My 340 was at 19 initial and 38 total. I used your method. Note I’m at 30 initial and 36 total. My car never ran this good! Thank you! Give the motor what it wants. Now I need to tune my carburetor!
🤣😂🤣 i would have never expected you to do that 🤣😂 I hit the floor laughing when you face planted the snow , totally unexpected 😂🤣😜 that is about as simple as one could explain it and if they still don't get it then maybe they should not touch it any further and get a little help 👍🏽🤪
I did your method a couple days ago. I'm pretty surprised on how much better with the throttle response. This not a fast car by any means but I'm happy with it. I think mine is around 14 to 16 btdc. 1987 Plymouth Gran Fury 318. I have a Elderbrock manifold with a 600 Mopar Holley that I will be installing in near future. Thank you!!
I do almost the same way , years ago we used to do a power timing , 2 man operation , in drive against the quard rail on a dirt road and advance til you start spinning the tires and back it off a tiny bit hahaha
That’s a cold intro! 😂 Great information as usual! I usually worry about total advance and initial ends up being what it is. I also never use the vacuum advance. Maybe on a daily driver but if I was daily driving it, I’d want all the power all the time.
Face plant was my banging head against the wall when some demand a timing number from me.. .LOL. If a guy has enough stall and gear, he's in total timing when he leaves the line. But initial timing plays a big part in the snap of a daily driver with a stock converter and highway gears
AND most critical if a performance cam is installed. Your motor will probably want as much initial timing as your starter can deal with. THEN your distributor needs to be modified to limit TOTAL advance to usually approx 36° and get all the timing in at a lower rpm. SO much performance improvement available with timing. It will improve acceleration, fuel mileage, and make engine run cooler. So many people resorting to big aftermarket radiators and electric cooling fans when their cooling problem was probably due to lazy ignition timing and lack of coolant RECOVERY bottle/tank/system- whatever fits your vehicle. 318 WILL RUN- cool stuff & thanks.
I did the same on a big block chrysler 361, Initial was at 10* advanced the timing to 15* The first gear acceleration + response was night and day, At 10* the motor is very lazy. at 15* the car wants to rip your head off, Big blocks tend to like more timing so who knows maybe the timing can be advanced to 20* - + a couple degree's. Hopefully the engine won't kick back at the starter too hard at 20* time to go experiment. Great video also, simple and easy to understand.
I set it by first getting it started at base timing with carb adjusted so it idles smooth. Then crack the throttle. Hesitation or stumble slight one way or another. Then when cracking the throttle is happy. Shut it off and see how it starts. No cranking just hit key and vroom. Then it be perfect. Takes some back and forth. Oh yeah carb adjusted with a high smooth idle with a 50 rpm lean drop.
I usually bring the RPM up to 3 thousand and adjust distributor up until it starts breaking up and then back it up until it runs smooth and that it on Initial timing.
Great video 😎👍🏁. what is the correct idle fully warmed up in park?Did someone win the Holley 4 barrel ? it's colder outside then a witches fit in a brass bra 😂
Idle is car specific. Stock small block may be 750 rpms, while a note-worthy cam may idle at 1000-1100 rpms. Yes, carb was given away and received, the recipient is listed in the description of that video, plus in my community board
Just curious, have you ever welded your advance slots, or seen/used one of the advance limiting plates from ‘4 Seconds Flat’? If you set your initial like you did on a stock distributor, will full advance be TOO much? Your Dusters really rip for what they are so I’m hoping you’ll do a video on full advance sometime soon. Thanks.
I bought a 1985 dodge Diplomat 318 motor for my 73 Duster .I notice the distributor didn't have vacuum advance. I wonder if I could change the reluctor in the distributor?
I personally just get an electronic distributor with a vacuum advance. A lot of those distributors without the vacuum advance had double pickups and were meant to work with a specific ECU or Lean Burn.
