Beautiful and clear explanation as usual. Thank you very much. I have a question about the CR10, is it also modified with all metal hotend? If yes, how do you deal with printing with PLA because I have never succeeded in printing with it after modifying to all metal hot end?
The issue with the all metal heat break is the retraction. You have to really LOWER the retraction rate (distance), especially with PLA. Otherwise you're pulling hot plastic into a cold part of the break, and it starts to stick. On my Ender 3 v2 (Bowden Tube system), I was using 6.5mm as the distance (prior to the change). After I installed the all metal break, it began to clog about 10 minutes into the print. After a little research, found that I needed to lower that. I think I went back to around 2mm? But you'd have to do a little testing on your own setup.
Beautiful and clear explanation as usual. Thank you very much. I have a question about the CR10, is it also modified with all metal hotend? If yes, how do you deal with printing with PLA because I have never succeeded in printing with it after modifying to all metal hot end?
The issue with the all metal heat break is the retraction. You have to really LOWER the retraction rate (distance), especially with PLA. Otherwise you're pulling hot plastic into a cold part of the break, and it starts to stick. On my Ender 3 v2 (Bowden Tube system), I was using 6.5mm as the distance (prior to the change). After I installed the all metal break, it began to clog about 10 minutes into the print. After a little research, found that I needed to lower that. I think I went back to around 2mm? But you'd have to do a little testing on your own setup.
Hello, how do you manage to remove the excess glue that remains on the bottles when you remove the paper they come with? thank you
Answered on a previous comment. Product called ‘Goo Gone’. It’s available on Amazon.
a.co/d/70hcldL
when new video ?
I'll try to get a new one published early next week.