You are right, time is money that's why its easier to fill twice. Firstly if you over fill the filler will take longer to dry than a thinner coat and when filling twice the second fill dries very quick as its only a thin layer of filler. If you over fill you will spend more time sanding. I have seen too many mistakes when over filling, people sand it smooth but in reality it ends up a lump with smooth edges. Patching should not been seen when done correctly.
what type of plaster are you using? I just started picking up small paint and prep jobs. and use easy sand 5 & 20. Open to any new suggestions or products
You can still fill the holes as shown in this video just take the safety precautions when sanding. Generally all patching should come out smooth as long as you sand it smooth. It will depend on the fill you use but 180 grit should be ok. As for the sealer for the lead paint, basically any new coat of paint applied to the surface is a barrier, as far as I know lead won't leach though the surface.
I'm not sure exactly what you mean, there are lots of different type of materials used for ceiling tiles so its hard to say without seeing it. My suggestion would be to use a base coat filler like they use on plaster board/drywall, this dries hard. Once again its hard to say exactly as I don't know how big the hole is but you could use the filler and apply several coats, don't try to fill the hole in one go as if you over fill it will be hard to sand. Use a two part filler if its made of wood.
Generally I use base coat, it's the filling compound used when flushing plaster board. Base coat is the first filler used when applying the tape to plaster board joins, some painter prefer cornice adhesive and some even use top coat (used for final coat on plaster board joins). Personally I find top coat too soft and that's why I used base coat, just remember not to over fill, it is a lot easier to apply a second coat of filler then having to sand off lots of excess filler.
+Sarain Gomez The filler I used is base coat, it is the filler used for flushing plaster board. You can buy other powder fillers from paint supply shops or hardware's. Don't forget to, like, share and subscribe.
Hi im planing on painting my room but all the wals have left over holes from drilling and shelves, but that i kind of know how to handle. One wall though has wallpaper and I'm hesitant if i should rip it off cause i dont know if it will leave texture. And another wall has some kind of base wallpaper that has been paintet but the top is riped of and i do no think that this paper is ever meant to be ripped of but the texture differs a lot and i am looking for any advise
The wallpaper that hasn't been painted over should come of but you will need to remove it all and any glue residue. The wallpaper that has been painted over could be an issue, where it is ripped see if it goes back to the substrate, either solid plaster or plaster board. There is a chance you can remove it but it will take a lot of work. Some wallpapers are designed to be painted over to leave a pattern effect on the wall but they are harder to remove. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
All you can do is try to fill a group of holes at one time by using a wider filling blade. Paint may fill some of the holes depending on how big they are.
Hi mate I've done this on my walls but after applying the finish coat paint it's left shiney patches. I then put a primer and sanded the are down again but yet again still seeing patches any advice?
Ive already filled cracks and painted twice but the texture on wall and filled part does not match Difference can be seen when looked closely What is the solution
Hard to say without seeing it but if the walls were rolled with a long nap roller and left some texture to the walls then that could be the problem because when you filled the walls you filled the texture of the roller stipple so it stands out as a smoother spot. Or maybe you didn't sand enough, hope this is of some help. Don't forget to Like, Share & Subscribe
There are several ways paint can be removed, from timber surfaces either paint stripper or a heat gun and burn it off. Metal surfaces can be done the same way or you could grind off the paint. For masonry surfaces (brick etc) it would be easier to call in the professionals, they will chemically remove the paint using a commercial grade paint stripper and pressure washing. I'm a little unsure what you mean about using stucco as paint
Lead paint was banned in 1978 so the chances are your house has been repainted since then so this may not be an issue for you. You can buy lead test kits and they are not expensive. I'm not fully up to date with all aspects of lead paint but as far as I know its only an issue if you sand it but if you wear protective clothing and have the area sealed off and clean up thoroughly then its not an issue. So filling the holes is not the issue its just when you go to sand them.
In the UK pound shops sell them. I dont know what part of the World You reside in but I would imagine many cheap stores may also have them. Hear in the UK the store is called poundland and pound world. They are great and only £1 for a pack of 3
I am currently painting a room and have filled/patched areas of various sizes but I am having to do 3 or 4 skims since the filler shrinks so much (ICI Pollyfilla,UK) I follow the box instructions any tips or recommendations of type/brand of filler to use?
I have a question, so my house is old and I don't know how to fix a hole from when my young brothers were wresteling, my walls are made of a type of ceiling tile? I know weird right?! I don't know how to fix it, any suggestions?
