Tony Castillo, my 12 & 14 year old are working beside me on a regular basis. Somebody’s got to teach them, and it’s my job to do that. (In my opinion) Better advice would be don’t try it alone until your absolutely confident in your skills.
@PracticalTech why? He is using sound code. And he prefeces it with that he ia not licensed, and to double check with local codes. I wired up some switches in my house and they work just fine...when I kick them ;)
As an electrician myself I say good job Cody. Good instruction and camera angles. A few notes to consider for everybody. There is no nuetral(white). There is a green ground in its place that goes on the bar in the panel where the other grounds are going. Sometimes this is the same bar as the white neutrals and sometimes it’s a separate ground only bar. MC(metal clad cable) is a preassembled cable, meaning it has wires pre installed. So you actually had 1/2” flexible metal conduit. To be code it needs to be fastened with a strap to the wall within 12” of each termination into a box or panel, and at intervals within 4.5’ between these terminations. In that conduit you could use #8 thhn wire but, in nmb cable use #6. Up sizing wire is not a bad idea though on the welder. Otherwise spot on. Safety thoughts I highly recommend to viewers. Have good dependable battery lighting going first. Then turn off the main breaker with the panel cover still on. Wear gloves, preferably rubberized. Now carefully remove the cover. You can hold the cover by the top of the open door as you remove the last screw. I like a cordless drill for all the screw activities for this entire task. If a screw drops to the floor just forget about it until the cover is safely off. When install is complete, resecure the cover and all covers over any exposed wire before turning on the breakers. Even stand to the side of the panel when resetting the breakers if desired. Final note is to remember that even with the main breaker off the wire feeding the main still is energized I don’t nick it or touch the exposed terminals of that breaker. This is not “difficult” but please be safe and take your time.
Good notes from RY. Also, make sure you DO NOT use aluminum wire, unless absolutely necessary. The cost savings isn't worth the risk of using it. For main feeders, it will work fine, provided you use the proper torque on the screws in the panel and some de-ox compound. You actually have to check aluminum wires and re-torque them periodically, especially if they get warm. But for a supplemental circuit, copper is the safest wire. Copper rust is conductive. When copper corrodes, it still works just fine and copper also does not expand dramatically when it gets warm. Aluminum expands a lot more than copper, meaning it will get loose over time, as it goes through heat cycles during use of 50 amp devices, heaters, welders, motors, etc. And the final thing, and WORST thing ever, is that aluminum corrodes and turns into "aluminum oxide" which is sand paper. The aluminum wires turn into sand paper on the surface, when they corrode. Obviously sand paper is not a good conductor of electricity, it's more like glass than metal. Aluminum oxide only flows electric current in one direction, so it won't allow AC power to flow back and forth. Aluminum oxide could work fine for some DC applications, even with severe corrosion - but NEVER with AC. You can test this yourself. Take 2 aluminum plates, and hook them 120 volts (or 220 volts) and then mix up some distilled water with a scoop of Borax in it. Now stick the plates in the Borax distilled water mix, and then plug the plates straight into the wall outlet, FULL VOLTAGE. There will be ZERO CONDUCTIVITY, and ZERO current across the plates. The Borax accelerates the corrosion on the aluminum, forming an aluminum oxide layer, which blocks AC power.
Thank you Ry. I'm a bit confused though when you say there is no white, it is green. Are you just saying that Cody should have purchased a green instead of white?
@@CrypidLore plumbers hourly generally is higher. Total package IBEW Wiremen generally is higher. There is also generally more man hours in electrical work on most projects than plumbing. Being plumbing and pipe fitting are separate trades. Side jobs are plentiful in both trades.
@@danichicago9140 Much of that depends upon which route a plumber or electrician goes. If an electrician goes industrial route there is potential to make a lot more. Especially if you get into installs and maintenance of automation equipment. Or switchboard repair and maintenance. Same with plumbers if they go industrial and automation more money.
My 2c For 50A outlets, there doesn't seem to be much commonly available for the twist lock gear, but for 30A and below, the 3-pin dryer-type plug is a step backward - better off with 4-pin (2 hots, neutral, ground) NEMA twist lock gear. That way, you can plug in (and quickly! - removing the dryer type plugs is hard) any equipment you like into it that runs 120, 240, 240 + neutral, etc. Nag: Also as many others have pointed out, your need at minimum to hook up what is functioning as your ground wire to the correct ground bus, and either tape it with green tape on either end to indicate that it it's purpose, or replace the line with green sheathed wire.
Awesome video, I’m an electrician, and maybe would have done things a little different, but I admit, I have a LOT of temporary thing around my place. I’ve even given them a name, Temporary Permanent. Again thanks for all the great content. PS: when I shut power off to a panel, I ALWAYS double check and test there is no power to it before I start shoving my hand in there. Aloha!
@@mcmahon1130 I was trying to be nice and not give off negative vibes, because the world today is already full of it. Must be a sad existence just looking for things to troll. Sending my Aloha your way and hope you have a great holiday season! Sincerely, A Licensed General & Electrical Contractor
@@EeZ3-808 "Must be a sad existence looking for things to troll." I wouldn't know. Trying to make sure people don't get seriously hurt or killed isn't trolling. Try again.
I'm not an electrician but I work with high voltage at work and I double check everything after I secure power. I was glad to see someone else say the same. If we reach into a box at work without insulated gloves we will get hammered. even if we secured the power. at home I use more caution, but yeah, there was a lot of good info in this vid. cheers!!
There is no neutral ( white) in the 240 v circuit ... the second leg of 120 is the return path Should have pulled a green ground wire through the flex and attach it to the ground bus bar
@@bigjimbo560 the white is just added security the neutral bar is a ground also it's attached to the box which is grounded. Both have white and green nowadays if not a green is added for a extra ground
Thanks Cody. Wired up my shop welder plug years ago, but I do indeed find being able to use my welder in my shop and wheel it anywhere in the building entertaining.
I did the same thing, I put an outlet right inside my garage and I also made a 40 foot extension cord because my garage was too full to really weld in without pulling stuff out so I could get to the other side of the garage or out in the driveway or under my carport with it. Pretty much exactly The set up you made and I absolutely loved it. When I moved I brought the extension with me and still have it, and I chose the same plug like you did, it’s just much simpler than trying to deal with all the ridiculous plug options. Lol I just asked an electrician what gauge wire I would need and they had it at my local building supply store, it was a little expensive but worth every penny in the end.
Your panel appears to have separate ground and neutral bars, as it should being a sub-panel. If it’s a straight 240v welder your ground wire is the wrong color and connected to the wrong place in the panel. If it’s a 120/240v welder you are missing a ground wire. Either way, it’s a fail.
Agreed! That’s a sub panel and should not be bonded. On a 240V circuit for your welder, you shouldn’t have a neutral. The two 120V legs or phases carry the AC current back to the source. That is what the neutral wire does on a 120V circuit because it has to have a return path and it only has one hot leg, so it needs a neutral. EXTREME SAFETY TIP: You are using what is intended to be and equipment bonding conductor connected to your neutral buss. The white wire in your circuit should be connected to the ground buss where your bare copper wires are terminated and by code should be green. The equipment bonding conductor need not be any larger than the bare copper wire connected to your grounding electrode driven in the earth at the first service disconnect where the service enters the building at that first service disconnect. Probably 6AWG OR 8AWG. I couldn’t see, but the green bonding screw should be removed in the sub panel if it isn’t. A system should have only one grounding electrode driven into the earth at only one point. The equipment bonding conductor is the last lone of defense to protect you at the equipment. It rarely will shut the circuit off in the case of a fault. The only way to stop the current is to shut it off at the source which will occur at the circuit breaker for the welder in an over current or short circuit condition. You are basically bonding your sub panel when the welder is plugged in. Any fault current will be sent over your entire neutral side of your system rather than back to the main service disconnect where the neutral and grounding electrodes are bonded in that panel. I’m not an electrician but studied the NEC when I added a 100 Amp sub in my garage and rewired my house because I didn’t like the multi-wire branch circuit design. I brought it up to the 2017 NEC code, had it inspected.
Never ceases to amaze me that so many of the DIY crowd thinks that doing electrical work is a hobby. There is MUCH more to the deal than black to black and white to white. They also think that bonding (or not) is basically arbitrary.
@@andrewbieger5004 Agreed! It’s not until they lose a neutral and the ground wire tries to supply an outbuilding with current and the whole thing burns down. THEN they’ll ask for advice on the importance of bonding.
@@andrewbieger5004 The DIY crowd can STILL wire the run correctly without having to hire the professional for jobs like this. Just because you are not a professional, doesn't mean that you have to hire one every time. Maybe that is also what you meant, but your condescending wording implies otherwise.
Sorry Wranglerstar but electrical inspection=fail. You connected the EGC (ground terminal) of the receptacle to the neutral in the panel. You should have used a green conductor instead of a white one and connected it the EGC bus on the left side of the panel. BTW that's FMC (flexible metallic conduit) not MC cable.
