Finally a simple to the point explanation, I have a terrible vibation over 65mph and I now feel like I can measure the angles and hopefully correct it, my upper control arms are adjustable so that should help.
@@motopsycho6169 No I still have a significant vibration starting at 70 mph, both trans output shaft and rear diff pinion are set at 3.6 degrees. I cannot shim the rear trans mount as the u-joint is already very close to the tunnel. The car has been lowered so the driveshaft actually runs uphill to the differential at about 1 degrees. Driveshaft was trued and balanced (new U-joints), pinion yoke has no play in it, wheels were checked for wobble, tires were replaced and balanced, driveshaft splines at the trans have minimal movement. The only thing I have not checked is for a bent axle flange, I would appreciate any advice because I am out of options here.
@@fuhrstpuhl3278 Does it happen in any gear? Are you sure it's not RPM based? Could very wel be bent axels. I changed mine out due to a minor bend in them. I'm hunting a vibration in my LS swapped foxbody at 2700-3000rpm for the past year+, I've changed everything except the motor and trans at this point lol. I'm just waiting for it to blow up
@@fuhrstpuhl3278sometimes the vibration can be caused at the u joint, or an imbalance at the driveshaft. It's not always pinion angle that causes vibration.
@@fuhrstpuhl3278 Helped a friend with a similar vibration on his 67 Camaro. What we found after a whole bunch of parts changing and measuring was the 12 bolt drive shaft yolk was not machined properly right from GM. We tried wheel balancing, driveshaft balancing, rear end shaft change, pinion angle measurement, all with no luck. Then one day I was looking at the 12 bolt yolk with the driveshaft off and I could see the u joint pockets were not symmetrical. Bought a new yolk and problem solved.
Hello. I put 2.5 drop coil springs on my 62 impala and drive shaft rubs on rear floor tunnel. Before I shim it up should I change all my rear and front bushings? Or that wouldn't make a difference?
@@jaimevarillas6329 unfortunately, if you move the differential yoke upward its going to get it closer to the floor. you might be better off lowering the yoke to where the operating angles on the u joints are as strait as possible.
Great video. I'm fighting a little vibration, and I'll use your technique to verify my angles. 👍 Update: It worked. I found that my pinion was pointed down by 1.4* and my transmission was down by 2.2*. No bueno. I've ordered the adjustable upper control arms to resolve this. Guys like you, make neighbors think I know what I'm doing. 😈😉
Great video, exactly what i was looking for, but i have a question... My mustang has independent rear suspension, can i check these angles on a 2 post lift without faulty readings?
Excellent video. Thank you. No need to watch any other videos for this application. Which is a rarity. I normally have to gather information from several videos and come up with my own plan. But not this one. Everything is covered. Thanks pal
Great video but you didn't say how to find pinion angle of the reared sits higher the the transmission. I'm building a ratrod and it's really low. My rear axle yoke is definitely higher the the out put of the transmission and the motor and transmission is running down hill at 3 degrees. How do I figure this out?
Thank you for the well made and very informative video. I've been fighting an issue with a new build for weeks. Looking forward to getting back at it tomorrow
Sketch at 6:00 does not show proper out of 'phase'. Do you check the crank pulley in different positions? It is also part of Harmonic Balancer I believe. Rubber mounted. Great explanation. Diff and Trans shafts should be Parallel.
after getting the angles to your specs, shouldn't the pinion be lowered a bit from there to compensate for pinion rise on acceleration?? especially on a muscle car. Robert Crispell
Thank you for the simple explanation! I just did a QA1 coilover conversion on my 83 C10 and have been trying to find an explanation of how to set pinion angle. Thanks for the 3 simple rules towards the end.
@@SangheiliSpecOp I had a bad accident, lucky to walk, at that point, but never had the desire after that. I've always lived in cities, downtown especially, where cars are a liability.
@@stepchildofsoul i see... I'm very sorry to hear about your accident and I'm glad you are still able to walk! I can see why you wouldn't want to drive anymore after that. Plus you live in a city so I do suppose it's that that bad. Cars can be such financial drains, I have to make car and insurance payments, I just spent $2k in parts for an upcoming clutch replacement job I have to do, and my car is somewhat of a gad guzzler too. I live in Florida though and everything is spaced apart so you need to drive pretty much (at least where I live). Good on you for going on that long without one. It also probably leads to a more active lifestyle too
Very interesting! Can't wait to get my driveline back in my 56 Chevy, so I can check this out! wonder what the angle is from the factory, as I am using factory mounts and rear end?
