mate thank you so much for taking the time to put the mask info in the description, i lost my voice last week milling all day, and the masks from screwfix were close to £200 so thnk you!
Great tips for Alaskan chainsaw milling. I just got started with an MS660 clone and a 28" bar. My little tip is use a longer bar/chain. Sure it's more than I need for what I am milling but the advantage of the longer bar (as we see in your video) is that the chain is out of the cut for much longer time and the number of cutting teeth is much greater so each tooth is sharing the load much more than a smaller bar/chain. I am now ordering a 36" which should be better for cutting the 12"-18" widths I need from my current lumber.
Awesome demonstration thanks! Only tip I would add is to make sure that your walking path is clear. Don't trip over debris while you're cutting. I especially like the tip about shutting you're tool boxes while working! I've forgotten a few times and had to shake out the tool box . . . dumb! Thanks again FloweringElbow!
Hey Ryan, thanks for the encouragement and the point about having a clear working area - that's one I forget/ willfully ignore all too often, usually to my detriment.
A brush is a good tip for me, since I usually use compressed air to blow everything clean. Not much option to get compressed air when you are in the woods. Using the rail for every cut is a very good safety tip. Thanks for that. I usually sharpen the chain with a 12v Granberg chain sharpener before long sessions. I monitor the duty cycle of my Stihl carefully, and let it cool down for more time than the cut time. I really appreciate your tip about 45 degree angle cuts, lubricating with cheap oil, and wrapping the bar with rubber. All things I had never considered. I usually remember to put in the ear plugs, hearing protection and respirator, but often forget when other people are helping to have another set. I wear heavy leather gloves, heavy coat and hard shoes when using a chainsaw. (Stihl chaps, for helpers) I've been using plastic shims, but will change to the type you showed with a much longer taper. I use a log dog to move logs. Moving logs and slabs is a headache, as is working in an environment with slopes, rocks, boulders and debris. A rope, nylon strap and/or even a come along can be useful. If the bark is loose, I try to remove it before milling. Tools for that is helpful. I keep a first aid box with bandaids, blood clotting powder, compression wraps, athletic tape & snake bite kit. (Especially for when someone else is helping me).
Hi Larry, thanks so much for sharing your experience with us. Are you running the saw at idle to let it cool, or just off? That duty cycle is very generous on the saw? Thanks again for sharing and for watching. appreciate that :D
@@FloweringElbow Cool down means off. I'm very mindful to never overheat my chainsaws. It keeps them working like new much longer. Also careful to never run out of gas or oil while cutting. A little care goes a long way
I milled my first slabs this past weekend in some 16" northern pine. After a few passes through a 4' long log and my saw was empty. I have cut down alot of trees in my younger days but I have never burned through fuel so fast. I do have a larger saw (stihl ms440 magnum) so I should have expected it but after only 20 mins of hard sawing my saw was dry. That was hardest I ever pushed my saw but it didn't bog down once. I do have to get a skip tooth ripping chain. It would make cutting alot easier and faster. I'm really enjoying this newfound hobby and cant wait to work my handsawn material in the shop.
Good morning Matt, thank you for getting in touch. Sounds like you're getting the cs milling bug ;) Yeah, when you think about the amount of time actually running wide open throttle during ground work, you can see why the difference in fuel consumption. Milling is basically 100% WOT. I recon general ground work and cross cutting can be something like 10-40% depending on how full on you go, the rest of the time you are thinking, moving, unsnagging yourself etc. If you're not bogging the saw down milling, then I'm not sure a skip tooth ripping chain will be a whole load better. Have you seen the vid on sharpening? It goes into standard vs ripping chains a bit. You might want to try filling the depth gauges a bit if the saw's not having any problems - one of the biggest differences between stock rip and crosscut chains is the depth gauge height (rip chains tending to take a bigger bite)... Thanks again, Bongo.
I just watched this video th-cam.com/video/653fEhYC0SQ/w-d-xo.html about Granberg Ripping Chain which resulted in finding this one here. Someone in a German Chainsaw Forum recommended to file down a 10° chain like this. He claims to cut almost 2 times faster with a severe lower fuel consumtion. Link to his post: motorsaegen-portal.de/viewtopic.php?f=61&t=111932#p1732085 Might be an idea, I just ran through 2 tanks on my 064 (3/8", 1 meter) cutting a 1,6m, 45cm diameter Maple into 7 or 8 boards
I'm still very new to chainsaw milling but before I ever made my first cut I let the saw idle for 1 minute and when I was done cutting I let it idle for 2-3 minutes. I definitely don't want to kill my saw.
Thanks for the advice friend! This made my first attempt at chainsaw milling a productive and enjoyable experience. I was able to get some very nice slabs out of some oak logs left by a recent forestry harvest on our land. Cedar shingle off cuts make very nice wedges you don't need to worry about breaking.
Did you know we have written a whole book on Chainsaw milling?!?? If you got something out of this video and would like to take your milling knowledge to the next level you can get the book here: play.google.com/store/books/details?id=A15aEAAAQBAJ Your support lets us make videos like this :) If you're getting into CS milling check out our other videos on this playlist: page.video/chainsaw_milling
Saw arrived yesterday th-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and today I cut about 3/4 cord of wood with it. Make sure you get an extension chord that is at least 12 gauge wire, minimum. This is my first electric in about 10 years, and things sure have improved. The self-sharpener works great, and it just kept cutting through some pretty decent logs. Wear your eye protection, and ear protection. Excellent saw.
