What Happened To The Comancheep?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ธ.ค. 2019
- What Ever Happened to the Comancheep? In this video let's find out!
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I like the calm, patient way you approach the whole thing, driving, building, breaking, it's instructive!
The cab is stiff with the cage, the front bumper is stiff, and you have a noodle of a unibody between them. Get some tube on there even if it's under the fenders
Good point. It has a 6.0 shaking the noodles.
I don't think ha did frame stiffeners he only needs to get or fab a nice set of unibody frame stiffeners then he'd be good, now putting some tube to a set of welded stiffeners and under the fenders would be beef then. I have them on my 98 XJ front to back even picked up front pillar and rear pillar tie in pieces so its technically boxed out can't believe how much of a difference it made no more stuck doors or popping spot welds in that things future my other 7 I had before can't say the same plus hitting speed bumps or pot holes now feels like a totally different rig.
@@SarahSmith-hd8kd unibody stiffeners do not equal to having a tube chassis especially when you cut a whole bunch of inner fender out. If I recall right he has stiffeners anyways
@@krisbarnard1684 oh I didn't know he did stiffener. Ya mean I know stiffener doesn't equivalent to a tube chassis but also a tube chassis doesn't equivalent to a chassis anyway how would you take the unibody completely out of the equation anyway I mean the unibody is rolled and seemed into the whole rig right or no? I'm trying to do that in my head, what maybe bend cut roll and weld tubes through the unibody or what do you mean exactly cause any way I could think of would be so much work I couldn't imagine there would be anything left of the stock body to speak of? I know there's not much left of anything stock to speak of anyway.
He cut out a pretty big chunk of the unibody rails to fit the motor. Not sure if the reinforcement plate really added the strength back into it.
With all the of the stuff you have to do up front, especially if you end up having to pull the motor to fix the exhaust leak, you should just 3 link it. You could stiffen your frame up, and the thing would perform night and day better...let’s see the Comanches full potential... it’s earned it’s coined “cheep” title, show it some love and that rig will be unstoppable
Agreed...if he wants to keep it cheap run coils up front....super cheap
I love that you're showing design flaws!!! People are usual too afraid to admit they did something wrong lol
Thanks for updating us Matt! Good to know it's still alive and (maybe not so) well
Relocate the entire cooling system to the back.
Yeah the rad is loosing all its heat in the engine bay so if you have a tiny space it will get hot, if you completly move your radiator to the back it will bring all the engine heat out of the engine bay... solving the heat issue
I'd really like more info on those slider boxes. Seams like a solid idea that just needed some fine tuning.
I agree with your opinion of tubing being needed between the A pillar and the front end. The Mj/Xj was designed to have all the suspension forces applied behind the firewall with the factory 4 link. Leaf springs up front really change the way the force is applied to the chassis
Youre a master of your domain Matt. The knowledge you have and the vision to see these projects through, not too bad bud!
For the aux radiator, move the fuel cell over toward the passenger side (which will balance the weight of the driver anyway) and put the radiator/fan combo on the back of the cab behind the drivers seat.
Put you whole cooling system in the back like a trophy truck style, better airflow and waaaay less heat in the engine bay
Kylan Cook I second this
@@ForOdin i agree
I agree. Right between the exo frame that is like a light bar on a truck would be perfect to put the whole system there.
Run one along the bottom of the fender IF you do run it up towards the hood, it'll help a little but not run your lines bud
Think the exhaust leaking into the engine bay might be whats heating it up?
that's definitely contributing
Finally some cool build content. Engine bay heat can be dissipated by a good spal fan on hood maybe undersode pushing out a vent hole or outside pulling . keep up the good work looking forward to the fix vids
Good on you man, I love your reaction to the video game and the model car recreation of your rig. So many other people would of gotten mad and gone after them for using your “intellectual property”.
I feel like I'm watching Mr. Rogers's garage! I keep waiting for him to ask if we will be his neighbor.
I think the window broke because the frame twisted. The jeep looked like it was pretty tweaked on that climb. I think do whatever is needed to make it stable and I also downloaded the jeep on spintires. Its badass in life and badass in the game. Keep the videos coming man and be safe
Merry Christmas Matt and blessed New year to you and your family!!
Nice "up to speed" within comancheep Matt.
Happy New Year and all the best in 2020
Please make that video of putting the 97+ window in the older doors, I've been meaning to do this to my xj and my newly required mj, just haven't had the time yet
I really enjoy the channel, entertaining and highly educational. Thank you
Matt I know it's a lot of work but if you linked the front you would increase the reliability. Also it would give you the opportunity to create an engine cage and remove all the flex and create more heat evacuation. I ran an cooling fan on the underside of my hood that would pull the engine bay heat out. Made a huge difference.