Excellent vid however I’m still not sure. I have 4 degrees down at trans -1degree at shaft - 4degrees up at rear pinion. Am I good? I have a coil over 4 link setup , it seems you say in the vid if the front and rear measurements are the same they cancel out, however mine are the same but one is up and one is down so I’m not sure if that’s what you meant by the same. Any help is appreciated. Car is up on blocks until I figure this out.
He said motor/trans point down 3degrees or less but no less that .5. Pinion points up, same spec but no more that 1degree delta, parralell is better. Your U-joints have operating range specs. So the distance between these parrallel vectors will change the DS angle. That is, you can be parrallel on a lowered or stock ride hieght street car and probably be well within spec for the u-joint since the distance beteen the parralel vectors is may just a couple of 2 or 3 inches, if that. But, on a rasied 4x4 truck, that parralell distance will be much greater and your DS angle very extreme.
Very good job explaining everything. Thanks for the info on the angle finder from the toolbox 🧰. I’m 63 and been messing with vehicles as long as I can remember, I was taught to level the intake as close as u could to level the carb and get the best angle for your driveline. Like to see one on leaf springs. Great video 👍
Just a tip...You should address whether the setup is a W or a Z config. You are correct as far as a Z config goes but most cars have a W config on the shaft. The upper arms will be too short to accommodate as well as the prop shaft may contact the floor in certain instances. The same also works in the overhead view...you need a consistent setup (W or Z) in BOTH planes for the joints to be happy. Nice video and presentation...hope this helps.
Great video!! I just installed a Gear Vendor in my 66 Chevelle. Vibrates at about 65 and up. Guess I was hoping to get lucky with the pinion angle. I am going to use this instruction and see what happens. Will post the results. Thanks again!!
Hoping you got some good results - and any info. found as I am considering GV for my 70 502 which is currently backed by Art Carr 200-4r that was great for years, but installing a Tstorm single and stout cam.
Thanks. I just put 4.56 in my car, now it vibrates like crazy at 65mph. I noticed my rear diff is pointed down and so is my trans. I just ordered adjustable upper control arms to hopefully bring my diff up to match the trans angle.
Did you fix it?! I bought a 01 trans am and a new rear-end was put in along with new driveshaft and torque-arm and all that stuff. It vibrates around 60mph+ Right now it’s -3 on trans and -3 on pinion. I need help I can’t figure it out I brought it to a couple shops too I can’t find out the right angle
72 Chevelle here with a TKO600… I was told by a circle track guy to keep the pinion angle slightly down. So I have a downward trans and a downward pinion. I’ve been chasing this vibration for a few years now and I’ve never been told to point the pinion up. It all makes sense now.
While watching your video I am wondering how I have been successfull in my ventures without this knowledge. I have converted two different coil spring rear ends to leafe springs and installed them in my 67 g10 van. No vibrations from either one and the second one has been in use more than 10 years with no u joint failures. I angled the differential to suit my eye and welded the spring perches in place. Tape was used for left right balance and parallel with front axil. Going to recheck soon with this method. Thank you.
Great info, thank you. Need advise please. I'm unsure on how I'll be able to get an accurate angle to weld the perches on the rear end. I'll try to explain as brief as I can. Have a 1940 Ford pickup down to frame. Installed mustang 2 front end with setup rods and lower controll arms are currently parallel to floor as suggested by Heidts. Istalled leafs in the rear and using a flathead engine, C4 trans and 9" rear end. I can only guess on what the ride height will be because there is no wheels or weight on it. The only thing I can think of is keeping centerline of axles the same dimension off floor and hope that would be the correct thing to do?
Nice video. A bit different but have been chasing a vibration under hard accel on my Jeep after a small lift. I know I need a double cardan on the rear to help but I measured anyway and found my vibe.. I had an operating angle on the rear driveshaft of 8.3 and my pinion was a degree off the drivetrain. I have adjustable arms and dialed a degree out of the pinion to match the 5.5 degree powertrain angle, now have 7.3 operating angle with a bit less vibration but still there.
Great vid. But one thing I never see anyone explain is the left to right adjustments. This is great for up and down, but what about left to right? Not all differentials and transmissions are perfectly centered in the middle. Any thought or help with this? Thanks!!
