@@JarrodWillemse I still haven't got around to watching your vids and correcting mistakes and such. FYI, the SR20 block was a few (4kg?) kilos lighter than the CA18 block but overall an SR20DET engine is a little heavier than CA18DET engine, not much in it really, especially with the 8-port setup. The 4-port really was the final evolution of the CA1xDET. It started with a 8+4port setup in 1985, then went 4+4port, then finished with the optimal 4-port. The evolution of the 4A-GE Toyota engine was the same in the same time period. I would say the CA18DET ports are a bit too large but the plenum runners are closer to ideal for the inlet valve size (which are oversized), albeit with a large variation in length across the cylinders, which may be deliberate to spread the pulse-wave (helmholtz resonance) tuning effect more smoothly across a wider band (SR20 VVT achieves this far better by changing when the inlet valves open). CA18DET exhaust valves are on the small side (as with RBs, I think). CA18DET inlet side quench/squish band was wavy for valve deshrouding and relief around those big inlet valves, also featured higher valve angles, which is more ideal than SR20 but SR20 has better valve size balance, placement and inlet squish area. (I mention all this because it is where all the crucial magic happens).
So I’m trying to buy an s chasis and don’t know whether to choose a ca18 or sr20,though I will be swapping I want to go RB or VG given I have a 300zx at the moment,I’m not sure which I could make more power with or if I should even sell my 300zx for a Silvia
The main issue with the sr20 is its head. Swap that with a VE head (there is quite some work to do for that) and it gets pretty good, with nice torque. The CA can do more power reliably, but it will lack low down torque. Still, I'll take a 9000rpm, 50psi boosted CA18 over any SR20.
That ECCS system on CA18DET is kind of limiting, I had one years ago tried to disable it because I was getting leaks in the vacuum lines, but I ended up screwing it up and couldn't get it running right again. I always wanted to bore and stroke it to a CA20DET and use a crank girdle. I did alot of research and found out I would end up spending twice as much to get the same power as a SR20DET, also the SR has a square bore vs stroke ratio where a CA20 would be more undersquare. However CA18 has better direct valve acuation and doesn't use rocker arms like a SR. CA is kind of like a 4 cylinder version of an RB.
Yeh a lot of people think removing it is easier but the car was designed around those butterflies. It’s not really a restriction until 400hp. Some of the newer guys are using electronic vacuum pumps now to actuate the valve. If you just connect the butterfly’s to vacuum it does work but you loose out on some bottom end power. From my tuners perspective the sr and ca usually make the same power with the same mods because the ca can rev higher which makes back it’s smaller displacement.
As far as power potential goes the SR20 is the clear winner. The issue with the Y shaped rockers are easily addressed buy having them machined to accept and use dual guide shims.
Most of the crank/bearing problema are because "oil starvarion problem) so basically too much oíl go to the top os the head and Low oíl in oilpan so this Burns the bearings. You can try put some oíl vapor pipes vent to atmosphere and a oversized oíl pan and no problem at all Sorry if a cant explain better
Yeh mate can agree. Some ca cranks didn’t have the oil passage drilled correctly from factory and suffer from starvation as well. People also put the wrong weight oil in their engines.
Does the SR also carry over the CA’s characteristic un-skirted crankcase block that can be traced back to the original license built Austin engines, along with any other little known commonalities to suggest the SR was a linear development of the CA rather then a clean-sheet design?
I see. Know a number of Nissan’s pre-Renault fours trace their linage to the B-Series via the E OHC such as the CA, CD, MA, CG and possibly the GA. Although it’s less clear concerning the SR together with the QG and CR.
@@JarrodWillemse By the time of the CA and SR, Nissan had little need to copy anyone else. In some ways one can say Nissan gives an idea of how a competently run Austin/BMC could have further developed and replaced their own engines had BL not occurred.
@@nzuncovered1845 I don't know, I'm assuming a fully built one top and bottom all upgraded might make it more efficient, I'm no expert, I'm just glad the options are there for KA owners, most builders that do go that route seems pretty happy, I guess at this point with all the tech and machinery available its really personal preference for the average daily driver who just wants to have a good time, imo its just about having fun in your car
@@farouqiamin7894True but SR20s just have far better characteristics and power delivery, response etc. 2 - 2.2 litres seems to be the sweet spot for 4 cylinder engines. I think the KA24 head is physically smaller too and you are limited with valve size and lift, flow etc. If you can choose I would recommend going SR or RB, once you have been in a balsy SR with 200+KW you will be sold, they go great and sound so much better than a KA24.
