Thanks but I can't claim it as my own. That hack's been around almost as long as Daisy's have been. If you like to see a pretty remarkable assemblage of similar hacks/tweaks/mods for the redoubtable Red Ryder then cruise by this thread over at The High Road by Cobalt327 www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/putting-a-little-more-power-in-a-15-00-daisy.807316/ I think it's best source on the internet for Daisy mods and how to's. Thanks for watching!
Hello. I had a question for you last night. I would like to know if you ever reworked the newer Daisy 225 Pump? I bought the daisy 225 without the shot tube. This model I think uses the shot tube as in the Daisy Red Rider. I am hoping for help finding the shot tube not the older daisy Pump 25 magazine tube. Also the bushings for the air compression and the line up bushing in the barrel. So I guess I watch this site for an answer.....
Wayne, I put up a response over at your other post. Let me know once you get the abutment out so we can determine if the Model 225 shot tube assembly is the same diameter as the current production Red Ryder shot tube assembly. I'm also wondering if the shot tubes themselves are the same length or if the Model 255 is a bit shorter. Here's the response to the other post;; RestOModDaisy 4 minutes ago I think you're refering to the Daisy Model 225 pump action repeater that superseded the Model 25 for a bit from 1994 to 1996. The Model 225 was a departure from the original Model 25 in that it does not use the removable 50 round spring loaded shot tube but instead was equipped with a fixed abutment/shot tube assemble which turned it into a "rattletrap" Daisy that could hold quite a few more BB's than the original design. The shot tube assembly looks like the same one that is used by the current production Model 1938B Red Ryder but there may be slight differences. J&G does offer a replacement shot tube assembly for the Model 225, you can see it here: www.jgairguns.biz/225-c-78_186_212/dai225af-feed-assembly-p-11510.html If the abutment assembly is still present in the reciever, it is possilble to drive it out by lightly tapping it towards the rear of the gun. Installing a replacement is the reverse of removal but be sure to orient the feed slot on the replacement shot tube/abutment assembly so you can see it in the viewing port on the top of the reciever. Similar to this: th-cam.com/video/y8ZcUp7pmy8/w-d-xo.html
Really Enjoyed This Video. I Have A Red Ryder I Got As A Kid In The 70's. Over The Years It Has Just Sit And As All Things Go Like This Break Down Here And There. Now Would Like To Have It Restored To It's Former Glory And Watching You Work On These Classics I Have To Ask Do You Offer Restoration Services? Thank You
Myoption, Sure How far do you want to go with it? First step would be to send some pictures to "thesocietyforprofit@gmail.com" as this forum isn't really suitable for pix and such. If you can take a picture of the left and right sides of the receiver and a pic of the muzzle. And we'll go from there.
Thanks for the video tips, Shane. I was given a rusty/crusty Red Ryder No. 111 Model 40 built-in Plymouth, MI. Your videos helped me to clean it up and make it look usable for the grandkids to learn with. I stopped short of removing the plunger assembly. I was trying to date it. It has a brass-colored band on the muzzle end, bottle-cap fill tube, an iron low hinge cocking lever, it has no rear sight, just the two ears of the retainer. Can you tell me from this about when it was made?
A couple of pictures could clear this up quick, one of the right side, one of the left side, a close up of the band on the end of the muzzle and a close up of the top stock screw. Does the gun still have a wooden fore arm and if so does it have the band on it? From your description you might be in possession of a first run #111 Model 40 produced from 1940 to 1942 when Daisy converted over to war production and quit making BB guns. These guns are highly sought after and can bring pretty good money based on condition so I would not start any restoration work on it until you decide to keep or flip it. I'd love to see some pix, you can send them to "thesocietyforprofit@gmail.com" and we can see what you have.
Hi Shane, your videos are great! Thanks! Is the abutment seal supposed to stay connected to the abutment washer(inside the barrel)? Or does the seal come out with the plunger assembly? Red Ryder No 111 Mod 40 built in Plymouth, MI. with bottle top, rattle trap, dual port tophat air tube, cast iron low pivot lever.
Jim, The abutment washer is a metal disk that serves to mount the bottle cap via a threaded hole. It stays in the gun unless driven out. The abutment seal lays up against it and is held in place by two small dimples on the underside of the compression chamber right next to the abutment washer. In your gun both seals are leather and it's not uncommon for the abutment seal to dry out and stick to the compression cup seal after long periods of storage. If the abutment seal slid out with the plunger assembly, gently separate the two and oil the snot out of them if they appear to be serviceable. If they're both pretty deteriorated then you can get a new set for J&G Airguns via ebay for about $11. I have a video on how to dismount the compression seal from the top hat assembly somewhere in my video labyrinth.
