Bottom Job Paint Removal , Sanding and Painting Your Boat: How to Step by Step on a Sailboat, 2024
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- Let's Get to Bottom Painting Your Boat ! I offer a lot of helpful tips in this how to video.
Orbital Sander - (I’ve used a lot of different ones and this is my favorite) - amzn.to/3S4cLrk
Sanding discs - 80 Grit - amzn.to/3CwiEYB
60 Grit - amzn.to/3VnRSua
Respirator Mask and Safety Glasses Combo - amzn.to/3XqM1oD
Gloves - amzn.to/3YpVkoQ
Coveralls (Bunny suit) - amzn.to/3kOBSDN
Vinyl Tape (For waterline during sanding) - amzn.to/3kZLpYB
Blue Painting Tape - amzn.to/3HHbi8p
No Lint, Reusable, Cleaning Towels/Rags- amzn.to/3DwG9C2
Denatured Alcohol - amzn.to/3kMIouw
Rollers : Wooster 3/8 NAP - amzn.to/3T0eq2w
Roller Frames - amzn.to/3EEHrMF
Metal Paint Tray - amzn.to/3rVU52t
Tray Liners - amzn.to/3VnGsqi
Paint Pail - amzn.to/3SZYs8B
Paint Pail Liners - amzn.to/3eA6F4d
Paint Brushes Set - amzn.to/3VoxmcM
Paint Mixers for 1 Gallon (use with a drill) - amzn.to/3WOQSP7
***Interlux Interprotect 2000e Primer (Barrier Coat) - White - amzn.to/3juBLg7
***Interlux Interprotect 2000e Primer (Barrier Coat) - Grey - amzn.to/3g1e4dk
Micron 66 black - amzn.to/3Y7Xg5y
Micron 66 blue - amzn.to/3RzdzWr
Micron 66 green - amzn.to/3HAFvVr
Micron 66 red - www.westmarine...
Micron 66 is the only copolymer in the Interlux line. It's the best for saltwater. Micron 66 has Biolux. It is worth paying the extra money in high fouling locations and it’s almost necessary.
-
- Cheaper Ablative Options:
TotalBoat JD Select Ablative Antifouling Bottom Paint for Fiberglass, Wood and Steel Boats - All Colors - amzn.to/41azExZ
Interlux Aqua One Ablative - Black - amzn.to/3AYqOZm
Blue - amzn.to/3AVM4ii
Green - amzn.to/3AWriiD
Red - amzn.to/3LYYTif
Krypton Copper Free Antifouling Bottom Paint for Fiberglass, Wood, Aluminum and Steel Boats, Outdrives and Trim Tabs - All Colors - amzn.to/41ZQ0ut
Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote NT (Dual Resin, Mix of ablative/hard) (black) - amzn.to/40o5msp
(Blue) - amzn.to/44rjhzX
(Green) - amzn.to/42btLBS
(Red) - amzn.to/3jwMiaF
More Antifouling Paint Options List coming very soon to this description box. I’m working on it…
- Check Back Soon !
How Much Paint do you need ? Bottom Sq Ft Formula:
( Boat Length x (Beam + Draft) ) x 0.6
-You can put ablative over hard paint but you don’t want to put hard paint over ablative
I highly recommend using ablative paint as hard paint doesn’t wear off overtime like ablative and will build up with every coat you paint making the boat heavier in the water and having to blast the coats off every time can be extremely tedious and expensive. Also, if the boat is out of the water , after a just few days hard paint will oxidize and be useless. Ablative can be taken out of the water for a long period of time and splashed back in and it will still be effective.
Taping - pull off the tape shortly after you are finished painting as it can be difficult to get off if left on for too long and stuck to dried paint, and of course, this is a very satisfying part of the job. ; )
You want to Wear gloves and glasses during the whole process and a respirator and coveralls as well while sanding and painting toxic anti fouling paint.
*** Make sure you leave yourself some paint for the stand squares and any other areas the boat has been resting on , i.e. bottom of keel
Make sure you tape off your metallic running gear / out drives / etc when using any copper based paint as it can cause corrosion.
