One thing that I would like to add as an electrician. “It’s a much better approach” (referring to using a pigtail) The reason you want to use a pigtail is because it keeps that specific outlet separate from the ones down the line. If you ever have this specific outlet burn out, the other outlets on the circuit would remain functional because they have a connection point at the wire nut, not in the outlet alone. For electricians coming over to fix the issue, it will save you money and time, when they can troubleshoot the one outlet, rather than the entire line of outlets trying to find which outlet is the bad outlet. Rather than just having one bad outlet that can easily be picked out and replaced. I ran into this situation when I helped a neighbor. The outlet closest to his front door was not working, checked voltage at the panel and the voltage was good, I then went back inside, and checked voltage on the outlet on the OPPOSITE side of the wall! No power either. I opened that outlet, as it was the closest to the panel in that room. Sure enough, that wire was all corroded and the neutral push in location was melted and burned. I replaced the outlet and added a pigtail. His Christmas lights were back on. This took me a very short time to locate and fix, even when the outlet in question was never even opened. I could have opened all the outlets in the room to figure out the issue and cost him much more money. Also, you should pull test your wires once you place your wire nuts on. I also, in my opinion, would never pre twist the wires before placing a wire nut. It’s more of a personal preference, I’m sure they are both fine, but you should always pull test. Sometimes the wires just slip out and can cause issues. Good on you for tightening both screws so they don’t have such a wide profile, very common mistake people make. I never use the push in method. I’m not a piece worker, so I’m sure it’s much faster, but ultimate far less superior than the screw. (Even with the push in method you need to tighten the screws, those are still live once that circuit is up and running. If this video is for DIY’ers you should always recommend turning the breaker off, I noticed that you never touched on that at all in the video. I think that about raps it up. Good video, hope this helps someone.
I just saw this video. Ive been an electrician for over 45 years and have seen all of the mistakes that can be made. I am so glad to see a young person going out of their way to put the correct information out there and take the advise of other possibly more senior professionals. Thank you and keep putting the correct information out there.
75 here, and have built and wired a few houses, learned a lot by watching this guy. I've always wondered about the push holes. They don't have as much contact with the inner core of the outlet to add extra loads down the line. Esp on a 14 gage wire with 15 amp breaker. I've been guilty long time ago about forcing 12 gage wire into those holes, until I spent a sleepless night wondering if I could cause a fire hazard for my kids.
@@donaldhinson7144 Pay attention! John Harold said he had seen all of the mistakes that can be made in his 45+ years as an electrician so obviously he DID catch the mistakes and was glad of the effort being made to educate the DIY'ers (and as well as those electricians taking potentially dangerous shortcuts whether within code or not) of best electrical wiring practices.
I worked for over 20 years as a plumber/ handyman. I was constantly replacing receptacles that had charred a bit and almost every one was using push in connectors. It becomes even more dangerous on buildings wired in aluminum, like mobile homes. Those push ins make a very small connection so oxidation has more of an effect as does over draw
Hope you realized not all receptacles are made for Aluminum wire. Some are rated for both, and some aren't. Being a Electrician I can't tell you how many plugs and switches I've changed because people don't know what their doing.
I worked as an electricians helper with the possibility of an apprenticeship back in the 1970's. The boss told us not to worry about the ground wire in receptacles and we were joining aluminum wire to copper wire. All he was interested in was getting the job done as quickly as possible. That was in Woodstock Ontario Canada and surrounding area.
Im not an electrician....but way back over 50 years ago our high school had excellent tech classes. Our electric shop instructor was a crusty old englishman....we spent what seemed an eternity on making perfect shaped connections....had to look like a cup holder hook. The connections had to be tight....he inspected to copper to make sure you hadnt nicked or marred it in any way.. Ive never forgotten ...thank you Mr. Edwards.
Good workmenship is paramount. Back then, inspectors would eyeball how well the wire was stripped and would not sign off sloppy wire stripping if it nicked the copper almost on a microscopic level. But lots of these techniques have gone away for quick and dirty expediency current workforce policy’s now trending to use.
it's not that important but it's definitely better for more surface area to touch the entire screw terminal. people often load down outlets and draw serious amperage. you don't want it over heating.. another reason i hate push in terminals.
