Be careful. The owner of the company admitted to me on the phone that his whole batch is defective. Cost me an extra $1000 at the shop to swap 2 defective units, then go back to the original thermostat. So disappointed.
G’day mate great Video 👍👍 thank you for take your time and share with us LANDY LOVERS 😅😉with this great information 🙏, If you my I would like asked you few questions,, first my friend he just get out of head gaskets done , his mechanic he didn’t do a great bleeding the car run great for two weeks then it starts overheating and spills coolant out from the coolant reservoir tank and the hoses was sold like rock!, now his car left for few weeks not touch then he contact me and I went to see his problems , so he changed new thermostat new radiator all hoses looks almost new his water pump working without no problem his engine fan clutch working as normal and no water in oil , has a full engine power , I flush all his system from all a some clean it all with garden hose engine plus radiator , then fill it with new fresh coolant red bleeding all system from air , we run car it keeps to 30.04C and run without cap all good beautiful temperatures then drive it just we went for test drive for just about 5min something , then it starts overheating and the fan run like crazy we return back to his place the we check the hoses holding pressure like rock ! We left it to cool down until next week so we can buy a new thermostat to do bleeding again as I do it for my personal two Discovery’s a 2000 Td5 and the other v8 2004. Now what do you think we must do ? And this inline thermostat could I use on my Td5 ? Many thanks cheers Matt 🤝👍😊🙏
I've had similar issues with my D2 with the factory thermostat. Very hard to bleed the system. The only thing that worked for me is to start it up and rev the engine and give it a short drive. If the temps get high, shut it off and let it cool down and repeat. Sometime it took 8-9 times before the air bubble finally cleared. Yes the in-line thermostat seems to be easier to bleed and less trouble getting the air out of the system.
@@cltrovers Thank you so much my friend I’ll get him a new black thermostat and do many times of bleeding the Air from the system like what u just told me and if all goes well then I’ll replace it with inline thermostat as you showed us in your wonderful video, thank you again and I’ll update you with details plus I’ll try doing it on Td5 😉😅🤝👍 cheers Matt
Great video and thanks! The website shows options for temps down to 160… any reason not to go with anything lower the the standard 180 upgrade everyone talks about that you know of?
Question what was your hot day, AC on, in traffic long idle average temp with the factory set up? Mine is 201 and I know that's not terrible but want it lower. My entire cooling system is new and bled. (Southern AZ region)
Idle is the key here. The water pump really does not do an effective job. In fact during cold weather around freezing if you idle long enough hot air will quit blowing in the cabin. But even in North Carolina hot summers I'm still running in the low 190s at idle in traffic.
@@ronaldrrootiii6040 I would get off the highway and at a stop light and they would climb to 210-212, then lucky the light would turn green and go down once I started driving.
TSB - 00001: Pulley rubs on hose, eventually earing a hole in the heater hose. I noticed the pully near the old U-Turn hose was starting to rub. I used a zip-tie to pull it away from the pulley. Done.
The factory thermostat is prone to failure and runs the engine hotter. It was designed to run the engine hotter to have better emissions but hotter engine is more prone to have head gasket issues
Have you replaced any of the hoses as well? I keep springing leaks and just want to work on keeping engine temps down and also keep coolant actually in the system 😂
You don't need the extra temp gauge. In my opinion the temp gauge that is in the instrument cluster is not reliable. It is only programed to show the needle going into the red after the engine is very hot and damage has been done. Because of this there is really no warning to the driver that the engine is getting hot and there is an issue before it is too late and damage. has been done to the engine.
@@NickyTBeats One of the big benefits of the in-line is most of the times it does not need bleeding. just run the engine and watch the temps. Turn off engine let it cool and fill the resevior if needed.
@@NickyTBeats Bleeding is very easy. Just pour as much coolant into the hoses as you can on either side of the thermostat housing and you should be good. Normally no extra steps are needed.
If I use the Torque app is rhat accurate once using the inline as I'm not sure where the reading is checked by the obd system. But it looks like this solves the heat issue. And if I can continue to use the app versus an Ultragauge I am ok with that. I am at hg replacement time so once all said and done this upgrade will be in full swing.
Be careful. The owner of the company admitted to me on the phone that his whole batch is defective. Cost me an extra $1000 at the shop to swap 2 defective units, then go back to the original thermostat. So disappointed.
Thanks for posting this! Ordered mine today.
What site did you order this from
@@charlieshivers1992 inline thermostats
G’day mate great Video 👍👍 thank you for take your time and share with us LANDY LOVERS 😅😉with this great information 🙏,
If you my I would like asked you few questions,, first my friend he just get out of head gaskets done , his mechanic he didn’t do a great bleeding the car run great for two weeks then it starts overheating and spills coolant out from the coolant reservoir tank and the hoses was sold like rock!, now his car left for few weeks not touch then he contact me and I went to see his problems
, so he changed new thermostat new radiator all hoses looks almost new his water pump working without no problem his engine fan clutch working as normal and no water in oil , has a full engine power
, I flush all his system from all a some clean it all with garden hose engine plus radiator , then fill it with new fresh coolant red bleeding all system from air
, we run car it keeps to 30.04C and run without cap all good beautiful temperatures then drive it just we went for test drive for just about 5min something
, then it starts overheating and the fan run like crazy we return back to his place the we check the hoses holding pressure like rock !