Nice video,thank You👍🏻One tip i would like to add:if you cutting lets say 18” slab,dont use 36” bar for this,use 20” bar instead.You’ll be surprice what your saw’s capable.It’s good to have a good variety of sawbars.Just my toughts. Thank You👍🏻
Well even after taking the dogs off the saw (which you should absolutely do when milling) you are already going to lose 2 inches+. I'm about to go start up my 660 on a granburg and I couldnt do an 18in with a 20. Min 22. That being said, Im running 28 to cut 22-24. I want the extra chain out of the cut so the saw doesn't heat up as fast.
Just found your channel. I've just ordered a mill and have 65 acres to explore cutting my own lumber. This video shares a wealth of knowledge, especially some tips I wouldn't have considered. Thanks, and I'll be checking out your other vids!
Great tips in this video! I really appreciated the advice about starting and finishing cuts smoothly-it’s something I often overlook. Also, the idea of using a ladder for checking straight cuts is genius! Have you had any other experiences where small adjustments made a big impact? Looking forward to hearing more from you!
@chrisross9631 Hi Chris thanks for this. There are so many elements that make up a nice smooth cut it's hard to single any out. If you're interested in this, maybe check out our book available on the flowering elbow ko-fi page. Thanks again for watching.
Absolutely the best video on the proper way to use the mill I've seen yet. And I've seen hundreds where they just talked about themselves. Very useful for me....
Hello my good old friend BONGO. Was such a great thing for me to run into your video Sir. Hope all is well and you keep on making great things for us all to see and learn from. You rock fella. Peace Vic
I wish I could have given 2 thumbs up. haha...I have been logging since 1999, but am just about to start researching some chainsaw milling using my Echo CS-620PW with a 27" bar. Just to start. I've actually free-hand milled some 18" (green) red oak with a CS-400, but it took flippin' forever. It worked, though. I'd imagine the 620P should be a bit quicker, and I have a buddy milling some beautiful planks with a 590 Timberwolf and a $200 Granberg (?) mill setup, with really nice results. I'm loving this whole concept, so thank you for some good pointers ~ I'll be trying them soon!
Thanks man! means a lot. Hand milling is tricky, but possible - so much technique involved - am in awe of people that can do it well. Checkout some of my other vids on CS milling for more up to date tips. Best of luck with it!
I started sharpening my chains with a Dremel I got at home depot. You can get a rechargeable one you can take into the woods or a plug in one. They have tons of attachments for all kinds of stuff and the one for sharpening chains comes with 3 different size grinding stones and an attachment so you get the perfect angle. Its a whole lot faster than using files.
Interesting thanks. Looking into this, seems a nice in field option. How long do you find the grinding stones last? What type? Does the dia. of the stone change during use much?
@@FloweringElbow I've used them alot and they work great, just don't buy the cheap bits. Get the good bits from Dremel, Oregon, or other name brand. I've had the cheap ones not last through one sharpening but, I've had name brand ones last me longer than files.
@@FloweringElbow when I first started sharpening chains with the Dremel I was staying on each tooth way too long and by the time I had finished two yellow dot chains for my 30" bar, but once I figured it out I get about 6 to 10 sharpenings for chains on the 30 inch bar. I ran out of grinding stone bits and I was in a pinch so I ground the rest of the stone off of the rod that holds it in the Dremel then took one of my cheaper 3/16 or4.8mm files and cut a piece off about 1" inch long then used my drill press to drill a hole perfectly in the center the same size as the rod the stone was on and secured it with Gorilla fast drying super glue. You would be surprised how good it works even though it's not sharpening in the right direction cause it's spinning. When u made the next one I secured it with J.B. Weld cause the other one came loose and flew off. And yes it did change the diameter of the stone. Hope this helps. I did buy the Dremel brand Dremel. Amazon has them or if you get on eBay and type refurbished in front of whatever you want to buy except underwear haha you get a pretty good deal and some of it is actually brand new.
Just watch you don't burn the teeth when using any kind of powered grinder to sharpen. They're small and will heat up pretty quick and get brittle. Filing only takes a couple minutes with a little practice, and you'll never risk burning the teeth up. Plus, files are cheap and don't have batteries that you can forget to charge.
Reasonable and safe when using a really big saw out there by yourself. Will be using your tips on my more urban project cutting a very large diameter black walnut. Thanks!
Add a winch and snatch block. It is a must have mod. I know I know 'dont push and all that but my saw thrives with a bit more load on it than a chain pulling through will put on it. It improved the speed, finish, and efficiency of my cuts too. Try it!
Hey Bongo, it was great fun. Ended up with sixteen 6ft by 1ft by 1-1/2" cherry slabs and some other experimental off cuts. The logs cost $40 from a local fire wood cutter including delivery! Your tip about stopping to enjoying the experience of milling rings true.
I am seeing a lot of people saying that you should use the straight edge always when running alone. I am watching videos before firing up my own Alaskan sawmill for the first time ever. I am no stranger to mills but never used the Alaskan mill yet.
Hi Tony. That's really great to hear! Wish you lots of luck with it. Let me know how it goes. Cool tractor vids BTW. Love the little dude with the demountable digging boom... Peace, Bongo.
Thank you for the info, greatly appreciated. I just built my first mill. Got a 36" bar for my saw, and plan to start milling my own lumber very soon. So thanks a lot!
@@FloweringElbow So I did get my mill workin. I fell a large spruce and milled 4 of 26" wide x 9' long, 3.5" thick slabs and a 7"x7"x9' beam for a family dining table. Along with a bunch of thinner slabs for future projects. Your tips and info was extremely helpful. So thank you again! I intend to go back and mill the rest of the tree. No sense in wasting any of it. It was a blast and I am totally hooked.
Thanks for the tip on using the ladder for subsequent cuts. First time ever using a sawmill today, I did the first leveling cuts on two red oak logs (didn't wanna keep adjusting the height bar back and forth) and the thought of trying to maneuver a heavy mill while keeping it perfectly level until the second bar finally connects does not sit well with me. Very helpful!