@@RestOModDaisy Thanks sooo much! Really appreciate your help. Looks like the abutment seal had separated from the abutment washer from damage by metal fragments. I found them inside between the abutment washer and seal. The fragments had damaged the leather seal and scored the top hat air tube sides and open end. After re-installing the washer, the dimples are holding the leather seal nicely. Also firing much better! I can feel more force and the bb's really fly! This also improved the accuracy. The leather abutment seal must have been floating in the compression chamber causing various compression rates, mostly bad.
Excellent video! Have you made any videos demonstrating how to remove that whole main spring, compression head, plunger tube assembly? I looked and couldnt find one.
@@RestOModDaisy that would be great! Lots of junk videos out there. But I definitely think yours are very easy to watch/follow. I would like to do a restore on my dads old BB gun. Its circa 1958-ish.
@@patrickcleland6065 That's great! Legacy guns are where it's at. I like to think that every time you pick up your BB gun and fire it, it gets a dab of good karma slapped on it and guns that have been in circulation as long as your's has have a giant vat of good karma. Keep shootin'!
@@georgegray8968 , I've got one out but isn't labeled as such. I'll put that on the list as a stand alone vid but most of that process is covered by the video titled: Daisy Red Ryder Model 94: Part 2 Disassembly you can find it here th-cam.com/video/Yir699E3DWE/w-d-xo.html The bit you're interested in starts about 4 minutes into the video.
I'm trying to "clean up" a model 1894 that I've had in a closet since probably the '80s after getting enthusiastic watching first one then several of your videos. (so this is all your fault!) What kind of lubricant would you recommend for the plunger washer? Thank You.
Daisy routinely states that 30wt non detergent oil is the lubricant they prefer. I've used a wide range of penetrating oils in some situations like frozen/rusted nuts but usually just stick with the 30 wt ND oil for internals. The Model 1894 is a bit different from other Daisy lever action models in that they chose to use a tapered compression cylinder in that design. There's a considerably body on the Model 1894 and it's issues at the Daisy Talk forum as well as the High Road Forum. An example: forum.daisymuseum.com/1894-plunger-pin-caution_topic9789_post41849.html?KW=Daisy+1894#41849 Since the plunger head (or washer) is internal, I'd use the recommended 30 Weight Non-detergent oil.
Ok, Shane... I received my #111 Model 40 Red Ryder today, and it has no abutment washer. The little bit of remaining leather seal is in very bad shape, but the shot tube seems to work. The spring is sacked too. Where can I find replacement parts to fix it, or shall I send it to you? I'd like a crack at it, but it needs serious help. Thanks, Cap'n Joe.
You got the chops for that. Head over to Cobalt 327 on the 'Bay and get a model 25 seal set, current production overbore air tube and a new spring. If you want new wood or fireblueing you can send it on in but the stock set and receiver you posted over on Instagram looks pretty good already.
@@RestOModDaisy Thank you, kind sir! I'm on it. It's a bit tighter inside the receiver than I expected. Can I use the high-powered spring in it as well? I've tricked out a couple of guns so far with new springs and air tubes. Not terribly difficult with the right tools and your easy to follow tutorials.
If you're rebuilding a #111 Model 40 you can use the current production seal sets for the Daisy Model 25. They not expensive but will require the substitution of a current production airetube for the older top hat model that the gun was issued with. If you want to replace the leather seals, JG airguns had some a while back in the $15 range. It's not a terrible job to do and I've got a video on that process somewhere.
Hi, I have a nice clean number 102 model 36. I would like to have it inspected and updated by a knowledgeable professional. Can you please provide your contact information. Thank you.
Great idea with the caulking gun...
Thanks but I can't claim it as my own. That hack's been around almost as long as Daisy's have been. If you like to see a pretty remarkable assemblage of similar hacks/tweaks/mods for the redoubtable Red Ryder then cruise by this thread over at The High Road by Cobalt327
www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/putting-a-little-more-power-in-a-15-00-daisy.807316/
I think it's best source on the internet for Daisy mods and how to's.
Thanks for watching!
Wonderful videos, Please keep up the good work.
Thanks for watching!
Wish they still made them like this
Hello. I had a question for you last night. I would like to know if you ever reworked the newer Daisy 225 Pump? I bought the daisy 225 without the shot tube. This model I think uses the shot tube as in the Daisy Red Rider. I am hoping for help finding the shot tube not the older daisy Pump 25 magazine tube. Also the bushings for the air compression and the line up bushing in the barrel. So I guess I watch this site for an answer.....
