I've been welding 2.5yrs at home. Just now grabed som C02. Thinking its gona be so so nice not having that cloud running in my nose, but I'm not looking forward to the fater tip.
I was told this a while back from a welder friend and it does make a big difference. The other thing he said was get some scrap steel and practice, practice, practice......Good advice as always in your posts, keep up the good work.
as someone who took the welding class high school and is almost 40 and even started a welding company, dont do this. what hes saying does make sense, but why get used to welding without a nozzle then when you switch to mig you have to learn that process with the nozzle. the nozzle does a few things and its going to depend on what youre welding. generally speaking the nozzle will recess the tip and if you take your wire cutters and trim it off flush with the nozzle youre stick out distance is the same all the time and you dont have to worry about holding the nozzle off the work piece as its also an insulator and will prevent you from grounding out the tip along with protecting the tip from the majority of spatter. also some people will grind the nozzle back so the tip is flush with the nozzle and it does the same thing as hes talking about and it works with mig also so theres no new learning curve and no need to buying a special nozzle. and be careful with the anti spatter and gel as it just adds to the toxins youre breathing in while welding.
Rubbish. I manage an LNG/aviation/oil/mining company and have 200 men under me. What this video is suggesting is completely correct. Skilled welders swap processes whenever required from TIG pressure welding on 20,000kpa gas compressor pipelines, to 1.6mm flux core on outdoor mining hoppers, to short-arc gas mig. Your excuse shows your own experience shortfalls, and your low expectations of others.
@@gw5436 hey jackass he wasnt talking about skilled welders. and you mention TIG which doesnt apply to this but also requires gas, and 1.6MM is a welding rod, the only thing that would apply would be the MIG but for some reason youre adding gas into it when short-arc mig is the proper term and the G in mig already stands for gas. so im not really sure what youre trying to say but just stay in your office
I weld every so often and learned that trick removing the noz soon after starting. I bought the Lincoln 225 that uses fluxcore wire and very happy with what I can do with it.
I tossed my nozzle from my flux core many years ago. Completely changed the game. All the nozzle did was fill up with slag and flux and it was a pain to clean it so often because it just got clogged up very quickly.
Thanks for this. So simple, and I literally just figured it out for myself. I was struggling massively to keep sight of my puddle. Took the MIG tip off, and all my welds improved dramatically. Yes, I'm new to welding.
I figured this out shortly after buying my Mig welder. I got frustrated and gently removed the nozzle and gingerly tossed it to the side. When I couldn't find it "because it was windy and the wind carried it too far" I just continued without it and my welds improved instantly.
I've got a cheap Mastercraft flux-core welder I picked up years ago. Plugs into 120, which makes it very handy to lug around to where I'm working (I also don't have a 240v line in the garage). One knob for feed speed and just high/low voltage and amperage switches. One day I want to invest in a multi-process welder (being able to TIG-weld aluminum would be very handy my repairs as well), but even what I have now has been very valuable for doing repairs for my landscaping equipment and my trailer. Even at the hobbiest level, having a basic flux-core welder is a good investment!
I used to do ornamental welding... hand rails, decorative balcony rails, Gates etc... 1/2" X 1/2" pickets, 1 1/2" posts (smaller welds) and with what I'm going to recommend I also did 4" X 4" X 1/4" posts as well as heavier welds too. 0.030 welding wire really helped me to put down really nice/beautiful/"ornamental welds" that I literally painted over after only wire wheeling the dingle balls off. (press read more) A bit slower for the larger welds yes but the welds were full pen and I came to prefer welding downhill rather than uphill as the smaller wire gave me the needed puddle control to do so. If you're used to 0.045 you won't like it at first but keep with it for just a little while to find the new wire speed and heat adjustments and you'll come to appreciate the provided control and versatility of .030 flex core wire. It was also much better for cast iron welding! .030 flux core wire came to be all that I used (95% of the time), contaminants floated out better too. Very Pure welds and with proper penetration! BION If changing from gas wire to flux core wire or vice versa... """don't forget to reverse the welders polarity"""! Admittedly most of you won't like 0.030 flux core wire because it's a little slower but I loved it! Dudes... the welds don't take long, it's the prep and the set up that takes the time and I had no weld grinding to do when I finished, just dingle ball removal with a wire wheel so... does the "project" actually take longer? No! 0.030 flux core... try it! Don't forget the 0.030 welder tips and a 0.030 roller wheel for your welder too. Both are very inexpensive and "super-simple to exchange" Cheers: Robert
Good prep work takes time, but results in much better welds, especially when you're repairing something that's been used and abused in the elements for years instead of working with fresh stock. Getting down to bare metal when repairing a trailer is always a huge hassle, but necessary if you don't want the weld to fail on you.
And a generator if you can afford it because extension cords to the fence line reduce arc power and can cause " black popcorn buildup" from weak electricity supply . A voltage drop or something on long extension cords . I think a 10 pound roll could be made onto a spool rack on the back of one of these little welders and drill a hole in the back wall of the welder in line with the wire feed roller and feed the wure through a plastic tube
Excellent advice. Just FCAW welded a 22g sheet panel repair on my sons car. Wish I had seen this first and removed the MIG tip. Repair still came out great but this would have made it easier.