Paints wedges blue, next milling job - bluebell woods 😁😁 A colleague of mine set out about a hundred trenches one week with blue pegs. Next week they came to machine them and all the thistles were in flower
Top ends seem to last substantially longer with a 33:1 or similar fuel-oil ratio compared to 50:1. Main crank bearing wear seems also reduced on saws I've seen with 3000+ hours on them. I've never seen a saw with that many hours and still kicking running 50:1 :P
Yeah, interesting. I have heard similar before, and I do tend to generous mixing with the oil. My only reservation, is that the fumes when burning more oil are even less pleasant...
Loved the vid. Done a bit of chainsaw milling. I also use a ladder on all cuts, makes entering and exiting cut a lot easier. And then with the long ladder I can do 5 meter slabs. Had the 661, getting a 461 next week. Going to put carbide chain on it from Rapco industries. Apparently the cuts are almost planer smooth and the carbide does about 4-5 times the work before it needs a resharpen and cuts easier than steel putting less strain on engine.
Hi, Paul. Any update to your carbide chain for ripping? Does it produce smoother cuts and longer lasting? Can you resharpen it using regular equipment?
I no longer use wedges, in large part because they tend to either lift the guide level, or like to fall out. Additionally, they need to be inserted from both sides of the log. To overcome these issues I have cut a large collection of slats the same thickness as the chainsaw kerf. I slide them in without undue pressure and they are wide enough to support all the way through.
Digging the happy Vibes Bro. About to make a mill. Going threaded rod/ board combo. Have a 42 inch bar. 37 inch Ash Log. Too large for my bandsaw mill. Gonna saw 8" slabs. Transfer to Woodmizer. Resaw into lumber.
Hey Kyle. It's a good question, but one with lots of factors. What type of wood will you be cutting? How dry is it? How much of it? In general, I recommend the biggest saw you can afford, which gives options for doing big logs and will make smaller ones quicker... I burned through a few ms440 engines doing logs 1m in diameter, before getting an ms880, which is what I use to this day. Hope that helps, sorry there is no perfect answer for this one...
@@FloweringElbow I bought the Honeywell mask. Now for the cartridges I wonder if it’s better to buy the combined vapor+particulates, or attach them separately. I wonder how quickly does the filter clogs with wood dust?
Cristijn de Vin nice tip. I actually had that on my setup but didn't get on with it when the log had uneven edges. The roller wheel would want to push the saw too much into the cut when 'rolling down' into nooks. It was very nice on straight trunks though..
FloweringElbow ; i recognise what you are saying; but if i dont use the wheels the saw can pull itself tight against the first stand of your mill. Nice tips! Tnx. And tip #18; use Aspen fuel!
alot of good tips! ive saw several others on youtube recommending a winch on the mill,like stated in this video your saw should pull itself through the wood if the chain is sharp....
That's my feeling anyway. I imagine it would be easy to keep sawing long past when the chain should be sharpened... That and the fact it's all extra setup time and kit to transport mean I haven't ever actually tried a winch, so can't really comment ;)
LOL. Can't wait until you've bought 5 chainsaws and built yourself a log trailer and a kiln for your "light hobby". (or at least that's what happened to me when I said that...)
I’d be keen to hear your tips on sharpening chains for milling. Any tips for smaller saws? I’m only using a Chinese 62cc saw and it’s not quite man enough
Only to limit the log size you attempt, not rush and possibly to try a skip tooth chain. I believe oregon does one with only about 12 cutters for a whole big 120cm bar. Not tried it though.
Tip 18 Make sure you have a clean working space while operating and think about what can go wrong concerning safety. Then you can better prevent accidents ;)
The important thing you definitely already know. The sharpening angle of the saw chain when sawing longitudinal wood must be 10° insted 35°. The saw blade remains stable and the table surface is smooth. 🙂
Great sharing of knowledge and experience, agree with everything you've said.. I hadn't thought about the slowing down on exit though, makes sense. One tip for your next video is to try and mill down hill, I learned that one very quickly...
Since Ive watched this video Ive milled around 300 slabs. Im coming around to using the ladder on almost every cut now. Mostly because of the safety factor on starting the cut. I usually dont have the luxury of having the log elevated off the ground since they are big trees I mill. I wish there was a way to redirect the exhaust in a different direction since it kicks up a lot of dust and fumes on the last couple cuts. Maybe sthil can come up with something. I still swear by the winch.
Good morning Darren. Thanks for your comment. Check out some of my other vids on CS milling for this... basically it is just screwed on from the end, and a couple of places along the length. Thanks again, bongo.
I've got a tip: trim the limbs right down to the tree. The engine rides along the tree (the chain pulls it in) and running into limb nubs will really throw off your groove.
I started using an Alaska sawmill about three years ago I ended up with two different size ones because the big one (36”) is harder to control on smaller trees one thing I noticed was the coming off the log and going on the log after about the third cut it starts getting wavy on the ends I have been trying to figure how I could mount the ladder for each cut to prevent this. I saw you do it I just wish you would’ve explained a little better on how to secure the ladder for subsequent cuts without ruining the board with holes especially if you’re doing wide trees the ladder will be more in the middle therefore you’ll have screw holes in the boards
Hi Albert, Thanks for your message. Sorry not to have covered that, there's only so many details one can put in these things. As you say the in and out parts of the cuts are the places where error tends to build - and has the most danger. I have found that with my ladder, after the first cut, unless things go wrong, a couple of screws in the end grain, is enough... Otherwise it's just the mills weight holding it. The mills skid is running along the log itself, so apart from some rattling, there shouldn't be any sideways forces on the ladder.... Of course if the log isn't level side to side, it's a different story. Then you have the option of biting the bullet and putting in some extra screws, or arranging some kind of other clamping system, or working on the technique required to do it without the ladder... Many options depending on circumstances. Good luck, let me know how it goes, Bongo.
