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Keith, Sorry for the delay. I was on 2 trips and am still catching up on things. I don't know what they're basing that claim on because the nozzle still must reach the distance it was designed for just like the std nozzles and then the lower spray port is presumably additional water. To verify, I just looked up the performance charts for the std and U-series and the performance (water usage and distance of spray) is 100% identical. The only thing I can think of that would allow them to say that honestly is if you reduce your run times by 30% when installing the U-series, but then that's not comparing apples with apples. Is there any fine print explaining where they come up with that? To answer your question, I believe that if you design and install your heads at the proper distance from each other so they easily reach each other then there's rarely need for the U's. It doesn't hurt to use them but I don't believe it's necessary either in most cases when done properly. Let me know if you have any other questions.

David, Sorry for the delay. I was on 2 trips and am still catching up on things. With the desired Program (A, B, or C) selected and the dial set on whichever Start time (1-3) you need then hold down the plus or minus button to advance the start time to PM. To know which zones are active on each program, turn the dial to each zone number and see if there is run time set for each. Let me know if there's more Q's.

@ no problem. I’m just impressed that you even got back to me. Thank you very much.

Sorry for the delay. I was on 2 trips and am still catching up on things. 18-gauge wire can carry 24 volts for sprinkler valves up to 750 feet when operating one valve at a time (I believe a good rule of thumb, though is to avoid going beyond 250 ft). However, there are many factors to consider when sizing wire, including: The voltage coming out of the controller, The solenoid draw, The number of valves being operated, and the quality of the wire splices. If you're using a different gauge of irrigation wire, check online for the capacity.

I have never seen them installed out here. Without seeing them in action, I'd have my doubts that it would work well out West. We depend on head to head coverage and this system doesn't implement that design/strategy. It would probably work fine in cooler climates.

Bummer. I deal with Irritrol timers all the time that have been in service as far back as 1993 and still going strong. Some of them fail but so do every other brand. What is your favorite brand and model that you have had good luck with?

John, I expressed my reasons. Most of my issues with it are based on the inability to easily diagnose issues down the road AND that the programming can only be accessed by way of smartphones--not computers. My videos are based on my experience and perspective from 40 years in the field. I don't expect everyone to see things the same.

Thomas, cool. What's a relocation reduction?

Relocation the values by shorting them by a few feet.

ok

Daniel, Sorry I don't know what you mean. If you are referring to the thread pitch. No I don't know. If that's not what you mean feel free to ask again worded differently.

Great! Thanks for being here, John.

Sam, I like the app. It's as nice as the competitions'.

Yes, everything you see is on the same line. The homeowner takes care of their timer programming but rule of thumb would have it set for about 30 mins. and while the plants are new in the ground during this warm time of year I'd have it running everyday for about 2 weeks before considering to cut it back. That redwood tree is also getting watered by most of the other emitters too since it's roots reach "everywhere". I just created that loop for some dedicated water.

You're welcome!

yeppers

If you are referring to the lawn that I replaced the MP's with PGJ's then, no, I didn't address the specific reason, but the short of it is that the further the reach such as the 3000 series that I used on this job, the higher the trajectory is of the streams. I truly avoid using 3000 and 3500 series nozzles for this reason. Rotary nozzles are just streams and so, by nature, can't guarantee even coverage like standard stationary sprays and rotor sprays when they are operating properly. As far as whether I had enough installed, yes, as the video states that the Hunter rep agreed that the installation was done perfectly.

@@SprinklerProsAs another commenter pointed out, the key thing is that it’s watered twice as long. Did that get addressed?

I''m not sure exactly what you mean but the PGJ's and MP's were set to run the same amount of run time.

That's where the issue lies. MPs need to be watered for double the time since water output is much slower. If they’re not on for long enough, the ground won’t get enough water.

The key is understanding that ideally we are attempting to put down the same amount of water per session regardless of which product we use so it doesn't matter how long it runs as long as we accomplish that.

