Hi! I came across your channel completely by accident, browsing through other creators. I would like to thank you very much for all your videos. I am starting to service my own motorcycle, and in the future I would like to do similar projects to yours. The knowledge you share is priceless for someone who wants to learn in this field, and you do it completely for free. Much respect for your work and good luck with your next projects. Best regards!
Yes, really bad grooves in the basket or hub can cause the discs to not want to slide apart. These were not any worse than normal on any of the parts. Thanks for your comment
Appreciated this episode very much. The fork wrenches you attached to the torque wrench, clever little tools, never seen them before. Were did you acquire them? Clutch: had a similar issue on a 93 KX125 we restored. There was a specific sequence the fiber disc had to be assembled. Only took me 3x"s to figure that out. Under close inspection, I found the special fiber disc that had to go on last, easy to miss. Check part #'s on RM to see if there is an odd ball.
Awesome, very good tip. I did check in the service manual but didn’t see anything about stacking orientation. The Tusk spoke torque wrench is available on eBay, Amazon, Rocky Mountain ATV, and many other retailers online
Another great video, thanks for all the great info, my son and I are woods racers and he is going to a 4T and watching your videos has helped us tremendously. Can’t wait for the Kwai build!
Not sure about this but could the actuating rod that pushes the pressure plate be a little worn so it doesn't move the pressure plate far enough and the clutch plates don't have enough separation between them and they end up dragging? Another great video!!!
Thank you for your comment. The 96 and a 97 use more of a pull style rather than a push rod which they incorporated in 1998 and up. This style makes it difficult to see what’s going on with the clutch when the lever is depressed because the clutch cover needs to be on for this to work properly.
Thanks for your suggestion. It is definitely there as I swapped all of that over to the new parts. If that thrust washer was not there, there would be a very distinct rubbing or grinding noise when the clutch is pulled
Would you be willing to Mara video on aftermarket carb replacement and the difference in jetting specs ie. QAparts shows 135 Main jet. OEM calls for 182 on stock carb. I afraid it will damage the engine Thanks for any info FYI I’m your local fire medic
There is no difference in jetting specs. The bike will need to be jetted for what is required given the ambient temperature and local altitude. This bike would not run on a 135 main jet. If you are at under 4000 feet and 50 to 70°F, use the stock jetting.
Definitely the best explanation on TH-cam for me on how to true a wheel 👍🏼
Thanks man. I feel like I probably should’ve gone a little bit more into depth, but I’m glad I was able to help you.
Hi! I came across your channel completely by accident, browsing through other creators. I would like to thank you very much for all your videos. I am starting to service my own motorcycle, and in the future I would like to do similar projects to yours. The knowledge you share is priceless for someone who wants to learn in this field, and you do it completely for free. Much respect for your work and good luck with your next projects. Best regards!
Thank you so much for your kind words and your support. The only reason I do it is for people like you.
I had a 2001 rm 125 I had to file down the clutch basket grooves seemed to help some
Yes, really bad grooves in the basket or hub can cause the discs to not want to slide apart. These were not any worse than normal on any of the parts. Thanks for your comment
Great video! A 1 hour video on trueing wheel would be handy. I did one once and took me 4 hours! Patience is very important!
It certainly helps dramatically to have this trueing stand
Time for shirts!!!
Yes, I know. Working on some designs.
wow yea the wheel spoke thing now makes sense ... thanks a lot man
Thank you
U make the work look easy an simple 😄
Thank you. Experience makes projects easier.
I had the same clutch problem on a rm250 , I ended up grinding a mm off the rod and it fixed it 😂
This bike utilizes a pull type actuator rather than a push rod.
Great video
Thank you
Appreciated this episode very much. The fork wrenches you attached to the torque wrench, clever little tools, never seen them before. Were did you acquire them? Clutch: had a similar issue on a 93 KX125 we restored. There was a specific sequence the fiber disc had to be assembled. Only took me 3x"s to figure that out. Under close inspection, I found the special fiber disc that had to go on last, easy to miss. Check part #'s on RM to see if there is an odd ball.
Awesome, very good tip. I did check in the service manual but didn’t see anything about stacking orientation. The Tusk spoke torque wrench is available on eBay, Amazon, Rocky Mountain ATV, and many other retailers online
Another great video, thanks for all the great info, my son and I are woods racers and he is going to a 4T and watching your videos has helped us tremendously. Can’t wait for the Kwai build!
Thank you for your continued support.
Not sure about this but could the actuating rod that pushes the pressure plate be a little worn so it doesn't move the pressure plate far enough and the clutch plates don't have enough separation between them and they end up dragging? Another great video!!!
Thank you for your comment. The 96 and a 97 use more of a pull style rather than a push rod which they incorporated in 1998 and up. This style makes it difficult to see what’s going on with the clutch when the lever is depressed because the clutch cover needs to be on for this to work properly.
@@restoroosterohvthe 2003 Yamaha is similar and it has a thrust washer between the pull rod and pressure plate. Might be missing?
Thanks for your suggestion. It is definitely there as I swapped all of that over to the new parts. If that thrust washer was not there, there would be a very distinct rubbing or grinding noise when the clutch is pulled
Would you be willing to Mara video on aftermarket carb replacement and the difference in jetting specs ie. QAparts shows 135 Main jet. OEM calls for 182 on stock carb. I afraid it will damage the engine
Thanks for any info
FYI I’m your local fire medic
There is no difference in jetting specs. The bike will need to be jetted for what is required given the ambient temperature and local altitude. This bike would not run on a 135 main jet. If you are at under 4000 feet and 50 to 70°F, use the stock jetting.
What brand tire stand/bead breaker is that
Harbor freight. I have an entire review video on it.
That notched up basket is your problem
Thank you, I’ve used 2 different baskets with no change.