*Support What We Do at The Katz-Moses Store* lddy.no/stih ¼-20 Handles ($3.81) - www.mcmaster.com/62385K32/ ¼-20 Tap ($6.50)- www.mcmaster.com/2523A411/ Bits and Bits is the BEST place to buy router bits: bit.ly/BitsBits USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 for 15% off
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
I just finished building the handrail on my deck th-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z and used this great little router to clean up the top rail before the final sanding and stain. It was light weight but packed lots of power. Either size battery didn't seem to make it top heavy and I'm a 64 yr old women so I really appreciated how easy it was to use...................... CORDLESS only way to go !!
I am very thankful for the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO that has been a tremendous help to me in building a perfect outdoor shed. I have been facing many challenges and difficulties for a long time, but this plan has guided me to correct the mistakes during the process. I am impressed by the projects and I express my gratitude to the creator of this collection of plans.
Yes! I used a slightly thicker acrylicfor my old B&D 2 HP router, about 8mm thick (ashade over 5/16") and it was plenty rigid to hold up well with that heavier router.
Remember back in the 70’s-80’s when trim routers were known as laminate routers and the kits came with multiple bases. I still have an old porter-cable kit with an offset base that allows trimming to within 5/8 of an obstruction, a tilting base and a seaming base. I use them more for veneering than laminates these days. If you can get your hands on an old kit buy it, the older ones had incredible build quality.
My first router came with a base centering cone. I have an old trim router that is off center the bit is at the end of a 90° corner and it’s belt driven it’s pretty cool to have when I need it. Hopefully I can find the right belt when it breaks because it’s looking kinda bad.
Your video editing far surpasses so many others. My pet peeve is constant looped music throughout the video, even during narration. Your music use is outstanding.
This is a perfect video. The nuance and finer details are so spot on. When I watch your videos, I know that you aren't messin' round. I like the 1/4 20 handles!
Nice and simple! Will definitely be building one of these. Something else I learned from Tamar's channel for setting the bit height is you can set a piece of paper under the bit when you set your initial height if you're worried about messing up your work surface. Will leave your inlay just slightly proud.
I made one of these bases out of plexiglass years and years ago for my Rigid 2401. Your 1/2" is a little thick, my plex is 1/4" and stiff enough. I use this setup to clean out the bottom of dovetail tails, so I need that extra 1/4" depth. The only time this base comes out the trimmer is when I need to use a bushing. Lee Valley/Veritas is the only place I found that sells a bushing base for this router.
I'm new to routers. I haven't even bought one yet. So I'm watching as many videos as I can about them. I have found your videos to be the most helpful. Please tell me what type of bit is it that you are using with these jigs.
Here’s a neat little trick to get the bolt pattern easily dead-on correct for your router without taking a single measurement: 1) Drill the center hole for the bit, size it to fit the M4 screw without wiggling. 2) Snugly attach one corner of the router base to the center hole and square the base to the material edge. Drill the first screw hole with your router. Rotate the base 180 degrees, square to the same reference edge as before and drill the second hole. 3) Switch the corner you use to attach the router base to the center hole and drill the remaining two holes like you did in step 2. P.S. If the bolt pattern is square (not just rectangular) you can rotate the router base 90 degrees in step 2 and drill all holes with the same attachment.
I've accumulated a number of palm routers, all bought used for dedicated set-up with a single bit in various jigs. Of the lot I recommend the Ridgid and the Bosch Colt. Steer clear of the pre-Colt Bosches. Most of mine were bought through local auctions or eBay. They were either very cheap and somewhat battered or virtually new for about half of list price. Try to get routers that still are accompanied by their wrenches. Check the condition of the collet if possible. Some collets will be broken or deformed to the point of uselessness by tightening their retainer nut with no bit in place.
Excellent tip. I have ones for full size routers to act as outriggers but have never tried ones for trim routers. Great tip for flushing and trimming dowels and plugs.
