Oh man I actually flinched when the cap went off the bottle and product went everywhere x_x Seriously fantastic tutorial, I seriously appreciate you taking the time to set up, record and edit everything. Seriously wanna get making my own weapons now, but the cost for everything is so much! And I'd love a belt sander on top of it all! 😁
Thankyou and no problem at all!Yeah that liquid is not coming out of that hoodie. Sad times. I'm making a how to video on a budget soon so maybe it will help for getting started?
2000 views and 600 suscribes? People its crazy! Is the best larp sword tutorial i never seen in youtube, and im start 17 years ago in YT. C'mon people... I try to spam in Larp groups.
Thank you so much!! A kopesh is a beautiful weapon. Sadly bent core weapons are beyond my expertise. But perhaps one day. You'd have to make the core custom with a fibre glass mould as you can't really bend fibre glass after its formed. It's flexible but not really malleable due to its fibres running along its length. Perhaps there would be another material appropriate for the cores? I will investigate.
It’s been awhile but I thought I would let you know that I found some people that have been able to make curved fiberglass! I was able to make a katana and now in the works on that kopesh! The company is called Elysian forge.
Hello absolutely outstanding sir i am currently working on a witcher costume for myself for next year, i am going to make both the sword and the dagger i wanted to ask where do you obtain the patterns from ?? keep up the awesome work well done
Thank you very much! I believe I found an image from online and then simply created a silhouette by removing all the hue and saturation then bumping the brightness down to black. I'll try and start a folder on google drive and share a link to the files I used. But same method can be used for most images of swords, its easier if the background is blank.
@thefighter6071 isoflex special primer seals and primes porous, dusty, flaky and old roof surfaces. Ideal for use on old felt, tile, bricks, cracked bitumen and mastic repairs it has been formulated with high grade urethane polymers that cure to form a robust yet flexible sealant. It dries in 2-4 hours. Its for roofing really but it also adheres really well to latex or plastidip and seals the weapon in a clear durable finish. Haven't really found anything else that matches its durability and level of protection, but its essentially a kind of synthetic clear rubber.
@thefighter6071 I think its also the name of a brand of whey protein.... but definitely not that! If you find something that kind of fits the bill let me know as can add it to the video description for people outside Europe.
Always speaking sbout larp shows swords or in better cases Hammer...what about danish axes/viking longvaxes/great axe from dyd? Could you show how to make one?
very good tutorial, I see you from Spain and I have a couple of doubts. in Spain isoflex is illegal due to carcinogenicity, do you know any other protector for latex? And the other question is, what machine do you use to put latex? Thank you so much!
Isoflex is nasty! I've previoulsy tried the flexipaint clear finish, www.tyges.co.uk/product/matt-gloss-top-coat-sealer-for-flexi-paint/ a good 3 coats of this should help, it also removes any tackyness that might be from the painting. I'd still recommend finishing with some silicone spray if possible? Alternatively you could try clear plastidip if that's available? Basically anything that is clear and remains flexible once dried, something with a bit more substance than just clear coat. When doing one or 2 weapons it's easy enough to apply the latex with a sponge or even a brush. Keep the layers thin and let them dry between each coat and then after 5 or more let it fully set over night before painting. If using a brush make sure you wash it straight after with some water and fabric softener, it will still destroy the brush eventually but it will last a little longer by doing this. I've now bought a large compressor and spray gun (type for cars) which is great but massive, loud and quite messy. I'd recommend sponging on the layers personally.
@@thehermitworkshop2913 Thank you very much for the information! For now I am using a single layer of urecoat for my weapons, the truth is that it works very well, I recommend it. In Spain we use fiberglass as the core and in the tip, as an extra security, a thicker piece of foam surrounded by fabric, so we can more easily avoid the tip breakage, in case you want to experiment with that idea!
Great to hear! You don't necessarily need a belt sander. Cut it down to a close shape then hand sand working from a low grit to a high grit to get a nice smooth finish. If you have a dremel you can do this with that but again its not necessary. The belt sander just speeds it up.
Hey! Thank you! I am mixing it with pretty standard acrylic paint. I do at least 5-7 layers in black then I used ready mixed flexibile silver paints etc to do the colour. I think I'm going to try adding silver acrylics to latex in future, I like the way you can build up layers with the latex as its slightly translucent.