I'd definitely like to see a video on the 97+ window mod. There is a company called jet-hot performance in Oklahoma that does ceramic coatings on headers. It cuts down a lot of heat from the engine bay. I had them do my banks header on my 4.7 stroker XJ build and at running temp the header measures around 190 at the flange. It definitely helped.
matt what i did on my project XJ was cut vents into the fenders for the heat to escape we did the same on my dads wrangler project, major drop in underhood temps, put the vents up near the cowl just out front of the fire wall, i think mine are about 3 inches from the firewall to the edge of the vent and i used aluminum flashing to keep rocks and water from splashing up into the vent from the tires, love this build man, its awesome, glad to see the things that can be done with these older rigs, and you definitely put the Built not bought principal into practice
AWESOME! thanks for the discount code for Adam's! Got my shafts from James for my 1ton tj and i can't say enough good things about him and his products! His team has the right stuff and i highly recommend them to all the Bj fans! I live down the street from his shop and i keep my jeep right down the road from where you live matt! Ill always get my shafts from him even though im in your neck of the woods!
As always i love your videos and look forward to them! Be safe out there!
As always love the content!
Hey Matt what happened to the comancheep ??????
So ready to finally see some good ole fashioned bleeping Jeep videos of actually working on stuff and not just wheeling
Wow, you have a lot of work to do. Looking forward to the videos as you make fixes and refinements. Is there room to mount some fans under the hood scoop? I am thinking of all the cooling tricks used to keep a gaming computer case cool.
Matt I know you don't want to pull the motor but header wrap would make a big difference to eliminate heat under the hood and you can fix that exhaust leak which as you know is just gonna get worse. I drag raced for years and got tired of all the heat under the hood trying to check plugs between rounds so decided to try header wrap and wow I never would have believed the difference it made ! Also more louvers in the hood would help .
@bleepinjeep I’m sitting here at home on Christmas morning watching the marathon of Die Hard and can’t help but notice how much you resemble Hans Gruber the terrorist played by Alan Rickman. Merry Christmas, keep up the great content!
I was wondering where it was too.glad to see it's not abandoned.great videos
A lot of people are suggesting relocating the rad to the rear and that’s a great idea but If you want to solve your overheat issue cheaply, just grab a few electric cooling fans from the wreckers and mount them on the hood. I’d try that first.
For cooling you need to modify/change your grill for more air flow. Same with your hood, remove the scoops and remove all that metal inside the hood brace and replace with mesh or expanded metal, mesh preferred.
One thing you could try to fix the hot engine bay problem is the spacers on the hood hinges trick, it lifts up the hood on the back so hot air gets out, idk how that'd work with your external cage tho, but it's worth a try, simple and clean.
Love it, good looking out with the discount
When you hit the spring mount you flexed the unibody, the video where the windshield cracked is probably from the additional stress on the cab after the frame twisted/flexed from that hard impact on the spring perch.
I agree with others, move the entire radiator/cooling system to the back. Then put a couple pusher fans in the grill to pull the hot air out.
Or go stupid and just cut a big hole in the hood and put a fan on top of it and use that to pull the heat out from the engine bay
i was just about to say this exact thing.
Yay excited to see some original BleepinJeep wrenching
1. Box the back side of the spring mount and gusset the inner front (to maintain your "W")
2. Fix the exhaust leak. Instead of pulling the motor, can you disconnect all the stuff on the fenders and remove them to work on it? Not sure how tied in to everything you made them. While at it, wrap those headers. If you still have heat issues after that, then I agree with everyone else, move the entire cooling system to the back and install pusher fans to blow air out the grille. Last resort, a gaudy big ass hood cowl. Replace the inner fenders with expanded grating.
3. Run tube from the slider to the front bumper under the fender lip, those drop hits that bent the spring mount and front crossmember likely also bent your un where it was clearanced for the exhaust, which then allowed the windshield frame to pop the glass.
I like the door glass upgrade, wish I could do it to my CJ7, lol.
Glad I watched this one, I’m almost ready to get my wontons under my tj and measure for driveshafts. That discount code is beast. ✊🏼 killer deal.
Loved how many didn't realize that was the CJ upside-down in the fake news post.
Matt have you wrapped the exhaust pipe with heat tape? I would wrap from as close as you can get to the manifolds until it goes out of the engine bay a foot or two. I had the same problem on my XJ crawler with the stock 4.0. As you know the exhaust pipe goes down right next to the oil pan heating the oil. After I wrapped the pipe I noticed a significant decrease in oil temperature.
great video thanks for the update
Thanks Matt, can't wait 😊
Probably figured it out by now, but the right frame rail is bent upward about 1/2”. That buckeled the rad support & twisted can enough to break the window. The shot the right front spring mount took is what did all the damage. You NEED an engine cage! Something that’ll take loads vertically & diagonally. You’re relying on the engine alone to handle all that and it didn’t
Bleeping Jeep is the best, your content is legit
I was just about to make an order on adams for two driveshafts for over 640$ but thankfully I watched this video, the coupon code saved me 130$! That really saved my behind, thank you so much
Are u guys running dry sump systems for all those verticle climbs? And if so we're do u git them??
