30 years in construction. I thought I was the only one who primed bare spots like that. I love walking away from a job knowing I have done the best job that can be done and do the extra steps to insure a great job.
I really like this guys videos, no wanna be comedian, no talking about his dead dog, or his snake vacation, or other useless information.....he just explains everything short and clear, good audio, and camera action. this is how all diy videos should be produced.
yeah he’s pretty awesome. He doesn’t look old enough to have such a wealth of experience and knowledge. He must be a very fast learner, or good genes 😂
Johnny....Are you kidding me?..... "you should wear an organics mask but Im going to run though this quick then hang outside on the porch for twenty minutes"....thats pure Canadian comic gold!
I'm 20 years old. I've been doing this work since I was a little kid, helping my dad with his business. I got out of NG training (18y/o) and decided to start my own Handyman company (small stuff at first to get back I'm the groove). After getting myself more acclimated to the style and work load, I began completing larger jobs- slowly but surely, of course. I was starting to run into scenarios that I had no idea what to do with on my first large drywall job (19 y/o). On my way home, I bought 15 sheets of drywall, 1 bucket/box of every mud in-store, and all the tools needed. I found your channel, watched your videos, and immediately built a stand with spare 2x4's. When I was done practicing for 11 hours straight, I went to the job and knocked out 4.3x the amount from the day before and brought myself current on the job and finished on time. I went from an embarrassing situation realizing I wasnt ready, to- I wont accept defeat, I'll get this, and progressed each hour and made a name for myself. I regularly do the same thing with other trades and am now a general remodeling company and we're doing great! My dad lives your channel too; and at almost 60 years old he enjoys it more with your simple tips and tricks that help his neck, shoulder, and knees (after doing solely tile for 30 years and everything else on the side). Thank you, sir!
It's not often I find exactly what I need when I search for DIY help on TH-cam. What typically happens is I end up watching portions of multiple videos and mix-and-match from what I watch. This video was concise and provided me exactly what I needed. First try. Also, it was such a satisfying experience, I watched four more of your videos which provided me more knowledge for my project. Really fantastic presentation! I appreciate how you talk to your viewers. You're obviously a professional, but realize most of your viewers probably aren't professionals. Thank you!
For those who want a ready reference to key points re the products .. I've summarised below. 3:20 The preference is for an alcohol based primer such as Shellac Primer-Sealer & Stain Killer, White, 1 Quart as it can be coated with mud after just 45min. Whilst the smell is strong at first it does go quickly 3:34 Don't go for water based products as they take a day to dry 3:54 And don't go for oil based products as the smell lingers, and you still have to wait 4-5 hrs to coat with mud 4:16 Whilst you can get spray cans of Shellac primer-sealers, the preference is to roll it on to ensure its is saturated. Sprays seem to just coat the paper and doesn't get under any flaps 4:36 Lastly it's a good idea to wear an organic respirator
Love it man. Real life drywall problems, real life drywall damage, with real life drywall solutions and techniques that a handy homeowner can actually do.
Been doing drywall for 35 years. I have never had to seal drywall paper. Ive always sprayed the paper with water so when the compound dries it doesn't cause bubbles in the paper. Also use Dura bond for repair such as this, when it does dry out it pulls the air bubbles out
Instead of purchasing a primer or sealer to apply before mudding I have made my own by mixing white glue like Elmer's or Titebond with water . Apply it with a brush or roller. Once it dries its good to go. I cannot remember the ratio of glue and water though. I initially found the information on TH-cam. It is way cheaper than purchasing a specialty sealer or primer.
Same problem here. Easily stripped layers of wallpaper and taped and skim coated with varying success (tape bubbling like crazy in places). Out of frustration I was considering hanging expensive 1/4" drywall on the ceiling and doing wainscoting the walls to hide. Simple primer saved the day.
This is a really good idea and this is what I like to do and use, shellac is the absolute best high adhesion primer/ sealer, I use it exclusively and also works well for pen, crayon, waxes, fire and smoke damage, spot priming on exterior and stops tannin bleed on acidic woods, stops pitch and SAP bleeding, shellac is the ultimate. We just recently were at a commercial job and my boss said we didn't need to prime a buncha wallboard paper exposed and I knew we did, yep you guessed it, blisters and paper wrinkled and became a huge issue. Absolutely ridiculous. Thank you Vancouver carpenter you're the best.
@Renzo you mentioned shellac. I've always got a pound or 2 of blonde and super blonde shellac flakes in the van with denatured alcohol. If I mixed up a gallon using the blonde flakes could I use that? I use it for finish work on walnut and maple but if it works on torn paper...
@@ronmiller7248 Yes, I don't know what the cut ratio in Shellac Primer. But, he's just using a shellac primer in video so it has a ton of white pigment in it versus your blonde flakes.I'm also not sure about the economics of your blonde flakes versus just buying some zinger's BIN or Kilz shellac primer. One of the big benefits of shellac is it bonds to all other finishes. You can use it to seal surface that is contaminated or previously finished with oil or wax before applying a lacquer or acrylic("water based"). I have problems in my house, where the person before me painted over the original oil paint with acrylic paint without good service prep, and the acrylic peels off the wall like plastic wrap. Always priming with shellac would be a shotgun solution to prevent issues with unknown old finish and it dry faster than anything else accept catalyzed lacquer.
A guy I worked with said he knows everything there is to know about drywalling. I told him it's time to quit if he won't learn anything anymore. I picked up a new bit of knowledge from this and most all of your posts. Thanks for these, and keep it going!
I never could quite get to the point where there's a clean edge that doesn't need scraping anymore. I start with a spot the size of a quarter and end up with a spot the size of a corn field.
