I came here from Tirsbaek TV and I own a Land Rover 90! The talk of 3D printing took my interest and I have to say I'm very impressed. The magnets were a distinguished touch. If I find myself with a Disco one day I'll head back here!
Thanks Ben! The 3D printer is a very useful tool and has made a number of projects like this possible. The mount for the 12V splitter and dashcam screen seen at 3:22 is also 3D printed, made up of a number of sections threaded on metal rods and glued together. Unfortunately, I failed to document that build.
Nice video - I had the highline audio in my D2 as well - wasn't happy with the quality of the sound, so when the wife bought me a Pioneer Single-Din headunit, I went about converting it. Removed the Amp, CD Changer, and rear subwoofer. The factory wiring was complex and no adapters existed so ended up running new speaker wires to the doors. The rest used an ISO adapter, but alas, no steering wheel controls. Installed new speakers as well. The fronts no longer use the tweeters in the A-pillar, but replaced the mid-range ones with tweeters instead that came with the front speaker kit. The rear doors fortunately have the filter built-in to the wiring so those still work with new speakers. Would perhaps like to get a sub set up at some point, nothing crazy, maybe a 10" unit just to beef-up the low-end. I have grabbed your Thingiverse lower cover to fill that annoying gap, thanks for that! Got an idea for an item (you seem to have the design ability!) - how about a cup--holder adapter (the twin unit that pops out the dash) to mount a phone, preferably in landscape mode, for navigation? My phone is a Nokia 6, pretty standard sized Android . I can stand it there on the existing 'shelf' but of course nothing to stop it sliding left or right, or falling off during violent acceleration (ha ha!)
Looks really nice all told, but I would not be happy cutting into the dash like that to install it. My factory radio went kaput so I'm looking for more up to date replacement
Hey Matt, is the photo at 3:40 showing the final solution to lowering the volume using your DIY attenuator circuits? Or is it showing the modules you purchased that made the volume too quite. Curentlly replicating what you have done and don't want to start cutting wires incase it's not the final solution you reached
Hi, that's just showing the modules I originally purchased and tried. I ultimately added the attenuation circuits in between the small black 16-pin plug that goes into the Alpine stereo and the bigger ISO sockets. It does mean that they're a permanent part of the adapter cable but replacements are cheap.
Hi, my 3D printer isn't really up to making parts good enough to sell but I've uploaded the parts to Thingiverse and added links to the description. Maybe someone local can print them for you, it would be much cheaper than me shipping them over.
Hi Andrew, thanks for watching. All of the 3D parts are free to download from Thingiverse here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3816615 My printer is too old and worn out to make prints I'd be happy to give to others but if you know someone with a printer they're simple prints.
I drilled holes in the original radio cage and screwed that to the head unit, it meant that the head unit was permanently attached to the centre dash piece so the whole thing had to come out to remove it. You can see the holes at 2:35. I'd try and come up with something better if I did it now but it worked, extra secure I suppose as there are no screws for a thief to get at.
Hi, I had to look this up from the colour codes on the resistors at 4:20. Although these particular resistors don't make it very clear the values can be calculated and I recommend downloading a chart from Google images. The resistor with the green band is 1.5K and the one with the red band is 10K.
Hi, you don't need to do anything special with the wiring on these, just to add a custom startup screen. I have added some links to the description to some guides and the logo image I made in Illustrator, you can use any image. Thanks for watching.
Hi!! Really nice video, what you did keeps the style of the Land Rover, upgrading an important part of older cars, so giving a screen as the new ones. I’ll do it but for the moment I have a newer radio with usb, Bluetooth... and it works perfectly with sound, so no amplifier needed for the speakers, but I have problems with radio signal, I bought a normal amplifier antenna and it didn’t work, I’ve seen that next to the radio there is another cable which doesn’t fit into the new radio, the male is thinner than the antenna one, and I don’t know what it is for, neither wether it has something to do with it. I don’t know if you can help me, where is the antenna?? Or is it better to buy an external antenna ? Will it work?? Many thanks in advance.
And I’ve seen that the radio has a cable that is cut, and it shows on a label steer wheel, but the connector that comes from the car has more cables in it, I don’t know neither if i can still use the remotes buttons of the steer wheel with the new radio. Thanks!!
I made the logo picture to the right size and put it on a USB drive, if you have everything right the head unit will pick up the image and offer to set it as the start up logo. There are quite a few guides online but it differs between head units.
How did you make your little attenuation circuits? I can lower the lower of the audio output on my head unit but the beeps are still way too loud. Who ever had the wagon before me cut all the plugs off but for those who have the high line system, use the electric Ariel output wire to the blue & red wire to switch the amp on with the radio as not all radios have that functionality built in to the iso plugs.
Hi Chris. The type of attenuator I made and show at 4:11 is called an L-pad attenuator, it just use two resistors and basically acts as a voltage divider. Here's a tutorial page that goes into a lot of detail: www.electronics-tutorials.ws/attenuators/l-pad-attenuator.html I used a 10k Ohms (brown-black-black-red) and 500 Ohms (green-black-brown) resitor in each circuit, I can't actually remember how I came to these values but they worked well for me so maybe worth trying. It's something you can play around with using the formula in the tutorial. For my speaker wires the positive is without the black band and negative with. The boards were built on cut up sections of perf-board, cheap to buy online. I got some crimps and re-crimped everything to use the ISO plugs.
