I had to do this myself and followed your step by step process. My daft next door neighbor thought he found a secret room at his place. It was my apartment he found. 😂
The first patch was the only way to fo a patch. Keeps you from chopping and hacking up the wall attempting to land on the dead center of a stud...only to then start chopping and slicing only to hit screws. Cut it neatly, add plenty of 1×4" slats as long as will fit into the wall and then fit your new piece. Fitment will be flush and smooth so you're able to finish it faster and less high and low spots that can be visible. The slats reinforce the patch in case something strikes the spot again and will also distribute the impact outwards from that spot into the surrounding area. Do a hot patch and not only are they visible in person, but if something bumps it, it will fall apart. If it has a hole there now...the chances of it getting hit again are likely.
Hey mad man nice job bro I was in the painting trades for 40 yrs. I'm retired now. I can see you know what you're doing. God bless and be safe on the job site.
This was actually one of the better videos done. Glad to see the weird cradle technique or whatever it is with the tape behind the patch actually get tape on the cracks after. A video went around of a clown patching with only the strap part and no tape on the joints. Pissed me off sufficiently.
He's been at it a while is what I learned. He's good at his trade. I've done pretty much or seen everything he showed but I'm not as skilled. I don't do it for a living either. My past was in remodeling but that's been a while . Pulling the back off and leaving the paper to make a patch works great.
As an expert in wallboard, do not learn from this guys videos. Nearly everything he did was wrong and/ or hacked. The first patch was the only decent one, but even there he put 3 screws on patch sides and only 2 on the wall holding the strapping. This guy is a taper at best. Definitely knows little about board hanging. If u did any of those California (paper held) patches on my company, you'd be fired immediately. I do high end properties and this guy would not last a day. The patch he did where he put tape into it and let it curve back as a backing will 100% fail and move in. That will not look like a smooth wall.
@@WickedLobstah978 I had to remove my towel rack because it started to fail on one side. There is not a full hole, but th drywall started to break from the weight of the towels on the towel rack. How can I fix it? I want to get a longer rack that I can screw into the studs instead of the drywall, but I want to repair the areas that had the old rack attached to it.
@@shegegirl they have these new steel mesh patches that u can buy at HomeDrpot or Lowes. They are very thin and square.theyvare about 6 inches. Put one of those over the hole and use joint compound and a putty knife. Hit it once, let it dry. Then hit it again and sand it before painting. It's easier than it sounds. You can't watch TH-cam videos on it.. u can fix it for about $15 without paint. If u need paint, peel apiece of the wall off near the patch and HomeDepot andLowes can match it. You would only need a quart and that's more than enough. Save yourself a lot of money by doing it yourself
The last one, you pre drilled the holes. Removing paper on the top surface. Was that to decrease torque from the screws so that they wouldn't strip the drywall being used as a backing?
When I make patches I cut the drywall one tape width wide and remove the paper. This allows the new paper or mesh, I prefer mesh, to sit flush with the existing drywall. This allows the patch to be virtually invisible. Also, put your screws that hold the wood backing with in the tape. This will prevent any unsightly circles when you have finished.
I feel like the 1st and 4th method was the best but missing a step of drying and sanding before doing the last step where you're adding the finishing paste and spreading across an area 2-3x the size of the whole to make it all blend.
I'm no expert at all but I know I learned a lot just to fill in those holes. I'm not too worried about the bubbles at the moment. I just know I have a few holes to fill in before the landlord comes over 😅
Easy enough....first carve out some of the drywall on both sides of the crack so it now looks like a "v". Mix up some 20 minute setting compound (also known as "hot mud") and fill in the crack and a couple of inches on either side of the crack. Then cut off an appropriate length of paper tape or Fina fuse (as this guy did) and put it over the entire length of the crack and bury it as the video shows. Then finish it off with regular joint compound after the hot mud has hardened a bit. You can start the job with a 6 inch knife and finish it with a 10 or 12 inch knife. Just make sure you finish it wide like 10 to 12 inches, otherwise you're going to have a hump in your wall.