Great video, best out there. Can you please please do a video to explain when you have a 2 piece driveshaft. Like all 59-60 Cadillacs have etc. there are so many (include me) that have driveshaft vibrations. How to compensate for that middle bearingmount inside the frame?? thx in advance / Roger
To my understanding, carburetor pad on most street intake manifolds 3 to 3.5 degrees. That instructs fairly well regarding engine setup which the driveline must mesh with.
Fantastic this guy knows what he is talking about so well explained just one thing I didn’t get the name off that app as I am nearly deaf please can you inform brilliant video please let me know buddy cheers Larrysullivan in london
I changed leaf springs on the rear of my 72 charger. also changed front shackles too. Then had a 3.90 ring and pinion installed. Ever since then (2018) the car had this vibration you could feel when u let off the throttle in 4th gear at highway speeds of 55-60 mph. It seemed to smooth out when u got back in the throttle but it was ever so slightly still there. New transmission mount, new cut and balanced driveshaft too by a reputable driveline service company. I recently realized the front leaf spring shackles were in the 1.5" lowering position. I Switched it back to the original ride height mount on the shackle and the vibration is still there but not quite as prominent. At this point i plan to check my pinion angle and engine/trans angle. from what i am understanding the angles need to be as close to equal but opposite ? my buddy recently redid the ring and pinion for me too and he thinks the pinion is too deep in the ring gear but i have found information suggesting that a ring and pinion wont vibrate , only howl or make noise. Great video by the way. i look forward to checking my angles. I have a suspicion that the newer leafs and trans mount could have thrown my angles off. In any case i figure it be best to check all angles and make sure they are in an acceptable range before it messes up the new ring and pinion. what are your thoughts? thank you
at the very beginning before you measured your 2.5 degrees on the crank pulley, what did you zero out your electronic angle finder on to say this is level prior to finding your 2.5 degrees?
Thank you for this. I have a 69 Daytona clone 572 Hemi auto moser Dana 60. I added a gear vender shortened drive shaft (reputable 6 states) 3 Degree eng tran, the drive line goes up hill to the dana that is set at 1 degree with leaf that under load in drive I think is going up past 3. My car is low. Vibration at 55 I put 2 degree shims - perch - it did help, but not quite. I’m thinking 1/2 more degree would put it level, but under load in gear will bring it back to 3 degrees? Your thoughts? I’m on TH-cam Dane Wing - to see my stance I can wait to use that app.
Hi just watched your video, has helped me understand the principle behind the angles, I am using hydraulic rams and engine is set a 3 degrees and Will be setting ride height about 2” of the ground on my 53 Chevy BelAir the rams have approx 6” travel up and about 2” down from ride height they have 8” travel total, do you have any suggestions for setting up this arrangement for example when I drive down the road with back end down and front up about 5” what will the pinion angle be like for driving ? Thanks Mark
Great video well presented. You mentioned that you a basing the pinion angles on rear coil springs. What is the degree tolerance when using rear leaf springs to allow for wrap up under torque?
Thank You sir for this straight forward information. Just subscribed to your channel. An old hot rodder told me set up engine angle about 3 degrees (downward) just like your explanation. Great 👍 information, I’m setting up my driveline in me 54 Chevy 3100 now. Definitely using your video for information.
I've always heard point the nose of the rear end up 1-3 degrees. If you point a go-pro at your 3rd member and go for a drive, you'll see that the pinion angle changes quite a bit under load.
You should consider mentioning whether or not a double cardan is used up front; if it is then having parallel angles with the front and rear does not apply. The pinion should be inline with the drive shaft in this case
I have a question. When you took your reading off of the balancer you gave the number but you didn't tell if it was positive or negative on the balancer?
Any information on centering or offset drive train. As in GM offset to passenger side, re: 3rd member, transmission, and engine? In other words the Camaro rear end is offset between a half and 1 inch to the pass. side, Do you also need to move the trans. and the engine to the pass. side as well. This is a 53 chevy 3100 original frame, IFS.
Very informative but I have a two piece drive shaft on my 1963 C10, which ai have lowered. Can you explain how to figure out this same process for the two piece drive line?