Looking for advice i have a 30in round tree in my backyard already head cut down any recommendations on what kind of chainsaw and mill a beginner should get
Hey. Good question. 30" diameter is a reasonable size. In terms of saw and mill, do you envision using the mill in the future on other trees? If so maybe just consider getting it right first time. A ms 661 is a popular size saw for a mill the gets used occasionally. We use an ms 880... As for mill we made ours. Tons more info and plans written on that - just Google floweringelbow chainsaw mill instructable...
Hi there, thanks for watching. Yes lots of tips for this exact problem are in my chainsaw sharpening video. Check it out and let me know if it helps ;)
Great video you make if look so easy .Makes me want to have a go now i have some clear instructions and a good starting point .i enjoy building sheds and tree houses from reclaimed timber as i work in a skip yard,but this is the other extreme using freshly milled timber and a welcome contrast.just subbed and will be watching more.
Another tip , never sharpen your chainsaw on a open oak log. it will leave black spots all over it . 2. After a cut , take the saw out and give it a few revs , it will reoil the bar and get rid of all the extra sawdust in the grove. 3. Check the rakers on the chain , that will make a big difference from dust to small chips of wood. always use a gage for this.\ 4. check your bar (if long one) from the tip down wile on the ladder ... if the saw is heavy and not set correctly it might have a bend in the bar. 5. if the log is big , use the ladder closest to the chainsaw , so you control and see the cut , if it lifts of the ladder or not. And many others ... GOOD LUCK
Thank you so much for sharing,great tips too mate.I'm hopefully going to finish my home made mill tomorrow and cut my first trunk down into slabs.You made it look so easy so I'm feeling confident tonight.Thank you brother
This was a great video. and so helpful to me! Thank you for sharing
mate thank you so much for taking the time to put the mask info in the description, i lost my voice last week milling all day, and the masks from screwfix were close to £200 so thnk you!
Very welcome friend!
Great tips for Alaskan chainsaw milling. I just got started with an MS660 clone and a 28" bar. My little tip is use a longer bar/chain. Sure it's more than I need for what I am milling but the advantage of the longer bar (as we see in your video) is that the chain is out of the cut for much longer time and the number of cutting teeth is much greater so each tooth is sharing the load much more than a smaller bar/chain. I am now ordering a 36" which should be better for cutting the 12"-18" widths I need from my current lumber.
Thank you for all those important tips. Seeing your older clips makes me milling with my MS 660 and you are right. Pure fun in the nature.
Awesome demonstration thanks! Only tip I would add is to make sure that your walking path is clear. Don't trip over debris while you're cutting. I especially like the tip about shutting you're tool boxes while working! I've forgotten a few times and had to shake out the tool box . . . dumb! Thanks again FloweringElbow!
Hey Ryan, thanks for the encouragement and the point about having a clear working area - that's one I forget/ willfully ignore all too often, usually to my detriment.
One of the best videos so far! I haven't seen them all, yet. Key word. YET.
A brush is a good tip for me, since I usually use compressed air to blow everything clean. Not much option to get compressed air when you are in the woods.
Using the rail for every cut is a very good safety tip. Thanks for that.
I usually sharpen the chain with a 12v Granberg chain sharpener before long sessions.
I monitor the duty cycle of my Stihl carefully, and let it cool down for more time than the cut time.
I really appreciate your tip about 45 degree angle cuts, lubricating with cheap oil, and wrapping the bar with rubber. All things I had never considered.
I usually remember to put in the ear plugs, hearing protection and respirator, but often forget when other people are helping to have another set.
I wear heavy leather gloves, heavy coat and hard shoes when using a chainsaw. (Stihl chaps, for helpers)
I've been using plastic shims, but will change to the type you showed with a much longer taper.
I use a log dog to move logs. Moving logs and slabs is a headache, as is working in an environment with slopes, rocks, boulders and debris. A rope, nylon strap and/or even a come along can be useful.
If the bark is loose, I try to remove it before milling. Tools for that is helpful.
I keep a first aid box with bandaids, blood clotting powder, compression wraps, athletic tape & snake bite kit. (Especially for when someone else is helping me).
Hi Larry, thanks so much for sharing your experience with us. Are you running the saw at idle to let it cool, or just off? That duty cycle is very generous on the saw?
Thanks again for sharing and for watching. appreciate that :D
@@FloweringElbow Cool down means off. I'm very mindful to never overheat my chainsaws. It keeps them working like new much longer. Also careful to never run out of gas or oil while cutting. A little care goes a long way
This was the most helpful tip video I have found about chain saw milling. Thank you
Best video I've seen on chainsaw milling so far. Thank you! Great cuts!
Hey thanks Seth, check out the more recent one's for updated tips ;)
Awesome awesome, thank you for sharing, love your videos.
I milled my first slabs this past weekend in some 16" northern pine. After a few passes through a 4' long log and my saw was empty. I have cut down alot of trees in my younger days but I have never burned through fuel so fast. I do have a larger saw (stihl ms440 magnum) so I should have expected it but after only 20 mins of hard sawing my saw was dry. That was hardest I ever pushed my saw but it didn't bog down once. I do have to get a skip tooth ripping chain. It would make cutting alot easier and faster. I'm really enjoying this newfound hobby and cant wait to work my handsawn material in the shop.
