How to properly set up and measure your Pinion Angle on your Muscle Car
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video Nick discussed some of the techniques used to properly measure and c calculate your pinion angle on your street driven, coil sprung muscle car. Below are the links to the tools mentioned int he video that you can use to setup your own pinion angle in your hot rod, classic car, or muscle car.
Spicer website link: spicerparts.co...
Tremec App download: www.tremec.com...
Have any questions about how to setup your own pinion angle? Leave a comment!
#classicnation #pinionangle #customcars
Finally a simple to the point explanation, I have a terrible vibation over 65mph and I now feel like I can measure the angles and hopefully correct it, my upper control arms are adjustable so that should help.
how did that turn out? did it get rid of your vibration?
@@motopsycho6169 No I still have a significant vibration starting at 70 mph, both trans output shaft and rear diff pinion are set at 3.6 degrees. I cannot shim the rear trans mount as the u-joint is already very close to the tunnel. The car has been lowered so the driveshaft actually runs uphill to the differential at about 1 degrees. Driveshaft was trued and balanced (new U-joints), pinion yoke has no play in it, wheels were checked for wobble, tires were replaced and balanced, driveshaft splines at the trans have minimal movement. The only thing I have not checked is for a bent axle flange, I would appreciate any advice because I am out of options here.
@@fuhrstpuhl3278 Does it happen in any gear? Are you sure it's not RPM based? Could very wel be bent axels. I changed mine out due to a minor bend in them. I'm hunting a vibration in my LS swapped foxbody at 2700-3000rpm for the past year+, I've changed everything except the motor and trans at this point lol. I'm just waiting for it to blow up
@@fuhrstpuhl3278sometimes the vibration can be caused at the u joint, or an imbalance at the driveshaft. It's not always pinion angle that causes vibration.
@@fuhrstpuhl3278 Helped a friend with a similar vibration on his 67 Camaro. What we found after a whole bunch of parts changing and measuring was the 12 bolt drive shaft yolk was not machined properly right from GM. We tried wheel balancing, driveshaft balancing, rear end shaft change, pinion angle measurement, all with no luck. Then one day I was looking at the 12 bolt yolk with the driveshaft off and I could see the u joint pockets were not symmetrical. Bought a new yolk and problem solved.
FANTASTIC. JUST THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF INFO FOR THE SPECIFIC SUBJECT. MUCH MORE FOR DIFFERENT APLICATIONS
Glad it was helpful!
Nice that Dodge/Chrysler set the pinion angle on my challenger to blow out the pinion seal every 20,000 miles. Fun job!
Thanks. I just put 4.56 in my car, now it vibrates like crazy at 65mph. I noticed my rear diff is pointed down and so is my trans. I just ordered adjustable upper control arms to hopefully bring my diff up to match the trans angle.
Did you fix it?! I bought a 01 trans am and a new rear-end was put in along with new driveshaft and torque-arm and all that stuff. It vibrates around 60mph+
Right now it’s -3 on trans and -3 on pinion.
I need help I can’t figure it out I brought it to a couple shops too I can’t find out the right angle
To my understanding, carburetor pad on most street intake manifolds 3 to 3.5 degrees. That instructs fairly well regarding engine setup which the driveline must mesh with.
While watching your video I am wondering how I have been successfull in my ventures without this knowledge. I have converted two different coil spring rear ends to leafe springs and installed them in my 67 g10 van. No vibrations from either one and the second one has been in use more than 10 years with no u joint failures. I angled the differential to suit my eye and welded the spring perches in place. Tape was used for left right balance and parallel with front axil. Going to recheck soon with this method. Thank you.
Good video, well explained. Clean and short.Thank you!
Thank you for the support!
My husband thanks you for confirming what he felt was true, but was continually told otherwise. Appreciate the help!
You are so welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Very good information. Most impressive is the way you present it. Very well spoken. Easily understood. You are a great presenter. Well done.
Thank you Roger! I really appreciate the compliment and the support!
Hello. I put 2.5 drop coil springs on my 62 impala and drive shaft rubs on rear floor tunnel. Before I shim it up should I change all my rear and front bushings? Or that wouldn't make a difference?