15 years owning an exhaust shop and I wish I had you as an employee!... WOW, 99% of times that huge gas nozzle hurt ue but we hated the spatter etc...... Wish i knew then what I know now i guess!
You do want some sort of nozzle for flux core. Particularly if you’re new to welding, you’re going to find a lot of spatter on your torch end. While antispatter and nozzle gel works, it’s not perfect, so large BBs do weld themselves to the tip.
Just tried removing the shielding nozzle after watching this video... and yep, it was a mess! The weld was spattering all over the place, deep holes all over the bead... and then on my second attempt it ended up welding a big lump on the end of the tip. Had to grind it right back as it wouldn't break off. Put the nozzle back on and it was perfectly good again. Not sure about this "#1 Tip and Trick to Improve Flux Core Welding" at all.... haha.
Really good info thank you, i removed the shroud ages ago and thought doing so would be frowned upon by pro welders as the tip gets choked with spatter, now i know about anti spatter gel ill give it a try and im definitely having one of them nozzles makes it look legit
Flux core was actually my final setup. Ive been mig/tig/stick welding for around 12 years now for work. I have no need for those applications at home though, so flux is cheap and if you know what youre doing it can be as good as the rest. A little research goes a LONG way.
NICE SHORT VIDEO. very informative, especially the nozzle info and spray and gel. Knocks spots of of a lot of other videos. well done Worth a note, you can with an angle grinder, chop about half an inch off the standard mig nozzle, this protects a lot of the diffuser. and you can see more of the contactor..
Good info, thank-you. I've got a Mini Mig 130 E , and that nozzle broke off. It is not a threaded piece, and i didn't know what to do. YOU, sir, solved my ' problem '. It is a non-gas flux core machine, so i'll take that advice /info and apply it to my situation. Thanks, again ! Will try that paste.....
With it off or better yet with a flux core nozzle you can see your stick out distance better and then you won't ground out! I do agree with tacking, old timers would tack by simply contacting the nozzle to work piece and pull the trigger. For beginners it's easier to learn without.
Agree I welded a tip as soon as I shortened my standard nozzle. You get used to it providing a gap buffer. Put a new battery in my welding helmet and learn to re judge the distance and all will be good again.
my friend Welds for NASA and NASCAR his welds on stainless and aluminum are amazing he developed a gas shield to get extra saturation he also does aircraft stainless elbows
Always good policy to protect your gas hole form spatter balls! 🤣 Love your channel, my kid is in a joint high school-college welding program and I found myself very interested in learning the dark art, myself!
I got shot of my welding shroud along time ago and only use fluxcore and have never used expensive gas. Yours sincerely from the old qeer corrupt UK 🇬🇧
I'm no sure why in the world it took me so long to figure out that I can weld flux core much better without the gas nozzle foreskin . I welded gas dual shield in the trade for years and it just seemed normal to have it on when welding. some good points.
Flux core is the superior process over MIG. First, it's got the lowest entry fee of any process because you don't need the gas & bottle, & FC-only machines are cheaper than dual/multi-process machines. (Stay away from that black box from harbor freight.) 2d, it is far better for welding outdoors because there's no gas to blow away in the breeze. 3d, flux core provides better penetration than MIG. The only drawback, arguably, is the appearance of the bead. Flux core vs MIG is sort of the 6010 vs 6013 comparison in stick welding. Practice will improve FC bead appearance, but, if strength is the only concern, you'll get it done better with the flux core. That said, you'll likely hear many people say that flux core is the hot glue of welding. That is absolute garbage. Those are the people who don't cut and etch their welds to see which process is best. Run a T- joint with MIG on one diet and FC on the other. Then cut & etch it. You'll see an obvious difference in penetration on anything thick than, say, ⅛" steel.
@keltonwilt1499 yes, that's the one. It's okay for hobby stuff on thin material, but it doesn't like anything over ⅛". Very few settings options, and the duty cycle will have a guy drunk before the job is finished. For not too much more money, you could get into a titanium stick machine that will do far more for you. That said, the black box is great if you are just testing the hobby to see if you like welding. It lowers the entry fee and won't hurt too much if you decide that welding isn't your cha-cha. There is a good reason why those machines are so common in craigslist. They're the Honda Rebel of welders. But one, run it for a couple weeks, then upgrade to something that'll get you on the road.
Experienced welder here. If your new to this I would advise leaving the nozzle on till you learn to handle the gun.. it also protects the tip from touching the work... you can try but have lots of tips on hand!! When the tip touches the work area it arcks the tip and ruins it!! Also get some contact dip to dip the tip when its hot every once in awhile... I've welded alot in the field with flux core and once you learn the nozzle really doesn't matter to much. I like the tip protection it provides!!! You will see in time what I'm talking about? Good luck.. Wayne
@@wayneortmeier5352 Just tried removing the shielding nozzle after watching this video... and yep, it was a mess! The weld was spattering all over the place, deep holes all over the bead... and then on my second attempt it ended up welding a big lump on the end of the tip. Had to grind it right back as it wouldn't break off. Put the nozzle back on and it was perfectly good again. Granted I'm very new to welding (just started), but not at all sure about this "#1 Tip and Trick to Improve Flux Core Welding" at all.... haha.
