Haha. You are everywhere. I am looking at Alaskan mill videos before I try my first cut ever with mine. Your video pops up. I watch your smelting videos with my prospecting channel. And here you are with the forest products.
Thanks for not editing out the missteps - it's very informative to show all the things we'll need to think about when using a chainsaw mill. We all know this is how we work - got an idea, find out it needs to be tweaked as the situation unfolds. End product, you got a decent timber and some usable boards - job done
A little thing a lot of people might not notice about your prep work that is, in my opinion, crucial. I noticed you keep the area around your work clean, with a clear walkway. The key to you being able to go from one end to the other smoothly is that you’re not tripping on stuff or having to walk around a bunch or stuff. To keep consistent light pressure means not having to stop your cut.
I'm giving you just an idea, you could have the end plates wider so you have a bigger space between the square tube, and a screw on the side of each square tube to keep it from sliding. Keep up , good work.
Cool! I started with the 462, now I am running a 500i with a 36" bar. Most of my wood is under 30" so works perfect for me. They are great saws. How long is the bar on your 881?
cool video, I just found your channel and am enjoying your old videos. I see in your profile description that you are in Skagit County, I am in Conway so am local to you. Pretty cool! I play around with a chainsaw mill in my spare time, am pretty focused on it to large live edge slabs. Neat to see you making lumber with yours, it's a labor of love for sure!
Hi Jeremy. I have moved on to a Baker saw mill for most of my lumber. I am getting back into the alaska mill though and will cut some slabs on some up coming videos. Stay tuned!
Thanks for another informative video! I have been looking to get confirmation that it makes sense to not stop to drive in wedges. But no-one seems to comment on that. I also own a Logosol F2+. And with that mill, wedges are never mentioned. That's why I started thinking if I could skip them for the Alaskan Mill as well.
A very clear and informative video..many thanks. Would it be better to have the square tube guide rails further apart to give the saw more stability, or is there a downside to that?
Wish you would have #1 filmed how you held and cut the 1” stuff, and #2, best way to get the width of the boards cut. Do you snap a line and use chain saw etc.. But other than that, very informative.
Since you have the forklift which will allow you to setup wherever you want, you could use a gravity assist to help consistently pull the saw through. Rope attached to your mill, pulley or two to elevate a weight and redirect the pull and Bob's your uncle.
I just discovered the chainsaw log peeler. You replace your clutch with a pulley and attache basically a 6-inch two blade wood plane where the bar would go and connect them with a belt.
Why didn't you just drop the mill 6'' from your original cut? You don't have to rotate the log, but you do need wedges to shim the log so the beam doesn't pinch the bar. So I don't have to rotate the log at all, I use an edging mill. Best if you have two saws so you don't have to keep swapping out the mills.
On the steel bracket I personally like a wider spread for the rails to keep the saw more stable. I do like the steel plates but would make a set for multiple width of logs.
Something I'm wondering. After making the first top and side cut, why not simply drop the chainsaw inside the mill by 6 or 8 inches and do the second cut, resting the mill on the newly flatten surface?
@@SJForestProducts i have my jig set for 6in to clear. that way, i can cut 6x6 posts without adjusting my mill, or re-attaching the jig. only need the jig for the 1st & 3rd cut
Don't add tacks, weld nuts to your guide support plates and use bolts to clamp your tubes. It will be less work and more versatile. Cheers from Australia.
Great idea using rhe lift truck. Interesting that you didn't use wedges and got a great cut. Granberg says to use wedges, but they don't use the rails.
Great video, thank you. I tried milling for the first time this weekend. After a big storm, a buddy had many huge Spruce trees fall. He had pros come and deal with the mess, they saved 10x 9 foot sections and one 11 foot section for us to mill. Most around 20 to 28 inches in diameter. We are using my Husky Rancher with a 24 inch bar. But our cut times are more like 6 to 7 minutes and we use a tank of fuel per 2 or 3 cuts. What are we doing wrong to use so much fuel? I am guesstimating you got 9 cuts on 1.5 tanks of fuel? Is there that much of a difference between Spruce and cedar or are we working poorly? Thank you!
Its hard to tell, but here are a few things that could be the differences. 1 cedar is super soft and my logs have few if any knots, 2 could be sharpness of your chain? 3 maybe differences in saw size/efficiency? I just milled up some maple that was about 8' long and ~24" wide and I was using about 2/3 of a tank per slab so you actually weren't doing too bad. I hoped that helped. I will have some more milling vids coming out soon so I will try to go over a few of the things you mentioned in upcoming vids. Check out another video I have on my channel of some wide cedar slabs I milled up about a year ago. It might have some more info too. Thanks and good luck!