Right on...great tips. I've been painting contractor for a while, not many carpenters/contractors have your knowledge, skill, common sense and ability. Usually, when I see a carpenter with any type of filler or caulking gun, I tell them to "just walk away." "You want to help me? Don't help me." ..."I'll pay you NOT to help me." Lol! Your video on caulking was stellar as well, impressive work!
Your definitely a natural at explaining. Fast and effective if it’s not broken don’t fix. I always like how you put it out there about room for improvement. I’ve been doing drywall 30 years and always willing to use new methods if efficient and better not always quicker is better but efficient and effective. I would recommend using Fiber Fuse tape on everything but angels. Try Fiba Fuse tape with AP mud because there’s never a bubble and it’s way lite. Then you can skim it.
this is awesome. I have wrestled with trying to patch these tearouts without priming first and they just keep blistering and lifting over and over and over. Thanks for the tips, you really know your stuff.
Just what I needed - terrific video! For small jobs the spray is the way to go, though due to - cost. 1 gallon of the Bin you are using is currently (2022-09-05) $74.00 at the Home Despot. That's a bit steep for the few ounces a homeowner will probably need. This stuff works great if you have 'iron' stains on the ceiling where upstairs plumbing or roof may have leaked. That will come right through latex paint, Bin stops it dead.
The quality of instruction is as good as it gets.. in any field. I recommend these videos to people to help them learn how to be better communicators and teachers, including those who will never do construction.
Acrylic fortifier from Home Depot or Lowe's in concrete section..acrylic fortifier water-based works well on this situation and within 15 minutes can be coated with mud not an hour and you don't have to breathe the chemicals from your shellac
So I've been watching a lot of videos on repairing drywall today and this video popped up on my recommendations. Not gonna lie, I clicked on it thinking it was a skate video. Most useful dual-channel dude to me on youtube.
This dude is solid. This is the only video of his that I disagree strongly with. Fuck painting that shit on the wall. It sucks. Oil based Zinser works way better. All the extra steps it takes to do anything like this isn’t worth the loss of time and cleaning up all this new mess. Skim it, sand some blisters and re-skim. You’re already mudding so who cares.
Great camera work on the drywall. Very few DIY videos show the surface detail clearly enough when talking about drywall. Also, amazing how such a young guy knows so much and provides such great how-to videos.
I get SO frustrated with so many you tubers obviously trying to pad their video lengths. Everything has to be 15 minutes. This guy is bang! Right to it. All the facts and nothing but the facts. I learn so much here! Thank you!
In my second-ever apartment and decided to hang up some decorations-finally. Well, I misplaced one and pulled it off to move and pulled a chunk of drywall with it. I was so upset and worried I'd have to pay a huge fee but knowing I can just fix it myself has seriously been a blessing. Thank you.
I have this problem and I thought of you right away because I knew you would have a video on how to fix it. I also knew you unlike the other videos would show us step by step how to do it and what to use. I can't thank you enough.
vancouver painter here, he is doing everything right. if its a small repair in a low profile area u can just put filler over top. if its a big repair in a high vis area best to spot prime with any oil fast dry primer and skim it and possible skim it again flush fill. sand it while holding a trouble light and then you are good to go
First, let me say I found your video very clear and concise with excellent information (much more so than many other videos I've watched). I'm doing a DYI bathroom project and got myself into a major mess having to remove 30 year old wall paper which came down with a lot more sheet rock paper than hoped for. So with that said the one thing I wish you would have spoken to and shown more of are the fundamentals of actually applying mud, i.e., what type (bucket or powder), the specific tools needed (noticed you used a hand held "tray" while applying the mud) and the best technique for repairing fairly large areas (2x3). So that's my 2 cents but like I started with, your video was very helpful. Thanks!
I do this everyday. I do drywall patching 80 % of my work. Soak the brown with water, spray bottle is best. Then mud within half hour. No Blisters. But you must soak. Primers as i have found are just soaking the paper. Water is free! Had to let this secret out.
I have more secrets to come, new channel opening soon under different name. I will reply it on this post. Also yes water doesnt cost anything and its the reason these brown paper solutions exist.
I've been patching drywall for 23 years. Soaking with water leaves me with blisters. I then have to go back and redo. If it works for you then definitely do it. Water is free and quicker.
I watch these types of videos from time to time to see how others do things. Yours is the first time I've seen someone do it exactly like I do. This is the best and quickest method. Great video.
I just bought a house & had to take down a tile mural, this video SAVED me, the estimates i got from handymen to fix the wall was about $200, my husband and I did this in an afternoon ourselves with primer we already had, i only had to buy mud! Thank you SO MUCCH!
You're amazing and have taught me so much, but there is one thing you said in this video that could be confusing to newbies like myself: you first said not to use a water based primer, but you later clarified that you can use zinsser gardz which is water based and specifically formulated for this task. you also mentioned that you need to wait 24 hrs before mudding, but per zinsser directions, you only need to wait 3 hours. not sure if there was a change in their formula that made it set more rapidly, but it's readily available at home depot. I used it and it works well. mudded 3 hours later no problems.
Very good. I wish that I had seen this 4-5 years ago when redoing a bedroom. The drywall paper was a mess. I kept muddying and sanding until it quit blistering and I could finally paint it. I am sure this will be useful in the future. Thanks.
Wish I had seen this before I did a very small repair in the powder room. The repair was about the size of a silver dollar and no matter how many coats of regular water-based primer I applied, I always got a couple of blisters. Fortunately the repair was in a location that didn't show too badly. Out of frustration I just painted over it after skimming it with mud. Now I'm better prepared for the next time. Great videos and love your dry humor Please keep 'em coming!
I think I originally watched this video about a year ago. I'm back to watch it as a refresher. No one else seems to talk about stuff like this, so THANK YOU!!!