Nozzle dip or spray is porosity in a can. Burn a couple of seconds weld on scrap to burn off the volatiles in the spray/dip. The need for it is eliminated if you keep your nozzle clean and smooth. Take the time before starting to dress any nicks out. No banging it on the work to get the spatter ring off. I never had any problem with using a full size nozzle, if there was a clearance problem, just slightly oval a standard nozzle with a hammer. Got my Journeyman Ship fitter card in 1976.
Edit: Source - I'm a trade qualified welder and metal fabricator. While this is convenient and makes it more simple for Gasless FCAW, be aware there is also Dual Shield FCAW which will require you keep the gas shroud on your gun and run the correct gas type for the particular weld you're trying to produce. Although I have one of my home welders set up with Gasless FCAW, with no shroud on for quick little jobs around my property, I would suggest leaving it on purely because once you've learnt with the shroud on, you can pick up any MIG/MAG/Dual Shielded type welder and not have to figure it out all over again. Learn how to do it the correct way, then once you have it nailed, then figure out what tricks/hacks you can get away with and on what jobs!! If you do this from day one, you might save time on cleaning your nozzle, but waste more money and time swapping out your contact tips because you keep touching it on your work piece. Your gas shroud is also your insulator.
The regular MIG nozzle is good for tack welding without a hood since it's not hot with the trigger pulled. Just put the nozzle against the weld point, close your eyes and squeeze the trigger.
This is a decent idea for people who plan on exclusively using FCAW. That being said, maybe just get used to good positioning instead. Once you get enough time under the hood you dont even need to watch the puddle that closely
is nozzle gel the same as flux for soldering? It looks and smells identical. I ask because I only have a little bit of Noz Dip but I got a shit tonne of Soldering flux
nov 2 2023 caught yur remqrk about having a reverse polarity switch. and lacking one means its only flux core. my lincoln 140 has no such switch. so now i know it is not upgradeable to tig with a gas bottle and a different hose. eager to try the nozzle shield removal. its warming back up to the 60's here in colorado near pueblo. and that means its welding - weather outside
THANKS FOR THE TIPS. WAY BACK BEFORE A LONG TIME AGO, WE USED OUR CUTTING TORCH WITH PROPANE AND OXYGEN SOME BORAX SOAP FOR FLUX, BRASS ROD, OR HAYWIRE TO WELD UP JUST ABOUT ANYTHING.
Is the copper tip actually supposed to protrude beyond the outer nozzle? I’ve always liked it inside just a little. To protect it. I always thought it was supposed to be this way.maybe I should try it your way. Nothing worse than the wire getting stuck at the very end of the tip. Then you spend the next ten minutes fixing it. Maybe I learned something today?😀
So didn't know about the flux core only nozzles...need one of them cause when your welding crap material most of the time it destroys the gun not that i think it will protect the bits that aren't replaceable (damn splatter) and spatter spray is great when its viable. Everything is an investment and if you can afford the extra great, but sadly some of us live in a cents/dollar world where even spending $20 for a better finish is feeding myself Thanks for upload
I cannot find a single video on TH-cam where someone is flux-core welding 24-gauge square tubing. I see tons of videos of folks welding steel plates though. I suspect that flux-welding thin gauge tubing is beyond the skills of most so few (if anyone) is doing it. I'd be forever grateful if you could show how it's done. I have a gazebo made of 24-gauge square tubing and I'm going to have to replace quite a few railings. I sure could use some tips on how to get it done correctly.
I bought 125 cu ft tank of 25/75 for my 150 Amp MIG in April. It went down to $55.00. This is exchange tank and includes state tax, city tax, DOT safety charges, dog catcher fee’s, etc. I was shock and placed the invoice in my file cabinet and looked a previous cost. The highest was 2020 Covid price. I am retired and just wanted to weld my Stainless Steel exhaust to my LS engine in my own 67 C10 PU. This my build and last project, so not going to buy a TIG. Note: Guys / Gals, your first tank is higher because you pay a rental-return fee. Plus product. You get your money back when returning if empty of part full. Argon + SS wire in your MIG is fine with a correct regulator and just a small tank. Unless you plan on purging O2 from your pipe to prevent sugaring inside. It’s exhaust, I think a sugaring issue is not on my radar. It not milk, it’s exhaust. Thanks for sharing!
you miss the main point of flux core, its cleaner (the flux) burns and creates a gas that then cleans the weld like a MIG would. Other then some slag from the burnt flux or spatter from the thin wall wire they are the same strength and by matching the correct gauge wire can reduce spatter as well as reversing polarity. You can make a .30 solid mig wire spatter with a 220v welder maxed out
Just wondering, let's say I'm welding a 10 feet long metal, which one consumes more electrode, stick welding or mig? Which one will do the job cheaper( cost of electrode only, gas for mig excluded)?
If you are new and you cant see your puddle. Adjusting your head or arms to get a better view. Get bettter lighting. When you get more funds get a more comfortable welding shield. (Not necessarily more expensive) Practice. Practice. Practice.