Vacuum advance, as it's name, works off of vacuum. It works off of port vacuum. It's suppose to net you about 1 mpg under certain driving conditions. Under wide open throttle it does nothing. At idle it does nothing. When I put a lot of initial timing into it, and especially if the advance curve has been quickened, I don't like the advance playing "vacuum timing" games with my tune. That's just me....
what do you do on the very first fire up. Working with a rebuilt 340 and on my very first start a huge back fire from the headers and carb; Thought I just poured to much gas down the carb. Then the next day I used starting fluid and rotated up the advance and no more back firing. Am I on the right track? I can't rotate (counter clockwise) the dist anymore because the vacumn hits the oil sending unit
Did it start the next day when you used starting fluid? If not, you have to get your timing corrected. Very important if it's a flat tappet cam. Have to bring the piston up to Top Dead Center on the power stroke. that would be after the intake valve closes. Point the rotor to #1 and she should kick right off! Always use a known - good carb for break in with a flat tappet cam
Nope, I did a video on the installation of those heads. It was pretty straight forward and I used all factory rockers/pushrods for the comparison I was doing.
So in your duster no vacuum advance? I run it in my dart sport but not sure if I can do without it? My 360 is hopped up with a 292/508 mopar purple cam advanced 4°@ the crank. I believe now have 15° initial but didn't do setting as you did but now want to give it a shot. However, car seems to start and run fairly well but there always can be room for more tuning and tweaking I guess.
7 of my 8 classic cars do not have the vacuum advance hooked up. Personal choice. My motto is never quit tuning. Don't let "goodness" stand in the way of "greatness".
Hi, I have a 318 with a four barrel carburetor high performance cam dodge charger 1973. Trying to resolve this issue for weeks. Car runs great when it's cold, no vibration in the engine whatsoever. After approximately 20 to 30 miles of driving The car is running so hot that it stalls. I let it cool down and bring it back into the garage. Can my timing be off? I modified so many items in this engine, That I Cantel what is the best way to get the right timing. Can you help me?
Too little timing can cause an engine to heat up. Too much timing can cause detonation/pinging. I would say a safe zone to start at would be 14* initial and 33* total if you've went larger on the cam vs stock. If stock cam, then I'd start at 10* initial and 28* total. Just a starting place. If it wants to continue to heat up, you have to challenge the thermostat, radiator, fan, and the cooling system.
@@318willrun Thank you for your reply, I will give it a shot. I have a new thermostat on order. But once again thank you, will let you know my results.
Hi Willy, I replaced my thermostat from 195 to 180, new fluids. The car still running a little hot. I replace the voltage regulator, electronic control ignition Box, I have on order a new heat sensor for the manifold. I ordered a new distributor wrench and I never had a timing light so I picked one up. I will try your method of timing sometime today or tomorrow. I'm retired but my grandkids keep me busy more than ever. My 1973 Dodge charger 318, it's been my car since From brand new, picked it up after Vietnam, I'll send you a photo. My goal is to make the wheel spin like Your beautiful duster. Lol. But this charger never burn rubber. It's gotta be the rear end and the transmission, there stock, but it's a small transmission. Will let you know how my timing project turns out.
My timing was set at top dead center. my rpm gauge reads 750 at park , 550 in drive. Will bring it up to 10° but, I'm not sure what the RPM should be. Will let you know.
I haven’t seen this question show up in comments, so I’ll ask it. How many degrees was it for that top dead center face plant? I’m guessing about 26 Fahrenheit.
Know your name from over on the 1st gen ram forum, just stumbled across your channel. been trouble shooting my 86 D150 318 / 2bbl Holley. Got the carb running decent even though I suspect it way too rich, and followed your timing guide here in the video, truck loved it. BUT! When advancing timing till idle is a little shaky then back off a few degrees, I hit the limit of movement while still getting a clean rpm increase. Would it be safe to suspect the distributor was put in out of time years ago when my grandfather mechanic fiddled with it? Also, timing was set at 0 at idle. And ran like garbage. (To be expected I’d think) with ESA vac line capped currently, and sitting at 16 BTDC and the trucks much more drivable then it’s been in my owning it. But still worried about detonation if mechanical advance inside distributor goes to far. Thoughts?
Thanks for watching, and I'm glad you are making progress. I'm assuming your vacuum advance canister is hitting the intake? You can always rotate the plug wires one spot clockwise in the cap, then back your timing out, this will give you the room. Sometimes, if you can't control the total timing at the moment, you have to comprise a little with initial to keep from detonation. If the truck is fairly quiet, and you pull a hill at 50 mph and hold your speed you'll hear it if you have clatter
@@318willrun Thanks for the quick response! I don’t have a vacuum advance, it’s controlled by the ESA computer in the fender. But since the FSM mentions that if the ESA fails to receive vacuum signal, it will not alter the timing, Which would imply that I’d be relying solely on my initial and whatever the curve in the distributor is. I’ll try the one wire rotation and see how it treats it. If I end up having more to back and forth with on it or run into another oddity I was going to just move it to the forum. It’s just kinda slow going on there for info sense we’re all on at different times. Thanks again, it was a huge relief to actually get some significant results from trying to dial this truck in.