Your videos have been immensely helpful for me. I simple flooring project revealed an old lingering leak in a wall that had massive amounts of mold growing in it. We had to remove drywall in 2 rooms to catch it all. Suddenly a 4 hour flooring project became a 2 week drywall pre project as we kept finding more and more mildew and smelly crumbling gypsum board in the walls!! Your videos helped me quickly get a grip on what needed to be done. I could stop thinking I was being punished for some old karmic offense!!
"Shellac is a resin secreted by the female lac bug, on trees in the forests of India and Thailand. It is processed and sold as dry flakes (pictured) and dissolved in alcohol to make liquid shellac, which is used as a brush-on colorant, food glaze and wood finish." Wikipedia
But he was not asking about the word "Shellac". He was wondering if the alcoholic smell of Shellac lead to the use of the term "Shellaced" in reference to getting drunk.
I am doing my bathroom right now and it looks exactly like your video, I removed a glued on mirror and the vanity also tore the paper, I will repairing the walls just like you did. Thanks
I just did a drywall repair after removing tile from the wall. Wish I would have seen this first. I think my repair went decently but on the next bathroom I will use your methods here for sure, thanks
You explain this stuff better than Anyone I’ve seen . Getting ready to repair drywall in my garage,basically redoing it but I fill a little more confident can do a better job now . Fingers crossed 🤞
Me and my work partner have been painting a house for quite a while (if you ever want Chantilly Lace, don't), and even while using Benjamin Moore Aura, I've been using the same roller sleeve for over a month. Same house. This is the longest either of us have been on a job.
I’ve been doing it this way for 20 years but I still use oil based Kilz. Works great for kitchen and bathroom remodels where the wallpaper is still in decent shape also. I haven’t removed wallpaper in years. Just cut back anything that’s loose or peeling, prime all the walls, skim the seems and texture. I’ve never had a call back on paper peeling or blistering.
I had a "peel & stick" towel/coat hanger on my wall & in 5 days my cat had jumped up and grabbed onto my towel, ripping down my peel& stick wall hanger. So I have about a 8x3 section of wall that I need to cover, I'll be using this exact method. Thanks, Vancouver Carpenter!
Excellent tip on using the roller to press the shellac into the paper. Many people use aerosols because they are quick but they really don’t penetrate as well.
Was just going to paint over the torn drywall in my family room but when I saw this video it got me hooked to all your other videos too!! I'm clueless about drywall and preparation but now I know my family room project is going to turn out way better, thanks to these videos!!!!!
I use a water based masonry bonder. It penetrates the paper and will seal the raw edge. It will flatten any blisters and bond them back in place. Since it is water based it is absorbed quickly and dries perfectly flat. It doesn't add an additional layer of material. You can mud over it as soon as it is applied or let it dry completely. I've successfully used it to cover as much as 30 sqft of missing drywall face. I did a small ceiling that would have otherwise had to have been torn out and rerocked. Edit: Soap and water clean up, brush or roller.
@@cpanic9 Quickrete masonry bonder and fortifier. Home Depot, but I'm sure any home center will have it. Looks like Elmer's glue. 1 quart plastic bottle is the smallest amout available. It keeps indefinitely.
@@nc3826 Quickrete is specifically designed for masonry products. I wouldn't risk using white glue. I have no reason to doubt you but I'll stick with what I know works. TY
DIYers: If you have the luxury of time, like I do on my projects.. I'd sand after the primer cures, to knock down the now stiffened loose paper edges. I'd use 3 coats of primer for spot treatments like in the video, sanding after each coat. This will mask the contrast between the grey of the drywall paper and the brown of the drywall paper where it's torn. Then it's your judgement call when you stand back and look at the wall as to whether you need to skim coat it.
@@urbangangsta Waste. I'll do 2 more coats of primer where VC did only 1 primer + skim coat. If I can't detect a difference between the primed repair and primed undamaged wall, I'm moving on to priming the whole wall and skipping spending $10 on a bag of dry joint compound or small container of premix and tossing the remaining 95% of the bag/container in the landfill as I'll never use the rest before it expires in a year. VC won't waste it as he's continuously working.
Another good option is pro 999 rx 35. Brand is Romen. It's milky white, doesn't smell bad, and dries clear. I've used it multiple times, over paper, with excellent results.
I've been watching your videos for years, and this one is my all-time favorite. I come back to it every now and then because I feel like I learn something new each time. Plus it's just so well done and kind of relaxing to watch 😁
I've been using Gardz on torn paper for a few yrs now, with a 50% relative humidity a 4-5 hr dry time usually allows a good cure, no need to wait 24 hrs for a top coat of mud. The beauty of Gardz is it is latex based, so easy clean up, and low odor. In the buildings where I work low odor products are a must.
Excellent tutorial. I’ve been using bins for a long time to remedy this problem with torn drywall paper. It leaves a hard finish which can be lightly sanded with out raising the paper like water based primers do. I also use bins to seal out bleeding knots in wood before painting and other stains which might bleed through my finish paint. It dries so fast that I can paint over it immediately. Shellac also works as well.
I know this has been posted for a long time, but I wanted to thank you! Great video, wonderful instructions, and I was able to fix some peeling in my house without having to hire a contractor. Appreciate you!
Haha I wish I saw this earlier when I had to repair this exact issue. Should have done it like you described here! Ah well, my repair will likely need repairing down the road anyway.
Thank you for keeping it so simple! Best video out there to repair drywall rips. Just removed by big vanity mirror and what a mess. I was stressed on how to fix it but not anymore.
My drywall skills have developed leaps and bounds after watching your videos, and I look forward to new content from you. Thanks for sharing your skills with us!