Is Flux Core as good as MiG for the sole purpose of extracting broken bolts from aluminum blocks? Looking for a setup for that sole purpose... need a bit of direction...can you build up a broken bolt by layering up flux core bead or do you run into problem with slag etc...?
Without the nozzle or by using a flux core nozzle you can see that distance better. If you are still contacting the work piece you need to work on your stick out.
Just tried removing the shielding nozzle after watching this video... and it was a mess! The weld was spattering all over the place, deep holes all over the bead... and then on my second attempt it ended up welding a big lump on the end of the tip. Had to grind it right back as it wouldn't break off. Put the nozzle back on and it was perfectly good again. Not sure about this "#1 Tip and Trick to Improve Flux Core Welding" at all.... haha.
I have flux core gun like the one you showed first. Sometimes the trigger sticks and wire feeds out on it's own and I have to bang the tip to stop it. I have taken the it apart and it still sticks any Suggestions?
It was from a fab shop. It was the "drop" from a larger plate. If you has steel fabrication shops if they have any "drop" they want to get rid of some will just give it to you for free.
Can you change the spring coiled diffuser to one threaded? Very important. I can’t get a “slip on” nozzle here in Denmark, only ones with thread. Please
MM, I have the same Vulcan 220 as you. I need an "O" ring for my gun cable lead where it fits into the machine. I have looked everywhere and i can't find one. Can you give am an idea where to look?
Wow!!! This is a game changer! Here I've been welding with flux-core for 25 years and never thought to remove the gas shield. Excellent!!!
are you serious?
The downside is when you weld 350- 400 amps it gets very bright without the shield.
Got to love it when flux only welders come with a gas shield.
I've been welding 2.5yrs at home. Just now grabed som C02. Thinking its gona be so so nice not having that cloud running in my nose, but I'm not looking forward to the fater tip.
I was told this a while back from a welder friend and it does make a big difference. The other thing he said was get some scrap steel and practice, practice, practice......Good advice as always in your posts, keep up the good work.
Right on!
as someone who took the welding class high school and is almost 40 and even started a welding company, dont do this. what hes saying does make sense, but why get used to welding without a nozzle then when you switch to mig you have to learn that process with the nozzle. the nozzle does a few things and its going to depend on what youre welding. generally speaking the nozzle will recess the tip and if you take your wire cutters and trim it off flush with the nozzle youre stick out distance is the same all the time and you dont have to worry about holding the nozzle off the work piece as its also an insulator and will prevent you from grounding out the tip along with protecting the tip from the majority of spatter. also some people will grind the nozzle back so the tip is flush with the nozzle and it does the same thing as hes talking about and it works with mig also so theres no new learning curve and no need to buying a special nozzle. and be careful with the anti spatter and gel as it just adds to the toxins youre breathing in while welding.
Spot on' the guys a clown i'd like to see him in a Fab' shop with a 600 Amp Miller to work with ......
Rubbish. I manage an LNG/aviation/oil/mining company and have 200 men under me. What this video is suggesting is completely correct. Skilled welders swap processes whenever required from TIG pressure welding on 20,000kpa gas compressor pipelines, to 1.6mm flux core on outdoor mining hoppers, to short-arc gas mig. Your excuse shows your own experience shortfalls, and your low expectations of others.
@@leso204can't fathom the difference here? 😂
@@gw5436 hey jackass he wasnt talking about skilled welders. and you mention TIG which doesnt apply to this but also requires gas, and 1.6MM is a welding rod, the only thing that would apply would be the MIG but for some reason youre adding gas into it when short-arc mig is the proper term and the G in mig already stands for gas. so im not really sure what youre trying to say but just stay in your office
Wow that’s a lot of words too bad I ain’t reading them
I weld every so often and learned that trick removing the noz soon after starting. I bought the Lincoln 225 that uses fluxcore wire and very happy with what I can do with it.
Right on!
I tossed my nozzle from my flux core many years ago. Completely changed the game. All the nozzle did was fill up with slag and flux and it was a pain to clean it so often because it just got clogged up very quickly.
Thanks for this. So simple, and I literally just figured it out for myself. I was struggling massively to keep sight of my puddle. Took the MIG tip off, and all my welds improved dramatically. Yes, I'm new to welding.
Right on, thanks!
Same here!
Same here. My welds did improve but I still suck.
I figured this out shortly after buying my Mig welder. I got frustrated and gently removed the nozzle and gingerly tossed it to the side. When I couldn't find it "because it was windy and the wind carried it too far" I just continued without it and my welds improved instantly.
I've got a cheap Mastercraft flux-core welder I picked up years ago. Plugs into 120, which makes it very handy to lug around to where I'm working (I also don't have a 240v line in the garage). One knob for feed speed and just high/low voltage and amperage switches. One day I want to invest in a multi-process welder (being able to TIG-weld aluminum would be very handy my repairs as well), but even what I have now has been very valuable for doing repairs for my landscaping equipment and my trailer. Even at the hobbiest level, having a basic flux-core welder is a good investment!
I used to do ornamental welding... hand rails, decorative balcony rails, Gates etc... 1/2" X 1/2" pickets, 1 1/2" posts (smaller welds) and with what I'm going to recommend I also did
4" X 4" X 1/4" posts as well as heavier welds too.
