I started typing that just before you said something about the drill haha. The angle of the video camera made it seem like you were going straight into the transom. Scary tearing into that beautiful work there. Came out well though =)
So... Ten years on, how have your engine mounts held up? I ask because I have to redo a bunch of stuff on my SRV 240, and it has twin 455s driving Berkeley jets.
Harbor Freight has one of those vibrating multi-tools for about $30 that would have been great for cutting the slots for the steering arm. I have one, and it cuts through fiberglass and wood like butter. The blades wear out pretty fast in the fiberglass, but they're cheap. Looking good, though!
Hey Jay, I know that you did this video long ago but I sure hope I can get a return answer to my question(s). I just bought a 1991 Mariah 1900 Z that has a bad port side motor mount substructure and it caused the coupler to be stripped as well a wear to the driveshaft. I am 70 years old and getting younger due to my new hobby (BOATS). This video has helped me decide how I need to rebuild the motor mount undercarriage. I subscribed to your channel and am wondering the best way to get your advise when I do the Motor mount project. I am a retired mech tech person with woodworking, electrical and mechanical background. But not any in fiberglass! And I have the motor mount to rebuild as well as a 1982 Checkmate that has a chuck of chipped out exterior metalflake gel coat I need to repair. Would love to have your expertise advise.
A forstner bit is usually better for that job, and you could have used the drilling jig that you used for the through-transom holes (they're usually adjustable, so you could have clamped it down as a 60-degree guide)
FriscoBoater's Garage looking for it was like searching for a needle in a haystack lol I made a post about it hopefully I get a reply. What makes it so difficult though?
Thank you for making the audio loud enough to understand, so many youtube vids you can hardly hear.
I started typing that just before you said something about the drill haha. The angle of the video camera made it seem like you were going straight into the transom. Scary tearing into that beautiful work there. Came out well though =)
I just bought the same drill for pretty much the same reason. I actually upgraded to the $40 variable speed model, big time up town.
Yes they are. That is how they came from the factory. Now they are sitting of a bed Thickened resin first.
Yuor going great guns Jay. You should have test drive boat on the bottom of your to do list.
So... Ten years on, how have your engine mounts held up? I ask because I have to redo a bunch of stuff on my SRV 240, and it has twin 455s driving Berkeley jets.
Harbor Freight has one of those vibrating multi-tools for about $30 that would have been great for cutting the slots for the steering arm. I have one, and it cuts through fiberglass and wood like butter. The blades wear out pretty fast in the fiberglass, but they're cheap. Looking good, though!
Hey Jay, I know that you did this video long ago but I sure hope I can get a return answer to my question(s). I just bought a 1991 Mariah 1900 Z that has a bad port side motor mount substructure and it caused the coupler to be stripped as well a wear to the driveshaft. I am 70 years old and getting younger due to my new hobby (BOATS). This video has helped me decide how I need to rebuild the motor mount undercarriage. I subscribed to your channel and am wondering the best way to get your advise when I do the Motor mount project. I am a retired mech tech person with woodworking, electrical and mechanical background. But not any in fiberglass! And I have the motor mount to rebuild as well as a 1982 Checkmate that has a chuck of chipped out exterior metalflake gel coat I need to repair. Would love to have your expertise advise.
Bought a corded drill after the overheated battery fiasco I see. I love cordless everything but man sometimes the battery thing just doesnt work out.
No, all I had to do is adjust the nuts. Now I had shims just in case.
@907mercedes
I am going to add a layer or two of 1708 tabbing for good measure.
did you have to shim the front mounts to get engine aligned?
A forstner bit is usually better for that job, and you could have used the drilling jig that you used for the through-transom holes (they're usually adjustable, so you could have clamped it down as a 60-degree guide)
@416honda
I have that tool, and I hate it. It goes through the blades fast and it is slow.
HOW do you have time to do all this???
did you put peanut butter under the engine mount like you did the stringer?
Did you find out about this?
Question can I covert a direct drive inboard to a outboard?
That's a difficult task but can be done. Check out the iboats website and the restoration section. I think a couple of people have done it.
FriscoBoater's Garage looking for it was like searching for a needle in a haystack lol I made a post about it hopefully I get a reply. What makes it so difficult though?
The transom is different, and will have to be completely re-engineered... including the upper and lower section of the hull.
FriscoBoater's Garage understood!
Good luck man. I bet it will be cool when done.
Since when is a screwdriver the RIGHT tool for prying? Not that I haven't bent a few.
I own my own company, and it has been good to me.
Ryobi is a cheapy brand? here the lowest denomination is Ozito or house branded Chinese built electric tools...
Interesting repair series, kudos!