@@MattTester Hi Matt, thanks for the info. I had already figured the 10K one out but not the other. Seeing as both are 5 band resistors, it would make the 2nd one as 1.5K as just noticed the very first brown ring on it. 🤦🏻♂️ Couldn’t see it on the other board as cable was in the way. Have plenty of bread (perf) board kicking around so if get too board over lockdown, might give that a go. Thanks for the info though.
Has this been a good head unit for you? Trying to score one now. Discontinued but there don't seem to be many around with the lower guts that will allow for the fit in the Discovery.
This was a great unit at the time, I haven't owned the Disco since August 2020 though. At a decent price used it would still be worth it, after having a Tesla Model 3 I would want something with a larger capacitive touch screen if I was buying new now. I'm not sure how old a unit can get before CarPlay or Android Auto stops working. I'm considering putting a new head unit in my Mazda MX-5 and I've been looking at the Joying units, they don't have a brand name like Alpine behind them but they seem to be well made and have newer features. They also make single DIN units with large screens that are more like the Halo 9 and have the apps built-in so there's no need for CarPlay or Android Auto, if that's a positive or negative is up to you. Good luck with the project.
@@MattTester Would you be willing to 3 d print all the parts that you created along with supplying the wiring Necessary so make the steering wheel controls work I would pay you whatever you need this is A Us vehicle so left hand drive if it makes a difference Would you know if the radio unit you are using would work in the United States? I have found it On eBay for roughly $600
@@av6266 It just wouldn't be practical unfortunately, my printer is old now and doesn't produce parts I'd give to anyone else plus even just sending over the 3D printed parts and a Connects2 box would cost more to send than the items are worth. Someone local or Shapeways would be best to make the parts for you. Cruchfield would probably make the steering controls adapter, I couldn't tell you if it would be different to the UK one though. Buying the Alpine radio from Europe probably isn't a good idea as the digital radio wouldn't work and it wouldn't be set up for satellite radio. You would be paying a lot for missing features.
Thanks Ray, yeah maybe if I knew I'd have trouble with the amp I wouldn't have tried it. Nisse from Tirsbaek TV fitted one of these to his Disco 2 but didn't push it all the way back and also already had an aftermarket amp, so it was much easier for him.
Came across this video during my research. I've just tried fitting an aftermarket radio (Sony MEX-6001BD) to a 2004 facelift and have no audio output. I believe it's due to the amplifier under the passenger seat but I've not had time to play with the electrics to find out. It's the high line audio system. I'm just wondering if you experienced plug and play with the two standard ISO connectors or have something within your wiring to include the multicoloured connector?
I was able to just plug in the two ISO connectors and get sound, in my case it was too loud because of the factory amp and the power amp built in to the head unit. I consider myself lucky that no damage was done, I'm not sure how much power you can feed in to the factory amp without damaging it so I would recommend confirming that it still works with the factory head unit. While looking up this head unit I did come across this video from Gosforth Handyman talking of known issues with your head unit, having no sound was mentioned. th-cam.com/video/ED55aiZj-R0/w-d-xo.html Shame because it looks like a nice unit, if you have any spare car speakers kicking around that you can use to test for any output at all at the speaker ISO plug that might be handy. While trying to work to do I had considered removing the amp and making a bypass connector to feed the input lines from the head unit directly to the speakers, but the high line system has 9 speakers so you would need to get creative with the wiring if you wanted to keep them all. I created a diagram from all of the wiring diagrams that shows the inputs and outputs with the connectors, might be helpful and at least shows you the wiring colours for the speakers. www.matttester.co.uk/Misc/Discovery%202%20Amplifier%20Speaker%20Inputs%20Outputs%20Logical.pdf Hope this helps.
@@MattTester hey Mat, would this have worked? www.crutchfield.com/p_142SLC4/Scosche-SLC4-Line-Output-Converter.html. I too am needing a new audio setup but I dont want to spend this kind of money and my area if it looks too sweet it may get stolen since my Disco has to sit out front by street... im looking at something more stealth but can replace my now non working ( cant turn off or on it just stays on) factory radio lol i do want seemless integration with my iphone though with bluetooth and im guesing carplay unless this has to be touch screen only? anyway even a smaller one like 4-5" screen woudl be ok.. still looking but not sure how it works with my landy alpine setup stock
@@dparham Hey Dennis. That looks like it would be perfect. I didn't know about it and it doesn't look like it's even sold in this country, it would've been ideal with gain adjustment. You would still need an adapter to convert RCA to ISO plug but they're pretty common and I can't say if you will be able to reduce or increase the gain enough but for the price it's well worth trying. Might be tricky fitting it in the dash because it looks quite big but there's always a way! I haven't seen CarPlay without a touch screen, if you just want music Bluetooth will be fine but it's nice for navigation and you always have the phone charging. If you don't want to cut the dash those flip out units are still for sale and will be hidden when turned off.
Hi, I made the image myself in Illustrator and Alpine provide a guide to adding a custom startup screen as a Bitmap file. They even have some (pretty tacky) pre-made images: www.alpine.co.uk/media-center/opening-screen-customisation.html Fairly simple and really finishes off the installation.