@@chuckholmes2075 Thanks for reply.... for sure we were a bunch of absolutely clueless 17 year olds. I think he wanted to instill a work ethic based on care and detail hoping down the road it would serve us well. Most our instructors in tech were that way ....
Great video! Remembering back to decades ago spending summers working as a helper with my dear old dad, an electrician. It seems he taught me well. Screws in, never backstab, always pigtail. I still adhere to that. My medical office had all the equipment in two rooms fail and my staff was at a loss. I checked each outlet along until I found a hot one. Going back to the last dead one, I opened it and saw a stab-in had broken, likely from constant wiggling as the receptacle was not tightened down. I still encounter an occasional splice box where a neutral is acting as a feed and even where two sets of black wires run through on different legs. I even got shocked touching a run of bx jacket in the attic and saw the prior homeowner had run circuits with lamp cord. Fun, fun, fun!
I am a retired journeyman electrician and I agree with you on all of your examples. I never used those "push in" type of electrical connections to the receptacle. I thought they were mechanically weak despite meeting the NEC codes. I always used the J-Hook way of connecting the wires and I always used the pigtail set up. I didn't like the idea of the receptacle sharing the loads from other circuit loads. A very well done video!
The only thing I would add is to hook the wire hook in the clockwise direction so the screw helps pull the hook in when tightening. I've seen a number of receptacles and switches wired with the hook in the wrong direction.
i am not an electrician, but ive done a few outlets in my home. i always make sure to buy the outlets that have the plate on the screw that clamps down and holds the wire in, no need to hook the wire around the screw. however, that plate is never on the green screw, so you do still need to hook that one. edit: you can see this at 4:40 in this video when it shows him removing the two hot wires from one screw.
@@darrellcurrier5571 tbh that plate is just to hold braided wire in .. since many people use that stuff ... solid core wire is best in those outlets but ALWAYS j bend your wire and ALWAYS wrap it so it gets pulled into the connector ... it ALSO provide strain relief ... very very minor but it does .. also the wire doesnt work loose over time and then short out ... yup houses shake and move wires ...
He doesn't say anything about hooking in the clockwise direction because he ends up using a different style receptacle in his example, but at 2:47, he does have a picture up with that recommendation.
I traind to always, 1- hook the wire clockwise around the screw to pull in the wire and 2- mount the receptacles ground up, so in case the plug is ever not entirely in the receptacle anything that could make contact does with ground.
@@yourname519 The problem with ground up is that nearly all of the flush mount plugs that I've run across, such as for refrigerators or washing machines, are designed to hang nicely from a ground-down oriented receptacle. With a ground up receptacle, you get an awkward up-and-over flip of the chord, which might even increase the likelihood of a loose connection.
I'm a Lic electrician....40yrs +......I ALWAYS pigtail Every rec outlet I install....Clean up & straighten ALL wires, Re-strip as needed, & pigtail with a QUALITY wirenut & NEATLY push all wires back into the box, & secure the rec outlet.....Nice & Tight, & Neat !!!
I can only speak for myself but the reason I pigtail every receptacle is because I don’t want the entire load of the circuit going through every receptacle. If they are pigtailed the circuit is continuous throughout the run and each outlet is tapped off of that independent of the total load. The neatness part is so that you can see what’s going on. The wires need to dissipate heat. If they’re all twisted and tangled together in the box the chance of a short circuit is greater the heat does not dissipate as well and it is difficult sometimes to get the required number of wires to fit well in the box. When I roughed in a box I always do it the same way exactly. I have my own business so I use the wire code I was taught by my mentors. It is important that everybody know the same code. One electrician can walk away from the box and another one can come in and see what is going on and know how to wire it simply by the way the first electrician left the box of everything is neat and done the same way every time.
@@henrywight4057 Can't speak to US code but the Canadian code mandates pigtails on the neutral. Something to do with a shared neutral on 120v circuits. You lose the neutral and the connected outlets can potentially see 240v.
Just saw your video using Wago connectors which would also be useful here. When just starting I was told there were 2 major rules for doing any type of electrical work - 1. Never wire anything that is hot and 2. Assume that everything you are wiring is hot. Based on that after I turn off the correct breaker, then use my non-contact voltage detector, as a final using a pair of insulated pliers - I force the black wire to touch ground to verify no current and then touch the black wire to touch the white wire to confirm someone didn't connect a neutral to a hot somewhere. Takes a little time, but on more than one occasion I was glad I did it that way.
