My in Depth Duraspark 2 II Troubleshooting Diagnostic Guide
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- I tried my best to talk about all the things I could possibly think of when it comes to troubleshooting the infamous Duraspark II systems. If I missed anything or you have had some other odd experiences with these systems be sure to drop a informative nice comment below. I am not sure if there are any differences when I comes to other vehicles, I don't think so but always check and make sure your system is similar. I also wanted to say this Duraspark II system in my Ford looks to be all still stock in terms of wiring.
May The Lord Jesus Bless Ya!!!
My Links: linktr.ee/tyle...
1977 Ford F250 Playlist: • My 1977 Ford F250
In Partnership with the eBay Affiliate Program I earn a small commission when you purchase products through the links below no extra charge to you. It helps me out a TON!
(Always Double check your vehicle Parts/Part # Before Purchasing)
(eBay Affiliate Links)
Duraspark II Module: ebay.us/GOMxog
Ford Starter Solenoid: ebay.us/ZOiLqx
| Check Distributor Drive Gear & Camshaft Materials i.e. Cast Or Machined / Engine Type, Generation, Displacement |
Ford General Duraspark II Distributor: ebay.us/8e24au
Canister Coils (Check Points VS ICM Specifications): ebay.us/l0KdAL
Multimeters: ebay.us/OyEuoG
If I missed a link feel free to ask and I will see if I can get it posted up.
I am going to not post any anti theft devices or power disconnects sorry yall
Search eBay and you will find them pretty quick.
Due to this video dealing with systems that can be used to hotwire vehicles and steal property, damage property, or leave you stranded on the side of the road I am not a mechanic and the entirety of this video is only advice. Attempt any of it at your own risk.
#fordf250 #diyproject #fordtrucks
When you hear roosters in the background you know it's about to get real.
This is one of the only actually helpful videos for someone who usually hates getting into electronic systems. Thank you man
Praise God for your video dude! I have this engine in a Altech Whisper Chipper. Only works when cold cuts off when it gets up to operating temperature. Thanks to your video i'm going to switch my Ignition module. And hopefully that does the trick.
Greatly appreciate the "blessed day" you said up front, so even though I've mechanic for 40+ yrs.....I haven't retained it all. You did an awesome job with info and added humor was definitely a plus. Thank you sir for your devoted time doing this video
My 83 f150 4.9 started running weak yesterday, and eventually quit. No spark now. Had it towed home. Im a 70 yo shade tree not very great mechanic and electric is not my strong point. I just got a mutimeter, and slowly learning from video. As a n artistic guy, my brain doesnt do well with much mechanical. I put an old duraspk module i had, on it. Still no spark. I ordered new distribtor, and coil and voltage reg on Amazon just now. The old parts have been on for many years, and time to replace them, and praying they well do the trick;. You sure know tons more than me , as im not that mechanical and at my age, slipping some. Great job and thanks. It can sure be a comedy show like Laurel and Hardy or the 3 stooges, or Red Skelton, when i try to fix vehicles. A boot camp!!
Excellent video friend, I am currently restoring a Ranger 86 2.0 and it has the same ignition. You will need to put an additional ground to the chassis and check that the connections are not loose and to avoid having problems with a burnt coil, you will have to use a resistor, unfortunately.
greetings.
Chasing a crank no spark. I’ll let you know what I find. ‘76 f250. Thanks for the video!
Thank you very much. Much good useful info and well done.
My Jeep cj5 has that same ignition module. A few weeks ago I experienced the failure of the duraspark box. The potting was melted when I bought the Jeep. I’m pretty sure that’s the reason I stalled out. I’m glad I found this video extremely helpful.
Great video, with good presentation on specifics that could be killer boring, but your style of presentation was great.
Excellent source of information! Thank you for sharing!
My truck kept dying suddenly while driving in town; I was newbie so I was a little stumped. Turns out, the coil horseshoe was the issue (discovered while idling and I barely, BARELY touched the green wire and the truck suddenly died). The metal connectors were definitely the issue (corrosion, loose...) I just pulled the wires out of the metal connectors inside the shoe, stripped and folded the wires over each plastic edge of the shoe so that when I put it back on it pressed the wire securely to the coil buttons. Has worked since (I can even yank on the wires and they stay put). I even added a tach wire the same way. Only thing I will change this summer is to put a dab of dielectric grease on the stripped wire because I can see that they're getting a bit corroded.
