Replacing a Dodge Cummins 6.7 coolant / water pump , 2008,2009,2010,2011,2012
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- We had our water pump fail on our 2010 dodge Cummins 6.7 Engine multiple times and made this video for others who might have to do the same repair. I am pretty sure it is exactly the same for the 2008-2012 engines and very similar for newer trucks.
As you can see this can be done as a DIY project. Here are the parts I used.
Water Pump
Mopar - amzn.to/2MEsDiR
Gates (what I used) - amzn.to/2tJdjKK
Coolant - amzn.to/2IJZPmS
Belt (only if needed to replace) - amzn.to/2tKr3oz
These pumps apparently do not last forever so its a good idea to take a look at it while the engine is running every so often to check if it looks like there is any play in it. Luckily with this engine it is pretty easy to get at so when it does fail its not a terrible job.
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It’s a bi to put the belt on. Warning
We have the original water pump with the 2008 Cummins having 370k but now we have to replace it for the first time
This video helped a lot! Just did my water pump today! A little tip for someone that’s doing it tho that I ended up doing that helped a lot. If you still have your fan shroud on, take off your air box to have a lot more room. Takes one bolt and just pull it straight up and it will pop off. I left the lid connected to the intake to the turbo and just moved it out of the way! Great informative video man! Great work 👍🏼
Thanks for watching and sharing your tip! :)
GOD LOVES YOU..Respectfully your wife is BEAUTIFUL and COOL as all get out!!! .That's Great!!!
On the 2008, there certainly seems to be less clearance between the fan shroud and belt-driven accessories... Also, the fan shroud is mounted on post/brackets (on four corners) which appear to be in the way of turning a long ratchet or breaker bar for rotating the tensioner enough to put the belt on... I was however able to get the belt off -- but not able to get it back on*, as the breaker/ratchet appears to stop short -- hitting the fan shroud post/bracket... It looks like (because the aforementioned clearance issue) a breaker/ratchet cannot fit from underneath either.
Maybe I'll be able to link a video showing the differences (and the solution of what needs to be removed or used in order to sufficiently turn the tensioner).
* I was able to get the belt off probably because, with the belt on, the tensioner would not need to be turned as far as it needs to be when the belt is off; and also that the belt, installed, is already in the proper 'flattened' configuration already.
My 2008 Ram 3500 has the same hex vent screw bolt. It took a hex wrench and a cheater bar to break it loose. I almost gave up. It appears the factory used red thread locker on the threads. Are they doing that because they don't want it to be removable perhaps? Mine bairly broke loose and I almost stripped out that hex nut trying. The factory put blue thread locker on the water pump bolts so they came out with a little less persuasion fortunately, but they put up a pretty good flight as well. I think with the wrong size hex wrench or socket on the pump bolts, they are going to round off on you. And if the pump bolts round off, it's going to be a real bad day trying to resolve that. Especially due to the limited space available to work with. This was the first water pump change on this truck and I've owned it since new so these bolts were factory installed. Thanks for the video. Very helpful.
What size hex did you use? Having a hard time and don't want to strip it out, can't find any threads or videos on what size it is
@@trevor3856 I used a hex wrench that fit the tightest. If I had to do it again I would have used a 3/8s drive hex wrench out of a set from Harbor Freight or tried to buy the specific size 3/8s drive hex and use a 3/8s breaker bar. You might call a dealer parts counter and ask them to look up the part and see if it shows what size it is. Like I said, it appears the factory did not intend for it to be removed. They used red thread locker on it. If the head is stripped, I would drill it, then use an easy out. It's crap like this that makes me hate working on vehicles.
The reason I would try to use an easy out rather than simply drilling it out completely is because I wouldn't want to get drill shavings into the EGR cooler. Also the threads are NOT reverse or anything so looking down, you should be trying to turn it counterclockwise. Although I did try applying some torque clockwise occasionally to try and rock it loose. Not sure if that did any good though. But like I said, mine eventually broke loose using as much force as I could apply. I was also thinking of trying an impact gun, but didn't have to go that far. I have the 3/4 drive HF Earthquake model that is rated at 1500 foot pounds of TQ. But that would likely have spun me or spun the whole EGR cooler off the truck. Lol.