@@brantcarpenter33 That's incorrect. There is no connection between the EGC (ground) bar on the left and the neutral bar on the right. This is a sub-panel so the EGC bus and the neutral bus are isolated from each other. The EGC bus is bonded to the enclosure by the strap in the center of the bus.
Also at 8:50, I see other wires connected with wire nuts at the top of the box. My understanding is there are no connections or other devices allowed in the panel other than to breakers or the neutral and ground bus bars - the whole thing is a walking code violation. Clearly the only "permit" he pulls is the one where he's permitting people on youtube to imagine he's qualified and knows what he's doing, which he clearly isn't. I installed a 50A circuit for a welder a couple of years ago, but at least I did it properly!
If the welder has a 4 wire hookup id upgrade the recep and cord. Grounding is one of the most important things. Also keeping ground and neutrals separate in subpanels. Ya don't want current running through your ground wire that can go to equipment and possibly shock and harm yourself. Electricity will take any and all paths back to its source. Hope that was helpful! I love your videos!!
The image is really excellent. I like that even though I’ve wired tons of these types of power supplies, I still enjoyed watching you do it. Your so right twist locks were invented in a hot and dark place.
Nice vid. But raised some questions for me. I am no pro electrician but I believe that normal 240V has 2 live conductors and a ground. No neutral. You do seem to mix up neutral and ground a bit throughout. Not the same thing. The neutral is intended for 120V split phase. Your 3rd wire should be green and connected directly to the ground bar, not to the neutral bar, AFAIK. Yes, the 120 neutral and ground are ultimately connected together someplace, maybe in your panel, but functionally they play a different role at the user level. Especially safety wise in case of a problem. The color coding is not just a trivial annoying convention, it may save you and other people from trouble at some point. It's not like your system will explode the first time you use it, not by a long shot, but personally, I would try to build it fully correctly, to be safer down the line. And this is actually interesting stuff to figure out.
If this gets inspected by a legitimate inspector it will fail. You cannot use a white wire as a ground wire. It must be green or bare copper. You are doing a great job but if people are watching you to learn they need to be taught the proper way. No biggy, just correct it and tell people about the mistake.
@@socmonki Most non electricians don't understand the difference between neutral and ground and having separate buss after the first point of distribution or about when to put that extra green screw that came with the box into the buss!!
Uploaded 2 minutes ago? Just intime for me to watch while i wash up 😁 nothing beats a wranglerstar vlog while your doing the boring chores. Stay safe and god bless
Nice video, but just a few things about it I’ll clue you in on. That isn’t MC Cable, it’s actually flexible metallic conduit, we often refer to as greenfield at least down where I’m at. MC is similar to FMC but has wire already in it and most of the time smaller in diameter. Another thing is that while the two hot wire color are good, the third where you added the white is actually a ground not a neutral since it’s a 240 volt only circuit not a 120/240 volt circuit for instance like and range or stove is a 120/240 volt circuit since the burners use 240 volts while the electronic components like the digital clock and timers run on 120 volts. Which is why newer construction and wiring started using 4 wire receptacles and plugs versus the older 3 wire version where they used the ground as a neutral, but that’s another story. And last thing is the size wire you use depends on the type wire of cable you use, most residential areas use romex so you would be right in the 50 amp breaker sizing to use a number 6 awg wire, but since you did happen to run a conduit and use THHN single conductors like you did you can very well use a number 8 awg wire if you so chose to given that it’s not a great distance to the receptacle from the panel. I mentioned this because the wire type you used I’m referring to the NEC table 310.15(B)(16) for ampacity rating of wire or cables for different insulation types in three different temperature ratings measured in degrees Celsius, 60, 75, and 90. There are only two types that most residential residents deal with that romex which is the type that you see most of that comes in cable for etc. 14/2, 12/3 and so forth. And the other type is THHN which is dual rated THHN/THWN these are bought in the big box stores and both have a insulation rating of 90 degree Celsius, but the romex ampacity is while rated for 90 is limited to the 60 degree Celsius column which means a smaller current for a given wire size. But THHN/THWN Cable can use the 75 or 60 degree column depending on the size Wire and application of use. And the for the most part you are stuck with using the 60 degree column for wire sizes 10 awg and smaller except certain things like motors, and central air conditioners in a residential setting according to uf I’m not mistaken article 240 in the NEC. But for the most part 14 awg for 15 amps, 12 awg for 20 amps, and 10 awg for 30 amps most always. But that’s just a lil info thrown your way. If you are using conduit and using THHN you can use 8 awg for 50 amps but if using regular black romex without conduit number 6 awg is needed. But bigger wire can be used, that’s just if you wanted to save a few pennies. I didn’t mean to get too technical with it. Keep doing videos, and have a great day.
I love thoughtful posts like this, usually learning more in the comments section than in the actual video. It is my understanding that if you're going to use the higher temp rating, everything in the circuit needs to be rated to the higher temp, including the breaker. So, even if the wire is OK at 90, if the breaker is only rated to 60, you're hooped, you need to use the 60 column for wire size. I live in Canada so we use a different code. All the breakers I can buy are only rated to 60, and even inquiry with the breaker manufacturer ends up with 60. So we are stuck, AWG 6 if the run isn't too long.
@@throoppete4021 Depending on the city and province you live in, you may get very helpful advice from your local building inspectors. I usually draw out a plan, think it through very carefully, and then go to the inspection dept with a list of questions before I even start. When they realize they are dealing with somebody who put effort in and honestly wants to do it correctly, they will help you and the final inspection is a breeze. I would not even consider trying to do this without an inspection, it is illegal and you will be liable for dangerous mistakes, even years later. It takes hundreds of hours of study to get things right, so approach the task with humility. When adding something like a welder you need to consider whether your feeder wires can tolerate the increase in demand, and the duty cycle, which is a tricky question if you have a transformer style welder and a house with older or overloaded wiring already. PS Knight published a series of booklets (electrical code simplified) that distill down the CEC to a readable format, and a recent edition of his book would be a good place to start.
Funny the circumstances that we eat our words. Cody criticizes the previous electricians workmanship installing the panel and the "looks" of things and instals the shodiest looking work of the whole panel. I know he's gonna "replace" it. Just funny irony.
I’ve always recommended friends to instal an L14-30 twist lock in their garages. It’s the twist lock equivalent to a dryer plug, and it’s far far the most useful plug out there. It’s the same 4pin twist lock that is on 95% of small generators. Becuase it has 2 legs and a neutral, you can plug just about anything into it, so long as it draws less than 30 amps of course
I like the twist lock because there is less chance someone will accidentally pull it out of the wall while im working. Also those drier receptacles are hard as all hell to pull out, and I have to stop my self from allowing my fingers to wrap around it to gain a better purchase on it while pulling it out. Im always worried about getting shocked that way.
I am not an electrician so take my comments with a grain of salt. #1, for the safety of your viewers, please begin videos about working with high voltage in sub panels with these safety protocols...shut off power at the main panel not just at the sub panel, then, test for voltage with a voltmeter before sticking your hands in that sub panel with the cover off. #2, in addition to the 50 amp (NEMA 6-50) outlet you have installed, I suggest that you mount another 240 outlet fused at 30 amps (NEMA 6-30) for the 10 gauge extension cord you will be running as you never know when an unsuspecting person might someday plug a 40 or 50 amp device thru that 10 gauge wire which is rated 30 amps max.
It appears you have a 4 wire sub panel in your garage. It all looks good except you should have ran that "ground wire" over to the ground bar, not the neutral bar.
See that's where the mistake just gets bigger. It seemed logical to attach the white wire where other white wires were. If the proper color had been used he probably would have terminated it at the right place. On the terminal that is bonded to the panel, not the neutral buss that is floating. Moral of the story is the outlet will not be properly grounded. At minimum phase the white wire with green tape on both ends and relocate the wire in the panel to the ground buss. 5 minute fix.
@@TheRealTonyCastillo In all honesty it should be fine unless he needs a ground to protect him one day like a damaged wire somewhere or kneeling in water or on damp concrete. The welder does not "need" the ground to work properly, it's just that he has no leakage protection AND the neutral is now connected to the frame of the welder and can induce current onto it causing a shock hazard. Other than getting electrocuted, no big deal! A bigger issue is that people come here to learn from him because he is an awesome guy, but then they learn bad habits and get hurt. Everybody wants to be an electrician. They learn just enough to get a false sense of security and be dangerous.
I know you get a lot of know-it-alls when you do your own work. However, as an electrical contractor/master electrician I have one tip for you. Going forward, do not rely on the metallic conduit as a ground path. I have seen more problems (electrocutions) in shop settings because of not having a ground wire ran with the circuits. If your metallic conduit is done perfectly, you should be fine on 20 and 30 amp circuits...but conduit (especially flexible conduit) has a maximum overcurrent device rating when relying on it for an adequate ground path. Check the National Electrical Code. As a rule, we always run a green ground in all raceways...because we never know if the mechanical conduit connections in a workshop will always be 100% since they are exposed. We like to have the ground conductor as the main path in case the conduit connections are ever damaged. Shops and garages especially. Also, you can go with #8 for 50 amp as long as it is not NM cable (Romex). #8 THHN or THWN is rated at 55 amps unless you have some local code ammendment that says otherwise. I will say that you do a really good job though with what I have seen...and yes, Twist-Lok receptacles are a headache for us too. Nothing wrong with ditching them if you can.