Thank you for posting. I am challenged by the ignition system in my ‘79 Lincoln with 400 V8. Replaced plugs, distributor cap, rotor. Will put in new ignition coil and all new spark and coil wires. If that is no-go, will replace module. Hope to be back on road in spring. Car hesitated and died in front of my house. Cranks well but doesn’t start.
Did you figure out your issue???
I have an 88 E350 cranks but no spark really new to this really new to me but your video was very helpful it shows me a lot of thing to check. Thank you!
Thanks Tyler, good info. Trouble-shooting a 86 E-350 w/460, NO SPARK issue. Ran fine 2yrs ago, been sitting up since. New batteries, cleaning all the connections now. Replaced the Duraspark box and coil, not getting anything from the coil yet. Breaking out the meter, diving in...thanks for the clear advice.
This is an excellent video. Huge thanks for taking the time to go through all this. Such a huge help!!!
Upgrading my 79 F150 300 to a 3G Alt (from 96 Taurus) was awesome. Rip out so much junk like that regulator, don't use the right side of the starting coil peg, etc.
Had a '76 Granada, I kept a new ignition module in the trunk at all times. Fast, cheap, easy fix. They'd last about 8 months. Not sure why they'd fail. They weren't in a spot that was exposed to high heat.
I think you helped me. I'll check it out in the morning.
Thanks amigo, you absolutely right, just in case emergency just cleab up with dw 40 i talking about coil, the distributor, but i would recommend change, again thanks so much, i was in the street done and i saw your video, good luck
Gracias amigo excelente video.
Thanks Tyler, great video - thanks for putting it on the web
A lot of good info in this video.
I really appreciate and enjoyed your video 😊
Thank you for this helpful video. I didn't have the brown wire hooked up to "I" side of the starter relay and all the diagrams I have found have had different colored wires. May the Lord watch over you too. Great work. count your ums and ahs, you really know your stuff. You should be credible. Those sounds are fillers. Silence is okay while you gather your thoughts. Thanks again
Great video and thoughtful presentation! 👍
I got one for you. 1987 F350 7.5, This truck had been sit for years, Pulled the engine after breaking 8 exhaust manifold bolt and replaced main seal. Reinstalled engine fire right up. Backed in out of garage numerous times. While idling it died, acted like it ran out of fuel. Try starting with starting fluid with no luck. Only spark was coil to distributor, when key was turned on or off. All test with multi-meter came back ok. All contact clean. Still no spark. Removed cap, cracked engine, Rotor did not turn. Twisted rotor by hand, it popped and would rotate by hand or when cranked. Pulled distributor, I could rotate the gear while holding the rotor or rotate the gear and watch the rotor turn. Off to buy a distributor.
I aways add an extra ground to the duraspark box to the intake manifold.The ground going through the distibutor can fail.
Thanks for the tips im working on a 76 pinto but all the same stuff just smaller
I used a bosch styled relay to send power to the coil which is activated from the run position
I'd just use a TFI-IV coil with the Dura spark 2 distributor and GM 4 pin HEI module because the D2 coil can't take the full 12v from the ignition. So they step down the voltage with a resistor. If you want to convert points to solid state ignition and you don't want to chase wires you can buy a resistor block for like a 70 Chrysler Newport or similar and then go through that because the Dura spark 2 coil can only handle what was it around 9 volts but I don't like messing with the resistors and just use the TFI-IV coils. They're hotter and have a better spark duration like the MSD or HEI. Just red to red wires and green to green. And then if you don't like the Ford module you could go with a 4 pin HEI with 4 spade connectors and mount it to something like a computer heatsink. But back to the TFI-IV coil you can run a wider spark plug gap. Make sure you have good ground and hot. I usually get rolls of 14ga wire online. The benefit of the HEI module is the dwell control and current limiting circuits allows you to run any coil you want. If you need the roller cam gear you want a D2 distributor from an 85 Mustang GT 5.0 because they were roller cam. Otherwise just swap the gear. The only benefit i know on the Dura spark module is it actually causes the timing to retard (only in start) for easier starting and it will last longer.
Just replaced the module on my 87 motorhome.... I was mad at myself for not knowing where my diagnostic books were from a Motorcraft course i took back in my mechanic days. (1981).... Not a fan of the parts cannon, but when it comes to duraspark, throw on a module before you waste too much time.. 90% of the time it's problem solved. Also blob some dielectric grease into the sockets before you plug in, to prevent corrosion.
