As it comes to Z-axis sync - there is a couple of handy methods: from buying and mounting a "z-axis sync-set" which is a simple belt with two pulleys mounted on top of these lead screws to state-of-the-art, all metal, custom "single stepper motor on z-axis" mod (as single stepper driver drives them - so there is no difference in overall from this point of view).
hey joe i wanted to say thanks again for sharing the config i still am in safety mode with the off switch close and when the bl touch is triggered the bed continues up any ideas?
looks good Joe I just finished my voron 2.4 300x300 I also have a x5sa pro I added a 3rd Z stepper and swapped the linear guides rods to just 2x 20mm rods with a 3d printed spherical mounts so the bed and tilit without binding got the idea from heim joints aka rod ends. with real gates belts and proper idlers and stepper mount, 24v psu dragon hotend it prints all day at 200mm/s I have enough printers to start a farm around my place. it is a good tweaking platform for sure stock it sucks I'm also running the same board but early release v1 it has a small bug but for my setup is uneffected.. I did a pull test on the junk belts on most 3d printers vs real gates belts it's much bigger than people think especially rebound (how springy) it was more than 20x better this is what causes ringing in prints also your at a good spot to add an imu and do some tuning as a side note I edit my profile so outerwalls are 50% infill speed all else is the same as infill and I use cubic infill. and I do a nozzle flow test to find the limit of the hotend and use that to set speed example matterhackers pro pla black I print at 245c on a 65c pet + gstick bed at 240mm/s infill 120mm/s outside walls at 0.25mm layers (my z are belt drive) with 0.1mm z hop. my tmc2209 have custom heatpipe cooler and are maxing out my x y motors 1.25A my accelerations are tuned at that print speed and current. like this I can print a a sub 10min flawless benchy.. currently building a 45deg belt printer, and next is a scara based design I have on my mind
I'm a noob when it comes to custom high speed 3d printers but it sounds like you need TMC5160 HV drivers and an octopus pro to run at 48v if you are at the limits of a TMC2209. AWD would help too I think, then you would have 4x the power and 1/2x the effective belt length. What mount design did you use for your kinematic bed? Thingiverse links?
@@JoeMalovich I will email you but mount is my own style the entire bed assembly has been changed it's a free floating bed system the 20mm rod bearings are mounted in a sphere 58mm in diameter and a 2pc clamp I made with 2 40mm rings made from 4mm od ptfe bowden tube clamp the sphere with 3x 3lbs die springs as for z movement I'm using geared stepper from stepper on line with 40 tooth pully and idlers the belts just clamp to the bed framethe rear center stepper FB tilt LR steppers manage left and right tilt the linear guides are aligned with Y0 so y0 is maintained even at high tilit
I have a x5sa as well that I am in the middle of upgrades, so far I have a closed loop steppers on my X and Y, connected to a btt octopus pro. A fulament flex plate on the bed, as well as silicone bushing instead of springs for the bed. The hotend is a revo micro connected to a direct drive , I have linear rails for x and Y but not installed yet. And waiting on ebb 42 board so I will only have 2 wires in the cable chain, and I am running klipper as well
What direct drive are you using? Screen/interface? What linear rail mounts are you going to use? I wish a company offered an x5sa type machine that didn't require all these mods to be usable. The new Bambu Carbon is the closest we get. Thoughts on a reverse Bowden in a cable sleeve with your CANBUS wires and doing away with the cable chain?
@@JoeMalovich im having issues if someone could help before i didnt have a printer.cfg i used the example file and flashed my octopus1.1 then i found your cfg file and pasted over my example one and saved does the board need to be flashed again or is the printer,cfg change going to be all i need just not sure if the printer.cfg needed to be different than the git example file before flashing klipper to it. might be making it more complicated than it is
@@mikealnutt360 no need to reflash, just edit the config file and restart Klipper When you flashed the octopus it's like installing an operating system.
@@JoeMalovich much obliged I did that and it seems to be ready to be wired up to my printer don't have anything plugged into it so it just gave me the add out of range error. Also I have the z sync setup I was gonna try the setup you have with z tilt but if I later decided to revert back do I just comment out the section about z tilit
i see youre trying out the octo.... been eyeing upgrading my btt skr2 to the octo on my dual extruder machine to dual z autolevel like my prototype machine instead of having to manually tram the dang thing. any problems with it? it looks pretty nice...and can run the same TMC silentstep drivers ive been using...so they say. i love the outer cage style moving gantry machines like youve got there... theyre so accurate when tightened up and you can really get em flying compared to the moving bed machines.
