I have been watching your channel for years. I usually don’t comment because your knowledge far surpasses mine. But I am just shocked how much information and knowledge you put through these videos and don’t have 100,000 subscribers is beyond me. We all know the Raptor 700 is the “go to” quad and will definitely go down as the best sport quad ever made. Cheers bro 🍻
Thin wall sleeves require waterless coolant to prevent steam cavitation and hot spots. Anytime you add more fuel, you will add BTU's and you must add extra cooling. Strokers cause problems also. Better off stock bore with ported and larger valves to maximize your oem bore size.
There is Athena 105.5mm cylinder's - Italy + CPI piston- USA & 5MM hot rod as a quality mix with yes with appropriate cylinder head modifications required ..... we built lots of these
Amazing and much appreciated vedio and info, respect man, you answered a common question in the best possible was. THANKS FOR YOUR EFFORTS , AND SHARE OF KNOWLEDGE
This is so intresting! Ive just done a full rebuild of a Yamaha WR450f. I know you are in to Atv’s, but the engines are basically the same. I bought the bike as a project, without knowing that it had a Big bore cylinder (480cc)installed, the piston was gone and it was very hard to find a new one+costly. However, after 2 failed startups because of water (alot) coming in to the combustion chamber, and a final inspection took place. I did find a crack in the cylinder, more or less invisible. I did by mistake overtightening one headbolt by around 60nm at the first assembly, But I released it fully and retightening it according to the torque specs. Some people claim that thats the reason why its cracked🤷🏻 I would appreciate alot if you could take your time and watch my latest video and give your input on it,(it has no subtitles, sorry)? Thank you for your patience of reading my comment and my bad english. 🙏🏻🍻
60 nm is not a whole lot. 44 ft lbs. Lot enough to cause any concern . Now uf u did 60nm plus 90* steps that would be quite high. There is a lot of junk on the market and i see some come in with cracks new. Make sure to have the proper bore gasket if big bore
@@MrCuervoRacing Thanks for ur respond🙏🏻Did not went 90˚ beyond my 60nm, so I do believe it is all good, Just needed a second opinion on it, and it felt great to hear it from an expert👍🏻 The headgasket (Cometic) came with the piston (JE), the big bore is from CylinderWorks. Dont know the quality of all that stuff, you have probably better experience than me. Anyway, it was well spent money on nothing😣💸😅 Thanx again for your answer my friend, you have a new subscriber😉
Good vid man. I'm sure their similar in theory and your thought process, but what about the yfz450r? I built one, 5mm stroker, 98mm big bore, ported head, stage 3 cams, I had several brand cylinders on hand and used the Athena b.c. it had the thickest walls. But I used the cometic 3 layer. It's been sitting for months ready for heat cycle but I can't get the motor to crank through the compression stroke. I put oem decomp pin in the stage 3 cam b.c. that's a thing from what I hear. Still no go. I need a mm or so taller decomp pin or idk? Is there high torque starters out there? Can I change the starter gearing somehow? Put lithium batt with double the cca. But even when I figure it out and get it to fire, I still have no clue how to get the f.i. system to feed that motor. Stock ecu with pc3 jumped in. Will that work to run my heat cycles at least? I want to get heat cycles done hoping that after it breaks in a little, the starter will turn the motor haha. I'm at a loss man. Any help is super appreciated. Have 3500 into just the motor. Oh and yes I'm running a billet welded trued crank works crank also
CR, have you used octane booster like boostane or torco for those higher compression quads? A splash on that mixed with 93 will increase your octane rating to where it needs to be. Or is just better to go with VP fuel?
TY. I'm happy to know that when I saved money on getting stock bore CP 11:1 piston kit better in long-run. I got a stroker hotrods crank also cheaper leftover stock... is it worth using or not? 4178 kit +5mm crank or if I get it welded would it last? I need new valves from and have HC stage 3 cam no port job,, I ride dunes a mostly on county roads
the hotrods 5mm will add compression making it unsafe for use with 92 octane' i do not recommend using any of the hotrods cranks in the raptor 700 due to a high failure rate seen'.
I have been watching your channel for years. I usually don’t comment because your knowledge far surpasses mine. But I am just shocked how much information and knowledge you put through these videos and don’t have 100,000 subscribers is beyond me. We all know the Raptor 700 is the “go to” quad and will definitely go down as the best sport quad ever made. Cheers bro 🍻
I agree he is awesome 👌
I'm glad I found this channel I have learned a lot watching the past few days
Thin wall sleeves require waterless coolant to prevent steam cavitation and hot spots. Anytime you add more fuel, you will add BTU's and you must add extra cooling. Strokers cause problems also. Better off stock bore with ported and larger valves to maximize your oem bore size.
Thank you for your time and expertise sir!
Good video and information that Dynojet you sent me is awesome with that stage 3 cam thank you
Great video man... happy new years to you and yours. Talk to ya soon...
Another good video, thanks Daniel!
There is Athena 105.5mm cylinder's - Italy + CPI piston- USA & 5MM hot rod as a quality mix with yes with appropriate cylinder head modifications required ..... we built lots of these
Unfortunately the Athena cylinder have all the same issues. 5mm is junk and break often enough to not be considered as an option
Amazing and much appreciated vedio and info, respect man, you answered a common question in the best possible was. THANKS FOR YOUR EFFORTS , AND SHARE OF KNOWLEDGE
As with all your videos great stuff great info
This is so intresting!