Just a few suggestions or possibly helpful pieces of information if you will. If you notice the screw in the plug you landed the neutral on is green and is so because it’s intended for a ground wire and not a neutral. Most anything that requires 240v does not require a neutral, minus some oddball motor loads. I also took notice in the fact that none of the other branch circuits coming out of your panel (breaker box) have a grounding conductor in their conduit. Non of which meets NEC requirements. It is your property so I won’t presume to tell you what/how to do your things, would just like to point out the aforementioned details. Love your videos though! Keep up the good work!
it looks like all the grounds are twisted together coming through the elbow at the bottom of the panel. The white neutral wire becomes a ground. He should add green tape to the wire indicating that it is now a ground not a neutral wire and move it to the ground bar
Yeah he put the white wire which should actually be a ground (colour of wire is irrelevant) but it should have gone to the ground bar not the neutral bar. 230v Welders and air compressors don’t need a neutral white wire they just need the 2 hot and ground wire.
And it shouldn't be on the neutral bus. If that panel is fed from the main panel the neutral and ground are bonded there, and that white should be on the ground bus with green tape to signify it is a ground, not a neutral. This is why people who aren't electricians shouldn't be doing electrical work.
@@socmonki or people who don't know what they're doing,I'm not an electrician yet but I do all my own work as long as I am certain I know what I'm doing
@@xxMacDaddy84xx code or not, it's still supposed to be a ground and either bare or green. I doubt an inspector would fail a #6 green, but he will fail the white on neutral bus.
That gave me a good chuckle when you said, "...see, you're not wasting time on TH-cam at all..." I do feel guilty sometimes, but I'm guessing I'm not the only one.
Jack of all trades, master of... not electricity. 240v welder should have a green ground wire going to the left side ground busbar in your sub-panel, not the white "neutral" connected where it is -that ties back to your main panels neutral.
Our cost doubles when we come fix what a homeowner messed up. LOL oh and the 3/4 greenfield we just bend until it breaks then cut and trim with side cutters. Much quicker than finding the saw. And you have to install a green ground in flex. It cannot be used as a ground.
I'm an electrician. 1500 for a 50a just means the guy didn't want to do it or there's much more to the story than we know. 200 sounds more reasonable for a rec right out the panel.
FYI that’s metal flex (aluminum or steel) not M/C cable. M/C is essentially mental flex with relevant wire size and number of wires. Yes white is a neutral but you used it for a ground so it should be green. Sometimes a neutral is required, neutral being always white. Ground is always green. Just a couple pointers, nothing against the video!
@@mcmahon1130 On a 277v circuit, grey identifies the neutral conductor. Even fancier, is having all the neutrals with matching phase colors as stripes. Of course, this is best practice, but in the electrical service speciality, we'll often use what's on the truck instead of running back n forth getting supplies.
I just converted two hots and a neutral to two hots and a ground. I was happy to see the ground wire capped off in the box when I opened it up. I checked to make sure it was actually grounded. All done for $15 in the wall and bought a $50 25’ 50A extension cord.
Video quality Looks great and the audio sounds good as well. When you can get to it, now that YT streams 4K to Apple TV, I’d love to watch your family in the full glory of my 65” curved tv. Thanks for the lesson as always friend!
It would be a good idea to bond your flex to the ground bus in the panel. I believe the white wire should be green and terminated on the ground bus instead of the neutral bus. Good work and it’s good to see people try to figure these things out themselves. Respect
I really like the US system when it comes to solid steel conduits, flexible steel conduits, metal gland nuts and all the associated screw on accessories. For shop floor and industrial applications looks like the wiring will hold up to wear and tear. In Israel we typically use regular PVC cables and plastic gland nuts and junction boxes. There always cracked, broken, get run over and squished by wheels. Even in Europe I haven't seen wiring protected as well as the US system.
Brother Cody, it's always a pleasure watching your beautiful videos. Never discount your awesome skills, ok... Stay Safe, Bee Well, keep the cutlery sharp. Shalom
Where to start on the NEC disaster you filmed... 1. That's not 'MC Cable', it's Flexible Metallic Conduit or FMC. 2. A 3-prong outlet is a 240V outlet, not a 120/240V, so the middle prong is a ground, not neutral. Note the brass rivet connecting the terminal to the enclosure. Hope you don't have a phase imbalance, otherwise you might want to avoid touching that conduit. 2a. Because you put a white wire on the receptacle's ground terminal, you connected the other end to the wrong terminal in the panel. 2b. It looks like you don't have a neutral bonding jumper in the panel, assuming this is a sub-panel, so good luck on that ground path. 3. Using 10/3 rubber cord with 50A devices on it exceeds the rating of the cable. 4. You didn't put any conduit straps on your excessively long FMC run. 5. The welders and equipment that you connect to this plug need to have a MOCP (maximum overcurrent protection) rating of 50A. A 30A piece of equipment won't, so you aren't protecting it appropriately.
I was sitting here cringing as the violations stacked up in this video and have come to realize these are the reasons we have NEC’s and NEMA, etc… I don’t even want to know what the main panel feeding this potential disaster looks like. I find this kinda work all the time and it makes me pretty nervous when it is a new or unfamiliar site because even touching a conduit running along a wall in a garage can be a very painful and possibly deadly experience. I can’t even tell you how many times I have heard people say the neutral and ground anode bars in a panel are basically the same so it doesn’t matter where you secure and set your neutral or ground wires… I have given up trying to explain why they are indeed bonded at the meter panel or the next in line panel and then NOT bonded together in further sub panels within a given structure because I just get a blank stare or some comment about being nit picky, overly finicky or whatever. Unfortunately we have begun to defeat Darwin’s Theory thru overly protective and many times restrictive laws here in the US, but dammit, this is a prime example of why we need them. I wish this guy well and home he hasn’t burned his house down, zorched the insides of one of his welders, worse yet been hurt or by or hurt someone else since this posting. “If you don’t know what it is, what it does or how it works, it is highly recommended that you use your phone a friend card or at least do a simple quick and dirty Google search for the given subject matter.”
Just an FYI on the reasons for Twist Locks, they have their purpose, especially in industry where a good majority of the time, they are used in vertical drops where one does not wish for mating plug/receptacle becoming accidentally disengaged causing safety hazards or machine damage. The reason for the many styles & patterns has to do with the voltage variations achievable with a three phase system be it 120, 240, 480 , the conductor sizing & number of conductors needed to carry necessary current for supplying specific machine electrical specs. which can call for 3, 4, or 5-wire configurations . Twist locks are not generally used for residential applications.
During the last housing boom, I could not find an electrician willing to relocate a 240V receptacle for my welder. So I had to do it myself. Wish you tube had been around. In 40 years of professional home ownership never messed with 240. The pro charged your buddy $1600! DIY is worth the risk.
When setting up your air compressor, I would consider running pex to outlets around the shop. Me and my dad ran pex to quick connect outlets every 20 feet in the barn and it has made a huge difference. No more 100 foot hoses getting tangled and tripping over them. Eliminating annoyances when working is half the battle. Just some food for thought :)
There's so much wrong with the installation of this receptacle. The only hack is how its done, terribly. Terrible advice. White wire where a green should have been, minimum #10. #6 not needed as #8 is fine as a professional homeowner, whatever the f that is. The panel feed will probably trip as you add more equipment and then use the welder as the feed looks like #8 The receptacle is installed upside down, as the cord on most equipment will be opposite of how its attached to the wall with flexible metallic cable, as that is not MC cable. Race ways are typically put in place and then wires are dragged through. I am tired of Cody saying electricians are arrogant when it's painfully obvious he hasn't a clue nor a code book nor a care to have one or and electrician handbook. We go to school and do field work for a reason.
I was scared for the same reason, and it is justified. He totally wired that welder outlet up wrong. Should have used a green conductor instead of white, and he should have landed it on the ground bus, not the neutral bus. It’s dangerous as he has it wired up right now. And to top it off, he kept calling the FMC (Flexible Metallic Conduit)-which is purchased without wire in it-MC Cable, which is purchased with wire pre-installed inside the metal armor, which also happens to be much smaller than FMC. Cody also tends to fail at meeting the code requirements to secure and support his conduits, including the FMC. He didn’t install any straps on that conduit that I saw. I don’t know if the price he was quoted for the job is justified or not, but he has shown here exactly why you should hire an electrician for certain things. It’s all about safety, and Cody fails on safety in this video.
@@codyshearer7626 You should find a better electrician then. I’m not excusing bad work that some electrician do, but what Cody did in this video is dangerous. That must be said.