Some great tips here, especially for people that have to come behind someone else's work! You didn't mention it but I noticed that you tucked the wires in with the nuts pointing up which is just a little bit more safe and helps keep stuff from falling into it. One tip I would like to add, especially for a box with so many wires, is to pre-bend the wires into an "S" or "U" shape. It requires less force to push in and pull out later and lessens some of the strain on your connections.
Your point is good. I have seen WAY too many boxes with tons of wires (sometimes too many for box fill) that look like a rats nest. Especially critical if using an older box that might be a bit shallow, and someone shoehorns in a GFI or dimmer.
I have seen some interesting comments over the years from people who both have conviction and at the same time are just simply wrong in their approach. Peter you might take the cake. Did you just recommend people can “whittle down” a 12 gauge wire? We are going to have to agree to disagree on all your recommendations. Be safe and maybe reconsider your approach to electrical.
@Peter Evans I am an electrician. I always tighten the unused screws on the receptacle. The box is usually plastic in houses but the ground wires in the box are usually bare. I removed receptacle covers and have seen these bare ground wires dangerously close to the side screws. If you are in commercial buildings the mud ring on the metal box is very close to the side screws. A real electrician sometimes has to pull out an attached receptacle while the circuit is still energized. Not recommended, but sometimes unavoidable. I have never, and I mean never, heard of or seen anyone whittle down an electrical conductor to fit into a stab lock.
@Peter Evans so this is the real reason why you're rambling!! It's just that you think that being an engineer you're better or somewhat above a non engineer. An electrician can now the same or even more things than you, you're not necessarily better just because you have a piece of paper that says you're an engineer.
Really appreciate that you're featuring advice from licensed electricians, and showing best practice. As the owner of three houses, always want to wire to better than code.
The code is written by trade professionals and updated every three years to require the use of some new product. You really dont need to be thinking about wiring BETTER than the codes. I mean, it's not like these are the guidelines for nursing homes which allow 1 nurse for 25 residents who all need care.
Yes keep in mind always never wire to the backs. Of a device. Ever the amps will pass thrue on path back to panel also if a wire can break and is dangerous
@@jeremyanderson3819 Well said. You can't really wire "better" than the code. It's a sort of nonsensical idea, since the book ("not for laymen":100) is a guidline for installations. You cant buy "better" NMB, or provide "extra" capacity to conductors, etc., because that would be a crummy, unworkmanlike install.
Thank you for this instructive video, well done. I'm not a pro, by any stretch of the imagination, but one thing I was taught many years ago, by a licensed electrician, was to use electrical tape and wrap it around the outlet, a couple of times, to cover the screws, and to do the same with each wire nut connection, as a safety measures. I've heard both pros and cons to this approach but when it comes to electricity I'll take all the safety precautions I can.
I was gonna add the same suggestion. If you do this, it should go without saying, please use a good quality electrical tape, not dollar store electrical tape and also keep in mind that even the best tape will get a bit dry and stiff after several years, so when working in the box go ahead and remove old dry brittle tape and wrap again with new.
I've lived in 1950s houses all my life and it seems that some combinations of outlets and boxes have far less clearance than others. I had one outlet on which, if I pushed the socket to the side hard enough, the hot screw would short to the metal box and needless to say, I wrapped that in tape. On the other hand, this is probably a non-issue with plastic boxes.
My new house had a number of wiring mistakes. The power for the septic was wired for 240V instead of 120V but that was fixed when the septic was hooked up. The builder provided a RV hookup but the electrician wired a 120V RV outlet to 240V and the inspector did not catch it and a lot of stuff was destroyed when I plugged my RV. The den had two outlets that were not hooked up and another outlet did not have a cover plate. The house passed the inspection so the city/county electrical inspector is as incompetent as the electrician was. The moral is never trust a contractor to do anything right and never rely on an inspection to insure safety. In other words if you want something done right do it yourself. I will add that I am 79 years old and I have never had a contractor do a job correctly in my entire life.