Only 2 gotchas so far, the 4th stepper plug is not motor 3, it's motor 2 duplicated. (Motors start numbering at 0) so dual INDEPENDANT z requires you skip the 4th plug. My tronxy fans were wired backwards too.
Hey Joe, I just bought Tronxy's VEHO 600 which seems to just be an upgraded version of the X5SA series. The board popped as soon as i plugged it in, but after reaching out to Tronxy, they are saying it may be over a month before i can get a replacement board. Sucks, especially for a brand new $1500 printer to have an immediate quality issue. I was debating on getting a SKR 3 or an Octopus board to replace the crappy stock tronxy board. Any recommendations between the SKR 3 or the Octopus? And also how difficult is it to get Klipper set up for this?
Definately get the octopus so you can run dual independent z and automatic Z_TILT_ADJUST Klipper is extremely popular and common, help is available on the internet. If you have used putty, flashed firmware from a USB, and messed around with config files then it shouldn't be too difficult. You will also need to find a raspberry pi which are either hard to get or have scalper prices on amazon. (there are alternatives)
@@JoeMalovich Thanks, Which octopus do you recommend? I am seeing a few different versions. I am guessing the dual independent Z / auto tilt adjust you are referring to allows the controller to compensate for 2 Z motors, whereas a regular board is using the same drive signal for 2 motors so they cant be jogged independently? Sorry im new to the printer world so i am delving in and trying to learn more. Appreciate the insight!
@@janus5890 I can't tell you which Octopus to buy, when I bought mine there was only one option. You need a minimum of 5 drivers on your controller for dual independent Z. With the stock setup both motors are sent the same signal. After it is homed and adjusted, if it powers off one of the motors can drift due to gravity pulling down on the bed. Google x5sa bed tilt, there are many mechanical solutions to keep them synchronized if you really dont want to go with dual Z. Mechanical dual Z, and a SKR Mini E3 V3 would be the cheapest solution though, it has the 4 drivers integrated so you don't need to buy them extra.
I don't get why 3D printer owners need to make these changes? I'm only looking at this because I am so frustrated with my TronXY X5SA. If companies just built a machine to work properly out of the box, we wouldn't even need to go through this bs. However, I am very thankful to this and other TH-cam creators for sharing their solutions and experiences.
As they say you get what you pay for. For $200 or less you won't get many bells and whistles. That said there are 3d printers out there now that you don't have to do much, but you pay a higher price for the convenience. I just bought a Ender 5 S1 on sale and it just works. There are also some of the newer bed slingers that work well. That was not always the case though and it has taken quite a few years to get to this point.
believe it or not, some of us actually enjoy doing these upgrades and are quite happy to buy lower cost printers as the base for the projects. I am currently working on my X5SA but never modified my Prusa printer, the only original wires left on my Ender 3 are the bed heater and temperature probe…
Ya know...i wonder.... if i cover the entire work surface with blue painters tape, and put one of my old extruders in place of the spindle.... i wonder if i can print a gokart on my 5'/9' CNC....lol. might be a fun project
Iv'e bought the board and a pi I opened the electronics box and see it has a big flat cable that plugs in the midle of the board' The big tree octopus doesnt have a place to connect that flat cable could you tell me what you did to resolve that issue. Thankyou
I ripped out that board and ribbon cable and wired everything direct. Some wires needed extended. Some stepper wires I bought longer ones and had to switch around some wires in the plugs to match the stepper/octopus requirements. Your mileage may vary. It's really not a TRONXY anymore except in frame only.
first of all, great video thanks for that. I'm currently building a vz bot from the tronxy x5sa Pro 330. The BTT octopus should also go in there and the whole thing should then run with the BTT PI and klipper. would you be so kind as to send me the source code of your firmware. that would be really great...
For others, it is impossible to upgrade for this Tronzy. I have two I would like to fix with a video of details not seen here. Without a detailed video knowledge of every bit how you did this 10 videos is not enough. I like how people praise their printers and not tell little bit of detail how they possibly got this to work. For others is impossible. please post much much more detail. Without a detailed video knowledge of every bit how you did this 10 videos is not enough. Please post much much more detail.