We left it to cool down until next week so we can buy a new thermostat to do bleeding again as I do it for my personal two Discovery’s a 2000 Td5 and the other v8 2004.
Now what do you think we must do ? And this inline thermostat could I use on my Td5 ?
Many thanks cheers Matt 🤝👍😊🙏
I've had similar issues with my D2 with the factory thermostat. Very hard to bleed the system. The only thing that worked for me is to start it up and rev the engine and give it a short drive. If the temps get high, shut it off and let it cool down and repeat. Sometime it took 8-9 times before the air bubble finally cleared. Yes the in-line thermostat seems to be easier to bleed and less trouble getting the air out of the system.
I'm not sure about the diesel engine with the in-line thermostat, just petrol in the USA
@@cltrovers
Thank you so much my friend I’ll get him a new black thermostat and do many times of bleeding the Air from the system like what u just told me and if all goes well then I’ll replace it with inline thermostat as you showed us in your wonderful video, thank you again and I’ll update you with details plus I’ll try doing it on Td5 😉😅🤝👍 cheers Matt
Cheers! See you on the Land Rover Forums website!
Nice thermostat housing.
Did you torque the screws on the thermostat housing or just till you thought it was right?
Great video and thanks! The website shows options for temps down to 160… any reason not to go with anything lower the the standard 180 upgrade everyone talks about that you know of?
The ECU will throw a code if you go lower than 180...not sure why he offers them
@@cltrovers thanks for the reply. About to install mine here in a bit.
Question what was your hot day, AC on, in traffic long idle average temp with the factory set up? Mine is 201 and I know that's not terrible but want it lower. My entire cooling system is new and bled. (Southern AZ region)
Idle is the key here. The water pump really does not do an effective job. In fact during cold weather around freezing if you idle long enough hot air will quit blowing in the cabin. But even in North Carolina hot summers I'm still running in the low 190s at idle in traffic.
@@cltrovers nice! What was your higher Temps at idle before the conversion?
@@cltrovers yeah seems like the original design was about helping the heater haha
@@ronaldrrootiii6040 I would get off the highway and at a stop light and they would climb to 210-212, then lucky the light would turn green and go down once I started driving.
@@cltrovers oh dang yeah that's no good
What do I need to install? Gasket sealant? Do I just slide hose on in line thermostat and hose clamp it? Or do I need a sealant?
Yes gasket sealant on both sides. Now you can buy a reusable gasket. This was not offered when I purchased mine. Hose clamps only for the hoses.
TSB - 00001: Pulley rubs on hose, eventually earing a hole in the heater hose.
I noticed the pully near the old U-Turn hose was starting to rub. I used a zip-tie to pull it away from the pulley. Done.
What was the reason for replacing the factory thermostat to the in-line type please?
The factory thermostat is prone to failure and runs the engine hotter. It was designed to run the engine hotter to have better emissions but hotter engine is more prone to have head gasket issues
Please tell us the name of the gauge you put in on the left of the steering wheel dash.
Hotsystem was the brand name
Have you replaced any of the hoses as well? I keep springing leaks and just want to work on keeping engine temps down and also keep coolant actually in the system 😂
I'm running a new hose up top from the thermostat housing to the radiator but other than that they are all still stock
Do you need the external temp guage? Or can I run truck without?
You don't need the extra temp gauge. In my opinion the temp gauge that is in the instrument cluster is not reliable. It is only programed to show the needle going into the red after the engine is very hot and damage has been done. Because of this there is really no warning to the driver that the engine is getting hot and there is an issue before it is too late and damage. has been done to the engine.
@@cltrovers agree. I have a Ultra Guage to monitor water temp. How do I bleed the system now with in line mod?
@@NickyTBeats One of the big benefits of the in-line is most of the times it does not need bleeding. just run the engine and watch the temps. Turn off engine let it cool and fill the resevior if needed.
@@NickyTBeats Bleeding is very easy. Just pour as much coolant into the hoses as you can on either side of the thermostat housing and you should be good. Normally no extra steps are needed.
If I use the Torque app is rhat accurate once using the inline as I'm not sure where the reading is checked by the obd system. But it looks like this solves the heat issue. And if I can continue to use the app versus an Ultragauge I am ok with that. I am at hg replacement time so once all said and done this upgrade will be in full swing.
What site do u order this from
inlinethermostats.com
Please can you give me the reference number of the housing kit?
www.inlinethermostats.com SKU: 154-18-VE
My in line thermostat is dripping when vehicle runs
Gasket could be bad, did you use any gasket sealer if you had the paper gasket. Or check the bolts and see if you can tighten them more.
@@cltrovers I put in re usable silicon gasket from website, tightened all the way and have a consistent drip