I agree 100%. Contractors are there to make money and will take as many shortcuts as possible at the homeowners expense. I'm sure the inspector never ever looked at it and just signed off.
I found a lot of sketchy wiring in my house. Some dangerous and some silly. The garage (compressor, freezer, openers, power-tool land) shares one breaker with the den (computer & Hi-Fi land). Romex through the siding, hiding wire-nuts, to power outdoor light fixtures. Beyond electrical, my rear brake-line burst from rust about a week after a state licensed inspection. Best not to be too trusting when it comes to life.
I am no certified electrician but I have wired a number of electrical outlets. However, your method makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the tip, and may God continue to bless you richly.
I'm a retired electrician! I was a residential ,and commercial service call electrician for 20 years. The things I've seen in homes, blew my mind! I also ran commercial and industrial jobs for many years.
I did a lot of residential wiring and repairs and I saw lots of bad wiring. I remember 2 apartment house that I refused to do any work for the owner. Told him they were firetraps and I didn't want my fingerprints on anything in the building.
DIY here and I learned something new again about box extenders. I've never seen them before and wish I had when doing some previous upgrades to a past trailer home. Looks like a great way to help prevent possible fires. Thanks for the tips.
Box extenders are great! There are also little plastic tabs that come in strips of six or eight. You tear off one to three of the tabs, fold them Z-fashion, and place them between the device ears and the box so that the device is not recessed back from the face plate. (A gap between the plate and the device is against code.) But the tabs do not correct the problem of a gap between the device and the wall. The extenders take care of both problems.
Great video and also I want to say thank you for being teachable! If we TH-camrs all take the advice of the licensed, more experience folks and then disseminate that information back to the viewers we'll all grow together as a community! I'm in the process of buying an old house and your videos along with the comments, have been very helpful in my planning.
As a carpenter for 35+ years, jack of all trades, master of none, I agree with all your recommendations 110%. I have done all of these on all remodeling projects and even my own home. Great content and thank you.
My dad was an industrial electrician. Always taught me to tightly twist the pigtail ends together, even scoring them with the lineman pliers before turning on the wire nut tightly. Then neatly fold the wires into the box. I keep a soft wood stick, like a paint stirrer, in my toolbox to help push the wires in and not damage the insulation. Through my many years of house renovations I have been amazed at some of the sloppy workmanship in receptacle & switch boxes... amazed because even those worked!
Worked, but usually have black scorched marks. One outlet I found last year in a 14 year old house, hot wires on light circuit were loosely twisted and no wire nut. The black wires were extra black about 1/2" from twist. The chandelier had 14 60w bulbs, so it was a significant load. Also, it was wired with 3 way switch and travelers, but homeowner friend had no knowledge of a 2nd switch for this entry light, nor could I find one. And this wasn't a cheap house.
I'll bet your dad also taught you to first connect the ground and get that flat to the back of the the box. I seen a guy put the ground on last and use the screws to force the receptacle. The ground was right there on the power side. Yup! He popped the breaker immediately. It was worth the extra 20 minutes to let him experience it to understand the full error.
This is a great channel! I just found it and already bookmarked several more to watch ASAP. As some others have mentioned, I really appreciate how you keep the video's "clean" from all the fancy sounds, background music or other elements that so often take away from the video. Sub'd!
You explain every issue, and the subset details, extremely well. My hope is that young marrieds who have just bought their first home will track your teaching closely. Great job!
I've been a Licensed electrician for 15 years, and I must say you absolutely nailed best practice on receptacle installations. I have shown apprentices the exact methods you used. Pre-twist wires, always use screw terminals, and pig-tail your connections. Great job.
I used to think the way you do... until I discovered Wagor Electrical Connectors. Those are the biggest innovation in electrical wiring EVER!!!!! Check em' out
@@davids7209 the Wagos with the actuated arms are okay, but a little large for device boxes in my opinion. The wago "quick connect" type are just as garbage as sticking a wire into the push connectors in the back of a receptacle. Look at how the connector engages the wire (a single tooth). Understand that that single tiny contact point is what your load current is flowing through, and why that type of connection often overheats and fails.
As a professional that did remodeling for over 4 decades, I can attest to the failure rate of the push in connections. Almost every time I was called about a smoking or arcing receptacle it was the push in that was at fault. I know it's easier to use, but I highly recommend anyone wiring receptacles or switches to use the screws on the sides. It makes for a much better connection and will give you some peace of mind about your work being done properly.
