Fast isn't always better, Sovol SV07 Review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2023
- Find out more at sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv...
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I wonder if anyone is going to notice the difference in video quality. www.3dpprofessor.com/2023/06/29/sovol-sv07-review-video/
They should, it is a way different camera
Hey I’m having an issue with the sovol sv07 I have at my club at my college, I keep getting a max volumetric flow rate reached error, I’m using orca slicer.
@@ZeFoxii interesting. My only thought would be that you need to slow down a bit.
Yeah, I could tell it was off but it's good enough. That's how most work in life should be performed, unless you really need or want a superior quality. I only use 1080p for my canon and gopro which are fairly modern. It's just not needed (unless I need to crop) to go above that level and makes working with it much easier.z
4:30 - The accelerometer doesn't need a quick attach clip. There needs to an X accelerometer and a Y accelerometer, and they need to be permanently mounted. The accelerometer chip is tiny and very low mass. It could easily be integrated into the print head.
I have 2, i leave 1 attached to the printhead, and 1 screwed to a printed holder that slips onto the bed. Sv06 with klipper
1. He did not wait 20 sec for initial boot up, turned off host half way and messed up file system (did not see status lights??)
2. you could not see the tool drawer? Put on your glasses!
3. PEI sheet of this printer sticks amazingly well, no problem with PLA, PETG. Just wipe your greasy fingerprints with dish soap or isopropyl alcohol
4. set belt tensions correctly, there is no layer shift
5. never leave your 3d printer unattended, especially before proper calibration. If caught in time you would not have any blob
6. you know you can spin the z lead screws manually to lift the head? (then do an automatic z-tilt calibration)
7. input shaper calibration is not necessary, printer comes will calibrated from factory, it does not need to be done often. The accelerometer is a nice addition to have in the package. It takes about 45 seconds to mount for a normal user
It feels this reviewer has some affiliation with bambu labs, mentioning that brand twice as many times as Sovol. Makes his reviews a bit questionable.
I can tell you're a fan.
I just bought the SV07 Plus and my prints were looking EXACTLY like yours. I double ran all of the calibrations. Still looked awful. You know what fixed it? Remove the springs and thumb wheels and put the stand offs on. Prints perfectly.
This is by far the best review of the Sovol is good to see people being honest and not chasing the dollar
They may never work with me again.
... eh, frees up my time.
@@3dpprofessor Doubt they will ever work with me either 🤣
@@TripodsGarage frees up your time.
Sovol has been responsive to community input in the past. I hope that your critiques are seen and valued and applied to future revisions of this printer.
No, they haven't lol. Sovol has probably the worst customer service/support on earth.
They have yet to respond to my layer shifting problem. Email unanswered for 2 weeks now.
@@3dpprofessor My first prints looked like an earthquake hit -- they asked me to check the grub screws on the stepper motors. Did you check that? Once I tightened that up, it's been fine.
@@allwoundup3574they seem to be responsive to feedback on design problems. The SV06 build plate cable wasn’t supported well, the SV07 seems to have addressed that.
You can turn off the motors and turn the z coupler by hand to move the x gantry up. You don't have to do it on the screen, which wanted you to auto home first. Just for future reference if/when you have another failed print. I had an Ender 3 that used to fail a lot and I, being lazy and not wanting to click around with the knob would just turn the z coupler by hand to move it up.
That's what I end up doing, but I hate to do that because there's a chance you'll throw the motors off calibration with each other.
I had several other fails in the process of testing this printer, which is why I never put the shroud back on. And for some reason the plastic always seemed to want to stick to the nozzle more than the build plate.
@@3dpprofessor oh, that's right I forgot the z motors were controlled independently on this printer. You're right, it could throw them off.
It's probably good to remove the shroud anyway, because it reduces weight of the print head, as long as you can do without the lights. As far as bed adhesion I have always had problems with those pei sheets too. I much prefer glass. I modified my Neptune 3 pro to print on glass. I think your right though in your video with it being more of a tinkers machine because of the mentioned needed modifications.