Saludos maestro de Aguascalientes México Fransisco Gamez gracias por enseñarnos a aprender y regalarnos de su valioso tiempo un abrazo muy fuerte bendiciones para usted y toda su familia 😊👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 es usted genial
About your apron, I’ve had mine for a few months now. Just starting to break it in. I am finding it very helpful. I am starting to figure out what I want to carry and where everything goes. No joke, it is worth the price of the apron just to have my pencil always available! Just that alone is saving me time and trips around the shop looking for a damn pencil. No matter how many pencils I deploy around the shop I can never easily find one. Great apron.
Nice router jigs. I love how each person finds their own solution to similar problems. For instance, for flushing dowels and through-tenons, I have a small piece of 1/4" ply with an oval cut out of it. I place the oval over the tenon and use the router set to the thickness of my ply and just raster over it. Then, like you said, some light sanding and done.
You have perfect timing. I just bought a Makita trim router yesterday. I have to heal from elbow reconstruction surgery before I can use the info in this, but love the video and jig ideas! Keep up the great work; you are rea;;y helping rookies like me!!
Great tip on the collet wrenches. I figured this one out years ago rebuilding engines. Haven't even thought about it since until a couple days ago changing bits out on my router table. Really cool router bases. I'll have to do this.
"Hi, my name is Jonathan and I'm addicted to trim routers". Love the video👍 I finally have a place where I can make the jigs I want and the space to store them. It looks like I will be busy for a few days....
If you have transfer punches, they are more exact size. They come in a set of different sizes, so you can me more precise in your location of hole positions.
Ahh, spring cleaning only to discover those little gems you made so long ago? I just cleaned out my work truck and found stuff I forgot I had. I think I will do this twice a year from now on.
I found that a dovetail bit works better for dowels and tail cut. Also for enclosed jigs use a bushing rather than screwing to the base makes it easier to use any router and allows the cord and vac hose to move freely. B
Great video. I actually just used this. I made a jig for my palm router with the open mouth to allow me to trim some dovetails which were protruding a bit. I guess i had my dovetail bit a little too deep when I cut them. Worked great and saved me a lot of sanding.
LOL, hey Jonathan, thanks for sharing. I know that you know, but you cut a 10" diameter circle, or a 5" radius circle at timestamp 5:xx. Keep on being helpful. Love your channel.
Thanks Jonathan! Great stuff, as always. I really appreciate your content. You have a great way of explaining things. And you’re always showing some really neat new way of doing things!
I grabbed that saw from you (I already have the guide block; works great). I'm in the market for a palm router and would love to see you compare them if that works out. Thanks for all the work you put in. NO ZERO DAYS!
I just make these and attaché them with carpet tape then throw them away when done. Carpet tape is something I wish I had known about 10 years earlier. I’ve never had it fail I use it for all sorts of templates and on finished surfaces so no nail or screw holes also I also use it on the table saw to cut one off tapers or joint an edge on an uneven board.
These are great jigs but i think you forgot or over looked one. A base plate to fit the makita/festool track saw rail? Got a rail + Got a Router = Dado in the middle of a long board.
great vid mate and really useful jigs....when marking the holes for the base of the trim router, maybe try a hinge set drill bit, sometimes called a vix bit(?)centers the drill bit into the hole...just a thought...thanks for the vid, very useful :)
Hi sir jon, i love the jigs ur showing. Sadly my dewalt 6000 base holder was damage. The plastic between its lockiing belt was broken. I wonder if you can show other jigs so i can use my router. Or u might show us how to repair it. I would appreciate it. Thanks you.
