I've always called your saws, strokers. 50 years ago I lived at the 1/4 mile drag strip. My motors were long strokers. I know 2 cycle versus 4 stroke. Good boat motors have small bores & long rods. Anyway I like your thought process. Later.
Road King, I think you'd love it!! My Brother in-law rides Gold Wings and had to pick up a Road King for a client so he got to drive it for an afternoon bringing it to Maine from New Jersey. You should have seen the grin on his face.
In my pipe building, ive found the pipes that twist with angled/cut pipe, the charge swirls and starts to spin like a vortex. This can be seen by washing the pipe, and the water will come out of the pipe clung to the walls and like a reverse vortex. This could be helping the scavenging inaide the chamber by pulling the charge in a swirling motion. They may use more fuel due to this effect aswell, as none of the charge is coming back in like a tuned pipe but the more out and more in is better in my findings.
@alltherpm if that's all that was occurring every pipe would work... thats not what I've experienced. There's got to be something else starting the draw/suction.
my 384 has the dumbest throttle cable routing, it comes out of the case over an inch off of straight-up to the throttle lever, and i had to gumball a bunch of small pieces to extend the throttle shaft for a straighter pull. when i ported it my wife came into the shop while it was really windy, and the door slammed! shut while i was shaping the lower transfer port and i gouged a "tear drop" extension toward the upper transfers, it was radical, quite a trench, but i had to clean it-up and match it anyway, and it ran great, started easily, had tons of torque, it seemed to have no effect except it will empty the tank quicker. then i found out what that mod did. i had my 36 inch bar on to buck an elm that was just over 4 feet in diameter, and oh my god, did i discover what that "mistake" did. i actually made two mistakes that morning. i hadn't used the 36" bar since i dropped that monster, and had forgotten i had square filed it new for the drop, and i just had a round file, so i ran the file until it just bit into the teeth, and bucked. it repeatedly went through that elm in about 30 seconds, no bullshit, i timed it, 30-35 seconds, it was through that trunk "like butta". and i realized with that load on the saw, it had kind of a "low-gear" it went into that just threw a geyser of really nice chips in a dense shower. what i think happened is that lower port deformation allowed the saw to pull more fuel under full load, and i was kicking myself for not having a camera. but that elm, all 110 feet of it, is in my woodshed, dry as toast. i also noted that putting a round file into a square filed chain created teeth that were pretty much five-sided razor blades, and that was proved instantly.
😊😊 HI TINMAN U should always redone a cylinder 2 clean the cylinder up and it will help the piston rings seat alot better and help it have good 👍 😊 compression from loosing HP 😊😊 OMG 11 5 2O24
Very nice build. On the subject of trimming and running a saw with no woodruff key, how or where do you lock it down to get a running saw. Maybe a good teaching video to explain the ins and outs. My 272xp build has sheared two keys from kick back. The mag has a molded key. Would be nice to see a clean, clearly explained video on this aspect of a build. Again nice saw. TC Mahalo Tinman 🤙🤙🤙
@tdawg8605 I don't want to horn in where I wasn't asked, but in case nobody else answers... the timing key, often mislabeled a "shear key", is only there to correctly orient the flywheel. I run flywheels without keys. I've heard of the keys shearing off before; each time, the shaft or the flywheel was the culprit; the surfaces lock like a morse taper. It doesn't take much of an imperfection to disrupt the locking-together of the two tapers... I little bit of dirt, a "ding" in the flywheel or on the shaft, or about anything. I would hazard a guess, that once one spun, it will be difficult to get it to ever hold again without working the surface(s). Again, hope I didn't step on anyone's toes; further, if there's a different response, a good rule of thumb is to take their advice over mine.
@HayChaffandSawdust1 Thanks for the feedback. All info is good info I say. This 272xp I put together with parts. It never did run. I have a running 272xp that I built and the coil died on it this October. When I tried to swap out the coil from the none running saw, my running saw would not run. I had another old coil so I put it in and my running 272xp started up right away. So I took the old coil out of the running 272xp and tried it in the non-running 272xp and it fired and started but ran poorly, it back fired on a restart and sheared the key. So I was just going to run it without a key however I can't seem to get the timing correct. That's why I'm searching for timing info. If it kicks back is my timing too advanced or not enough? It's been a test of my patience for sure, this saw. Thanks again.