Wet Blaster I use : clearblast.com...
Tip: If you want to save money on renting one of these or a similar one , find somebody else in the yard who wants to use one too and schedule your jobs around the same day or two.
*As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. You pay the same as always.
Let’s Get Your Bottom Paint Job Done !
FYI , you can still buy it for a while in many places , but Micron 66 is being discontinued by Interlux. So, if you can’t get it at some point I recommend Micron Extra SPC. Best of Luck !
Great Show How video. I like the colors of your hull but people think it's too hot. However, I'm going to assume paint top first because as soon as the bottom paint dries, it's got to be put in the water asap?? Is all this correct?
Yes, with most bottom paints you want to get into the water within 30 days , good luck
Question, why so many coats of primmer etc.? White then green then the red ablative paint? once the red ablative paint is shot it needs repainted anyway, I think.
You really need to protect your hull with the primer and the paint sticks well to the primer. You put on multiple coats of primer for protection and different colors so you know how much primer is left. Different colors of paint also lets you know how much paint has worn off. Good luck !
What about the stands?? Did you move them after each coat of primer? Or how was the approach?
I think I mentioned that sort of … just do them at the end … save some primer and paint… seal your paint good if time in between.
this didnt discuss how to lay a waterline, at all. what do you paint the bottom paint to? do you cut it short of the waterline so its all on bare metal, or, do you paint the waterline above the waterline over where the above-waterline paint is? what's best long term?
Great video.
We decided to scrape off the old anti fouling and ended up in some parts on white and other parts grey. I assume the white is the epoxy coat and the grey an old primer (it came off with a lot of aceton). Question is now: do we sand off the grey part? We bought 2 part epoxy primer and the shop guy advised us to make sure to remove it all if using 2 part, as it could react with the previous paint. However if we use 1 part primer, we can just apply it on top of any 1 part or 2 part product… any advice? do we continue with the tough job we started scraping everything off or do we just apply the 1 part primer?
Thanks in advance for replies!
Hello, I highly doubt the primer underneath your anti fouling was a one part whatever it may be. Dont put the 2 part over old Antifouling or topside paint. Two-part primers are used before antifouling because they adhere really well to the anti fouling. Be sure to sand with 80 grit good first and clean the surface well before applying the primer. Hard to tell you much more not seeing it. Sorry for late reply, I wish you the best.
Thanks for your reply!
In the end I did sand of the old grey layer, because we discovered that it was being diluted/removed while applying acetone… so here we are, after 1week: hull completely sanded and ready for a new 2 part epoxy barrier before we put our chosen anti fouling.
We our thinking about placing coppercoat but need to be careful the temperatures are consistently high enough for applying & curing afterwards
To be continued
Great video. Thanks for all the great information! A few other paints I've seen recommended are SeaHawk Cukote, Interlux Micron CF and Interlux Micron CSC.
Thanks for contributing ! Micron extra SPC is newer and really good. Though you can still get it online, micron 66 is being discontinued and the extra SPC is considered an improved replacement. Thanks again for the comment.
What would be the time factor to splash after painting?
Check with your specific paint , but most ablative paints say within 30 days as they are somewhat activated by the water. If you have a boat that’s been hauled out for a while you can give it a very light sand with higher grit to open up the anti fouling ingredients again before splashing.
Great job.. Thanks for posting
Trying to do some research into what is best for the environment as I'm on the Chesapeake Bay. Any suggestions would be super appreciated! Thanks for the video!
The only yard I’ve been in up there is Stingray Pt Boatworks in Deltaville Virginia… it’s the cheapest rates and a good yard. I don’t know about there regulations on DIY blasting though. Deltaville has a lot of other yards as well. It’s a small town though but they’ve got a great hardware store. I’m mostly south more in Florida. Best of luck !
Seem to be holding up decent? Going thru this right now.. debating primer on entire hull versus just primer on needed spaces where white is showing....fantastic vid.... so many others that are lacking proper procedure for this important evolution. Thanks!
Hey thanks a lot … well, I recommend fresh primer on entire hull because the anti fouling paint sticks to the primer good when it’s fresh and tacky. Yes, the paint is still great on the boat in the video. Best of luck Kev
Hi there.