Wayne, I put up a response over at your other post. Let me know once you get the abutment out so we can determine if the Model 225 shot tube assembly is the same diameter as the current production Red Ryder shot tube assembly. I'm also wondering if the shot tubes themselves are the same length or if the Model 255 is a bit shorter.
Here's the response to the other post;;
RestOModDaisy
4 minutes ago
I think you're refering to the Daisy Model 225 pump action repeater that superseded the Model 25 for a bit from 1994 to 1996. The Model 225 was a departure from the original Model 25 in that it does not use the removable 50 round spring loaded shot tube but instead was equipped with a fixed abutment/shot tube assemble which turned it into a "rattletrap" Daisy that could hold quite a few more BB's than the original design. The shot tube assembly looks like the same one that is used by the current production Model 1938B Red Ryder but there may be slight differences. J&G does offer a replacement shot tube assembly for the Model 225, you can see it here:
www.jgairguns.biz/225-c-78_186_212/dai225af-feed-assembly-p-11510.html
If the abutment assembly is still present in the reciever, it is possilble to drive it out by lightly tapping it towards the rear of the gun. Installing a replacement is the reverse of removal but be sure to orient the feed slot on the replacement shot tube/abutment assembly so you can see it in the viewing port on the top of the reciever.
Similar to this:
th-cam.com/video/y8ZcUp7pmy8/w-d-xo.html
Really Enjoyed This Video. I Have A Red Ryder I Got As A Kid In The 70's. Over The Years It Has Just Sit And As All Things Go Like This Break Down Here And There. Now Would Like To Have It Restored To It's Former Glory And Watching You Work On These Classics I Have To Ask Do You Offer Restoration Services?
Thank You
Myoption, Sure How far do you want to go with it? First step would be to send some pictures to "thesocietyforprofit@gmail.com" as this forum isn't really suitable for pix and such. If you can take a picture of the left and right sides of the receiver and a pic of the muzzle. And we'll go from there.
@@RestOModDaisy
Thank You, Will Do.
Your awesome
Thanks!
Thanks for the video tips, Shane. I was given a rusty/crusty Red Ryder No. 111 Model 40 built-in Plymouth, MI.
Your videos helped me to clean it up and make it look usable for the grandkids to learn with. I stopped short of removing the plunger assembly.
I was trying to date it. It has a brass-colored band on the muzzle end, bottle-cap fill tube, an iron low hinge cocking lever, it has no rear sight, just the two ears of the retainer.
Can you tell me from this about when it was made?
A couple of pictures could clear this up quick, one of the right side, one of the left side, a close up of the band on the end of the muzzle and a close up of the top stock screw. Does the gun still have a wooden fore arm and if so does it have the band on it? From your description you might be in possession of a first run #111 Model 40 produced from 1940 to 1942 when Daisy converted over to war production and quit making BB guns. These guns are highly sought after and can bring pretty good money based on condition so I would not start any restoration work on it until you decide to keep or flip it.
I'd love to see some pix, you can send them to "thesocietyforprofit@gmail.com" and we can see what you have.
@@RestOModDaisy email sent
Hi Shane, also want to ask you what oil is good. Can WD40 suffice for the compression chamber? I believe it is of fish oil base.
Hi Shane, your videos are great! Thanks! Is the abutment seal supposed to stay connected to the abutment washer(inside the barrel)? Or does the seal come out with the plunger assembly? Red Ryder No 111 Mod 40 built in Plymouth, MI. with bottle top, rattle trap, dual port tophat air tube, cast iron low pivot lever.
Jim, The abutment washer is a metal disk that serves to mount the bottle cap via a threaded hole. It stays in the gun unless driven out. The abutment seal lays up against it and is held in place by two small dimples on the underside of the compression chamber right next to the abutment washer. In your gun both seals are leather and it's not uncommon for the abutment seal to dry out and stick to the compression cup seal after long periods of storage. If the abutment seal slid out with the plunger assembly, gently separate the two and oil the snot out of them if they appear to be serviceable. If they're both pretty deteriorated then you can get a new set for J&G Airguns via ebay for about $11. I have a video on how to dismount the compression seal from the top hat assembly somewhere in my video labyrinth.
@@RestOModDaisy Thanks sooo much! Really appreciate your help. Looks like the abutment seal had separated from the abutment washer from damage by metal fragments. I found them inside between the abutment washer and seal. The fragments had damaged the leather seal and scored the top hat air tube sides and open end.