What specifically do you need to know? I would say if you can't infer the steps required then maybe these mods aren't for you, but that's not the spirit of TH-cam. I do kinda frame my videos for a viewer of similar aptitude as myself but I don't know what others don't know, ya know?
Nice printer tell me a very detail how you did it. Parts.. good working firmware all detail.In that’s what we all would like to know.. Please please do it all right!!!! make a video that will work for everyone for This Tronzy. That way we can all have a sports car. Not just a pretty show it, in this video. Take the disappointment mystery out proper Upgrades of Tronxy made out from the box. 😢 please help us all!!!
@@JoeMalovich thanks gives me a heads up for helping someone other side of world - i'm nozzled on youtube BTW - I run a fysetc spder v1.1 on a x5sa pro - soon to be a VzBot
This is one worthless printer. I received one and it does nothing. I have contacted the company but they refuse to help me. I may report them to the US government so they can never sell in the US again.
As it comes to Z-axis sync - there is a couple of handy methods: from buying and mounting a "z-axis sync-set" which is a simple belt with two pulleys mounted on top of these lead screws to state-of-the-art, all metal, custom "single stepper motor on z-axis" mod (as single stepper driver drives them - so there is no difference in overall from this point of view).
hey joe i wanted to say thanks again for sharing the config i still am in safety mode with the off switch close and when the bl touch is triggered the bed continues up any ideas?
thank you very much!!!
looks good Joe I just finished my voron 2.4 300x300 I also have a x5sa pro I added a 3rd Z stepper and swapped the linear guides rods to just 2x 20mm rods with a 3d printed spherical mounts so the bed and tilit without binding got the idea from heim joints aka rod ends.
with real gates belts and proper idlers and stepper mount, 24v psu dragon hotend it prints all day at 200mm/s I have enough printers to start a farm around my place.
it is a good tweaking platform for sure stock it sucks I'm also running the same board but early release v1 it has a small bug but for my setup is uneffected..
I did a pull test on the junk belts on most 3d printers vs real gates belts it's much bigger than people think especially rebound (how springy) it was more than 20x better this is what causes ringing in prints also your at a good spot to add an imu and do some tuning as a side note I edit my profile so outerwalls are 50% infill speed all else is the same as infill and I use cubic infill. and I do a nozzle flow test to find the limit of the hotend and use that to set speed example
matterhackers pro pla black I print at 245c on a 65c pet + gstick bed at 240mm/s infill 120mm/s outside walls at 0.25mm layers (my z are belt drive) with 0.1mm z hop. my tmc2209 have custom heatpipe cooler and are maxing out my x y motors 1.25A my accelerations are tuned at that print speed and current. like this I can print a a sub 10min flawless benchy.. currently building a 45deg belt printer, and next is a scara based design I have on my mind
I'm a noob when it comes to custom high speed 3d printers but it sounds like you need TMC5160 HV drivers and an octopus pro to run at 48v if you are at the limits of a TMC2209. AWD would help too I think, then you would have 4x the power and 1/2x the effective belt length.
What mount design did you use for your kinematic bed? Thingiverse links?
@@JoeMalovich I will email you but mount is my own style the entire bed assembly has been changed it's a free floating bed system the 20mm rod bearings are mounted in a sphere 58mm in diameter and a 2pc clamp I made with 2 40mm rings made from 4mm od ptfe bowden tube clamp the sphere with 3x 3lbs die springs as for z movement I'm using geared stepper from stepper on line with 40 tooth pully and idlers the belts just clamp to the bed framethe rear center stepper FB tilt LR steppers manage left and right tilt the linear guides are aligned with Y0 so y0 is maintained even at high tilit
I have a x5sa as well that I am in the middle of upgrades, so far I have a closed loop steppers on my X and Y, connected to a btt octopus pro. A fulament flex plate on the bed, as well as silicone bushing instead of springs for the bed. The hotend is a revo micro connected to a direct drive , I have linear rails for x and Y but not installed yet. And waiting on ebb 42 board so I will only have 2 wires in the cable chain, and I am running klipper as well
What direct drive are you using? Screen/interface? What linear rail mounts are you going to use?
I wish a company offered an x5sa type machine that didn't require all these mods to be usable. The new Bambu Carbon is the closest we get.