0.030 welding wire really helped me to put down really nice/beautiful/"ornamental welds" that I literally painted over after only wire wheeling the dingle balls off. (press read more)
A bit slower for the larger welds yes but the welds were full pen and I came to prefer welding downhill rather than uphill as the smaller wire gave me the needed puddle control to do so. If you're used to 0.045 you won't like it at first but keep with it for just a little while to find the new wire speed and heat adjustments and you'll come to appreciate the provided control and versatility of .030 flex core wire. It was also much better for cast iron welding! .030 flux core wire came to be all that I used (95% of the time), contaminants floated out better too.
Very Pure welds and with proper penetration! BION
If changing from gas wire to flux core wire or vice versa... """don't forget to reverse the welders polarity"""! Admittedly most of you won't like 0.030 flux core wire because it's a little slower but I loved it!
Dudes... the welds don't take long, it's the prep and the set up that takes the time and I had no weld grinding to do when I finished, just dingle ball removal with a wire wheel so... does the "project" actually take longer? No!
0.030 flux core... try it! Don't forget the 0.030 welder tips and a 0.030 roller wheel for your welder too. Both are very inexpensive and "super-simple to exchange" Cheers: Robert
Good prep work takes time, but results in much better welds, especially when you're repairing something that's been used and abused in the elements for years instead of working with fresh stock. Getting down to bare metal when repairing a trailer is always a huge hassle, but necessary if you don't want the weld to fail on you.
And a generator if you can afford it because extension cords to the fence line reduce arc power and can cause " black popcorn buildup" from weak electricity supply . A voltage drop or something on long extension cords .
I think a 10 pound roll could be made onto a spool rack on the back of one of these little welders and drill a hole in the back wall of the welder in line with the wire feed roller and feed the wure through a plastic tube
Can't believe there's still new stuff to learn here. Bits and Tricks. THANKS!
Right on!
The best tip ever for a beginner, this was a life saver for me.
Glad it was helpful!
I love that nozzle gel. It keeps my hair just the way I style it.
Haha, and holds throughout the day too!
*I'm A Dapper Dan Man!!!*
Excellent advice. Just FCAW welded a 22g sheet panel repair on my sons car. Wish I had seen this first and removed the MIG tip. Repair still came out great but this would have made it easier.
A couple old timer welders I know will cut back a nozzle to use for flux core. It protects the gas ports but makes flux core welding easier.
15 years owning an exhaust shop and I wish I had you as an employee!... WOW, 99% of times that huge gas nozzle hurt ue but we hated the spatter etc...... Wish i knew then what I know now i guess!
You do want some sort of nozzle for flux core. Particularly if you’re new to welding, you’re going to find a lot of spatter on your torch end. While antispatter and nozzle gel works, it’s not perfect, so large BBs do weld themselves to the tip.
Just tried removing the shielding nozzle after watching this video... and yep, it was a mess! The weld was spattering all over the place, deep holes all over the bead... and then on my second attempt it ended up welding a big lump on the end of the tip. Had to grind it right back as it wouldn't break off. Put the nozzle back on and it was perfectly good again. Not sure about this "#1 Tip and Trick to Improve Flux Core Welding" at all.... haha.
Really good info thank you, i removed the shroud ages ago and thought doing so would be frowned upon by pro welders as the tip gets choked with spatter, now i know about anti spatter gel ill give it a try and im definitely having one of them nozzles makes it look legit
I just bought a flux core tip for my welder it was like $8 and works great.
Exactly, they make a tip specifically to protect the parts that need protection while allowing visibility.
Flux core was actually my final setup. Ive been mig/tig/stick welding for around 12 years now for work. I have no need for those applications at home though, so flux is cheap and if you know what youre doing it can be as good as the rest. A little research goes a LONG way.
Right on! You can probably flux weld with your eyes closed!
NICE SHORT VIDEO. very informative, especially the nozzle info and spray and gel. Knocks spots of of a lot of other videos. well done
Worth a note, you can with an angle grinder, chop about half an inch off the standard mig nozzle, this protects a lot of the diffuser. and you can see more of the contactor..
Right on, thanks!
Great tip (no pun intended). I will definitely try that since I have so much trouble seeing my welds.
Aerosol olive oil cooking spray can be substituted for anti-spatter spray.
Ask me how I know...
I saw on another channel that they wrap Teflon tape over the gas holes and threads, which is much cheaper and has superb visibility.
Good info, thank-you. I've got a Mini Mig 130 E , and that nozzle broke off. It is not a threaded piece, and i didn't know what to do. YOU, sir, solved my ' problem '. It is a non-gas flux core machine, so i'll take that advice /info and apply it to my situation. Thanks, again ! Will try that paste.....
Leave the nozzle on unless you like buying contact tips !!The nozzel protects from grounding
And also controls arc length and makes
Tacking easier.
With it off or better yet with a flux core nozzle you can see your stick out distance better and then you won't ground out! I do agree with tacking, old timers would tack by simply contacting the nozzle to work piece and pull the trigger. For beginners it's easier to learn without.
Agree I welded a tip as soon as I shortened my standard nozzle. You get used to it providing a gap buffer. Put a new battery in my welding helmet and learn to re judge the distance and all will be good again.