Hey Matt, Thanks for your great video! I'm trying to install one of these radios into my Disco, but I have the base model radio, not the high-line model like you had. I'm not sure how to fix the radio in place, as after taking my radio out, I'm left with a big hole, no frame or cage to mount on to except the plate a few centimeters under the radio. I assume that when you re-installed the dash fascia, the radio was bolted in first, and to install/remove the fascia it has to be lifted up/down first? I have yet to remove my fascia and take a close look underneath, but it looks like I need to get handy with some sheet metal. My Discovery is an Australian 99 Td5 if that matters for design revisions. Thanks, David.
Hi David, Thanks for watching! I'm not sure I've seen the base model of radio but I can think of a few options for you. The cage shown at 2:36 is the original one with holes drilled in the sides, I was going to use a universal single DIN cage at one point but the ones with little folding metal tabs just don't support themselves well it wasn't very secure. As you can kind of see the high line cage clips in at either side with sprung metal tabs and it's very secure, enough to keep the big Alpine head unit in place. If you can find a good enough universal bracket that would work fine, maybe attach it to the back of the facia with fibreglass or epoxy to reinforce it. If you can get another facia at a fair price with the high-line cage already installed you not only have the cage but you have a fall back if you have an issue modifying the facia. I'm not sure how hard they are to come across now. You could of course make your own cage and if you do it's best to focus on making those vertical connections to the facia as rigid as possible, to stop the whole thing from drooping at the back. If not, the back of the screen can still rest on something to keep it upright but it will probably shake around over bumps. The metal plate below is just there to provide screw points for the two screws below the radio slot (and to get in the way of your cables), but you could put a block on it to help support the body of the radio if you needed to. The original radio in mine had a peg installed at the back that located in a hole to keep it steady (seen at 2:14) but I couldn't think of a way of using this on the new radio, maybe you could come up with something. You're correct that it was screwed in before installing, it's a great anti-theft feature and honestly after removing the facia a few times it becomes second nature. Disconnecting the vents and removing the coin holder/clock are the trickiest parts, for the former be careful not to knock the vent control arms off their ball joints when reinstalling and for the latter the trick of using two old credit cards above and below the clock/coin slot to release the tabs works very well (just don't use good ones because they get scratched). Otherwise it just pulls out forward and you don't even need to remove the AC controls with the electronic unit, they just unplug. I think the manual controls stay in place if I remember correctly from my old Disco 1. It would be great to see the finished installation once you have it sorted, it was a huge upgrade and I miss this old Disco.
@@MattTester They are wonderful vehicles! I think I will end up building my own cage. I also decided that the existing single DIN cages are too flimsy, mine is only held in by a very small metal lip around the plastic fascia. I have the peg at the back which stops the radio from going in too far, and clips engage the (factory) single DIN cage to top the radio from sliding out. Similar to the weak single DIN cage design you see on eBay. I will probably end up making an ISO compliant bracket that attaches to the plate beneath the radio hole, as it is the only relatively strong piece of metal within the fascia, the original system is too weak for the alpine! I have taken out the clock to replace the bulb, and have looked behind the switches before, so it shouldn't be too difficult to take the rest of the fascia apart. I have the electronic AC controls, which makes my life easier. I am taking off the fascia soon, and will take photos and add an imgur link when I do so.
I know Im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid forgot the login password. I appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Terrence Kohen i really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Hi, my 3D printer isn't really up to making parts good enough to sell but I've uploaded the parts to Thingiverse and added links to the description. Maybe someone local can print them for you, it would be much cheaper than me shipping them over.
hey ive got a question. i just picked up a 2003 discovery and im curious if removing the stock radio and fitting it with an aftermarket radio will trigger the EKA Lockout/Immobiliser? I was reading up in the manual that the anti theft system will kick on if the radio is unplugged from the battery.
It didn't for me but who knows what had been messed with in the past, the radio didn't even lock out with the security code when the battery went flat. Best to have the code ready.
Thanks for in info. Great video 👍 of potential & options. I just got a 99 D2 with no code. Is this code the same one where key 🗝️ is used to reset EKA by turning key in door lock ? Cheers
@@acemoto2319 I don't believe that's the same code I'm afraid, it should be a 4 digit code that would be in the manual. There are some services to find the code, however I haven't used any of them. I will comment on your other videos as I can see the problem, although you may have found that already.
@@MattTester Okay thanks Matt. I recently saw a Land Rover 2000 Discovery 2, (USA Left Driver side) TH-cam video with default code # 1515. So to Reset EKA, First turn key 5 Sec Left Lock position (or maybe Right Unlock) .... Then turn key to Unlock Right X1, Center then... Lock Left X 5, Unlock Right X1, Lock Left X 5. Then Center and then unlock. I'm going to try this default code. Seems a bit of confusion with USA and British locks since Driver doors are opposite. But maybe turning key Left (Counter clockwise) is always Lock and Right unlocks; no matter which continent. Thank you again. Blessings
Hi, I got the head unit from a company called Dynamic Sounds in the UK, via eBay. This is a link but they're currently out of stock: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352141665739 Still available from a number of other places though so you should be able to find one locally. Thanks for watching.
Yeah on Amazon UK it's www.amazon.co.uk/Alpine-Electronics-iLX-702D-Digital-Receiver/dp/B071GP91VJ, hopefully this should be an international link too: bit.ly/2PkHKoE. Thanks for watching.
