Nice video! One (or two) questions though.. 1) Why not just splice the fan cables? I would only imagine due to warranty of the fan? Otherwise, it looks much cleaner without the connector dangling around! 2) You mention that you may have shorted the fan controller, resulting in the fan running 100% of the time - which you then say is no issue for you since you usually print PLA and would almost always want this fan on. This makes sense except the fact that this is not *just* the part cooling fan, but also what keeps the heat block in check, so I believe you would ALWAYS want this fan on if for nothing else to not clog your hot end at the heat block and think that you're better off swapping shrouds to either restrict or allow air flow to the part specifically. I myself have a shroud that removes all air flow to the part for ABS printing, and then another that increases the cooling distribution on the part for PLA, etc.
Hey, thanks for the comment and sorry for being slow to get back! You're dead on about the splice, in the unlikely event the fan stops, I don't want any reason for them not to warranty the little thing! Excellent point on the fan being on; I definitely don't want too much heat creep going on. What I have been doing is, when I print ABS, placing a strip of tape over the outlet of the shroud that cools the part, still allowing the air to circulate internally and cool the block. A good point to bring up, for sure!
Hey, I followed the video but was unable to get the fan to turn on. I have the Noctua NF-A4x20 FLX fan and wired it as you did but the fan would not turn on. I rewired the stock 30mm fan and am running that again until I am able to figure out where I went wrong with the fan mod installation. Are you able to offer any suggestions? I soldered the red to red, black to black, and taped the yellow wire down with some electrical tape.
Interesting you are having that issue, especially since the stock fan works. I wonder if it could be a dead fan? You could possibly try touching the wires to the posts of a smoke detector battery to see if it'd spin. I doubt a AA or AAA would work since they are 1.5 volts but a 9v smoke detector one may.
I had the same issue. The Noctua fan is 12V, I measured the voltage across the stock fan while running at about 8V. I figured the noctua would still run at 8V since @PiedmontTiger shows his running at 6.6, so IDK. Stock fan back on for now.
In case someone is still having this problem: in the cura settings you have to turn the fan speed to 100% AND the initial fan speed to 100%. For me the fan doesn't spin during the heating phase, but it starts as soon as it begins with the actual print.
I *think* FLX is a single speed fan, but am not sure. In this case, we are not using the PWM aspect of the fan, so it doesn't do us any additional benefit; the 2-wire connection we make is only voltage and ground. I think it all comes down to the capability & adapters included. It's the same price as the FLX one, but do be aware that there's a pretty good chance that the fan will be running constantly after changing this out, at least with the PWM version. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
@@piedmonttiger265 I just installed my fan today. I bought the PWM version and soldered it directly to the main 12v on the board and it works great! Ofc it's been only couple of hours printing but I jave high hopes.
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Nice video! One (or two) questions though.. 1) Why not just splice the fan cables? I would only imagine due to warranty of the fan? Otherwise, it looks much cleaner without the connector dangling around! 2) You mention that you may have shorted the fan controller, resulting in the fan running 100% of the time - which you then say is no issue for you since you usually print PLA and would almost always want this fan on. This makes sense except the fact that this is not *just* the part cooling fan, but also what keeps the heat block in check, so I believe you would ALWAYS want this fan on if for nothing else to not clog your hot end at the heat block and think that you're better off swapping shrouds to either restrict or allow air flow to the part specifically. I myself have a shroud that removes all air flow to the part for ABS printing, and then another that increases the cooling distribution on the part for PLA, etc.
Hey, thanks for the comment and sorry for being slow to get back! You're dead on about the splice, in the unlikely event the fan stops, I don't want any reason for them not to warranty the little thing! Excellent point on the fan being on; I definitely don't want too much heat creep going on. What I have been doing is, when I print ABS, placing a strip of tape over the outlet of the shroud that cools the part, still allowing the air to circulate internally and cool the block. A good point to bring up, for sure!
Had same problem. I use a Noctua 40mmx10mm fan. Now i have the same problem with the Motherboard fan.
Interesting, I wonder if it is something just with the fans, maybe a different resistance or something else being "sensed" differently.
Hey, I followed the video but was unable to get the fan to turn on. I have the Noctua NF-A4x20 FLX fan and wired it as you did but the fan would not turn on. I rewired the stock 30mm fan and am running that again until I am able to figure out where I went wrong with the fan mod installation. Are you able to offer any suggestions? I soldered the red to red, black to black, and taped the yellow wire down with some electrical tape.
Interesting you are having that issue, especially since the stock fan works. I wonder if it could be a dead fan? You could possibly try touching the wires to the posts of a smoke detector battery to see if it'd spin. I doubt a AA or AAA would work since they are 1.5 volts but a 9v smoke detector one may.
I had the same issue. The Noctua fan is 12V, I measured the voltage across the stock fan while running at about 8V. I figured the noctua would still run at 8V since @PiedmontTiger shows his running at 6.6, so IDK. Stock fan back on for now.
In case someone is still having this problem: in the cura settings you have to turn the fan speed to 100% AND the initial fan speed to 100%. For me the fan doesn't spin during the heating phase, but it starts as soon as it begins with the actual print.
Where can I get the files to print the shroud
Great video, what's the difference btw PWM and FLX? Should I get the PWM?
I *think* FLX is a single speed fan, but am not sure. In this case, we are not using the PWM aspect of the fan, so it doesn't do us any additional benefit; the 2-wire connection we make is only voltage and ground. I think it all comes down to the capability & adapters included. It's the same price as the FLX one, but do be aware that there's a pretty good chance that the fan will be running constantly after changing this out, at least with the PWM version. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
@@piedmonttiger265 I just installed my fan today. I bought the PWM version and soldered it directly to the main 12v on the board and it works great! Ofc it's been only couple of hours printing but I jave high hopes.
@@peterhan2692 Great! The back fan on mine has started to grind now, so that will be my next mod.