Struggling with this myself. 5.9 magnum with 600 holley. No matter where i set the timing the engine lopes and shakes like it has a big cam. Any ideas?
@@318willrun actually gets worse under any throttle. I've checked the plug wires, no vacuum leaks. The plugs are completely black within minutes. I have the carb off now for a good cleaning and new kit. It's worth mentioning it's running an hei conversion with new distributor, accel ignition module and speedmaster coil.
@@HardHeadGarage If you have somebody that would borrow you a "known good" carb that would really make it easy. It's either carburation or something in the ignition system from what you've described.
Lots of variables like he said, but this video is a great way to get pretty close. If you’re having issues it may be time for a timing chain or dizzy in some cases. I had a 318 that I had the hood up multiple times and couldn’t get it adjusted and stay. But as long as the carburetor doesn’t need rebuilt or timing chain replaced, his step by step is a good place to start. You’re spark plugs can tell you a lot too.
Hi, Hopefully you see this comment in time since it's an old video. I have a 84 d100 with a 318. It's stock points distributor needs to be recurved and restored. Besides getting these distributors repaired, are there any companies recommend from your experience that make aftermarket distributors that are of solid quality and performance ?
Just to be sure we are talking the same, you have a points distributor installed in a '84 318. So it's been converted to points (factory would have been electronic). If so, you have options. One would be to order a new distributor for a '71 318 Duster, then look at the brand reviews. Another would be to rebuild your distributor. There is a guy on Forabodiesonly that calls himself Halifax that works on distributors. Or, buy another original distributor that's known to work good, as many people go to electronic systems and sell their good working units
@@318willrun I believe it's points to my understanding. My mechanical knowledge is limited.... I'd have to send you a picture so you see what I'm working with. Are you on social media?
@@josepena5164 If it's original to the truck, it will be electronic ignition. Does it have two wires coming from the distributor and a plug at the end? If so, it's electronic. All I have is my email here on my utube channel
technically, the vacuum advance shouldn't pull at idle. However, it is a possibility that vacuum is being applied and that could make your marks disappear
Okay sounds good! Thank you. Also did you have your initial timing at say 10 btdc? Just wondering cause my 360 was running bad at 3 degrees btdc. That’s what I set it at when I found tdc on compression stroke. Once I found that I move the mark on the harmonic balancer to 3 degrees before on the timing cover
every car should get what it wants. Also, the amount of mechanical advancement in the distributor and the strength of the springs will also play a part.
vacuum advance should not be pulling at idle on port vacuum. It should only activate under part throttle. At idle and wide open throttle the vacuum advance should not be activated if using port vacuum from the carb. If you advance initial, and set total, you can tune the vacuum advance with a allen wrench (usually). I actually do not remember where her RC is timed. I have that with a little timing pulled out of it so I can pull up to any pump in any state and never have detonation/pinging.
I have a built 318 aluminum heads 268 xe duration comp cam and when it was built the cam wasn’t degree’d in. I noticed the motor loves a crazy amount of initial, like 40 degrees initial. Could the reason be the cam is slightly retarded in relation to the crank?
I would first start with questioning the 40* initial. That is a ton of initial. Seems the engine would want to break the nose of the starter kicking back when trying to start it, especially when the engine is hot. Then I'd have to ask, what is it running for total timing?? I think I would start by verifying TDC and the balancer and even the timing light.
@@318willrunStarter kick back is little to none. No pinging under load or at idle either. If the cam was installed slightly retarded in relation to the crank wouldnt that cause me to need more initial? I will try what u said by verifying. Wouldn’t I also need to make sure the valves are opening when they are supposed to according to the cam card?
So where did your total end up after adjusting initial for best RPM ? Tread with caution people, and learn how to completely time a car, not just initial. Driving your car with to much advance can cause serious engine damage. Good Luck !
@@daveallen2455 yes total timing. You want as much initial as you can get and limit the mechanical to where it makes the most power and make the timing curve come in as fast as you can without going too far. Then the car will snap your neck back. Only aftermarket distributors will ever get you to where you need to be with custom stuff like aftermarket cams more compression bigger heads etc.