Couldn't you just overfill rather than do it twice? Most fillers are reasonably easy to sand even if the filler's a little thick. Time is money. Waiting for filler to dry twice...hmm.
One thin coat dry's quicker than a thick coat so most of the time you can refill just as quick because you don't need to wait long before refiling. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
I don't understand how people can't understand people with accents, no doubt I know where they are from 🙄 understand you fine mate. Thanks for the tips
Second nature to a decorator, but to some first-timers, it would've looked better not filling holes in first place 😂 (obviously, it was my mate who was struggling, of course 😐).
Thanks, I do worry at times when people complain about not understanding me so thanks for your positive comment. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
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You are right, time is money that's why its easier to fill twice. Firstly if you over fill the filler will take longer to dry than a thinner coat and when filling twice the second fill dries very quick as its only a thin layer of filler. If you over fill you will spend more time sanding. I have seen too many mistakes when over filling, people sand it smooth but in reality it ends up a lump with smooth edges. Patching should not been seen when done correctly.
Facts! I made this mistake. How do I fix it? The lump
what type of plaster are you using? I just started picking up small paint and prep jobs. and use easy sand 5 & 20. Open to any new suggestions or products
I always use base coat, it dry's quick and it's reasonable to sand.
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Cool, and what grade sandpaper do you use to sand the filler?
Normally a soft 120 grit.
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You can still fill the holes as shown in this video just take the safety precautions when sanding. Generally all patching should come out smooth as long as you sand it smooth. It will depend on the fill you use but 180 grit should be ok. As for the sealer for the lead paint, basically any new coat of paint applied to the surface is a barrier, as far as I know lead won't leach though the surface.
Thank you for the great 1 minute video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
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I'm not sure exactly what you mean, there are lots of different type of materials used for ceiling tiles so its hard to say without seeing it. My suggestion would be to use a base coat filler like they use on plaster board/drywall, this dries hard. Once again its hard to say exactly as I don't know how big the hole is but you could use the filler and apply several coats, don't try to fill the hole in one go as if you over fill it will be hard to sand. Use a two part filler if its made of wood.
Generally I use base coat, it's the filling compound used when flushing plaster board. Base coat is the first filler used when applying the tape to plaster board joins, some painter prefer cornice adhesive and some even use top coat (used for final coat on plaster board joins). Personally I find top coat too soft and that's why I used base coat, just remember not to over fill, it is a lot easier to apply a second coat of filler then having to sand off lots of excess filler.
What is the name of that filling material that u used to fill in the holes ? Where could i buy it?
+Sarain Gomez
The filler I used is base coat, it is the filler used for flushing plaster board. You can buy other powder fillers from paint supply shops or hardware's.
Don't forget to, like, share and subscribe.
Depends on the filler, personally I use a soft 120 grit.
Plz would u tell me the best way to remove old paint and can I use stucco for paint
Hi im planing on painting my room but all the wals have left over holes from drilling and shelves, but that i kind of know how to handle. One wall though has wallpaper and I'm hesitant if i should rip it off cause i dont know if it will leave texture. And another wall has some kind of base wallpaper that has been paintet but the top is riped of and i do no think that this paper is ever meant to be ripped of but the texture differs a lot and i am looking for any advise
The wallpaper that hasn't been painted over should come of but you will need to remove it all and any glue residue.
The wallpaper that has been painted over could be an issue, where it is ripped see if it goes back to the substrate, either solid plaster or plaster board. There is a chance you can remove it but it will take a lot of work. Some wallpapers are designed to be painted over to leave a pattern effect on the wall but they are harder to remove.
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Do you have to use a Primer when painting over filler?
Its best to seal the patch first of you can and will end up with a dry spot where the patch is.
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All you can do is try to fill a group of holes at one time by using a wider filling blade. Paint may fill some of the holes depending on how big they are.
Cant understand anything you're saying might as well be in Chinese. But what is that paste you used ? Is it spackle?
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Hi mate I've done this on my walls but after applying the finish coat paint it's left shiney patches. I then put a primer and sanded the are down again but yet again still seeing patches any advice?
So you patched the wall and then what did you do, spot prime patches , apply 1 or two top coats?
about how long will it take for the first layer to dry
30 minutes if it is only small dents etc, depending on the filler you use.
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Ive already filled cracks and painted twice but the texture on wall and filled part does not match
Difference can be seen when looked closely
What is the solution
Hard to say without seeing it but if the walls were rolled with a long nap roller and left some texture to the walls then that could be the problem because when you filled the walls you filled the texture of the roller stipple so it stands out as a smoother spot. Or maybe you didn't sand enough, hope this is of some help.