A sub-panel is absolutely grounded! If you’re not grounding sub-panels then you’re doing it wrong! Residential sub-panels should be fed with (4) conductors - (2) “Hot legs”, a neutral and a ground.
If you did pull a permit fix the following ... The white wire needs to be green and go to the ground bar, There needs to be a plastic bushing on the connector going into the panel as a anti short for wires Also the knock out hole on panel you used had a ring left over and is not allow to be a ground for the circuit because its pre punched , not solid and must have a special ground ring on fitting or a ground wire in conduit. Changing the white wire to green covers the fact that FMC conduit requires a ground wire. The breaker and wire size were a good choice, although those are based on the duty cycle of the welder and might have been smaller. Check extension cord sizing pre breaker size and duty use.
I don't get it. Do you have a right to drive a car? Well then why do you need a licence, a driver's test for that licence, etc... There are no "rights with no boundries" - other than those inalienable rights - life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness. Generally, your rights stop where they start infringing on other people's rights. Even freedom, or even life, can be forfeit if a person breaks some social norms strong enough to have been inforced by law.
I do hope everything is ok Cody I sense something is troubling you when you ask us to pray for you I certainly will be I don’t wish to know anymore but trust me, you and your family are in my thoughts take care friend
I am also NOT an electrician. I’m almost positive you should not have hooked a white wire up to the neutral bar. You should have hooked a green wire to the grounding bar. I think neutral or common is only used for 120v.
I googled it and this is what I think I understand. An appliance that used 220v and 120v like a stove (the stove heating element part uses the 220v and the light in the oven uses 120v) needs a 4 wire system with neutral and ground hooked up respectively. An appliance like a welder only needs 220v. So it does not need the neutral. It does in fact need the ground. I still am not an electrician. Lol.
@@wranglerstar use what you want. I have all straight blade receptacles in my shop due to their ease of use and not needing secure tension proof plug and cord sets. But twist locks have their place. And they're not difficult to figure out, which was my point. Except for missing lock rings and corrosion in shore power use, I've never heard of NEMA twist locks causing fires. Both of those scenarios are easily avoidable if one makes it a habit to check connections and cord/plug derangement and fixing what needs fixed. Living with deficiencies is what causes those shore power fires. In industry, twist locks are found everywhere and, barring operator error, rarely result in fires. So I'm not sure what you're referencing.
Even though electrons are color blind, the future electricians working on the circuit are not. Also, even though the white and green (bare) wires land on the same bus bar in a "service" panel, they serve different purposes. The white ( neutral ) wire carries current, the the green ( grounding ) wire never carries current - except in a "fault" condition. Steve ( master electrician, from Wisconsin ) a straight 240V welder, does not need a neutral. It is not 120/240V rated
@@grounded-b937 the welder circuit needs no neutral. If he used bx then he didn’t even need a grounding conductor. If he used mc then he did need a grounding conductor. Just throwing that out there lol
@@Justin-bb2hj He didn't use either. What he called MC first, then BX (armored cable ) later, was actually flexible metallic conduit ( what we in the trade call "Greenfield" ). Flexible metallic conduit ALWAYS needs a ground. There is one exception in the NEC ( 20A or less IF you us connectors listed for grounding ), Slight problem here - there are no such animals. So - pull a grounding conductor in flex.
Video quality is noticeably better. Also I am in love with the new shop! You've done an amazing job of creating a great backdrop... oh yeah and its pretty functional too! Still thinking about you and your family, praying y'all get through the tough times you're facing soon.
Learning how to do electrical work from someone that’s not an electrician is amazing! Next time I need to go to the dentist I think I’ll just ask my mechanic to look at my teeth instead!
I was thinking the same thing, I bet his buddy who paid 1500 bucks didn't have a sub panel already in his shop. Plus, hiring an electrician take liability off the homeowner. If that electrician made a mistake and caused a fire, their insurance would cover it. If the homeowner messes it up its on their insurance.
What a wholesome feeling channel this is! I don't subscribe to God but I do subscribe to this channel for the people on it and their way of life. Please never stop it makes me feel that warm glow inside.
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
I am a 13-year-old that has watched almost every single one of your videos. You have taught me so much keep doing what you do
@tony Castillo I’m interested in doing so. Why is it a bad idea?
@@kaitanaka3468 because if you do it wrong it’s very dangerous and expensive
Tony Castillo, my 12 & 14 year old are working beside me on a regular basis. Somebody’s got to teach them, and it’s my job to do that. (In my opinion) Better advice would be don’t try it alone until your absolutely confident in your skills.
Your next job is a 50Amps electrical installation- YOU CAN DO IT!!!!!- WRANGLERSTAR TAUGHT YOU!!!! GO GO GO
@PracticalTech why? He is using sound code. And he prefeces it with that he ia not licensed, and to double check with local codes. I wired up some switches in my house and they work just fine...when I kick them ;)
My dad used to say " learn from other's mistakes ". Thanks for sharing yours. Awesome video, as usual.
As an electrician myself I say good job Cody. Good instruction and camera angles.
A few notes to consider for everybody. There is no nuetral(white). There is a green ground in its place that goes on the bar in the panel where the other grounds are going. Sometimes this is the same bar as the white neutrals and sometimes it’s a separate ground only bar. MC(metal clad cable) is a preassembled cable, meaning it has wires pre installed. So you actually had 1/2” flexible metal conduit. To be code it needs to be fastened with a strap to the wall within 12” of each termination into a box or panel, and at intervals within 4.5’ between these terminations. In that conduit you could use #8 thhn wire but, in nmb cable use #6. Up sizing wire is not a bad idea though on the welder. Otherwise spot on.
Safety thoughts I highly recommend to viewers. Have good dependable battery lighting going first. Then turn off the main breaker with the panel cover still on. Wear gloves, preferably rubberized. Now carefully remove the cover. You can hold the cover by the top of the open door as you remove the last screw. I like a cordless drill for all the screw activities for this entire task. If a screw drops to the floor just forget about it until the cover is safely off. When install is complete, resecure the cover and all covers over any exposed wire before turning on the breakers. Even stand to the side of the panel when resetting the breakers if desired. Final note is to remember that even with the main breaker off the wire feeding the main still is energized I don’t nick it or touch the exposed terminals of that breaker.
This is not “difficult” but please be safe and take your time.
@@TheRealTonyCastillo Point taken. I guess I was just trying too hard to be positive. Was hard to see the breaker on my phone.
Only thing to add, is for 6awg wire, you can use a 10 AWG ground, per NEC table 250.122, sizing of equipment ground conductors.
Greetings: Good reply.
Good notes from RY. Also, make sure you DO NOT use aluminum wire, unless absolutely necessary. The cost savings isn't worth the risk of using it. For main feeders, it will work fine, provided you use the proper torque on the screws in the panel and some de-ox compound. You actually have to check aluminum wires and re-torque them periodically, especially if they get warm. But for a supplemental circuit, copper is the safest wire. Copper rust is conductive. When copper corrodes, it still works just fine and copper also does not expand dramatically when it gets warm.
Aluminum expands a lot more than copper, meaning it will get loose over time, as it goes through heat cycles during use of 50 amp devices, heaters, welders, motors, etc. And the final thing, and WORST thing ever, is that aluminum corrodes and turns into "aluminum oxide" which is sand paper. The aluminum wires turn into sand paper on the surface, when they corrode. Obviously sand paper is not a good conductor of electricity, it's more like glass than metal. Aluminum oxide only flows electric current in one direction, so it won't allow AC power to flow back and forth. Aluminum oxide could work fine for some DC applications, even with severe corrosion - but NEVER with AC.
You can test this yourself. Take 2 aluminum plates, and hook them 120 volts (or 220 volts) and then mix up some distilled water with a scoop of Borax in it. Now stick the plates in the Borax distilled water mix, and then plug the plates straight into the wall outlet, FULL VOLTAGE. There will be ZERO CONDUCTIVITY, and ZERO current across the plates. The Borax accelerates the corrosion on the aluminum, forming an aluminum oxide layer, which blocks AC power.
Thank you Ry. I'm a bit confused though when you say there is no white, it is green. Are you just saying that Cody should have purchased a green instead of white?
What I learned from this video is that electricians make more than me.
And plumbers make more than electricians, there's a hierarchy out there.
@@CrypidLore I've never seen that to be the case.
@@smobro I've noticed it depends on the area and weather you do service calls over new construction
@@CrypidLore plumbers hourly generally is higher. Total package IBEW Wiremen generally is higher. There is also generally more man hours in electrical work on most projects than plumbing. Being plumbing and pipe fitting are separate trades. Side jobs are plentiful in both trades.
@@danichicago9140 Much of that depends upon which route a plumber or electrician goes.
If an electrician goes industrial route there is potential to make a lot more. Especially if you get into installs and maintenance of automation equipment. Or switchboard repair and maintenance.
Same with plumbers if they go industrial and automation more money.