Good morning Matt, thank you for getting in touch. Sounds like you're getting the cs milling bug ;)
Yeah, when you think about the amount of time actually running wide open throttle during ground work, you can see why the difference in fuel consumption. Milling is basically 100% WOT. I recon general ground work and cross cutting can be something like 10-40% depending on how full on you go, the rest of the time you are thinking, moving, unsnagging yourself etc.
If you're not bogging the saw down milling, then I'm not sure a skip tooth ripping chain will be a whole load better. Have you seen the vid on sharpening? It goes into standard vs ripping chains a bit. You might want to try filling the depth gauges a bit if the saw's not having any problems - one of the biggest differences between stock rip and crosscut chains is the depth gauge height (rip chains tending to take a bigger bite)...
Thanks again,
Bongo.
I just watched this video th-cam.com/video/653fEhYC0SQ/w-d-xo.html about Granberg Ripping Chain which resulted in finding this one here. Someone in a German Chainsaw Forum recommended to file down a 10° chain like this. He claims to cut almost 2 times faster with a severe lower fuel consumtion. Link to his post: motorsaegen-portal.de/viewtopic.php?f=61&t=111932#p1732085
Might be an idea, I just ran through 2 tanks on my 064 (3/8", 1 meter) cutting a 1,6m, 45cm diameter Maple into 7 or 8 boards
Tip #1 should be “Warm up your saw before cutting.” This will help the piston and exhaust port to warm evenly and extend the life of the saw.
Nice tip Patrick, thanks for sharing.
You are absolutely correct. That saw is a precision piece of machinery built to close tolerances. Early grave if you don’t warm it up-
I'm still very new to chainsaw milling but before I ever made my first cut I let the saw idle for 1 minute and when I was done cutting I let it idle for 2-3 minutes. I definitely don't want to kill my saw.
No matter what you are cutting, a chainsaw should always be warmed up. If you plan on rebuilding your saw each year or two then do what you like.
Thanks for the advice friend! This made my first attempt at chainsaw milling a productive and enjoyable experience. I was able to get some very nice slabs out of some oak logs left by a recent forestry harvest on our land. Cedar shingle off cuts make very nice wedges you don't need to worry about breaking.
Hi Wehttam, great to hear that, thanks for reporting back :D
Did you know we have written a whole book on Chainsaw milling?!?? If you got something out of this video and would like to take your milling knowledge to the next level you can get the book here: play.google.com/store/books/details?id=A15aEAAAQBAJ
Your support lets us make videos like this :)
If you're getting into CS milling check out our other videos on this playlist: page.video/chainsaw_milling
Saw arrived yesterday th-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and today I cut about 3/4 cord of wood with it. Make sure you get an extension chord that is at least 12 gauge wire, minimum. This is my first electric in about 10 years, and things sure have improved. The self-sharpener works great, and it just kept cutting through some pretty decent logs. Wear your eye protection, and ear protection. Excellent saw.
I liked the tip nr. 9 the most! But actually all of them were really great! Thank you!
Thanks for the tips! Proud owner of a big bad Husqvarna 395XP and I just ordered a ripping chain. About to order a grandberg sawmill.
Hey, thanks for watching. Good luck with the milling!
Thanks for the tips it's so important
Nice video,thank You👍🏻One tip i would like to add:if you cutting lets say 18” slab,dont use 36” bar for this,use 20” bar instead.You’ll be surprice what your saw’s capable.It’s good to have a good variety of sawbars.Just my toughts.
Thank You👍🏻
Well even after taking the dogs off the saw (which you should absolutely do when milling) you are already going to lose 2 inches+. I'm about to go start up my 660 on a granburg and I couldnt do an 18in with a 20. Min 22.
That being said, Im running 28 to cut 22-24.
I want the extra chain out of the cut so the saw doesn't heat up as fast.
Just found your channel. I've just ordered a mill and have 65 acres to explore cutting my own lumber. This video shares a wealth of knowledge, especially some tips I wouldn't have considered. Thanks, and I'll be checking out your other vids!
Welcome Tim. Sounds like you have some satisfying but challenging learning ahead. Great to hear from you,,
Bongo.
These tips sounds like good advice for first time a nal
Great tips in this video! I really appreciated the advice about starting and finishing cuts smoothly-it’s something I often overlook. Also, the idea of using a ladder for checking straight cuts is genius! Have you had any other experiences where small adjustments made a big impact? Looking forward to hearing more from you!
@chrisross9631 Hi Chris thanks for this. There are so many elements that make up a nice smooth cut it's hard to single any out. If you're interested in this, maybe check out our book available on the flowering elbow ko-fi page. Thanks again for watching.
Excellent info.
Glad you think so, thanks for watching :D
Absolutely the best video on the proper way to use the mill I've seen yet. And I've seen hundreds where they just talked about themselves. Very useful for me....
Hello my good old friend BONGO. Was such a great thing for me to run into your video Sir. Hope all is well and you keep on making great things for us all to see and learn from. You rock fella. Peace Vic
Thanks Vic 😊 always a pleasure 🙏
@@FloweringElbow Just hope I get a chance this year to visit the large island. Will surprise you fella. Peace vf
I wish I could have given 2 thumbs up. haha...I have been logging since 1999, but am just about to start researching some chainsaw milling using my Echo CS-620PW with a 27" bar. Just to start. I've actually free-hand milled some 18" (green) red oak with a CS-400, but it took flippin' forever. It worked, though. I'd imagine the 620P should be a bit quicker, and I have a buddy milling some beautiful planks with a 590 Timberwolf and a $200 Granberg (?) mill setup, with really nice results. I'm loving this whole concept, so thank you for some good pointers ~ I'll be trying them soon!
Thanks man! means a lot. Hand milling is tricky, but possible - so much technique involved - am in awe of people that can do it well. Checkout some of my other vids on CS milling for more up to date tips. Best of luck with it!