I found this informative and I don't think you are wrong but I have a few comments. All the text and manufacture information I have ever referenced always measured the front and rear u-joint angles at the u-joint bearing cap. If 1/2 of a degree is critical (which it is) I don't think the front pulley or the diff flange dust shield are very precise and I have seen a lot of bent metal rulers that are not flat. Maybe a precision straight edge instead of a metal ruler. When measuring at the u-joints first the slip yoke at the transmission, then the driveshaft yoke near the transmission. Followed by the differential yoke compared to the driveshaft yoke near the differential. For years I have used a 1 degree difference between front and rear however over the past 5 to 6 years someone pointed me to a reference specification of 1/2 of a degree difference so that is now what I use. You do advise everyone to have that difference as small as possible, that is great. The 2 degrees engine down and 2 degree diff up work great for stock cars and light trucks but for a truck that has been raised with large tires there is a limit to engine angle adjustment and the rear diff will need a greater tilt upwards value than the engine tilt down value and it's unlikely to keep the u-joints less than 3 degrees so we try to keep is as small as possible. This is just the reality if someone wants to raise their vehicle above factory curb height. Noting that the 2 degree up/down does not apply to a vehicle with a modified curb height. Finally, I thought by the title you would show how to actually change the pinion angle to meet the desired measurements.
My husband thanks you for confirming what he felt was true, but was continually told otherwise. Appreciate the help!
You are so welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Finally a simple to the point explanation, I have a terrible vibation over 65mph and I now feel like I can measure the angles and hopefully correct it, my upper control arms are adjustable so that should help.
how did that turn out? did it get rid of your vibration?
@@motopsycho6169 No I still have a significant vibration starting at 70 mph, both trans output shaft and rear diff pinion are set at 3.6 degrees. I cannot shim the rear trans mount as the u-joint is already very close to the tunnel. The car has been lowered so the driveshaft actually runs uphill to the differential at about 1 degrees. Driveshaft was trued and balanced (new U-joints), pinion yoke has no play in it, wheels were checked for wobble, tires were replaced and balanced, driveshaft splines at the trans have minimal movement. The only thing I have not checked is for a bent axle flange, I would appreciate any advice because I am out of options here.
@@fuhrstpuhl3278 Does it happen in any gear? Are you sure it's not RPM based? Could very wel be bent axels. I changed mine out due to a minor bend in them. I'm hunting a vibration in my LS swapped foxbody at 2700-3000rpm for the past year+, I've changed everything except the motor and trans at this point lol. I'm just waiting for it to blow up
@@fuhrstpuhl3278sometimes the vibration can be caused at the u joint, or an imbalance at the driveshaft. It's not always pinion angle that causes vibration.
@@fuhrstpuhl3278 Helped a friend with a similar vibration on his 67 Camaro. What we found after a whole bunch of parts changing and measuring was the 12 bolt drive shaft yolk was not machined properly right from GM. We tried wheel balancing, driveshaft balancing, rear end shaft change, pinion angle measurement, all with no luck. Then one day I was looking at the 12 bolt yolk with the driveshaft off and I could see the u joint pockets were not symmetrical. Bought a new yolk and problem solved.
You are a great teacher.Simple,straight to the point.I like the three things to remember.
Thank you for this!
right to the point for anyone to understand . finally a info video that was not a waste of time. thanks !!
Very good information. Most impressive is the way you present it. Very well spoken. Easily understood. You are a great presenter. Well done.
Thank you Roger! I really appreciate the compliment and the support!
Hello. I put 2.5 drop coil springs on my 62 impala and drive shaft rubs on rear floor tunnel. Before I shim it up should I change all my rear and front bushings? Or that wouldn't make a difference?
@@jaimevarillas6329 unfortunately, if you move the differential yoke upward its going to get it closer to the floor. you might be better off lowering the yoke to where the operating angles on the u joints are as strait as possible.
Great video. I'm fighting a little vibration, and I'll use your technique to verify my angles. 👍
Update:
It worked. I found that my pinion was pointed down by 1.4* and my transmission was down by 2.2*. No bueno.
I've ordered the adjustable upper control arms to resolve this.
Guys like you, make neighbors think I know what I'm doing. 😈😉
Glad we could help! Thanks for the support!
obviously someone who Knows what their talking about, no guessing, thanks
I watched other videos and no one mentioned numbers, what's good,what's bad. Thanks, great video.
Great video, exactly what i was looking for, but i have a question... My mustang has independent rear suspension, can i check these angles on a 2 post lift without faulty readings?