I'd like to remind everyone that these cute little routers are fully capable of removing all the flesh of your fingers. Danger is there is no double safety on off switch which you have to keep pushed. Also there are not 2 handles to give both your hands a safe and logical place. The side is open.. all of this makes your brain go in to the same risk mode as like an electric screwdriver. Big mistake. Treat m like a snake
@@talleysuehohlfeld3959 I'd say try to use a router which has 2 firm handles with the power switch in the handle. Then you have it firm in your hand. Make the jigs for that kind of router. Use the palm router only when the safer one is not possible. Hold it firmly with two hands when switching it on. The cheap ones don't have soft start. I would add, try to use a stationary router whenever possible. And regularly check the wear on the collets/chucks of cheap routers. They are not as precise as good brands and use cheaper steel. The last thing you want is it coming loose and fly through your scrotum:) Although tightening it too hard might damage it... If you can spare the money just buy the original Makita palm router. Or another true responsible brand. These things spin at incredible rpm so it's best to have a brand that you trust. A good brand has a reputation on the line and the risk of lawsuits. No-name 'CE' brands don't care.... Maybe where a face mask and leather apron. Don't wear gloves...
Great ideas there Johnathan. A while ago I was working on a project where i could have reached used something like that. I can’t remember now what the project was and just why I didn’t/couldn’t think to put something so simple together is kind of annoying in a funny way now. Love your channel, I almost always learn something new from your videos.
A perment base with a 3 or 4 shape bit area made out of acrylics plastics you could also use as a jasper circle jig. The frt shap can be changed out and is held in place using a dovetail slide.
Yesterday, I used a trim router to clean up the hardwood edging on the router table I am currently making. The edge is about 15mm rimu (about all we can get in New Zealand) and the table 31mm thick kitchen worktop. I found it difficult to keep the router perfectly flat on the outside edge because of its relatively narrow width, and would love to know of any tricks to make this work better. Fortunately I practiced on the underside of the table top, and I managed to do an OK job of the top side, but not perfect.
oh wow, this I’ll bet you could make one that would be perfect for flush trimming hardwood edge banding. I am definitely gonna try that out. Every way i currently do it, sander, block plane, chisel, etc. i always cut into the super thin veneer at least somewhere. I think this way is gonna work great.
Yeah I've made basically the same jig for a full-size router to flush up hardwood edge banding. It works great, but you'll want to use a bit big enough to do the whole thing in one pass. I also used an edge guide at the same time so you don't have to guide it the whole time.
Just one ( or more) question... suppose I want to make my own dowels? (Or is this a very stupid question?) How can I make my own? Kind Regards, T. (absolute beginner)
I’m totally amazed that, in the last 47 years of woodworking (albeit with only about 15 years with a router) that I had not thought of these jigs. We will make several of these jigs on Monday. We also use pegs that protrude 3mm or so (purely aesthetic) and it would be easy to adjust bit height to achieve that.
Great tip! I would like to see more of this type of content. Solutions and short cuts to flatten the learning curve for us newbies. BTW, has Jason gotten his two bottles of whiskey yet? 😆
How would I make a baseplate with an offset bearing, so I could follow an outside curve? Like for instance I have a solid body guitar that is a curved shape, and I want to hollow out at a specific parallel thickness. I hope this makes sense and you can help me. After much searching I have not found a way to do this.
The higher amperage trim routers can do almost everything a bigger motor can do. The DeWalt dwp611 is 7 amp, with 1 1/4 horsepower. There are a few others at 5 & 6 amp. The only thing you give up is the shank size.
Is tapping the plywood overkill? Or does it keep the internal threads in better condition during repeated plate switching? Thus increasing the lifespan?
*Support What We Do at The Katz-Moses Store* lddy.no/stih
¼-20 Handles ($3.81) - www.mcmaster.com/62385K32/
¼-20 Tap ($6.50)- www.mcmaster.com/2523A411/
Bits and Bits is the BEST place to buy router bits: bit.ly/BitsBits USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 for 15% off
Aa
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
I just finished building the handrail on my deck th-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z and used this great little router to clean up the top rail before the final sanding and stain. It was light weight but packed lots of power. Either size battery didn't seem to make it top heavy and I'm a 64 yr old women so I really appreciated how easy it was to use...................... CORDLESS only way to go !!