My question is Now mine is 2001/ 318 With fuel injection Single computer Throttle body I know that the computer controls the internal timing But the fireing timing an the fuel injection are two different pony’s what degree do you set on On the fuel injection My timing light all over the place I. Know that the fuel injection has to spray on valve at a Pacific degree an the computer runs the timing to the plugs I’m well on timing old school Engine I understand them But I’m n new territory with fuel injection I can’t find any one that willing to explain how the basic injection works I can read wires schematic, right? Lol But this makes no sense on injectors Or I just don’t have the right schematics No one in northern central Alabama Know nothing about a dodge, not even the tech at the dealership, can’t even explain, or just won’t Chevy tech are dime a dozen One even cussed me out Just for asking a question on a Dodge, stating he’d never touch a dodge again Guess he had a bad experience an never figured it out It can’t be that complicated
Timing on the magnums is completely different than old school cars. I'm not a pro on these either, however, I'll try. The crank sensor is the trigger. The computer knows where and when off of that sensor. I took my crank sensor off and slotted the holes so I could advance the timing by tricking the computer that the crank was farther in the revolution than it really was. The results? A little more part throttle snap, but I know have to burn at least 89 octane or it will ping going up hills. As far as twisting the distributor, I have had very little luck with the magnums doing that.
Your method is wrong I had the same problem with the timing what you did now is maximum vaccum it is bad for your timing chain and the piston skirt try to find the year of your engine and get the info from the internet you mustn't go more than 32 degree total for a small engine You need to do it the smooth it way to heard the engine runing no noise at all that is the initial timing If you want your engine to live long that is the best way total timing 32 not more You can play with the vaccum advance to increase or decrease the timing good luck
Thats what an old timer taught me as a kid!! Highest smooth RPM is your initial...
My 340 was at 19 initial and 38 total. I used your method. Note I’m at 30 initial and 36 total. My car never ran this good! Thank you! Give the motor what it wants. Now I need to tune my carburetor!
Is this with the stock distributor and springs?
@@patgraeme775 summit distributor and weak springs.
🤣😂🤣 i would have never expected you to do that 🤣😂 I hit the floor laughing when you face planted the snow , totally unexpected 😂🤣😜 that is about as simple as one could explain it and if they still don't get it then maybe they should not touch it any further and get a little help 👍🏽🤪
That sounds very reasonable! A co-worker of mine told a similiar way. 👍
Small block mopars really love plenty of initial timing, I've had to limit my mechanical advance slots up in all of my distributors
Spot on! Yes, they like initial and then the slots have to be limited to land where a fella wants his total to be.
Great video! Thanks for the tips, they will help alot of folks!
Bringing the knowledge AND the humor, cheers!
I forgot to mention ABSOLUTELY like the face plant in the snow🤣😂LOL.
I did your method a couple days ago. I'm pretty surprised on how much better with the throttle response. This not a fast car by any means but I'm happy with it. I think mine is around 14 to 16 btdc. 1987 Plymouth Gran Fury 318. I have a Elderbrock manifold with a 600 Mopar Holley that I will be installing in near future. Thank you!!
Glad it worked for you.
Thanks.
Thanks for making this video. It is informative and helpful.
I do almost the same way , years ago we used to do a power timing , 2 man operation , in drive against the quard rail on a dirt road and advance til you start spinning the tires and back it off a tiny bit hahaha
Wow I was saying to myself, I hope he didn't do that with his glasses on, had to go back and look...lol Nice video 318WR.
awesome vid.. watched this.. went to my van.. did what you ssaid.. PERFECT.. no more rattle and ping.. and easy..
YOU ROCK
That’s a cold intro! 😂 Great information as usual! I usually worry about total advance and initial ends up being what it is. I also never use the vacuum advance. Maybe on a daily driver but if I was daily driving it, I’d want all the power all the time.
Face plant was my banging head against the wall when some demand a timing number from me.. .LOL. If a guy has enough stall and gear, he's in total timing when he leaves the line. But initial timing plays a big part in the snap of a daily driver with a stock converter and highway gears
AND most critical if a performance cam is installed. Your motor will probably want as much initial timing as your starter can deal with. THEN your distributor needs to be modified to limit TOTAL advance to usually approx 36° and get all the timing in at a lower rpm. SO much performance improvement available with timing. It will improve acceleration, fuel mileage, and make engine run cooler. So many people resorting to big aftermarket radiators and electric cooling fans when their cooling problem was probably due to lazy ignition timing and lack of coolant RECOVERY bottle/tank/system- whatever fits your vehicle. 318 WILL RUN- cool stuff & thanks.
