Thank you for sharing. Great video; saw lots of details. I've always wondered, in this kind of caliper design, what pushes the pads away from the rotor, when the driver's foot is off the brake pedal? Of the two pads, the one on the inside of the rotor, doesn't look like it would retract from the rotor.
The pressure retracts while pretty much leaves it nearly touching the rotor. They are never retracted to the point you could visually see it, they always stay very close for maximum braking power
It’s hard to get a socket to get the top bolt out …i had a hell of a time and i did not want to try and bend the brake line. Worried it will snap lol. You make it look so easy in your vid i was struggling for 2 hrs trying to figure it out Just gonna go to the dealership tomorrow. 2015 Lancer GT
I didn't notice that the pins were different until after I pulled them out. I don't know which one went where. Where does the one with the rubber on the end go... Top or bottom? I could not tell from video. Thank you in advance.
Another question: *IF* we find out the caliper piston has seized, so that caliper needs to be replaced... I would think the CALIPER can be changed just one at a time, and does NOT need to be changed in pairs. Your thoughts? Rotors & pads, I understand that - change them in pairs, so they always have even wear between drive & passenger side. But the caliper itself should be made to the same spec; same piston bore diameter. So when stepping on brake pedal, and master cylinder fires the hydraulic fluid/pressure, the piston should end up applying the same force between the new caliper on one side, and the old caliper on the other side. Right? Thank you.
Yep, typically just the problem caliper is changed. A bad/collapsed flex line can also make it look like a caliper so it’s always a good idea to change it too....
Yea it is metal, I don’t mean bend it a lot, just enough to get the pin out. Otherwise taking the other pin out and then pull the other one out as far as you can then twisting/moving the caliper a bit might help too
Wouldn’t it be best to open the brake bleeder when compressing the piston? I know that on some vehicles the abs valve can go bad if you force the fluid back through.
First you always replace slide clips. Second you need to file where they were. They shouldn't be that tight you shouldnt ever have to bang em on. There is corrosion so file it off... Third you don't use antisieze you use high temp grease on the slide clips. And never put antisieze on studs!!! Never ever, ever! Real good way to lose a wheel.
Seems to be as simple as the front. Thanks for the video man.
Thanks bro had 0 issues doing it on my ‘17 🤘🏼🤘🏼
Thank you for sharing. Great video; saw lots of details.
I've always wondered, in this kind of caliper design, what pushes the pads away from the rotor, when the driver's foot is off the brake pedal? Of the two pads, the one on the inside of the rotor, doesn't look like it would retract from the rotor.
The pressure retracts while pretty much leaves it nearly touching the rotor. They are never retracted to the point you could visually see it, they always stay very close for maximum braking power
Best video I've seen. Thank you so much
Thank you for the Video. You rock!
Excellent, thank you.
The wear sensor supposed to be attached on the leading edge of the the pad.
Thanks, useful video.
It’s hard to get a socket to get the top bolt out …i had a hell of a time and i did not want to try and bend the brake line. Worried it will snap lol. You make it look so easy in your vid i was struggling for 2 hrs trying to figure it out Just gonna go to the dealership tomorrow. 2015 Lancer GT
You don't need to take the top pin out. Just rotate the caliper up and then out.
I didn't notice that the pins were different until after I pulled them out.
I don't know which one went where. Where does the one with the rubber on the end go... Top or bottom? I could not tell from video.
Thank you in advance.
The one with the rubber goes on top
Bottom
Is the rear brake work the same for 2014 Lancer 2WD?
It should as long as its rear disc
Another question: *IF* we find out the caliper piston has seized, so that caliper needs to be replaced...
I would think the CALIPER can be changed just one at a time, and does NOT need to be changed in pairs. Your thoughts?
Rotors & pads, I understand that - change them in pairs, so they always have even wear between drive & passenger side.
But the caliper itself should be made to the same spec; same piston bore diameter.
So when stepping on brake pedal, and master cylinder fires the hydraulic fluid/pressure, the piston should end up applying the same force between the new caliper on one side, and the old caliper on the other side. Right?
Thank you.
Yep, typically just the problem caliper is changed. A bad/collapsed flex line can also make it look like a caliper so it’s always a good idea to change it too....
Squealer should be positioned on leading edge of inboard pad.
Some aftermarket manufacturers don't allow that to happen
@@KendorFarms If that’s the case don’t buy pads from that supplier.
howcome my brakeline is so close to the upper caliper slide pin, I can't get a socket around it?! How can I remove it?!
Yea you just have to bend the flex line out of the way a bit with a screw driver
@@KendorFarms well there's the metal fitting at the end of the line, connecting to the caliper, don't think I can bend that
Yea it is metal, I don’t mean bend it a lot, just enough to get the pin out. Otherwise taking the other pin out and then pull the other one out as far as you can then twisting/moving the caliper a bit might help too
@@KendorFarms cheers man will give it shot
No problem, best of luck!
Wouldn’t it be best to open the brake bleeder when compressing the piston? I know that on some vehicles the abs valve can go bad if you force the fluid back through.
I've heard that rumour too but never had an issue doing it that way in over 20 years
@@KendorFarms might not hurt to do so, the fluid probably needs to be flushed out on my car anyway.
Are the rear pads smaller than front
Yes, typically they are
where do the anti rattle brake clips go?
typically on the caliper bracket where the pad sits
First you always replace slide clips. Second you need to file where they were. They shouldn't be that tight you shouldnt ever have to bang em on. There is corrosion so file it off... Third you don't use antisieze you use high temp grease on the slide clips. And never put antisieze on studs!!! Never ever, ever! Real good way to lose a wheel.
Cool story! Thanks for watching
Hey I have one question you took a rubbing lid off one of the rotors did you put it back in?
I did. Transferred it over
I did. Transferred it over