I actually bought an organic mask to give my painter as I was using one and told him to wear it. We were sealing smoking stained walls. I left for a couple hours, came back, painter not wearing mask. His eyes looked like he was a disciple of Timothy Leery. Had to lead him by hand outside into yard to ventilate. He told me after a while the fumes didn't bother him anymore. Yeah right. He was higher than the Space Shuttle. Had he lit a smoke while painting in that poorly vented room I'm thinking I could have swept the leftovers up with a broom and dust pan. Great stuff for intended purposes but follow the label. Great repair video, love the channel. Thank you oh northern neighbor!
Thank you I've been trying to figure out how to repair same drywall tears. Your informative vid opened my eyes and I'm grateful sir thank you great vid...
This is a really good presentation. Zinser shellac based primer has been my go-to for years and has never failed me. This application is still a first for me but rest assured I will be using it.
If you don't like the alcohol smell of B-I-N ... another GREAT product that I've used for years is Rx-35 from the same great company! Rx-35 is water-based and it sinks into the abused and torn drywall paper and seals it so the moisture from your mud won't bubble the paper! It's also an Amazing prep for wallpaper! It seals the drywall paper or contractors paint and allows the adhesive from the papering process to cure and stick very well! Oh ... and it's a clear product! No worries about splashing anything as you prep! (I hate painting! Lol) Sherwin Williams sells it too ... I think it's sold as Pro-999 (or something like that) Best product for damaged drywall!
That thumbnail really caught my attention! Now I know I’ve done the first half of my house wrong, but will do it right for the second half. Thanks for the great informative video.
Just wanted to say thanks... my kitchen remodel began before the quarantine. I ended up having to fire my contractor because he was doing some shady stuff with the electric. I couldn't get anyone else to come in so I've been doing it myself. I'm pretty handy but always struggled with drywall. Your videos have really helped. Thank you.
His instruction is excellent, very informative and he explains things in a way that is easy to understand then shows you how to do it. Good Job and thanks.
If you seal it first you still need to have that product on hand, and then you still have to wait for it to dry. If you use mud like me you just skim coat it and then sand it, it might need another skim coat but it comes out perfect every time without any extra products or steps.
Our home reno includes pulling down paneling that was glued to level 0 drywall, and now has a lot of torn paper. You recommend to use shellac or Gardz, but would a [Kilz] water-based PVA drywall primer work? After we skim coat we then use the drywall PVA primer/sealer? I'm getting a lot of different suggestions from Google searches.
Took your advice on this. Works well. Only thing I would add is that once you roll white over the repair it's far more difficult to see the repair. Have the sealer lightly tinted at the store so it's easier to see what to mud. I was working on an entire room where there were hundreds of spots to fix. Wish you could have skimmed it for me!!
I would have never thought to prime the exposed paper... Thanks for the helpful information! I am gonna start to use primer on my drywall repairs from now on! Great Video!
30 years in construction. I thought I was the only one who primed bare spots like that.
I love walking away from a job knowing I have done the best job that can be done and do the extra steps to insure a great job.
Could you please share a bit more about why you prime before the mud? To block the stain?
I’ve always skimmed spots like that before prime, would like your input on why you don’t cuz I always thought you should?
Yes please. I would also like to know why we should prime before mudding. Thanks so much!
I really like this guys videos, no wanna be comedian, no talking about his dead dog, or his snake vacation, or other useless information.....he just explains everything short and clear, good audio, and camera action. this is how all diy videos should be produced.
Completely agree! His humor is funny and doesn't slow things down.
Oh shit, I didn’t know he lost his frog. I hope his snake vacation cheered him up.
johnny -- but with loud distorted guitar music that no one knows.
yeah he’s pretty awesome. He doesn’t look old enough to have such a wealth of experience and knowledge. He must be a very fast learner, or good genes 😂
Johnny....Are you kidding me?..... "you should wear an organics mask but Im going to run though this quick then hang outside on the porch for twenty minutes"....thats pure Canadian comic gold!
I'm 20 years old. I've been doing this work since I was a little kid, helping my dad with his business. I got out of NG training (18y/o) and decided to start my own Handyman company (small stuff at first to get back I'm the groove). After getting myself more acclimated to the style and work load, I began completing larger jobs- slowly but surely, of course. I was starting to run into scenarios that I had no idea what to do with on my first large drywall job (19 y/o). On my way home, I bought 15 sheets of drywall, 1 bucket/box of every mud in-store, and all the tools needed. I found your channel, watched your videos, and immediately built a stand with spare 2x4's. When I was done practicing for 11 hours straight, I went to the job and knocked out 4.3x the amount from the day before and brought myself current on the job and finished on time. I went from an embarrassing situation realizing I wasnt ready, to- I wont accept defeat, I'll get this, and progressed each hour and made a name for myself. I regularly do the same thing with other trades and am now a general remodeling company and we're doing great! My dad lives your channel too; and at almost 60 years old he enjoys it more with your simple tips and tricks that help his neck, shoulder, and knees (after doing solely tile for 30 years and everything else on the side). Thank you, sir!
I love your story. Thanks for sharing! Best wishes for a successful future and generational wealth.
It's not often I find exactly what I need when I search for DIY help on TH-cam. What typically happens is I end up watching portions of multiple videos and mix-and-match from what I watch. This video was concise and provided me exactly what I needed. First try. Also, it was such a satisfying experience, I watched four more of your videos which provided me more knowledge for my project. Really fantastic presentation! I appreciate how you talk to your viewers. You're obviously a professional, but realize most of your viewers probably aren't professionals. Thank you!
I'm a carpenter. You taught me more about drywall then anybody. My first job turned out amazing.thanks to you man thanks for all your videos
Thank you 🙏 You are empowering people to repair their homes and teach their children how to repair theirs. You change lives.