I bumped the x axis belt tensioner and then after the print was done found the problem, why not a ratchet system so it cant unintentionally move if bumped?
Wow. Thank you. I think you've covered every problem a machine could have in one video. All but a plugged extrusion nozzle and stripped feed into the print head. But, that's a whole different video.
This was an AWESOME FAST printer that printed great (after we tightened every grub screw in every pulley on the printer.) I love the cooling fan on the x axis!
It is a cool fan. I did forget to mention it.
lol, every printer I have needed a torque screwdriver and an hour to make sure everything was set and tightened...this is just the nature of shipping from china I guess
I appreciate your review style. Since the SV07 isn't great, do you have a take on the Elegoo Neptune 4 or 4 pro?
Never used it, so I can't say. Elegoo has been acceptable in the past, but Sovol was acceptable until this travesty.
@@3dpprofessor thanks
I have found the Kobra 2 Pro to be very good.
I picked up one of these about a month ago, and had a couple of weeks where I was pulling my hair out as it would not print correctly... turned out that I followed the manual for the bed accelerometer testing and the sensor was on backwards?? I also have had no issues with material sticking to the surface of the bed, PETG/PLA with no issues. thank you for outlining a couple of issues which will need to be addressed. as I get the y layer shift from time to time. overall, it did exceed my expectations but its defiantly not an entry level printer. definitely one for someone who had one or 2 before. or have a really good understanding of 3d printing...
The accelerometers I have used had arrows marked on it to ensure correct alignment. Is the problem with the manual or the sensor?
Will you be testing the Elegoo Neptune 4? I'd like to see how it compares to this
They haven't offered to send me one. Honestly, though, I'm about done with bed slinging accelerated printers.
They do seem like a lazy way to make a fast printer, especially the new Creality Ender 3 V3 SE, they claim 500mm/s printing and 18 minute benchies with only 2 4015 part cooling fans
This printer arrived yesterday after I placed a preorder. Without any prior knowledge, I put it together and levelled the bed in less than one hour, and it hasn't stopped printing since. As this is my first 3D printer, I am unable to compare print quality, but I think everything came out quite nicely. I also printed a few of my own models and had no issues.
It might be the case that you got a lemon, but I think you didn't even try to put in any effort, and the fact that you didn't find the tool drawer at the bottom is a dead giveaway.
P.S. I watched all the videos about this 3D printer, and from what I can tell, they listened to the feedback, one example being that mine came with an extra PEI plate and metal twizers.
I wish mine came with an extra PEI plate and metal tweesers.
@@3dpprofessorMine did as well? That's odd the company should reach out to you and send you these items. Idk if it was a bundle but my little brother's has one as well and it came with the parts, they also weren't listed on the site I got them from so it was odd.
I believe they ship with some optional hard mounts that replace the springs and make it fixed like the SV06 build plate. Might be worth trying those out before getting different springs or silicone mounts.
Another thing to keep in mind is that the inductive sensor needs the build plate to have that layer of metal, so the cheap build surface mounted directly to a magnet don’t work with them.
As far as I know the SV07 isn't shipping at all right now. It's still in preorder. So maybe they'll fix these issues with options like this.
But I can only review the machine I was sent.
@@3dpprofessor I got mine yesterday, they are definitely shipping in Europe.
@@mpauls85 Let me know if your experience is like mine, or more like Angus' or others who are having a good time. I just wonder if I got a lemon.
@@3dpprofessor It is not like yours. It is my first 3D printer and it honestly has been a breeze so far. But my last experience was at university 12 years ago and "damn" those printers sucked...
I had some bed adhesion problems at the beginning. From what I have read 50°C bed temperature is a little bit on the low-end for PLA. I upped it to 60°C and now, five successful prints in a row later, they are gone. And I just finished printing a gridfinity 5x5 baseplate without any additional brims, and I even had to change filament mid print because it was empty. That thing basically covers the whole printbed and is only held in place by thin beams.