@@jaimevarillas6329 unfortunately, if you move the differential yoke upward its going to get it closer to the floor. you might be better off lowering the yoke to where the operating angles on the u joints are as strait as possible.
Excellent, to the point information presented in a clear concise presentation. THANK YOU !!
Sketch at 6:00 does not show proper out of 'phase'. Do you check the crank pulley in different positions? It is also part of Harmonic Balancer I believe. Rubber mounted. Great explanation. Diff and Trans shafts should be Parallel.
Great video. I'm fighting a little vibration, and I'll use your technique to verify my angles. 👍
Update:
It worked. I found that my pinion was pointed down by 1.4* and my transmission was down by 2.2*. No bueno.
I've ordered the adjustable upper control arms to resolve this.
Guys like you, make neighbors think I know what I'm doing. 😈😉
Glad we could help! Thanks for the support!
obviously someone who Knows what their talking about, no guessing, thanks
I've heard the same thing from MANY other "professionals" as well.. They always say "Equal But OPPOSITE". Every single factory vehicle that we work on at my shop will have a NEGATIVE pinion angle-meaning pinion nose will be pointing DOWN towards the ground towards the front of the vehicle. NEVER HAVE I EVER encountered a factory vehicle that had the pinion nose pointing UP.. NEVER HAVE I EVER... I understand that people BELIEVE the two angles need to be equal and opposite to cancel each other out.. However, I've never seen that out here in the real world from any auto manufacturer... Can you explain why this is? These vehicles seem to be working just fine with many having over 200K miles and still on the original factory U-JOINTS. I'm really confused as to how this can be.
Excellent vid however I’m still not sure. I have 4 degrees down at trans -1degree at shaft - 4degrees up at rear pinion. Am I good? I have a coil over 4 link setup , it seems you say in the vid if the front and rear measurements are the same they cancel out, however mine are the same but one is up and one is down so I’m not sure if that’s what you meant by the same. Any help is appreciated. Car is up on blocks until I figure this out.
He said motor/trans point down 3degrees or less but no less that .5. Pinion points up, same spec but no more that 1degree delta, parralell is better. Your U-joints have operating range specs. So the distance between these parrallel vectors will change the DS angle. That is, you can be parrallel on a lowered or stock ride hieght street car and probably be well within spec for the u-joint since the distance beteen the parralel vectors is may just a couple of 2 or 3 inches, if that. But, on a rasied 4x4 truck, that parralell distance will be much greater and your DS angle very extreme.
3 degrees, it's always been three degrees. What is the angle of descent of a jetliner coming in for a landing? ........ 3 degrees
You are a great teacher.Simple,straight to the point.I like the three things to remember.
Thank you for this!
Great video, exactly what i was looking for, but i have a question... My mustang has independent rear suspension, can i check these angles on a 2 post lift without faulty readings?
Great video but you didn't say how to find pinion angle of the reared sits higher the the transmission. I'm building a ratrod and it's really low. My rear axle yoke is definitely higher the the out put of the transmission and the motor and transmission is running down hill at 3 degrees. How do I figure this out?
Curious too..
Your operation angles are going in different directions under acceleration....car must have traction issues. Ignore the driveshaft angle, if the crank centerline is pointed down at 2.5 deg, the pinion should be pointed up 1 deg. That gives the pinion (1.5 deg) of room to move up under load and not put stress on the u joints.
May i ask you somthing,my angle at gearbox is 5deg down and rear pinion 16 up..i would like my rear axle with a shim..how manny deg do i need?thank you and greetz from the Netherlands
@@josbremer9966 What kind of car/truck ...what rear suspension...4 link ..ladder bar.. Leaf spring?
It is a suburban square body 4x4 1979..leaf springs and one sollid axle.
@@josbremer9966 I would say that rear end came out of a short wheel base jacked 4x4 ...? Anyway I personally would run it at 2 deg up pointing at the tail shaft of the gearbox, which is about 3 deg of pinion angle. If the truck is close to stock ride height.