Great tips, I bought 3 items after watching this video. Thanks
Right on, good deal!
my friend Welds for NASA and NASCAR his welds on stainless and aluminum are amazing he developed a gas shield to get extra saturation he also does aircraft stainless elbows
Always good policy to protect your gas hole form spatter balls! 🤣 Love your channel, my kid is in a joint high school-college welding program and I found myself very interested in learning the dark art, myself!
Right on, good luck!
I think everyone smoked Joints in high school
I got shot of my welding shroud along time ago and only use fluxcore and have never used expensive gas. Yours sincerely from the old qeer corrupt UK 🇬🇧
I'm no sure why in the world it took me so long to figure out that I can weld flux core much better without the gas nozzle foreskin . I welded gas dual shield in the trade for years and it just seemed normal to have it on when welding. some good points.
Right on, thanks!
Flux core is the superior process over MIG. First, it's got the lowest entry fee of any process because you don't need the gas & bottle, & FC-only machines are cheaper than dual/multi-process machines. (Stay away from that black box from harbor freight.) 2d, it is far better for welding outdoors because there's no gas to blow away in the breeze. 3d, flux core provides better penetration than MIG. The only drawback, arguably, is the appearance of the bead. Flux core vs MIG is sort of the 6010 vs 6013 comparison in stick welding. Practice will improve FC bead appearance, but, if strength is the only concern, you'll get it done better with the flux core. That said, you'll likely hear many people say that flux core is the hot glue of welding. That is absolute garbage. Those are the people who don't cut and etch their welds to see which process is best. Run a T- joint with MIG on one diet and FC on the other. Then cut & etch it. You'll see an obvious difference in penetration on anything thick than, say, ⅛" steel.
Black box? You mean a 170 Chicago electric? What’s wrong with it?
@keltonwilt1499 yes, that's the one. It's okay for hobby stuff on thin material, but it doesn't like anything over ⅛". Very few settings options, and the duty cycle will have a guy drunk before the job is finished. For not too much more money, you could get into a titanium stick machine that will do far more for you. That said, the black box is great if you are just testing the hobby to see if you like welding. It lowers the entry fee and won't hurt too much if you decide that welding isn't your cha-cha. There is a good reason why those machines are so common in craigslist. They're the Honda Rebel of welders. But one, run it for a couple weeks, then upgrade to something that'll get you on the road.
I was told otherwise by an old head regardless if fcaw or gmaw if done properly it has the same tensile strength
Wow great video I am a new flux core welder I will definitely use your advice when I try welding again.thanks .👍
Experienced welder here. If your new to this I would advise leaving the nozzle on till you learn to handle the gun.. it also protects the tip from touching the work... you can try but have lots of tips on hand!! When the tip touches the work area it arcks the tip and ruins it!! Also get some contact dip to dip the tip when its hot every once in awhile... I've welded alot in the field with flux core and once you learn the nozzle really doesn't matter to much. I like the tip protection it provides!!! You will see in time what I'm talking about? Good luck..
Wayne
@@wayneortmeier5352 Just tried removing the shielding nozzle after watching this video... and yep, it was a mess! The weld was spattering all over the place, deep holes all over the bead... and then on my second attempt it ended up welding a big lump on the end of the tip. Had to grind it right back as it wouldn't break off. Put the nozzle back on and it was perfectly good again. Granted I'm very new to welding (just started), but not at all sure about this "#1 Tip and Trick to Improve Flux Core Welding" at all.... haha.
Nozzle dip or spray is porosity in a can. Burn a couple of seconds weld on scrap to burn off the volatiles in the spray/dip. The need for it is eliminated if you keep your nozzle clean and smooth. Take the time before starting to dress any nicks out. No banging it on the work to get the spatter ring off. I never had any problem with using a full size nozzle, if there was a clearance problem, just slightly oval a standard nozzle with a hammer. Got my Journeyman Ship fitter card in 1976.
I'll have to try that out. You figure if it comes with the welder it is a needed part!
I know, right! Thanks!
I'm a begging welder, if I am tack welding only such as on sheet metal, would you use the spatter spray and nozzle gel? Thanks for your comments.
Edit: Source - I'm a trade qualified welder and metal fabricator.
While this is convenient and makes it more simple for Gasless FCAW, be aware there is also Dual Shield FCAW which will require you keep the gas shroud on your gun and run the correct gas type for the particular weld you're trying to produce.
Although I have one of my home welders set up with Gasless FCAW, with no shroud on for quick little jobs around my property, I would suggest leaving it on purely because once you've learnt with the shroud on, you can pick up any MIG/MAG/Dual Shielded type welder and not have to figure it out all over again.
Learn how to do it the correct way, then once you have it nailed, then figure out what tricks/hacks you can get away with and on what jobs!! If you do this from day one, you might save time on cleaning your nozzle, but waste more money and time swapping out your contact tips because you keep touching it on your work piece. Your gas shroud is also your insulator.
I wrap my nozzle in al foil, works.
Simple and effective, I like it!
I used all my tin foil on my hat
Thanks. I was about to ask about foil.