Thanks for the video! Really helped me today with timing my carbed 360 magnum.
Glad it helped
I did the same on a big block chrysler 361, Initial was at 10* advanced the timing to 15* The first gear acceleration + response was night and day, At 10* the motor is very lazy. at 15* the car wants to rip your head off, Big blocks tend to like more timing so who knows maybe the timing can be advanced to 20* - + a couple degree's. Hopefully the engine won't kick back at the starter too hard at 20* time to go experiment. Great video also, simple and easy to understand.
Yep. Thats how I do it works every time. It's called knowing your vehicle feel and sound.
That's pretty cool. Never seen that before. I'm going to have to give it a try.
Thanks for watching !
Neat, man. I like your method.
I set it by first getting it started at base timing with carb adjusted so it idles smooth. Then crack the throttle. Hesitation or stumble slight one way or another. Then when cracking the throttle is happy. Shut it off and see how it starts. No cranking just hit key and vroom. Then it be perfect. Takes some back and forth. Oh yeah carb adjusted with a high smooth idle with a 50 rpm lean drop.
Yep never used vacuum advance either.
I usually bring the RPM up to 3 thousand and adjust distributor up until it starts breaking up and then back it up until it runs smooth and that it on Initial timing.
Great video 😎👍🏁. what is the correct idle fully warmed up in park?Did someone win the Holley 4 barrel ? it's colder outside then a witches fit in a brass bra 😂
Idle is car specific. Stock small block may be 750 rpms, while a note-worthy cam may idle at 1000-1100 rpms. Yes, carb was given away and received, the recipient is listed in the description of that video, plus in my community board
I’m a believer in manifold vacume.. my big block likes 21’ initial, 14’. Curve, 36 all in at 2800rpm.
Just curious, have you ever welded your advance slots, or seen/used one of the advance limiting plates from ‘4 Seconds Flat’? If you set your initial like you did on a stock distributor, will full advance be TOO much? Your Dusters really rip for what they are so I’m hoping you’ll do a video on full advance sometime soon. Thanks.
I have the 4 seconds flat plate in my '77 Van, and the slots on Drag Truck are welded up (I bought the dizzy welded)
I bought a 1985 dodge Diplomat 318 motor for my 73 Duster .I notice the distributor didn't have vacuum advance. I wonder if I could change the reluctor in the distributor?
I personally just get an electronic distributor with a vacuum advance. A lot of those distributors without the vacuum advance had double pickups and were meant to work with a specific ECU or Lean Burn.
Thanks.
Hey, thanks for the video. Can anyone explain why one would not run the vacuum advance and it's benefits?
Vacuum advance, as it's name, works off of vacuum. It works off of port vacuum. It's suppose to net you about 1 mpg under certain driving conditions. Under wide open throttle it does nothing. At idle it does nothing. When I put a lot of initial timing into it, and especially if the advance curve has been quickened, I don't like the advance playing "vacuum timing" games with my tune. That's just me....
@@318willrun finishing up my rebuild on my 273 and just down to researching the little things. Thanks!
what do you do on the very first fire up. Working with a rebuilt 340 and on my very first start a huge back fire from the headers and carb; Thought I just poured to much gas down the carb. Then the next day I used starting fluid and rotated up the advance and no more back firing. Am I on the right track? I can't rotate (counter clockwise) the dist anymore because the vacumn hits the oil sending unit
Did it start the next day when you used starting fluid? If not, you have to get your timing corrected. Very important if it's a flat tappet cam. Have to bring the piston up to Top Dead Center on the power stroke. that would be after the intake valve closes. Point the rotor to #1 and she should kick right off! Always use a known - good carb for break in with a flat tappet cam
Did you have any fitment issues with the speedmaster heads?
Nope, I did a video on the installation of those heads. It was pretty straight forward and I used all factory rockers/pushrods for the comparison I was doing.
So in your duster no vacuum advance? I run it in my dart sport but not sure if I can do without it? My 360 is hopped up with a 292/508 mopar purple cam advanced 4°@ the crank. I believe now have 15° initial but didn't do setting as you did but now want to give it a shot. However, car seems to start and run fairly well but there always can be room for more tuning and tweaking I guess.