The fisrt method is the most solid, but I prefer just cutting it wider stud to stud. My kids would just put another hole right where the first one was if there's no backing. If it was just me and my wife, I'd do one of the quick hack methods though. Depends on the household.
The patch only has to be as strong as the original drywall was (cardboard and chalk). Seems like the best solution is the second one, especially if there is a way to bond the edges of the chalk on the patch and the wall.
The first technique ive used many times, especially in situations where the home owner tried to mount something on a section of wall without studs and it eventually ripped out of the wall. Those makeshift wooden supports will give enough support that the home owner can re-mount the fixture into the wood and its much stronger than before. The other techniques...nahhhh, especially the one with just mud behind it.
There are some "patches" however I would not trust those products. Just go buy a sheet of drywall for 12 dollars and do the repair. Now you have extra drywall for larger holes and smaller holes alike.
There are mesh screen patches but places like Home Depot and Lowe's also sell 2ft by 2ft pieces of drywall if you don't want to buy a whole sheet. Make sure you get the right thickness though.
Been doing this for a long time. It's easier to make the hike fit the patch than the other way around. But I also agree with the other poster who said if it's this big then go stud to stud.
Impressive how you show a bunch of different options, but I can’t imagine a reason to do a circular patch if you didn’t need to. Just make the hole square and cut a square patch.
Circular holes because if you're fishing a wire, you can make it with a holesaw and you get to use the plug to plug the hole afterwards. Also, I could be wrong, but I'd guess you're more likely to get cracks on a square patch than a round one maybe?
The best way to do this is to make a California patch using a piece of Sheetrock the exact measurements of the hole and making sure to leave the backing 2 inches wider than the hole to make sure the paper has something to stick to! Simple, quick, and the best way to do it!!
It’s funny that mesh tape has an adhesive on it so you can apply it before you mud it. Also buy a dimpler so you do break the drywall paper when installing your screws.
The pros I've worked with always used paper tape. I think it's faster if you're experienced with it. Objectively, you're right that mesh tape ought to be superior in preventing cracking and saves the step of mudding prior to applying it, but I just don't see it used that often.
They use paper because it's cheaper. The mesh is ok in my opinion, but the adhesive-backed holy paper is the money maker!! Perfect for seamless finishes, in my opinion.
In the UK they used to use hessian, now they use mesh tape... but we tend to have a skimcoat of plaster on the whole wall, rather than just mudding the tape joins.
This is like the ASMR of building works - just amazing, and I've learnt so much. I love channels that enhance positivity and education to help the masses. Thank you! Psyche aka Psyche Thompson UK 🌹
Quite the opposite, it's very stressful. As someone who is in construction industry the techniques and execution is very shady. If I did this to any paying customer I would consider myself a scammer or at the very minimum ripping the customer off.
You should either cut back to the studs or screw your backer wood to both sides of the sheet rock. Otherwise, there will be nothing preventing movement on the existing wall.
1:46 LOVE the added bit with the butterfly patch with removing the wall paper.
I had to do this myself and followed your step by step process. My daft next door neighbor thought he found a secret room at his place. It was my apartment he found. 😂
😅
😂
Nice work showing different techniques for different applications!
The first patch was the only way to fo a patch. Keeps you from chopping and hacking up the wall attempting to land on the dead center of a stud...only to then start chopping and slicing only to hit screws. Cut it neatly, add plenty of 1×4" slats as long as will fit into the wall and then fit your new piece. Fitment will be flush and smooth so you're able to finish it faster and less high and low spots that can be visible. The slats reinforce the patch in case something strikes the spot again and will also distribute the impact outwards from that spot into the surrounding area. Do a hot patch and not only are they visible in person, but if something bumps it, it will fall apart. If it has a hole there now...the chances of it getting hit again are likely.