I definitely like this video and have questions
I am still wondering about the coil and the resister . My 86 ford has power on startup then won’t have any power in run mode
DUDE. i have a 77 ford maverick, you are SAVING MY LIFE with this vid. thank you times a million. i’ve seen a couple of your other vids on this truck as well, also mega helpful. please keep us updated on the truck! the previous owner actually switched my maverick BACK to the points ignition system, so I’m converting it to the og Duraspark the way it was intended. so far everything is making sense, but one issue is the pesky pink wire. as far as i can tell, the green and red wire runs all the way to the ignition switch and doesn’t turn into a pink wire…i guess this means i have to put a ballast resistor in? it’s weird, because you’d think it would come stock with the resistor wire, it being a 1977 like your truck. hopefully this makes sense to you…i can obviously expand on this. cheers man.
Super happy that I was able to help ya on your Mavrick! I for sure would do ballast resistor. Small, less wires, more reliable all the above shoot you MIGHT be able to get a size that allowed a bit more voltage out. 0.5 to 1 volt more or something. It shouldn't cook anything and might give a bit stronger spark.
@@TylerCreates that sounds awesome. i will do that. do you mean get more voltage to the coil? so in essence i would need less resistance in the ballast resistor? sorry i don’t really know electronics.
Well after doing some research with a coil that is rated for 12 volts which I think most are. A lot of people don't run any sort of resistor. I forget the wire only drops voltage by about 2 volts. I would do some reasech, I typed duraspark resistor wire and tons of forum stuff comes up.
@@TylerCreates totally. sounds great man, thanks a bundle
@@TylerCreates it does seem to be a weird design flaw. why not just make every coil able to handle 12 volts? maybe some kind of cost thing.
You might be correct on ground. Replacement battery cable to engine no ground to body I have spark to dist cap little coming out of cap. 2 year old napa cap rotor 1000 miles? Failed?rubber mounting exhaust rubber mounting what is left? Throttle? Good thought
I'm putting a duraspark box in my 64 Falcon because the 302 that l'm installing. The motor ran good on duraspark before I pulled it from the doner vehicle. Wish me luck. I'll need it.
You will be fine. It works without the white wire connected. I have been using the white wire. Make sure its connected to the 'S' terminal on starter relay. The 'I' terminal will backfeed power from the coil to the module effectively neutralizing that function. It will run fine and you will never know it's wired wrong.
Man i had the no start and no turn on engine icheckwd from key switch ignition trouble shooting all the way down to battery. Ended up being my freaking neitral safety switch on transmission. Great content you produce tho. 👍✌️
Thanks for info
Voltage Regulator.. Ignition Accessories Stator Field..
If you have a Dead Battery/Short.. it could be the Stator circuit in the regulator! Unplug the connector and check resistance on battery terminals (off the battery)
Very informative! I hope it's just my starter 😓
Duraspark II gets a very undeserved bad rap.
I've never had to use the spare unit I carry in the back of my foxbody.
:)
After many days and hrs trying many things to get "fire".....turns out the distributor not turning....will pull tomorrow to see if roll pin sheared and if oil pump turns, pray for me. I'm working on a 70's model Hobart welder with 2.3l with duraspark system
Helpful thank you
Just tried this on my 1985 Bronco II 2.8 V6. Took everything from a 79 Pinto. Bronco starts up but is misfiring pretty good. Cant figure it out
What about weak spark from coil only when switch engaged and disengaged: crank =single spark and release = single spark
My particular duraspark won’t even run on cheap replacement boxes it will instantly fry them. In general any duraspark can be fairly picky. DO NOT BUY THE CHEAP REPLACMENTS! Buy a quality aftermarket unit or find OEM
I personally have found a good aftermarket quality box to use is a napa branded box part #TP40
I am sharing this to hopefully save some of you the headache I had gone through (on many ds equips vehicles) till I found this box
Hi first i want to thank you for sharing. do happen to have the link where you Print the voltage Specs for Selnoid Coil Etc if i would have pause your Video an check Thanks.
Ok 79 F150 I6 cranks no start…seems like the brain box is sending constant ground to coil…no spark…
I’ve changed out everything but the distributor…that will be my next move…thoughts?
Im stuck with my 1979 f150 with the 400ci motor and it has intermittent issues where it will run good for a couple days and drive excellently then will out of nowhere shut off and have 0 Spark and will only crank but if you leave it there the next day it will run for a bit and then do the same I’m really stuck on what it can be I replaced the distributor the ignition coil the spark plugs and the wires the dura spark box seems to be in good condition mounted on the fender so it doesn’t get hot I’ve touched it after driving it for a while it stays cool I am loosing it with this truck if anyone knows what else I can do to try and find the issue reply to my comment thank you have a good day
First thing that comes to mind is anything heat related. There are really only two variables changing in your scenario, heat and engine vibration. Since vibration usually causes intermediate hard to track issues heat would be the only other option. I would check for boiling your gas in the line up to the carburetor or in the carburetor bowl. Depending on your setup/carb you will want to check and see.