FANTASTIC. JUST THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF INFO FOR THE SPECIFIC SUBJECT. MUCH MORE FOR DIFFERENT APLICATIONS
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video. Thank you. No need to watch any other videos for this application. Which is a rarity. I normally have to gather information from several videos and come up with my own plan. But not this one. Everything is covered. Thanks pal
Thanks for the feedback Blair! Much appreciated!
Nice that Dodge/Chrysler set the pinion angle on my challenger to blow out the pinion seal every 20,000 miles. Fun job!
Good video, well explained. Clean and short.Thank you!
Thank you for the support!
Great video but you didn't say how to find pinion angle of the reared sits higher the the transmission. I'm building a ratrod and it's really low. My rear axle yoke is definitely higher the the out put of the transmission and the motor and transmission is running down hill at 3 degrees. How do I figure this out?
Curious too..
Good information and great delivery to make this easily understood. Great video
Best video on the topic i seen so far.. Good job buddy
Thank you for the well made and very informative video. I've been fighting an issue with a new build for weeks. Looking forward to getting back at it tomorrow
Sketch at 6:00 does not show proper out of 'phase'. Do you check the crank pulley in different positions? It is also part of Harmonic Balancer I believe. Rubber mounted. Great explanation. Diff and Trans shafts should be Parallel.
after getting the angles to your specs, shouldn't the pinion be lowered a bit from there to compensate for pinion rise on acceleration?? especially on a muscle car. Robert Crispell
Straight to the point, easy explanations, no BS. This earned a Sub!
Thank you!!
Thanks for the great video
Thank you I am looking to what may change if I lower rear end
I never ever learned this much in such a little time like this
thanks!!
Thank you for the simple explanation! I just did a QA1 coilover conversion on my 83 C10 and have been trying to find an explanation of how to set pinion angle. Thanks for the 3 simple rules towards the end.
I just finished my 83 c10 as well , what was your results?
I haven't driven a car since 1989, probably never will again, but this is interesting to me and your presentation was informative and easy to follow.
Why haven't you driven a car in so long?
@@SangheiliSpecOp I had a bad accident, lucky to walk, at that point, but never had the desire after that. I've always lived in cities, downtown especially, where cars are a liability.
@@stepchildofsoul i see... I'm very sorry to hear about your accident and I'm glad you are still able to walk! I can see why you wouldn't want to drive anymore after that. Plus you live in a city so I do suppose it's that that bad. Cars can be such financial drains, I have to make car and insurance payments, I just spent $2k in parts for an upcoming clutch replacement job I have to do, and my car is somewhat of a gad guzzler too. I live in Florida though and everything is spaced apart so you need to drive pretty much (at least where I live). Good on you for going on that long without one. It also probably leads to a more active lifestyle too
Awesome info. What happens if I set the angle up with a level frame and not actual road height. Does that change the angle
Very interesting! Can't wait to get my driveline back in my 56 Chevy, so I can check this out! wonder what the angle is from the factory, as I am using factory mounts and rear end?
Great info, hope to see a video about a leaf spring car pinion angle setup.
Excellent vid however I’m still not sure. I have 4 degrees down at trans -1degree at shaft - 4degrees up at rear pinion. Am I good? I have a coil over 4 link setup , it seems you say in the vid if the front and rear measurements are the same they cancel out, however mine are the same but one is up and one is down so I’m not sure if that’s what you meant by the same. Any help is appreciated. Car is up on blocks until I figure this out.
He said motor/trans point down 3degrees or less but no less that .5. Pinion points up, same spec but no more that 1degree delta, parralell is better. Your U-joints have operating range specs. So the distance between these parrallel vectors will change the DS angle. That is, you can be parrallel on a lowered or stock ride hieght street car and probably be well within spec for the u-joint since the distance beteen the parralel vectors is may just a couple of 2 or 3 inches, if that. But, on a rasied 4x4 truck, that parralell distance will be much greater and your DS angle very extreme.
So damn helpful. Think I may just have discovered the source of driveline vibration in my 70 Boss 302!
Was this your issue?
Did you find the problem?
Solid info! It's a misunderstood thing - the amount of difference it can make in your car is unreal at speed.
Agreed!
Great video. I understand all of this, its explained and very informative. My question is where on the car did you zero out the angle finder.
Finally some clarity, thank you sir!!