I may try that. I really dislike the plastic flux cover bs. They should be aluminum or something cause they melt too easy…
Foiled again!
The regular MIG nozzle is good for tack welding without a hood since it's not hot with the trigger pulled. Just put the nozzle against the weld point, close your eyes and squeeze the trigger.
Not good advice
Did you try it!
Did you mean not hot without the trigger pulled?
I did that for years and got my face and neck burnt all the time, now I pay for it in skin damage, bad practices will catch up to you in the end.
1:30 "Only purpose is to protect the gas holes from spatter balls" LMAO
I like the plastic nozzle for flux core it gives the contact tip more longevity.
In tight places it keeps the end from burning up, hince shorter gun life, unless you like buying new gun's
This is a decent idea for people who plan on exclusively using FCAW. That being said, maybe just get used to good positioning instead. Once you get enough time under the hood you dont even need to watch the puddle that closely
Thanks a bunch for the tips about the tips. It was very helpful thanks again....Have a GOD blessed rest of the year
Great tips thanks, on spatter, how big an area of spatter should I expect, I have very limited space and that's my biggest fear
I'd say maybe a couple feet all around.
And the #1 tip switching from MIG to FCAW - confirm you have the machine set to recommended polarity
How?
You can also kind of "walk the cup'
with the nozzle or just use it as a slide on 90°
It's crazy that this is such a simple rule applied to flux core but alot of people still do flux with the mig nozzle
I know, right!
Not laughing at you but that's what came with my flux core welder. You can't even add gas to mine. Glad I watched this video.
is nozzle gel the same as flux for soldering? It looks and smells identical. I ask because I only have a little bit of Noz Dip but I got a shit tonne of Soldering flux
Not sure, try it out!
nov 2 2023
caught yur remqrk about having a reverse polarity switch. and lacking one means its
only flux core.
my lincoln 140 has no such switch.
so now i know it is not upgradeable to tig with a gas bottle and a different hose.
eager to try the nozzle shield removal. its warming back up to the 60's
here in colorado near pueblo. and that means its welding - weather outside
THANKS FOR THE TIPS. WAY BACK BEFORE A LONG TIME AGO, WE USED OUR CUTTING TORCH WITH PROPANE AND OXYGEN SOME BORAX SOAP FOR FLUX, BRASS ROD, OR HAYWIRE TO WELD UP JUST ABOUT ANYTHING.
My friends Dad always mocked the younger generations for not using "the one and only true welding process" gas welding.
gas welding skills are the base for Mig, Tig and stick, if you can master gas you can master anything. he was correct.
Just found your channel. I gotta say, your putting out fantastic content and it's been fun to watch. Keep it up!
What great hints. I teach kids about welding and being able to see what you're doing is a game changer!!!
If you're using Flux core without the gas shield, dip an acid brush in anti-spatter and spread it on everything the nozzle covered
Is the copper tip actually supposed to protrude beyond the outer nozzle? I’ve always liked it inside just a little. To protect it. I always thought it was supposed to be this way.maybe I should try it your way. Nothing worse than the wire getting stuck at the very end of the tip. Then you spend the next ten minutes fixing it. Maybe I learned something today?😀
Right on!
awesome! I never herd of spatter spray or nozzle gel. I'm going to welder supply tomorrow!
Right on!
Hello! You can see the welding area very well. What mask or filter do you use?
Any auto darkening helmet should do.
Great vid, all useful content, no filler BS!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks, happy welding! 😀
So didn't know about the flux core only nozzles...need one of them cause when your welding crap material most of the time it destroys the gun not that i think it will protect the bits that aren't replaceable (damn splatter) and spatter spray is great when its viable.
Everything is an investment and if you can afford the extra great, but sadly some of us live in a cents/dollar world where even spending $20 for a better finish is feeding myself
Thanks for upload
I took the nozzle off mine at home years ago it is only there to shield the gas and i never use gas at home only at work.
I cannot find a single video on TH-cam where someone is flux-core welding 24-gauge square tubing. I see tons of videos of folks welding steel plates though. I suspect that flux-welding thin gauge tubing is beyond the skills of most so few (if anyone) is doing it.
I'd be forever grateful if you could show how it's done. I have a gazebo made of 24-gauge square tubing and I'm going to have to replace quite a few railings. I sure could use some tips on how to get it done correctly.
Thanks for the nozzle tip tomorrows job
I bought 125 cu ft tank of 25/75 for my 150 Amp MIG in April. It went down to $55.00. This is exchange tank and includes state tax, city tax, DOT safety charges, dog catcher fee’s, etc. I was shock and placed the invoice in my file cabinet and looked a previous cost. The highest was 2020 Covid price. I am retired and just wanted to weld my Stainless Steel exhaust to my LS engine in my own 67 C10 PU. This my build and last project, so not going to buy a TIG.
Note: Guys / Gals, your first tank is higher because you pay a rental-return fee. Plus product. You get your money back when returning if empty of part full. Argon + SS wire in your MIG is fine with a correct regulator and just a small tank. Unless you plan on purging O2 from your pipe to prevent sugaring inside. It’s exhaust, I think a sugaring issue is not on my radar. It not milk, it’s exhaust.
Thanks for sharing!