Have you checked for spark when the truck doesn't restart? Also is your distributor on the cheaper side or a decent replacement. The cheap distributor I bought had the pickup coil inside go bad causing all kinds of issues after heating up, Got one from Autozone and seemed to fix the issue. As a side note you should check what material the distributor gear is as there is two types for different cam metal materials, If they are not matched one will wear out the other faster and cause serious issues. One more thing is to check how hot your coil is when failure occurs
(Don't Get Burned), I have read cheap tachometers can cause a direct short resulting in coil failure which happened to me resulting in a tow.
This is all just my opinion based on the info you provided, remember keep it simple first.
Hope this helps!
The cable to the starter , hooks up you said on the starter. Where on the starter ? Mine goes to ground on the frame, but I think it needs replaced just because of age. It turns over wired like it is, but won't start. Can new wiring harnesses be purchased for : where all the 3 duraspark plugs plug in ? Thanks
The cable should go from the starter solenoid up on the fender well to the starter. I think on my starter there is only one location to bolt the wire lug. Might depend on what vehicle as well.
@TylerCreates it is an 85 for E350 w/ 460. I drove it 50 miles with no problem but had grounded the alternator at the ground connector to the frame where the one from solenoid is. After that, is when it stopped running. I drove it home, stopped it , then in the morning it refused to start. Had to tow it to where I store it. I'M THINKING IT OVERHEATED THE SPARK BOX, AND KILLED IT, SO i Put in a new ign spark box, but still no start. Might have to remove the ground wire from allernators stud marked Grd. Never had trouble before that. I replaced the distributor Pickup coil, the regular oil filled coil, the voltage regulator, and the plug that went to the spark box from the harness, as it had a wire almost ripped off and exposed on one lead....it is the one with the side groove that prevents wrong hook up. I bought some dielectric grease from Israel I thought was a great deal. It was like 13.00 for a decent size container to use on connections. Can give you the name of product if interested. Just realised I forgot to plug both plugs in before trying to start it, so I will do that tomorrow after removing that cable from the Alternator and let you know if it worked. I decided to buy a motorcraft brand box this time. I even added 3.... 1/2" L tubular spacers 1/4 inch iD to lift up the unit to help it cool. Really appreciate your explanation of the ford system, there was something else I thought of, but can't recall it right now. I put that grease on 1/4" inch dia bolts that screwed through the units 3 threaded bolt holes, using the dielectric grease to hold the tubular spacers on while installing tubes over the bolts that go through 3 holes inside the fender well where mine is mounted, and used lock washers on outside fender well where tire is, and nuts to hold the unit tight. I think they are each like 1/2" long, and two of the 1 /4 " bolts that are approx 2" long are brass. Thought I might add a computer 12v fan nearby, to keep it cool, but that was just an idea . Thanks again for your time explaining it all.....other options were to use a chevy type dizzy with top coil, or rig up a chevy hei module someone showed how to rig up to the 3 ford plugs . That dialectric grease is supposed to be high performance, so, I can use it on the back of the chevy hei unit if I go that way, or on anything electrical like plug wire connectors. Sorry about being long winded, but anyway, I will see what happens tomorrow. That ground cable is like 2 Ga cable off the Grd screw on the 65 Amp alternator to the frame at the same place as the cable from the starter solenoid, so that might be why the module got too hot and was likely feeding back , not sure, as until I did that it never had any problems..... your video made me think WTF did I do wrong ? So tomorrow I will disconnect it first before trying to start it after hooking up the two black plastic plugs I fricken hate those plugs ford uses on its spark boxes. They should have has two squeeze tabs to help pull those mofos open when you need to pull those plugs off...pain in the ass. You're right about ford having bad grounds, especially on 2006 mustangs that aren't grounded properly at the alternators and as a result spike like 18 v destroying the batteries and alternators repeatedly , so when you park it it has a parasitic draw that kills the ability to start after a day or less. I did a repair for that problem for a friend who had that issue, and even upgraded battery cables to 600 strand tinned boat cable, and installed a 200 Amp mini fuse inline from the + cable to a buss bar before it on the firewall and went from a 165 Amp Alt to a 200Amp Alt.... that was compatible through an electric switch that was rated at 100,000 times, and put a on and off kill switch into the glove box where it couldn't be seen rather than test 3 huge fuse boxes left right and rear for parasitic draws, and after that all you do is shut off the