How do you paint the primer and the antifouling beind the jack stands?
Leave a little primer and paint left over … make sure you seal the cans again so the paint doesn’t dry inside. Then have somebody from the yard move your stands. Good luck !
This is a really great video. Thanks for taking the time to explain everything so simply. I looked through ten or so other bottom job videos before this one and I wish I hadn’t wasted my time. This video is all you need ! Question: the micron 66 is just for saltwater correct? Thanks again !
Hey thanks for your kind words and I’m glad you found it helpful ! That’s what the video is for, as I also found most other videos lacking a lot of need to know info. It’s impossible to cover everything in a short video but I tried to help with as much knowledge I could. Yes, Micron 66 isn’t suitable for fresh water. Saltwater and Salty Brackish water only. Good luck with your boat and let me know if you have any other questions.
@@yachtworks370 Thanks !
Super helpful seeing it done. I’m doing mine this week and this was super directive for me.
Great video! I’m in the process of taking off all the old paint myself right down to the gel coat. I’m scraping instead of sandblasting because for some reason I like to put in as much work as possible on my boat 😂 question for you though! It looked like there were painted x’s around the hull before you put the first green coat on after the primer, was that for any specific purpose or just goofing around? Thanks for all the great info!
Haha … thanks for the great funny comment … scraping is so much fun ! And then the sanding ! Oh the joys … but the harder you work the better the payoff when it’s all done! 😬… to answer your question , the X’s were us marking where the first coat of primer was a little thinner and marked where to add a little extra on the next coat. Although, goofing around is still high on the priority list 😄 … it’s a necessary to stay sane sometimes. Best of luck to you ! Keep your eye on the goal! Thanks again !
Just to clarify for you … the x’s were in between primer coats , not after the last primer coat … you got this !
Best video I've seen on bottom painting, and dudes, I've watched shittons of videos on this subject. I need to repaint the rest of my boat and I want it to be shiny like yours. Do you have a video for that?
Thanks man for the nice comment … the only other video I did was buffing the gel coat to get rid of oxidation and make it shine again … not sure if you have gel coat but if your going to completely repaint it I recommend Alexseal paint. It’s awesome stuff. I’ll be doing a video on that at some point but not for awhile. But if you have gel coat and don’t want to spend as much maybe just buff polish and wax like in my other video…. Thanks again and good luck !
Great video, had some information that was exactly what I was looking for. Very informative and these types of videos are sometimes hard to find.
Hey that’s great ! Glad you found it useful. Thanks for the comment … best of luck !
How much money sand and paint bottom like that can you please tell me
It depends on what paint you use. A good Multi season paint can be $300 - 450 per gallon. Single season paint can be much cheaper at $100- $175 ish. The primer is also about $180 per gallon. The sander is around $70. Discs maybe $20. Towels and brushes etc maybe $50 combined. Good luck !
Thanks, super helpful ... Keep it up
First and foremost, great video! I know it is not easy to film and do all the things you are doing that the same time. I appreciate the details on the steps, in particular I am concerned of going to deep sanding and destroying the gel coat...I just don't know how easy or hard it is to damage the gel coat. My only suggestion to improve your video (which is VERY GOOD already) would be to provide more detail on the blasting. I realize that may be a video in and of itself. I have a lot of questions about blasting. First you have to ask will my marina even let us blast? I do not believe mine will. They will let a professional company do it, but I do not believe they will let me do it myself. I got an estimate for my Hunter 44 and they want $2400. My yard gave me the name of a guy and said last year for a boat our size he charged about $1400; Our friend inflation has taken care of that for us I guess. I can't do $2400.
There are so many other considerations with the blasting: dry or wet, type media; I was told to go w/ soda blasting but I've seen dustless blasting that uses water but works in a way that you don't get large pools of water or runoff. Is soda blasting and ductless the same? Other considerations, tenting to keep other boats clean and contain what comes off your boat, collection and disposal of what comes off your boat. So many concerns and questions on the blasting alone. I think the material collection is why our marina won't let us do it. I think they are concerned our collection and disposal efforts wouldn't comply with Maryland Clean Marina requirements...but I just don't know. These are just some of my concerns in doing this! If you have any comments that might help, I'll take any info I can get. Again, thanks so much for putting yourself out there and providing all the info you have. Take care and have a great season...beautiful boat by. the way!