I learned to mig weld in 1978. There was nozzle jell used back then.
Right on!
This came with the instructions on my Lincoln 30 years ago.
Right on!
you miss the main point of flux core, its cleaner (the flux) burns and creates a gas that then cleans the weld like a MIG would. Other then some slag from the burnt flux or spatter from the thin wall wire they are the same strength and by matching the correct gauge wire can reduce spatter as well as reversing polarity. You can make a .30 solid mig wire spatter with a 220v welder maxed out
Just wondering, let's say I'm welding a 10 feet long metal, which one consumes more electrode, stick welding or mig? Which one will do the job cheaper( cost of electrode only, gas for mig excluded)?
That is the life long welder question. I've yet to see a good video showing that.
If you are new and you cant see your puddle. Adjusting your head or arms to get a better view. Get bettter lighting. When you get more funds get a more comfortable welding shield. (Not necessarily more expensive) Practice. Practice. Practice.
Is Flux Core as good as MiG for the sole purpose of extracting broken bolts from aluminum blocks? Looking for a setup for that sole purpose... need a bit of direction...can you build up a broken bolt by layering up flux core bead or do you run into problem with slag etc...?
"Spatter Balls" 😂😂 great video thx for the advice.
When I bought my mig years ago it came with both nozzles and silicone spray works just as good as the spatter spray but cheeper
Silicon works good too.
The gas flow nizzle can prevent the copper tip from bendind and breaking in transit .
Thank you for the useful advise and links
My pleasure!
Any recommendations of generator size I would want to buy for this? I really don't want to use household lines for it.
3000 Watt for just minimum settings. 4000 to 5000 if you want to to any thicker material. (Thicker than 1/8")
I use a TIG welding nozzle which slips on my Lincoln Handi-MIG quite easily.
Good to know!
Cooking spray works great as a anti spatter spray it’s a lot cheaper and you can buy it in bulk at grocery stores
That's actually some helpful info. Thanks friend.
Right on!
Great video and great advice as usual. I’ve learned so much from you and a couple other guys on here already.
Much appreciated!
The nozzle can prevent the tip from arching out especially for learners until such time as they learn to float the tip.
Without the nozzle or by using a flux core nozzle you can see that distance better. If you are still contacting the work piece you need to work on your stick out.
@@-DIYPRO- Exactly what I said.
good vid.. right to the point and no F$%^& dizzy music! bravo to you sir
"protect your gas-hole from spatterballs" my new shirt." Nozzle jell"
On a shirt! that's a great idea!
My Harley flux core rig came with a mig nozzle. It will be leaving shortly. 😀 Eric.
Right on!
Just tried removing the shielding nozzle after watching this video... and it was a mess! The weld was spattering all over the place, deep holes all over the bead... and then on my second attempt it ended up welding a big lump on the end of the tip. Had to grind it right back as it wouldn't break off. Put the nozzle back on and it was perfectly good again. Not sure about this "#1 Tip and Trick to Improve Flux Core Welding" at all.... haha.
Yea this is great for newbies. If you are experienced with the nozzle then by all means keep it on.
Thanks for the demo sir i'll try it for my nxt project...
Any chance of you trying out the primeweld stick 160? Would like to get your pros and cons. Love the videos. Thanks
I'll have to add that one to the list.
Wow! This a huge help. Thanks!
I started doing this 2 years ago
I put heat shrink rap over the copper part of the nosel .
>> heat shrink rap
That flux core nozzle protects the threads from spatter . So, is it necessary for welding , technically no, but it does protect the equipment.
I have flux core gun like the one you showed first. Sometimes the trigger sticks and wire feeds out on it's own and I have to bang the tip to stop it. I have taken the it apart and it still sticks any Suggestions?
Where did you get the cool round welding plate?
It was from a fab shop. It was the "drop" from a larger plate. If you has steel fabrication shops if they have any "drop" they want to get rid of some will just give it to you for free.
I have used that anti splatter before and I swear it's just window cleaner. Even spraying water on the part would help with the splatter balls.
Even with low hydrogen rods?
I need a advice. I have HFT titanium 125 and my wire is getting stuck in and not pushing it to weld. What do I do wrong?
Great tips thanks man!
Right on!
Wat other kind of wire can u use on an eazy 100 Chicago MiG welder I just bout one but it didn't come with all the papers that come with it
Can you change the spring coiled diffuser to one threaded? Very important. I can’t get a “slip on” nozzle here in Denmark, only ones with thread. Please
Ups. Just bought the Arccaptain 200
Sorry haven't ever tried. The Arcaptain is a good one! Have fun welding!
Thanks for the Tips.
MM, I have the same Vulcan 220 as you. I need an "O" ring for my gun cable lead where it fits into the machine. I have looked everywhere and i can't find one. Can you give am an idea where to look?
Very informative and explained simply. Will definitely look into nozzle gel.
No name brand Pam frying spray oil works just as good & is cheap ..... Will not catch fire when welding and no diggle/splatter berries.😁
I DIED WHEN YOU REALIZED YOU SAID SPATTER BALLS 🤣🤣😂😂😛
Watch out, they'll come up and bite you!
Love my cheap flux core welder from Amazon