Massive body flex when you bent the perch you can see whole cage move
yeah that good eye, if u play it at .25 speed its pretty noticeable, the whole cage shifts downward on that slam
Unibody design will always crack a windshield due to they are epoxied to the windshield frame which doesn't allow for much body movement between the glass. Just replace it and hope it won't happen again. You can find seconds or not perfect windshields for $100 brand new at glass shops.
@@Garth2011 plexiglass is better he should put it in
11:17 1 amp server fans *they have a strong efficiency* also the cost is light .. Just remember to reduce it with a step down module 12volts or less (use your multimeter but adding 8 of these or even just 1 would make a big difference and you could add thermal CPU paste *it's pretty good actually* )
Do an exhaust wrap and/or heat shield on the headers
do you think some of your under hood heat problems could be due to the exhaust leak? also do you think some insulating wrap on the headers may also help?
You Sir are Awesome!
So much talent and so
very skilled! Please be
safe! And may God
Bless You and Your Family!
🙏
been watching bleepin jeep for a few years now matt ... my name is matt also bout to start building my own rig soon. 94 zj
Totally agree rad in the back on top not betwixed but..... you don’t have enough fan on that radiator your shroud looks too close to the rad to flow efficiently nice job on the build!
Your exoskeleton could be redistributing forces that the factory glass frame didn’t plan for ?
It’s a miracle your doors even open ! Lol 😂
All frames torque twist and no doubt this insane kinda activity has done that to that light frame member. My 87 Metric Ton pioneer has additional frame OEM
A silly question , after you installed the fans did you check if they was pulling or pushing air ? I only ask because at 18:26 in the video it seems to be blowing steam out the front of the grill? If them 3 big fans was pulling air in wouldn’t you expect the steam to blow out the hood vent and from under the wheel arches?
Matt: since most of your driving is slow, try reversing your fans blowing out the front of the radiator instead of taking that hot air and adding to your engine compartment. I came up with this idea because I run heavy equipment, and the fans always blow outward from the engine compartment, just a thought!
I've wanted to do the window upgrade but don't know what is needed
Love my Adams driveshafts and bleep20 makes them unbeatable
How did you mount that York to the ls motor? I got a 5.3 in my XJ and would like on-board air
Now we know - leaf springs in front and coils in back!? First backwards build I've seen, but I assume it was a cost / reuse issue and now a skewed bracket issue. Have you considered bracing across the back or in the middle between the supports to maintain your astatic? Gusset plates aligning with this brace would certainly assist the assembly's stability //;- )
I’m glad I’m not the only one with Jeep problems 😂. My ‘88 MJ is having issues too
Exaust leak can be pushing hot air directly into engine bay
Matt, For cooling there are 12v 3" In-Line air blower for boats (3"x5") that move 135cfm, you could mount them to blow air out of your fender or mount ducts under the head lights and pull in fresh air to anywhere you want. I was going to use them to cool the rear brakes on a race car before I had to give it up.
Thanks for the shout out, one of my fav builds still. I can add those bed sides to my version. Maybe I will. @bleepinjeep
🎉Happy New Year to you all at Bleeping jeep 🥂🍾🍻🎉 all the best for 2020👍
Does the comancheap have your iconic burrito cooker? Would also love to see your updates to the comancheap as you go! Good content AND we get to see the shenanigans you and JEROME BLEEPIN ROSE get into! 😂
You could try adding some spacers between the hood and hinges to create a gap close to the windshield that allows hot air to escape. Cheap and easy. If you don’t like it it’s easy to return to stock.
For the under-hood temps, just needs more venting.... go for a 60s era big block drag scoop on the hood.. better yet, make it a shaker scoop.... YEA BABY!
What engine are u running. I'm OEM 4.0 L 6. And I need cooling solution. Dandahermit
Matt, do you think small electric fans in those 4 circular holes in your front fender wells could draw hot air out of your engine bay? You can set them to turn on with coolant temp or manually. Possible pushing the air outward that way it doesn't spray debris into your bay, and draws the cool air in from the front of the fender wells and/or the hood louver?
I would really want you to make a video on how to put a 97’+ window.