@@jcnewbee8124 my truck is a chevy suburban square body 1979 and long wheelbase..it is lifted 6inch on 37inch wheels.front and rear leafsprings.thank you for thinking this over
You should consider mentioning whether or not a double cardan is used up front; if it is then having parallel angles with the front and rear does not apply. The pinion should be inline with the drive shaft in this case
So damn helpful. Think I may just have discovered the source of driveline vibration in my 70 Boss 302!
Was this your issue?
Did you find the problem?
How would you work it out for a 2 piece drive shaft
Spicer site has options for multiple drive shafts.
Solid info! It's a misunderstood thing - the amount of difference it can make in your car is unreal at speed.
Agreed!
1970 Chevelle street strip car. I have both angles the same 2 degrees but, engine/trans is pointed down and rear differential is pointed down. In other words the yolk is pointed down. I think that makes them not parallel. I have a pretty wicked low speed ( around 40 mph) vibration. Could this be the cause?
This means you have a negative pinion offset of 4 degrees. On a leaf spring car this is about perfect for strip launches. On street you will have some driveline vibrations. On a street car with leaf springs you should have about 1-2 degrees offset. You would need to shim your rear axle pinion up 2 degrees for that. If it is a 4 link car you would want 1 degree offset. So you would shim your rear axle pinion up 3 degrees.
I've always heard point the nose of the rear end up 1-3 degrees. If you point a go-pro at your 3rd member and go for a drive, you'll see that the pinion angle changes quite a bit under load.
Ok so if im understanding, my engine is 3.5* down, i want my pinion 3.5* up?
3.5* up looks like rear is pointing down. Because you measure front of car to back.
Is the center line from trans to differential also a factor of alignment? Later line trans to diff.
Great info, hope to see a video about a leaf spring car pinion angle setup.
Nice video. A bit different but have been chasing a vibration under hard accel on my Jeep after a small lift. I know I need a double cardan on the rear to help but I measured anyway and found my vibe.. I had an operating angle on the rear driveshaft of 8.3 and my pinion was a degree off the drivetrain. I have adjustable arms and dialed a degree out of the pinion to match the 5.5 degree powertrain angle, now have 7.3 operating angle with a bit less vibration but still there.
I found this informative and I don't think you are wrong but I have a few comments. All the text and manufacture information I have ever referenced always measured the front and rear u-joint angles at the u-joint bearing cap. If 1/2 of a degree is critical (which it is) I don't think the front pulley or the diff flange dust shield are very precise and I have seen a lot of bent metal rulers that are not flat. Maybe a precision straight edge instead of a metal ruler. When measuring at the u-joints first the slip yoke at the transmission, then the driveshaft yoke near the transmission. Followed by the differential yoke compared to the driveshaft yoke near the differential. For years I have used a 1 degree difference between front and rear however over the past 5 to 6 years someone pointed me to a reference specification of 1/2 of a degree difference so that is now what I use. You do advise everyone to have that difference as small as possible, that is great. The 2 degrees engine down and 2 degree diff up work great for stock cars and light trucks but for a truck that has been raised with large tires there is a limit to engine angle adjustment and the rear diff will need a greater tilt upwards value than the engine tilt down value and it's unlikely to keep the u-joints less than 3 degrees so we try to keep is as small as possible. This is just the reality if someone wants to raise their vehicle above factory curb height. Noting that the 2 degree up/down does not apply to a vehicle with a modified curb height. Finally, I thought by the title you would show how to actually change the pinion angle to meet the desired measurements.
Great video, best out there. Can you please please do a video to explain when you have a 2 piece driveshaft. Like all 59-60 Cadillacs have etc. there are so many (include me) that have driveshaft vibrations. How to compensate for that middle bearingmount inside the frame?? thx in advance / Roger
I was wondering the same thing…. I have a two piece driveshaft on my 1963 C10 truck.
Great vid. But one thing I never see anyone explain is the left to right adjustments. This is great for up and down, but what about left to right? Not all differentials and transmissions are perfectly centered in the middle. Any thought or help with this? Thanks!!
the best video on this subject ive ever found, good job!
Subscribled!
Thank you so much! That is much appreciated! Cheers!