@@thehermitworkshop2913 Thanks for the reply - that's a great technique! I reckon the acrylic mixing will look good in silver, my only worry would be: does adding too much acrylic weaken the latex and make it more likely to tear?
@@benreid3970 Short answer is that it will to some extent.... but the ratios used to add colour are so minor it is unlikely to cause any noticeable problem in practice. It's my understanding that acrylic (being water based) essentially relies on evaporation in order to dry out. So the paint mixed with the liquid latex should mean that when dry its just pigment and latex. I think I use a ratio of roughly 10 (or even more like 20) to 1 latex to paint. Would 100% recommend a black latex undercoat before metallics as is will show up much more noticeably against the dark base. The Isoflex top coat also really helps reduce any risk of cracking, but I've heard clear plastidip also works well.
@@thehermitworkshop2913 Awesome, thanks again for your insights, I'll be sure to implement them. Also, when you say Isoflex are you talking about the thinned Thixofix? Or is it another product altogether?
@@benreid3970 its another product. Its essentially a flexible clear coat that dries like a rubber. It's horrible stuff though, you must wear protective clothing, masks ans goggles when using, the fumes are potent but it is really durable.
Seems to me you've used natural liquid latex to the pommel; how about making the blade with this same material? I'm asking for researching purposes. Many thanks!
I am a little confused by the question? The pommel is made from flexfoam-it 15 by smooth on which is a 2 part chemical urethane foam. When mixed it solidifies and expands depending on its density characteristic. This is a medium density but you can make with a softer density foam or harder. The blade is essentially medium density foam coated in around 6 layers of latex. So the pommel is the same. Foam then covered in latex. You could do a latex pour in the mould but I'd recommend doing this in stages as it would days to set.
This is made from craft foam by polyprops. Anything up to their cf65 in terms of density. www.poly-props.com/foams essentially any medium density foam mating works. You don't want the really dense stuff for LARP.
100% its horrible horrible stuff! So far no issues with the rub n buff I've used. I'll keep an eye out though. I'm steering away from rub n buff a little anyway feel it can crease a little easier than other options and you can still get the nice finish with other more flexible alternatives. I like it on my own weapons but if I'm selling them I'll try and make sure they as durable as possible.
Yeah. I wanna basically just work through the show and other films/tv weapons as well. Just haven't had a huge amount of time due to work. Was there one in particular you were after me making?
cool build and a great tutorial. Only critique is that foam as a handle material is pretty terrible. Really hurts your handling ability and makes the sword feel sluggish. Also rub and buff tends to wipe off on peoples clothing in my experiences with it.
Thank you very much! 100% agree in regards to the grips however it needs a foam grip in order to comply with the larp safe regulations of the specific event that I attand. The isoflex acts as a varnish and essentially creates a complete layer over the paint, rub n buff and all so thankfully there is no way thats gonna come off on clothing. If you want to avoid the isoflex stage you can still use a few coats of a clear coat finish, it just needs to be one that retains some flexibility.
@thehermitworkshop2913 I don't actually have a idea. I would need some really thick, like a 4cm thick foam that also needs to be as long or even longer than I am, so 170cm and it would have to be like 50cm wide. Then the hard part is finding a good core material, with my budget it would just be a pvc pipe. Then just paint and voila
Oh man I actually flinched when the cap went off the bottle and product went everywhere x_x
Seriously fantastic tutorial, I seriously appreciate you taking the time to set up, record and edit everything. Seriously wanna get making my own weapons now, but the cost for everything is so much! And I'd love a belt sander on top of it all! 😁
Thankyou and no problem at all!Yeah that liquid is not coming out of that hoodie. Sad times. I'm making a how to video on a budget soon so maybe it will help for getting started?
@@thehermitworkshop2913 Ooh I'm looking forward to it already! I have some supplies and need to put in an order at polyprops soon anyway :D
2000 views and 600 suscribes? People its crazy! Is the best larp sword tutorial i never seen in youtube, and im start 17 years ago in YT. C'mon people... I try to spam in Larp groups.
Thank you very much that's really kind. There will be more gotta get round to it.
Holy crap this is amazing, subscribed!!
Well done mate!
Pommel looks amazing well done.
I think a Scythe or a mad mages rod should be on your list.
Keep the videos up!
Thank you Nick! I am bringing up the guts to make a start on that Scythe.... Watch this space.
I'm impressed
Thank you.
