Peter, thanks for the video. I was having an issue with my KW and when I disassembled the unit I discovered a wire with a broken solder joint. The video helped me identify where it needed to go. Unit is now functioning perfectly again.
Thanks for the video! I have one of these since the mid 50's. It has developed an issue. Anytime a load is applied, no matter how low, the Short Light comes on and brightens as more throttled is applied. Happens on both A and B. It has been working fine for 2 days after setting up for Christmas, then developed this with no warning. It was serviced about 7 years ago. Thanks for any Ideas.
Thank you for the comment, Eugene. Either you have a short or you do not. Check for shorts on the tracks and with the wiring. If all the wiring is in good shape, and you do not have a short circuit on your layout, then the problem would probably be with the circuit breaker. Replacing a circuit breaker is very easy. There are 3 wires: 1. the rectangular wire from the core to the breaker; 2. the lamp resistor wire that goes from the breaker to the lamp (wire #1 on the wiring schematic ); and 3. the black wire that goes back from the other post of the breaker to the C post. You can use a replacement thermal breaker, the base of which you can attach to the underside of the operating platform with a silicone adhesive, or you can order an aftermarket replacement of the circuit breaker (part #20-22). Please let me know the result. Merry Christmas!
Thank you Peter. The KW videos are very good. You made repairing these seem very feasible. I have 2 of these excellent transformers and I will not hesitate to take them apart when necessary thanks to your videos.
Hello, James! Thank you for the kind words. By all means invest your time and effort to keep the KW's in tip-top shape. If you hit some snags along the way, please give a shout.
I would really appreciate it if you would show a video on rebuilding the Lionel Type Z 250 Watt Transformer. In my personal opinion the type Z Transformer is superior to the ZW. You just can not find any information, or Videos on it. Very helpful video that I appreciate. Very informative. I really Love the Lionel Type Z. It is a super great Transformer. I have 3 ZW’s 3 Type Z’s and 3 Type V’s
@@67gt500snakebite I agree with you 100%. The Z is a great pre-war and post-war transformer, but was quickly eclipsed in the post war period by the ZW. I have not yet had the opportunity to tear apart a Z and restore it.
Peter, Your video gave me the confidence to open my KW transformer. I didn't see anything unusual. I tested the Xformer by taking just the power section of FastTrack and use the search light car to test the circuit. With car off the track the voltages at all posts were normal and both circuits voltages tracked with throttle position. I placed the car on the track and got the short light. However, there was reduced voltage to the track, just enough power to give a dim light on the car. I place a jumper around the breaker and the voltage came to normal, bright light on the car and the short light was off. Does this indicate a bad breaker and why doesn't it kill all power when it indicates a short? Or is something else going on? I looks like two heavy black wires on one breaker terminal with woven sheath that goes down (I couldn't see where}. Thanks so much and Merry Christmas!
Thank you for the message, Michael. It usually takes several seconds for the circuit breaker to kick in on a KW. It sounds like your situation has an immediate rather than a delayed response. Let us eliminate the possibility that it is the spotlight car that is the source of the problem. Remove the spotlight car and put a load on the system by running a locomotive. If the locomotive runs without a problem, we should take a look at the spotlight car. If the current is shorted by running the locomotive, then the problem is within the transformer and replacing the circuit breaker would be a good idea. Always replace the wires attending the circuit breaker when making that change. Broken wires and faulty. Insulation can also be culprits. Please write back and let me know how things work out.
@@peterfenzel4742 You have been much help. It was the breaker. However, the one in your video is not available and no cross reference. I called Buss customer service, and they had no reference, I got one from an auto parts store for $5, but was for 10 amps, but works great. Thanks for saving me $$$.
Loved your videos! I changed the powercord, rollers, and rectifier disc as per your videos on my own KW!!. All works well. When i use the whistle lever on the B side it stops and reverses the locomotive. It did this before i even touched it. What do you think could be causing this?? Thanks in advance!