For those who want a ready reference to key points re the products .. I've summarised below.
3:20 The preference is for an alcohol based primer such as Shellac Primer-Sealer & Stain Killer, White, 1 Quart as it can be coated with mud after just 45min. Whilst the smell is strong at first it does go quickly
3:34 Don't go for water based products as they take a day to dry
3:54 And don't go for oil based products as the smell lingers, and you still have to wait 4-5 hrs to coat with mud
4:16 Whilst you can get spray cans of Shellac primer-sealers, the preference is to roll it on to ensure its is saturated. Sprays seem to just coat the paper and doesn't get under any flaps
4:36 Lastly it's a good idea to wear an organic respirator
THANK YOUUU
Cliff Lives!
Thanks so much Sir😊. Super helpful 👌.
Nice summary. I wish I saw this before I watched it but the video was good as well. This guy seems like a great teacher.
@@tommy-cg8ny thanks from Melbourne Australia
I hope the summary helped.. and yes he's a great teacher
Love it man. Real life drywall problems, real life drywall damage, with real life drywall solutions and techniques that a handy homeowner can actually do.
Been doing drywall for 35 years. I have never had to seal drywall paper. Ive always sprayed the paper with water so when the compound dries it doesn't cause bubbles in the paper. Also use Dura bond for repair such as this, when it does dry out it pulls the air bubbles out
Mike Luther thank you
The video didn't work for me but this did. Thanks
Instead of purchasing a primer or sealer to apply before mudding I have made my own by mixing white glue like Elmer's or Titebond with water . Apply it with a brush or roller. Once it dries its good to go. I cannot remember the ratio of glue and water though. I initially found the information on TH-cam. It is way cheaper than purchasing a specialty sealer or primer.
Just tore off some 40 year old wallpaper and was about to just skim coat over it. So lucky I found this video while watching your others!
Same problem here. Easily stripped layers of wallpaper and taped and skim coated with varying success (tape bubbling like crazy in places). Out of frustration I was considering hanging expensive 1/4" drywall on the ceiling and doing wainscoting the walls to hide. Simple primer saved the day.
This guy just gets right to it. He tells you the good stuff you need to know and doesn't waste your time with BS and annoying music. BRAVO
This is a really good idea and this is what I like to do and use, shellac is the absolute best high adhesion primer/ sealer, I use it exclusively and also works well for pen, crayon, waxes, fire and smoke damage, spot priming on exterior and stops tannin bleed on acidic woods, stops pitch and SAP bleeding, shellac is the ultimate. We just recently were at a commercial job and my boss said we didn't need to prime a buncha wallboard paper exposed and I knew we did, yep you guessed it, blisters and paper wrinkled and became a huge issue. Absolutely ridiculous. Thank you Vancouver carpenter you're the best.
@Renzo you mentioned shellac. I've always got a pound or 2 of blonde and super blonde shellac flakes in the van with denatured alcohol. If I mixed up a gallon using the blonde flakes could I use that? I use it for finish work on walnut and maple but if it works on torn paper...
@@ronmiller7248 Yes, I don't know what the cut ratio in Shellac Primer. But, he's just using a shellac primer in video so it has a ton of white pigment in it versus your blonde flakes.I'm also not sure about the economics of your blonde flakes versus just buying some zinger's BIN or Kilz shellac primer. One of the big benefits of shellac is it bonds to all other finishes. You can use it to seal surface that is contaminated or previously finished with oil or wax before applying a lacquer or acrylic("water based"). I have problems in my house, where the person before me painted over the original oil paint with acrylic paint without good service prep, and the acrylic peels off the wall like plastic wrap. Always priming with shellac would be a shotgun solution to prevent issues with unknown old finish and it dry faster than anything else accept catalyzed lacquer.
A guy I worked with said he knows everything there is to know about drywalling. I told him it's time to quit if he won't learn anything anymore. I picked up a new bit of knowledge from this and most all of your posts. Thanks for these, and keep it going!
Nice to watch a tutorial that does not have music and video effects.
I never could quite get to the point where there's a clean edge that doesn't need scraping anymore. I start with a spot the size of a quarter and end up with a spot the size of a corn field.
I often use a knife at these points, don't underestimate a clean cut
Too funny!
Scott Farkus Lol!
@@bobseaver7807 Go chase the Bumpus dogs!!
Just keep going it will happen.
Right on...great tips. I've been painting contractor for a while, not many carpenters/contractors have your knowledge, skill, common sense and ability. Usually, when I see a carpenter with any type of filler or caulking gun, I tell them to "just walk away." "You want to help me? Don't help me." ..."I'll pay you NOT to help me." Lol! Your video on caulking was stellar as well, impressive work!
Your definitely a natural at explaining. Fast and effective if it’s not broken don’t fix. I always like how you put it out there about room for improvement. I’ve been doing drywall 30 years and always willing to use new methods if efficient and better not always quicker is better but efficient and effective. I would recommend using Fiber Fuse tape on everything but angels. Try Fiba Fuse tape with AP mud because there’s never a bubble and it’s way lite. Then you can skim it.
this is awesome. I have wrestled with trying to patch these tearouts without priming first and they just keep blistering and lifting over and over and over. Thanks for the tips, you really know your stuff.
Just what I needed - terrific video! For small jobs the spray is the way to go, though due to - cost. 1 gallon of the Bin you are using is currently (2022-09-05) $74.00 at the Home Despot. That's a bit steep for the few ounces a homeowner will probably need. This stuff works great if you have 'iron' stains on the ceiling where upstairs plumbing or roof may have leaked. That will come right through latex paint, Bin stops it dead.