Thank you for a great video. I have the app now.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the feedback!
Very good job explaining everything. Thanks for the info on the angle finder from the toolbox 🧰. I’m 63 and been messing with vehicles as long as I can remember, I was taught to level the intake as close as u could to level the carb and get the best angle for your driveline. Like to see one on leaf springs.
Great video 👍
Thanks Timmy!!!
Is the center line from trans to differential also a factor of alignment? Later line trans to diff.
Loved your presentation. I have 71 GMC c10 truck. Do all those rules still apply with a two piece drive shaft?
Thanks so much for this video. I was so confused how to set my pinion angle. Especially with the tremec app. You've explained it very well.
Glad it helped!
Just a tip...You should address whether the setup is a W or a Z config. You are correct as far as a Z config goes but most cars have a W config on the shaft. The upper arms will be too short to accommodate as well as the prop shaft may contact the floor in certain instances. The same also works in the overhead view...you need a consistent setup (W or Z) in BOTH planes for the joints to be happy. Nice video and presentation...hope this helps.
Great video!! I just installed a Gear Vendor in my 66 Chevelle. Vibrates at about 65 and up. Guess I was hoping to get lucky with the pinion angle. I am going to use this instruction and see what happens. Will post the results. Thanks again!!
Hoping you got some good results - and any info. found as I am considering GV for my 70 502 which is currently backed by Art Carr 200-4r that was great for years, but installing a Tstorm single and stout cam.
Very interesting! Any hints on a dual pieces driveshaft?
this video is great, put things in simple terms that the shade tree guy can understand.
Thanks. I just put 4.56 in my car, now it vibrates like crazy at 65mph. I noticed my rear diff is pointed down and so is my trans. I just ordered adjustable upper control arms to hopefully bring my diff up to match the trans angle.
Did you fix it?! I bought a 01 trans am and a new rear-end was put in along with new driveshaft and torque-arm and all that stuff. It vibrates around 60mph+
Right now it’s -3 on trans and -3 on pinion.
I need help I can’t figure it out I brought it to a couple shops too I can’t find out the right angle
Dude,off the pully is Hella smart, I been using the small output shaft.thanks
72 Chevelle here with a TKO600… I was told by a circle track guy to keep the pinion angle slightly down. So I have a downward trans and a downward pinion. I’ve been chasing this vibration for a few years now and I’ve never been told to point the pinion up. It all makes sense now.
Excellent well-spoken and informative. Going to use your tips and see where she sits. Thank you. Great job. I learned alot👍✌🇺🇸
Awesome video!! im just starting a hotrod project and that was extremely informative and helpful thank you!!
While watching your video I am wondering how I have been successfull in my ventures without this knowledge. I have converted two different coil spring rear ends to leafe springs and installed them in my 67 g10 van. No vibrations from either one and the second one has been in use more than 10 years with no u joint failures. I angled the differential to suit my eye and welded the spring perches in place. Tape was used for left right balance and parallel with front axil. Going to recheck soon with this method. Thank you.
the best video on this subject ive ever found, good job!
Subscribled!
Thank you so much! That is much appreciated! Cheers!
That is some good information. Thanks for the tip on the ap
Nice job on the video. I found it very helpful. Thank you.
Thank you for the video - i thought inline straight was the way, bad vibration all speeds going to get it right now
Great info, thank you.
Need advise please. I'm unsure on how I'll be able to get an accurate angle to weld the perches on the rear end. I'll try to explain as brief as I can.
Have a 1940 Ford pickup down to frame. Installed mustang 2 front end with setup rods and lower controll arms are currently parallel to floor as suggested by Heidts. Istalled leafs in the rear and using a flathead engine, C4 trans and 9" rear end. I can only guess on what the ride height will be because there is no wheels or weight on it. The only thing I can think of is keeping centerline of axles the same dimension off floor and hope that would be the correct thing to do?
Nice video. A bit different but have been chasing a vibration under hard accel on my Jeep after a small lift. I know I need a double cardan on the rear to help but I measured anyway and found my vibe.. I had an operating angle on the rear driveshaft of 8.3 and my pinion was a degree off the drivetrain. I have adjustable arms and dialed a degree out of the pinion to match the 5.5 degree powertrain angle, now have 7.3 operating angle with a bit less vibration but still there.
what should the 3 numbers you mentioned be for a leaf spring car ( a daily driver and or a racer). thank you. Robert
Well Done, concise and explicit.. I shall now double check engine angle using front pulley
Thanks Jeff!