10K and 1.5K, sorry the marking on these resistors is pretty bad. I can't remember exactly why I chose those values, it was either from an example I found online or a calculator.
Thanks for watching. Yes it should definitely be possible in a Disco 1, the dashboard is basically the same so it should fit fine. You probably don't have an external amplifier so that will make things easier, I had an aftermarket radio in my Disco 1 with no problems. I don't think there is an adapter to use the radio control buttons behind the steering wheel if you have those.
This is a good guide for adding the logo: www.carplaylife.com/how-to/how-to-install-a-custom-launch-screen-in-a-alpine-ilx-700ilx-007/ I bought the head unit from an eBay seller, I've dropped a link in the description to the 3D printable parts.
Thanks for the info, do you have the specific model of the Connects2 box for the Discovery 2? Or is that dependant on the head unit you choose? (I dont have the budget for the one you're using haha) Greetings from the Netherlands
Hi, the Connects2 box is model CTSLR003.2, it uses standard ISO connectors so should work with any aftermarket head unit. You do end up with a large bundle of cables but there is space in the dash. The UK seller I used still has the same unit for sale: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400422308070 Thanks for watching.
@@MattTester sadly getting it to the Netherlands costs more than the connects2 box so I'll use the head unit without steering wheel controls first and see if i really mis them.
Hi, my 3D printer isn't really up to making parts to sell but I've uploaded the parts to Thingiverse and added links to the description. Thanks for the interest.
Hi Alex, I'm afraid I don't have much more information. The head unit it an Alpine iLX-702D single DIN, not sure if you can still buy these. The lower 3D printed fill-in piece is 22mm deep so if you planned to use that and the top cover, the front of the head unit (with outer trim) would need to be 22mm ahead of the mounting aperture and the top of the dash cut to accommodate it. I don't have the exact location of the mounting holes in the original cage, this could all be done to your preference if you didn't want to use my 3D printed parts. I sold the Discovery in 2020 so I'm unable to get any measurements.
@@MattTester thank you for the information, I have checked in eBay and yes it’s still available. However it’s expensive but not only that, it’s unit only and additional wiring and adapters plus the sound issues, and I don’t have a 3d printer, this is special equipment made for certain purposes like engineering etc and well all this together and I’m not going to pursue this any further. When all said and done, my original unit works fine and I am from that era and have countless tapes and cds! Cheers though for the information 👍
@@stephenlong9809 Completely understandable. It was a lot of work, I'm not sure I would do it again with things like Bluetooth tape adapters and bigger phone screens. I think I just wanted to see if it could be done!
Not so much useful, as i'm happy with the cheap crap i pulled out of my collection of old to fill the 'hole' that came with my Disco 2. It was certainly interesting though! And as it's now 02:09 i'll switch off the monitor and go to sleep...
I respect that, if I still had the car I think I would've changed it back. I'm actually disappointed that my 2002 Freelander has a CD player instead of a tape deck.
@@MattTester I did think about changing it like you did but I got this thing about old tech. It probably is my age ( 51) . Our old camper needs a head unit so be looking at a DAB kit for that though, nothing to fancy.
Attempting to install something in my Disco 2 once she returns from the shop, this video helps a lot! Thanks from Cali
I came here from Tirsbaek TV and I own a Land Rover 90! The talk of 3D printing took my interest and I have to say I'm very impressed. The magnets were a distinguished touch. If I find myself with a Disco one day I'll head back here!
Thanks Ben! The 3D printer is a very useful tool and has made a number of projects like this possible. The mount for the 12V splitter and dashcam screen seen at 3:22 is also 3D printed, made up of a number of sections threaded on metal rods and glued together. Unfortunately, I failed to document that build.
Thanks for the info mate. Cheers from a Disco 2 V8 owner in Suffolk!
Nice video - I had the highline audio in my D2 as well - wasn't happy with the quality of the sound, so when the wife bought me a Pioneer Single-Din headunit, I went about converting it. Removed the Amp, CD Changer, and rear subwoofer. The factory wiring was complex and no adapters existed so ended up running new speaker wires to the doors. The rest used an ISO adapter, but alas, no steering wheel controls. Installed new speakers as well. The fronts no longer use the tweeters in the A-pillar, but replaced the mid-range ones with tweeters instead that came with the front speaker kit. The rear doors fortunately have the filter built-in to the wiring so those still work with new speakers. Would perhaps like to get a sub set up at some point, nothing crazy, maybe a 10" unit just to beef-up the low-end. I have grabbed your Thingiverse lower cover to fill that annoying gap, thanks for that!
Got an idea for an item (you seem to have the design ability!) - how about a cup--holder adapter (the twin unit that pops out the dash) to mount a phone, preferably in landscape mode, for navigation? My phone is a Nokia 6, pretty standard sized Android . I can stand it there on the existing 'shelf' but of course nothing to stop it sliding left or right, or falling off during violent acceleration (ha ha!)
Thank you for this. Researching what can be done.
I would not do this to my Disco as I don't need these features while driving but I certainly enjoyed the engineering solutions. Very straightforward.