Really great video, well done 😃
Thank you very much! I am glad you liked it
It looks great nice jobe good explanation keep going
Mate, this is stellar. You've a talent for this - do you do commissions?
Super awesome! Definitely want to see more. Have you ever tried makeing a kopesh? That would be super cool.
Thank you so much!! A kopesh is a beautiful weapon. Sadly bent core weapons are beyond my expertise. But perhaps one day. You'd have to make the core custom with a fibre glass mould as you can't really bend fibre glass after its formed. It's flexible but not really malleable due to its fibres running along its length. Perhaps there would be another material appropriate for the cores? I will investigate.
It’s been awhile but I thought I would let you know that I found some people that have been able to make curved fiberglass! I was able to make a katana and now in the works on that kopesh! The company is called Elysian forge.
Hello absolutely outstanding sir i am currently working on a witcher costume for myself for next year, i am going to make both the sword and the dagger i wanted to ask where do you obtain the patterns from ?? keep up the awesome work well done
Thank you very much! I believe I found an image from online and then simply created a silhouette by removing all the hue and saturation then bumping the brightness down to black. I'll try and start a folder on google drive and share a link to the files I used. But same method can be used for most images of swords, its easier if the background is blank.
Im a bit confused on what "isoflex" is at 12:00
@thefighter6071 isoflex special primer seals and primes porous, dusty, flaky and old roof surfaces. Ideal for use on old felt, tile, bricks, cracked bitumen and mastic repairs it has been formulated with high grade urethane polymers that cure to form a robust yet flexible sealant. It dries in 2-4 hours. Its for roofing really but it also adheres really well to latex or plastidip and seals the weapon in a clear durable finish. Haven't really found anything else that matches its durability and level of protection, but its essentially a kind of synthetic clear rubber.
@@thehermitworkshop2913 Ohh Ok! Thanks a million
@thefighter6071 I think its also the name of a brand of whey protein.... but definitely not that! If you find something that kind of fits the bill let me know as can add it to the video description for people outside Europe.
love the video, do have a question about the Thinner, what product do you recommend for the Fixafix ?
Always speaking sbout larp shows swords or in better cases Hammer...what about danish axes/viking longvaxes/great axe from dyd? Could you show how to make one?
how exactly did you go about making that pommel?
very good tutorial, I see you from Spain and I have a couple of doubts. in Spain isoflex is illegal due to carcinogenicity, do you know any other protector for latex? And the other question is, what machine do you use to put latex? Thank you so much!
Isoflex is nasty! I've previoulsy tried the flexipaint clear finish, www.tyges.co.uk/product/matt-gloss-top-coat-sealer-for-flexi-paint/ a good 3 coats of this should help, it also removes any tackyness that might be from the painting. I'd still recommend finishing with some silicone spray if possible? Alternatively you could try clear plastidip if that's available? Basically anything that is clear and remains flexible once dried, something with a bit more substance than just clear coat.
When doing one or 2 weapons it's easy enough to apply the latex with a sponge or even a brush. Keep the layers thin and let them dry between each coat and then after 5 or more let it fully set over night before painting. If using a brush make sure you wash it straight after with some water and fabric softener, it will still destroy the brush eventually but it will last a little longer by doing this.
I've now bought a large compressor and spray gun (type for cars) which is great but massive, loud and quite messy. I'd recommend sponging on the layers personally.
@@thehermitworkshop2913 Thank you very much for the information! For now I am using a single layer of urecoat for my weapons, the truth is that it works very well, I recommend it. In Spain we use fiberglass as the core and in the tip, as an extra security, a thicker piece of foam surrounded by fabric, so we can more easily avoid the tip breakage, in case you want to experiment with that idea!
This is a fantastic video, I'm about to attempt making one of these swords for the first time. Do you have a link for the template used here?
I'm currently using this to make Goblin Slayer's shortsword, but I don't have a belt sander, what do you suggest I do for that step?
Great to hear! You don't necessarily need a belt sander. Cut it down to a close shape then hand sand working from a low grit to a high grit to get a nice smooth finish. If you have a dremel you can do this with that but again its not necessary. The belt sander just speeds it up.
That's exactly what i ended up doing. Now I'm working on a worbla pommel
@@thehermitworkshop2913 I wonder, have you ever seen anyone adding a layer of gauze under the latex?
For the pomel what silicon di you use because Is perfect? aniway it's a gorgeus sword 💪😎
What is the foam? EVA or Polyethylene?