If they are so prone to failure then how do they pass UL? I'm assuming it is because people use them incorrectly more often, like not enough conductor exposed, or worn conductor inserted that doesn't make full connection? There could be selection bias here - more people using them are either in a hurry or amateurs and hence less careful. If you get the same people to use backwire connections they may make as many mistakes. Really I think if people seem to fail to use them correctly that often code should just be changed to outlaw them, or new failsafe ones designed. When you look at the design of UK outlets and plugs (standardized around the 1970s) it's amazing how primitive and unsafe the US standard ones are!
Homeowner here, but I can also attest to the failure of the "push-in" connectors (my electrician called it "back-stabbing"). The constant stress/strain on this particular (high-use) outlet finally caused one of the wires to pop out the back.
@@enmodo now why would anyone accept the opinion of the underwriters laboratory when you can depend on the opinions of random electricians on TH-cam lol?
For paying attention to detail and looks nice, have the screw slot on the face plate screw, running up and down to match the slots on the receptacle. Do this with switches as well. When you have a multi gang, having the screw slots running up and down like the receptacle/ toggle switches looks clean
Really? Sounds like OCD. Why not horizontal, nothing clean about switches or toilet handles? Torque till snug and not past when tightening gives no further turn. With plastic this lighter than metal plates. Ground at the top, wipe off that smiley face icon too.
Hello Scott...I just watched this Jan 2023...I need to replace a lot of outlets because they don't hold the male plugs anymore. I started in the kitchen, 20 Amp circuits, the first faceplate I removed, voila, the blank terminal screws were backed out, they are original. The house was built in 1998, I'm in TN. Thanks for this video and all the great info you put out.
Great vid. As a retired Master Electrical contractor from Boston, MA... this is one of the best vids showing how it should be done. Thank you and , if I ever saw one of my guys using push ins, he was gone.SOO many callbacks from them.
Just replaced burned receptacles wired w/push ins (tripped breaker repeatedly). Exposed wire issue - 1/8 - 3/16” w/burn marks - other receptacle in 3-way same issue! Wired by builder’s electrician. (I’m original owner of home).
Licensed NY electrician. Great video! I noticed the receptacle you replaced was fed with red wire. Since your audience might include non-professionals, you should point out that even though the circuit for that receptacle was off, there might be another circuit sharing that same neutral and the danger it poses. Again very good video.
@Michael Claypool This might be a multiwire branch circuit that @Veloci3 Twenty is referring to in passing. The multiwire branch circuit is a cheap and nasty way some electricians run two circuits with a single 4 conductor romex cable (like a 14/3). The two hots (red and black) go to a breaker each (on different bus bars), and the white is shared between the two circuits. While it is not against most codes, it is considered a "in code" bad practice by many and should be avoided as it might put too much load on the single neutral as well as creating a live wire situation (when one side is switched off and someone expects the white wire to be not carrying any load). This danger is real and occurs if the hot wires are moved in the breaker box so they are on the same wiring bus. A common mistake would be to put the two hot wires on a tandem breaker switch not knowing these wires are sharing a neutral. This is why the two wires in the breaker box need to be identified, connected to separate poles, and they need to have a tie between the switches so they are tripped simultaneously if one side goes. The only reason electricians use this is to save money on wire and labor on running one wire instead of 2 wires. a single length of 14/3 is cheaper than 2 lengths of 14/2.
@@DarkTouch Actually, at the big box stores there isn't a huge difference in price between buying 25 ft of 14/3 and buying 50 ft. of 14/2. As of today 25 ft. of 14/3 cost $25.68 at Lowe's. Compare that to 50 ft. of 14/2 for $27.98. So for $2.30 more you're effectively getting 25 ft. of 14/4 w 2 grounds. The extra wire can provide a required neutral in a three way switch box.
@@DarkTouch there's nothing wrong with it. Tie the two breakers together so if one trips, the other would as well. There would be nothing on the neutral if they're both open. I also like to label in the box, in case it isn't obvious, the two circuits share a neutral. Saves a conductor, ground, extra insulation, and a second run. That's my preference if it isn't going to be a high load receptacle or usage.