The first example seemed to be the best method in my opinion.
This guy is a hack
Yeah now he needs to throw that fabric tape away and get some paper tape
@@MelvinWaldronthrow that paper away and get fiba
Usted si sabe sobre el finis,yo hice ese trabajo por mas de veinte años ,felicidades lo esta haciendo bien
Hey mad man nice job bro I was in the painting trades for 40 yrs. I'm retired now. I can see you know what you're doing. God bless and be safe on the job site.
This was actually one of the better videos done. Glad to see the weird cradle technique or whatever it is with the tape behind the patch actually get tape on the cracks after. A video went around of a clown patching with only the strap part and no tape on the joints. Pissed me off sufficiently.
He's been at it a while is what I learned. He's good at his trade. I've done pretty much or seen everything he showed but I'm not as skilled. I don't do it for a living either. My past was in remodeling but that's been a while . Pulling the back off and leaving the paper to make a patch works great.
As an expert in wallboard, do not learn from this guys videos. Nearly everything he did was wrong and/ or hacked. The first patch was the only decent one, but even there he put 3 screws on patch sides and only 2 on the wall holding the strapping. This guy is a taper at best. Definitely knows little about board hanging. If u did any of those California (paper held) patches on my company, you'd be fired immediately. I do high end properties and this guy would not last a day. The patch he did where he put tape into it and let it curve back as a backing will 100% fail and move in. That will not look like a smooth wall.
@@WickedLobstah978 I had to remove my towel rack because it started to fail on one side. There is not a full hole, but th drywall started to break from the weight of the towels on the towel rack. How can I fix it? I want to get a longer rack that I can screw into the studs instead of the drywall, but I want to repair the areas that had the old rack attached to it.
@@shegegirl they have these new steel mesh patches that u can buy at HomeDrpot or Lowes. They are very thin and square.theyvare about 6 inches. Put one of those over the hole and use joint compound and a putty knife. Hit it once, let it dry. Then hit it again and sand it before painting. It's easier than it sounds. You can't watch TH-cam videos on it.. u can fix it for about $15 without paint. If u need paint, peel apiece of the wall off near the patch and HomeDepot andLowes can match it. You would only need a quart and that's more than enough. Save yourself a lot of money by doing it yourself
You CAN watch TH-cam videos on it *
@@WickedLobstah978 I want to know what the best option would be.
The last one, you pre drilled the holes. Removing paper on the top surface. Was that to decrease torque from the screws so that they wouldn't strip the drywall being used as a backing?
Ok that works for unpainted and untextured drywall. How would you patch a hole that had been painted and had knock down texture?
Stick of dynamite
Start over
The same way... But then put a little knock down texture on the patch when it's done.
@@AOMartialArts it never seems to be a good match it always stands out
Different techniques.
Takes finesse and lots of practice. Very hard @@kamelsr
YOU MAKE IT LOOK SO EASY ! GREAT JOB
When I make patches I cut the drywall one tape width wide and remove the paper. This allows the new paper or mesh, I prefer mesh, to sit flush with the existing drywall. This allows the patch to be virtually invisible. Also, put your screws that hold the wood backing with in the tape. This will prevent any unsightly circles when you have finished.
I had not seen the third technique (tape behind the patch). Thanks for teaching me something new!
I feel like the 1st and 4th method was the best but missing a step of drying and sanding before doing the last step where you're adding the finishing paste and spreading across an area 2-3x the size of the whole to make it all blend.
Trust me on this Nothing was done incorrectly I did drywall for 20 years This was all good work
@@larryhullinger4141
Some people have to put their noses into business that they know absolutely nothing about
I always found you need to let first coat tape dry, otherwise tape bubbles without an doubt, I just heat gun, then finish job.
Thank you for this video. I'm ready to fix my wall now.
God bless you.
Thank you for all the different techniques😊😊😊Great video
Great watch. For those of us that are DIYers can you tell us the product being used for the final finish? Thank you.