Thank you for this. I have a 69 Daytona clone 572 Hemi auto moser Dana 60. I added a gear vender shortened drive shaft (reputable 6 states) 3 Degree eng tran, the drive line goes up hill to the dana that is set at 1 degree with leaf that under load in drive I think is going up past 3. My car is low.
Vibration at 55
I put 2 degree shims - perch - it did help, but not quite.
I’m thinking 1/2 more degree would put it level, but under load in gear will bring it back to 3 degrees? Your thoughts?
I’m on TH-cam Dane Wing - to see my stance
I can wait to use that app.
What is your advise when using a Jaguar IRS rear? The pinion on the diff is not centered left to right, it's offset to the passenger side. Also note that the diff input flange NEEDS to be vertical, 90 degrees to the road. This is to keep the control arm pivots correct. In my application I also have the engine/trans at 0 and the same height as the diff input flange. Meaning crankshaft, trans, diff input are all in a straight line HORIZONTALLY. There is a few inches offset left/right, but still parallel. The driveshaft is very short, about 18". Oh, and the diff center is solid mounted, does not move with suspension travel so no change in pinion / driveshaft angle.
Very good info & presentation. Most that Ive seen stumble at best through the process spewing mis information. More very important basics need to be mentioned such as both angles CANNOT be on the same plane
I watched other videos and no one mentioned numbers, what's good,what's bad. Thanks, great video.
Fantastic this guy knows what he is talking about so well explained just one thing I didn’t get the name off that app as I am nearly deaf please can you inform brilliant video please let me know buddy cheers Larrysullivan in london
Thank you Larry! I really appreciate it! The app is the Tremec Toolbox app: www.tremec.com/menu/tremec-toolbox-app/ I hope that helps!
I have a 69 El Camino and am getting rear wheel hop. 383 Stroker, throttle body efi, 410 12 bolt posii and 4 speed auto electric transmission. All of my racing buddies tell me that I should have the pinion pointing down 1-3 degrees ???
You covered this well but, you lacked the "why" In this subject.
It's a very difficult concept to grasp, 🤔 ng that two mechanical connected pieces of metal can travel at different speeds and different pulses of power?
I mean if you got a chain connected to a gear it will always travel the same distance no matter what, right?
Yes because the chain has a constant circular pattern and multiple points of power transfer. But
A drive shaft has 4 point and when angles has larger or smaller circular patterns. Meaning at certain angles the yokes of the shafts can be travelling faster or slower depending on the relation to each other regardless of mechanical connection.
So you get pulses, vibration, jumps, skips, bad times....
Here is the best video I found showing what I just described l..
m.th-cam.com/video/Idk3BVDVHq4/w-d-xo.html&pp=ygUSZHJpdmVzaGFmdCBwaGFzaW5n
Hi.. I have a jet sprint boat with engine rigid mounted and a short telescopic drive shaft 188mm lenght that goes to jet uni drve shaft1350 u joints each end. . My angle finder on the block .. which is just a dummy block no crank.. shows. .7 up on block ...the jet unit .6 up. I don't have a crank to attach shaft to but holding it rough in place i stick my angle finder on shaft... it appears to show 6 degrees up. I've downloaded that app. Cheers.. just wondered your thoughts on those measurement
I'm checking because have to raise motor and appearance of shaft more up.. was concerned. Any thoughts ?
Excellent video. Thank you. No need to watch any other videos for this application. Which is a rarity. I normally have to gather information from several videos and come up with my own plan. But not this one. Everything is covered. Thanks pal
Thanks for the feedback Blair! Much appreciated!
Very interesting! Can't wait to get my driveline back in my 56 Chevy, so I can check this out! wonder what the angle is from the factory, as I am using factory mounts and rear end?
I have an f-350 2001ford dually also have airbags and would like to know if traction bars would help my truck pull a big ass horse trailer with living quarters?
I have a 2001 GMC sierra 2 Piece Driveshaft The front of the motor degree is three transmission is 3° in between the middle going to wars the Differential is 9° The truck is drop n has springs A 5/12 drop can I fixed it without using airbags
I get that you end up with parallel vectors when the Engine and Pinion are at the same angle say 2 degrees in opposite directions UP vs Down. When thats true does that put the driveshaft at 0 degrees? Mine is 4-link coil-over.