Great video I'm working on a 36 Chevy that has a shake at 60 will checking allll that
Great vid. But one thing I never see anyone explain is the left to right adjustments. This is great for up and down, but what about left to right? Not all differentials and transmissions are perfectly centered in the middle. Any thought or help with this? Thanks!!
Great info. I have a 41 ford with an 8 inch rear end and parallel leave springs. How should I set the pinion angle?
excellent video ! do you have one with leaf springs ? im about to narrow my 8.8 and would love more confidence building videos such as this
Great video, best out there. Can you please please do a video to explain when you have a 2 piece driveshaft. Like all 59-60 Cadillacs have etc. there are so many (include me) that have driveshaft vibrations. How to compensate for that middle bearingmount inside the frame?? thx in advance / Roger
I was wondering the same thing…. I have a two piece driveshaft on my 1963 C10 truck.
Excellent video! Very smart man. Thanks.
Thank you!
To my understanding, carburetor pad on most street intake manifolds 3 to 3.5 degrees. That instructs fairly well regarding engine setup which the driveline must mesh with.
Fantastic this guy knows what he is talking about so well explained just one thing I didn’t get the name off that app as I am nearly deaf please can you inform brilliant video please let me know buddy cheers Larrysullivan in london
Thank you Larry! I really appreciate it! The app is the Tremec Toolbox app: www.tremec.com/menu/tremec-toolbox-app/ I hope that helps!
Excellent, to the point information presented in a clear concise presentation. THANK YOU !!
I changed leaf springs on the rear of my 72 charger. also changed front shackles too. Then had a 3.90 ring and pinion installed. Ever since then (2018) the car had this vibration you could feel when u let off the throttle in 4th gear at highway speeds of 55-60 mph. It seemed to smooth out when u got back in the throttle but it was ever so slightly still there. New transmission mount, new cut and balanced driveshaft too by a reputable driveline service company. I recently realized the front leaf spring shackles were in the 1.5" lowering position. I Switched it back to the original ride height mount on the shackle and the vibration is still there but not quite as prominent. At this point i plan to check my pinion angle and engine/trans angle. from what i am understanding the angles need to be as close to equal but opposite ? my buddy recently redid the ring and pinion for me too and he thinks the pinion is too deep in the ring gear but i have found information suggesting that a ring and pinion wont vibrate , only howl or make noise. Great video by the way. i look forward to checking my angles. I have a suspicion that the newer leafs and trans mount could have thrown my angles off. In any case i figure it be best to check all angles and make sure they are in an acceptable range before it messes up the new ring and pinion. what are your thoughts? thank you
best video on this complex topic. TY
Excellent presentation! Thank you.
at the very beginning before you measured your 2.5 degrees on the crank pulley, what did you zero out your electronic angle finder on to say this is level prior to finding your 2.5 degrees?
Great Video, Can you share the name of the app you mentioned for the angle finder? Thanks.
Sure! www.tremec.com/menu/tremec-toolbox-app/
How would you work it out for a 2 piece drive shaft
Spicer site has options for multiple drive shafts.
Great video. 1 question, do you zero your angle finder before you start?
Thank you for this. I have a 69 Daytona clone 572 Hemi auto moser Dana 60. I added a gear vender shortened drive shaft (reputable 6 states) 3 Degree eng tran, the drive line goes up hill to the dana that is set at 1 degree with leaf that under load in drive I think is going up past 3. My car is low.
Vibration at 55
I put 2 degree shims - perch - it did help, but not quite.
I’m thinking 1/2 more degree would put it level, but under load in gear will bring it back to 3 degrees? Your thoughts?
I’m on TH-cam Dane Wing - to see my stance
I can wait to use that app.
I was halfway through this before realizing that none of it applies to my car. But it was so well presented that I just kept watching. 🤣👍
Is your setup leaf springs?
Hi just watched your video, has helped me understand the principle behind the angles,
I am using hydraulic rams and engine is set a 3 degrees and Will be setting ride height about 2” of the ground on my 53 Chevy BelAir the rams have approx 6” travel up and about 2” down from ride height they have 8” travel total, do you have any suggestions for setting up this arrangement for example when I drive down the road with back end down and front up about 5” what will the pinion angle be like for driving ? Thanks Mark
Well done , thank you - Australia !