Nothing like seeing the morning Loctite come up over the mountain and the Loctite deer running across the field such a beautiful site
My 2c
For 50A outlets, there doesn't seem to be much commonly available for the twist lock gear, but for 30A and below, the 3-pin dryer-type plug is a step backward - better off with 4-pin (2 hots, neutral, ground) NEMA twist lock gear. That way, you can plug in (and quickly! - removing the dryer type plugs is hard) any equipment you like into it that runs 120, 240, 240 + neutral, etc.
Nag: Also as many others have pointed out, your need at minimum to hook up what is functioning as your ground wire to the correct ground bus, and either tape it with green tape on either end to indicate that it it's purpose, or replace the line with green sheathed wire.
Can we all take a moment to appreciate the loctite animation in the end?
I wondered what the heck that was…
Awesome video, I’m an electrician, and maybe would have done things a little different, but I admit, I have a LOT of temporary thing around my place. I’ve even given them a name, Temporary Permanent. Again thanks for all the great content.
PS: when I shut power off to a panel, I ALWAYS double check and test there is no power to it before I start shoving my hand in there.
Aloha!
If you would have only "maybe done things a little different" than you're not an electrician.
@@mcmahon1130 I was trying to be nice and not give off negative vibes, because the world today is already full of it. Must be a sad existence just looking for things to troll. Sending my Aloha your way and hope you have a great holiday season!
Sincerely,
A Licensed General & Electrical Contractor
@@EeZ3-808
"Must be a sad existence looking for things to troll."
I wouldn't know.
Trying to make sure people don't get seriously hurt or killed isn't trolling. Try again.
I'm not an electrician but I work with high voltage at work and I double check everything after I secure power. I was glad to see someone else say the same. If we reach into a box at work without insulated gloves we will get hammered. even if we secured the power. at home I use more caution, but yeah, there was a lot of good info in this vid. cheers!!
This only works if you have an extra opening for a 50 amp circuit
There is no neutral ( white) in the 240 v circuit ... the second leg of 120 is the return path
Should have pulled a green ground wire through the flex and attach it to the ground bus bar
@@chrisspencer6502 ye but we have 240v they have 120v plus the old colours in the uk was red,black, green/green-yellow
yeah, should be two hot leads, red and black or both black, and a green to ground, no wire going to neutral bar
@@bigjimbo560 the white is just added security the neutral bar is a ground also it's attached to the box which is grounded. Both have white and green nowadays if not a green is added for a extra ground
@@JamesWhite-tg4kw Not in a sub-panel, which this is. Neutral and ground MUST not be bonded in any panel other than the main.
Plus I'm getting a good education just from the comments section, thank you everyone!
I was laughing so hard at the end of the video where he put antlers on the loctite
His troll game is on point!! LOL
I don't know if it was intentional but antlers - 243?
@@GremlinsVillage just realized that lmao I hunt with a 243 aswell
As my father says “you never stop making mistakes, a wise man always learns from them”
Only a fool know best there are always other ways that could be better or have a better application in a different circumstance
A smart man learns from his mistakes, a wise man learns from others mistakes. Learn from this guy.
@@smartcookie3500 with 50amps?
I don't think one can learn from a mistake that kills himself.
Thanks Cody. Wired up my shop welder plug years ago, but I do indeed find being able to use my welder in my shop and wheel it anywhere in the building entertaining.
I did the same thing, I put an outlet right inside my garage and I also made a 40 foot extension cord because my garage was too full to really weld in without pulling stuff out so I could get to the other side of the garage or out in the driveway or under my carport with it. Pretty much exactly The set up you made and I absolutely loved it. When I moved I brought the extension with me and still have it, and I chose the same plug like you did, it’s just much simpler than trying to deal with all the ridiculous plug options. Lol I just asked an electrician what gauge wire I would need and they had it at my local building supply store, it was a little expensive but worth every penny in the end.
Your panel appears to have separate ground and neutral bars, as it should being a sub-panel. If it’s a straight 240v welder your ground wire is the wrong color and connected to the wrong place in the panel. If it’s a 120/240v welder you are missing a ground wire. Either way, it’s a fail.
Agreed! That’s a sub panel and should not be bonded. On a 240V circuit for your welder, you shouldn’t have a neutral. The two 120V legs or phases carry the AC current back to the source. That is what the neutral wire does on a 120V circuit because it has to have a return path and it only has one hot leg, so it needs a neutral. EXTREME SAFETY TIP: You are using what is intended to be and equipment bonding conductor connected to your neutral buss. The white wire in your circuit should be connected to the ground buss where your bare copper wires are terminated and by code should be green. The equipment bonding conductor need not be any larger than the bare copper wire connected to your grounding electrode driven in the earth at the first service disconnect where the service enters the building at that first service disconnect. Probably 6AWG OR 8AWG. I couldn’t see, but the green bonding screw should be removed in the sub panel if it isn’t. A system should have only one grounding electrode driven into the earth at only one point. The equipment bonding conductor is the last lone of defense to protect you at the equipment. It rarely will shut the circuit off in the case of a fault. The only way to stop the current is to shut it off at the source which will occur at the circuit breaker for the welder in an over current or short circuit condition. You are basically bonding your sub panel when the welder is plugged in. Any fault current will be sent over your entire neutral side of your system rather than back to the main service disconnect where the neutral and grounding electrodes are bonded in that panel. I’m not an electrician but studied the NEC when I added a 100 Amp sub in my garage and rewired my house because I didn’t like the multi-wire branch circuit design. I brought it up to the 2017 NEC code, had it inspected.
@@fishandgameman I got some bad news, don't watch any of his other videos on electrical. or you'll be writing the same thing on every one of them...
Never ceases to amaze me that so many of the DIY crowd thinks that doing electrical work is a hobby. There is MUCH more to the deal than black to black and white to white. They also think that bonding (or not) is basically arbitrary.
@@andrewbieger5004 Agreed! It’s not until they lose a neutral and the ground wire tries to supply an outbuilding with current and the whole thing burns down. THEN they’ll ask for advice on the importance of bonding.
@@andrewbieger5004 The DIY crowd can STILL wire the run correctly without having to hire the professional for jobs like this. Just because you are not a professional, doesn't mean that you have to hire one every time. Maybe that is also what you meant, but your condescending wording implies otherwise.
Don't use 10 gauge for a welder extension cord on a 50 amp circuit. It's cheaper to buy a 8 gauge extension cord than to build one yourself.
It's great to see how authentic the folksiness has gotten over the years. Keep livin' the the good life!👍
Sorry Wranglerstar but electrical inspection=fail. You connected the EGC (ground terminal) of the receptacle to the neutral in the panel. You should have used a green conductor instead of a white one and connected it the EGC bus on the left side of the panel. BTW that's FMC (flexible metallic conduit) not MC cable.
Yes and it needs a bushing installed.
Plus that isn’t a ground bar on the left side, they are both neutral bars. Still need to install the ground bar.
@@brantcarpenter33 That's incorrect. There is no connection between the EGC (ground) bar on the left and the neutral bar on the right. This is a sub-panel so the EGC bus and the neutral bus are isolated from each other. The EGC bus is bonded to the enclosure by the strap in the center of the bus.
Also at 8:50, I see other wires connected with wire nuts at the top of the box. My understanding is there are no connections or other devices allowed in the panel other than to breakers or the neutral and ground bus bars - the whole thing is a walking code violation. Clearly the only "permit" he pulls is the one where he's permitting people on youtube to imagine he's qualified and knows what he's doing, which he clearly isn't. I installed a 50A circuit for a welder a couple of years ago, but at least I did it properly!
@@beesinspace6470 Nah man, you can splice wires in a panel.
If the welder has a 4 wire hookup id upgrade the recep and cord. Grounding is one of the most important things. Also keeping ground and neutrals separate in subpanels. Ya don't want current running through your ground wire that can go to equipment and possibly shock and harm yourself. Electricity will take any and all paths back to its source. Hope that was helpful! I love your videos!!
A lot of people would edit out their mistakes. But keeping them in will let us know what to watch out for 👍
For Sure. I've learned much from my own mistakes. Evolution!
@@sirpainter1 You try that mistake with a live 50amp -good luck
@@laurentiuslafoca Ha ha, I don't mess with things that can kill me. I have friends that are qualified.
If he edits out all his mistakes doing electrical. He wouldn't have a video left to post...
The image is really excellent. I like that even though I’ve wired tons of these types of power supplies, I still enjoyed watching you do it. Your so right twist locks were invented in a hot and dark place.
Nice vid. But raised some questions for me. I am no pro electrician but I believe that normal 240V has 2 live conductors and a ground. No neutral. You do seem to mix up neutral and ground a bit throughout. Not the same thing. The neutral is intended for 120V split phase. Your 3rd wire should be green and connected directly to the ground bar, not to the neutral bar, AFAIK. Yes, the 120 neutral and ground are ultimately connected together someplace, maybe in your panel, but functionally they play a different role at the user level. Especially safety wise in case of a problem. The color coding is not just a trivial annoying convention, it may save you and other people from trouble at some point. It's not like your system will explode the first time you use it, not by a long shot, but personally, I would try to build it fully correctly, to be safer down the line. And this is actually interesting stuff to figure out.