After re-installing the washer, the dimples are holding the leather seal nicely. Also firing much better! I can feel more force and the bb's really fly! This also improved the accuracy. The leather abutment seal must have been floating in the compression chamber causing various compression rates, mostly bad.
Excellent video! Have you made any videos demonstrating how to remove that whole main spring, compression head, plunger tube assembly? I looked and couldnt find one.
Patrick,
I think I have as a subset of some other video but can't recall which one. I'll put that topic on the list and get crackin' on it.
@@RestOModDaisy that would be great! Lots of junk videos out there. But I definitely think yours are very easy to watch/follow. I would like to do a restore on my dads old BB gun. Its circa 1958-ish.
@@patrickcleland6065 That's great! Legacy guns are where it's at. I like to think that every time you pick up your BB gun and fire it, it gets a dab of good karma slapped on it and guns that have been in circulation as long as your's has have a giant vat of good karma. Keep shootin'!
@@RestOModDaisy I would like to see a video detailing removal of the power plant as well. Thanks
@@georgegray8968 , I've got one out but isn't labeled as such. I'll put that on the list as a stand alone vid but most of that process is covered by the video titled: Daisy Red Ryder Model 94: Part 2 Disassembly you can find it here
th-cam.com/video/Yir699E3DWE/w-d-xo.html
The bit you're interested in starts about 4 minutes into the video.
I'm trying to "clean up" a model 1894 that I've had in a closet since probably the '80s after getting enthusiastic watching first one then several of your videos. (so this is all your fault!) What kind of lubricant would you recommend for the plunger washer? Thank You.
Daisy routinely states that 30wt non detergent oil is the lubricant they prefer. I've used a wide range of penetrating oils in some situations like frozen/rusted nuts but usually just stick with the 30 wt ND oil for internals. The Model 1894 is a bit different from other Daisy lever action models in that they chose to use a tapered compression cylinder in that design. There's a considerably body on the Model 1894 and it's issues at the Daisy Talk forum as well as the High Road Forum. An example:
forum.daisymuseum.com/1894-plunger-pin-caution_topic9789_post41849.html?KW=Daisy+1894#41849
Since the plunger head (or washer) is internal, I'd use the recommended 30 Weight Non-detergent oil.
@@RestOModDaisy Thank You.
Ok, Shane... I received my #111 Model 40 Red Ryder today, and it has no abutment washer. The little bit of remaining leather seal is in very bad shape, but the shot tube seems to work. The spring is sacked too. Where can I find replacement parts to fix it, or shall I send it to you? I'd like a crack at it, but it needs serious help. Thanks, Cap'n Joe.
You got the chops for that. Head over to Cobalt 327 on the 'Bay and get a model 25 seal set, current production overbore air tube and a new spring. If you want new wood or fireblueing you can send it on in but the stock set and receiver you posted over on Instagram looks pretty good already.
@@RestOModDaisy Thank you, kind sir! I'm on it. It's a bit tighter inside the receiver than I expected. Can I use the high-powered spring in it as well? I've tricked out a couple of guns so far with new springs and air tubes. Not terribly difficult with the right tools and your easy to follow tutorials.
So the pin on my gun fell out what do i do won’t shoot
I'll need a bit more detail. Which model Daisy have you got? You are referring to the compression cup pin, right?
What modern seals are used to replace the leather ones?
If you're rebuilding a #111 Model 40 you can use the current production seal sets for the Daisy Model 25. They not expensive but will require the substitution of a current production airetube for the older top hat model that the gun was issued with. If you want to replace the leather seals, JG airguns had some a while back in the $15 range. It's not a terrible job to do and I've got a video on that process somewhere.
@@RestOModDaisy So I would need model 25 seal kit and a model 25 air tube? The shot tube can stay original?....... Thank you for your help
@@billiewright7532 Certainly! If you want to replace it with a Model 25 shot tube you could do that as well.
Hi, I have a nice clean number 102 model 36. I would like to have it inspected and updated by a knowledgeable professional. Can you please provide your contact information. Thank you.
You can contact me at "thesocietyforprofit@gmail.com"
How do I take it out tho
Aemilius, I cover removal of the spring block in another video
th-cam.com/video/Yir699E3DWE/w-d-xo.html
Were can I get replacement parts?
JG, What kind of parts are you looking for? New springs? Or do you need vintage parts like levers etc.?
@@RestOModDaisy I need the plunger head, the one that came out of the gun is made of rubber and leather.
@@jesusg.4454 OK, which model Daisy? Is it a Plymouth MI gun or one from Rodgers Ark?