Have you found that the bars are better than just using the initial flat cut as a guide for the subsequent parallel cuts? I'm just getting into milling.
Yes, I really like the bars for the initial cuts to take off the rounded outside part of the log. Once it is flat then you can run the mill directly on the wood. It works great!
I'm not really sure, that is a good question. I would say that as long as the wood is clean then it probably doesn't make much difference as it is just a factor of how much wood each tooth cuts, but the grain direction may have something to do with it too.
It seems that when you set your jig up on the big end, even though the jig is level and square, it could still be on a different plane than the small end. Therefore, your rails would not be level??. Am I missing something?
You made the first cut just fine. A good, flat and straight top cut. THEN you should have left the log alone and adjusted the mill frame to cut the desired thickness using the fresh flat side to ride the jig on. THEN roll the log 90 degrees and carefully attach your end plates and cut the 3rd face. Then cut the 4th face using the 3rd face as a straight plane for your chainsaw guide. 4 setups with the tubing rig is MUCH less inaccurate than only 2 set ups.
If you do that, do you have to stop and put wedges in it? I imagine all the weight is working against you with that thick of a cut, so how do you work around that?
@coltonstevens1 Yes, Use wedges for the 2nd cut . The wedges have no problem holding the weight. I use wedges on all cuts. I made tapered wooden wedges 1/32" thicker than the kerf of the chain cut. In my case , that would be 13/32". No need in this world to use the rail system for the 2nd cut as he did in this video. But you will need to jack up/block up the log if you're gonna make a full thickness 2nd cut to keep your saw from hitting whatever it's resting on. In my case , sawhorses (heavy duty). The way he did his 2nd cut in the video ,using rails, does not ensure a parallel plane between 1st and 2nd cut. Tip : Make 1st cut. Roll the log 90 degrees. Brace the log to prevent movement. Place a speed square (wide lip edge) on your 1st cut surface at the end of the log. Rest your end plate on top of the other edge of your speed square. Fasten plate to end of log. That's assuming that your end plates are square and notches in end plates are cut squarely. Rails must also be straight. Now you have 2 sides flat and square at a 90 degree angle. The rest is whatever you desire, and what the diameter of the log can provide.
Definitely better to use wedges, to stop the dish in the middle of the boards you need some mid length supports on the square tubing. For your end plates it's better to have 2 independent lengths of bar instead of one plate.
The rails are just 2x2 steel tube. Bought them at the steel store. Work great, but make sure your span is not so far they bend under the weight of the saw. If that happens you get boards that are thick in the middle and thin on the edges.
There's a couple videos out on how to make a cross cut into a ripping chain. You might find those to be of use. You have 2 teeth that are for clean out, that are half the width of normal cutters with 10° grind. The only advantage is smoother finish, but you will cut slower. If you're planning on plaining your boards then don't bother with the double the price ripping chain. Cross cut chain is significantly faster.
I plan to retire in the Philippines. Proper lumber is not found. All of it is cut by eye with a chainsaw. Storms and hurricanes knock over loads of wood to be bought on the cheap. I’m thinking that this would be a nice way to slice them up on site, leaving waist for the locals and cooking fires.
I'm thinking that the saddles for the guide rails could be made of the OSB, too and a few small wedges made from shingles would secure the rails to keep them from sliding. Your demonstration added a great dimension to my preparing my mill for logs I have. Thanks
@@SJForestProducts Many a woodworker has suffered maladies from the toxic effects of sawdust. Protect your lungs, too. From an old cabinet/furniture maker here.
Haha. You are everywhere. I am looking at Alaskan mill videos before I try my first cut ever with mine. Your video pops up. I watch your smelting videos with my prospecting channel. And here you are with the forest products.
Thanks for not editing out the missteps - it's very informative to show all the things we'll need to think about when using a chainsaw mill. We all know this is how we work - got an idea, find out it needs to be tweaked as the situation unfolds. End product, you got a decent timber and some usable boards - job done
This is one of the best portable Chainsaw Mill How-To Set-Up videos I have ever seen
Thank you!
@@SJForestProducts Yep, that was very sweet. Answered several of my questions. Thank you.