Using the accelerometer is not necessary, SOVOL has put an input shaper profile on the printer. It would only be necessary of you changed the resonance frequency of the machine by adding weight to an axis or having it on an unstable surface.
I have not yet experienced any of the other issues, it worked "out of the box". I got mine during the pre-sale for 299$ including tax and shipping and I couldn't be happier.
Had the same issue with my sv06 plus. No klipper but the same dam issues. Sent it back and trying something that will actually work.
Suggestion for bed adhesion... might seem crazy, but I'm guessing the build plate you got was "dirty".
Basically there is an invisible oil / substance that's making the adhesion misbehave regardless of your Z offset.
I recently had this problem with a printer and it took me over a month to eventually diagnose and solve
Just was the plate with hot soapy water, scrubbing the textured side with a soft toothbrush.
Afterwords, as an extra measure I'll occasionally touch it up with a light scrub from a magic eraser for fine sanding / smoothing to ensure the texture is as uniform as possible.
I do this now every 10 - 25 prints and haven't really had anymore bed adhesions issues.
Hope that helps!
I'll give that a try on my SV04, which also has bed adhesion problems.
I did try isopropyl alcohol, which usually fixes it, but it did not in this case. Though, doing that every 10 prints or so seems like a lot of work.
@@3dpprofessor I used rubbing alcohol before and it did clean it most of the time when I first got the printer. But, it can't fully clean the plate. The oil or contaminents that build up go aren't usually that visible (sometimes a slight sheen or darkness in areas that see a lot print coverage). I thought my plate was clean and was getting so frustrated because I had tried everything else. Most forms of additional bed adhesion, dozens of calibarations, and many printer tweaks. But after scrubbing it with the above method, my next print stuck on like a rock. I was blown away and have been sharing the knowledge ever since. You can probably us isopropyl for intermittent cleaning but maybe every 25 prints or so, give it a good cleaning. I should also not that I'm doing this on a PEI textured magnetic plate, not glass or smooth but it would probably help with those as well.
I had similar problem as well and long time I cannot figure out where is problem until I tried simply clean when plate is cold with very warm sponge, simply like that - hot side absorb from cold. I also added little bit cheap sugar soap and later over clean with water, it does magic
I just bought an extra accelerometer, and just unplug the one on the head and moved it to the bed one, and leave both on, except unplugged.
Having owned a Sovol SV06+ where I’ve experienced their quality, design and customer support I would definitely recommend people to stay clear from these printer clones.
Nothing is free in life. What you don’t pay in money, you pay with your time. I ended up giving up on my printer after 3 months of troubleshooting with several parts being shipped to me from China which took ages.
I’ve spent more filament on trying to do calibration than actually printing things I wanted. Everything from upgraded fan duct, cable strain, Z align tools, different calibration models etc.
I found myself waste entire weekends on just debugging this printer. There was always something wrong with the prints. I went from 3D printer novice to expert in a 3 months crash course of owning this printer. Almost memorized all the settings that can be modified in SuperSlicer as well.
Sure, your Sovol may be good. But take a look at your print volume. Any printer is good if you just print a benchy once a month.
Here is my list:
print bed came so warped, that the ABL could not compensate. It literally would put the Grand Canyon to shame. The silicone bed level mod partially helped. But it was still not level enough.
Z motors get out of sync if the print is long enough.
The planetary gear inside my extruder for some unknown reason got warped/stripped.
The original firmware was buggy, and was never able to memories a correct Z offset. No matter how many times, or different permutations I used. Installing Klipper helped greatly on this.
And the latest addition, where I finally gave up, one of the stepper motors said bye bye.
Oh yeah, and the whole experience was deafening. Their PSU fan runs at 100% all the time. Even at idle. Knowing how a computer PSU works, the only answer to this is that the PSU quality is trash.