I always use ratcheting cutters when possible, but yes, sometimes I am concerned that the pipe will fracture due to age or exposure to heat/sun. In this case they were south facing valve boxes surrounded by rock and a stucco wall in a hot climate so it had all the factors for concern. Another reason I sometimes use them is to conserve every bit of pipe I can when splicing in new fittings into potentially tight places like valve manifolds.

Wayne, Interesting. I've not seen that happen either but I don't doubt it. I wonder if the pressure is too high or if there is dirt in there or if the assembly is cocked at an angle. Any of those scenarios could attribute to those types of failures.

It's been a long time since I've seen that error msg and it's not in the troubleshooting section of the manual. I'm not remembering how to get it to stop. Try putting the dial to RUN then hitting the minus button. Maybe someone else in the audience can chime in.

You're welcome. Shallow. Yes. I just gotta work with what is installed.

I can imagine how rough it is to winterize with rotary nozzles. The most common reason I encounter with them clogging is on well/dirty water systems where folks don't have any filtration inline before the valves or nozzles. The other issues you mention are also addressed in the video including how they aren't my first choice for lawn nozzles but they serve a purpose where needed which is also discussed.

I use watertite wire nuts (i.e. King). I don't use the big waterproofing assemblies that I am guessing you are speaking of.

For the sake of the audience, it shouldn't be bulging. This is caused from having it on a line that is under constant 24/7 pressure. It states on the label and in the video not to do this.

check out my video on that topic. I have alot to say.

Do you have a Hunter timer?

@@SprinklerPros I do I figured out the issue ty for responding

Randy, thanks for your thoughts. Yes, the impact is so simple and can last a long time if cared for. Out where I live the gophers and bermudagrass fill the popup version bodies (ex: RB Maxi-Paws and Mini-Paws) so that destroys them faster than anything, but otherwise they do well. Since the abovementioned issues often occur here, when they go bad I replace them with Hunter PGJ's or PGP's since they don't have those issues.

Thank you. You are a good thinker. The spray pattern is optimized at the factory setting, which is typically full open. The spray droplets are compromised when the distance is reduced. That's why it's best to use the right nozzle for the right situation/distance instead of doing what most folks do and buy 15ft nozzles for everything and then crank them down if they're spraying too far. I was on a job today that had another example of using all [Rain Bird] adjustable nozzles so the sprays weren't performing as well as if there were stationary nozzles in place.

The anti-siphon valves act as independent backflow preventers. In most cases, the a/s valves will 'release' water after operating because the piping or drip tubing on that line is above height of the valve so the water will blurp out of the anti-siphon cap until the water in the piping or tubing has equalized. This is totally normal but is an example of why the sprinkler valves should be above the piping or tubing. All that said as a possibility only of your situation. You can replace the a/s valves with inline valves but it's not recommended if there is no backflow prevention.

Art, Are they inline valves or anti-siphon valves? What brand and model are the old and new?

I have a video about how to program a Rain Dial timer.

Thanks. Boy you work on alot of stuff I never touch. I stick to PVC and my truck is neatly and orderly full. I have no room for tools and fittings for other materials.

It must be a MAC thing cuz it plays fine for me. Good luck.

Great! Have you watched my video called The Best Controllers for 2024?

@@SprinklerPros No I will look for it.

@@SprinklerPros The one I find is 3 years old, can you link it for me? Thanks

@@Moondoggy1941 The 3 yr old video is correct. The facts haven't changed in 3 yrs.

@@SprinklerPros Thanks

100 percent! This review is usleless considering the creator doesn't advise how to correctly use this product.

I understand your statement/question but I don't have a good answer for that but I have seen products installed on the 'hot' side of the valves that shouldn't be and they, indeed, eventually fail so I believe it's a good practice to follow their instruction regarding this.

Just buy one popup and the flush cap is yours forever!

Not sure what you mean.

Yes. That is normal for the run times to show zero when the switch is flipped to RUN or OFF. I can't help you with the troubleshooting of why the system isn't running. Too many variables without being there to see things.