A little thing a lot of people might not notice about your prep work that is, in my opinion, crucial. I noticed you keep the area around your work clean, with a clear walkway. The key to you being able to go from one end to the other smoothly is that you’re not tripping on stuff or having to walk around a bunch or stuff. To keep consistent light pressure means not having to stop your cut.
Please make another video of how you set up for the thinner planks. I have absolutely no idea and was dissappointed. The first part was great.
I was hoping to see the same thing. I have all the equipment and know I'm trying to get the knowledge before I start cutting.
Great video, nice to see some small scale production using limited equipment. Nice final product!
Thanks Scirate! Glad you enjoyed the video. Stay tuned for more coming soon!
this is exactly what i was looking for all day yesterday. lol first video that came up this morning. ty sir
I'm giving you just an idea, you could have the end plates wider so you have a bigger space between the square tube, and a screw on the side of each square tube to keep it from sliding.
Keep up , good work.
That is a good idea. I will try it!
Excellent learning video. Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Excellent Video
Thank You For This Friend
very nice! i started milling with a 462 and since have upgraded to the 881 for a larger capacity
the alaskan winch from granberg really helps not only with cut quality but also helps feed the mill consistently
Cool! I started with the 462, now I am running a 500i with a 36" bar. Most of my wood is under 30" so works perfect for me. They are great saws. How long is the bar on your 881?
@@SJForestProducts i ran a 36" on the 462 and my 881 came with a 36" which im using now but i have a 64" bar and 72" mill on order from Granberg
You make it look easy. Tahnks
Cool video! Very well thought out jig and template!!
Thanks! Thanks for watching
cool video, I just found your channel and am enjoying your old videos. I see in your profile description that you are in Skagit County, I am in Conway so am local to you. Pretty cool! I play around with a chainsaw mill in my spare time, am pretty focused on it to large live edge slabs. Neat to see you making lumber with yours, it's a labor of love for sure!
Hi Jeremy. I have moved on to a Baker saw mill for most of my lumber. I am getting back into the alaska mill though and will cut some slabs on some up coming videos. Stay tuned!
Awesome stuff, Jason.
Thanks Mark!
nice work. next step timber framing
Like the ways how you sets your 2uper bars and thus four steel plate s before the cuts.
Thanks for another informative video! I have been looking to get confirmation that it makes sense to not stop to drive in wedges. But no-one seems to comment on that. I also own a Logosol F2+. And with that mill, wedges are never mentioned. That's why I started thinking if I could skip them for the Alaskan Mill as well.
nice, thanks.
A very clear and informative video..many thanks. Would it be better to have the square tube guide rails further apart to give the saw more stability, or is there a downside to that?
Awesome 👏🏻
Wish you would have #1 filmed how you held and cut the 1” stuff, and #2, best way to get the width of the boards cut. Do you snap a line and use chain saw etc.. But other than that, very informative.
Since you have the forklift which will allow you to setup wherever you want, you could use a gravity assist to help consistently pull the saw through. Rope attached to your mill, pulley or two to elevate a weight and redirect the pull and Bob's your uncle.
Great idea! Use gravity to your advantage! Thanks
I just discovered the chainsaw log peeler. You replace your clutch with a pulley and attache basically a 6-inch two blade wood plane where the bar would go and connect them with a belt.
Very clear and consistant, and iinformative, simple and pleasant to watch. Thumbs up and thank you very muc h Jason.
Why didn't you just drop the mill 6'' from your original cut? You don't have to rotate the log, but you do need wedges to shim the log so the beam doesn't pinch the bar. So I don't have to rotate the log at all, I use an edging mill. Best if you have two saws so you don't have to keep swapping out the mills.
On the steel bracket I personally like a wider spread for the rails to keep the saw more stable. I do like the steel plates but would make a set for multiple width of logs.
Hope this isn't further down, but what keeps the rails from sliding in the slots during sawing?
Question answered on the nubs added @ 21:30
Something I'm wondering. After making the first top and side cut, why not simply drop the chainsaw inside the mill by 6 or 8 inches and do the second cut, resting the mill on the newly flatten surface?
I think its easier to keep everything set and just cut off slabs. Thanks for the idea!
@@SJForestProducts i have my jig set for 6in to clear. that way, i can cut 6x6 posts without adjusting my mill, or re-attaching the jig. only need the jig for the 1st & 3rd cut
And maintains a much more likely parallel cut…
Ur are on point, and the slabs will maintain their width nicely, and u will be able to run through at least 4 logs faster and more accurately.
Works for hardwood?
Don't add tacks, weld nuts to your guide support plates and use bolts to clamp your tubes. It will be less work and more versatile.