I gave up on contacting Sovol support. They respond whenever they feel like it. Usually once every 3-5 days. I don’t have the patience for that. Not to mention I also have to wait 1+ month to receive any spare parts because they use the cheapest shipping possible.
Don’t be like me. I used to be naive and believe the many reviewers who were disingenuous enough to call this the “Prusa killer”
I am now ready to smash this printer with a hammer. But I’m waiting until I receive my Bambu printer first.
Obrigada pelo seu comentário, no Brasil falam pouco sobre este modelo e tudo que eu queria saber, você disse! Não quero perder meu valioso dinheiro na minha primeira impressora e vir com tantas dores de cabeça.
I agree. I'd be happy with 100mms and I don't think that's too much to expect. I have the money for an x1 but I've kept putting it off as it's not what I need. I bought a mixed signal oscilloscope last time I was gonna hit purchase in the cart on the bambu site. Mind you the scope is worth 3 of them but I don't need those speeds as I said.
They have a deal on them right now for 269 on their site, which is a lot more reasonable price for what you get.
Very entertaining. Unless, you know, you’re at Sovol watching in a conference room with the boss. Thanks.
They could either take this as a challenge to improve, or decide to never work with me again. Either way, I'm good.
wait... i never notices that you had to manual bed level... why the backwards step?
That's not backwards. Bed levelling and mesh compensation are not the same thing. Both are needed if you want the most accurate parts.
I'm okay with having both as an option.
got an ender 3, an anycubic kobra 2 neo, and just got a refurbished from sovol sv07 and i can honestly say I do not see myself purchasing any other brand of printer after having the sovol for even just a week. the print quality is light years ahead of the other two and its a little over twice as fast as my anycubic which i initially got for speed to make products more consistently but now with the sovol i barely need the other two for products cuz not only is it wayyyy faster than the original ender and my kobra 2 but the quality is second to none, i havent tried to many filaments but for pla, pla+, and petg so far i would highly recommend it and itr has every bell and whistle you can think of, for anyone and everyone looking for a printer id say to get a refurbished sovol, they test them and fix any and all issues before they leave the warehouse so for a discounted price and a functional product you cant do any better than this. now its time for sovol to come onto the enclosed printer scene and make their own k1 or x1c and theyd really have some weight in the arena.
I have an old TiVo tornado, which is it best marginally reliable. One thing I did find out from the user groups and has helped immensely is to change the springs for bed leveling. So that is not all that and unusual occurrence for a 3D printer.
Not when they're building to a price point, and not to a, you know, quality level.
@@3dpprofessor fortunately the different colored Springs was a pretty inexpensive fix but I agree with you
Your actual issues, not "I couldn't find a drawer because it "blended in too well" despite the fact that it has a handle, boil down to not knowing how to use Klipper. The biggest risk for these printer manufacturers in moving to Klipper right now is just these dinosaur reviewers not knowing how to use it. The reason others are having success and you did not, is not because you have a lemon, but because you have no idea how to properly use Klipper.
You also do not factor the cost, available via coupon at all times for $299, yet you keep comparing it to Bambu who's printers starts at $599.
I hardly had any issue with Klipper. My issues were that they pushed out a crap machine that didn't work. The accelerometer required unscrewing body screws, the bed didn't remain level, and the Y-Axis tensioner didn't remain tight. What I didn't mention what their baffling choice to go back to V-Slot wheels after using linear rails on the SV06 and the fact that they forgot in their slicer profile to put a M90 in the start GCode so every once in a while a script would leave it in relative movement mode resulting in an error when you tried to print, which is just negligent and demonstrates that they never actually tested this machine out before putting it in the hands of consumers.
But I like the Klipper interface.
@@3dpprofessor Its not start gcode it's a start macro and.. G90? I assume you mean M83? That's a problem with your slicer settings, again rooted in a lack of understanding of Klipper. The printer was keeping you from dumping the spool on the bed.