@@nzuncovered1845 thanks for the info, sadly an SR here in America goes from $7,500 usd and up, 10yrs ago I should of just bought one when they were $2,500, with that extra 5,000usd I rather just play around with my KA honestly, that price hike is mind blowing, my goal is simple just want the KA to make about 420hp thats it, just a daily driver and have some fun in the streets, I will however take your advice into consideration before I do spend that cash and talk to a few guys at the shop see what they suggest also, thanks again
Isn’t the ca18det lighter than the sr20det? Even though its iron block? I did some research and not sure how reliable the source was but the ca weighs about 128kg and sr weighs 149kg according to the source
Yes, not sure the overall difference is quite that much. Nissan saved ~4kg, I think (~8kg compared to SR16?), from going alloy, but the whole engine does weigh more than the CA18DET.
Have you ever experienced chain slap or broken hydraulic tensioner? I know you can fix with a manual tensioner but rb and 2j have belts as well and people love those. Much easier to service a belt than a chain if you need to do timing related changes.
What are you spark plugs gapped to my wife has a similar setup ca18 and we can’t figure out the plugs which ones to run cold or warm and what to gap them to
I’m using some ford falcon iridium spark plug from the lpg model here is aus. They come pre gapped. But Bk7RE gapped to 0.025” is a good starting point. If you are running heaps of boost them maybe you can gap them down to 0.02” any more than that I would guess you need to check leads and coils. For a stock setup BKR6E work with 0.03” gap
@@JarrodWillemse thanks will try that out my wife’s ca has an s15 t28 pushing around 20psi of boost has a z28 maf bigger injectors bigger fuel pump and cas is advanced to the max no idea who the motor up that way either lol
@@josealopez377 More than 18psi is past its efficiency range of a T28 and just starts heating the air. This could lead to detonation. Also just advancing the CAS To max is dangerous as super advanced ignition can also cause detonation. I would strongly suggest taking your car to dyno to get tuned professionally or turn the boost down to 15psi and set the ignition timing to 15deg per the manual.
From factory they can go to that rpm. I think how much rev them will depend on the torque because the factory rod bolts will only handle 450nm. If you can limit torque then you should be able to squeeze to 8000 on factory rod bolts. Anything higher you need upgraded rod bolts. Make sure the engine is well balanced. No point to rev any higher if you aren’t seeing more hp over 7500.
CA18DET --->Nissan 180sx 600hp
SR20DET ---->Nissan Silvia s13 400hp
I guess both depend how much money you want to spend
Euro-spec S13s (which only came with CA18DETs) don't have the butterflies on the intake so that's not something to worry about on them.
Yea correct I should have mentioned that!
@@JarrodWillemse I still haven't got around to watching your vids and correcting mistakes and such. FYI, the SR20 block was a few (4kg?) kilos lighter than the CA18 block but overall an SR20DET engine is a little heavier than CA18DET engine, not much in it really, especially with the 8-port setup.
The 4-port really was the final evolution of the CA1xDET. It started with a 8+4port setup in 1985, then went 4+4port, then finished with the optimal 4-port. The evolution of the 4A-GE Toyota engine was the same in the same time period. I would say the CA18DET ports are a bit too large but the plenum runners are closer to ideal for the inlet valve size (which are oversized), albeit with a large variation in length across the cylinders, which may be deliberate to spread the pulse-wave (helmholtz resonance) tuning effect more smoothly across a wider band (SR20 VVT achieves this far better by changing when the inlet valves open). CA18DET exhaust valves are on the small side (as with RBs, I think). CA18DET inlet side quench/squish band was wavy for valve deshrouding and relief around those big inlet valves, also featured higher valve angles, which is more ideal than SR20 but SR20 has better valve size balance, placement and inlet squish area. (I mention all this because it is where all the crucial magic happens).
