Anatomy of the Trousers
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 มี.ค. 2021
- Learn more about Bespoke Trouser Making and styles.
On this preview lesson of the Online FOUNDATION module.
Prof. Ramroop displays various styles of trousers as he talks us through the Anatomy of the trousers, giving you an insight on design features in preparation for the designing, cutting and making of the trousers.
If you would like to start your training to become a Master Tailor visit savilerowacademy.co.uk and check out our different course options.
Let's connect on Instagram
/ mauricesedwell
andrewramro... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
This man says "style" with more style than style itself
STYAAHHLLE
Damn now that's some style
You're not an authority on Style.
“I take great pride in handwork.” It shows. Thank you for keeping the craftsman alive.
Funny you say that- I was thinking he has more in common with TheCrafsman SteadyCraftin than most people would realize.
This seems like the kind of video we’re all going to get recommended 4 years from now at 3 in the morning.
The precursors to this video definitely were!
@Smithy: Three years and 8 months ahead of you 😄
It has become a life goal to get my own bespoke maurice sedwell suit thanks to these videos.
Same here sir
@@iammauricelive starting price £4K
I think he knows he’s ASMR famous now.
Yup!
Yes!
Giving the people what they want 👍🏼
Hope he does 😊
Why do they edit sound then?
I’ll try to explain what I (and others) like about videos like this.
I love watching a master craftsman talk about their work. You can just tell how much they love it. There’s also an ASMR quality to it. ASMR is a phenomena where some claim to get a tingling sensation, while most others feel deep relaxation, from watching videos such as Bob Ross painting. The soft spoken voice, the intentional movements, the sounds of the fabrics and materials. There’s a large ASMR community and a big market for these types of videos. Your videos fall under the “unintentional ASMR” format. It’s the format I prefer.
However, some people go way too far with the ASMR angle and it ruins the videos. They try to whisper and make weird sounds to elicit “tingles” but it’s just annoying.
Whoever decided to start uploading these videos should be commended. Building a great TH-cam channel will help raise awareness and interest of bespoke tailoring. I’ve heard of Savile Row before but never knew the name any of the stores. Thanks to these videos, I now know Maurice Sedwell.
I see you have already invested in a 4K camera and I would recommend getting a good microphone and learning how to get the best sound for your needs. But please keep in mind to not go to far.
We would all LOVE watching a video of you drawing with your chalk and cutting the materials with those amazing old shears!
Thank you very much, we value and appreciate the time you have taken with such a comprehensive response.
Yes to everything!!!!
i prefer unintentional ASMR because it's genuine. All intentional ASMR are all overdone because they know what your there for and it annoys me to be aware that someone's purposely trying to soothe me with their speech. I prefer when they're ignorant to it
@@thefeetstation8360
The very definition of ‘manufactured’. I agree completely.
Andrews voice is a huge ASMR trigger. Calm, authoritative but not authoritarian.
If only these guys were more active on TH-cam...They have no idea how big this channel could get
Does he realize what addicts we ASMR folk are!? We need our fix regularly. He has such a great and inspiring story.
Only an artist can point out so much detail in their work. Amazing.
I could listen to this gentleman all day long.
I feel privileged to have the opportunity to learn from you, Mr. Ramroop. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and style with the rest of us.
This gentleman does everything with style.
These Trousers are AMAZING, and each pair deserves it's own personal closet!
I could listen to this guy talk about all the ins and outs of suits for an hour. Wish there was a video of it.
Guy has more style in his pinky finger than I’ll ever have in my whole life.
That makes two of us. I’m just glad there are people like him to educate us 😂
Idk man that beard is pretty legendary
Terry your beard is godlike
Mr. Ramroop is the consummate professional a true Master Tailor and wonderful teacher I had the pleasure to meet him at an occasion a true gentleman and artist if You r fortunate to have a suit made by him it is more than that its a work of ART....
This man is a role model. Fantastic.
Twelve years or so ago I saw a BBC special about the tailors of Saville row and how the hardships of of the modern era were threatening their existence. It is so very good to see that Mr Sedwell is still in there making a name for himself and his craft.