@@FloweringElbow - thank you! I'll do that.
Very helpful. Thank you for sharing your expertise!
Glad it was helpful friend :D Cool vids BTW, I had a quick look at your channel.
@@FloweringElbow Thank you! I plan on using my slabs for a workbench and a mountain bike trail. Really appreciate it!
Great tips thanks for sharing , love your hat, wishing you the best.
You're a super great guy... bless you
I started sharpening my chains with a Dremel I got at home depot. You can get a rechargeable one you can take into the woods or a plug in one. They have tons of attachments for all kinds of stuff and the one for sharpening chains comes with 3 different size grinding stones and an attachment so you get the perfect angle. Its a whole lot faster than using files.
Interesting thanks. Looking into this, seems a nice in field option. How long do you find the grinding stones last? What type? Does the dia. of the stone change during use much?
@@FloweringElbow I've used them alot and they work great, just don't buy the cheap bits. Get the good bits from Dremel, Oregon, or other name brand. I've had the cheap ones not last through one sharpening but, I've had name brand ones last me longer than files.
@@FloweringElbow when I first started sharpening chains with the Dremel I was staying on each tooth way too long and by the time I had finished two yellow dot chains for my 30" bar, but once I figured it out I get about 6 to 10 sharpenings for chains on the 30 inch bar. I ran out of grinding stone bits and I was in a pinch so I ground the rest of the stone off of the rod that holds it in the Dremel then took one of my cheaper 3/16 or4.8mm files and cut a piece off about 1" inch long then used my drill press to drill a hole perfectly in the center the same size as the rod the stone was on and secured it with Gorilla fast drying super glue. You would be surprised how good it works even though it's not sharpening in the right direction cause it's spinning. When u made the next one I secured it with J.B. Weld cause the other one came loose and flew off. And yes it did change the diameter of the stone. Hope this helps. I did buy the Dremel brand Dremel. Amazon has them or if you get on eBay and type refurbished in front of whatever you want to buy except underwear haha you get a pretty good deal and some of it is actually brand new.
Just watch you don't burn the teeth when using any kind of powered grinder to sharpen. They're small and will heat up pretty quick and get brittle. Filing only takes a couple minutes with a little practice, and you'll never risk burning the teeth up. Plus, files are cheap and don't have batteries that you can forget to charge.
Reasonable and safe when using a really big saw out there by yourself. Will be using your tips on my more urban project cutting a very large diameter black walnut. Thanks!
great tips man!! thank you so much
Add a winch and snatch block. It is a must have mod. I know I know 'dont push and all that but my saw thrives with a bit more load on it than a chain pulling through will put on it. It improved the speed, finish, and efficiency of my cuts too. Try it!
Thanks for sharing your feedback. I do plan to try it. Will report back....
I bent my bar after only 10 cuts. 😳 I wish I had seen this video before I dived in. Learned lots. Thanks.
Great video. I am milling my first logs this weekend....this is very relevant!!
Good morning Secretspy, thank you for reaching out, and good luck milling. Let me know how it goes?
Peace, Bongo.
Hey Bongo, it was great fun. Ended up with sixteen 6ft by 1ft by 1-1/2" cherry slabs and some other experimental off cuts. The logs cost $40 from a local fire wood cutter including delivery! Your tip about stopping to enjoying the experience of milling rings true.
I am seeing a lot of people saying that you should use the straight edge always when running alone. I am watching videos before firing up my own Alaskan sawmill for the first time ever. I am no stranger to mills but never used the Alaskan mill yet.
I recommend it. Not only save on cumulative error headaches, but way safer... Good luck friend. 👍
I really appreciate your video. I just ordered a push type chainsaw sawmill from Norwood. All of your tips make so much sense. Thank you again. Tony
Hi Tony. That's really great to hear! Wish you lots of luck with it. Let me know how it goes.
Cool tractor vids BTW. Love the little dude with the demountable digging boom...
Peace, Bongo.
Great job showing and telling, keep on sawing that wood, and loved those tips I’ll use them. So see ya on the next time have a great day.
Thank you for the info, greatly appreciated. I just built my first mill. Got a 36" bar for my saw, and plan to start milling my own lumber very soon. So thanks a lot!
Awesome! Let me know how it goes :D
@@FloweringElbow So I did get my mill workin. I fell a large spruce and milled 4 of 26" wide x 9' long, 3.5" thick slabs and a 7"x7"x9' beam for a family dining table. Along with a bunch of thinner slabs for future projects.
Your tips and info was extremely helpful. So thank you again!
I intend to go back and mill the rest of the tree. No sense in wasting any of it. It was a blast and I am totally hooked.
Hi@@blackflycanada4943, great! Heartening to hear :D
Thanks for the tip on using the ladder for subsequent cuts. First time ever using a sawmill today, I did the first leveling cuts on two red oak logs (didn't wanna keep adjusting the height bar back and forth) and the thought of trying to maneuver a heavy mill while keeping it perfectly level until the second bar finally connects does not sit well with me. Very helpful!
Great to hear. thanks Scott :D
Well done
Thank you very much for the tips!!!
You're so welcome!
Very nice informative video! Thanks for sharing, and your good knowledge!
I paint my wedges blue. Nothing in my area is blue. In autumn, about half the ground is red and orange. Good tips. Subbed.
Lolita's Garden nice tip. If / when I get round to painting them I may go blue... Will see what scrap paint I have ;)
Paints wedges blue, next milling job - bluebell woods 😁😁
A colleague of mine set out about a hundred trenches one week with blue pegs. Next week they came to machine them and all the thistles were in flower
You make awesome videos with this stuff.
Thanks!
I appreciate that, thanks Aaron!