Thank you for the comment and for the question, Tony. The two reversing buttons on the top of the transformer should reverse the direction of the locomotive, not the whistle lever. The fact that the whistle lever is interrupting power to enable the unit within the locomotive to cycle into neutral, and then into the opposite direction suggests that your wires are crossed inside the transformer. Please go to my video on rewiring, a KW transformer to see where the wires are supposed to be and check whether your transformer conforms to that wiring arrangement. Another quick test would be to see whether turning the whistle lever adds another 5 volts to your power output. Use a multimeter to check whether, at full throttle, the 20 V increases to 25 V, when you turn the whistle lever on the A side and the B side. If the B side does not show the compensating voltage increase, then that will confirm that your wires need to be rearranged internally. Please let me know how things result. Thanks a lot! Good luck.
Yes i am getting 20 volts on both A and B sides. 25 volts on the A side when the whistle lever is pushed. However when i use the B side whistle lever, it drops from 20 volts down to 0 then up to 25. when its pushed all the way. Very strange. I can live with it, i just wont be able to use the whistle on the B side. I wonder if its the actual lever thats bad? Either way i still enjoyed all your intructional videos! Keep em coming!! I love learning how to DYI!!
Hello Tony! The fact that the voltage drops to zero before it rises to 25v on the B side explains the reversing of the locomotive. From your description, it sounds like the B side loses contact and then regains contact at the extreme end of the turn. I would remover the operating platform and visually inspect the B side lever for consistent contact. Make sure there is no debris or grime impairing consistent contact. Take pictures along the way so you remember how to reassemble.
Peter thanks so much for giving me the advise! I was never able to really figure it out , i tried everything!!! So i purchased a new top platform and transfered all parts and wiring to the new operating platform, i even did a new diode since i had it all apart! Your videos gave me the confidence to attempt it!! Its working perfectly now! New cord, rollers, diode, circit breaker, operating platform, it should go for another 80 years! Thanks! 😊
Peter- Great video I am almost finished. I have a different (older) style circuit breaker. Before I finish assembly, how can I determine if it is working?
Thank you for the comment, ROBERT. You might as well go ahead and install your circuit breaker and then test it once it’s installed. The simple way is to create a short circuit by putting a screwdriver across the tracks and see whether the red light lights up, indicating that the circle breaker has done its job. You might also take notice of how much time passes between creating the short circuit and the break of the circuit. Assuming the circuit breaker responds appropriately within few moments, you are done. If not, you might consider a different breaker. Without more detail, this is the best I can offer at the moment. Please let me know how you fare. Merry Christmas!
Thank you for the question. I believe I answered that question in the first minute of the video. You would install a rectifier diode as indicated. I made step-by-step instructions on installing a rectifier diode in the video on the 1033 transformer which should help you adjust to the slightly different arrangement of the KW. I hope this helps you.
I should have responded to you sooner! One can get replacement parts from many vendors, and at almost all train shows. If you are having trouble finding a good vendor, please email me and I will recommend a few. I have no financial relationships with any vendors.
Hello B.K. and thank you for your question. There are many after market vendors from whom you can obtain replacement parts. I do not have any relationships with them, so hesitate to endorse them. You can find them in ads in the Train Collectors Association quartely magazine, and online on the OGR Forum (ogrforum.ogaugerr.com) . You can obtain parts from vendors at train shows. You can also acquire distressed KW's from garage sales and scavenger them for parts, like I do. I tend to shy away from EBay because the price points are too high. If you still can't find parts after looking at these resources, message me again and I will give you a few names.
@@peterfenzel4742 That was also my question, Peter. Thank you so much for helping this 75 year old newbie. Your video is inspirational and very much appreciated.