When u say u built it for idling and trigger response, well if u listen to crazy horse any improvement on case volocity does the opposite, snappier the saw the smaller the case volume,,, i would think porting would inlarge volume?
I cut for a wk then had to switch chains for crappy wood,, didn't have to get a rag and an air compressor to clean it, dgp kept it clean, and I'm anal about my saws
Wow 60,000 🤯 congratulations my guy I remember the setup when you were about to stop making videos with under 1000subs. Amazing channel glad to see you stuck with it. 🦾🧬🎯
😊😊 HI TIMAN 👋 😊 that other pipe didn't work because it didn't have the air flow it needed it should've made the saw pull just like the old school 🏫 😊 saws it should pull just like a tractor 🚜 😊 and a pipe there's no baffle in the muffler either and the sparkplug should be tan or light brown 😊😊 OMG 11 5 2O24
Perfect color on the plug.. that's tuned
Enjoy looking into your build. Helps out a lot.
I've always called your saws, strokers. 50 years ago I lived at the 1/4 mile drag strip. My motors were long strokers. I know 2 cycle versus 4 stroke. Good boat motors have small bores & long rods. Anyway I like your thought process. Later.
Road King, I think you'd love it!! My Brother in-law rides Gold Wings and had to pick up a Road King for a client so he got to drive it for an afternoon bringing it to Maine from New Jersey. You should have seen the grin on his face.
Danny great job on your pipe sounds great nice work jb.
In my pipe building, ive found the pipes that twist with angled/cut pipe, the charge swirls and starts to spin like a vortex.
This can be seen by washing the pipe, and the water will come out of the pipe clung to the walls and like a reverse vortex. This could be helping the scavenging inaide the chamber by pulling the charge in a swirling motion.
They may use more fuel due to this effect aswell, as none of the charge is coming back in like a tuned pipe but the more out and more in is better in my findings.
Ever heard of a syphon
@alltherpm if that's all that was occurring every pipe would work... thats not what I've experienced. There's got to be something else starting the draw/suction.
@griffinphilemon5083 it does work but smooth and straight is what air wants to do,
Really enjoy these videos on this saw!
Nice saw! Sounds great and runs great. Excellent Job
Looking good👍🏻 definitely a keeper!
Congrats on 60k!! Learned a ton from you, bud
Great video shame I haven't got time to watch them all I've learned loads off you 👌👌🤙🤙
my 384 has the dumbest throttle cable routing, it comes out of the case over an inch off of straight-up to the throttle lever, and i had to gumball a bunch of small pieces to extend the throttle shaft for a straighter pull. when i ported it my wife came into the shop while it was really windy, and the door slammed! shut while i was shaping the lower transfer port and i gouged a "tear drop" extension toward the upper transfers, it was radical, quite a trench, but i had to clean it-up and match it anyway, and it ran great, started easily, had tons of torque, it seemed to have no effect except it will empty the tank quicker. then i found out what that mod did. i had my 36 inch bar on to buck an elm that was just over 4 feet in diameter, and oh my god, did i discover what that "mistake" did. i actually made two mistakes that morning. i hadn't used the 36" bar since i dropped that monster, and had forgotten i had square filed it new for the drop, and i just had a round file, so i ran the file until it just bit into the teeth, and bucked. it repeatedly went through that elm in about 30 seconds, no bullshit, i timed it, 30-35 seconds, it was through that trunk "like butta". and i realized with that load on the saw, it had kind of a "low-gear" it went into that just threw a geyser of really nice chips in a dense shower. what i think happened is that lower port deformation allowed the saw to pull more fuel under full load, and i was kicking myself for not having a camera. but that elm, all 110 feet of it, is in my woodshed, dry as toast. i also noted that putting a round file into a square filed chain created teeth that were pretty much five-sided razor blades, and that was proved instantly.
i have a 98 dyna w/leather bags! love it! that saw runs and cuts awesome!! a little too heavy for this old man!!
Yeah she's heavy for sure.
😊😊 HI TINMAN U should always redone a cylinder 2 clean the cylinder up and it will help the piston rings seat alot better and help it have good 👍 😊 compression from loosing HP 😊😊 OMG 11 5 2O24
Great stuff, thank you Sir!