Great vid
Matt. Cut the rain gutter on the firewall. Might be able to get a pusher fan to vent in front of your windshield. Just reinforce the hole you cut as that area is like a transom for the cab/uni-body.
is the engine bay heat just at low speeds or all time? for lower speeds you could look at wiring up fan switches to have them push air when youre wheeling at a stand still and flip to pull air when youre getting some speed
I have the Comancheep in Mudrunner, friend of mine built it. It's dope.
plate your spring perches with cut up wrenches they are nice and strong welded on and looks pretty cool
Stay positive Matt! In my case, bigger/better fans always help. But you seem to have that covered already, try putting a 1/16" hole in your thermostat. That seemed to help my 5.2, and my buddy owns a truck shop and he does it on all of his trucks regardless of their purpose/powertrain.
As for the flex, I kept destroying steering boxes, and most recently, I think caused by my unibody, the bolts for my steering box blew thru the threads of my gearbox! Steering box brace, beefier crossmember, and putting as much crossmember type pieces from one rail to the other is my opinion. My ZJ front end was pretty chaotic, so the brace is all I've done for front stiffening, as well as bumper fab, which you have. Rear bumper fab utilizing the old hitch area for me was the biggest canvas I found for frame "upgrading."
The biggest issue lots of us have, and I believe especially you, is space. Also, you plan your build, and a certain issue you didn't foresee pops up and then you have to try and work it into your build plan, when your budget and/or available space on your jeep, has already been taken up by previous upgrades. I'll try to look through your videos to find current images of your underside. I know turning the crossmember into a beefy x shape seems to be popular for the 40s and up unibody community. I'm sure you knowledge, as well as this incredible communities knowledge will be able to shed some light on this. You've helped so many of us, I'm sure we can repay the favor! Good luck!
The comancheep is gorgeous as she is, but of course bigger vents and cage work would seem to be a good direction as well.
Been a while since I watched this channel, haven’t watched much since I left for boot camp a little over a year ago, I forgot how great this guy is!
On the heat removal I'm thinking of graphing a cowl induction scoop into my Cherokee hood and using an electric fan to exhaust heat from the engine bay. I haven't done it yet. but I think it will move a lot of air. Enjoyed the video. Thanks
Were you cut the frame on the duck butt were the headers are do you have room to brace it from the front of the rock sliders with 1 1/2 buy 2 1/2 tubing running from slider across to the frame then run to the front
This video brought me back to this channel.
Love this channel also Verses
I have a stock 2005 jeep wrangler that has gone into safe mode ( 0700 code. Have you experienced anything like this if so what did you do about it? Is there someone you can recommend to reprogram the ECM,ECU? I'm in Michigan Thank You
Hey Matt for that hoop to the front bumper you can try building a tube fender and cover it with a few pieces of sheet metal
I think you need more gussets on everything. Add the rest of the exo-cage and more tie ins. That should help stiffen things up. Also, is there any way to add a fan to the under side of the hood vent for more circulation?
In my old dirt track days we put a second radiator on top where the cool air is . Just a ideal
Awesome tip on the shackle sliders.
Your exhaust leak is part of your heating problem cowl hood w/fan &add fan in back if you go mudding . If you have open headers extend pipe farther away from eng compartment & leave fender well alone
Add hood hinge spacers. I have a mild 4.8 in my xj. I used an ebay 3 row rad for an xj. It was fine until weather hit 100. Added hood spacers and it will not overheat even idling in heavy traffic when 100+ degrees out.
My exhaust guy said a lot of the headers on 4.0 I6's go bad, down towards the middle bottom where it kind of squishes into one. I hope it's just the missing bolt and not a cracked weld. good luck! I hated pulling the headers off!
Get a gigantic oil cooler and run it out back. Only so much you can do with coolant, but coolant and oil cooling will help tremendously. Oil temperature can get as high as 300°F+. If you can drop 100°F, it will help not only an overheating situation, it will also allow your cooling system to run more efficiently. Only so much you can do with airflow, especially if you are constantly moving at low speed.
Hey Matt! I want to know what kind of hood vents are on the Comanche? Thanks man!
Cut fender wells out and replace the fender wells with expanded metal. That way you got air flow and still have somewhere to mount your stuff that already has a home. Then try a cowl hood.
You should make spacers for your hood to body mounts. I did that for both of my 4.7 v8 Wj's. Like you, my engine doesn't really get hot. It is just to vent excess heat. I took the idea from when I used to own type1 VW's. We used decklid spacers to allow more air into the engine bay for the carbs and for the fan to cool the motor.
I have Mudrunner (and Snowrunner), will look for your mod at the weekend.
Will be checking on here to see if you have done any mods to the Comancheep.
What engine are u running? I really appreciate your lengthy explination. Useful sharing.Dandahermit.
More ventilation in the hood. Like 400% more. A shock hoop with one or two gussets should stiffen up the frame. And the bent shackle should have some gussets. The plate idea you had was more than sufficient.
I would say take out the inner fender wells and replace it with expanded steel. This way he will get more air flow from the sides and he will still have fasten points for everything else.