@@davidsine4390 if you put some heat to it the thread locker will be butter. You can also put a wrench on the tubing to hold it so the there is no torque trying to pull it away from the engine while using whatever force method you use, ratchet, impact gun or breaker bar. I used a 6mm which was not correct but a 7mm was too big. Didnt have anything SAE that fit better. Just trying to figure out what the correct size is. Seems like it should be any easy question for all the people that do this?
do not use g05 coolant on 2013 2500. use only mopar purple
Cheap coolant will eat out water pump seals, and cause your bearings to wear out in your water pump, look for long life coolant with no silicate or borates additives. Honda coolant used none of these additives and I used them in all of my Jeep and truck. I used to work for Acura dealer as a mechanic 28 years. They used to have water pump leaks until 2000 , 2000 up cars never seen much coolant leaks because of good coolant used, when I service them over 105k, they looked like new coolant when draining. Hope this helps.
I agree with Howard Watts below. If there's a filter retrofit, you might want to think about adding it. I'm retired, but come from the world of class 8 heavy duty semis. Every one has a filter. Most of the filters also have a pre-charge of additive that takes care of build-up of deposits. Those deposits will play havoc with pump bearings, (as well as the outside of cylinder bores, which can cause what's called "cavitation", a process that will eat through the cylinder wall.) If no filter is available, you might want to at least research whether there's an additive that will help condition the coolant. Four water pumps is a bit much!!
This is by far very informative. Thank you!
Mine just seized and threw the belt. Thanks for the video
Always pays to buy quality.
Gonna help my homeboy change his pump out tomorrow morning. Now that I’ve watched this video it’ll be like I know what I’m doing or something! Not really.
Great video. Just subscribed!
Did you have to add sealer around the water pump?
Tom,
Checkout FCA T51, Recall of Ram heavy duty pickups. It shows the dealer will replace water pumps from a certain manufacturer (sorry, N/A to your vehicle). The FCA bulletin shows the difference between bad pumps and good ones. I am not certain, but yours appear to the part of the bad batch. Details of the pulley and a vent hole are the differences between good and bad. It can be visually inspected without pump removal. Here is a link:
static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2017/RCRIT-17V562-2127.pdf
Also, here is a link to a post-recall replacement water pump with the features described a good pumps in the recall:
www.genosgarage.com/product/ram-cummins-water-pump-5473057/water-pump
Good to know, Apparently they discovered the problem!
This is one of the best repair videos I've ever seen. I was looking at this very situation today and your video describes everything to a tee. Thanks!
Your video is a great help. I changed my thermostat at the same time as the water pump. Having the thermostat housing and other items removed to replace the stat seemed to give me more room and made the water pump job easier.
You make it feel like we could do this. We know nothing about engines but with your video I probably could do it. Though I wish you had shown how to put back on tensioner. All in all A + video!!!
AirStream Azza Dream Replacing the tensioner is simply the reverse of its removal. Best of all, because it's spring-loaded, the tensioner fits only one way. You can definitely do this job yourself, saving lots of money in the process (not to mention the feeling of achievement).
You do an excellent job of explaining thinks. thank you
Great video. awesome info. I placed a bostech waterpump on my 2012 yesterday. Model WP03302. Way better than the cummins waterpump. Blades are metal and not plastic. Weep hole is located in a better position.
My 2012 just blew and shredded the belt. It also sheared off half of the tensioner!! Huge mess. Your vid was exactly what I needed. Thanks
I was dreading the water pump replacement thinking I would have to remove the entire front end of the truck as usual. Thank you for the best most concise repair video I have ever seen.
Glad to help! :)
I had mine fail while 1,800 miles from home pulling a 38ft trailer. I lost the belt and I thought I was in the middle of no where, Luckily it happened in the morning and was just a few miles from a small town with a auto parts and limped it there. I had been up for 24 hours and driving through the night, That was a rough trip.
Thanks for a real in depth video , wish u would of shown the gasket/seal , how that goes on
2015 2500 is completely different. Fyi for those watching.
Love the video! Big question, that ticking sound at 16:55 mine makes the exact same one, any idea what it is? It’s quiet for me at startup and once it’s warm it’s a little louder.