I am very thankful for the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO that has been a tremendous help to me in building a perfect outdoor shed. I have been facing many challenges and difficulties for a long time, but this plan has guided me to correct the mistakes during the process. I am impressed by the projects and I express my gratitude to the creator of this collection of plans.
1/4 clear acrylic works great for these. a little more visibility if you need it
Yes! I used a slightly thicker acrylicfor my old B&D 2 HP router, about 8mm thick (ashade over 5/16") and it was plenty rigid to hold up well with that heavier router.
Remember back in the 70’s-80’s when trim routers were known as laminate routers and the kits came with multiple bases. I still have an old porter-cable kit with an offset base that allows trimming to within 5/8 of an obstruction, a tilting base and a seaming base. I use them more for veneering than laminates these days. If you can get your hands on an old kit buy it, the older ones had incredible build quality.
My first router came with a base centering cone. I have an old trim router that is off center the bit is at the end of a 90° corner and it’s belt driven it’s pretty cool to have when I need it. Hopefully I can find the right belt when it breaks because it’s looking kinda bad.
Your video editing far surpasses so many others. My pet peeve is constant looped music throughout the video, even during narration. Your music use is outstanding.
For centering drill holes in your wood using the base as a template, you could use one of those self centering bits for hinges. Works great.
This is a perfect video. The nuance and finer details are so spot on. When I watch your videos, I know that you aren't messin' round. I like the 1/4 20
handles!
Excellent thanks, perhaps, things we all should know but don't. You are an outstanding teacher.
The trick about squeezing two wrenches together at 8:30 is a good one. I use that technique when I adjust the bearing cones on bicycle hubs.
Nice and simple! Will definitely be building one of these.
Something else I learned from Tamar's channel for setting the bit height is you can set a piece of paper under the bit when you set your initial height if you're worried about messing up your work surface. Will leave your inlay just slightly proud.
circle cutting jigs i've heard of, but using a palm router for flushing up dowels and joints is something i'd never considered. awesome tips
Just stumbled upon this YTV ,! Exactly what I was needing . Thanks !
I am just starting to learn how to use my trim router (first router of any type.) your video(s) are saved for future reference
Katz Moses, it is always worth time watching your videos. You are great at what you do. Thanks.
I made one of these bases out of plexiglass years and years ago for my Rigid 2401. Your 1/2" is a little thick, my plex is 1/4" and stiff enough. I use this setup to clean out the bottom of dovetail tails, so I need that extra 1/4" depth. The only time this base comes out the trimmer is when I need to use a bushing. Lee Valley/Veritas is the only place I found that sells a bushing base for this router.
I have that same Ridgid trim router trim and made these jigs for it, and they work great.
I'm new to routers. I haven't even bought one yet. So I'm watching as many videos as I can about them. I have found your videos to be the most helpful. Please tell me what type of bit is it that you are using with these jigs.
I'm amazed at how simple and useful these jigs are. Definitely a technique that we should all have in our back pockets. As always, great video!
In all my 55 years of furniture making from age 12, I never thought to use router to clean up dovetails - and I usually do know the tips and tricks.
You are great and super, Thank you for providing me the best knowledge and video
Here’s a neat little trick to get the bolt pattern easily dead-on correct for your router without taking a single measurement:
1) Drill the center hole for the bit, size it to fit the M4 screw without wiggling.
2) Snugly attach one corner of the router base to the center hole and square the base to the material edge. Drill the first screw hole with your router. Rotate the base 180 degrees, square to the same reference edge as before and drill the second hole.
3) Switch the corner you use to attach the router base to the center hole and drill the remaining two holes like you did in step 2.
P.S. If the bolt pattern is square (not just rectangular) you can rotate the router base 90 degrees in step 2 and drill all holes with the same attachment.
