At 4:34 you state if you take off the negative first and then take the positive off, you can still create a short circuit which is false because there is no return path due to the negative being disconnected first. Best to take the positive off last and negative off first
I'm pleased to say that the ASC light went off after a while as well. No code needed for the MMCS unit, it also didn't forget my Bluetooth pairings, the heads up display lost its settings though
Hey Denmonkey, just some quick advice on the battery disconnection process. Always take negative off first. Reason being is the negative terminal is always connected to chassis and completing the circuit, therefore if you touch the negative to the chassis it wont short. If you're taking the positive off first and touch the chassis, the battery will want the shortest path to the ground (or chassis) and will cause a short through your spanner. You wont cause a short circuit of the negative terminal is off the battery because the chassis is not earthed to the battery and therefore wont have a path to earth on the battery
Found recently my battery is the other way around like you mentioned. It was that way when I brought it so never knew it was not the right way lol. I've always thought disconnecting the negative first is the better way as it disconnects the battery earth from the body so the positive won't short if bumped on it. Is it because of the dual battery you do this?
thats the way i do it too.. neg off first, (no more chassis earth then, doesnt matter about the spanner on pos terminal hitting the body then) and pos back on first (same).. best advice was about the sensors, the first time i did something similar with the battery on my paj, i freaked a little when the dash lit up afterwards :o
My 2010 platinum Pajero just had some apparently common issues. Manifold had about 2cm deep of carbon and the EGR valve stopped working. Cost me a tonne to get it sorted. Would love to see a pajero video on how to manage carbon in these common rail diesel motors.
Interestingly when I bought my NW Pajero 3.2 second hand it had a 490cca and started fine, always a good thing to know. But a few months later changed it to to the 810cca. It is my understanding the 810cca is a requirement for models with twin A/C, and any excuse to get a bigger battery 🤣
@@DENMONKEY Your doing great work Denmonkey, thankyou for your reply on a 2 year old story! Your videos are very helpful and more importantly you are a very genuine down to earth bloke to be doing this for others to know and learn. In a world of people that would sell their own mothers to make a buck🤑I say thankyou for your efforts mate.
Parasitic draw? Get a multimeter and set to 200mv and put it across the metal in fuses in your fuse block anything above like 15 -20 MV is like an amp or half amp draw
I'm all good. turns out it was just the battery on its way out. I picked up a amp clamp meter but it doesn't go down low enough to register microvolts. Even Jaycar didn't have anything that would do that for 12v. I've got my old multi which will work for just doing the fuse test but I need to get some new leads for it. I'm always breaking those bloody things. going to get a good set this time.
Love your vids but what your reason for taking the positive off first makes no sense.Taking the negative off first takes away the possbility of shorting out on the chassis.
At 4:34 you state if you take off the negative first and then take the positive off, you can still create a short circuit which is false because there is no return path due to the negative being disconnected first.
Best to take the positive off last and negative off first
I really enjoy your Pajero videos. Much appreciated
Cheers Wayne
Cheers Brett, your videos have saved me a bunch of times! Of course mine has died on a Sunday so off to Repco we go
I'm pleased to say that the ASC light went off after a while as well. No code needed for the MMCS unit, it also didn't forget my Bluetooth pairings, the heads up display lost its settings though
yeah it should go off within about 30 minutes or so of driving, if that
Exactly what I fitted to mine. After some research it came up the best option also.
Brilliant minds Tim
Hey Denmonkey, just some quick advice on the battery disconnection process. Always take negative off first. Reason being is the negative terminal is always connected to chassis and completing the circuit, therefore if you touch the negative to the chassis it wont short. If you're taking the positive off first and touch the chassis, the battery will want the shortest path to the ground (or chassis) and will cause a short through your spanner. You wont cause a short circuit of the negative terminal is off the battery because the chassis is not earthed to the battery and therefore wont have a path to earth on the battery
cheers Tim
Thanks for sharing, I'll buy the exactly the same one today at SCA, on special down to $231.99, and now extended to 30 months warranty.
cheers mate and I can tell you from previous experience, super cheap does honor battery warranties if you need it
This is very helpful I’m replacing new one tomorrow thanks
welcome mate
Found recently my battery is the other way around like you mentioned. It was that way when I brought it so never knew it was not the right way lol. I've always thought disconnecting the negative first is the better way as it disconnects the battery earth from the body so the positive won't short if bumped on it. Is it because of the dual battery you do this?
thats the way i do it too.. neg off first, (no more chassis earth then, doesnt matter about the spanner on pos terminal hitting the body then) and pos back on first (same).. best advice was about the sensors, the first time i did something similar with the battery on my paj, i freaked a little when the dash lit up afterwards :o
My 2010 platinum Pajero just had some apparently common issues. Manifold had about 2cm deep of carbon and the EGR valve stopped working. Cost me a tonne to get it sorted. Would love to see a pajero video on how to manage carbon in these common rail diesel motors.
You'll want to get yourself an oil catch can, most people recommend the Provent ones.
if youre not already, jump on the victorian pajero club forum ( www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/index.php ) mountains of info in there
@@vlfreak thanks mate, I will do.
Good advice re the positive first, thanks mate.
Welcome Tony
Some of your best work mate, but the close up 15:22 now that's scary. Cheers Steve
come closer steve
G'day boss, did you ever end up finding decent replacement trim clips for the rear plastic panels and stuff?
Not yet mate. Still looking
Did you find that the new battery was still discharging whilst sitting idle for long periods?
If so, did you investigate the cause?
All good Allan. It says for over a week with no ill effects after the battery change . Since that sorted it, I didn't need to look further.
Interestingly when I bought my NW Pajero 3.2 second hand it had a 490cca and started fine, always a good thing to know. But a few months later changed it to to the 810cca. It is my understanding the 810cca is a requirement for models with twin A/C, and any excuse to get a bigger battery 🤣
defo.
@@DENMONKEY Your doing great work Denmonkey, thankyou for your reply on a 2 year old story! Your videos are very helpful and more importantly you are a very genuine down to earth bloke to be doing this for others to know and learn. In a world of people that would sell their own mothers to make a buck🤑I say thankyou for your efforts mate.
the plastic battery tray in the paj doesn't like corrugations, I use a strap in mine until i get around to fixing it
After going through 2 trays, I replaced the starting tray with a steel one off eBay. Very happy with it.
@@shanes667did you have to make any mods to it? My battery tray is trashed
You need a little $20 solar trickle charger for your battery, I have one on my Kawasaki z500
Yes, I need to set on up with an anderson plug and have one on the bullbar and just plug it in.
Parasitic draw? Get a multimeter and set to 200mv and put it across the metal in fuses in your fuse block anything above like 15 -20 MV is like an amp or half amp draw
I'm all good. turns out it was just the battery on its way out. I picked up a amp clamp meter but it doesn't go down low enough to register microvolts. Even Jaycar didn't have anything that would do that for 12v. I've got my old multi which will work for just doing the fuse test but I need to get some new leads for it. I'm always breaking those bloody things. going to get a good set this time.
@@DENMONKEY oh yeah, with multi Meters they need to update them like nut and bolt or solder the test pins on
Love your vids but what your reason for taking the positive off first makes no sense.Taking the negative off first takes away the possbility of shorting out on the chassis.
Put a bit of vaseline on the terminals to stop corrosion
I used all my vadoline 😁
@@DENMONKEY vadoline? is that a special type of lube? lol :P