As a beginner carpenter/remodeler who's been doing this for 4 years, I can say I'm learning so much from this guy.
The quality of instruction is as good as it gets.. in any field. I recommend these videos to people to help them learn how to be better communicators and teachers, including those who will never do construction.
BIN is alcohol based, which means fast drying and no persistent fumes. Love it.
Time to go back to the wall I just tried to repair, that now had a huge blister on it and seal it first. Trial and error....life’s best teacher.
Acrylic fortifier from Home Depot or Lowe's in concrete section..acrylic fortifier water-based works well on this situation and within 15 minutes can be coated with mud not an hour and you don't have to breathe the chemicals from your shellac
do you just paint it on the bad paper spot?
I love your "library" of videos. I wanted to double check what to do on the torn paper first and here I am.
So I've been watching a lot of videos on repairing drywall today and this video popped up on my recommendations. Not gonna lie, I clicked on it thinking it was a skate video. Most useful dual-channel dude to me on youtube.
This dude is solid. This is the only video of his that I disagree strongly with. Fuck painting that shit on the wall. It sucks. Oil based Zinser works way better. All the extra steps it takes to do anything like this isn’t worth the loss of time and cleaning up all this new mess. Skim it, sand some blisters and re-skim. You’re already mudding so who cares.
Newly single after 20 years and doing some bathroom remodel. You really helped me and made me feel like I can do this! Thank you!!!!
Great camera work on the drywall. Very few DIY videos show the surface detail clearly enough when talking about drywall.
Also, amazing how such a young guy knows so much and provides such great how-to videos.
I get SO frustrated with so many you tubers obviously trying to pad their video lengths. Everything has to be 15 minutes. This guy is bang! Right to it. All the facts and nothing but the facts. I learn so much here! Thank you!
I needed this! I was almost in tears thinking I’ve ruined my walls by scraping off wallpaper that was covered with paint!! Thank you so much!
Seriously, this guy is the best. Best drywall videos, period!
In my second-ever apartment and decided to hang up some decorations-finally. Well, I misplaced one and pulled it off to move and pulled a chunk of drywall with it. I was so upset and worried I'd have to pay a huge fee but knowing I can just fix it myself has seriously been a blessing. Thank you.
I know it been a long time but did you manage to fix it without the landlord noticing it ?
I have this problem and I thought of you right away because I knew you would have a video on how to fix it. I also knew you unlike the other videos would show us step by step how to do it and what to use. I can't thank you enough.
A thorough explanation of a fix for this type of issue. Well done, sir.
vancouver painter here, he is doing everything right. if its a small repair in a low profile area u can just put filler over top. if its a big repair in a high vis area best to spot prime with any oil fast dry primer and skim it and possible skim it again flush fill. sand it while holding a trouble light and then you are good to go
When I hear "Welcome to Vancouver Carpenter..." I know it's all going to be alright.
Love your channel sir. Congratulations on your success.
First, let me say I found your video very clear and concise with excellent information (much more so than many other videos I've watched). I'm doing a DYI bathroom project and got myself into a major mess having to remove 30 year old wall paper which came down with a lot more sheet rock paper than hoped for. So with that said the one thing I wish you would have spoken to and shown more of are the fundamentals of actually applying mud, i.e., what type (bucket or powder), the specific tools needed (noticed you used a hand held "tray" while applying the mud) and the best technique for repairing fairly large areas (2x3). So that's my 2 cents but like I started with, your video was very helpful. Thanks!
I do this everyday. I do drywall patching 80 % of my work. Soak the brown with water, spray bottle is best. Then mud within half hour. No Blisters. But you must soak. Primers as i have found are just soaking the paper. Water is free! Had to let this secret out.
I think I prefer your method.
I have more secrets to come, new channel opening soon under different name. I will reply it on this post. Also yes water doesnt cost anything and its the reason these brown paper solutions exist.
I've been patching drywall for 23 years. Soaking with water leaves me with blisters. I then have to go back and redo. If it works for you then definitely do it. Water is free and quicker.
@Todd Henin I use 20 minute mud.
Fixing Things and Fishing
I’ll check it out.
I watch these types of videos from time to time to see how others do things. Yours is the first time I've seen someone do it exactly like I do. This is the best and quickest method. Great video.
GARDZ DOES THE JOB. A must for use on new drywall before applying wallpaper.
I just bought a house & had to take down a tile mural, this video SAVED me, the estimates i got from handymen to fix the wall was about $200, my husband and I did this in an afternoon ourselves with primer we already had, i only had to buy mud! Thank you SO MUCCH!
Great informative video. Glad to see you have found your true calling, once Lazytown had been cancelled.
You're amazing and have taught me so much, but there is one thing you said in this video that could be confusing to newbies like myself:
you first said not to use a water based primer, but you later clarified that you can use zinsser gardz which is water based and specifically formulated for this task. you also mentioned that you need to wait 24 hrs before mudding, but per zinsser directions, you only need to wait 3 hours. not sure if there was a change in their formula that made it set more rapidly, but it's readily available at home depot. I used it and it works well. mudded 3 hours later no problems.
Very good. I wish that I had seen this 4-5 years ago when redoing a bedroom. The drywall paper was a mess. I kept muddying and sanding until it quit blistering and I could finally paint it. I am sure this will be useful in the future. Thanks.
Wish I had seen this before I did a very small repair in the powder room. The repair was about the size of a silver dollar and no matter how many coats of regular water-based primer I applied, I always got a couple of blisters. Fortunately the repair was in a location that didn't show too badly. Out of frustration I just painted over it after skimming it with mud. Now I'm better prepared for the next time.
Great videos and love your dry humor Please keep 'em coming!
This was sooooo helpful. We took down a giant bathroom mirror and had about 6 large rips from it. First time doing this and it came out perfect.