No wonder these guys make good money doing this type pf work, hes good!
Love the sound of the rain
Really good video bro. Shows a lot of different options. Love it
Next level repair work - fantastic!
Looks good. 🎉
Interesting how those bubbles just disappear with no knife work at all, so what are you editing out?
Sanding after it dries? Heavily edited. Maybe he didn’t show that.
I'm no expert at all but I know I learned a lot just to fill in those holes. I'm not too worried about the bubbles at the moment. I just know I have a few holes to fill in before the landlord comes over 😅
No!! tape then 5min hot mud sorry your Drywall skills suck
Nothing was edited out I spent 20 years doing drywall Mix your mud correctly and you don't have an issue You really don't know what your talking bout
@@larryhullinger4141 Lol, it was OBVIOUSLY edited, bubbles can be fixed, sure, but they don't just magically disappear between strokes
On the first example, would it be posible to use 2 pieces of plasterboard instead of the wooden ones?
When they come back to hang a towel rod. The stud finder gonna throw em for a loop.
Can you do a video in how to correctly repair a huge hole on a textured wall?
Very nice!! Thanks a lot for sharing your tips!
Masterful! Thank you!
Some of the ruffis work i seen
Thanks for the demonstration
The last one is all I needed
All viable techniques for peculiar instances, ive done many of these on tight budget jobs
Wowww really great video sir 👍👍👍
Merci pour votre vidéo, je me demande comment réparer des fissures sur un mur ?
Easy enough....first carve out some of the drywall on both sides of the crack so it now looks like a "v". Mix up some 20 minute setting compound (also known as "hot mud") and fill in the crack and a couple of inches on either side of the crack. Then cut off an appropriate length of paper tape or Fina fuse (as this guy did) and put it over the entire length of the crack and bury it as the video shows. Then finish it off with regular joint compound after the hot mud has hardened a bit. You can start the job with a 6 inch knife and finish it with a 10 or 12 inch knife. Just make sure you finish it wide like 10 to 12 inches, otherwise you're going to have a hump in your wall.
Interesting. So many different ways, kinda like putting a band-aid on it 👍
I love the doorknob repair
Thank you for calming me❤
Satisfying, thank you.
The fisrt method is the most solid, but I prefer just cutting it wider stud to stud. My kids would just put another hole right where the first one was if there's no backing. If it was just me and my wife, I'd do one of the quick hack methods though. Depends on the household.
The patch only has to be as strong as the original drywall was (cardboard and chalk). Seems like the best solution is the second one, especially if there is a way to bond the edges of the chalk on the patch and the wall.
Very helpful video
The first technique ive used many times, especially in situations where the home owner tried to mount something on a section of wall without studs and it eventually ripped out of the wall. Those makeshift wooden supports will give enough support that the home owner can re-mount the fixture into the wood and its much stronger than before. The other techniques...nahhhh, especially the one with just mud behind it.
Been doing this for decades pretty simple after you do it enough times
What should you do if you don't have any drywall to place in a small hole? Are there patches?
There are some "patches" however I would not trust those products. Just go buy a sheet of drywall for 12 dollars and do the repair. Now you have extra drywall for larger holes and smaller holes alike.
There are mesh screen patches but places like Home Depot and Lowe's also sell 2ft by 2ft pieces of drywall if you don't want to buy a whole sheet. Make sure you get the right thickness though.
Been doing this for a long time. It's easier to make the hike fit the patch than the other way around. But I also agree with the other poster who said if it's this big then go stud to stud.
The best drywall video I seen 👍
Muy buen vídeo felicidades 👏 👍 gracias ahora boy aempesar a reparar los hollos k iso mis hijos
Impressive how you show a bunch of different options, but I can’t imagine a reason to do a circular patch if you didn’t need to. Just make the hole square and cut a square patch.