Looks really nice all told, but I would not be happy cutting into the dash like that to install it. My factory radio went kaput so I'm looking for more up to date replacement
can you list the things you needed for your stereo to work
I love my Halo on my Disco 2. Sounds amazing too
Hey Matt, is the photo at 3:40 showing the final solution to lowering the volume using your DIY attenuator circuits? Or is it showing the modules you purchased that made the volume too quite. Curentlly replicating what you have done and don't want to start cutting wires incase it's not the final solution you reached
Hi, that's just showing the modules I originally purchased and tried. I ultimately added the attenuation circuits in between the small black 16-pin plug that goes into the Alpine stereo and the bigger ISO sockets. It does mean that they're a permanent part of the adapter cable but replacements are cheap.
Nice work Matt .... Thanks for the upload mate
Hi are you selling the cubby box holders at all
is there any way you could sell the 3d printed parts?
Hi, my 3D printer isn't really up to making parts good enough to sell but I've uploaded the parts to Thingiverse and added links to the description. Maybe someone local can print them for you, it would be much cheaper than me shipping them over.
I would be interested in your 3 d moldings as this is something I would like to do with my discovery
Hi Andrew, thanks for watching. All of the 3D parts are free to download from Thingiverse here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3816615
My printer is too old and worn out to make prints I'd be happy to give to others but if you know someone with a printer they're simple prints.
How did you manage to screw the head unit into the holes from the original mounts ?
I drilled holes in the original radio cage and screwed that to the head unit, it meant that the head unit was permanently attached to the centre dash piece so the whole thing had to come out to remove it. You can see the holes at 2:35. I'd try and come up with something better if I did it now but it worked, extra secure I suppose as there are no screws for a thief to get at.
3D printer files to make these components???? Happen to have saved em?
Hi, I've uploaded the parts to Thingiverse and added links to the description.
Hi Matt, do you remember what ohm resistors you used to lower the volume?
Hi, I had to look this up from the colour codes on the resistors at 4:20. Although these particular resistors don't make it very clear the values can be calculated and I recommend downloading a chart from Google images. The resistor with the green band is 1.5K and the one with the red band is 10K.
Whats the name of the screen, and how well is it still running?
Alpine iLX-702D
Hey I want to know when you start the vehicle I want to know what wire do I need for it to write discovery on it
Hi, you don't need to do anything special with the wiring on these, just to add a custom startup screen. I have added some links to the description to some guides and the logo image I made in Illustrator, you can use any image. Thanks for watching.
Hi!! Really nice video, what you did keeps the style of the Land Rover, upgrading an important part of older cars, so giving a screen as the new ones. I’ll do it but for the moment I have a newer radio with usb, Bluetooth... and it works perfectly with sound, so no amplifier needed for the speakers, but I have problems with radio signal, I bought a normal amplifier antenna and it didn’t work, I’ve seen that next to the radio there is another cable which doesn’t fit into the new radio, the male is thinner than the antenna one, and I don’t know what it is for, neither wether it has something to do with it. I don’t know if you can help me, where is the antenna?? Or is it better to buy an external antenna ? Will it work?? Many thanks in advance.
And I’ve seen that the radio has a cable that is cut, and it shows on a label steer wheel, but the connector that comes from the car has more cables in it, I don’t know neither if i can still use the remotes buttons of the steer wheel with the new radio. Thanks!!
This is a great set up. How did you get the land rover Series 2 logo to come on during boot up?
I made the logo picture to the right size and put it on a USB drive, if you have everything right the head unit will pick up the image and offer to set it as the start up logo. There are quite a few guides online but it differs between head units.
How did you make your little attenuation circuits? I can lower the lower of the audio output on my head unit but the beeps are still way too loud. Who ever had the wagon before me cut all the plugs off but for those who have the high line system, use the electric Ariel output wire to the blue & red wire to switch the amp on with the radio as not all radios have that functionality built in to the iso plugs.
Hi Chris. The type of attenuator I made and show at 4:11 is called an L-pad attenuator, it just use two resistors and basically acts as a voltage divider. Here's a tutorial page that goes into a lot of detail:
www.electronics-tutorials.ws/attenuators/l-pad-attenuator.html
I used a 10k Ohms (brown-black-black-red) and 500 Ohms (green-black-brown) resitor in each circuit, I can't actually remember how I came to these values but they worked well for me so maybe worth trying. It's something you can play around with using the formula in the tutorial. For my speaker wires the positive is without the black band and negative with.
The boards were built on cut up sections of perf-board, cheap to buy online. I got some crimps and re-crimped everything to use the ISO plugs.
@@MattTester Hi Matt, thanks for the info. I had already figured the 10K one out but not the other. Seeing as both are 5 band resistors, it would make the 2nd one as 1.5K as just noticed the very first brown ring on it. 🤦🏻♂️ Couldn’t see it on the other board as cable was in the way. Have plenty of bread (perf) board kicking around so if get too board over lockdown, might give that a go. Thanks for the info though.
Has this been a good head unit for you? Trying to score one now. Discontinued but there don't seem to be many around with the lower guts that will allow for the fit in the Discovery.
This was a great unit at the time, I haven't owned the Disco since August 2020 though. At a decent price used it would still be worth it, after having a Tesla Model 3 I would want something with a larger capacitive touch screen if I was buying new now. I'm not sure how old a unit can get before CarPlay or Android Auto stops working.