Cheers from Australia.
That is a great idea! Thanks for the suggestion. I will be using your idea, keep an eye out for it in future videos!
Make the end guide plates or of plastic. Use an old cutting board that you can get for one or two dollars at a charity resale or yard sale
That is a GREAT idea! Thanks!
Where did you get those metal guides tho????
What you gona use these for, and considering center is inside
Hi, do you use a rip chain or cross cut chain?
Ripping chain
Great video. How is your hearing?
Huh?! What?! Can't hear you! Haha, just kidding. I always wear ear plugs :) Thanks for watching and commenting!
Exelente
Roll the log back over and use your fresh cut as your support for the Alaska saw mill.
Thought you used a 6x6 template but later you said your guide brackets were 7.125 x 7.125?
Great idea using rhe lift truck. Interesting that you didn't use wedges and got a great cut. Granberg says to use wedges, but they don't use the rails.
Great video, thank you. I tried milling for the first time this weekend. After a big storm, a buddy had many huge Spruce trees fall. He had pros come and deal with the mess, they saved 10x 9 foot sections and one 11 foot section for us to mill. Most around 20 to 28 inches in diameter. We are using my Husky Rancher with a 24 inch bar. But our cut times are more like 6 to 7 minutes and we use a tank of fuel per 2 or 3 cuts. What are we doing wrong to use so much fuel? I am guesstimating you got 9 cuts on 1.5 tanks of fuel? Is there that much of a difference between Spruce and cedar or are we working poorly? Thank you!
Its hard to tell, but here are a few things that could be the differences. 1 cedar is super soft and my logs have few if any knots, 2 could be sharpness of your chain? 3 maybe differences in saw size/efficiency? I just milled up some maple that was about 8' long and ~24" wide and I was using about 2/3 of a tank per slab so you actually weren't doing too bad. I hoped that helped. I will have some more milling vids coming out soon so I will try to go over a few of the things you mentioned in upcoming vids. Check out another video I have on my channel of some wide cedar slabs I milled up about a year ago. It might have some more info too. Thanks and good luck!
@@SJForestProducts Thank you for the quick reply. We head back next weekend to mill a few more logs, I will check the rest of the videos before then.
Ripping chain, sharp?
Question: did you use a ripping chain or a crosscut chain?
nice
Have you found that the bars are better than just using the initial flat cut as a guide for the subsequent parallel cuts? I'm just getting into milling.
Yes, I really like the bars for the initial cuts to take off the rounded outside part of the log. Once it is flat then you can run the mill directly on the wood. It works great!
Are your jigs on the big or small end of the log, top or bottom? Thank you for the video
How do I set the granberg Alaskan chainsaw mill to cut different thicknesses?
Does rip cutting dull the chain more quickly than cross cutting?
I'm not really sure, that is a good question. I would say that as long as the wood is clean then it probably doesn't make much difference as it is just a factor of how much wood each tooth cuts, but the grain direction may have something to do with it too.
Jason where did you buy your do it yourself mill?
It seems that when you set your jig up on the big end, even though the jig is level and square, it could still be on a different plane than the small end. Therefore, your rails would not be level??. Am I missing something?
You made the first cut just fine. A good, flat and straight top cut.
THEN you should have left the log alone and adjusted the mill frame to cut the desired thickness using the fresh flat side to ride the jig on.
THEN roll the log 90 degrees and carefully attach your end plates and cut the 3rd face.
Then cut the 4th face using the 3rd face as a straight plane for your chainsaw guide.
4 setups with the tubing rig is MUCH less inaccurate than only 2 set ups.
If you do that, do you have to stop and put wedges in it? I imagine all the weight is working against you with that thick of a cut, so how do you work around that?
@coltonstevens1
Yes,
Use wedges for the 2nd cut . The wedges have no problem holding the weight.
I use wedges on all cuts. I made tapered wooden wedges 1/32" thicker than the kerf of the chain cut.
In my case , that would be 13/32".
No need in this world to use the rail system for the 2nd cut as he did in this video.
But you will need to jack up/block up the log if you're gonna make a full thickness 2nd cut to keep your saw from hitting whatever it's resting on.
In my case , sawhorses (heavy duty).
The way he did his 2nd cut in the video ,using rails, does not ensure a parallel plane between 1st and 2nd cut.
Tip :
Make 1st cut.
Roll the log 90 degrees.
Brace the log to prevent movement.