Loved your presentation. I have 71 GMC c10 truck. Do all those rules still apply with a two piece drive shaft?
Here's a tip lads check any movement in the differential input shaft, if you have run your car with the vibration I have wrecked to sets of bearings setting mine.
As I had put a new bearing in I thought it was the wheels out of true causing the vibration.
I accidentally put my hand on the propshaft and the new bearing was shot.
if this were important then Gas Monkey, Rust Valley, Rust to Riches and all the other shows that I have spent 14,000 hours watching would have covered it!!!! I cant believe I got this beer gut for nothing!
Haha!
Very interesting! Any hints on a dual pieces driveshaft?
Great video. I understand all of this, its explained and very informative. My question is where on the car did you zero out the angle finder.
So you're saying the number off of the balancer should match exactly the number that you get off the rear output shaft. So if the balancer was at 2.5° negative than the output shaft should be at 2.5° negative.
Very good job explaining everything. Thanks for the info on the angle finder from the toolbox 🧰. I’m 63 and been messing with vehicles as long as I can remember, I was taught to level the intake as close as u could to level the carb and get the best angle for your driveline. Like to see one on leaf springs.
Great video 👍
Thanks Timmy!!!
after getting the angles to your specs, shouldn't the pinion be lowered a bit from there to compensate for pinion rise on acceleration?? especially on a muscle car. Robert Crispell
The drive shaft should be square to the ground
Setting the pinion angles at rest seems ti miss the idea that when the car is under load even at 70MPH, the angle would be changed. Don't we need to account for the position of the rear pinion angle when loaded?
I have a question. When you took your reading off of the balancer you gave the number but you didn't tell if it was positive or negative on the balancer?
Yes, the rear suspension needs to be weighted. The front does not as it has no effect
on the angle of the trans. As long as the rear suspension is at ride height it doesn’t matter if the front suspension is loaded or unloaded. You are comparing the angle of the trans to the pinion angle, not to horizontal. So the target angle of the trans is misleading since most cars have a forward rake.
I know your talking street not drag car. But with a 4 link suspension, won’t you see around 3 deg of rotation of the axle when accelerating. So instead of engine and rear at exact same angle. You would move the pinion angle down maybe 2 deg to have a better pinion angle during acceleration
Yes, with a drag car, I've heard the same.
what should the 3 numbers you mentioned be for a leaf spring car ( a daily driver and or a racer). thank you. Robert
Excellent video! Very smart man. Thanks.
Thank you!
Awesome info. What happens if I set the angle up with a level frame and not actual road height. Does that change the angle
Start with the top of the carb. level.... Motor mount and transmission mount determines that....
Good info thanks
The crank pulley measurement probably won’t work on a sidesaddle engine
Why no follow up discussion on the “Shaft” operating angle- Kinda glossed over❓❓
Great info, thank you.
Need advise please. I'm unsure on how I'll be able to get an accurate angle to weld the perches on the rear end. I'll try to explain as brief as I can.
Have a 1940 Ford pickup down to frame. Installed mustang 2 front end with setup rods and lower controll arms are currently parallel to floor as suggested by Heidts. Istalled leafs in the rear and using a flathead engine, C4 trans and 9" rear end. I can only guess on what the ride height will be because there is no wheels or weight on it. The only thing I can think of is keeping centerline of axles the same dimension off floor and hope that would be the correct thing to do?
I think the part that confuses people is how its explained. In your example the diff is sloped down just like the engine. Slope= from front of car to back. The pinon pointing up and the rear cover pointing down is a downward slope.
I did a flip kit on the rear of my truck..idk the degrees yet but the pinion is pointed slightly up and looking from side POV it seems the rearend is actually higher that the tail of the transmission..thus creating the driveshaft to go downwards towards the transmission creatinga V downwards for transand driveshaft..which at this point the transmission seems to be pointed way down and I'm at a loss for words ..I got a bad side to side vibration in the seat of pants at 45 to 50 ..question is should I be shimming the transmission up in this situation?