7 of my 8 classic cars do not have the vacuum advance hooked up. Personal choice. My motto is never quit tuning. Don't let "goodness" stand in the way of "greatness".
@@318willrun agree.
So if you hook up a vacume gauge do you think the needle would be jumping back and fourth?
doubt anything other than normal
Hi, I have a 318 with a four barrel carburetor high performance cam dodge charger 1973. Trying to resolve this issue for weeks. Car runs great when it's cold, no vibration in the engine whatsoever. After approximately 20 to 30 miles of driving The car is running so hot that it stalls. I let it cool down and bring it back into the garage. Can my timing be off? I modified so many items in this engine, That I Cantel what is the best way to get the right timing. Can you help me?
Too little timing can cause an engine to heat up. Too much timing can cause detonation/pinging. I would say a safe zone to start at would be 14* initial and 33* total if you've went larger on the cam vs stock. If stock cam, then I'd start at 10* initial and 28* total. Just a starting place. If it wants to continue to heat up, you have to challenge the thermostat, radiator, fan, and the cooling system.
@@318willrun Thank you for your reply, I will give it a shot. I have a new thermostat on order. But once again thank you, will let you know my results.
Hi Willy, I replaced my thermostat from 195 to 180, new fluids. The car still running a little hot. I replace the voltage regulator, electronic control ignition Box, I have on order a new heat sensor for the manifold. I ordered a new distributor wrench and I never had a timing light so I picked one up. I will try your method of timing sometime today or tomorrow. I'm retired but my grandkids keep me busy more than ever. My 1973 Dodge charger 318, it's been my car since From brand new, picked it up after Vietnam, I'll send you a photo. My goal is to make the wheel spin like Your beautiful duster. Lol. But this charger never burn rubber. It's gotta be the rear end and the transmission, there stock, but it's a small transmission.
Will let you know how my timing project turns out.
My timing was set at top dead center. my rpm gauge reads 750 at park , 550 in drive. Will bring it up to 10° but, I'm not sure what the RPM should be. Will let you know.
@@bobmederos270 Sounds fun !
I haven’t seen this question show up in comments, so I’ll ask it. How many degrees was it for that top dead center face plant? I’m guessing about 26 Fahrenheit.
🤣🤣 Love it !!!!
I feel the same way.
I wasn’t there, I don’t know.
My recommendation?
Run it.
Know your name from over on the 1st gen ram forum, just stumbled across your channel. been trouble shooting my 86 D150 318 / 2bbl Holley. Got the carb running decent even though I suspect it way too rich, and followed your timing guide here in the video, truck loved it. BUT! When advancing timing till idle is a little shaky then back off a few degrees, I hit the limit of movement while still getting a clean rpm increase. Would it be safe to suspect the distributor was put in out of time years ago when my grandfather mechanic fiddled with it? Also, timing was set at 0 at idle. And ran like garbage. (To be expected I’d think)
with ESA vac line capped currently, and sitting at 16 BTDC and the trucks much more drivable then it’s been in my owning it. But still worried about detonation if mechanical advance inside distributor goes to far.
Thoughts?
Thanks for watching, and I'm glad you are making progress. I'm assuming your vacuum advance canister is hitting the intake? You can always rotate the plug wires one spot clockwise in the cap, then back your timing out, this will give you the room. Sometimes, if you can't control the total timing at the moment, you have to comprise a little with initial to keep from detonation. If the truck is fairly quiet, and you pull a hill at 50 mph and hold your speed you'll hear it if you have clatter
@@318willrun Thanks for the quick response! I don’t have a vacuum advance, it’s controlled by the ESA computer in the fender. But since the FSM mentions that if the ESA fails to receive vacuum signal, it will not alter the timing, Which would imply that I’d be relying solely on my initial and whatever the curve in the distributor is. I’ll try the one wire rotation and see how it treats it. If I end up having more to back and forth with on it or run into another oddity I was going to just move it to the forum. It’s just kinda slow going on there for info sense we’re all on at different times.
Thanks again, it was a huge relief to actually get some significant results from trying to dial this truck in.
@@yuuyiatakahashi1943 I get ya. I don't have a lot of experience with that system. I hope moving the plug wires helps you.
@@318willrun appreciate it, I’ll chime in to let you know how it goes.