Thanks for the great video. I replaced belt, tensioner, thermostat and water pump. Water pump was leaking more and more coolant every day. About 50,000 miles on it. I removed the air box, removed one of the nuts on the left side of the fan shroud and wedged that to get more hand room there. Belt tensioner was moved with a 1/2 ratchet and a long cheater pipe. 2 or so hours from coolant drained til re start.
My gates pump only lasted 2 years (15k miles) and I don't even haul or tow as much as you do,🤬🤬🤬 wtf!!
I have the 2010 2500 dodge ram 6.7L. Your video have been a big help to me in maintaining my truck. Thank you and please keep up these great video's. 😊
Excellent video. Well-made and full of useful information. I can't imagine why anyone would downvote this. Maybe because you got some dirt on your forehead and *they* never get dirty when they work on their vehicle? 🤔 Keep up the good work. God bless!
Are there any torque specs on the 10 mm Bolts?
Thanks for another great vid production, Tom. While you're in B'field, take it a couple of the single-A Calif League baseball games. Had lived in Sktn before moving back to SW Iowa; was fan of Sktn Ports of the same league. Be safe, guys!
What’s with that thumb? At 11:28 🤮jk nice video.
But seriously.
Your reservoir won't show any change until the engine is shut off and cools, then if it needs more it will be pulled in. If there is to much then it will go to the overflow right away. So like you said keep an eye on the level for the next few hot to cold cycles to see if you need to add any antifreeze.
Do you think this job would be easier if you remove the fan and shroud? Are those things difficult to remove!
I gotta check mine. I have a 2012 with 88xxx miles also 2wd dually
Mine looks like it is leaking from behind the air conditioner compressor....is that possible?
Notice you didn't use the air bleed up on top, which can lead to over heating problem
Tom, you and your wife seem to excel in everything you do. Your knowledge and wide range of talents is what makes your channel so interesting to watch. Thanks for inspiring us to be more self sufficiant.
Thank you for the kind comment! :)
Thank you for making this tutorial! Watched the video as I changed out the water pump in my 07 6.7l . Very helpful.
Is my 08 6.7 2500 the same as doing a water pump on the 3500?
Thanks for the video! Much help indeed!
Dont you need to "burp" the coolant before radiator cap is put back on?
I had my pump replaced under the recall. Recently tho I've got a whirl noise at 1000 rpm. I thought maybe an idler now I'm thinking that new pump. I may be doing this shortly myself.
Awesome there is no telling how many thousands of dollars you have saved in your videos by doing your own repairs and installs I do the same in my life
We probably couldn't afford it otherwise!
i just did it in 20min didnt take anything apart
I'm amazed that your pump bearings fail. I have replaced the pumps because the bearing seals are failing. I can't believe that you don't notice any loss of coolant before the bearings fail. My belt is still the original at 300K. For sanity reasons, I suggest to remove the fan and shroud. Then it makes life a lot easier.
I used to work at a Dodge dealership (Im a carrer auto parts guy)and have a 99 with a 5.9 cummins and it has 450km(Sorry Canadian lol) and it is only on its 2nd pump and that was due to a coolant leak...the bearing in my original was fine....
I would say you definately have something else wrong going on there...the water pumps in my experience are not THAT problematic....Off the cuff I would have a look at your belt tensioner....it might be because to much tention on that belt will cause excess side load on that bearing and that could be whats wearing that out.
Just food for thought
Mine is 2015 ...I have replaced mine 3 times in 100K miles (2 were on fire when I opened the hood)... I usually take the fan/fan clutch off it give a little more room but is not necessary....
15:00 .. talking jibberish... notch on back of tensioner... align and tighten up bolt. Then put socket wrench and relieve tension to put belt on.Why would you tighten bolt halfway, put belt on.... take belt off and tighten up tensioner?
Where did you buy your pump I got mine from orileys
The coolant drainage made me have to pee. That noise.