I've accumulated a number of palm routers, all bought used for dedicated set-up with a single bit in various jigs. Of the lot I recommend the Ridgid and the Bosch Colt. Steer clear of the pre-Colt Bosches. Most of mine were bought through local auctions or eBay. They were either very cheap and somewhat battered or virtually new for about half of list price. Try to get routers that still are accompanied by their wrenches. Check the condition of the collet if possible. Some collets will be broken or deformed to the point of uselessness by tightening their retainer nut with no bit in place.
This is great. It had never really occurred to me that I could use something other than the little base that came with the trim router. Thank you.
Excellent tip. I have ones for full size routers to act as outriggers but have never tried ones for trim routers. Great tip for flushing and trimming dowels and plugs.
Thanks for sharing a few tips appreciated from a complete newbie.
Thanks my friend
Saludos maestro de Aguascalientes México Fransisco Gamez gracias por enseñarnos a aprender y regalarnos de su valioso tiempo un abrazo muy fuerte bendiciones para usted y toda su familia 😊👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 es usted genial
About your apron, I’ve had mine for a few months now. Just starting to break it in. I am finding it very helpful. I am starting to figure out what I want to carry and where everything goes. No joke, it is worth the price of the apron just to have my pencil always available! Just that alone is saving me time and trips around the shop looking for a damn pencil. No matter how many pencils I deploy around the shop I can never easily find one. Great apron.
Nice router jigs. I love how each person finds their own solution to similar problems. For instance, for flushing dowels and through-tenons, I have a small piece of 1/4" ply with an oval cut out of it. I place the oval over the tenon and use the router set to the thickness of my ply and just raster over it. Then, like you said, some light sanding and done.
Transfer punches for marking the base screws. Relatively cheap, get used often in the shop.
Very useful indeed! We now use this in our production work. Thank you
You have perfect timing. I just bought a Makita trim router yesterday. I have to heal from elbow reconstruction surgery before I can use the info in this, but love the video and jig ideas! Keep up the great work; you are rea;;y helping rookies like me!!
Great tip on the collet wrenches. I figured this one out years ago rebuilding engines. Haven't even thought about it since until a couple days ago changing bits out on my router table.
Really cool router bases. I'll have to do this.
One of my most used "tips." I used to bust my knuckles constantly on the cnc and router table
I just bought a flush-trim router, I am lovin' it - those are some good additions that I will be adding eventually.
Like your idea of having Taps on hand. Milwaukee makes a Shockwave Drill & Tap Combo for under $10.
Thanks I love jigs that help a person do a job much easier and precise 🇨🇦
Great video, Jonathan~! This will be added to the top of my To-Do list....as well as picking up a trim router~! Thanks much~!
Very clever, useful jigs. Thanx 4 sharing.
Trim Router Jigs! Very unique. Thanks for always delivering superior content!
This is a great tip JKM! Definitely using this
My guy!
"Hi, my name is Jonathan and I'm addicted to trim routers". Love the video👍 I finally have a place where I can make the jigs I want and the space to store them. It looks like I will be busy for a few days....
Killer video Jonathan! Keep up the great work!
Really high quality video and instruction!! Router Jigs always seemed out of my depth - pun intended 😏 - until I watched this! Thanks for your help!!!
If you have transfer punches, they are more exact size. They come in a set of different sizes, so you can me more precise in your location of hole positions.
I'm new to this... so Thank You Sir.
Ahh, spring cleaning only to discover those little gems you made so long ago? I just cleaned out my work truck and found stuff I forgot I had. I think I will do this twice a year from now on.
These are awesome Thank you! The plug jig would work great for pocket hole plugs too.
Home Depot sells 5" x 36" x .25" walnut "hobby boards" that I've found to be really useful for trim router jigs and bases.
that's good to know! Thanks. I forget about the fact that you can buy hardwoods sometimes at Home Depot.
Make them from plexy glass . Much better outfit . Bases won't warp. And they don't blind you from seeing . I do this for a living
One of these days, I'm hoping to see Danny pop into the video for real, that would be amazing.
You and me both
@@katzmosestools He will come out of a couch like he did in always sunny
Thank you! I learn something new, useful, neat or all three whenever I watch your videos.