Ive just done a full rebuild of a Yamaha WR450f. I know you are in to Atv’s, but the engines are basically the same.
I bought the bike as a project, without knowing that it had a Big bore cylinder (480cc)installed, the piston was gone and it was very hard to find a new one+costly.
However, after 2 failed startups because of water (alot) coming in to the combustion chamber, and a final inspection took place. I did find a crack in the cylinder, more or less invisible.
I did by mistake overtightening one headbolt by around 60nm at the first assembly, But I released it fully and retightening it according to the torque specs.
Some people claim that thats the reason why its cracked🤷🏻
I would appreciate alot if you could take your time and watch my latest video and give your input on it,(it has no subtitles, sorry)?
Thank you for your patience of reading my comment and my bad english.
🙏🏻🍻
60 nm is not a whole lot. 44 ft lbs. Lot enough to cause any concern . Now uf u did 60nm plus 90* steps that would be quite high. There is a lot of junk on the market and i see some come in with cracks new. Make sure to have the proper bore gasket if big bore
@@MrCuervoRacing Thanks for ur respond🙏🏻Did not went 90˚ beyond my 60nm, so I do believe it is all good, Just needed a second opinion on it, and it felt great to hear it from an expert👍🏻
The headgasket (Cometic) came with the piston (JE), the big bore is from CylinderWorks. Dont know the quality of all that stuff, you have probably better experience than me.
Anyway, it was well spent money on nothing😣💸😅
Thanx again for your answer my friend, you have a new subscriber😉
Love ❤️ the knowledge 🙏🙏🙌🙌
Then you should bore the case if possible put thicker sleeve! Athena shit has always been good too me but I don’t build raptors
People say that the best performance mods without big bore are: dual exhaust, FCI intake, PC 5, good tune and throttle Body 50mm. What do u think?
i agree but i would also get a hotcam stage 3 54mm throttle body and if you have extra to spend a ported head
Go single exhaust for 2015+, duals are fine for 2014 and prior.
Great video. Never disappointed, is it safe to up the compression to 11.1 on stock bore and still do the +1 head
yes for pump gas 11:1 max
@@MrCuervoRacing Thankyou
Do you have video for water pump 700 raptor
Can I do 14:1 piston on stock bore with stock férrea size valves and stock crank
Good vid man. I'm sure their similar in theory and your thought process, but what about the yfz450r? I built one, 5mm stroker, 98mm big bore, ported head, stage 3 cams, I had several brand cylinders on hand and used the Athena b.c. it had the thickest walls. But I used the cometic 3 layer. It's been sitting for months ready for heat cycle but I can't get the motor to crank through the compression stroke. I put oem decomp pin in the stage 3 cam b.c. that's a thing from what I hear. Still no go. I need a mm or so taller decomp pin or idk? Is there high torque starters out there? Can I change the starter gearing somehow? Put lithium batt with double the cca. But even when I figure it out and get it to fire, I still have no clue how to get the f.i. system to feed that motor. Stock ecu with pc3 jumped in. Will that work to run my heat cycles at least? I want to get heat cycles done hoping that after it breaks in a little, the starter will turn the motor haha. I'm at a loss man. Any help is super appreciated. Have 3500 into just the motor. Oh and yes I'm running a billet welded trued crank works crank also
Did you ever get it figured out?
CR, have you used octane booster like boostane or torco for those higher compression quads? A splash on that mixed with 93 will increase your octane rating to where it needs to be. Or is just better to go with VP fuel?
Whats the price on a 6mil stroker crank?
To what piston bore is the stock gasket suitable? And does it come in bigger bore?
TY. I'm happy to know that when I saved money on getting stock bore CP 11:1 piston kit better in long-run. I got a stroker hotrods crank also cheaper leftover stock... is it worth using or not? 4178 kit +5mm crank or if I get it welded would it last? I need new valves from and have HC stage 3 cam no port job,, I ride dunes a mostly on county roads
the hotrods 5mm will add compression making it unsafe for use with 92 octane' i do not recommend using any of the hotrods cranks in the raptor 700 due to a high failure rate seen'.
Would the same apply for the yfz? Stock bore stoker crank over big bore stock crank?
On stock head yes.
What about a 108 cylinder?? What's a good gasket?
7:00 A link to a good stroker crankshaft for OEM cylinder ?
So what would you recommend I have a 2021 raptor 700 with about 5 hours on it
Big 3
Break it in more before adding mods
5 hrs is plenty of break-in. give us a call to discuss basically intake exhaust and programmer... then hc3 bore throttle body and clutch
How about Athena big bore
poor quality. this is what the 106.5 is
@@MrCuervoRacing what's your recommendation for my break in on new raptor???🙌🙌😄😄😄😍
What would you do after the big 3 and still keep reliability?
That's the info I need too I'm bored with my Raptor now
Hot cam3
Hotcams 3 and +3mm throttle body bore for 15+ motors 06-14 add 11:1 , clutch upgrade with this recommended as well contact for price and avail.
@@MrCuervoRacing does the stage 3 cause advanced wear on the valve train?
How can we contact u