The reason an electrician is called is because of a thing called "duty cycle" in the NEC. Amperage of the welder and wire size are not the full story.
No not the equipment duty cycle. The circuit duty cycle
The image is good. I could tell a difference even before you mentioned having a new camera.
Me too. But I didn't really like the new one.
If this gets inspected by a legitimate inspector it will fail. You cannot use a white wire as a ground wire. It must be green or bare copper. You are doing a great job but if people are watching you to learn they need to be taught the proper way. No biggy, just correct it and tell people about the mistake.
And land it on the correct bus.
@@socmonki Most non electricians don't understand the difference between neutral and ground and having separate buss after the first point of distribution or about when to put that extra green screw that came with the box into the buss!!
@@williamdebow3478 true!
Might be able to pass if he marks the whole wire green or strip the whole wire so it is bare
What about the missing bushing?
Uploaded 2 minutes ago? Just intime for me to watch while i wash up 😁 nothing beats a wranglerstar vlog while your doing the boring chores. Stay safe and god bless
The red coated lockdeers are migrating early his year.
Nice video, but just a few things about it I’ll clue you in on. That isn’t MC Cable, it’s actually flexible metallic conduit, we often refer to as greenfield at least down where I’m at. MC is similar to FMC but has wire already in it and most of the time smaller in diameter. Another thing is that while the two hot wire color are good, the third where you added the white is actually a ground not a neutral since it’s a 240 volt only circuit not a 120/240 volt circuit for instance like and range or stove is a 120/240 volt circuit since the burners use 240 volts while the electronic components like the digital clock and timers run on 120 volts. Which is why newer construction and wiring started using 4 wire receptacles and plugs versus the older 3 wire version where they used the ground as a neutral, but that’s another story. And last thing is the size wire you use depends on the type wire of cable you use, most residential areas use romex so you would be right in the 50 amp breaker sizing to use a number 6 awg wire, but since you did happen to run a conduit and use THHN single conductors like you did you can very well use a number 8 awg wire if you so chose to given that it’s not a great distance to the receptacle from the panel. I mentioned this because the wire type you used I’m referring to the NEC table 310.15(B)(16) for ampacity rating of wire or cables for different insulation types in three different temperature ratings measured in degrees Celsius, 60, 75, and 90. There are only two types that most residential residents deal with that romex which is the type that you see most of that comes in cable for etc. 14/2, 12/3 and so forth. And the other type is THHN which is dual rated THHN/THWN these are bought in the big box stores and both have a insulation rating of 90 degree Celsius, but the romex ampacity is while rated for 90 is limited to the 60 degree Celsius column which means a smaller current for a given wire size. But THHN/THWN Cable can use the 75 or 60 degree column depending on the size Wire and application of use. And the for the most part you are stuck with using the 60 degree column for wire sizes 10 awg and smaller except certain things like motors, and central air conditioners in a residential setting according to uf I’m not mistaken article 240 in the NEC. But for the most part 14 awg for 15 amps, 12 awg for 20 amps, and 10 awg for 30 amps most always. But that’s just a lil info thrown your way. If you are using conduit and using THHN you can use 8 awg for 50 amps but if using regular black romex without conduit number 6 awg is needed. But bigger wire can be used, that’s just if you wanted to save a few pennies. I didn’t mean to get too technical with it. Keep doing videos, and have a great day.
I love thoughtful posts like this, usually learning more in the comments section than in the actual video. It is my understanding that if you're going to use the higher temp rating, everything in the circuit needs to be rated to the higher temp, including the breaker. So, even if the wire is OK at 90, if the breaker is only rated to 60, you're hooped, you need to use the 60 column for wire size. I live in Canada so we use a different code. All the breakers I can buy are only rated to 60, and even inquiry with the breaker manufacturer ends up with 60. So we are stuck, AWG 6 if the run isn't too long.
@@spelunkerd i live in canada and want to do this also so could you let me know what wire and breakers I have to use here.
@@throoppete4021 Depending on the city and province you live in, you may get very helpful advice from your local building inspectors. I usually draw out a plan, think it through very carefully, and then go to the inspection dept with a list of questions before I even start. When they realize they are dealing with somebody who put effort in and honestly wants to do it correctly, they will help you and the final inspection is a breeze. I would not even consider trying to do this without an inspection, it is illegal and you will be liable for dangerous mistakes, even years later. It takes hundreds of hours of study to get things right, so approach the task with humility. When adding something like a welder you need to consider whether your feeder wires can tolerate the increase in demand, and the duty cycle, which is a tricky question if you have a transformer style welder and a house with older or overloaded wiring already. PS Knight published a series of booklets (electrical code simplified) that distill down the CEC to a readable format, and a recent edition of his book would be a good place to start.
Funny the circumstances that we eat our words.
Cody criticizes the previous electricians workmanship installing the panel and the "looks" of things and instals the shodiest looking work of the whole panel. I know he's gonna "replace" it.
Just funny irony.
I’ve always recommended friends to instal an L14-30 twist lock in their garages. It’s the twist lock equivalent to a dryer plug, and it’s far far the most useful plug out there. It’s the same 4pin twist lock that is on 95% of small generators. Becuase it has 2 legs and a neutral, you can plug just about anything into it, so long as it draws less than 30 amps of course
I like the twist lock because there is less chance someone will accidentally pull it out of the wall while im working. Also those drier receptacles are hard as all hell to pull out, and I have to stop my self from allowing my fingers to wrap around it to gain a better purchase on it while pulling it out. Im always worried about getting shocked that way.
I am not an electrician so take my comments with a grain of salt.
#1, for the safety of your viewers, please begin videos about working with high voltage in sub panels with these safety protocols...shut off power at the main panel not just at the sub panel, then, test for voltage with a voltmeter before sticking your hands in that sub panel with the cover off.
#2, in addition to the 50 amp (NEMA 6-50) outlet you have installed, I suggest that you mount another 240 outlet fused at 30 amps (NEMA 6-30) for the 10 gauge extension cord you will be running as you never know when an unsuspecting person might someday plug a 40 or 50 amp device thru that 10 gauge wire which is rated 30 amps max.
It appears you have a 4 wire sub panel in your garage. It all looks good except you should have ran that "ground wire" over to the ground bar, not the neutral bar.
And it should be green.
@@COBARHORSE1 I agree, at the very least should be taped green
See that's where the mistake just gets bigger. It seemed logical to attach the white wire where other white wires were. If the proper color had been used he probably would have terminated it at the right place. On the terminal that is bonded to the panel, not the neutral buss that is floating. Moral of the story is the outlet will not be properly grounded. At minimum phase the white wire with green tape on both ends and relocate the wire in the panel to the ground buss. 5 minute fix.
@@TheRealTonyCastillo In all honesty it should be fine unless he needs a ground to protect him one day like a damaged wire somewhere or kneeling in water or on damp concrete. The welder does not "need" the ground to work properly, it's just that he has no leakage protection AND the neutral is now connected to the frame of the welder and can induce current onto it causing a shock hazard. Other than getting electrocuted, no big deal! A bigger issue is that people come here to learn from him because he is an awesome guy, but then they learn bad habits and get hurt. Everybody wants to be an electrician. They learn just enough to get a false sense of security and be dangerous.
@@williamdebow3478 And that is why we get paid so much. Because we know to do it correctly. :)
I know you get a lot of know-it-alls when you do your own work. However, as an electrical contractor/master electrician I have one tip for you. Going forward, do not rely on the metallic conduit as a ground path. I have seen more problems (electrocutions) in shop settings because of not having a ground wire ran with the circuits. If your metallic conduit is done perfectly, you should be fine on 20 and 30 amp circuits...but conduit (especially flexible conduit) has a maximum overcurrent device rating when relying on it for an adequate ground path. Check the National Electrical Code. As a rule, we always run a green ground in all raceways...because we never know if the mechanical conduit connections in a workshop will always be 100% since they are exposed. We like to have the ground conductor as the main path in case the conduit connections are ever damaged. Shops and garages especially. Also, you can go with #8 for 50 amp as long as it is not NM cable (Romex). #8 THHN or THWN is rated at 55 amps unless you have some local code ammendment that says otherwise. I will say that you do a really good job though with what I have seen...and yes, Twist-Lok receptacles are a headache for us too. Nothing wrong with ditching them if you can.
Just a few suggestions or possibly helpful pieces of information if you will. If you notice the screw in the plug you landed the neutral on is green and is so because it’s intended for a ground wire and not a neutral. Most anything that requires 240v does not require a neutral, minus some oddball motor loads. I also took notice in the fact that none of the other branch circuits coming out of your panel (breaker box) have a grounding conductor in their conduit. Non of which meets NEC requirements. It is your property so I won’t presume to tell you what/how to do your things, would just like to point out the aforementioned details. Love your videos though! Keep up the good work!
it looks like all the grounds are twisted together coming through the elbow at the bottom of the panel. The white neutral wire becomes a ground. He should add green tape to the wire indicating that it is now a ground not a neutral wire and move it to the ground bar
Yeah he put the white wire which should actually be a ground (colour of wire is irrelevant) but it should have gone to the ground bar not the neutral bar. 230v Welders and air compressors don’t need a neutral white wire they just need the 2 hot and ground wire.