I think I originally watched this video about a year ago. I'm back to watch it as a refresher. No one else seems to talk about stuff like this, so THANK YOU!!!
I personally use a spray can of kills it soaks in and works awesome drytime 15 mins
Killz Primer. Yes.
Your videos have been immensely helpful for me. I simple flooring project revealed an old lingering leak in a wall that had massive amounts of mold growing in it. We had to remove drywall in 2 rooms to catch it all. Suddenly a 4 hour flooring project became a 2 week drywall pre project as we kept finding more and more mildew and smelly crumbling gypsum board in the walls!! Your videos helped me quickly get a grip on what needed to be done. I could stop thinking I was being punished for some old karmic offense!!
"Shellac is a resin secreted by the female lac bug, on trees in the forests of India and Thailand. It is processed and sold as dry flakes (pictured) and dissolved in alcohol to make liquid shellac, which is used as a brush-on colorant, food glaze and wood finish." Wikipedia
I was thinking this as soon as he compared it to rum.
LOL! I thought the same thing when talked about rum!😁
That's funny, I thought you were trolling me and I was going to be like: Okay, you made me look, good job.
A painter, coatings specialist or finisher has to know this. Shellac
But he was not asking about the word "Shellac". He was wondering if the alcoholic smell of Shellac lead to the use of the term "Shellaced" in reference to getting drunk.
I am doing my bathroom right now and it looks exactly like your video, I removed a glued on mirror and the vanity also tore the paper, I will repairing the walls just like you did. Thanks
A young David Bowie showing us how to do repairs! Awesome!
Dont you dare insult David Bowie!!!!
I just did a drywall repair after removing tile from the wall. Wish I would have seen this first. I think my repair went decently but on the next bathroom I will use your methods here for sure, thanks
You explain this stuff better than Anyone I’ve seen . Getting ready to repair drywall in my garage,basically redoing it but I fill a little more confident can do a better job now . Fingers crossed 🤞
Me and my work partner have been painting a house for quite a while (if you ever want Chantilly Lace, don't), and even while using Benjamin Moore Aura, I've been using the same roller sleeve for over a month. Same house. This is the longest either of us have been on a job.
I’ve been doing it this way for 20 years but I still use oil based Kilz. Works great for kitchen and bathroom remodels where the wallpaper is still in decent shape also. I haven’t removed wallpaper in years. Just cut back anything that’s loose or peeling, prime all the walls, skim the seems and texture. I’ve never had a call back on paper peeling or blistering.
I do the same
I had a "peel & stick" towel/coat hanger on my wall & in 5 days my cat had jumped up and grabbed onto my towel, ripping down my peel& stick wall hanger. So I have about a 8x3 section of wall that I need to cover, I'll be using this exact method. Thanks, Vancouver Carpenter!
Excellent tip on using the roller to press the shellac into the paper. Many people use aerosols because they are quick but they really don’t penetrate as well.
You're a very good teacher. Very nice to listen to. And no stupid music in the back round.
Was just going to paint over the torn drywall in my family room but when I saw this video it got me hooked to all your other videos too!! I'm clueless about drywall and preparation but now I know my family room project is going to turn out way better, thanks to these videos!!!!!
Spray glue also works as well and it dries quicker
I use a water based masonry bonder. It penetrates the paper and will seal the raw edge. It will flatten any blisters and bond them back in place. Since it is water based it is absorbed quickly and dries perfectly flat. It doesn't add an additional layer of material. You can mud over it as soon as it is applied or let it dry completely. I've successfully used it to cover as much as 30 sqft of missing drywall face. I did a small ceiling that would have otherwise had to have been torn out and rerocked.
Edit: Soap and water clean up, brush or roller.
Which brand? Where do you get it?
@@cpanic9 Quickrete masonry bonder and fortifier. Home Depot, but I'm sure any home center will have it. Looks like Elmer's glue. 1 quart plastic bottle is the smallest amout available. It keeps indefinitely.
@@oltedders Elmer's and other glues works too....
@@nc3826
Quickrete is specifically designed for masonry products. I wouldn't risk using white glue. I have no reason to doubt you but I'll stick with what I know works. TY
@@nc3826
Have you used Elmer's before for this application?
I don't know if you're better at Carpentry or skating, but I am glad you do both.
DIYers: If you have the luxury of time, like I do on my projects.. I'd sand after the primer cures, to knock down the now stiffened loose paper edges. I'd use 3 coats of primer for spot treatments like in the video, sanding after each coat. This will mask the contrast between the grey of the drywall paper and the brown of the drywall paper where it's torn. Then it's your judgement call when you stand back and look at the wall as to whether you need to skim coat it.
Why would you need to mask the contrast of the drywall paper with primer when you’re going to mud over it? Makes no sense
@@urbangangsta Waste. I'll do 2 more coats of primer where VC did only 1 primer + skim coat. If I can't detect a difference between the primed repair and primed undamaged wall, I'm moving on to priming the whole wall and skipping spending $10 on a bag of dry joint compound or small container of premix and tossing the remaining 95% of the bag/container in the landfill as I'll never use the rest before it expires in a year. VC won't waste it as he's continuously working.
Another good option is pro 999 rx 35. Brand is Romen. It's milky white, doesn't smell bad, and dries clear. I've used it multiple times, over paper, with excellent results.
I've been watching your videos for years, and this one is my all-time favorite. I come back to it every now and then because I feel like I learn something new each time. Plus it's just so well done and kind of relaxing to watch 😁
I've been using Gardz on torn paper for a few yrs now, with a 50% relative humidity a 4-5 hr dry time usually allows a good cure, no need to wait 24 hrs for a top coat of mud. The beauty of Gardz is it is latex based, so easy clean up, and low odor. In the buildings where I work low odor products are a must.