Top ends seem to last substantially longer with a 33:1 or similar fuel-oil ratio compared to 50:1. Main crank bearing wear seems also reduced on saws I've seen with 3000+ hours on them. I've never seen a saw with that many hours and still kicking running 50:1 :P
Yeah, interesting. I have heard similar before, and I do tend to generous mixing with the oil. My only reservation, is that the fumes when burning more oil are even less pleasant...
Loved the vid. Done a bit of chainsaw milling. I also use a ladder on all cuts, makes entering and exiting cut a lot easier. And then with the long ladder I can do 5 meter slabs. Had the 661, getting a 461 next week. Going to put carbide chain on it from Rapco industries. Apparently the cuts are almost planer smooth and the carbide does about 4-5 times the work before it needs a resharpen and cuts easier than steel putting less strain on engine.
Hi, Paul. Any update to your carbide chain for ripping? Does it produce smoother cuts and longer lasting? Can you resharpen it using regular equipment?
Hey Paul, thanks for the comment. I too would like to know how the carbide experiment worked out?
I no longer use wedges, in large part because they tend to either lift the guide level, or like to fall out. Additionally, they need to be inserted from both sides of the log. To overcome these issues I have cut a large collection of slats the same thickness as the chainsaw kerf. I slide them in without undue pressure and they are wide enough to support all the way through.
Great tip!
Your tips are really good as most of them I have used.
Awesome video Man, really learnt some good things. 😁
Great video. Thank you.
Thanks Nathan, appreciate the encouragement :)
Wonderful. Thank you.
Our pleasure!
good video. some new information such as angle of attack very helpful.
Hi Gordon. Thanks for the encouragement. Peace, Bongo.
Digging the happy Vibes Bro. About to make a mill. Going threaded rod/ board combo. Have a 42 inch bar. 37 inch Ash Log. Too large for my bandsaw mill. Gonna saw 8" slabs. Transfer to Woodmizer. Resaw into lumber.
Hey thanks man 😃
Sounds like a plan.
@@FloweringElbow couldn't have done it without Y O U!!!
I'm in East Tennessee. Where abouts are you?
@@hiphop666 Thanks :D We're in Wales. Over the pond!
Enjoy your videos
Great tips thank you for posting
Very welcome Red Dog. Thanks for commenting.
Great tips. Thank you
Hey Jason, thanks for the encouragement, you're very welcome.
Tip #9; My Favorite!!
Really good video thanks
Good Afternoon Rylan, Thanks for your encouragement :D
Good job thank you 👍👍
Thanks for talking me out of chainsaw milling.
Hi Jesse. Thanks for the comment. Haha. It's a lot of work ;)
thx for the video. got a bunch of great advice out of it
Great to hear! Why not consider the ebook too 😉
Thanks for watching Ben, peace.
Entertaining and useful tips. I've ordered my mill and expect to benefit greatly from your experience. Thanks much.
Bryan Keeler thanks :D
Let me know how it goes...
so much fun, thanks
Hahah love the Starwars reference! thanks for the video!
Great video, great tips, easy to listen to, all in all, I like it. I subscribed.
Welcome Robert. Thanks man :D If you're into chainsaw milling, hopefully you'll like some of our other vids. Peace, Bongo.
Thanks for making this video. Looking to get started with my first slab harvester setup very soon here
Good luck!
This is cool and way helpful tip tip
Do you have any feedback concerning ideal engine and bar size for different diameter logs?
Hey Kyle. It's a good question, but one with lots of factors. What type of wood will you be cutting? How dry is it? How much of it? In general, I recommend the biggest saw you can afford, which gives options for doing big logs and will make smaller ones quicker... I burned through a few ms440 engines doing logs 1m in diameter, before getting an ms880, which is what I use to this day. Hope that helps, sorry there is no perfect answer for this one...
Yeah, bigga mo beta. The 660 and 880 have been working super good for hardwoods
Thanks for the advice on the respirator.
I’m gonna buy a good one.
You wont regret it :)
@@FloweringElbow
I bought the Honeywell mask. Now for the cartridges I wonder if it’s better to buy the combined vapor+particulates, or attach them separately.
I wonder how quickly does the filter clogs with wood dust?
@@paftaf Doesn't clog super quick in my experience...
@@FloweringElbow
I ordered the respirator cartridges. Looking forward to milling. My mill and ripping chain arrive next week.
@@paftaf Good luck! Let us know how it goes.
Nice my boss..👍
Keep safe to your freehand mill 🙂
i've putten some rollerbladewheels on my millframe, to guide it along the tree. works a dream!
Cristijn de Vin nice tip. I actually had that on my setup but didn't get on with it when the log had uneven edges. The roller wheel would want to push the saw too much into the cut when 'rolling down' into nooks. It was very nice on straight trunks though..
FloweringElbow ; i recognise what you are saying; but if i dont use the wheels the saw can pull itself tight against the first stand of your mill. Nice tips! Tnx. And tip #18; use Aspen fuel!
alot of good tips! ive saw several others on youtube recommending a winch on the mill,like stated in this video your saw should pull itself through the wood if the chain is sharp....
That's my feeling anyway. I imagine it would be easy to keep sawing long past when the chain should be sharpened... That and the fact it's all extra setup time and kit to transport mean I haven't ever actually tried a winch, so can't really comment ;)
Thanks for sharing, I think I am going to start milling as a light hobby.
LOL. Can't wait until you've bought 5 chainsaws and built yourself a log trailer and a kiln for your "light hobby". (or at least that's what happened to me when I said that...)
That was a great video thank you. My Alaskan sawmill just arrived a few minutes ago. Really great advice!