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Why the area I use filler still visible after 3 paints?
What type of filler did you use and did you sand the filler so it shouldn't stand out when painted?
There are several ways paint can be removed, from timber surfaces either paint stripper or a heat gun and burn it off. Metal surfaces can be done the same way or you could grind off the paint. For masonry surfaces (brick etc) it would be easier to call in the professionals, they will chemically remove the paint using a commercial grade paint stripper and pressure washing.
I'm a little unsure what you mean about using stucco as paint
Lead paint was banned in 1978 so the chances are your house has been repainted since then so this may not be an issue for you. You can buy lead test kits and they are not expensive. I'm not fully up to date with all aspects of lead paint but as far as I know its only an issue if you sand it but if you wear protective clothing and have the area sealed off and clean up thoroughly then its not an issue. So filling the holes is not the issue its just when you go to sand them.
Where did you get those mud blades I want them
Most paint retailers should sell them.
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In the UK pound shops sell them.
I dont know what part of the World You reside in but I would imagine many cheap stores may also have them.
Hear in the UK the store is called poundland and pound world.
They are great and only £1 for a pack of 3
Could you show it painted i keep getting flashing
you need to touch up your patches first then apply the top coats and you will need two coats.
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good video i recommend it to friends
Thanks.
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Is that sandpaper he's using
Yes I do use sandpaper unlike other people.
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I am currently painting a room and have filled/patched areas of various sizes but I am having to do 3 or 4 skims since the filler shrinks so much (ICI Pollyfilla,UK) I follow the box instructions any tips or recommendations of type/brand of filler to use?
ZanderKaneUK did you find an answer
Light purpose will solve ur problem. Less shrinking and faster dry time.
I use basecoat, its what is used for plaster board/drywall joints.
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I have a question, so my house is old and I don't know how to fix a hole from when my young brothers were wresteling, my walls are made of a type of ceiling tile? I know weird right?! I don't know how to fix it, any suggestions?
Your walls are made of acoustic ceiling tiles?? Maybe you can replace them. I don't think it's that expensive
What filler do you recommend
I just use basecoat, easy to use and cheaper to buy unless you only want a small amount of filler.
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howtopaintinfo I noticed there is an uneven in the texture even after sanding between the part I used filler and old drywall. Is this normal?
What if I already painted and the patches still show?
You will need to do it again.
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What was used to fill?
Basecoat, they use it for flushing plaster board.
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Couldn't you just overfill rather than do it twice? Most fillers are reasonably easy to sand even if the filler's a little thick. Time is money. Waiting for filler to dry twice...hmm.
pbaylis1 use a hot mud and u can recoat in shorter periods of time either 5,20,45,60,90 min time settings.
One thin coat dry's quicker than a thick coat so most of the time you can refill just as quick because you don't need to wait long before refiling.
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Second fill after a quick sand. There's always something else to fill
I don't understand how people can't understand people with accents, no doubt I know where they are from 🙄 understand you fine mate. Thanks for the tips
Thanks..
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Oh gosh I wish I had underfilled :( hell to sand back.
Yes it is when you over fill..
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can use mud on a wall that's been painting
Yes but make sure you sand the surrounding area just to be sure it sticks.
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Preperation is everything foamy! Fingers crossed u havnt got the painters in on friday! Dirty dreams 😤😤😤
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Thanks bud uk
No worries,
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Hey people don’t worry about he’s accent Just look at the fucking job
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Second nature to a decorator, but to some first-timers, it would've looked better not filling holes in first place 😂 (obviously, it was my mate who was struggling, of course 😐).
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English is not even my first language and I understamd him just fine
Thanks, I do worry at times when people complain about not understanding me so thanks for your positive comment.
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his accent is Australian I'm pretty sure.
Yep, i'm Australian.
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Inaudible
no it isn't. I bet you're American? you guys live in one hell of a bubble
Well said mate!
don't put everyone in the same bubble. don't know what people are talking about, very easy to understand. yes i live in the U.S.
Thanks..
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its harder to understand his accent
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I could not understand his accent.
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@@howtopaintinfo Learn to speak clearly first.
@@KarenNewtonCanada He speaks clearly
@@KarenNewtonCanada how rude lol. Open your ears! Or just watch what he's doing haha
i dont have one of those fillers tools anything else i could use?? i beet using a sponge. lol
You could always by some, they are not expensive.
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I love how they show like magic🪄
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