@@etherealrose2139 you are absolutely correct, and if you look closer there is no black wire present. Many higher end cities require a house to be in conduit, no romex allowed. Which in this case is what I believe is happening. They used a red wire due to the phase it is associated.
@@DarkTouch In a Edison circuit ( two hots one neutral ) when done correctly as in one hot on each "phase " it is impossible to overload the neutral . If you have 20 amps on one hot 0 amps on the other you then have 20 amps on the neutral if you then load the other hot lets say with 8 amps the neutral would have only 12 amps. - Two 15 amp loads the neutral would be 0 amps as current would divide by OHMS LAW .
I’m an electrician and I want to start with a big THANK YOU for hooking the wires and not stabbing them. That’s a pet peeve of mine and so is pigtailing receptacles. Their are only two things I would add; whenever I change or install a receptacle, I always use a 20A, and a safety wrap of tape on the terminal screws. 20 amp receptacles are not much more money and can take much more use. When I install receptacles, I pigtail them and wrap electrical tape to cover all the screws so no metal is exposed, THEN I splice them in with the wires in the box. Makes for a safer install with very little extra effort. Thank you.
@@timhick6 yessir. 12 gauge for 20 amp receptacles,14 gauge on 15 amp for lighting. That’s typical indoor lighting, not big, MH - or similar - lighting for outdoors. I’ve seen it done but I don’t like when lighting and power are on the same circuit. Penny wise and pound foolish.
Always great info. The twisting the wires before applying the wire nut is so important. I have had wires slide out of wire nuts in the way long ago past. Also, if u don’t pigtail the neutral, this disaster can happen and it happened to me. I was replacing a receptacle without turning the power off, and I cut the stabbed neutrals. Guess what happened next. Several receptacles downstream went 220. Burned up a TV, the transformer in the furnace and a couple of ceiling fans. The worst part was my reputation. They still remember it twenty years later. On that same note, if the power goes out, and u decide to back feed a generator into a 220 receptacle, B SURE TO HOOK UP THE GENERATOR NEUTRAL!!!! If u don’t, many if not all of the 110 receptacles will become 220 receptacles. That one was expensive and embarrassing.
Some people might “try this at home” and find it is very difficult not realizing some boxes are shallow and some are deep. Box depth should be talked about in one of your videos.
Box extenders are a quick and dirty way around a busy junction box situation where you simply need more room to properly fix wiring issues. If the box is down by floor level, it won’t be noticed at all.
If you actually follow code about the free wire I find the shallow boxes to be infuriating unless they are the end of the line, and probably also against the crowding code. Just go bigger. 4" with mud ring. I don't really understand people trying to save money on materials when labor dominates all costs anyway.
@@trygveskogsholm5963 Speaking of saving costs for little reason, I also HIGHLY recommend using 12AWG instead of 14AWG. Especially on small projects such as a new edition on the house even if it’s not required by code. For just a few dollars extra you not only have peace of mind but you leave option open for a very easy and simple transition to 20 amp outlets if ever needed. For things like a window A/C or space heater. My last totally awesome tip is you should consider old work boxes even when building new work. This is great for two reasons. One is that you have more freedom to precisely place your outlet in a more desired location because you can locate the box anywhere between studs. ( Worked for me when I wanted my toaster outlet in the right spot.) And Two, that if you ever need to upgrade the box later such as a hard wired clock or hard wired under cabinet lights, you can easily unmount the old work box then remove it, then reach your hand in behind the wall to pull your new wires.
@@wheelie642 I agree totally. Especially places you have more load, kitchens, garages and even bathrooms. May as well do the entire house when you are building!
@@jthonn It’s another good idea to run a dedicated feed to the bathroom for a high end bidet seat that has heated water. They require a dedicated outlet. Bidet seats are inexpensive compared to high cost bidet toilets. Those bidet toilets are useless without warm water for your butt. A high end bidet seat with heated water and blow dry. That’s the ticket! Search Brondell
As a retired safety person, when checking the electrical outlets for power it is best to first check the electrical tester (whatever type being used) on a known "hot" outlet, then next check the outlet that you are going to work on and then again check another "hot" outlet. This will tell you if your outlet is really not energized. The reason, what if your electrical tester is bad or it just blew out.