May you stitch always!!🤗
The tailors of Saville row then invented the apple-bottom jeans to stay current with consumers. The rest is history my good man.
I don't know anything about the tailoring profession. I find these videos so fascinating, it encourages me to learn more.
i am stiching trousers from 20 years. but iam not imagine that trousers have front lining. thiss is very usefull to me . thanku one of the best my tailouring guru.
That last pair of trousers in particular was beautiful.
Let's cook the algorithm for this man. I'd love more of these.
Love the brown trousers with the contrast stitching...double loops and stepdown heels. Perfecto !
Mr. Ramroop you make the best looking suits that I have ever seen. It may take me a long time to save up for one of your suits but I will own one someday. I love your videos!! I always learn something new. Thank you!!
🤮
It’s midnight. I can’t sleep. I know what. The Anatomy of trousers will help. 2 hours later I’m now a style guru and ready to begin a career in tailoring
This waa super relaxing to watch. and also; Holy shit, dress pants are complicated.
Dress trousers ,my good sir
@@monkeydust100 trousers is more of an english thing
@@drew____0451 Yes, its correct.
americans say pants
This channel is quickly becoming one of my most wachted! Will need to visit next time I'm in London.
Trousers so nice, I had to watch it twice.
I wait for days such as today. I want a suit made by Andrew
Love the step down heel it will make hemming so much easier.
@@ms16648 I only have my own theories sometimes when I had pants the client likes it longer to the back so it covers the heel somewhat and shorter to the front so it lays flush without looking sloppy. So I usually hem them at an angle which is a pain to get perfectly, to me atleast.
Those trousers are so well made.
Mr.Androop, my family admires your work very much
The brown trousers at the end are my favorite. Beautiful details.
Oh...clicked on the notification by mistake
But this is great! Thanks for the upload
This is a TROUSER!! Suits you sir! :)
Please show full video. He stated he would go into it more later... but video ended.
Can’t wait to take the master class
Just fascinating to see and hear you demonstrate your craft. Many thanks...!
Please make more videos, I love seeing a master craftsman at work, I love haute horology for exactly this reason. So much to learn.
@K R I've watched David Bull for years! Great guy and a great channel. Huge fan of his.
Thank you again, always appreciate the videos 👌🏽
I never thought I'd learn anything about tailoring but I like listening to him speak so much if I ever get rich I'm getting a shit from this man.
*I HAVE SPENT LOCKDOWN* teaching myself to pattern draft and make fully bespoke trousers...
I am astonished to say that my work is NOT that far behind this quality now. Which goes to show you that it is just time and patience and working slowly and attention to detail. 1 year ago all I had made was a paperboy cap. If I can do it - anyone can. I learned from the 1894 JP Thornton book on pattern drafting and TH-cam videos.
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Wonderful videos! Please do lots more like this, they’re interesting and relaxing to watch your craftsmanship!
The 3-button waist band for people who adjust their weight over time is not a feature one would expect to see , but it goes back to what he said about fashion vs style in another video- some shops would want you to buy a new suit, he's happy to sell you something that can last and conform to your needs over the long term.
Thanks a lot Andrew for that craftsmanship ✂️🧵🖍📌📐❗
Sir, you have such passion for designing, making and tell about a suit that i know for sure, that if God would need a suit, He would buy it from you!
I really want to to take your course but I really need to safe Enough🤞🏽
My brother i hope all is well looking forward to more videos your a true inspiration
This is what you call Couture finery at its best he is the most amazing tailor and designer
Dedication to his craft....it shows
11:55
That button. An excellent choice.
The man Swagwell done it again, professionalism at its best 👌
The details... every element of a Maurice Sedwell Design is well-thought through, then planned for the customer's comfort, including many features that result in design excellence. Thank you sir for sharing your gifts with your students, and your customers from around the world.
Oh my gosh the trousers with the blue inner lining...I think it's navy....love at first sight. Wow
Getting a suit made by this artist is on my bucket list!
I WISH I COULD AFFORD ONE OF YOUR SUITES. I LOVE YOUR WORK.