I'd think Klipper should be _running_ the printer, not standing in way.
(That's how it probably works, in reality, no special attention needed, unless manufacturer has done stupid things with configuration)
Do ya still use the sovol 7 printer
Nope. Ditched it as soon as this video was over.
However, I handed it to someone who fixed it up and is apparently quite impressed with it once he got it running. So it went to a good home.
@@3dpprofessor did u just not Like the design or ?
@@monsterstorm78 15:14 death by 1000 cuts.
People were rightly disappointed that the SV07 wasn't an SV06 with Klipper, a faster flow nozzle and improved part cooling. Maybe that's what the SV08 will be?
SV07 Pro more likely
your the best, thanks
I have the Sovol 6 which basically looks and performs like my Prusa MK3. Why did they go backwards on the 7? Hardened rails is a step forward isn't it, but they went back to roller wheels on Aluminium rails. I said to a friend going faster WILL cause problems in the long run it has too. At least the Prusa has a crash alarm and stops! Call me slow but who won the race with the tortoise and the hare?
I expect they had two teams developing these products separately.
they did not go backwards. This "prof" is a tool
I haven't had as much trouble with the bed...but everything was loose on mine. Including a grub screw on one of the stepper motors. They also told me that putting the accelerometer on it was for "experts" and not needed because they have some basic input shaping pre-installed. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I mean, by that logic this whole printer is for "experts".
This is a new brand!
Screw(up)vol
Thanks for your review!
I'm laughing particularly with the skull
They are a subsidiary of Creality.
Ii was considering sovol and bamboolabs, and I passed on both in favor of 5 $80 vanilla ender 3s. They're cheap, reliable, easy to fix, and they print well. If you have a shop to run the last thing you need is to spend all your time trying to get good prints out of an over engendered machine no matter how cool it may be
Not sure I'd say an Ender is the reliable option, but the price is right.
@@3dpprofessor I guess that would depend in the version of the control board that came with it. I wonder how much creality saved on their clone stm32 chips?
50mm/s vs 500mm/s hell even at 250mm/s not 4 enders ($320) would compare to the speed or the quality of a singular sovol sv07(New $290,used $220). id recommend snipping a refurbished sv07 off the sovol site and see if it takes you but an hour to get a perfect print out of it. not to mention coming with practically every bell an whistle you could imagine for a bedslinger to have that would roughly cost the price of the sovol to get all that on just one ender. im only speaking from experience as i have both printers and am baffled by the differences even with the mods ive made to my ender.
@@tuufarYeah same I have one ender 3 with a homemade direct drive for soft filament and another Bowden for ridged filament. Glass plates and pei plates. As well as better adjustment knobs. Even just the small upgrades (firmware specifically) makes a world of difference.
If you have been printing as long as you have, and you don't disassemble every hot end, apply Anti seize to all threads and screw heads, Loctite all extruder set screws, and take an inside and around look at the overall build before printing, you aren't experienced...you have good luck lol.
Not knocking the professor, just saying guys...these are mass produced printers that need you to know them better than you do with your lawnmower.
EDIT:
We are buying cheap, and much higher quality printers these days. That is not a replacement for prevention...about 3 ounces in this case. Just make sure to go over everything. make sure your nozzles are flat where they mate with the heat break...make sure that is flat too. Look at hidden screws and blue Loctite them after degreasing them. Lube your bearings and adjust those pom wheels and belts so they are as silky as possible. Lucas gun oil with a needle tip at an auto parts store will not drip like WD40...it sticks...and can handle temperature. It is also easy to apply. Act like you care about the money you spent.
I would rather wait a couple weeks and get all the quality replacement parts that I choose, than have a massive failure on an important overnight print and also have to order replacement parts but from warranty service. I bought a cheap printer...imma make it good:)
Maybe 10 years ago that would be the case, but these days I've had printers from FlashForge and Weefun and a handful of others that just work and work for years with minimum maintenance.