I found that a dovetail bit works better for dowels and tail cut. Also for enclosed jigs use a bushing rather than screwing to the base makes it easier to use any router and allows the cord and vac hose to move freely. B
Great video. I actually just used this. I made a jig for my palm router with the open mouth to allow me to trim some dovetails which were protruding a bit. I guess i had my dovetail bit a little too deep when I cut them. Worked great and saved me a lot of sanding.
LOL, hey Jonathan, thanks for sharing. I know that you know, but you cut a 10" diameter circle, or a 5" radius circle at timestamp 5:xx. Keep on being helpful. Love your channel.
Hahaha I was waiting for someone to point that out.
Thanks Jonathan! Great stuff, as always. I really appreciate your content. You have a great way of explaining things. And you’re always showing some really neat new way of doing things!
This is a great jig! I thought I've seen all the useful jigs on youtube already
The subtle finger-wags to those of us with dirty minds make me feel heard. Thank you and I'm sorry.
Hahahaha
Fantastic tips, Jonathan! Thanks a lot! 😃
I'm going to make a few of those!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I grabbed that saw from you (I already have the guide block; works great). I'm in the market for a palm router and would love to see you compare them if that works out. Thanks for all the work you put in. NO ZERO DAYS!
If you have Dewalt tools and you act quick Home Depot is giving a free 5AH battery with purchase of the bare tool trim router. It’s a great deal.
Many thanks, very useful information.
Brilliant jig Sir 👌👌😊thank you so much .
which of those routers do you lifecycle best?
which one has the best micro depth adjustment, or doesn’t it matter?
Super tips. I have the makita RT0700C router and i really love that little thing. It is so versatile :-)
Thank you just got a trim touter these will help
I just make these and attaché them with carpet tape then throw them away when done. Carpet tape is something I wish I had known about 10 years earlier. I’ve never had it fail I use it for all sorts of templates and on finished surfaces so no nail or screw holes also I also use it on the table saw to cut one off tapers or joint an edge on an uneven board.
These are great jigs but i think you forgot or over looked one. A base plate to fit the makita/festool track saw rail? Got a rail + Got a Router = Dado in the middle of a long board.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Great tips Jonathan! I 90-degree base plate for flush trimming, that a nice way to save some time!
great vid mate and really useful jigs....when marking the holes for the base of the trim router, maybe try a hinge set drill bit, sometimes called a vix bit(?)centers the drill bit into the hole...just a thought...thanks for the vid, very useful :)
Hi sir jon, i love the jigs ur showing. Sadly my dewalt 6000 base holder was damage. The plastic between its lockiing belt was broken. I wonder if you can show other jigs so i can use my router. Or u might show us how to repair it. I would appreciate it. Thanks you.
I'd like to remind everyone that these cute little routers are fully capable of removing all the flesh of your fingers.
Danger is there is no double safety on off switch which you have to keep pushed. Also there are not 2 handles to give both your hands a safe and logical place. The side is open.. all of this makes your brain go in to the same risk mode as like an electric screwdriver. Big mistake. Treat m like a snake
Have a scar across half of my left palm because of it, don't try it at home
The tip of my thumb knows this to be true.
would you suggest a modification to the jigs to counteract some of these problems?
@@talleysuehohlfeld3959 I'd say try to use a router which has 2 firm handles with the power switch in the handle. Then you have it firm in your hand.
Make the jigs for that kind of router.
Use the palm router only when the safer one is not possible. Hold it firmly with two hands when switching it on. The cheap ones don't have soft start.
I would add, try to use a stationary router whenever possible.
And regularly check the wear on the collets/chucks of cheap routers. They are not as precise as good brands and use cheaper steel. The last thing you want is it coming loose and fly through your scrotum:)
Although tightening it too hard might damage it...
If you can spare the money just buy the original Makita palm router. Or another true responsible brand. These things spin at incredible rpm so it's best to have a brand that you trust.