Amazing.
Your work is exceptional sir, can you please do a tutorial on how to sew the double jeted side pocket?
Awesome!!
'Anatomy of the Trousers' is a good punk rock band name.
🤣
This "suit off the rack-guy" just loves this, the workmanship is to die for. Learned a new word that I don't know how to spell-even: "biera"? Always wondered what that was about!
The purpose of a Bearer is to button up before closing the zip. That way it “bears” the strain of the zip, enabling to zip to easily close when the trousers are worn.
@@savilerowbespokeacademy9820 Ah, everything to keep things nice and flat I presume? Having nothing but altered off-the-rack garments, I'm unfamiliar with this level of precision!
One should not operate a motor vehicle within 24 hours of listening to Sir Andrew Ramroop speak.
Legend
Hello. Well done.
Could a whole top style trouser be fashioned with belt loops. Is their another term for this style trouser? Thanks from Philadelphia
I fell asleep to this guys videos.
I dreamt of looking amazing.
My man!
Are these made by Kyozra Bespoke?
*posts in vid solely to inform that the title made me chuckle*
We need more videos
Would love to have seen the inside of the waistband on the brace trousers.
Where you from?
Yes
My newest “If I hit the lottery” thing to do is to have a suit made by Maurice Sedwell.
Is there an anatomy of the jacket video? Anatomy of the shirt? What about the collar or cuffs? It would be great to see a piece from pattern making to fitting.
Hello Michael, this video is part of the Online Foundation course, yo will be able to find the Jacket and Waistcoat anatomy when enrolling the course www.artssavilerow.com/courses/foundation-hand-sewing-skills
Super
Damn he has style
❤️❤️❤️
i like those videos. i really would like to have a suit from maurice, but i live in germany :(
👋
1:02
Apparently the 'Delta' variant is very popular now...
Please pent cutting
I don’t wear pants, but this was still interesting, thanks.
Me too
Sucks being poor!! Oh well! Get to listen which is still awesome!
Im dirt poor. But I spent lockdown teaching myself to pattern draft and make fully bespoke trousers...
I am astonished to say that my work is NOT that far behind this quality now. Which goes to show you that it is just time and patience and working slowly and attention to detail. 1 year ago all I had made was a paperboy cap. If I can do it - anyone can. I learned from the 1894 JP Thornton book on pattern drafting and TH-cam videos.
@@piccalillipit9211 Dude you're awesome!!!! I suppose it's about dedication and a commitment to quality! It'd be awesome to see your work!! Thank you for the inspiration my friend!!
@@BrassBus - Ill see if I can upload some to Instagram and give you a link to have a look. Mostly its about working very slowly and calmly. You have it in your head when you start to be like the people mass producing in a factory and be zipping through the work and its not. Even the things I do on the machine its very slow and deliberate. Its hard to mess things up when you are going really slowly.
But after 3 days you have a finished pair of trousers. I hope to do jackets later, but 1 step at a time.
@@piccalillipit9211 Hey, Lee. That's super cool. I'm doing the same and can't find anyone to talk to about it; everybody is sewing dresses and such. haha.
OMG, I feel your pain! I started with this vintage book from the 1900s called Art Deco Mens Tailoring that had one page of instructions and one diagram. They called it The New Supreme Method (spoiler: it's not!) It was a nightmare because there were all sorts of typos in the calculations, so you had to guess a lot. For example, the waist measurement was always double, so since other measures were based on that, it messed everything up and you had to start over once you realize things are out of proportion. I proudly posted that to Reddit after I finished, but someone recommended some better books.
Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear covers a lot, but it's more for basic OTR suit styles. It's not like bespoke tailoring that accounts for you.
Modern Men's Tailoring: A Basic Guide to Pattern Drafting seems to be the best bet though. This incorporates not only your measurements, but also your shoulder slope, posture, and neck. Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear didn't include that.
After I draft my pattern, I'm going to compare it to the most recent Vogue suit pattern to make sure I'm not missing anything too important either way. Plus, the pattern book doesn't really tell you how to put the suit together step by step the way Vogue does.