Just about to replace. 2010 6.7
This happened to my '14 2500 @ 78,000 miles, 8 hours into 14 hour trip. The pump seized and sheared off the pulley which then got caught in the belt. Luckily, it didn't cause a fire. Ended up doing the repair on the side of the road instead of waiting three days, six hours from home for the dealership to fix it under warranty. The dealership was nice enough to deliver a new pump, belt, and coolant to me since I was in a bind at no cost... this is why you always carry tools! It took about 3 hours to complete the repair, most of that waiting for the engine to cool off enough to work on it. Got it back on the road and made it home that night. Found out that there is a recall for these pumps and fortunately I was given the newest design so hopefully this one lasts longer.
Yikes! What a story, I have heard about that recall, I hope they fixed it!
3 hours lmfao did you use pliers
@@thomasklein3233 "most if that (time) was wanting for the engine to cool off..."
Yeah, I totally used pliers and that's why it took 3 hours. 🤦♂️
Bahahha its just reg maintenance at this point 😒
I have a 2016 3500 with the 6.7. My water pump was changed at the dealer due to a safety recall. Hopefully the new pump is a better quality than the O.E.M.
What kind of oil on the new pump seal
Best to use the premixed coolant because the minerals in the local water supply could harm the engine. Lime could build up from a hard water source and with the heat and pressure can cause unknown damage.
We always use distilled water.
Yea this blocks are very susceptible to corrosion look it up. The coolant has additives to prevent corrosion inside the engine.
Great video. Liked and subscribed. Looking forward to checking out the rest of your content. Thanks for sharing.
great video thank you
I have to agree on the previous comment. Well done and didn’t waste a lot of time. Keep doing that. My Ram is in my garage for a replacement tomorrow. I may go to Harbor Freight for a breaker bar or ratchet for a long reach with some ratchet stamps to do it myself. It shouldn’t be difficult but I gotta have it going my Monday 3pm mountain for work.👍
My guess is its kinda hard getting that belt on with one person.:
Great video. How many gallons of coolant did you end up adding?
I think about 4
Had to do mine on my 11 3500 lucky for me it happened after I got back from bringing my 5er home from a trip. Had whiny noise then the belt went. So far my second one has been going strong fingers crossed it stays that way for while lol.
Yep they fail like clockwork
Might want to check with Gale Banks utube site regarding aftermarket differential covers.
Excellent video. Looks like I'll be performing this repair soon and have a good understanding of it now 👍👍
Excellent video! Thank you so much, you give me the confidence to begin.
Thx , I hope my 2017 does not need one for a while ,great job on the video !
My thought exactly. I'm at 11k miles on my '17 and things like this only happen to me in the winter usually. Great job on video explanation for us worriers.
what is the protocol for flushing the coolant? Or can you just drain it and fill it up like you did?
Thank you and your gorgeous wife for the video!
It was right on.
The gentleman that helped me was not near as attractive but did the job just as well.
Just a side note. The belt DOES NOT need to be fed around the fan. Follow the diagram that the dude provides.
It is all right there.
Daniel
Have a dealer check the last 8 of your VIN for recall. It might go back to 2010 rams?
Thanks man !! I'm a tech at a GM dealer and one of these just rolled in. Thankfully I don't have to remove the fan and shroud like I figured! Great content!
Mortons ~ Thanks very much for taking the time to produce this very helpful video for your fellow Ram CTD owners. Although you certainly have a nice truck there, I wanted to ask you about your EGR system. You see, you are in that "gap" that occurred during model years 2010 and 2012 when, in all of their wisdom, the powers that be decided to buck the move toward DEF injection and, instead gave all of us 2010-2012 6.7L CTD owners an elaborate -- yet incomplete -- exhaust treatment system. I assume that you travel a lot, so I'm also assuming that your truck sees some cold weather...and, if I'm right about that, your truck probably sits at idle more than a typical CTD-powered Ram. The point here is that, if you run at idle a lot, your beautiful 6.7L Cummins I-6 engine has an EPA-mandated ticking time bomb hanging all over it. Considering that you were good enough to help me with my present water pump issue, I'd like to offer to help you out if and when you decide -- or are forced -- to deal with your emission system. I have intimate knowledge of this seemingly 2010-2012 specific issue and, if caught early enough, [perhaps] this experience could save you a lot of grief. Thank again for the video and lots of luck to you.