One of the 3 stated goals of this channel is to encourage 3d printer manufacturers to be better. Sure I *can* do day 1 upgrades to make a printer reliable. I could also ride a horse to work each day. But I chose to live in the future.
@@3dpprofessor I want what you want, but they still aren't there yet...by a long shot.
I live in the future lol, I am a pre-crime detective for 3d printers!
I loved your honest manufacturers video too, thank you for that.
you just saved me before i was going to empty my pocket
Why is the video so misty looks like 70s soft focus 😊
I'm glad someone said something. I tried shortcutting my usual video making process by shooting this one on my phone and I noticed that as well in editing. I don't think it likes the lighting setup in my makershed.
Actually drawer and all tools in it are on the fourth page of the manual sooooo someone didn't even take a peek and complains.
Not on mine. They changed the manual because of this video.
You do need a different mindset if you are an early adopter.
@@petercallison5765 that's an excellent point.
And as long as they're learning and adjusting, that's good.
That might be it @3dpprofessor . I don't know if I have missed it but what was Your printing material Sir? I have zero problems printing with PETG on this printer but a lot of similar problems to the one in this test printing with ABS. Don't know if I should even try ASA.
@@deciver5 I tested it with PLA.
I don't know why I don't buy SV07 but instead I have SV06 PLUS modified with Klipper. Works ok, just start slow. Not buying SV07 is the plastic on it, thinking it might expanded due to heat, I don't know..
Prusa uses plastic with no problems.
Thank you for an honest review, I currently have an SV04 with a Creality glass bed cos prints didn't stick, that's probably what the 07 needs too, I also have an SV06 with the pei plate, both now have reasonable reliability, I have wondered about upgrading to Klipper on these machines, but maybe it's a case of if it ain't broke, don't fix it 👍
As someone that works in research, dealing with standard operating procedures, work instructions and technical writing - that's my biggest pet peeve. Lack of any documentation, or accurate documentation / instructions on 3D printers. They slap these machines together, hope your Facebook friends will answer your questions and move on to the next big machine coming out in 90 days. So frustrating.
And Facebook as requirement is infuriating already.
Hmm, I just wanted to recommend this printer as an option to other people after seeing positive reviews (of course mentioning that I don't have experience with it). Then I found this. Interesting. I also didn't know that Sovol doesn't have the best reputation. I have an Artillery Genius and thought this one here would be so much better than mine.
I had high hopes when I started with it.
This is the kind of printer the hobby should have evolved beyond by this point.
I mean, yes, but on the other hand, no.
Like, we should always be pushing boundaries and we can expect those first steps to be rough. But if you're building a printer to compete with Bambu, one thing that made them awesome was that it was well built and sufficiently tested.
Yes and no, if you pay twice as much then yes, otherwise no. At the price point it is still in DIY bracket of printers.
Hell no, if it needs tinkering to work decent then is not evolution, is BS
Oof, I’ve got an SV06 and a Plus that work great, but the SV07 seems like a pretty big step back in a lot of ways.
Oh man, that skull.
This printer worth buying
I feel different, but it's okay If you're up for it, enjoy it.
wonderful your experience is exactly the same as mine, so glad I got this shipped from the US to AU, what a waist of money and as i am not a printing guru I cant fix it and now its going in the bin
Reviews are supposed to be objective to help potential consumers make a decision. This video felt like my wife was throwing a tantrum. Thank god I'm not married.
Can't imagine why not.
I think this video did its job. When the biggest issues are the drawer is hidden you know it's a good buy.
You think the drawer was the biggest issue? 15:05 The biggest issue with this machine was all the issues with this machine.
@@3dpprofessor why would you see a layer going down poorly on day 1 and nod restart it? I agree, it sounds like a petty hit job.