I also have a book called Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear that tells you the specifics, like how to do all the stitches, what tools you need, how to adapt patterns, make final adjustments, material selection, and in-depth instruction on how to do collars, pockets, and lining. It was $100, but worth it. You could use this book to adapt a pattern, but it doesn't show you how to draft a pattern from scratch.
I was going to buy an adjustable dress form, but the ones for men are like $250 more than the ones for women. It turned out that I am practically the same as the standard mannequin they use in stores, so I got one of those for $75. It's like fabric on outside, so I can pin to it. I see people making their own from duct tape though.
For the shirts, I have David Coffin's The Shirtmaking Workbook. I already designed a collar that is just perfect for me. It's taller than OTR and has two buttons so it doesn't pivot at the top button and let my tie pull it down. Now my collar stand up straight, and my tie pops out like my collar is holding it; not the other way around. I love the gap it leaves underneath since all that fabric is pulled close to your neck and out of the way. Shirts aren't as intimidating as they seem, which is cool, because those get expensive too!
I'm about to order muslin for practice, some cheap lightweight John Cooper 100s for my first try (I think it's like $75 for 4 yards), then a 120s and cashmere blend if I get it right (I think that is $40 a yard). With wools going close to 200s, I thought 120s wouldn't even be worth proceeding, but you should notice that you start getting the most results for shopping under the key words "super 120s", so I think that's actually pretty good and it's all I can afford anyway.
At this point, I'm also feeling pretty confident about this. With all these resources, it seems to come down to doing the measurements and following instructions correctly, and having a good sense of style.
Right now, I am agonizing about if my measurements are correct. I'm trying to take my own, because I don't really know anyone reliable enough. I feel like stretching to take some of the measurements is throwing the measurement off. I'm thinking of ways to set up my camera and secure the tape to my body, before I redraft.
If all that works, I'm doing shoes next. hahaha
@@j.cooperstudio5858 Im JUST off out the door so I will reply more fully later - but YES the J P Thornton book ALSO has lots of typo's and errors in it..!!! And yes a lack of consistency. I.e. "Waist" is half your actual waist - which is normal in drafting. But Knee and trouser bottom are the FULL circumferences.
Im wanting to make trousers from 1900 to 1020 in style - that is why I chose this book. I would have been better starting with modern and then working back once I understood what the hell I was doing.
BUT I have it sorted now - I am onto I think my 14th pair of trousers, they should be finished today. The book I used was "The Sectional Method" of pattern drafting. LOL
refreshing
Yeh he realised what Asmr is now
Why not do a slim trousers?
Because too narrow a trouser makes a man look like a boy.
Those bottom left graphics though :0
💜🖤💜🖤💜🖤💜
my 99cent store gym shorts feel inadequate now
Greetings Mr RAMROOP I am currently working on perfecting womens pants. Could you explain to me how to remove excess tissue from the calves, not from the sides but the middle of the calves on the back of the pants. If you can take a moment from your precious time, to give a tip it will be appreciated. Have a nice day .
those button details are hot
Does it make you moist?
@@SanjanaRanasingha 😏😏😏
@@SanjanaRanasingha It makes me quiver.
@@DwightLivesMatter ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh mmmmmmmhhhhh
I might get internet-shot for saying this buy many of these features and the choice of colours look rather kitsch and flamboyant.
Yes I feel that to pull off this look you need to be a Latino.
Zorro, for instance.
@@DwightLivesMatter if you walk into Maurice sedwell you won't be held at duress that you turn the navy suit idea you wanted into some gay parade thing. The point is, if you can imagine it bespoke tailors will 99.99% likely be able to make it.
Step down heel...never saw that style. I thought the heel cuffs should be straight and break slightly over the shoe.
His fav word is delta
That waistband looks like the Aurora Borealis is color & sheen.
With hidden pockets for extra magazines, should your party have more guests than anticipated...
Imagine having 30k subs and not bothering with your youtube channel
I apologise for my obvious comment but shouldn’t he make a navy suit??🤦♂️