Thank you so much for your comment. I completely agree and while it looks intact the time bomb was diffuesed before the truck hit 100k. And is now happily at 220k. (However the egr started leaking coolant so is now completly gone and coolant routed back to cylinder 6) Because of our position I don't want to take a public stance on this but I completely agree with you for longevity !!
Awesome video 3/2022 🔥🔥🔥 I would’ve loved to see the reverse process as well. I still believe I can do alternator, water pump, tensioner, belt, and coolant change. Thanks definitely learned a few things.
Just had to have this done this last weekend along the interstate. The mech that change it out took the air intake box out, this gave him plenty of room to get it out and replaced. Simple 30 minute job with the air box out. Did not have to drain it because the old water pump failed and drained it for us.
no torque specs?
Or for 12 bucks you could just buy a serpentine belt removal tool…Makes it a little less painful just saying LOL
Thats a good idea!
Nice, clear video. Thanks.
All good, but I have to ask you, why didn't you give it a good flush? Like run water through it and get all the contaminates out of there before adding new.
That would be a great idea. I had just done a flush not long before this happened.
Ever think to get belt tensioner with about 30% less tension? Look at the polish on the steel of the old pump. I would check out gas tensioner for the same truck, pull that poundage down. Do a torque wrench test on that one, then test some gassers. I would also stop by my local machine shop and press the bearings out to find out whos they are? If it is a good German/Japanese/USA bearing. The problem lies somewhere else.
I have not but will look into that!
You could also size the belt not by part size but physical size, then add 3/4 of an inch to the belt. That would also weaken the spring in the tentioneer. That would be a less expensive option, but the math still works. Is the tensioner in the 50% range of travel? Or in the first 20%? Could be something as simple as a 1 digit "typo" in a service manual part # to throw us all into kaious. Have seen that before.
Whats the milage on your truck
We're at 220k now. This was done around 150 I think and it's still going strong.
2013 thru 2017 models have water pump recall.
Great vid you don't have to take the tensioner off
good one! Great job and very helpful.
Hi i have a weird question... when you open your radiator cap first thing in the morning does it have pressure or spills lilbit colant like in the video 3.40 ish.. cuz mine does have pressure first thing in the morning on cold engine.... i thought i had head gasket problems but i ran combustion chemical tester, but it was all good. Tnx
Yea there is a tiny ammount of pressure in the system and we get just a dribble out of the cap.
@@MortonsontheMove tnx ive noticed that when i turn off the engine while rad cap is open itll throw up some coolant.. so i think thats where the little pressure is coming from
Good informative vid, thanks Mr narrator.
engine blocks sand cast get it out. put coolent filter on I did on my 7.3 after 4 pumps problem solved.
Just had this very item fail on our 2010 3500 while on our way home. We were under tow. $700 later after a tow to shop and repair we are back normal. After watching this, I'll be watching it closer and doing self maintenance for sure. WAY cheaper for sure in the labor.
Keep an eye on it! Glad you found this helpful.
Excellent my man-- Excellent!
Captive belt, you’re welcome
Nicely done , keep up the the good work
This was very helpful! Thanks for uploading!
Good vid, just what I was looking for. Thanks
Glad to hear it!
Thanks
Good video, I'm about to replace my water pump with an after market with a Billet Aluminum Impeller. My orginal water pump is still on my 2007.5 6.7 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 ST Diesel and have 280,185mi on it, It's not dripping or leaking yet but I figured I'd change it before it goes out. I can't believe you went through that many water pumps in that short of miles.
Thank u very much!!!
Thanks for video, very detailed and helpful, by the way do you need license endorsement for fifth wheel and dually truck for total combine gvwc?
That's a complicated answer, In our home state (florida) we do not need a license to drive any RV. Other states (texas for example) require a class A cdl for over 26,000 lbs. Most states will honer other states rules as long as you are just visiting.
Need genosgarage.com and more truck videos
Thanks for the video. I didn't need to remove the tensioner. ... but all other tips were great.
You're welcome!
Great video, but what the hell is the torque specs? I feel like that's a pretty important part to tell people.
Hmm I don't remember and not sure I measured. Because it's gasketed you can feel the pressure. Just dont over do it!
@@MortonsontheMove 18ft pounds is the answer.
excellent video...thanks man....BB