Circular holes because if you're fishing a wire, you can make it with a holesaw and you get to use the plug to plug the hole afterwards. Also, I could be wrong, but I'd guess you're more likely to get cracks on a square patch than a round one maybe?
I have a circular hole from a heel going into my dry wall🤷🏾♀️🤦🏾♀️🤣 kids
Já používám jen 1 a 4 způsob možná někdy zkusím ten třetí způsob. A na první tmelení používám Uniflott od Knauf s ním se nemusí používat bandáž.
He is a Master of drywall repair 😊
This guy is Good!😮
nice, thank you very much for the tips and tricks 👍😊
Mans is a drywall god.
Great tut thanks
The best way to do this is to make a California patch using a piece of Sheetrock the exact measurements of the hole and making sure to leave the backing 2 inches wider than the hole to make sure the paper has something to stick to! Simple, quick, and the best way to do it!!
Awesome. 👏🏼
You D MadMan indeed!
How does your spackle go on so smooth? Mine does not go on like that, what do you use?
It’s funny that mesh tape has an adhesive on it so you can apply it before you mud it. Also buy a dimpler so you do break the drywall paper when installing your screws.
The pros I've worked with always used paper tape. I think it's faster if you're experienced with it. Objectively, you're right that mesh tape ought to be superior in preventing cracking and saves the step of mudding prior to applying it, but I just don't see it used that often.
They use paper because it's cheaper.
The mesh is ok in my opinion, but the adhesive-backed holy paper is the money maker!! Perfect for seamless finishes, in my opinion.
In the UK they used to use hessian, now they use mesh tape... but we tend to have a skimcoat of plaster on the whole wall, rather than just mudding the tape joins.
@@edwardholmes91 we're doing a lot more of that now. The trend is a smooth finish in the US now instead of texture.
@@jdraven0890
Texture was only used originally to hide the sins. I never cared for it myself
This is like the ASMR of building works - just amazing, and I've learnt so much. I love channels that enhance positivity and education to help the masses. Thank you! Psyche aka Psyche Thompson UK 🌹
Excellent video.
he does lot more work then it need to
Nice 🔥🔥🔥🔥
What is that large skiming board called that’s often used to finish the work.
Your the man😮
M. A. G. I. C. I. A. N. !!!
How many bubbles on the tape have you left behind?
Wow this is cool😮👍👍
What kind of tape are you using, if you don't mind?
A very entertaining and interesting video, the methods are different but the results are the same and this video provides useful knowledge 🎉🎉 👍🏻👍🏻
This guy is like Bob Ross of drywall. He makes it look so... easy.
have u had any issues with soft poop stoppages
To me, this is amazing!
Cool video. I could never work that fast 😢
I just subscribed😊 thanks
Damn! Nice professional work great job! 👍👌
Options 1 and 4 look good.
You are amazing!
A couple of those were destined to crack soon. A few good examples too
Well done
Many ways to do that. I use the hot patch method. It’s quicker. Uses less materials.
This guy is very professional nice work
Anyone else find these videos oddly relaxing? ☺️
Quite the opposite, it's very stressful. As someone who is in construction industry the techniques and execution is very shady. If I did this to any paying customer I would consider myself a scammer or at the very minimum ripping the customer off.
Great work! I have never seen some of those techniques before.
Its bad
Wow, great demonstrations . Will come in handy one day . Thanks
Merci pour ce partage👍❤️.
Great patch work sir 💰
Very nice
I used every one of these methods and they all work well. The hardest thing to learn is when to stop . One more pass is usually one too many
nice tips
You should either cut back to the studs or screw your backer wood to both sides of the sheet rock. Otherwise, there will be nothing preventing movement on the existing wall.
Outstanding
Fein gemacht.
Impressive!
Appears to me the smaller holes are harder to repair. Is it smart to create a larger hole to repair it easier?
Good job brother 👍👍
I'd use stud adhesive behind the plaster insert
Just use the same mud .
I've done some of that😊