ride, and turn off the glove box switch. To start, turn on glove box switch, then start the car. Never had another problem . So I know you are right about ford grounding problems ....they ARE shit. I built a special ground plug to fit into an oval hole next to the Alt in the frame that already existed that has a long bolt to go through the frame from above with the nut facing up , then bolted not only the ground cable to that, but an 8 Ga. Wire to the Alt frame with proper crimped connectors, changing both battery connectors too, and that thing really never had another problem electrically. So in watching your video, and thinking about what I did, I think my bolo was that adding a ground to the Alt to where the solenoid connects to the frame. I WILL HAVE TO LOOK AT A WIRING SCHEMATIC FOR THAT MOTOR HOME.to see for the E350. Why that cable is mounted there I have no idea. Have I lost you yet in my explanations ? By the way I felt your lighting in your video was fine.... wish I had done a video on that 06 mustang, it would have been great on you tube.....took me 3 months to puff out, but i think I did take some photos . Thanks for your video help....because I hate fords ......ps. I also did a complete rebuild a C-6 ford 3 speed auto a couple years ago, made it into a monster transmission, and never had built one previously.....,runs like a bat outa hell. Even installed a transmission oil filter on the return line . I can tell you how I figured out how to do it right if you're interested.....might make a good idea for another video for you. I am not a mechanic, but a retired machinist car enthusiast. NOT any better than you are. Thanks for answering, it helped me a lot.... jd
Hooked it all up today, but still no start. It is something simple, maybe I got a bad regulator when I just replaced it, but i did drop a wrench on the battery and it sparked. Oh I recall what else I was going to mention.....I also replaced the ign switch bolted on the column steering wheel tube, checked the acutator rod was moving it right and it is.. I noticed the wiring to the coil shoe was exposed inside the loom, sheathing missing. I am thinking it might need a new ign harness. But will think it over, they are around 100.00. Thanks again...I checked the rotor and it's turning. So can't be the dizzy gear. The cable out of solenoid goes to the block on right lower side of engine, but also has a cable hooked to a holding loop to just hold it up going to starter, so I think it must be positive ground. Hooking that cable to the ground on the alternator wouldn't damage the alternator, I wouldn't think. I just don't like fords very much.
I put the reluctor in some rust remover to clean it up , I think it is supposed to have a magnetic charge, but with the new distributor Pickup coil, I wouldn't think that would be it. Haven't given up yet.
My ford F100 cranks but stop charging. Tried everything need help
i have a 1981 4.9 i cant get to stay on seems it missfires randomely dies how can i check durasspark module
I hooked a spark plug to my coil wire and it sparks like it should, but as soon as I hook it back to the cap I hear it sparking inside the distributor and I have no spark to any of the plugs. This has me extremely confused because I sanded the rotor and cap and they’re all clean, I’m not really sure what to do now.
My ignition switch is also screwed up, it doesn’t crank on START but as soon as it returns to RUN it will crank until I turn it back to OFF. However if I turn the key to RUN and leave it there, the solenoid will close on its own after about 5-6 seconds and start cranking.
I would make sure all of your connecting going out of the starter solenoid are correct, make sure the negative battery cable is grounded to the engine block then to a body panel, depending on your vehicle. I also have heard of the starter starting when in run and not shutting off, I believe it is a back feed problem. Make sure your positive to your starter is not corroded and contacting somewhere other than the solenoid post and the starter post. As for the sparking inside the cap I really don't have a solution for that. Sounds like a leak in the system allowing the spark to get out via a wire or something shorted inside the distributor. I always try to go at these situations one thing at a time and not get sidetracked, solve the starter/key issue first and make sure your connections are all clean and correct. The key issue could be causing spark issues. Also check your alternator / voltage regulator wiring and make sure it looks normal. If you have a different vehicle getting a wiring diagram online is a super big help, I actually printed one off on a piece of paper and had it out at the truck diagnosing, super big help.
@@TylerCreates ground the engine to the frame also if you can
Very helpful video Tyler. In 1984 the module is on a plastic wheelwell, does the box need to be grounded externally? Got a weak spark, thanks for any advice.
Hello! Glad the video was a help to ya. I am not 100% sure on the box needing to be externally grounded but most of the forums online and I would agree say the box is grounded view the black wire which is grounded inside the distributor and runs to the DSII box.