Hi Peter, I have question on the kw that someone has already replaced the cord and circuit breaker on but only one side works. Have checked for loose or broken wire but see nothing out of place and the rollers look okay. Have you experienced this problem. Thanks for your help in advance. Rick
Hello Rick! If one side has power, then the power cord and circuit breaker are functioning. You have to determone the nature of the problem. (Please note that "looks okay" isn't a good way to find a problem): 1. Start with a multimeter and check the voltages on the U-A and U-B binding posts with the A and B throttles wide open. U-A powers the A throttle. U-B powers the B throttle. If you are not getting 6 to 20 volts on U-A or U-B your problem is inside the transformer. 2. UNPLUG THE TRANSFORMER! 3. Open the transformer 4. Resolder the ground wire from the core to the U post on the "B" side of the back plate. 5. Depending on which side is without power: if the A side, resolder the #3 wire from the A post on the back plate to the reversing spring connection point on the A side of the transformer; if the B side, resolder the #8 wire from the B post on the back plate to the reversing spring connection point on the B side of the transformer. Assuming your wiring is now good, put the case back on the transformer, plug it in and test the voltages again. If one side is still dead then the problem is probably with the roller arm assembly. 6. UNPLUG THE TRANSFORMER AGAIN 7. Clean the core where the rollers have left a graphite trail with some CRC or rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth. 8. Replace the rollers as shown in the video 9. Make sure both roller contact arms (the long metal things the rollers are pinned to) allow the rollers to contact the core firmly without hindrance. 10. Put the case back on, plug in the transformer and test the voltages again. The transformer should now have power on both sides. If you still have a problem, then resolder every wire and connecting point in the transformer to eliminate a cold joint issue. Please write back and let me know how things worked out. Kind regards, Peter
Hi Peter, thanks for the videos they are very clear and easy to understand. I have 2 of these guys that need to be gone through but unsure where I can get parts. Do you get them online at a website or what? I hope you dont mind sharing that with me, thank you
Hello, Anthony! There are many after market vendors from whom you can obtain replacement parts. I do not have any relationships with them, so hesitate to endorse them. You can find them in ads in the Train Collectors Association magazine, and online on the OGR Forum (ogrforum.ogaugerr.com) . You can obtain parts from vendors at train shows. You can also acquire distressed KW's from garage sales and scavenger them for parts, like I do. I tend to shy away from EBay because the price points are too high. If you still can't find parts after looking at these resources, message me again and I will give you a few names.
@@peterfenzel4742 Thanks for your reply, Peter. I've been repairing trains for years. And thanks to your 1033 video, I've rebuilt quite a few of those transformers as well as the RW. And I do get the same satisfaction as you do when I can make something work again. However, the ZWs and KWs intimidate the heck out of me. I once completely destroyed a ZW trying to reassemble all of the parts. I was thinking about buying a junked KW on ebay to see if I could do it. But it still intimidates me.
@@anthonyzagarino5196 I can agree with your perspective, Anthony, particularly With the ZW. The compartmentalization within the Bakelite case alone makes repairs far more complicated than they should be. The FISH paper used for insulation is a real pain; and a lot of the installations require three hands. The KW, on the other hand, merely requires you to go through a lot of small steps to make repairs. The only real problem for me with a KW is the tolerance for the transformer core within the bracketing. but where there is a will, there is a way, and eventually you can put it back into place. What I love about the KW is the elegance to accomplish so many functions with such simple technology within so compact a space.
Chemical Guys VRP MAKES A GREAT CLEANER POLISH. ive used it on Aurora slot cars.
Chemical Guys VRP WORKS GREAT ON SLOT CAR BODIES.
Thanks, Peter. Thinking of buying one now. Your videos are very helpful.
You’re very welcome, Robert. So glad you found them helpful.
Peter, thanks for the video. I was having an issue with my KW and when I disassembled the unit I discovered a wire with a broken solder joint. The video helped me identify where it needed to go. Unit is now functioning perfectly again.