I'm a small scale logger property clearing guy and the profit margins are thinner then arborist
Very nice build. On the subject of trimming and running a saw with no woodruff key, how or where do you lock it down to get a running saw. Maybe a good teaching video to explain the ins and outs. My 272xp build has sheared two keys from kick back. The mag has a molded key. Would be nice to see a clean, clearly explained video on this aspect of a build. Again nice saw. TC Mahalo Tinman 🤙🤙🤙
@tdawg8605 I don't want to horn in where I wasn't asked, but in case nobody else answers... the timing key, often mislabeled a "shear key", is only there to correctly orient the flywheel. I run flywheels without keys. I've heard of the keys shearing off before; each time, the shaft or the flywheel was the culprit; the surfaces lock like a morse taper. It doesn't take much of an imperfection to disrupt the locking-together of the two tapers... I little bit of dirt, a "ding" in the flywheel or on the shaft, or about anything. I would hazard a guess, that once one spun, it will be difficult to get it to ever hold again without working the surface(s). Again, hope I didn't step on anyone's toes; further, if there's a different response, a good rule of thumb is to take their advice over mine.
@HayChaffandSawdust1 Thanks for the feedback. All info is good info I say. This 272xp I put together with parts. It never did run. I have a running 272xp that I built and the coil died on it this October. When I tried to swap out the coil from the none running saw, my running saw would not run. I had another old coil so I put it in and my running 272xp started up right away. So I took the old coil out of the running 272xp and tried it in the non-running 272xp and it fired and started but ran poorly, it back fired on a restart and sheared the key. So I was just going to run it without a key however I can't seem to get the timing correct. That's why I'm searching for timing info. If it kicks back is my timing too advanced or not enough? It's been a test of my patience for sure, this saw. Thanks again.
I love that 394 well what I’ve seen of it that is she a ripper
Following this one very closely.... I have a box in my shop full of parts to do a complete 394 build.
Hey buddy I'm glad you like the pipe
It works great Dan!!
@@DanLathrop nice job Dan on pipe looks and sounds great!!
When u say u built it for idling and trigger response, well if u listen to crazy horse any improvement on case volocity does the opposite, snappier the saw the smaller the case volume,,, i would think porting would inlarge volume?
394 my favourite but no cylinder found....
Greetings from Greece
Try harvest king its a great bar oil and its affordable.
How do you change the timing? Are you moving the crank? I thought there was a wood key…im not making connection
Hey tinman…you know who sells 305s…..your buddy Donny walker!!
I'm up for stihl 036 parts😉
How's the Tinman and family
Tôi có cậu 394 đang bị hư lòng và pít tông chỗ bạn có những thứ đấy ko đấy
Dgp can be the best bar oil on the planet but if you have to pay for it $116 canadian for a 4L jug makes it not worth it to me
I buy the cheapest Walmart oil I can here in Alberta
I know there is higher shipping costs in Canada because in the USA it is around $120,00 for four gallons including shipping.
@martyrutter3630 that's just the price of the oil but regular fuel is about 6 buck a gallon
Lordco sells bar oil for about $12 per gallon, and I have never had an issue with wear on my bar or chain.
I cut for a wk then had to switch chains for crappy wood,, didn't have to get a rag and an air compressor to clean it, dgp kept it clean, and I'm anal about my saws
61thou a month later 😅.
In the near future DGB oil for gas mixture will be available and it will be a game changer also. 👍👍
How so? There are so many great oils out there as is. How is the DGB oil going to be better?
@ Wait and see it will be available in about five months 👍
Wow 60,000 🤯 congratulations my guy I remember the setup when you were about to stop making videos with under 1000subs. Amazing channel glad to see you stuck with it. 🦾🧬🎯
Why not just get a 500i and port it that would be fun
😊😊 HI TIMAN 👋 😊 that other pipe didn't work because it didn't have the air flow it needed it should've made the saw pull just like the old school 🏫 😊 saws it should pull just like a tractor 🚜 😊 and a pipe there's no baffle in the muffler either and the sparkplug should be tan or light brown 😊😊 OMG 11 5 2O24