My vote is for ca18, very strong little engine
+1
So I’m trying to buy an s chasis and don’t know whether to choose a ca18 or sr20,though I will be swapping I want to go RB or VG given I have a 300zx at the moment,I’m not sure which I could make more power with or if I should even sell my 300zx for a Silvia
@@VEGA-J how much power u can make with any engine all comes down to how deep your pockets are🤷♂️
@@VEGA-J RB! I have a lot of love for the VG, but straight-6 is just better balanced etc than a V6. RB20DET is the best sounding in my opinion.
The main issue with the sr20 is its head. Swap that with a VE head (there is quite some work to do for that) and it gets pretty good, with nice torque. The CA can do more power reliably, but it will lack low down torque. Still, I'll take a 9000rpm, 50psi boosted CA18 over any SR20.
Yeh i prefer the ca too. More character!
Well done video! :) Looking a lot to ger RS13 200sx with CA, i think they're pretty sick and CA isnt so bad as people say
Cheers! Yep totally get one. Make sure it doesn’t have any rust. You will be happy with the ca.
@@JarrodWillemse Yup i know :) I also like sound of CA more
@@mix1806 Surprisingly sr and ca sound very similar i cant tell the difference when driving.
If it was a CA20DET (a stroker CA18 or using the CA20 crank) it’s probably much the same as the SR20DET. Basically a baby RB20DET and would be heavy.
That ECCS system on CA18DET is kind of limiting, I had one years ago tried to disable it because I was getting leaks in the vacuum lines, but I ended up screwing it up and couldn't get it running right again.
I always wanted to bore and stroke it to a CA20DET and use a crank girdle.
I did alot of research and found out I would end up spending twice as much to get the same power as a SR20DET, also the SR has a square bore vs stroke ratio where a CA20 would be more undersquare. However CA18 has better direct valve acuation and doesn't use rocker arms like a SR. CA is kind of like a 4 cylinder version of an RB.
Yeh a lot of people think removing it is easier but the car was designed around those butterflies. It’s not really a restriction until 400hp. Some of the newer guys are using electronic vacuum pumps now to actuate the valve. If you just connect the butterfly’s to vacuum it does work but you loose out on some bottom end power. From my tuners perspective the sr and ca usually make the same power with the same mods because the ca can rev higher which makes back it’s smaller displacement.
Explained really well mate
Cheers mate
As far as power potential goes the SR20 is the clear winner. The issue with the Y shaped rockers are easily addressed buy having them machined to accept and use dual guide shims.
Agreed in terms of effort sr20 is easier but I think ca18 is still a good option.
Most of the crank/bearing problema are because "oil starvarion problem) so basically too much oíl go to the top os the head and Low oíl in oilpan so this Burns the bearings.
You can try put some oíl vapor pipes vent to atmosphere and a oversized oíl pan and no problem at all
Sorry if a cant explain better
Yeh mate can agree. Some ca cranks didn’t have the oil passage drilled correctly from factory and suffer from starvation as well. People also put the wrong weight oil in their engines.
I have a CA in my S13 240 lightly modified... fun little rev happy motor
So underrated the little ca.
Excellent info!
Cheers thanks!
Neo VVL on the sr20 is the way to go you can’t beat that
Yes agree but its so expensive
Vvl is the best naturally aspirated =less problems bigger valves too
Great video. Subbed!
Thanks bro! Appreciate it!
SR20 and rockers.... nuff said (CA is king!)
Agreed unless it’s a vvl sr20 haha
@@JarrodWillemse yea the vvl is so nice. But expensive :o
Ca18!
CA18!
Does the SR also carry over the CA’s characteristic un-skirted crankcase block that can be traced back to the original license built Austin engines, along with any other little known commonalities to suggest the SR was a linear development of the CA rather then a clean-sheet design?
I’m not sure I have never cut a block open.
I see. Know a number of Nissan’s pre-Renault fours trace their linage to the B-Series via the E OHC such as the CA, CD, MA, CG and possibly the GA. Although it’s less clear concerning the SR together with the QG and CR.
@@wickiezulu I'm pretty sure all manufactures look at what each are doing and copy to an extent.
@@JarrodWillemse By the time of the CA and SR, Nissan had little need to copy anyone else. In some ways one can say Nissan gives an idea of how a competently run Austin/BMC could have further developed and replaced their own engines had BL not occurred.