@@spyrit35 Is it petty to expect better from a company that had just released a printer, the SV06, that didn't have any of these issues. One of the stated goals of this channel is to improve 3d printing in general. If I excuse things like a half baked accelerometer system, substandard springs on their leveling system that goes out of leveling during the first print after they're leveled, as well as the Y-axis tensioner loosening over time, and inadequate user documentation, then I would be lying to you and being untrue to the purpose of this channel.
Ja was ich mir dachte bleib da bei meinen sv06.
Finally an honest review for SV07
or a reviewer affiliated with the competition. count how many times brand names are mentioned. Suspicious
Well then! I thought I was on my own island with my review of this train wreck of a machine. I posted my review, then watched everyone else say how awesome of a machine it is. Now I feel more justified after watching your review. Thanks for sharing your experience 👍
I don't think they'll be using either of our reviews on their page.
@@3dpprofessor - Yeah, I highly doubt it 😆! I just do not know how others didn't point out what we did? Guess they received a better machine, and far better communication from Sovol.
I don't care about how fast it is, I just care about how accurate it can print. How much it can do non traditional printing without star stepping. How complete it can print a hole in any position.
What have you found to be the most precise?
Once you have used a fast printer you can't go back.
First time viewing one of your videos. Sorry, too snarky for me. But you do you and good luck with the channel.
Snarky as I wanna be.
Why should you have to make a brand new printer better or at least work right out of the box?
Yes, why would anyone want something that does what it says it can do.
What Bambu Labs has shown the 3D community is that 99.9% of printer companies have been taking advantage of the print community by selling absolute crap to us.
No, What Bambu has shown us is that you can sell an over priced, unsecure, closed system with absolutly horable customer service and people will still worship you LOL!
There is something untrustworthy happening here. Talking about not being able to find your memory stick in the drawer as a negative? You saw a first layer going down poorly and not only let it continue, but abandon it for long enough on the 1st day that plastic wraps around your nozzle? And putting a screw into a hole in a bracket, then removing it is not difficult for normal people considering that very few printers have accelerometers.
Untrustworthy, huh?
I'm giving you my 100% honest experience an opinion. I'm not holding anything back. If that's not worthy of trust, I don't know what to say.
The hidden drawer..
Thanks. Where I live there are armies of people who work on multimillion dollar mansions for the sole purpose of hiding anything useful, like light switches and electrical outlets. They are called Faux Painters.
Followed by the tech geeks who do same on their LCD screens that then force you through 3 to 5 layers of menus just to turn on the bloody bathroom light.
/rant
It is not fast if a 3D print fails and it has to be 3D printed again
Listening to your bickering about screws and the drawer, I really feel sorry for your wife.
Oh, you should hear here when she gets started about people's driving! We're quite a pair.
Doesn't make no sense to buy that printer and then put money into it might as well just buy a voron
You're not wrong. Though, if you add up the cost, can you get a comperably capable voron fully assembled for the same price?
How much per hour do you value your time? 30 plus hours for a Voron is only for hobbyists/enthusiasts@@3dpprofessor
Another half-baked Sovol product from a country notorious for half-baked products, designed by engineers so smart they couldn't possibly be so stupid as to do all of the harebrained things that still plague 3-D printers. Is the goal to waste the time of customers?
The goal is to give people a price they want and a technically functional 3D printer so they won't immediately ask for their money back. Which I guess they succeeded.
Elegoo is much better
High jumping over a limbo bar, there.
I'm so sick of springs and knobs on beds
What's the alternative, and which one has it?
@@NoidoDev silicon standofts are more stiff
@@NoidoDev there's a bunch of bedslingers without knobs and springs. Most are too expensive for what they are though.
I understand what you were trying to tell us.
DON'T BUY IT!
Listen, I don't want to be the guy who's always negative about stuff. I'm sure there's someone out there that this is perfect for. Other's are having a good time with it. I just want to manage expectations.
(Buy, for real, don't buy it.)
Sovol fails again, color me surprised