Good evening Big Tuna. Thank you for your comment. It's a steep learning curve and quit addictive ;) good luck with your new mill :)
as someone who never held a chainsaw... this was very interesting
I’d be keen to hear your tips on sharpening chains for milling. Any tips for smaller saws? I’m only using a Chinese 62cc saw and it’s not quite man enough
Only to limit the log size you attempt, not rush and possibly to try a skip tooth chain. I believe oregon does one with only about 12 cutters for a whole big 120cm bar. Not tried it though.
do you mean that they don't use scoring tips for the ripping chain, only the standard clearing tips?
I really liked this. Top milling.
Thanks Old School. Enjoyed some of your milling vids too ;)
Sending my full support .....
... nice work brother 👍❤️
Just subbed. Helpful thks.
Tip 18 Make sure you have a clean working space while operating and think about what can go wrong concerning safety. Then you can better prevent accidents ;)
Good advice for sure. Thanks Mat.
The important thing you definitely already know.
The sharpening angle of the saw chain when sawing longitudinal wood must be 10° insted 35°. The saw blade remains stable and the table surface is smooth.
🙂
Nice job 👍
Great sharing of knowledge and experience, agree with everything you've said.. I hadn't thought about the slowing down on exit though, makes sense. One tip for your next video is to try and mill down hill, I learned that one very quickly...
Yep, always mill on a slight slope if possible. Very good advice.
Since Ive watched this video Ive milled around 300 slabs. Im coming around to using the ladder on almost every cut now. Mostly because of the safety factor on starting the cut. I usually dont have the luxury of having the log elevated off the ground since they are big trees I mill. I wish there was a way to redirect the exhaust in a different direction since it kicks up a lot of dust and fumes on the last couple cuts. Maybe sthil can come up with something. I still swear by the winch.
Great clip, I would of liked to hear how you secure the ladder to the log prior the first cut, cheers
Good morning Darren. Thanks for your comment. Check out some of my other vids on CS milling for this... basically it is just screwed on from the end, and a couple of places along the length. Thanks again, bongo.
Good job
I've got a tip: trim the limbs right down to the tree. The engine rides along the tree (the chain pulls it in) and running into limb nubs will really throw off your groove.
Using the ladder as a guide also can help to avoid dipping the leading edge of the bar of the saw as the front mill frame passes the end of the log
Yep, good point Gary.
I started using an Alaska sawmill about three years ago I ended up with two different size ones because the big one (36”) is harder to control on smaller trees one thing I noticed was the coming off the log and going on the log after about the third cut it starts getting wavy on the ends I have been trying to figure how I could mount the ladder for each cut to prevent this. I saw you do it I just wish you would’ve explained a little better on how to secure the ladder for subsequent cuts without ruining the board with holes especially if you’re doing wide trees the ladder will be more in the middle therefore you’ll have screw holes in the boards
Hi Albert, Thanks for your message. Sorry not to have covered that, there's only so many details one can put in these things.
As you say the in and out parts of the cuts are the places where error tends to build - and has the most danger.
I have found that with my ladder, after the first cut, unless things go wrong, a couple of screws in the end grain, is enough... Otherwise it's just the mills weight holding it. The mills skid is running along the log itself, so apart from some rattling, there shouldn't be any sideways forces on the ladder....
Of course if the log isn't level side to side, it's a different story. Then you have the option of biting the bullet and putting in some extra screws, or arranging some kind of other clamping system, or working on the technique required to do it without the ladder...
Many options depending on circumstances.
Good luck, let me know how it goes,
Bongo.
I’d love to do this but I only have a smaller electric chainsaw. Do you think it would work for smaller branches?
Hey there, I don't see why not. Let me know how it goes if you try it :)
Looking for advice i have a 30in round tree in my backyard already head cut down any recommendations on what kind of chainsaw and mill a beginner should get
Hey. Good question. 30" diameter is a reasonable size. In terms of saw and mill, do you envision using the mill in the future on other trees? If so maybe just consider getting it right first time. A ms 661 is a popular size saw for a mill the gets used occasionally. We use an ms 880...
As for mill we made ours. Tons more info and plans written on that - just Google floweringelbow chainsaw mill instructable...
I'm stihl waiting on Tip Number Nine........The rest are making the wait worthwhile!
Hehe. Nice one Jimmy... Have a look here "Tip Nine 07:00". I know it's confusing when 9 comes AFTER No. 17 right?
Any tips to keep the saw from lifting up or twisting as you move forward?
Hi there, thanks for watching. Yes lots of tips for this exact problem are in my chainsaw sharpening video. Check it out and let me know if it helps ;)
Thank you
Great video you make if look so easy .Makes me want to have a go now i have some clear instructions and a good starting point .i enjoy building sheds and tree houses from reclaimed timber as i work in a skip yard,but this is the other extreme using freshly milled timber and a welcome contrast.just subbed and will be watching more.
Another tip , never sharpen your chainsaw on a open oak log. it will leave black spots all over it .
2. After a cut , take the saw out and give it a few revs , it will reoil the bar and get rid of all the extra sawdust in the grove.
3. Check the rakers on the chain , that will make a big difference from dust to small chips of wood. always use a gage for this.\
4. check your bar (if long one) from the tip down wile on the ladder ... if the saw is heavy and not set correctly it might have a bend in the bar.
5. if the log is big , use the ladder closest to the chainsaw , so you control and see the cut , if it lifts of the ladder or not.
And many others ... GOOD LUCK
Thanks!
Great video, good tips, thank you
You are very talented
Thank you so much for sharing,great tips too mate.I'm hopefully going to finish my home made mill tomorrow and cut my first trunk down into slabs.You made it look so easy so I'm feeling confident tonight.Thank you brother
Best of luck friend! I hope it goes well for you. Any questions just ask.
I just liked and followed you on fb.Thank you again and yes I will have questions lol.