Add a socket drive into your tool bag because openend wrenching takes too long. Anway, why are you concerned about having the top frame level? I just make sure it's even from the log center at both ends, but never worry about any leveling. Making a straight plane is the only priority, and all the following sections will be true. BTW, I use this same mill with a Skihl MS661C and it goes through fir like a hot knife through butter. Thanks for posting these videos!
Sounds like you do something similar. Can these mills cut to 5/4" ? I've got cherry trees that were just dropped and I don't want them turned into firewood. It's too nice a wood for that. The guy who made the video isn't answering any questions or comments. Why isn't int important to level the rails?
@@beebob1279 it sort of is important to level the rails (it's not the actual level that matters just that you're cutting flat and consistent) even at both ends works too but you still want to have a way to check rail relationship side to side and making them level is the simplest way to see that they are staying "parallel" since the tree is thicker at one end than the other. The reality is you just want to make sure you're cutting on two straight rails that have the same relationship to each other the entire length of the cut. It would be fine if you had a method to make sure one side was 15 degrees lower the entire way as long as you consistently were on the same slope. Might be a little more dangerous just trying to illustrate the idea.
@@brianb7388 Yeah. I finished the job last year. I used a small Alaskan mill to cut over 900 board feet of Cherry. It's drying under the porch. I'm going to make flooring and some cabinets from it.
if you haven't already tried a modified milling chain you should try one. they cut smoother , faster, and takes less power for the same cut. I made my own that were similar to granberg ripping chain, with alternating knife edge cutters and then clearing cutters. I set the rakers of my knife edge cutters at .060 depth and the clearing cutters were set at .035. I set the both style of cutter at a 5 degree angle. this setup worked wonderful for me. It enabled me to cut thousands of board feet of lumber using just a small chainsaw. I used my ported husky 262xp and cut up to 22" lumber.
No idea you did this one, Cody. Great overview. One thing to stress using a mill like this is don't be in a hurry. Take it slow and give your saw a break. I've milled lots of 2x4 and 2x6 with one. Works good.
I don't know how this got recommended to me, but its pretty cool. I know nothing about any of this, but as a former pastry chef, when I started out I used a metal cake cutter to get uniform whole cake horizontal slices. That's how I had to think of this to understand what he was doing. Over the years, I progressed to just using long square wooden dowels of different heights ( I would have made/purchase at Home Depot) as as a guide for my whole cake slice heights.I think logging trees and doing this stuff is very interesting.
why are you using level. the framework creates flat surface. if the log is huge but leaning up the hill. your level is worthless and unnecessary. dont use the LEVEL. lay framework flat on desired side of the log and cut. it is already FLAT!. throw away the Level.
Let show how incompetent most you tubers can be. Have you ever thought of not having to dog the log. 4 standing legs floating the rails over the log and a Few contact points seems to be less amateur
So you cut a 6x6 but your only 1/2 done....How did you fet the side cuts to make the 6x6????
Add a socket drive into your tool bag because openend wrenching takes too long. Anway, why are you concerned about having the top frame level? I just make sure it's even from the log center at both ends, but never worry about any leveling. Making a straight plane is the only priority, and all the following sections will be true. BTW, I use this same mill with a Skihl MS661C and it goes through fir like a hot knife through butter. Thanks for posting these videos!
Sounds like you do something similar. Can these mills cut to 5/4" ? I've got cherry trees that were just dropped and I don't want them turned into firewood. It's too nice a wood for that. The guy who made the video isn't answering any questions or comments. Why isn't int important to level the rails?
@@beebob1279 it sort of is important to level the rails (it's not the actual level that matters just that you're cutting flat and consistent) even at both ends works too but you still want to have a way to check rail relationship side to side and making them level is the simplest way to see that they are staying "parallel" since the tree is thicker at one end than the other. The reality is you just want to make sure you're cutting on two straight rails that have the same relationship to each other the entire length of the cut. It would be fine if you had a method to make sure one side was 15 degrees lower the entire way as long as you consistently were on the same slope. Might be a little more dangerous just trying to illustrate the idea.
@@brianb7388 Yeah. I finished the job last year. I used a small Alaskan mill to cut over 900 board feet of Cherry. It's drying under the porch. I'm going to make flooring and some cabinets from it.
West Coast guys need to wear a helmet when running a chainsaw mill...
if you haven't already tried a modified milling chain you should try one. they cut smoother , faster, and takes less power for the same cut. I made my own that were similar to granberg ripping chain, with alternating knife edge cutters and then clearing cutters. I set the rakers of my knife edge cutters at .060 depth and the clearing cutters were set at .035. I set the both style of cutter at a 5 degree angle. this setup worked wonderful for me. It enabled me to cut thousands of board feet of lumber using just a small chainsaw. I used my ported husky 262xp and cut up to 22" lumber.
Are you using or recommend using a ripping chainsaw chain
What chainsaw mill and guide is this ? Thanks
Hướng dẫn cách làm khung với
No idea you did this one, Cody. Great overview. One thing to stress using a mill like this is don't be in a hurry. Take it slow and give your saw a break. I've milled lots of 2x4 and 2x6 with one. Works good.
I don't know how this got recommended to me, but its pretty cool. I know nothing about any of this, but as a former pastry chef, when I started out I used a metal cake cutter to get uniform whole cake horizontal slices. That's how I had to think of this to understand what he was doing.
Over the years, I progressed to just using long square wooden dowels of different heights ( I would have made/purchase at Home Depot) as as a guide for my whole cake slice heights.I think logging trees and doing this stuff is very interesting.
I missed the name of the timber track or jig, help?
I watch Cody's channel all the time....why haven't I seen this one?
I thought you could show when cutting timber
Awesome awesome, thank you for sharing.
Ever try screwing your ladder down
What do you do if your log is not the even rail length i.e. 8' or 5' (or the combination thereof)?
What type of chain is the best for these types of Mills?
Hello to Alicia,from back-of-the-land Butch. Butch and Eileen
Thank You cody
why are you using level. the framework creates flat surface. if the log is huge but leaning up the hill. your level is worthless and unnecessary. dont use the LEVEL. lay framework flat on desired side of the log and cut. it is already FLAT!. throw away the Level.
rynait your a hack
no it is not level
Let show how incompetent most you tubers can be. Have you ever thought of not having to dog the log. 4 standing legs floating the rails over the log and a Few contact points seems to be less amateur
Remember to use the right blade on your saw. A regular blade won't work as good. Use a ripping blade
*chain
What a cool innovation. I'll have to pick one up. Thanks!
Whoever made this video didn't respond to one comment or question.
U set it to 6in you'll get a 5 and something after it dries Jesus
Very good video