Struggling with this myself. 5.9 magnum with 600 holley. No matter where i set the timing the engine lopes and shakes like it has a big cam. Any ideas?
may not be timing related. Does it smooth out when it revs up?? Plug wire crossed? Carb overloading?? Vacuum leak ???
@@318willrun actually gets worse under any throttle. I've checked the plug wires, no vacuum leaks. The plugs are completely black within minutes. I have the carb off now for a good cleaning and new kit. It's worth mentioning it's running an hei conversion with new distributor, accel ignition module and speedmaster coil.
@@HardHeadGarage If you have somebody that would borrow you a "known good" carb that would really make it easy. It's either carburation or something in the ignition system from what you've described.
You should tell people when you move the harmonic balancer to TDC that the rotor should be pointed at spark plug number one!
35 seconds in...🤣🤣
Thanks for the LOL...
Hello thank you for your video I have a question , Do you know How many degrees should be on time a Dodge 360 engine?
It is engine specific. Stock? Cam?? So many variables.
Lots of variables like he said, but this video is a great way to get pretty close. If you’re having issues it may be time for a timing chain or dizzy in some cases. I had a 318 that I had the hood up multiple times and couldn’t get it adjusted and stay. But as long as the carburetor doesn’t need rebuilt or timing chain replaced, his step by step is a good place to start. You’re spark plugs can tell you a lot too.
33° with carb headers and intake does great
do i have to unplug the vacumke advance when setting initial timing
yes, you should
@@318willrun thank you
What do you use the timing light for? It seems you do it mostly by feel
Once you find where initial timing is set, then you do total timing, then you know how much to limit your mechanical advance in distributor
Hi,
Hopefully you see this comment in time since it's an old video. I have a 84 d100 with a 318. It's stock points distributor needs to be recurved and restored. Besides getting these distributors repaired, are there any companies recommend from your experience that make aftermarket distributors that are of solid quality and performance ?
Just to be sure we are talking the same, you have a points distributor installed in a '84 318. So it's been converted to points (factory would have been electronic). If so, you have options. One would be to order a new distributor for a '71 318 Duster, then look at the brand reviews. Another would be to rebuild your distributor. There is a guy on Forabodiesonly that calls himself Halifax that works on distributors. Or, buy another original distributor that's known to work good, as many people go to electronic systems and sell their good working units
@@318willrun I believe it's points to my understanding. My mechanical knowledge is limited.... I'd have to send you a picture so you see what I'm working with. Are you on social media?
@@josepena5164 If it's original to the truck, it will be electronic ignition. Does it have two wires coming from the distributor and a plug at the end? If so, it's electronic. All I have is my email here on my utube channel
Does the motor have to be hot when you do this? Or just kinda warmed up?
You do not want the choke fast idle to be on because that can advance your timing.
Hey atleast you got snow!..... Can't wait till you talk about total timing all in......... good job man! How's the late 70s b body doing?
Unfortunately, we haven't touched the Forgotten B body since ya'll saw me shut the hood....
I like this its actually pretty simple I dont like diet drinks though.
Thanks !
Do I need a cam button for a 360la small block hydronic roller conversion
I've not seen a cam button used on a small block. That's pretty much a big block thing
Why is the battery ground cable going to a big block of aluminum?
that's fine.
Anyway you can help me wire my hei distributor with an edelbrock1406??
I did a video of HEI on our grey van. th-cam.com/video/JokHrHZRFkg/w-d-xo.html
What if I go to set initial and no marks come up on the gun? Is it cause I left my vaccuum advance hooked up?
technically, the vacuum advance shouldn't pull at idle. However, it is a possibility that vacuum is being applied and that could make your marks disappear
Okay sounds good! Thank you. Also did you have your initial timing at say 10 btdc? Just wondering cause my 360 was running bad at 3 degrees btdc. That’s what I set it at when I found tdc on compression stroke. Once I found that I move the mark on the harmonic balancer to 3 degrees before on the timing cover
@@danielpeterson446 I think my initial on this particular engine is about 14*. But some of my small blocks are at 20*
318 magnum videos? Speedmaster makes a nice dual-plane 4 barrel carb for the 360 and 318 that fit the LA and magnum years.
I have 3 of those intakes, one is on Drag Truck.
@@318willrun Awesome!
Would this work with a slant 6?
It should !