Thoughts on a reverse Bowden in a cable sleeve with your CANBUS wires and doing away with the cable chain?
Good project.
Bro Thank you so much for sharing your cfg file, you would not believe how much you have saved me here, I really appreciate this 🙏
You're welcome. Still having problems with anything I might be able to help with?
@@JoeMalovich im having issues if someone could help before i didnt have a printer.cfg i used the example file and flashed my octopus1.1 then i found your cfg file and pasted over my example one and saved does the board need to be flashed again or is the printer,cfg change going to be all i need just not sure if the printer.cfg needed to be different than the git example file before flashing klipper to it. might be making it more complicated than it is
@@mikealnutt360 no need to reflash, just edit the config file and restart Klipper
When you flashed the octopus it's like installing an operating system.
@@JoeMalovich much obliged I did that and it seems to be ready to be wired up to my printer don't have anything plugged into it so it just gave me the add out of range error. Also I have the z sync setup I was gonna try the setup you have with z tilt but if I later decided to revert back do I just comment out the section about z tilit
@@mikealnutt360 attach a hot end thermocouple to let it be fully enabled. It doesn't like not knowing the hot end temp.
i see youre trying out the octo.... been eyeing upgrading my btt skr2 to the octo on my dual extruder machine to dual z autolevel like my prototype machine instead of having to manually tram the dang thing. any problems with it? it looks pretty nice...and can run the same TMC silentstep drivers ive been using...so they say.
i love the outer cage style moving gantry machines like youve got there... theyre so accurate when tightened up and you can really get em flying compared to the moving bed machines.
Only 2 gotchas so far, the 4th stepper plug is not motor 3, it's motor 2 duplicated. (Motors start numbering at 0) so dual INDEPENDANT z requires you skip the 4th plug.
My tronxy fans were wired backwards too.
I just got a Snap Maker 3.0 and it is a 3 in 1 3-D printer and it pretty cool and it can become a lazer or a caver .
Those do look like slick machines. I already have a 25"x25" cnc router, and I've been wanting a 100w CO2 laser for a while now.
Hi, I’m just following your upgrade to octopus board and ask if you can share your printer .cig as link is not working if you still have it
You have it figured out. However you can throw a belt around the z steppers at the bottom. That's what I did to mine.
he has individual motors so they auto level, gets rid of that problem
Hey Joe, I just bought Tronxy's VEHO 600 which seems to just be an upgraded version of the X5SA series.
The board popped as soon as i plugged it in, but after reaching out to Tronxy, they are saying it may be over a month before i can get a replacement board.
Sucks, especially for a brand new $1500 printer to have an immediate quality issue.
I was debating on getting a SKR 3 or an Octopus board to replace the crappy stock tronxy board.
Any recommendations between the SKR 3 or the Octopus?
And also how difficult is it to get Klipper set up for this?
Definately get the octopus so you can run dual independent z and automatic Z_TILT_ADJUST
Klipper is extremely popular and common, help is available on the internet. If you have used putty, flashed firmware from a USB, and messed around with config files then it shouldn't be too difficult.
You will also need to find a raspberry pi which are either hard to get or have scalper prices on amazon. (there are alternatives)
@@JoeMalovich Thanks, Which octopus do you recommend? I am seeing a few different versions. I am guessing the dual independent Z / auto tilt adjust you are referring to allows the controller to compensate for 2 Z motors, whereas a regular board is using the same drive signal for 2 motors so they cant be jogged independently? Sorry im new to the printer world so i am delving in and trying to learn more. Appreciate the insight!
@@janus5890 I can't tell you which Octopus to buy, when I bought mine there was only one option. You need a minimum of 5 drivers on your controller for dual independent Z.
With the stock setup both motors are sent the same signal. After it is homed and adjusted, if it powers off one of the motors can drift due to gravity pulling down on the bed. Google x5sa bed tilt, there are many mechanical solutions to keep them synchronized if you really dont want to go with dual Z.
Mechanical dual Z, and a SKR Mini E3 V3 would be the cheapest solution though, it has the 4 drivers integrated so you don't need to buy them extra.
Hi joe so have you continued using this configuration ? or what was your conclusion does work better than the stock board ?
Yes I still use it with good success. The stock configuration is trash.