As a final prep step before priming, I rub the drywall patch with a sanding sponge. This removes most of the loose fine paper.
Excellent tutorial. I’ve been using bins for a long time to remedy this problem with torn drywall paper. It leaves a hard finish which can be lightly sanded with out raising the paper like water based primers do. I also use bins to seal out bleeding knots in wood before painting and other stains which might bleed through my finish paint. It dries so fast that I can paint over it immediately. Shellac also works as well.
I know this has been posted for a long time, but I wanted to thank you! Great video, wonderful instructions, and I was able to fix some peeling in my house without having to hire a contractor. Appreciate you!
Painter for 30 years we do it the same only we hit it with a sanding sponge before priming to knock down some of the fur very lightly. Nice work
Wish I knew this a couple weeks ago, although the blisters in the tape cover up the other blisters pretty well.
You and the Kilted Guy have help me DIY dry wall repairs around my home. My wife says the repairs look great. Thanks!
Haha I wish I saw this earlier when I had to repair this exact issue. Should have done it like you described here! Ah well, my repair will likely need repairing down the road anyway.
Thank you for keeping it so simple! Best video out there to repair drywall rips. Just removed by big vanity mirror and what a mess. I was stressed on how to fix it but not anymore.
My drywall skills have developed leaps and bounds after watching your videos, and I look forward to new content from you. Thanks for sharing your skills with us!
I actually bought an organic mask to give my painter as I was using one and told him to wear it. We were sealing smoking stained walls. I left for a couple hours, came back, painter not wearing mask. His eyes looked like he was a disciple of Timothy Leery. Had to lead him by hand outside into yard to ventilate. He told me after a while the fumes didn't bother him anymore. Yeah right. He was higher than the Space Shuttle. Had he lit a smoke while painting in that poorly vented room I'm thinking I could have swept the leftovers up with a broom and dust pan. Great stuff for intended purposes but follow the label. Great repair video, love the channel. Thank you oh northern neighbor!
Thank you I've been trying to figure out how to repair same drywall tears. Your informative vid opened my eyes and I'm grateful sir thank you great vid...
Spot on! If I made a video for this repair, it would be the same video. Exactly how I was taught 20 years ago!
That's the guy you hope would show up for your drywall project
and in reality, you get Tim, the Alcoholic, with failing vision.
Oh snap, not Tim!!!
Well, I mean he does sometimes, but that's just too drop off who's really doing it and collect the check. 🙂
Hiring a pro is like playing lotto
I am the guy that shows up for my drywall project.
Forget about watching cooking shows for relaxation -- Vancouver Carpenter is Zen Master!
Just wanted to say "Thanks" your videos have been a tremendous and timely help for me during my laundry room renovation.
Thanks for bringing us along. I've had to do this once. I used something called Rx-35 and it did the job. DIYer here.
Would love to see a video that discusses your advice/approach when a paper has been totally removed, leaving bare gypsum
Same deal. Scrape, sand, and primer. Then float the entire wall.
This is a really good presentation. Zinser shellac based primer has been my go-to for years and has never failed me. This application is still a first for me but rest assured I will be using it.
I learned about blistering the hard way. I kept a painting and seeing bubbles. Was s waste of paint and I wont do it again
If you don't like the alcohol smell of B-I-N ... another GREAT product that I've used for years is Rx-35 from the same great company!
Rx-35 is water-based and it sinks into the abused and torn drywall paper and seals it so the moisture from your mud won't bubble the paper! It's also an Amazing prep for wallpaper! It seals the drywall paper or contractors paint and allows the adhesive from the papering process to cure and stick very well! Oh ... and it's a clear product! No worries about splashing anything as you prep! (I hate painting! Lol)
Sherwin Williams sells it too ... I think it's sold as Pro-999 (or something like that)
Best product for damaged drywall!
That thumbnail really caught my attention! Now I know I’ve done the first half of my house wrong, but will do it right for the second half. Thanks for the great informative video.
This saved me from ripping down unnecessary drywall and will save me money and time in my own remodel so thanks for the video!
You're a good teacher?straight to point!
Thank you!
Yes sir I found this video very useful! I am going to Home Depot to get me some Shellac! You literally just saved me weeks of redoing work!
Clear, direct, well-illustrated. Thank you.
Just wanted to say thanks... my kitchen remodel began before the quarantine. I ended up having to fire my contractor because he was doing some shady stuff with the electric. I couldn't get anyone else to come in so I've been doing it myself. I'm pretty handy but always struggled with drywall. Your videos have really helped. Thank you.
His instruction is excellent, very informative and he explains things in a way that is easy to understand then shows you how to do it. Good Job and thanks.
If you seal it first you still need to have that product on hand, and then you still have to wait for it to dry.
If you use mud like me you just skim coat it and then sand it, it might need another skim coat but it comes out perfect every time without any extra products or steps.
Our home reno includes pulling down paneling that was glued to level 0 drywall, and now has a lot of torn paper. You recommend to use shellac or Gardz, but would a [Kilz] water-based PVA drywall primer work? After we skim coat we then use the drywall PVA primer/sealer? I'm getting a lot of different suggestions from Google searches.
Took your advice on this. Works well. Only thing I would add is that once you roll white over the repair it's far more difficult to see the repair. Have the sealer lightly tinted at the store so it's easier to see what to mud. I was working on an entire room where there were hundreds of spots to fix.
Wish you could have skimmed it for me!!
I would have never thought to prime the exposed paper... Thanks for the helpful information! I am gonna start to use primer on my drywall repairs from now on! Great Video!
I have used the BIN sealer for applications like what Ben showed in this video for my business and it really does seal the surface.