Thanks Cody for removing obstacles for your loyal viewers. Thanks also for taking one for the team ;)I
Thats a ground not a neutral and it should be green.
And it shouldn't be on the neutral bus. If that panel is fed from the main panel the neutral and ground are bonded there, and that white should be on the ground bus with green tape to signify it is a ground, not a neutral. This is why people who aren't electricians shouldn't be doing electrical work.
@@socmonki or people who don't know what they're doing,I'm not an electrician yet but I do all my own work as long as I am certain I know what I'm doing
240V, two hots and a ground.
@@socmonki FYI - code says it has to be #4 and larger for you to identify it with green tape. Technically, a green wire should have been used.
@@xxMacDaddy84xx code or not, it's still supposed to be a ground and either bare or green. I doubt an inspector would fail a #6 green, but he will fail the white on neutral bus.
That gave me a good chuckle when you said, "...see, you're not wasting time on TH-cam at all..." I do feel guilty sometimes, but I'm guessing I'm not the only one.
This is the last time I do this, oh I'll just temp this in lol love the content as always!
I'm sooo glad the loctite is back. One of the best things in 2020!
Thanks for the content Mr. W!
Jack of all trades, master of... not electricity. 240v welder should have a green ground wire going to the left side ground busbar in your sub-panel, not the white "neutral" connected where it is -that ties back to your main panels neutral.
I have to say your videos and this one in particular remind me of an old saying you're not wasting time if you are enjoying yourself
Our cost doubles when we come fix what a homeowner messed up. LOL oh and the 3/4 greenfield we just bend until it breaks then cut and trim with side cutters. Much quicker than finding the saw. And you have to install a green ground in flex. It cannot be used as a ground.
Ha, and attaching the ground so far down on the bar... so close.
@@wobblysauce He didn't attach the 'ground', he fully believes that's a neutral.
I was going to say the image is crazy good on this video. 1500 dollars for hooking up a plug is crazy I got mine hooked up for like 200 dollars.
I'm an electrician. 1500 for a 50a just means the guy didn't want to do it or there's much more to the story than we know. 200 sounds more reasonable for a rec right out the panel.
I like your 'mountain fresh' Loctite graphic there at the end.
Love that herd of localope you filmed there at the end! So beautiful!
FYI that’s metal flex (aluminum or steel) not M/C cable. M/C is essentially mental flex with relevant wire size and number of wires. Yes white is a neutral but you used it for a ground so it should be green. Sometimes a neutral is required, neutral being always white. Ground is always green. Just a couple pointers, nothing against the video!
Neutrals are gray at times, man.
@@mcmahon1130 On a 277v circuit, grey identifies the neutral conductor. Even fancier, is having all the neutrals with matching phase colors as stripes.
Of course, this is best practice, but in the electrical service speciality, we'll often use what's on the truck instead of running back n forth getting supplies.
I just converted two hots and a neutral to two hots and a ground. I was happy to see the ground wire capped off in the box when I opened it up. I checked to make sure it was actually grounded. All done for $15 in the wall and bought a $50 25’ 50A extension cord.
My late uncle used to say..”There’s nothing more permanent than something temporary”..😁Keep up the good work Cody, we’re with ya!
I don't know if he originated this, but "Watch Wes Work" often says.."it's temporary, unless it works"
I appreciate the fade to black for the mid roll ad. Classy stuff
Did notice that the breaker you used doesn’t match the panel might not be UL listed the the application seimens panel cutler-hammer breaker
Video quality Looks great and the audio sounds good as well. When you can get to it, now that YT streams 4K to Apple TV, I’d love to watch your family in the full glory of my 65” curved tv.
Thanks for the lesson as always friend!
Morning from aus cody! You get my days started!
watch it before bedtime 23:00 nighttime 🇩🇰😴
Thanks man, been a bit sick lately and honestly your vids really help calm the mind and you're a great digital harbor in a storm... Thanks
It would be a good idea to bond your flex to the ground bus in the panel. I believe the white wire should be green and terminated on the ground bus instead of the neutral bus. Good work and it’s good to see people try to figure these things out themselves. Respect
Most underrated comment of this thread!
I really like the US system when it comes to solid steel conduits, flexible steel conduits, metal gland nuts and all the associated screw on accessories. For shop floor and industrial applications looks like the wiring will hold up to wear and tear. In Israel we typically use regular PVC cables and plastic gland nuts and junction boxes. There always cracked, broken, get run over and squished by wheels. Even in Europe I haven't seen wiring protected as well as the US system.
Impressive herd at the end. LOL
You might even say they 'stick' together. 😁
Brother Cody, it's always a pleasure watching your beautiful videos. Never discount your awesome skills, ok...
Stay Safe, Bee Well, keep the cutlery sharp. Shalom
Where to start on the NEC disaster you filmed...
1. That's not 'MC Cable', it's Flexible Metallic Conduit or FMC.
2. A 3-prong outlet is a 240V outlet, not a 120/240V, so the middle prong is a ground, not neutral. Note the brass rivet connecting the terminal to the enclosure. Hope you don't have a phase imbalance, otherwise you might want to avoid touching that conduit.
2a. Because you put a white wire on the receptacle's ground terminal, you connected the other end to the wrong terminal in the panel.
2b. It looks like you don't have a neutral bonding jumper in the panel, assuming this is a sub-panel, so good luck on that ground path.
3. Using 10/3 rubber cord with 50A devices on it exceeds the rating of the cable.
4. You didn't put any conduit straps on your excessively long FMC run.
5. The welders and equipment that you connect to this plug need to have a MOCP (maximum overcurrent protection) rating of 50A. A 30A piece of equipment won't, so you aren't protecting it appropriately.
I was sitting here cringing as the violations stacked up in this video and have come to realize these are the reasons we have NEC’s and NEMA, etc… I don’t even want to know what the main panel feeding this potential disaster looks like. I find this kinda work all the time and it makes me pretty nervous when it is a new or unfamiliar site because even touching a conduit running along a wall in a garage can be a very painful and possibly deadly experience. I can’t even tell you how many times I have heard people say the neutral and ground anode bars in a panel are basically the same so it doesn’t matter where you secure and set your neutral or ground wires… I have given up trying to explain why they are indeed bonded at the meter panel or the next in line panel and then NOT bonded together in further sub panels within a given structure because I just get a blank stare or some comment about being nit picky, overly finicky or whatever. Unfortunately we have begun to defeat Darwin’s Theory thru overly protective and many times restrictive laws here in the US, but dammit, this is a prime example of why we need them. I wish this guy well and home he hasn’t burned his house down, zorched the insides of one of his welders, worse yet been hurt or by or hurt someone else since this posting. “If you don’t know what it is, what it does or how it works, it is highly recommended that you use your phone a friend card or at least do a simple quick and dirty Google search for the given subject matter.”
I love Loctite migration season. Nothing more impressive than a big bull Loctite walking out across across a meadow.
How long was the home run to the electrical panel? Just saying $1500 is meaningless without context.
Yeah, and that price includes doing it the right and safe way, being covered by both homeowner's and the electrician's insurance.
Just an FYI on the reasons for Twist Locks, they have their purpose, especially in industry where a good majority of the time, they are used in vertical drops where one does not wish for mating plug/receptacle becoming accidentally disengaged causing safety hazards or machine damage. The reason for the many styles & patterns has to do with the voltage variations achievable with a three phase system be it 120, 240, 480 , the conductor sizing & number of conductors needed to carry necessary current for supplying specific machine electrical specs. which can call for 3, 4, or 5-wire configurations . Twist locks are not generally used for residential applications.
Cody, PLEASE ground that circuit.
He'll find out why eventually. Too bad people make dangerous videos like this.
Nicely done. Thoroughly enjoyed the video and friendly commentary. Thank you.
I was getting a drink of water when the locktight deer came across the field. I almost spit it out. That was thanks.
The picture quality is incredible .
Don't put an electrical box on the end of an extension cord if you have any employees, anyone else using your shop, or kids...it's a bad idea.
When I saw the box I laughed out loud. Please don't encourage this guy. He's going to hurt himself or others.
During the last housing boom, I could not find an electrician willing to relocate a 240V receptacle for my welder.
So I had to do it myself. Wish you tube had been around. In 40 years of professional home ownership never messed with 240.
The pro charged your buddy $1600! DIY is worth the risk.
When setting up your air compressor, I would consider running pex to outlets around the shop. Me and my dad ran pex to quick connect outlets every 20 feet in the barn and it has made a huge difference. No more 100 foot hoses getting tangled and tripping over them. Eliminating annoyances when working is half the battle. Just some food for thought :)
I have a degree in Electrical Engineering and I'm still glad I took a Home Wiring Course at the local Vo Tech.