Yes, my initial thought would be to make sure your transmission is pointing down at the same angle that your diff is pointing up, regardless of the fact that your driveshaft will be running uphill to the trans. Shim that transmission up to match the diff angle and see if that cures that vibration. You mentioned flip kit, so I know you have leaf springs which act differently under load than coil springs but this should get you close.
@@ClassicNation thanks ill try that..I was always taught to tilt pinion slightly down so when under load it doesn't wrap upwards to much...but never been in this situation to were the driveshaft fors upwards...thanks
@@BeardsandCars Sure thing! Let me know how it turns out!
Do you have one on leaf springs? Or do you know of a good video I can watch? Also what about a drive shaft with two different sized ujoints. I had to upgrade to a larger ujoint on the trans side and left the exisiting ujoint on the rear end side to be the same as it came with. Is there a problem with having a larger ujoint on the trans side? Thanks.
Thanks so much for this video. I was so confused how to set my pinion angle. Especially with the tremec app. You've explained it very well.
Glad it helped!
Hello Nice to meet you .
My name is Shotaro JAPAN
Im thinking at the pinion angle now
My car
I saw youtube!!
1970 Camaro
LS1 engine pinion angle down 2 degrees↓
The drive shaft is 1 degree up ↑
The differential angle is 2degrees ↑
my CAMARO has noise and vibration.
Looking at the SPICER or TREMEC page,
I didn’t know how to fix it, can you tell me ?
I don’t understand English so I use google translate.
The rear suspension is speedtech torque arm.
GM 12bolt differential
Were you able to download the Tremec app and test it against your current settings?
So at my crank its 2.3 and my rear end points downwards and reads 2.1 Am i good ?
Does the phone app actually work since you have to take the angles with the phone?
I changed leaf springs on the rear of my 72 charger. also changed front shackles too. Then had a 3.90 ring and pinion installed. Ever since then (2018) the car had this vibration you could feel when u let off the throttle in 4th gear at highway speeds of 55-60 mph. It seemed to smooth out when u got back in the throttle but it was ever so slightly still there. New transmission mount, new cut and balanced driveshaft too by a reputable driveline service company. I recently realized the front leaf spring shackles were in the 1.5" lowering position. I Switched it back to the original ride height mount on the shackle and the vibration is still there but not quite as prominent. At this point i plan to check my pinion angle and engine/trans angle. from what i am understanding the angles need to be as close to equal but opposite ? my buddy recently redid the ring and pinion for me too and he thinks the pinion is too deep in the ring gear but i have found information suggesting that a ring and pinion wont vibrate , only howl or make noise. Great video by the way. i look forward to checking my angles. I have a suspicion that the newer leafs and trans mount could have thrown my angles off. In any case i figure it be best to check all angles and make sure they are in an acceptable range before it messes up the new ring and pinion. what are your thoughts? thank you
Great video thank you
Hi just watched your video, has helped me understand the principle behind the angles,
I am using hydraulic rams and engine is set a 3 degrees and Will be setting ride height about 2” of the ground on my 53 Chevy BelAir the rams have approx 6” travel up and about 2” down from ride height they have 8” travel total, do you have any suggestions for setting up this arrangement for example when I drive down the road with back end down and front up about 5” what will the pinion angle be like for driving ? Thanks Mark
72 Chevelle here with a TKO600… I was told by a circle track guy to keep the pinion angle slightly down. So I have a downward trans and a downward pinion. I’ve been chasing this vibration for a few years now and I’ve never been told to point the pinion up. It all makes sense now.
Hi,could you please help.
I own a 70 mustang street car,my rear differential is currently at 0 perfectly level and the purchases are not welded yet. My transmission is at .8 facing down
Are these angels ok? Thanks Rick
I have a car that I am replacing a 2 piece driveshaft with a one piece due to the original 2 piece shaft u-joints being unserviceable. I have a 5.0 degree down angle on the transmission, a 4.2 degree down driveshaft angle and a 5.0 degree up angle on the differential. My #1 operating angle is 0.8 and the #2 operating angle is 0.8. I know 2.0 degrees is the goal but I just can't get it. Will this work?
