, that depends on the distance from the valve to the beds and whether you have things like walkways in between. The cleanest, easiest way is to install the HFR's at the valves, but if you are going "a distance" then PVC to the beds is best then install an HFR in a valve box (10" round or 12" rectangular) there OR a RainBird Retro kit in each bed. If you install an HFR in the beds, I encourage you to convert to drip tubing above grade. A couple of my videos show you how.
If you are going further than 100 ft. with each lateral of drip tubing you should go with 40 PSI pressure regulators/HFRs.
I'm not sure what you mean on the last question. The backflow preventer before the manifold doesn't keep the sediment out of the system if that's what you are asking. That is what the wye filters are for. If that isn't what you mean, ask again in a new comment thread to be sure I see your question. Good luck.
5:44 I used one of those dead ends without the double loop for my drip system, I had it on and I heard a BOOM and it shot past my head and hit the fence and then went somewhere I could never find, I guess I got lucky.
Yikes! Sounds like your water pressure's too high, eh? Glad you didn't get hit.
@@SprinklerPros Almost 90 PSI, thanks for your great videos, I have sub'd.
oofdah! Do you have a plastic pressure regulator on the outlet side of your DRIP irrigation valve? Or a brass pressure regulator before your irrigation valves?
@@SprinklerPros No pressure valve, the one in the backyard is no longer in service, but I am running small drip system for 2 pots that come off a sprinkler adapter, that is probably at 65 to 90 PSI, do I need a regulator or probably watch some more videos.
Definitely need a pressure regulator on a drip line with that high water pressure. I will make it a priority to create a video specifically addressing pressure, but for now, watch this video: _Connecting Drip Systems to Irrigation Valves and Faucets_ . Let me know how it goes. Oh, and I just left you a note on your question on the nozzle video.
Great info! Do you have any recommendations for microsprinklers in somewhat densely planted beds, in a windy area? I've used some of the adjustable rotary kind, which seem to be intended for individual trees given their round pattern, but I was looking to install something with a more even coverage (Im thinking 180 degree ones, with an occasional 360 for the larger areas should do the trick). Thanks!
Hi Joe, are you intending to install these sprays on 1/2" drip tubing or off of buried PVC pipe?
@@SprinklerProsfrom 1/2” drip main line, above ground. Thanks
Have you seen my video called _The 3 main different types of drip irrigation and when to use them_ ? It should answer your question.
@@SprinklerPros I’ll have a look, thanks!
I dont see your resources guide or free downloads? What am i missing?
What are your thoughts on the automatic flush valves?
Please elaborate. Do you know the brand name?
@@SprinklerPros it's the valve at the end of the laterals that simply bleeds off pressure, leaks? so that the line never has water in it or rather never has stale water build up on the plug end of the line side of the lateral.
How can you repair a broken drip emitter in line? I haven't found that the plugs work?
Joan, if an emitter is broken or clogged and a plug lets water leak past it, you need to cut that section out and repair it with a coupler. If the emitter is simply clogged, it's best not to remove it, thus ripping the hole larger. It's best to punch a new hole nearby and insert a new emitter. Just leave the old one alone.
Got that right, suppliers have limited...not much more than h depot. (And you can't ask anyone at HD now that they hire anyone)
When I first found out that 1/2" tubing was not 1/2", it made me think that someone needed a good flogging! ;-)
right!?
You could hit them with a 2 x 4 but wait they are not actually 2 x 4's