A good brand has a reputation on the line and the risk of lawsuits. No-name 'CE' brands don't care....
Maybe where a face mask and leather apron. Don't wear gloves...
Great ideas there Johnathan. A while ago I was working on a project where i could have reached used something like that. I can’t remember now what the project was and just why I didn’t/couldn’t think to put something so simple together is kind of annoying in a funny way now. Love your channel, I almost always learn something new from your videos.
Can't believe I've never seen this before. Good vid.
Maybe because the video didn't exist until about 24 hours ago?
You could use a Vix bit to locate the holes or I also have a self-centering punch that would do it.
A perment base with a 3 or 4 shape bit area made out of acrylics plastics you could also use as a jasper circle jig.
The frt shap can be changed out and is held in place using a dovetail slide.
Good ideas! Thanks for sharing!
With the exception of the circle I don’t see the need for these shaped jigs, surely any slice of timber underneath forms the same outcome?
Yesterday, I used a trim router to clean up the hardwood edging on the router table I am currently making. The edge is about 15mm rimu (about all we can get in New Zealand) and the table 31mm thick kitchen worktop. I found it difficult to keep the router perfectly flat on the outside edge because of its relatively narrow width, and would love to know of any tricks to make this work better. Fortunately I practiced on the underside of the table top, and I managed to do an OK job of the top side, but not perfect.
Great video and tips thank you
oh wow, this I’ll bet you could make one that would be perfect for flush trimming hardwood edge banding. I am definitely gonna try that out. Every way i currently do it, sander, block plane, chisel, etc. i always cut into the super thin veneer at least somewhere. I think this way is gonna work great.
Yeah I've made basically the same jig for a full-size router to flush up hardwood edge banding. It works great, but you'll want to use a bit big enough to do the whole thing in one pass. I also used an edge guide at the same time so you don't have to guide it the whole time.
Great idea and thank you for sharing.
After running a tap through drip a little CA glue into the threads to harden the threads
Oh man. This will save me hours.
Very, very helpful, thank you!
Just one ( or more) question... suppose I want to make my own dowels? (Or is this a very stupid question?)
How can I make my own? Kind Regards, T. (absolute beginner)
Good vidéo 👍
I bust my knuckles the other day taking a bit out. thanks for this :D
Wondering whether this idea work for removing laminate and Formica :) going to try it out :D
damn it works :)))
Appreciate your videos and really like the apron I got from you guys!
Thanks bud!
I’m totally amazed that, in the last 47 years of woodworking (albeit with only about 15 years with a router) that I had not thought of these jigs. We will make several of these jigs on Monday. We also use pegs that protrude 3mm or so (purely aesthetic) and it would be easy to adjust bit height to achieve that.
This is nice👏👏👍
Great tip! I would like to see more of this type of content. Solutions and short cuts to flatten the learning curve for us newbies.
BTW, has Jason gotten his two bottles of whiskey yet? 😆
He has and he's been to my house to drink some of mine.
Great video editing and shooting. Bravo!
How would I make a baseplate with an offset bearing, so I could follow an outside curve? Like for instance I have a solid body guitar that is a curved shape, and I want to hollow out at a specific parallel thickness. I hope this makes sense and you can help me. After much searching I have not found a way to do this.
Please do do a tools day for trim routers!
I've got a non trim router, should I get a trim router too?
They're definitely useful for some things
The higher amperage trim routers can do almost everything a bigger motor can do. The DeWalt dwp611 is 7 amp, with 1 1/4 horsepower. There are a few others at 5 & 6 amp. The only thing you give up is the shank size.
simple answer, yes.
A Vix bit for drilling the router base holes ? 🤔
Thanks, good video! Happy Passover
Tricks and Ticks! Thanks Jon
I wonder if there is a jig to cope baseboards.
Is tapping the plywood overkill? Or does it keep the internal threads in better condition during repeated plate switching? Thus increasing the lifespan?