Any information on centering or offset drive train. As in GM offset to passenger side, re: 3rd member, transmission, and engine? In other words the Camaro rear end is offset between a half and 1 inch to the pass. side, Do you also need to move the trans. and the engine to the pass. side as well. This is a 53 chevy 3100 original frame, IFS.
Ok i have a 1969 chevelle the rear of the frame suspension and and solid mounted deferential is from a 1976 corvette with stock single leaf spring. The motor and trannsmission are from a 2013 Camaro. My question is when i tore the vette apart i saw that the driveline was perfectly straight from harmonic ballancer to output shaft through drive shaft and into rear diff. Since the diff is solid mount with half shafts shouldnt it remain straight through since my rear axles free float???
Just a tip...You should address whether the setup is a W or a Z config. You are correct as far as a Z config goes but most cars have a W config on the shaft. The upper arms will be too short to accommodate as well as the prop shaft may contact the floor in certain instances. The same also works in the overhead view...you need a consistent setup (W or Z) in BOTH planes for the joints to be happy. Nice video and presentation...hope this helps.
Nick hi this is Cesar . Listen I have a situation whit my BMW 323i 2000 the car had destroyed the main bushin in the diferencial . I replaced the 3 mounts of the diferntial plus the support of the cardan or chaft how conect diferencial and transmission plus the two mounds of the transmission plus the two motor mounds . One time was replaced all of those and try my car the transmission was sleepered and can’t find any gear included reverse . Father the information you provided in this video the car runs . But still have problems mayor ones . The transmission doesn’t apply the gear correctly. Reverse is fine and go up in to the gear 1 2 3 4 but if I release the gas the transmission is not capable to go gears down normally and the car protects it self showed a pinion gear in the dashboard. Any tip you can sher whit me? Thanks
Hi Caesar, that's a tough one, and admittedly, 2000's BMW's aren't my forte. I'd recommend taking it to a transmission specialist near you, as I wouldn't want to hazard a guess that doesn't help you. Good luck!
You got anything for two piece drive line w/carrier brg ?
If you replaced your universal joints with cv joints, wouldn't pinion angle become essentially irrelevant? If so, why is it so rare to see cv joints in a driveshaft? I have seen cv's in some of the very new ford trucks, maybe there's other applications too.
I have a 95 Cobra that's lowered and the driveshaft has some ware in the middle from (I've been told) the driveshaft pointing upwards towards the body of the car... I'm assuming this should fix that issue??
Very informative but I have a two piece drive shaft on my 1963 C10, which ai have lowered. Can you explain how to figure out this same process for the two piece drive line?
07 tundra 2 piece drive shaft 4”lifted truck?? Please do a video thanks l have 3 deg on front shaft 7 on second and 8deg at pinion. So I’m 3 deg out ? I have all ready dropped carrier bearing thanks !
Thank you for the simple explanation! I just did a QA1 coilover conversion on my 83 C10 and have been trying to find an explanation of how to set pinion angle. Thanks for the 3 simple rules towards the end.
I just finished my 83 c10 as well , what was your results?
but I have no drive shaft made yet :(
Thank you for a great video. I have the app now.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the feedback!
won't the pinion angle 2% up lead to spring wrap and axle hop?
I guess the same applies horizontally to an off centre engine? So it must be parallel to centre line of the car and the prop no more than 3 degrees from straight ahead?
Does the car need to be level? I have a 4 post that is not level from front to rear.
Awesome video!! im just starting a hotrod project and that was extremely informative and helpful thank you!!
I've always heard point the nose of the rear end up 1-3 degrees. If you point a go-pro at your 3rd member and go for a drive, you'll see that the pinion angle changes quite a bit under load.
? up or down
Here's a question... do u know if anyone has a video where they are actually doing the procedure...?..especially how to rotate the rear axle properly?
Thank you for the well made and very informative video. I've been fighting an issue with a new build for weeks. Looking forward to getting back at it tomorrow
Fantastic explanation 💪 😎 Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!