I'm no engine guru but I did spend 8 yrs in the US Navy operating Nuclear Reactors onboard Fast Attack Submarines, maintained, repaired and overhauled the engine room and have 10 US Patents in design of Fault Tolerant Servers. So rather than using those crappy thin rods many say bend, why not just buy a 5$ steel bolt whose diameter is a bit less than the crank bolt, cut of the head so it slides in and takes the place of said crappy thin a** rod or buy a stock piece of steel rod from the Big Box HW store, cut it to lengths with your grinder and then either way you have something thick and hard to press against the crank which should make this even easier than your experience................Just sayin'.................Nice demo thought..thank you Brother.
I already bought the tool with the rods so didn’t see the need to buy more rods, some say they bend. I’ve never had the issue but I also don’t put a impact on mine.
Thanks for the vid. I rented the tool and it didn't have any instructions. It went exactly how I thought it would, but it's very nice to have the visual reassurance that it is correct.
OEM puller is great. I bought one a few years back. Mine didn't come with the longest rod strangelu but I was still able to use it to pull the balancer off of my 05 silverado 1500 5.3. I'm about to do it again .I wonder if they sell replacement rods for this puller? Great video.
@@3rdGenC10s Yes it is. I probably won't be able to either sadly. I did email OEM customer service today buy I am not holding my breath for a positive answer from them.
@@3rdGenC10s I don't know, maybe. If I don't hear back from OEM customer service I might just order another OEM duplicate kit. I can't stand having something that's incomplete. There was some kind of washer in the kit as well that didn't make it to me. Me thinks they might have sent me someone else's return lol. Oh well, live and learn and don't just blindly trust right?
I just used a impact to remove it, but you can also purchase a flexplate stop tool, which you will need when reinstalling anyways. Chelhead Engine Flywheel Locking Tool Steel Black Oxide Flexplate Holding Tool Compatible with Chevy LS 1 2 3 LSX www.amazon.com/dp/B087JB34VK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_XW2M5C85M1KNDX4DFBQB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
New sub here, I’m looking to buy that puller and try to get going on a cam swap and valve springs. Do you have an affordable valve spring tool off amazon you recommend? It’s hard to tell the quality difference just off pics. Some $18 tools look the same as $40 ones. How has that flexhead ratchet held up? Couldn’t see the brand but it looked like icon. Thanks
If you aren’t in a hurry lisle make a good one. Lisle 16560 Valve Spring Compressor for GM LS www.amazon.com/dp/B07QN8H7T4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_33FH526CY7G4DQ1VYTAV you can only do one at a time but seems to be a quality tool by a trusted brand. It is icon brand. It’s my go to ratchet it gets used almost daily and I haven’t had any issues out of it other then have to retighten the screw to the flex head every month or so.
I would look into getting a car water pump and accessories, or look at aftermarket brackets to move the accessories where you need them. ICT Billet makes good affordable products.
@@3rdGenC10s - Thanks. That’s where I’m headed. I think I’m going with an LSA pump and LS3 balancer, at least to begin with. Once that gets sorted, I’ll get with ICT Billet or similar shop for accessory drives and components. I appreciate the quick reply. By the way, great video!
th-cam.com/video/JCU4FwXJ0C0/w-d-xo.html You’ll need to purchase a factory replacement crank bolt as they are torque to yield and should only be used once. I used a ARP fastener that is reusable.
I'm no engine guru but I did spend 8 yrs in the US Navy operating Nuclear Reactors onboard Fast Attack Submarines, maintained, repaired and overhauled the engine room and have 10 US Patents in design of Fault Tolerant Servers. So rather than using those crappy thin rods many say bend, why not just buy a 5$ steel bolt whose diameter is a bit less than the crank bolt, cut of the head so it slides in and takes the place of said crappy thin a** rod or buy a stock piece of steel rod from the Big Box HW store, cut it to lengths with your grinder and then either way you have something thick and hard to press against the crank which should make this even easier than your experience................Just sayin'.................Nice demo thought..thank you Brother.
I already bought the tool with the rods so didn’t see the need to buy more rods, some say they bend. I’ve never had the issue but I also don’t put a impact on mine.
Thanks for the vid. I rented the tool and it didn't have any instructions. It went exactly how I thought it would, but it's very nice to have the visual reassurance that it is correct.