I have had problems with the ground going through distributor . I tee off that ground and go to the engines block for an improved ground .Works great.
Great video!
I have an issue, so i have a ford pinto 1980 with a duraspark system, I have a small accident and a fire broke out most of the disconnects melted and the duraspark box was close by. I already replaced all the disconnects using a multimeter to figure out which cable was connected to which, I also replaced the duraspark box after watching your video because gel inside of it melted. Right now when I turn the key I get nothing not even the gages have voltage, I’m thinking maybe the solenoid burned out when the cables shorted out with the fire
That would be a good place to check right? Or do you have any idea on how to solve my issue?
Thanks
I am not getting spark during cranking. When the key goes back from start to run, I get a single spark and the engine usually fires up. If the engine is running and I shut it down, I have no problem getting it to restart--it sparks during cranking. Seems to be intermittent with cold engine. I replaced the module, but that did not fix it.
I would suspect an electrical component. Since you have replaced the Ignition box I would bet that the Hall Effect sensor or pick up coil in the distributor is bad. When they get hot they can start to operate out of their specified range or fail completely.
I have the same issue whit my 1983 f150 but I have to charge the battery all the way to 14.40 volts so the truck starts whit out problems but it warms up and just died won't start again . The mechanic put a 302 with aut transmission, now I'm doing all the work on the truck and it's very confusing.
Watching your video it helps a lot
My issue ended up being the brown/pink wire from the starter solenoid to the primary side of the coil. Not sure what happened to it but when it was bypassed everything seems normal.
My truck started,I moved it ran fine. I parked it, the next day I went out to mess with it and I have absolutely no power to anything on the harness.
I put new battery leads, battery is good. New solenoid, new duraspark2 box,
I can jump solenoid and starter turns, but I have absolutely no power to anything on the wire harness, no lights no ignition, nothing.
If I make a jumper from battery to harness, I can make head lights come on and coil have fire, but still can't turn the key and start, no power to the switch, if I jump solenoid and and make engine turn and have a jumper wire to harness it will try to hit a lick. But it's like its trying to start with the key in off,
Long story short I have lost complete power to my harness and switch. But I have power to the starter.
I've untaped my whole harness and I've started replacing every connector but I haven't found the problem yet.
Ps. I do not have a clue what that 3 prong box is. It looks like a horn relay
Well as for having no power all the sudden I would check your fuse panel up under the driver side dash on the firewall for blown fuses. If you have a blown fuse then something caused it to blow, I would get a whole bunch of fuses anyway as they are an older style and could leave you stranded on the side of the road. I would first check the big yellow wire coming into the back of the ignition switch as that is always charged 12v. I don't know if that wire runs through the fuse panel, I would assume so but maybe not. If you don't have power there then something is wrong and that wire needs to be traced back to battery or solenoid as its the main keyed power to the truck turning everything on, I think its yellow. The little relay deal on the passenger fender back and above the ignition solenoid should be the horn relay, If you have cruise control it might be a cruise control relay but I believe it's horn.
@Tyler Creates you are just a awesome human being, I want you to know that
@Tyler Creates I have checked all fuses,
I have took the Guage cluster out to trace yellow wire back, it goes up behind the Guage and factory splices into the black with green stripe.
Do you have a harness wire running to your battery or solenoid?
My hot goes to the solenoid then to starter.
I have a brown ignition and red/blue start wire but I don't see a wire the fed the harness power to begin with
Thank you. This is the most understandable video on this system. Tyler, I have a no spark issue out of the coil. I am only able to attempt to start it by jumping the starter solenoid. Key will not send voltage to the solenoid. But, Upon attempting to start it by jumping the solenoid, it has a Very slow crank. Battery voltage is good and grounds look good. They Replaced ICM, Coil, Pick up coil and still no spark out of the coil. The connections on wires are moisture corroded but voltages and resistances are in parameter's. What am I missing?
The slow crank should only be a few things, Poor connections, A bad or weak starter, Or low voltage.
As for the key not sending signal back to the starter solenoid you should be able to see if 12v is being supplied through one of the small wires on the front S and I (Start / Ignition) I would test both as they could be backward or not getting 12 volts from the key. If that's the case then trace to the key and see if it is getting 12 volts and so on. The coil gets it firing signal from the DS2 box and the DS2 box gets it fire signal from the Pickup in the distributor, remember the whole system is grounded inside the distributor so that ground is crucial to operation. If corrosion is present I would get some electrical spray cleaner and some dielectric grease and clean it all up good, do it right and it will last a long time. Another thing to check is that the DS2 box is getting 10ish volts in the Ignition position at its plug and 12volts when the key is in Cranking position. Remember to not leave your key On to long as it can cause to Coil to Heat up and Explode. With the key in the On position you should be able to rotate the reluctor and have one of its 8 towers pass the pickup coil sending a signal to the DS2 box and getting the coil to spark manually.