Place a speed square (wide lip edge) on your 1st cut surface at the end of the log.
Rest your end plate on top of the other edge of your speed square.
Fasten plate to end of log.
That's assuming that your end plates are square and notches in end plates are cut squarely.
Rails must also be straight.
Now you have 2 sides flat and square at a 90 degree angle.
The rest is whatever you desire, and what the diameter of the log can provide.
Hi! The mill works for hardwood, like maple, walnut etc..
Yep it works great for hardwood. I have cut maple, birch, and alder with it. Its a great way to make slabs
Thanks bro!
An other tip please, the time to dry, and works the wood?
It depends on the wood, how thick it is, moisture content, Etc. A good rule is 10% to 15% moisture and this could take 3 months to 12 months of drying
How big are your plates that you put on the end of your logs before you start milling?
They are steel plates about 1/4" thick I think I cut them like 12" wide by 8" high or so. Thanks for watching and commenting
A garden hose works well to de-dirt a log.
Thanks for the tip!
When the bars slide as you cut, I wonder if good old fashion duct tape could keep it from sliding?
Haha, good idea. Cheap and easy! That is what I like to hear. I might give that a try! Thanks for the suggestion!
Definitely better to use wedges, to stop the dish in the middle of the boards you need some mid length supports on the square tubing. For your end plates it's better to have 2 independent lengths of bar instead of one plate.
Well, that’s a good cheating idea. Never thought of that one and I’ve been making lumber for almost 30 years. lol❤
where did you get your rails ?
The rails are just 2x2 steel tube. Bought them at the steel store. Work great, but make sure your span is not so far they bend under the weight of the saw. If that happens you get boards that are thick in the middle and thin on the edges.
You could also use this set up if you wanted to buy something: Chainsaw Mill Brackets: amzn.to/3q4808V
What is the difference between a ripping chain and a cross cut?
The angle on the tooth is different. For a cross cut it is about 25 deg and a ripping chain is about 8-10 degrees
There's a couple videos out on how to make a cross cut into a ripping chain. You might find those to be of use. You have 2 teeth that are for clean out, that are half the width of normal cutters with 10° grind. The only advantage is smoother finish, but you will cut slower. If you're planning on plaining your boards then don't bother with the double the price ripping chain. Cross cut chain is significantly faster.
Use your top cut and set the saw for 6".
What size bar?
28" on a 462
I plan to retire in the Philippines. Proper lumber is not found. All of it is cut by eye with a chainsaw. Storms and hurricanes knock over loads of wood to be bought on the cheap. I’m thinking that this would be a nice way to slice them up on site, leaving waist for the locals and cooking fires.
Sounds like fun. I bet they have some interesting wood over there. Thanks
I'm thinking that the saddles for the guide rails could be made of the OSB, too and a few small wedges made from shingles would secure the rails to keep them from sliding. Your demonstration added a great dimension to my preparing my mill for logs I have. Thanks
Great idea! Thanks for commenting and watching!
My dad had an old saying that was cut twice and then begin to measure needless to say he wasn't a very good Carpenter
Haha! Well we all have our own style I guess
Pretty grain for your cedar
How to not make a 6x6 post
Tips and tricks?
Why not leave the dirty side down then dirt wont fall on the cleaner bark.
That's a great idea. I will give it a try next time. Thanks for watching!
Maybe u should use skip chain maybe even full skip just my experience good luck 🍀 to u
Thanks for the tip
Actually, ripping chains are usually semi-chisel at 10 degrees, but any chain can be used. Any semi-chisel is best.
🍻👍
i wire brush the dirt off
id remove the Dawgs. ...
Good video up until the cutting the waste slabs to one inch. How did you hold them still? You should have explained it a little please.
Thanks for the tip. Next video I will have more details
Power wash the log!
Where is your safety equipment when using the chainsaw?
Thanks for your concern. I have chaps, gloves, safety glasses, and ear plugs. What am I missing?
@@SJForestProducts Many a woodworker has suffered maladies from the toxic effects of sawdust. Protect your lungs, too. From an old cabinet/furniture maker here.
Where is your safety equipment when using the chainsaw
Thanks for watching!
6×6 beam with a huge heart crack....
Thanks for watching
It helps no one when you speed up these sawmill videos. And everyone of you do it. That only tells me that the product and process aren't worth it.
Not on you when using the chainsaw mill
Thanks for watching!
I quit watching after you aborted bark peeling.
haha, well, thanks for watching what you did! Check out my other videos for more!