Great job, Steve! I have received a few requests to do a vido on the wiring of a KW. That is in the works. Should have it up in a couple of weeks.
Thanks for the video!
I have one of these since the mid 50's. It has developed an issue. Anytime a load is applied, no matter how low, the Short Light comes on and brightens as more throttled is applied. Happens on both A and B. It has been working fine for 2 days after setting up for Christmas, then developed this with no warning.
It was serviced about 7 years ago.
Thanks for any Ideas.
Thank you for the comment, Eugene. Either you have a short or you do not. Check for shorts on the tracks and with the wiring. If all the wiring is in good shape, and you do not have a short circuit on your layout, then the problem would probably be with the circuit breaker. Replacing a circuit breaker is very easy. There are 3 wires: 1. the rectangular wire from the core to the breaker; 2. the lamp resistor wire that goes from the breaker to the lamp (wire #1 on the wiring schematic ); and 3. the black wire that goes back from the other post of the breaker to the C post.
You can use a replacement thermal breaker, the base of which you can attach to the underside of the operating platform with a silicone adhesive, or you can order an aftermarket replacement of the circuit breaker (part #20-22).
Please let me know the result. Merry Christmas!
Thank you Peter. The KW videos are very good. You made repairing these seem very feasible. I have 2 of these excellent transformers and I will not hesitate to take them apart when necessary thanks to your videos.
Hello, James! Thank you for the kind words. By all means invest your time and effort to keep the KW's in tip-top shape. If you hit some snags along the way, please give a shout.
I would really appreciate it if you would show a video on rebuilding the Lionel Type Z 250 Watt Transformer. In my personal opinion the type Z Transformer is superior to the ZW. You just can not find any information, or Videos on it. Very helpful video that I appreciate. Very informative. I really Love the Lionel Type Z. It is a super great Transformer. I have 3 ZW’s 3 Type Z’s and 3 Type V’s
@@67gt500snakebite I agree with you 100%. The Z is a great pre-war and post-war transformer, but was quickly eclipsed in the post war period by the ZW. I have not yet had the opportunity to tear apart a Z and restore it.
Very helpful!
Peter, Your video gave me the confidence to open my KW transformer. I didn't see anything unusual.
I tested the Xformer by taking just the power section of FastTrack and use the search light car to test the circuit. With car off the track the voltages at all posts were normal and both circuits voltages tracked with throttle position.
I placed the car on the track and got the short light. However, there was reduced voltage to the track, just enough power to give a dim light on the car.
I place a jumper around the breaker and the voltage came to normal, bright light on the car and the short light was off.
Does this indicate a bad breaker and why doesn't it kill all power when it indicates a short? Or is something else going on?
I looks like two heavy black wires on one breaker terminal with woven sheath that goes down (I couldn't see where}.
Thanks so much and Merry Christmas!
Thank you for the message, Michael. It usually takes several seconds for the circuit breaker to kick in on a KW. It sounds like your situation has an immediate rather than a delayed response. Let us eliminate the possibility that it is the spotlight car that is the source of the problem. Remove the spotlight car and put a load on the system by running a locomotive. If the locomotive runs without a problem, we should take a look at the spotlight car. If the current is shorted by running the locomotive, then the problem is within the transformer and replacing the circuit breaker would be a good idea. Always replace the wires attending the circuit breaker when making that change. Broken wires and faulty. Insulation can also be culprits. Please write back and let me know how things work out.
@@peterfenzel4742 You have been much help. It was the breaker. However, the one in your video is not available and no cross reference. I called Buss customer service, and they had no reference, I got one from an auto parts store for $5, but was for 10 amps, but works great. Thanks for saving me $$$.
Loved your videos! I changed the powercord, rollers, and rectifier disc as per your videos on my own KW!!. All works well. When i use the whistle lever on the B side it stops and reverses the locomotive. It did this before i even touched it. What do you think could be causing this?? Thanks in advance!