Anything with a distributor
Great Video, thank u sir
i have my initial on my 318 at 6 degrees if i go to 8 begrees in pings under acceleration ....im amazed that you can have it at 14
every car should get what it wants. Also, the amount of mechanical advancement in the distributor and the strength of the springs will also play a part.
how much timing on your wifes vehicle ...my 318 has advanced vacume timing and at idle it is a 5 degrees after tdc.im confused how u did it at 20btdc
vacuum advance should not be pulling at idle on port vacuum. It should only activate under part throttle. At idle and wide open throttle the vacuum advance should not be activated if using port vacuum from the carb. If you advance initial, and set total, you can tune the vacuum advance with a allen wrench (usually). I actually do not remember where her RC is timed. I have that with a little timing pulled out of it so I can pull up to any pump in any state and never have detonation/pinging.
Big part of the "smog era" no initial timing?
that and the change of gas.
I have a built 318 aluminum heads 268 xe duration comp cam and when it was built the cam wasn’t degree’d in. I noticed the motor loves a crazy amount of initial, like 40 degrees initial. Could the reason be the cam is slightly retarded in relation to the crank?
I would first start with questioning the 40* initial. That is a ton of initial. Seems the engine would want to break the nose of the starter kicking back when trying to start it, especially when the engine is hot. Then I'd have to ask, what is it running for total timing?? I think I would start by verifying TDC and the balancer and even the timing light.
@@318willrunStarter kick back is little to none. No pinging under load or at idle either. If the cam was installed slightly retarded in relation to the crank wouldnt that cause me to need more initial? I will try what u said by verifying. Wouldn’t I also need to make sure the valves are opening when they are supposed to according to the cam card?
@@318willrun I run 93 octane. Would that allow for the extra timing u think? Compression is right at 10:1 or just hair shy
@@bsrob1 You may need the highest octane, yes.
Sounded like your chain is off a tooth
That's A LOT of initial. That's what race cars run but it's locked out with that much advance
Do u use ported
Yes, I use ported vacuum for the advance (if I run a vacuum advance).
So where did your total end up after adjusting initial for best RPM ?
Tread with caution people, and learn how to completely time a car, not just initial.
Driving your car with to much advance can cause serious engine damage.
Good Luck !
We did a video on "Total timing" around the same time.
He said this was just about initial. Of course there's total timing and a curve. He said that.
@@KingJT80 Total vacuum ? You mean total timing right ? Lol
@@daveallen2455 yes total timing.
You want as much initial as you can get and limit the mechanical to where it makes the most power and make the timing curve come in as fast as you can without going too far.
Then the car will snap your neck back.
Only aftermarket distributors will ever get you to where you need to be with custom stuff like aftermarket cams more compression bigger heads etc.
@@KingJT80 Lol....Thanks for the thesis !!!!!!!!
My question is
Now mine is 2001/ 318
With fuel injection
Single computer
Throttle body
I know that the computer controls the internal timing
But the fireing timing an the fuel injection are two different pony’s what degree do you set on
On the fuel injection
My timing light all over the place
I. Know that the fuel injection has to spray on valve at a Pacific degree an the computer runs the timing to the plugs
I’m well on timing old school
Engine
I understand them
But I’m n new territory with fuel injection
I can’t find any one that willing to explain how the basic injection works
I can read wires schematic, right?
Lol
But this makes no sense on injectors
Or I just don’t have the right schematics
No one in northern central Alabama
Know nothing about a dodge, not even the tech at the dealership, can’t even explain, or just won’t
Chevy tech are dime a dozen
One even cussed me out
Just for asking a question on a Dodge, stating he’d never touch a dodge again
Guess he had a bad experience an never figured it out
It can’t be that complicated
Timing on the magnums is completely different than old school cars. I'm not a pro on these either, however, I'll try. The crank sensor is the trigger. The computer knows where and when off of that sensor. I took my crank sensor off and slotted the holes so I could advance the timing by tricking the computer that the crank was farther in the revolution than it really was. The results? A little more part throttle snap, but I know have to burn at least 89 octane or it will ping going up hills. As far as twisting the distributor, I have had very little luck with the magnums doing that.
Your method is wrong I had the same problem with the timing what you did now is maximum vaccum it is bad for your timing chain and the piston skirt try to find the year of your engine and get the info from the internet you mustn't go more than 32 degree total for a small engine
You need to do it the smooth it way to heard the engine runing no noise at all that is the initial timing
If you want your engine to live long that is the best way total timing 32 not more
You can play with the vaccum advance to increase or decrease the timing good luck