I'm considering putting a new head unit in my Mazda MX-5 and I've been looking at the Joying units, they don't have a brand name like Alpine behind them but they seem to be well made and have newer features. They also make single DIN units with large screens that are more like the Halo 9 and have the apps built-in so there's no need for CarPlay or Android Auto, if that's a positive or negative is up to you. Good luck with the project.
That was quite useful and interesting ! Ace 👍🏼
What was the model of the Alpine unit?
Hi, it's the iLX-702D. Still available but there might be better alternatives.
@@MattTester Would you be willing to 3 d print all the parts that you created along with supplying the wiring Necessary so make the steering wheel controls work I would pay you whatever you need this is A Us vehicle so left hand drive if it makes a difference Would you know if the radio unit you are using would work in the United States? I have found it On eBay for roughly $600
@@av6266 It just wouldn't be practical unfortunately, my printer is old now and doesn't produce parts I'd give to anyone else plus even just sending over the 3D printed parts and a Connects2 box would cost more to send than the items are worth. Someone local or Shapeways would be best to make the parts for you.
Cruchfield would probably make the steering controls adapter, I couldn't tell you if it would be different to the UK one though. Buying the Alpine radio from Europe probably isn't a good idea as the digital radio wouldn't work and it wouldn't be set up for satellite radio. You would be paying a lot for missing features.
My D2’s a work in progress it’s gunna have a naughty bass
Willing to share the 3D
File for that cover?
Hi, there are links to the Thingiverse pages for the 3D printed parts in the description and they are free to download. Thanks for watching.
I don't even own a Discovery but I watched the whole thing 😅
Wow nightmare job. Every single step you gotta reinvent the wheel. Salute for getting that done. That looks worse than 2000s Mercedes optical stereo
Thanks Ray, yeah maybe if I knew I'd have trouble with the amp I wouldn't have tried it. Nisse from Tirsbaek TV fitted one of these to his Disco 2 but didn't push it all the way back and also already had an aftermarket amp, so it was much easier for him.
Model Alpine INE-W977D ?
It's sold as the iLX-702D in the UK but it looks like the same model.
can i have the name of the part i need to get my wheelbuttoms working ? please i cant find it without the name
Hi, the Connects2 box is model CTSLR003.2. I bought mine from Dynamic Sounds on eBay: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400422308070
thanks alot i am building it in based on your video helped alot
Came across this video during my research. I've just tried fitting an aftermarket radio (Sony MEX-6001BD) to a 2004 facelift and have no audio output. I believe it's due to the amplifier under the passenger seat but I've not had time to play with the electrics to find out. It's the high line audio system. I'm just wondering if you experienced plug and play with the two standard ISO connectors or have something within your wiring to include the multicoloured connector?
I was able to just plug in the two ISO connectors and get sound, in my case it was too loud because of the factory amp and the power amp built in to the head unit. I consider myself lucky that no damage was done, I'm not sure how much power you can feed in to the factory amp without damaging it so I would recommend confirming that it still works with the factory head unit.
While looking up this head unit I did come across this video from Gosforth Handyman
talking of known issues with your head unit, having no sound was mentioned.
th-cam.com/video/ED55aiZj-R0/w-d-xo.html
Shame because it looks like a nice unit, if you have any spare car speakers kicking around that you can use to test for any output at all at the speaker ISO plug that might be handy.
While trying to work to do I had considered removing the amp and making a bypass connector to feed the input lines from the head unit directly to the speakers, but the high line system has 9 speakers so you would need to get creative with the wiring if you wanted to keep them all. I created a diagram from all of the wiring diagrams that shows the inputs and outputs with the connectors, might be helpful and at least shows you the wiring colours for the speakers.
www.matttester.co.uk/Misc/Discovery%202%20Amplifier%20Speaker%20Inputs%20Outputs%20Logical.pdf
Hope this helps.
@@MattTester hey Mat, would this have worked? www.crutchfield.com/p_142SLC4/Scosche-SLC4-Line-Output-Converter.html. I too am needing a new audio setup but I dont want to spend this kind of money and my area if it looks too sweet it may get stolen since my Disco has to sit out front by street... im looking at something more stealth but can replace my now non working ( cant turn off or on it just stays on) factory radio lol i do want seemless integration with my iphone though with bluetooth and im guesing carplay unless this has to be touch screen only? anyway even a smaller one like 4-5" screen woudl be ok.. still looking but not sure how it works with my landy alpine setup stock
@@dparham Hey Dennis. That looks like it would be perfect. I didn't know about it and it doesn't look like it's even sold in this country, it would've been ideal with gain adjustment. You would still need an adapter to convert RCA to ISO plug but they're pretty common and I can't say if you will be able to reduce or increase the gain enough but for the price it's well worth trying. Might be tricky fitting it in the dash because it looks quite big but there's always a way!
I haven't seen CarPlay without a touch screen, if you just want music Bluetooth will be fine but it's nice for navigation and you always have the phone charging. If you don't want to cut the dash those flip out units are still for sale and will be hidden when turned off.
Matt do you still have your discovery with this set up?
I don't unfortunately, I sold it in 2020.
Could I get one of the 3D-printed covers.. Please
the files are avaliable in the description
Hi, sorry I can't print and sell these but as Waveform replied, links to the files are available in the description for you to have printed locally.
How did you get the discovery series 2 logo to come up on start up?