Another question I thought of on the blasting machine concerns the air compressor. Looking up the unit you used, it does not include an air compressor. The air hose and connection type don't look the same as a typical garage air compressor so I'm assuming that thing has to be hooked up to a commercial unit...did you rent that separately or when you rent the blast unit they included the compressor with the rental?
Hey thanks for your comment .. sorry I’m a little busy right now , but I’ll get back to you soon. Just letting you know. Thanks
Ok , so you will need to check with your yard first. Regardless, if there are other boats around , You will want to tarp off around your boat and have drop cloths beneath the boat. The clear blast is the best blaster I’ve ever used and it’s affordable to rent. They will deliver it if close enough to you. Use this to see if any rental places are in your area : clearblast.com/rental-locator/ Also, you can use many different types of media with the clear blast. Here is some instructional videos : clearblast.com/videos/ …. Best of luck to you !
Also , if anyone else is looking to do the same job in the yard you’re in, you might be able to split the rental cost.
Hello from Canada. I sanded my old fiberglass sailboat and it went down to the smooth fiberglass. Any advice on how to prep and repaint it? Or just follow this video for the journey?
Do you still need my help with this ?
Any one ever tried to do bottom paint on a trailer? I’ve seen a few videos on here about it but it seems scketchy
Can you link or give a title to one of those videos ? I’m curious
More videos please mate ❤. What do i do to repaint top sides is my bottom primer okay and 2 coats of top side? I have no idea.
Hey thanks … sorry but there are many different options for topside so I’m not best sure how to direct you … look at this basic video if you are still in need: th-cam.com/video/BTPuaTFEGFo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ULUlgUJAy6JY8M1H
Curious why the layer of Green Antifouling then Red? Why not multiple coats of Red? Is it to know when to re-coat? Thanks!
Yes, it helps knowing when and where it’s wearing off and also while painting it helps to know what you haven’t painted yet. So if you hauled out again after a while and saw some green you could do some light sanding and throw on another coat of red. Most boats which are white end up with black paint as their final color.
@@yachtworks370 Thanks, My sailboat has vivid white bottom paint, I've always given a light sand and recoated annually, but the white is high maintenance, may try something different this season?
why such long gap between videos
Working on more sorry
How do you move the stands?
Get the yard to do it … most yards require them to do it for liability reasons anyways.
Promo>SM
post more
Thanks … I am planning too … is there anything you are interested in seeing ?
New video out today and I have 2 others in the works
FYI a note here, sandblasters are illegal in the USA in boatyards as of 2023. You will not be allowed to rent and use a sandblaster in any marina without moving the hull into an enclosed building for capture.
Was gonna say the same. Super helpful video but the sandblasting is terrible for the ecosystem around it... Maybe you can add a small note in the video to think about this? Keep up the videos, cheers!
Thanks ! You put down drop cloths and tarp off the boat. It’s not any worse than sanding if drop cloths and tarps are disposed of properly.
@@wfwfwfwfwfwfYou're an ecosystem 😅.
@yachtworks370 what they are trying to say is that using silica (actual SAND) is extremely bad. Because the silica (sand) is blasted into particles that are so small they can stay in the air for hours. If there is a breeze they will carry on the wind. And they are extremely damaging to lungs.
I think a lot if people say "sand blasting" when they mean other mediums - like slag, walnut shells, or glass beads (which somewgat surprisingly doesn't cause the same problems as sand). But you definitely should not use sand in "sand blasting".
what does 0.6 mean ?
I’m not sure what you are talking about can you explain more ?
I assume you are talking about the formula for area of your boats bottom correct? If so "0.6" is exactly what it says. So you add the beam and the draft then multiply that by the waterline length. Then you multiply that number by 0.6. Is that what you wanted to know?
@@i1uvpreppyxo887That's right, that's what I mean. Thank you for the explanation