Glad the video was able to help you out! I appreciate the support!
Or you can use 24mm for the bolt
👍🏼
The bolt is regular thread or is opposite
@@dj4ever27 regular
Great how to video!!
Thanks man I appreciate the support
OEM puller is great. I bought one a few years back. Mine didn't come with the longest rod strangelu but I was still able to use it to pull the balancer off of my 05 silverado 1500 5.3. I'm about to do it again .I wonder if they sell replacement rods for this puller? Great video.
It’s a great puller, I’ve never found any replacement rods for them.
@@3rdGenC10s Yes it is. I probably won't be able to either sadly. I did email OEM customer service today buy I am not holding my breath for a positive answer from them.
@@kaylamarie8309 I wonder if you had a extra push rod laying around if it would work.
@@3rdGenC10s I don't know, maybe. If I don't hear back from OEM customer service I might just order another OEM duplicate kit. I can't stand having something that's incomplete. There was some kind of washer in the kit as well that didn't make it to me. Me thinks they might have sent me someone else's return lol. Oh well, live and learn and don't just blindly trust right?
Isn't this the same puller they recommend for Chryslers??
I couldn’t tell you that. I just know it works for the 5.3
How is you prevent the engine rom turning over while loosening and removing that bolt
I just used a impact to remove it, but you can also purchase a flexplate stop tool, which you will need when reinstalling anyways.
Chelhead Engine Flywheel Locking Tool Steel Black Oxide Flexplate Holding Tool Compatible with Chevy LS 1 2 3 LSX www.amazon.com/dp/B087JB34VK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_XW2M5C85M1KNDX4DFBQB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Where did you get the coolant crossover for the heads? Looks like it fit under a ls6 intake
ICT Billet LS Stacked Coolant... www.amazon.com/dp/B07BQXVZHL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Awesome
Thanks for the support!
New sub here, I’m looking to buy that puller and try to get going on a cam swap and valve springs. Do you have an affordable valve spring tool off amazon you recommend? It’s hard to tell the quality difference just off pics. Some $18 tools look the same as $40 ones. How has that flexhead ratchet held up? Couldn’t see the brand but it looked like icon. Thanks
If you aren’t in a hurry lisle make a good one. Lisle 16560 Valve Spring Compressor for GM LS www.amazon.com/dp/B07QN8H7T4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_33FH526CY7G4DQ1VYTAV you can only do one at a time but seems to be a quality tool by a trusted brand. It is icon brand. It’s my go to ratchet it gets used almost daily and I haven’t had any issues out of it other then have to retighten the screw to the flex head every month or so.
Thanks!!!
Hope it helped!
I have a real space issue with my 5.3 swap. Can I use a different balancer with a lower profile water pump?
I would look into getting a car water pump and accessories, or look at aftermarket brackets to move the accessories where you need them. ICT Billet makes good affordable products.
@@3rdGenC10s - Thanks. That’s where I’m headed. I think I’m going with an LSA pump and LS3 balancer, at least to begin with. Once that gets sorted, I’ll get with ICT Billet or similar shop for accessory drives and components. I appreciate the quick reply. By the way, great video!
@@familyschnekser4819 no problem! Thanks for the support!
Do you have to make a mark to install it back in the same position in relation to the crank shaft?
No sir just press it on.
what is the torque spec of that bolt when you want to return?
240 pound feet with a final pass of 140 degrees.
th-cam.com/video/JCU4FwXJ0C0/w-d-xo.html
You’ll need to purchase a factory replacement crank bolt as they are torque to yield and should only be used once. I used a ARP fastener that is reusable.
@@3rdGenC10s thank you for this info
@@3rdGenC10s will the bolt work on a regular 2010 suburban 5.3?
@@comaradelee should work no problem.
A chrysler tool for a chevy
Not dumb if it works
15/16
???
The screw is regular tread or is opposite
What do you do when you break an ear off the balancer? Lol
Are you able to flip the jaws of the puller around and hook the balancer itself?
Not with the 8" puller I have but ill het a smaller set and try it
@@BWalk80 let me know how it goes.
Had to ise the sbc puller and use some steel flat plates drilled holes put them between the balancer and puller and played hell doing that lol
I’ve only removed a couple and never had any of the ears break off.