Thank you for the comment and for the question, Tony. The two reversing buttons on the top of the transformer should reverse the direction of the locomotive, not the whistle lever. The fact that the whistle lever is interrupting power to enable the unit within the locomotive to cycle into neutral, and then into the opposite direction suggests that your wires are crossed inside the transformer. Please go to my video on rewiring, a KW transformer to see where the wires are supposed to be and check whether your transformer conforms to that wiring arrangement. Another quick test would be to see whether turning the whistle lever adds another 5 volts to your power output. Use a multimeter to check whether, at full throttle, the 20 V increases to 25 V, when you turn the whistle lever on the A side and the B side. If the B side does not show the compensating voltage increase, then that will confirm that your wires need to be rearranged internally.
Please let me know how things result. Thanks a lot! Good luck.
Yes i am getting 20 volts on both A and B sides. 25 volts on the A side when the whistle lever is pushed. However when i use the B side whistle lever, it drops from 20 volts down to 0 then up to 25. when its pushed all the way. Very strange. I can live with it, i just wont be able to use the whistle on the B side. I wonder if its the actual lever thats bad? Either way i still enjoyed all your intructional videos! Keep em coming!! I love learning how to DYI!!
Hello Tony! The fact that the voltage drops to zero before it rises to 25v on the B side explains the reversing of the locomotive. From your description, it sounds like the B side loses contact and then regains contact at the extreme end of the turn. I would remover the operating platform and visually inspect the B side lever for consistent contact. Make sure there is no debris or grime impairing consistent contact. Take pictures along the way so you remember how to reassemble.
Next week i will have a chance to do as you suggest!! I'll let you know how it works out! Thank you Peter!!!
Peter thanks so much for giving me the advise! I was never able to really figure it out , i tried everything!!! So i purchased a new top platform and transfered all parts and wiring to the new operating platform, i even did a new diode since i had it all apart! Your videos gave me the confidence to attempt it!! Its working perfectly now! New cord, rollers, diode, circit breaker, operating platform, it should go for another 80 years! Thanks! 😊
Peter- Great video I am almost finished. I have a different (older) style circuit breaker. Before I finish assembly, how can I determine if it is working?
Thank you for the comment, ROBERT. You might as well go ahead and install your circuit breaker and then test it once it’s installed. The simple way is to create a short circuit by putting a screwdriver across the tracks and see whether the red light lights up, indicating that the circle breaker has done its job. You might also take notice of how much time passes between creating the short circuit and the break of the circuit. Assuming the circuit breaker responds appropriately within few moments, you are done. If not, you might consider a different breaker. Without more detail, this is the best I can offer at the moment. Please let me know how you fare. Merry Christmas!
What if you’re using a modern rectifier? Non disk type?
Thank you for the question. I believe I answered that question in the first minute of the video. You would install a rectifier diode as indicated. I made step-by-step instructions on installing a rectifier diode in the video on the 1033 transformer which should help you adjust to the slightly different arrangement of the KW.
I hope this helps you.
Where do you get update parts for kw any place you recommend?
I should have responded to you sooner! One can get replacement parts from many vendors, and at almost all train shows. If you are having trouble finding a good vendor, please email me and I will recommend a few. I have no financial relationships with any vendors.
@@peterfenzel4742 thank you
Where do you get update parts for kw any place you recommend
Hello B.K. and thank you for your question. There are many after market vendors from whom you can obtain replacement parts. I do not have any relationships with them, so hesitate to endorse them. You can find them in ads in the Train Collectors Association quartely magazine, and online on the OGR Forum (ogrforum.ogaugerr.com) . You can obtain parts from vendors at train shows. You can also acquire distressed KW's from garage sales and scavenger them for parts, like I do. I tend to shy away from EBay because the price points are too high. If you still can't find parts after looking at these resources, message me again and I will give you a few names.