Also you can try to live by rule use work with one hand in your pocket when you handle anything in the box, esp. when you pull the outlet out of the box... if there are other circuits junctioned in there that are energized, you don't want to have the current hit you through the heart, vs. the hand.
@@robertlaw4073 If there are any other circuits in there you test them all, you can not effectively do the work with one hand. That advice is good for some work in breaker boxes though where you can do some of it single handed.
@@phillhuddleston9445 I've seen more than a few people who "test" the circuit by trying to trip it, meaning they touch the wire to a ground. Let's be frank, that happens, and those guys are still walking around because they do that with 1 hand in their pocket.
All three of those points were spot on! I have never used the push in connections. It may be ok according to code and have the UL stamp of approval for usage, but I have seen time and time again that these connections become lose and overheated especially when a max draw load is placed on the circuit such as a heater or kitchen appliance. I've lost count of how many times I have run into heat discolored wires that have been wired using this option. I started wiring when I was 14, shadowing my stepdad and by the time I was a senior in high school I could wire a house by myself. The first two points I figured out very early on in my experience. The last one though, the pigtail I wasn't shown that until I was around 40 (I'm 57 now) There are two great reasons to use pigtails. The first is that you have less wires on a receptacle, which makes it easier to work on and replace in the future and also to get the receptacle pushed back in the box, but I feel that the second reason is even more important. If a plug fails from overheating, cracking or just breaks down from age, having the pigtail option ensures that you don't lose a bunch of receptacles down the line. I will also add that when I make up pigtails I make the wires at least 12 inches long, then I make the connection with the wirenuts and then push those back into the box and then make up the connections to the receptacle. Nothing is more irritating than working on an outlet where the wires are too short. Also of note, there is a way to S-fold the wires so that they easily spring back into the box and naturally come back out when the receptacle needs to be worked on in the future. There is another subject that comes up and that is not having too much pressure on the wires trying to push back out. The mounting screws should never be used to try to push the wires in. Nice job on the video!
Assuming the exception to pig tails is when you have a GFI outlet with another outlet downstream. This is the config near my bathroom vanity with an outlet at each end. The GFI is on the first outlet in the series but will trip for either outlet if overloaded.
When I was a professional electrician, about 90% of my service calls were related to the wires being pushed in to the switches or receptacles. It became so common that it was often the first thing that I checked. I will never use that option on any devices that I install.
Very true. I also use receptacle that cost at least 2$, (Paulding, Leviton, et/al) versus the 50 cent chinese receptacles. The condescending fuck-mooks who replied to your correct statement have never replaced a receptacle, much less wired a house or commercial building.
Friends had an older mobile home that developed electrical issues. I found that the push in connections had begun going flaky, replaced the old outlets. One bad push in connection will impact everything downstream of that receptacle. I have always j hooked the wires as this preserves circuit integrity. Although I have had residential electrical training, pigtailing at the receptacle was not covered but makes sense especially with push in connections..
The only thing shittier in a mobile home than its water system is its electrical system.The manufacturers (Usually in Elkhart Indiana) use anyone with a body temperature of 98 degrees. Usually with an IQ about HALF that high. And OVERpay 'em about 2.50 an hour.
Outstanding video! You completely changed the way i will be wiring my electrics. I thought the push in was the easy and newest way of doing business. Liked your pigtail technique also. So much cleaner and easier. Great job!
Wow! I can't believe you would do such a nice thing for us to explain this. Rather than being scared I can't wait to tackle this (after studying even more!) when I close on my house!
I replaced the outlets in my doublewide which was made in 1996 when my dad bought it in 2017. Pretty much all outlets were wired using the push in terminals and many didn't even have screw terminals. I used the better quality back wire outlets. Feel much better about things as I know I won't have any issues from loose connections.
This was exactly my problem! Downstream outlets would inexplicably turn off and on, paid $200 for electricians to come out & find nothing, and then my wife noticed the lights blinked on and off when she plugged the vacuum cleaner into our 30-year old residential grade outlet. Popped it out and saw the hot pass-through wire had worked its way loose, so you were spot on! I'm going to upgrade the outlet & do the suggested pigtail connections.