You put the receptacle on the wall upside down
yes he did, not a very good video
Was fully expecting those loctites to start flying with a Santa sleigh at the end.
Did any other electricians notice the white wire landed where the ground should have gone.
There's so much wrong with the installation of this receptacle.
The only hack is how its done, terribly.
Terrible advice.
White wire where a green should have been, minimum #10.
#6 not needed as #8 is fine as a professional homeowner, whatever the f that is.
The panel feed will probably trip as you add more equipment and then use the welder as the feed looks like #8
The receptacle is installed upside down, as the cord on most equipment will be opposite of how its attached to the wall with flexible metallic cable, as that is not MC cable.
Race ways are typically put in place and then wires are dragged through. I am tired of Cody saying electricians are arrogant when it's painfully obvious he hasn't a clue nor a code book nor a care to have one or and electrician handbook.
We go to school and do field work for a reason.
Just one more project on my list that you have showed me how to finish. And thanks for the hunting season smile at the end
As an electrician when I see the word “hack” on an electrical video I get scared
Im shure you are a great electrician, but the electrician that wired my house was a "hack" in his work.
Glad I'm not the only one who cringed
I was scared for the same reason, and it is justified. He totally wired that welder outlet up wrong. Should have used a green conductor instead of white, and he should have landed it on the ground bus, not the neutral bus. It’s dangerous as he has it wired up right now. And to top it off, he kept calling the FMC (Flexible Metallic Conduit)-which is purchased without wire in it-MC Cable, which is purchased with wire pre-installed inside the metal armor, which also happens to be much smaller than FMC. Cody also tends to fail at meeting the code requirements to secure and support his conduits, including the FMC. He didn’t install any straps on that conduit that I saw. I don’t know if the price he was quoted for the job is justified or not, but he has shown here exactly why you should hire an electrician for certain things. It’s all about safety, and Cody fails on safety in this video.
@@stewdaven28 give him a break looked just fine to me. Codys work is far superior to any electrician ive worked with.
@@codyshearer7626 You should find a better electrician then. I’m not excusing bad work that some electrician do, but what Cody did in this video is dangerous. That must be said.
You can definitely tell you have a GREAT CAMERA with awesome DETAIL!!
EXPERT -- One who has made many mistakes.
EX= "has been", Spirt= "a drip under pressure", Expert= "has been drip under pressure"
I realized my spelling error, considered leaving it for effect. Could be tee shirt or shop sign. LOL
Expert-Man with a briefcase over 100 miles from home.
Look at them big branch loctite bucks! so rare, but beautiful to see them in the wild like that ;-) LOL
10 gauge is only rated for 30 amps you need to upgrade that wire
How exciting getting your work shop all in tact. God bless you and your family from The Land Down Under
The neutral or white wire is actually acting as a ground, should have ran a green wire for the ground instead.
This could be sub panel. He never specifies . a sub panel is not grounded. Because a grounded wire is a non current carrying conductor.
@@lovebug1336 Yet another oddity in the electrical code that makes zero sense. Grounds everywhere, except in a sub panel?
@@lovebug1336 a sub panel is grounded, just the neutral is not bonded to the panel 🤦🏻♂️
A sub-panel is absolutely grounded! If you’re not grounding sub-panels then you’re doing it wrong! Residential sub-panels should be fed with (4) conductors - (2) “Hot legs”, a neutral and a ground.
If you did pull a permit fix the following ... The white wire needs to be green and go to the ground bar, There needs to be a plastic bushing on the connector going into the panel as a anti short for wires Also the knock out hole on panel you used had a ring left over and is not allow to be a ground for the circuit because its pre punched , not solid and must have a special ground ring on fitting or a ground wire in conduit. Changing the white wire to green covers the fact that FMC conduit requires a ground wire. The breaker and wire size were a good choice, although those are based on the duty cycle of the welder and might have been smaller. Check extension cord sizing pre breaker size and duty use.
We have a right... if we get a permit... lol..
If you need permission to do something.. it is illogical to think you had a right to do it..
Words you only hear on TH-cam. Everyone else just does it. "Oh, what that? It was like that!"
@@landonashby2029 Exactly. I mean, not me, I would *NEVER* do that, but everyone else just does it :-D
I don't get it. Do you have a right to drive a car? Well then why do you need a licence, a driver's test for that licence, etc...
There are no "rights with no boundries" - other than those inalienable rights - life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness. Generally, your rights stop where they start infringing on other people's rights.
Even freedom, or even life, can be forfeit if a person breaks some social norms strong enough to have been inforced by law.
@@landonashby2029 💯 hahah
@@NGinuity lol
Glad to see some Loctite Reindeer have been spotted on the new Homestead. Something the previous Homestead was unfortunately lacking.
I do hope everything is ok Cody I sense something is troubling you when you ask us to pray for you I certainly will be I don’t wish to know anymore but trust me, you and your family are in my thoughts take care friend
Video quality looks great on my phone, ill be doing this very project here shortly, thanks for the video!
Why would you put this up here? You shouldn’t be putting that ground that’s white for some reason on the neutral bar in a sub panel.
Yawn,
I am really enjoying see how you upgrade your shop.
I am also NOT an electrician. I’m almost positive you should not have hooked a white wire up to the neutral bar. You should have hooked a green wire to the grounding bar. I think neutral or common is only used for 120v.
I'll ask the inspector,
I googled it and this is what I think I understand. An appliance that used 220v and 120v like a stove (the stove heating element part uses the 220v and the light in the oven uses 120v) needs a 4 wire system with neutral and ground hooked up respectively. An appliance like a welder only needs 220v. So it does not need the neutral. It does in fact need the ground. I still am not an electrician. Lol.
"Of course this video is for entertainment purposes only, but let's say you wre going to entertain yourself..."! I love it!
Definitely a “hack”.....
There is no magic in twistlock plugs or receptacles. Search for a NEMA plug chart and choose the amperage and voltage you need. It's pretty simple....
They magically start fires,
@@wranglerstar use what you want. I have all straight blade receptacles in my shop due to their ease of use and not needing secure tension proof plug and cord sets. But twist locks have their place. And they're not difficult to figure out, which was my point.
Except for missing lock rings and corrosion in shore power use, I've never heard of NEMA twist locks causing fires. Both of those scenarios are easily avoidable if one makes it a habit to check connections and cord/plug derangement and fixing what needs fixed. Living with deficiencies is what causes those shore power fires.
In industry, twist locks are found everywhere and, barring operator error, rarely result in fires. So I'm not sure what you're referencing.
The ground should be green. There is no neutral
Even though electrons are color blind, the future electricians working on the circuit are not. Also, even though the white and green (bare) wires land on the same bus bar in a "service" panel, they serve different purposes. The white ( neutral ) wire carries current, the the green ( grounding ) wire never carries current - except in a "fault" condition. Steve ( master electrician, from Wisconsin ) a straight 240V welder, does not need a neutral. It is not 120/240V rated
@@grounded-b937 spot on and well said.
@@grounded-b937 exactly , the hazard here is fairly minor but under the wrong type of failure condition some one could get a nasty shock.
@@grounded-b937 the welder circuit needs no neutral. If he used bx then he didn’t even need a grounding conductor. If he used mc then he did need a grounding conductor. Just throwing that out there lol
@@Justin-bb2hj He didn't use either. What he called MC first, then BX (armored cable ) later, was actually flexible metallic conduit ( what we in the trade call "Greenfield" ). Flexible metallic conduit ALWAYS needs a ground. There is one exception in the NEC ( 20A or less IF you us connectors listed for grounding ), Slight problem here - there are no such animals. So - pull a grounding conductor in flex.
I’m going to suggest that all new installations use the 4 wire standard that includes a ground
@@nikkilopez5462 he used metal for the race way, so it is grounded to the panel. But, this is not ideal.
Video quality is noticeably better. Also I am in love with the new shop! You've done an amazing job of creating a great backdrop... oh yeah and its pretty functional too!
Still thinking about you and your family, praying y'all get through the tough times you're facing soon.
I don’t know if it a function of better contrast but the video seemed dark. Maybe the lighting was different.
@@johnwaw6363The dark almost vignette look is a Cannon
feature
That bench and vice and lighting is really giving me the fizz
Learning how to do electrical work from someone that’s not an electrician is amazing! Next time I need to go to the dentist I think I’ll just ask my mechanic to look at my teeth instead!
I was thinking the same thing, I bet his buddy who paid 1500 bucks didn't have a sub panel already in his shop. Plus, hiring an electrician take liability off the homeowner. If that electrician made a mistake and caused a fire, their insurance would cover it. If the homeowner messes it up its on their insurance.
Dumb, you can't do dentistry on yourself, but you sure can learn how to work on your car by yourself.
I can really tell the difference with these new cameras. NICE!
I remember the days when vast herds of loctites roamed these hill!
What a wholesome feeling channel this is! I don't subscribe to God but I do subscribe to this channel for the people on it and their way of life. Please never stop it makes me feel that warm glow inside.
Almost shot tv when all the racks where going by.
The new Canon image is really consistent and love the production quality.