Hi, I made the image myself in Illustrator and Alpine provide a guide to adding a custom startup screen as a Bitmap file. They even have some (pretty tacky) pre-made images:
www.alpine.co.uk/media-center/opening-screen-customisation.html
Fairly simple and really finishes off the installation.
Still pleased with the head unit you went with for your Discovery 2?
I sold the car in 2020 but I still think it was the right choice, I hope the new owners still like it.
Hey Matt,
Thanks for your great video!
I'm trying to install one of these radios into my Disco, but I have the base model radio, not the high-line model like you had.
I'm not sure how to fix the radio in place, as after taking my radio out, I'm left with a big hole, no frame or cage to mount on to except the plate a few centimeters under the radio.
I assume that when you re-installed the dash fascia, the radio was bolted in first, and to install/remove the fascia it has to be lifted up/down first?
I have yet to remove my fascia and take a close look underneath, but it looks like I need to get handy with some sheet metal.
My Discovery is an Australian 99 Td5 if that matters for design revisions.
Thanks,
David.
Hi David,
Thanks for watching! I'm not sure I've seen the base model of radio but I can think of a few options for you. The cage shown at 2:36 is the original one with holes drilled in the sides, I was going to use a universal single DIN cage at one point but the ones with little folding metal tabs just don't support themselves well it wasn't very secure. As you can kind of see the high line cage clips in at either side with sprung metal tabs and it's very secure, enough to keep the big Alpine head unit in place.
If you can find a good enough universal bracket that would work fine, maybe attach it to the back of the facia with fibreglass or epoxy to reinforce it. If you can get another facia at a fair price with the high-line cage already installed you not only have the cage but you have a fall back if you have an issue modifying the facia. I'm not sure how hard they are to come across now.
You could of course make your own cage and if you do it's best to focus on making those vertical connections to the facia as rigid as possible, to stop the whole thing from drooping at the back. If not, the back of the screen can still rest on something to keep it upright but it will probably shake around over bumps. The metal plate below is just there to provide screw points for the two screws below the radio slot (and to get in the way of your cables), but you could put a block on it to help support the body of the radio if you needed to. The original radio in mine had a peg installed at the back that located in a hole to keep it steady (seen at 2:14) but I couldn't think of a way of using this on the new radio, maybe you could come up with something.
You're correct that it was screwed in before installing, it's a great anti-theft feature and honestly after removing the facia a few times it becomes second nature. Disconnecting the vents and removing the coin holder/clock are the trickiest parts, for the former be careful not to knock the vent control arms off their ball joints when reinstalling and for the latter the trick of using two old credit cards above and below the clock/coin slot to release the tabs works very well (just don't use good ones because they get scratched). Otherwise it just pulls out forward and you don't even need to remove the AC controls with the electronic unit, they just unplug. I think the manual controls stay in place if I remember correctly from my old Disco 1.
It would be great to see the finished installation once you have it sorted, it was a huge upgrade and I miss this old Disco.
@@MattTester They are wonderful vehicles!
I think I will end up building my own cage. I also decided that the existing single DIN cages are too flimsy, mine is only held in by a very small metal lip around the plastic fascia.
I have the peg at the back which stops the radio from going in too far, and clips engage the (factory) single DIN cage to top the radio from sliding out. Similar to the weak single DIN cage design you see on eBay.
I will probably end up making an ISO compliant bracket that attaches to the plate beneath the radio hole, as it is the only relatively strong piece of metal within the fascia, the original system is too weak for the alpine!
I have taken out the clock to replace the bulb, and have looked behind the switches before, so it shouldn't be too difficult to take the rest of the fascia apart. I have the electronic AC controls, which makes my life easier.
I am taking off the fascia soon, and will take photos and add an imgur link when I do so.
I know Im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot the login password. I appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Conor Fabian Instablaster =)
@Terrence Kohen i really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Does this head unit work with android auto as well?
Yes it works with Android Auto, although I didn't test that myself as I only had an iPhone at the time.
Can u ship the 3D printed parts to the states?
Hi, my 3D printer isn't really up to making parts good enough to sell but I've uploaded the parts to Thingiverse and added links to the description. Maybe someone local can print them for you, it would be much cheaper than me shipping them over.
hey ive got a question. i just picked up a 2003 discovery and im curious if removing the stock radio and fitting it with an aftermarket radio will trigger the EKA Lockout/Immobiliser? I was reading up in the manual that the anti theft system will kick on if the radio is unplugged from the battery.
It didn't for me but who knows what had been messed with in the past, the radio didn't even lock out with the security code when the battery went flat. Best to have the code ready.
Thanks for in info. Great video 👍 of potential & options. I just got a 99 D2 with no code. Is this code the same one where key 🗝️ is used to reset EKA by turning key in door lock ? Cheers
@@acemoto2319 I don't believe that's the same code I'm afraid, it should be a 4 digit code that would be in the manual. There are some services to find the code, however I haven't used any of them.
I will comment on your other videos as I can see the problem, although you may have found that already.
@@MattTester Okay thanks Matt. I recently saw a Land Rover 2000 Discovery 2, (USA Left Driver side) TH-cam video with default code # 1515. So to Reset EKA, First turn key 5 Sec Left Lock position (or maybe Right Unlock) .... Then turn key to Unlock Right X1, Center then... Lock Left X 5, Unlock Right X1, Lock Left X 5. Then Center and then unlock. I'm going to try this default code. Seems a bit of confusion with USA and British locks since Driver doors are opposite. But maybe turning key Left (Counter clockwise) is always Lock and Right unlocks; no matter which continent.