Somebody need to do one of these comparisons with a built KA24DE-T, then we will really know what the deal is
I’d love to make the video but personally I don’t have any first hand experience with one. We don’t have the ka here in aus.
KA24s aren't that great, their head doesn't flow as well as a SR20 if I remember correctly.
@@nzuncovered1845 I don't know, I'm assuming a fully built one top and bottom all upgraded might make it more efficient, I'm no expert, I'm just glad the options are there for KA owners, most builders that do go that route seems pretty happy, I guess at this point with all the tech and machinery available its really personal preference for the average daily driver who just wants to have a good time, imo its just about having fun in your car
@@farouqiamin7894True but SR20s just have far better characteristics and power delivery, response etc. 2 - 2.2 litres seems to be the sweet spot for 4 cylinder engines. I think the KA24 head is physically smaller too and you are limited with valve size and lift, flow etc. If you can choose I would recommend going SR or RB, once you have been in a balsy SR with 200+KW you will be sold, they go great and sound so much better than a KA24.
@@nzuncovered1845 thanks for the info, sadly an SR here in America goes from $7,500 usd and up, 10yrs ago I should of just bought one when they were $2,500, with that extra 5,000usd I rather just play around with my KA honestly, that price hike is mind blowing, my goal is simple just want the KA to make about 420hp thats it, just a daily driver and have some fun in the streets, I will however take your advice into consideration before I do spend that cash and talk to a few guys at the shop see what they suggest also, thanks again
Isn’t the ca18det lighter than the sr20det? Even though its iron block? I did some research and not sure how reliable the source was but the ca weighs about 128kg and sr weighs 149kg according to the source
I haven't weighed them myself but I have lifted a ca and sr block and the sr is definitely lighter
Yes, not sure the overall difference is quite that much. Nissan saved ~4kg, I think (~8kg compared to SR16?), from going alloy, but the whole engine does weigh more than the CA18DET.
What turbo manifold are you running on the ca18
It’s China I’m pretty sure I got it on marketplace. Hasn’t cracked yet.
SR bro chain driven
Have you ever experienced chain slap or broken hydraulic tensioner? I know you can fix with a manual tensioner but rb and 2j have belts as well and people love those. Much easier to service a belt than a chain if you need to do timing related changes.
What are you spark plugs gapped to my wife has a similar setup ca18 and we can’t figure out the plugs which ones to run cold or warm and what to gap them to
I’m using some ford falcon iridium spark plug from the lpg model here is aus. They come pre gapped. But Bk7RE gapped to 0.025” is a good starting point. If you are running heaps of boost them maybe you can gap them down to 0.02” any more than that I would guess you need to check leads and coils. For a stock setup BKR6E work with 0.03” gap
@@JarrodWillemse thanks will try that out my wife’s ca has an s15 t28 pushing around 20psi of boost has a z28 maf bigger injectors bigger fuel pump and cas is advanced to the max no idea who the motor up that way either lol
@@josealopez377 More than 18psi is past its efficiency range of a T28 and just starts heating the air. This could lead to detonation. Also just advancing the CAS To max is dangerous as super advanced ignition can also cause detonation. I would strongly suggest taking your car to dyno to get tuned professionally or turn the boost down to 15psi and set the ignition timing to 15deg per the manual.
You have a alluminium damper less crank pulley ?
Yes but don’t recommend using!
εχω ca18 det και το εχω παει μεχρι 7600rpm, εχει πολυ διαφορα ,θελω να ανεβασω κιαλο αλα φοβαμε μιν παθει καποια ζημια
From factory they can go to that rpm. I think how much rev them will depend on the torque because the factory rod bolts will only handle 450nm. If you can limit torque then you should be able to squeeze to 8000 on factory rod bolts. Anything higher you need upgraded rod bolts. Make sure the engine is well balanced. No point to rev any higher if you aren’t seeing more hp over 7500.
In pratica non hai detto la cosa fondamentale......potenza massima modificata del ca18det interni stock contro sr20
quanto è lungo un pezzo di corda?
@@JarrodWillemse non capisco cosa dici, grazie
The ca is the fake rb cuz it looks like a rb25
Ca18det came before Rb25