( Don't get shocked!) as the system could be hot and ready to go with the key on.
Neutral safety switch
Hey Tyler great info! Can you come over to my house and help me figure out why my 78 bronco won't crank over? 😅
Replaced;
Switch
Duraspark box
Starter solidnoid
Voltage regulator
Coil
Battery
Fusible links
Alternator
I turn the key and it's like power is completely cut off. Absolutely nothing happens
Head lights come on 🤷🏽♂️
(Took it to a shop they said they couldn't figure it out either)
Haha, well while I am not able to come to your house I can provide some things to look for with a no crank situation. First thing I would do is make sure your grounds are correct. I believe like my truck the negative battery cable is grounded through the engine block and then grounded from the back of the engine to the cab. Also to make sure your starter is good you can jump battery voltage (fully charged battery) straight to the other side of the starter solenoid and if that does not work I would pull the starter out and test it on the ground with jumper cables and a battery. Most likely if it doesn't work with jumping from battery voltage to starter side on the solenoid you have something wrong with the starter or a connection is lose. A multi meter can save you a world of hurt when testing electrical on these rigs.
Some other things I would look into is if the wiring has been tampered with, what condition is the rig in, things like that help to understand what some other person might have done in the past.
I don't know much English brother, but could you write me why the ignition module can burn? I have a Ford Maverick and there are already 3 modules that burn me in less than 3 months, I hope you can support me, to translate the text, greetings.
Hello, yes the Ford Ignition Module can burn. These Modules do not like being hot. In a Mavrick I think your Module is right next to your exhaust. The Module is placed on the inside fender next to the Header and can get really hot. You should be able to move your Module to a cooler location away from your exhaust and keep it from getting hot and melting down.
Good video on the Dura-Spark 2 system. I have an 86 F-250 with the 460 4x4. I just rebuilt the engine. One of the issues I ran in to was that mine has the push on style connectors for the coil. It also has a factory Tachometer in dash. People need to watch out for those wires breaking on that push on connector on the coil. Mine broke on the negative/ Tach side of the coil and I was not getting any spark. Crazy thing was it broke inside the connector and I couldn't see it. I finally found it when I looked really close on the coil connector. But there's more. My Truck is Carbureted and it has the low pressure in tank electric fuel pumps in both tanks. No Mechanical pump on the engine. The problem I'm now having is that the fuel pumps are not being energized, so I'm not getting fuel to the Carb. I can poor gas down the carb and it will start but not stay running. I think it may be the Fuel Tank Valve down on the side of the frame rail. But with it being so cold I can't get out and work on it. Wife is using the Garage for her car. This Trucks fuel system is really stupid. Just one more thing the idiot engineers do to dam up the water works.
If you take I wire off solenoid and connect to power jump solenoid won't it start?
If you lose your keys you can jump some connections and start engine and get home.
Hello sir do those systems hade dual ignition? And how posibly wuld it work?
I have somthing similar like that ford selenoid but I use GM starter selenoid I have 4 pin gm ignition module and e core ignition coil the fuse pops when I try to use that R terminal from starter selenoid is there any solution to use that terminal on electronic ignition?
I dont know perhaps me voltage regulator inside dashboard ore ignition module is polarity sensitive .
So please any help
I honestly would have no clue with GM stuff. Also, these old systems do not have dual ignition. Since you are blowing a fuse it should be pretty easy to track down the issue with a multimeter and read how much voltage is trying to flow through the fuse and causing it to blow and track it back to the source and go from there.
TYLER CREATES!!! what is the shiny 3 prong box on the firewall just up from the solenoid???
Horn relay. You can hook the white wire to the yellow wire and retard your timing when you honk honk.
Good video. I agree with everything but noted some confusion about the white wire.
i have 79 f150 custom, replaced solonoid starter checks out good on the test bench at the parts store but when tapping solonoid or turning the key the starter will not engage, it does not crank just clicks at the solonoid. is this in the ignition switch ? whats a quick fix?