Thank you again. Blessings
Could you share your 3-D print files?
Hi, the 3D printed parts are on Thingiverse and links are in the video description. Thanks for watching.
Hi the link is not working properly. I can't see any photos.
By the way grate information
Where did you buy it from? Can you send a link?
Hi, I got the head unit from a company called Dynamic Sounds in the UK, via eBay. This is a link but they're currently out of stock:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352141665739
Still available from a number of other places though so you should be able to find one locally. Thanks for watching.
Have a link to the stereo?
Yeah on Amazon UK it's www.amazon.co.uk/Alpine-Electronics-iLX-702D-Digital-Receiver/dp/B071GP91VJ, hopefully this should be an international link too: bit.ly/2PkHKoE. Thanks for watching.
are that 10k and 500 ohm?
10K and 1.5K, sorry the marking on these resistors is pretty bad. I can't remember exactly why I chose those values, it was either from an example I found online or a calculator.
you know if this can be done to a Discovery 1? great video
Thanks for watching. Yes it should definitely be possible in a Disco 1, the dashboard is basically the same so it should fit fine. You probably don't have an external amplifier so that will make things easier, I had an aftermarket radio in my Disco 1 with no problems.
I don't think there is an adapter to use the radio control buttons behind the steering wheel if you have those.
How can I get the screen and logo on the interface?
How can I get the screen and accessories
This is a good guide for adding the logo:
www.carplaylife.com/how-to/how-to-install-a-custom-launch-screen-in-a-alpine-ilx-700ilx-007/
I bought the head unit from an eBay seller, I've dropped a link in the description to the 3D printable parts.
Thanks for the info, do you have the specific model of the Connects2 box for the Discovery 2?
Or is that dependant on the head unit you choose? (I dont have the budget for the one you're using haha)
Greetings from the Netherlands
Hi, the Connects2 box is model CTSLR003.2, it uses standard ISO connectors so should work with any aftermarket head unit. You do end up with a large bundle of cables but there is space in the dash.
The UK seller I used still has the same unit for sale:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400422308070
Thanks for watching.
@@MattTester sadly getting it to the Netherlands costs more than the connects2 box so I'll use the head unit without steering wheel controls first and see if i really mis them.
as per the previous comments, do you sell the 3d printed parts or have the files? I'm located in the uk
Hi, my 3D printer isn't really up to making parts to sell but I've uploaded the parts to Thingiverse and added links to the description. Thanks for the interest.
Hi mate this looks amazing and I'd like to do something very similar. Could you please send me the specs and the build so I can follow. Thank you.
Hi Alex, did you get the information regarding the specific information regarding the fitting of Alpine unit?
Hi Alex, I'm afraid I don't have much more information. The head unit it an Alpine iLX-702D single DIN, not sure if you can still buy these. The lower 3D printed fill-in piece is 22mm deep so if you planned to use that and the top cover, the front of the head unit (with outer trim) would need to be 22mm ahead of the mounting aperture and the top of the dash cut to accommodate it. I don't have the exact location of the mounting holes in the original cage, this could all be done to your preference if you didn't want to use my 3D printed parts. I sold the Discovery in 2020 so I'm unable to get any measurements.
@@MattTester thank you for the information, I have checked in eBay and yes it’s still available. However it’s expensive but not only that, it’s unit only and additional wiring and adapters plus the sound issues, and I don’t have a 3d printer, this is special equipment made for certain purposes like engineering etc and well all this together and I’m not going to pursue this any further. When all said and done, my original unit works fine and I am from that era and have countless tapes and cds! Cheers though for the information 👍
@@stephenlong9809 Completely understandable. It was a lot of work, I'm not sure I would do it again with things like Bluetooth tape adapters and bigger phone screens. I think I just wanted to see if it could be done!
Perfect. Looks great
Well I’m stuffed! I don’t have a 3D printer, or steering wheel controls. Next? 🧐🤔😖
I suppose you could whittle the parts from wood! Not having the controls makes things a bit easier, less wiring to cram inside the dash.
Nice vid mate but I dont have a bloody 🖨 yea I might tackle this on me self with some fiberglass cheers! Carry on
Not so much useful, as i'm happy with the cheap crap i pulled out of my collection of old to fill the 'hole' that came with my Disco 2. It was certainly interesting though! And as it's now 02:09 i'll switch off the monitor and go to sleep...
great video. thanks
Vert vert good job tank you vert very match
Ha mine had a tape !!!!! 2002... i mean who...???? ha... I have to fit mine tomorrow.. dreading it bcs im no good at that. Mines an apple airplay one.
Cool .
😁
Nice!
You are a badass
Who wants to make the wires for me?
2024 and still using tapes. I'm just old and don't care
I respect that, if I still had the car I think I would've changed it back. I'm actually disappointed that my 2002 Freelander has a CD player instead of a tape deck.
@@MattTester I did think about changing it like you did but I got this thing about old tech. It probably is my age ( 51) . Our old camper needs a head unit so be looking at a DAB kit for that though, nothing to fancy.