@@peterfenzel4742 thanks
@@peterfenzel4742 That was also my question, Peter. Thank you so much for helping this 75 year old newbie. Your video is inspirational and very much appreciated.
Hi Peter, I have question on the kw that someone has already replaced the cord and circuit breaker on but only one side works. Have checked for loose or broken wire but see nothing out of place and the rollers look okay. Have you experienced this problem. Thanks for your help in advance. Rick
Hello Rick! If one side has power, then the power cord and circuit breaker are functioning. You have to determone the nature of the problem. (Please note that "looks okay" isn't a good way to find a problem):
1. Start with a multimeter and check the voltages on the U-A and U-B binding posts with the A and B throttles wide open. U-A powers the A throttle. U-B powers the B throttle. If you are not getting 6 to 20 volts on U-A or U-B your problem is inside the transformer.
2. UNPLUG THE TRANSFORMER!
3. Open the transformer
4. Resolder the ground wire from the core to the U post on the "B" side of the back plate.
5. Depending on which side is without power: if the A side, resolder the #3 wire from the A post on the back plate to the reversing spring connection point on the A side of the transformer; if the B side, resolder the #8 wire from the B post on the back plate to the reversing spring connection point on the B side of the transformer. Assuming your wiring is now good, put the case back on the transformer, plug it in and test the voltages again. If one side is still dead then the problem is probably with the roller arm assembly.
6. UNPLUG THE TRANSFORMER AGAIN
7. Clean the core where the rollers have left a graphite trail with some CRC or rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth.
8. Replace the rollers as shown in the video
9. Make sure both roller contact arms (the long metal things the rollers are pinned to) allow the rollers to contact the core firmly without hindrance.
10. Put the case back on, plug in the transformer and test the voltages again. The transformer should now have power on both sides.
If you still have a problem, then resolder every wire and connecting point in the transformer to eliminate a cold joint issue. Please write back and let me know how things worked out.
Kind regards,
Peter
Hi Peter, thanks for the videos they are very clear and easy to understand. I have 2 of these guys that need to be gone through but unsure where I can get parts. Do you get them online at a website or what? I hope you dont mind sharing that with me, thank you
Hello, Anthony! There are many after market vendors from whom you can obtain replacement parts. I do not have any relationships with them, so hesitate to endorse them. You can find them in ads in the Train Collectors Association magazine, and online on the OGR Forum (ogrforum.ogaugerr.com) . You can obtain parts from vendors at train shows. You can also acquire distressed KW's from garage sales and scavenger them for parts, like I do. I tend to shy away from EBay because the price points are too high. If you still can't find parts after looking at these resources, message me again and I will give you a few names.
@@peterfenzel4742 Alot of very good points, thank you very much for your input it is much appreciated.
I'm pretty good with DIY repairs, but this looks like a royal pain in the butt!
HA! Hello, Anthony! I find it relaxing, fun, and satisfying when units are restored successfully. If you don’t enjoy it, don’t do it.
@@peterfenzel4742 Thanks for your reply, Peter. I've been repairing trains for years. And thanks to your 1033 video, I've rebuilt quite a few of those transformers as well as the RW. And I do get the same satisfaction as you do when I can make something work again. However, the ZWs and KWs intimidate the heck out of me. I once completely destroyed a ZW trying to reassemble all of the parts. I was thinking about buying a junked KW on ebay to see if I could do it. But it still intimidates me.
@@anthonyzagarino5196 I can agree with your perspective, Anthony, particularly With the ZW. The compartmentalization within the Bakelite case alone makes repairs far more complicated than they should be. The FISH paper used for insulation is a real pain; and a lot of the installations require three hands. The KW, on the other hand, merely requires you to go through a lot of small steps to make repairs. The only real problem for me with a KW is the tolerance for the transformer core within the bracketing. but where there is a will, there is a way, and eventually you can put it back into place. What I love about the KW is the elegance to accomplish so many functions with such simple technology within so compact a space.