I don't get why 3D printer owners need to make these changes? I'm only looking at this because I am so frustrated with my TronXY X5SA. If companies just built a machine to work properly out of the box, we wouldn't even need to go through this bs. However, I am very thankful to this and other TH-cam creators for sharing their solutions and experiences.
It's been a bare minimum race-to-the-bottom full of compromise for a while.
As they say you get what you pay for. For $200 or less you won't get many bells and whistles. That said there are 3d printers out there now that you don't have to do much, but you pay a higher price for the convenience. I just bought a Ender 5 S1 on sale and it just works. There are also some of the newer bed slingers that work well. That was not always the case though and it has taken quite a few years to get to this point.
believe it or not, some of us actually enjoy doing these upgrades and are quite happy to buy lower cost printers as the base for the projects. I am currently working on my X5SA but never modified my Prusa printer, the only original wires left on my Ender 3 are the bed heater and temperature probe…
now you gotta turn it into a vzbot, one of the highest speed printers available.
Красава!
Ya know...i wonder.... if i cover the entire work surface with blue painters tape, and put one of my old extruders in place of the spindle.... i wonder if i can print a gokart on my 5'/9' CNC....lol. might be a fun project
Maybe if it can extruder DOM, otherwise it will take forever.
Iv'e bought the board and a pi I opened the electronics box and see it has a big flat cable that plugs in the midle of the board' The big tree octopus doesnt have a place to connect that flat cable could you tell me what you did to resolve that issue. Thankyou
I ripped out that board and ribbon cable and wired everything direct. Some wires needed extended. Some stepper wires I bought longer ones and had to switch around some wires in the plugs to match the stepper/octopus requirements. Your mileage may vary.
It's really not a TRONXY anymore except in frame only.
@@JoeMalovich Thanks
first of all, great video thanks for that. I'm currently building a vz bot from the tronxy x5sa Pro 330. The BTT octopus should also go in there and the whole thing should then run with the BTT PI and klipper.
would you be so kind as to send me the source code of your firmware. that would be really great...
With klipper you build your own firmware with the included utility th-cam.com/video/n7zc5u3nbi4/w-d-xo.html
Can you Senf my the Printer config for This Board pleas
Did you complete this build
Is a build ever complete? I have a couple hundred hours on it so far.
@@JoeMalovich Thats a good point. How did you mount up the Octopus
what laptop is that?
Zenbook Duo
The print cooling screams for you to print a bullseye fan shroud.
For others, it is impossible to upgrade for this Tronzy. I have two I would like to fix with a video of details not seen here.
Without a detailed video knowledge of every bit how you did this 10 videos is not enough. I like how people praise their printers and not tell little bit of detail how they possibly got this to work. For others is impossible. please post much much more detail. Without a detailed video knowledge of every bit how you did this 10 videos is not enough. Please post much much more detail.
What specifically do you need to know? I would say if you can't infer the steps required then maybe these mods aren't for you, but that's not the spirit of TH-cam. I do kinda frame my videos for a viewer of similar aptitude as myself but I don't know what others don't know, ya know?
Nice printer tell me a very detail how you did it. Parts.. good working firmware all detail.In that’s what we all would like to know.. Please please do it all right!!!!
make a video that will work for everyone for This Tronzy. That way we can all have a sports car. Not just a pretty show it, in this video. Take the disappointment mystery out proper Upgrades of Tronxy made out from the box. 😢 please help us all!!!
Look into VZBot, a Voron like mod for the Tronxy that has developed a mind of its own.
Have you tried homeless endstops
I have not tried sensorless homing
@@JoeMalovich would you be able to help me build the firmware
@@jaythornhill2916 follow this th-cam.com/video/B0rSP8TKwl8/w-d-xo.html
can we have your printer.cfg ?
here ya go www.joemalovich.com/2022/05/19/printer-cfg-for-tronxy-x5sa-w-klipper-btt-octopus/
@@JoeMalovich thanks gives me a heads up for helping someone other side of world - i'm nozzled on youtube BTW - I run a fysetc spder v1.1 on a x5sa pro - soon to be a VzBot
First? Weird.
This is one worthless printer. I received one and it does nothing. I have contacted the company but they refuse to help me. I may report them to the US government so they can never sell in the US again.
Yeah as time goes on it's a worse and worse option.
Cursed