Awesome video. Helped a lot swaping my Abody 8.2 Axle in my gbody malibu!
Glad it helped!
Great video well presented.
You mentioned that you a basing the pinion angles on rear coil springs. What is the degree tolerance when using rear leaf springs to allow for wrap up under torque?
Yup....no videos anywhere about leafs
Thank You sir for this straight forward information. Just subscribed to your channel. An old hot rodder told me set up engine angle about 3 degrees (downward) just like your explanation. Great 👍 information, I’m setting up my driveline in me 54 Chevy 3100 now. Definitely using your video for information.
Hello Jeremy, can we share notes, I have a 3100 that I’m building.
@@rollitex3055 sure, however I can help.
@@jeremymoran5123 I wanted to ask you if you remember how many degrees did you set your pinion Angle, I’m in the process of doing that on my 49.
I've always heard point the nose of the rear end up 1-3 degrees. If you point a go-pro at your 3rd member and go for a drive, you'll see that the pinion angle changes quite a bit under load.
You should consider mentioning whether or not a double cardan is used up front; if it is then having parallel angles with the front and rear does not apply. The pinion should be inline with the drive shaft in this case
Thanks you made it so simple to understand.
Cheers & stay safe
Thanks! Happy to help!
Great video thanks a bunch.Very nicely explained.
I have a question. When you took your reading off of the balancer you gave the number but you didn't tell if it was positive or negative on the balancer?
Fantastic explanation 💪 😎 Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Clear , concise and very informative. Thanks
You made it very easy to understand thank you
Any information on centering or offset drive train. As in GM offset to passenger side, re: 3rd member, transmission, and engine? In other words the Camaro rear end is offset between a half and 1 inch to the pass. side, Do you also need to move the trans. and the engine to the pass. side as well. This is a 53 chevy 3100 original frame, IFS.
Can you do a video on how to measure a custom size drive shaft for custom trans/engine combos video?
So would you want a tiny bit less angle up on the rearend even on a 4 link? Just for driveline torque. At least error that direction?
Great info, clear, concise, easily understood. Thanks, Jack
Thank you so much! Glad it was helpful!
Very informative but I have a two piece drive shaft on my 1963 C10, which ai have lowered. Can you explain how to figure out this same process for the two piece drive line?
Great vid... i have annoying vibration in my chevelle... im trying to correct it asap
Ok so if im understanding, my engine is 3.5* down, i want my pinion 3.5* up?
3.5* up looks like rear is pointing down. Because you measure front of car to back.
excellent info, would the concept apply to a truck on leafs?
would like to know aswell
100% right on! Great video!
Great information for my build!!
Well explained you answered my question on how to set the motor and trans and rear awesome video
Very nice work ,great video thanks for sharing
Thanks for the feedback John! We appreciate the support!
I learned something today. Thank you.
Glad to hear it! Thanks Dirk!
Awesome video you made it easy to understand I've always had a slight vibration definitely going to have a closer look at those angles thanks
I found this informative and I don't think you are wrong but I have a few comments. All the text and manufacture information I have ever referenced always measured the front and rear u-joint angles at the u-joint bearing cap. If 1/2 of a degree is critical (which it is) I don't think the front pulley or the diff flange dust shield are very precise and I have seen a lot of bent metal rulers that are not flat. Maybe a precision straight edge instead of a metal ruler. When measuring at the u-joints first the slip yoke at the transmission, then the driveshaft yoke near the transmission. Followed by the differential yoke compared to the driveshaft yoke near the differential. For years I have used a 1 degree difference between front and rear however over the past 5 to 6 years someone pointed me to a reference specification of 1/2 of a degree difference so that is now what I use. You do advise everyone to have that difference as small as possible, that is great. The 2 degrees engine down and 2 degree diff up work great for stock cars and light trucks but for a truck that has been raised with large tires there is a limit to engine angle adjustment and the rear diff will need a greater tilt upwards value than the engine tilt down value and it's unlikely to keep the u-joints less than 3 degrees so we try to keep is as small as possible. This is just the reality if someone wants to raise their vehicle above factory curb height. Noting that the 2 degree up/down does not apply to a vehicle with a modified curb height. Finally, I thought by the title you would show how to actually change the pinion angle to meet the desired measurements.