Sounds like a bad ground since the solenoid is new and the starter checks out. You can jump from the positive side of the solenoid or (battery positive) to the starter side with a tool or large wire and see if it cranks. Also check when you get time check continuity from negative battery terminal to block.
@@TylerCreates actually already tried to tap the solenoid via hot to starter side but just get a click. it will not engage the starter. checked all cables for continuity from solenoid to starter and from solenoid to battery and all connections and ground is good. is there something in the actual ignition switch that could prevent the starter from engaging ?
thanks for the help man !
I wouldn't think so, all the key does is send 12 volts via (I think) a yellow wire to the solenoid in the engine bay causing the solenoid to switch and pass battery 12 volts to the solenoid on the starter and into the starter. I would be tempted to straight jump the starter from the battery + to the solenoid on the starter. (Make sure your trucks in park with the E brake on) If that doesn't work the starter is most likely the problem as hot 12 volts should cause it to spin no matter what.
My truck starts and runs but the control module isn't connected how is it starting
Do you have a points style distributor and not a Duraspark distributor? That is the only way the vehicle could run without having the box plugged in.
@@TylerCreates I'm not sure the original motor was taken out by the previous owner it has a 460 in it now with wires all over the place and some going nowhere thank you for your quick reply the video was very informative going to find more about information on my truck
No problem, Glad the video was of help! Depending on the year of truck and more importantly the year of 460 you have it would have to have either a box that sends the spark or a points distributor that sends the spark making the truck run. Is it a Fuel injected or Carbureted 460?
@@TylerCreates carburetor I'll try to attach a picture when I get back into town
Hey Tyler, My 79 F150 is having spark issues.It would crank button start. I had spark out of the coil but no start. Cleaned the connector to the pick up coil and it fired right up, more than once. Now today, it won't start again? Have spark from the coil but when I check the neg side of the coil who cranking it "does not" flick on and off on a test probe. Does that mean a bad pick up coil? Where do I go next? Thanks Dennis.
Hello Dennis!
This does sound like a bad connection as it seems most troubles that are intermediate tend to be electrical related. One thing I learned testing coils is if you try to test negative with a test light you are actually providing a constant ground to the coil. If I remember right, I tried this and whenever I touched the test light or (I think) the multimeter to the negative side of the coil it killed the engine because a path was being provided for a constant ground rather that an intermediate ground (Pickup Coil) which causes the coil to release spark. I'm pretty sure this also can happen when testing spark as the spark takes the test light path rather than the spark plug wires. As for the pickup coil if it is above or below the specs I listed its probably bad, when they go bad it can cause very intermate problems. Another thing is make sure the ground inside the distributor is cleaned and connecting. Also if cleaning the pickup coil connection at the distributor helped move up the wiring loom to the connections at the fire wall, I would clean all of them and be careful the connectors can be brittle.
@@TylerCreates Thanks Tyler, I will check those items out and see if it's a fix. I keep thinking it's a corrosion or ground issue also. Appreciate your help and your outstanding video.
Tyler, 700 Ohms on the pick up coil. Good continuity on the P/U coil ground. Checked all the wires back to the firewall from the distributer and the coil. All had continuity. Does this point toward the p/u coil? It seems to be pretty new (doesn't always mean anything). I also cleaned all the connectors with spray contact cleaner and scraped the contacts on the distributer. ???? Thanks Dennis
Dennis, Have you pulled a wire off down at a plug and tested for spark there while cranking?
@@TylerCreates Hi Tyler, I had checked for spark there before and nothing. I'll check again. Running out of options. Has a new coil, new duraspark ignition box, new starter solenoid, seems to be pretty new wires-distributer cap-pick up coil etc. Thing I keep thinking about is it fired up after cleaning the pick up coil connector. Going to try and make another check on the pick up coil I saw on line, ohms should fluctuate as you turn the distributer shaft past the coil.
Will using a 45000 volt coil ruin a factory ignition module?
Be safe and use a basic factory type coil. Actual voltage is determined by the spark plug gap. .045 gap might spark at 22,317 volts. Why pay for an extra 22,683 volts that will never happen?
Where did you get your 2 pin wire that plugs into the ignition module?
I'm not sure what wire you are talking about. I ordered a bulk thing of various colored wires off eBay for the tach and some other things under the dash, super happy with them as well.
@@TylerCreates 42:57 You can see the one with the red and white wire.
The two pin with the red and white wires is factory, it's power and I believe crank retard for the DSII box.
HEI swap and throw the duracrap away. You are welcome.
Yeah the bad pickup coils are from standard ignition for anyone who's wondering