Where did you get the pommel file?
Absolutely amazing tutorial man. Are you mixing your liquid latex with black acrylic paint? Or just thinning it with water/black dye?
Hey! Thank you! I am mixing it with pretty standard acrylic paint. I do at least 5-7 layers in black then I used ready mixed flexibile silver paints etc to do the colour. I think I'm going to try adding silver acrylics to latex in future, I like the way you can build up layers with the latex as its slightly translucent.
@@thehermitworkshop2913 Thanks for the reply - that's a great technique! I reckon the acrylic mixing will look good in silver, my only worry would be: does adding too much acrylic weaken the latex and make it more likely to tear?
@@benreid3970 Short answer is that it will to some extent.... but the ratios used to add colour are so minor it is unlikely to cause any noticeable problem in practice. It's my understanding that acrylic (being water based) essentially relies on evaporation in order to dry out. So the paint mixed with the liquid latex should mean that when dry its just pigment and latex. I think I use a ratio of roughly 10 (or even more like 20) to 1 latex to paint. Would 100% recommend a black latex undercoat before metallics as is will show up much more noticeably against the dark base. The Isoflex top coat also really helps reduce any risk of cracking, but I've heard clear plastidip also works well.
@@thehermitworkshop2913 Awesome, thanks again for your insights, I'll be sure to implement them. Also, when you say Isoflex are you talking about the thinned Thixofix? Or is it another product altogether?
@@benreid3970 its another product. Its essentially a flexible clear coat that dries like a rubber. It's horrible stuff though, you must wear protective clothing, masks ans goggles when using, the fumes are potent but it is really durable.
Where did you find the template?
Seems to me you've used natural liquid latex to the pommel; how about making the blade with this same material? I'm asking for researching purposes. Many thanks!
I am a little confused by the question? The pommel is made from flexfoam-it 15 by smooth on which is a 2 part chemical urethane foam. When mixed it solidifies and expands depending on its density characteristic. This is a medium density but you can make with a softer density foam or harder. The blade is essentially medium density foam coated in around 6 layers of latex. So the pommel is the same. Foam then covered in latex. You could do a latex pour in the mould but I'd recommend doing this in stages as it would days to set.
@@thehermitworkshop2913 Sorry, i got lazy at some point, but your response is still very informative. Thank you very much!
what foam did you use for the pommel?
I used FlexFoam-iT Series 15 for the pommel
Nice work dude, what tipe of foam u used??
This is made from craft foam by polyprops. Anything up to their cf65 in terms of density. www.poly-props.com/foams essentially any medium density foam mating works. You don't want the really dense stuff for LARP.
@@thehermitworkshop2913 ok dude, thanks
Yeah Isoflex will rip hairs out of your arm and hurts like hell! Be careful with rub and buff with isoflex, some brands eat through it.
100% its horrible horrible stuff! So far no issues with the rub n buff I've used. I'll keep an eye out though. I'm steering away from rub n buff a little anyway feel it can crease a little easier than other options and you can still get the nice finish with other more flexible alternatives. I like it on my own weapons but if I'm selling them I'll try and make sure they as durable as possible.
Are you doing anymore witcher swords ??
Yeah. I wanna basically just work through the show and other films/tv weapons as well. Just haven't had a huge amount of time due to work. Was there one in particular you were after me making?
cool build and a great tutorial. Only critique is that foam as a handle material is pretty terrible. Really hurts your handling ability and makes the sword feel sluggish.
Also rub and buff tends to wipe off on peoples clothing in my experiences with it.
Thank you very much! 100% agree in regards to the grips however it needs a foam grip in order to comply with the larp safe regulations of the specific event that I attand.
The isoflex acts as a varnish and essentially creates a complete layer over the paint, rub n buff and all so thankfully there is no way thats gonna come off on clothing. If you want to avoid the isoflex stage you can still use a few coats of a clear coat finish, it just needs to be one that retains some flexibility.
I wanted to use this tutorial to make a colossal sword but realized that this isn't the best method for me.
@jeesusteippi fair enough how do you plan on taking on the project?
@thehermitworkshop2913 I don't actually have a idea. I would need some really thick, like a 4cm thick foam that also needs to be as long or even longer than I am, so 170cm and it would have to be like 50cm wide. Then the hard part is finding a good core material, with my budget it would just be a pvc pipe. Then just paint and voila