@@keithdygert1120 - While that is an allowable method, your circuit continuity runs through the receptacle. If one of the connections or the device itself fails, all downstream power is lost, whereas it is maintained with a pigtail. There are plenty of arguments for one method over the other. Personally, I generally find it easier and quicker to swap out a pigtailed device because I am dealing with less wire to pull out and push back in. Sometimes, especially on older houses with shallow boxes, box fill can be an issue that prevents the use of pigtails.
exactly especially when a plug gets covered by drywall and you don't notice, at lease everything will work since its all tied through lol but in commercial I always run pigtails since your typically using 12 awg and its not fun doing trim and landing every wire. Or to fix that I don't pigtail if its 1 or 2 wire and get the better outlets that have a screw type connection and not the ones you have to make a little hooks.
One point to keep in mind with pig tails is that the addition in some codes (can only speak for Canada) of the 2 wire nuts can put you over your box fill limits for number of conductors in the box.
I always put the ground lug up, not down. Was recommended in the 1996 code on a trial basis. They subsequently did not require it in the US. I still do it because if a plug is partially out of the wall, the only way to connect the hot and the neutral is by moving some metallic object UP. Gravity won't cause a short. The first thing a metallic object hits is the **ground lug.** So do they require the ground lug up or down in Canada? Technically, the wire nuts also contribute to the wire fill. But they do not count a wire that starts and ends in the box, i.e. pigtails or ground wire to the metal box.
@@mmoser9483 Back when electric was first being installed, they mounted the [ungrounded] receptacles horizontally. I don't know why they change b/c that way you could not short across the hot and neutral with a foreign object either.
The pigtail option is definitely the way to go but I have found many boxes with out enough internal volume for the large wire nut/marrette connectors (looks like #35). also you could point out the wire folding techniques that make the most of the room that you have
@D. Lindsay - I don't know that it's rare, all the boxes in my house are about 10 cubic inches each, about 3" x 1.75" x 1.75". Expect that was pretty common in the 1950s. I had one outlet box short out after 60 years because the pressure of the box ground screw on the insulation finally caused it to short through the insulation. So how do I fix a broken wire when the box was already too small and now I need another wire nut?
In addition to what has already been brought to "light"! I have encountered a situation where the electrician wired through each receptacle in series. At the last receptacle a heater had been plugged in on the enclosed porch. One of the tenants stated that the receptacle next to her bed was getting very warm (hot) in fact in a plastic box. This receptacle was closest to the sub-panel and wiring was correct however because of the series method of wiring, all of the power drawn beyond the first receptacles went through each receptacle creating a real hazard. When I pulled my three prong tester out, the receptacle came out with the tester because of the heat in the (plastic) box. Never wire in series if it can be avoided...
Spot on advice. I am an electrician. If you do it the way recommended in the video, you will not only have less problems going forward, but you will also have less expense in troubleshooting for why a receptacle stopped working and less expense in repairing it also. If one outlet stops working, the problem is in the outlet itself or it's direct connection to the circuit. I often go to service calls involving multiple outlets that have stopped working. I end up spending a few hours sometimes, taking outlets and switches out of the wall, looking for a point of failure, while trying to figure out which way the cabling is routed, to isolate the exact spot of the failure. Also with new arc fault equipment, using push in connections will increase the likelihood of tripping an arc fault breaker.I will go one step further in saying the safest non pigtailed connection is two wires behind one plate of a backwire capable receptacle. As long as the wires are both the same size and it is tight, it is adequate. Space heaters should really go on a dedicated circuit if possible.
@@johnnygizmo1130 , random isn't an ideal word to adequately describe the reason push in connections cause eventual tripping. If the connection is continuous, then there will be no arcing. If there is a bad connection, it will arc, and this can cause intermittent tripping of a normal breaker eventually and lose of power at some devices if it doesn't trip. I have seen both things happen. If it is an arc fault breaker. You are all but assured to have a tripped breaker problem until the connection issue is resolved.
@@johnnygizmo1130 it's not random. There must be a load somewhere along that circuit. The breaker can open because loose connections can cause a current surge, though it may not be enough to open the circuit. That's why you don't use push in... intermittent arcing from a bad connection creates hot spots, spalling, and could lead to melting and fires. If the breaker keeps opening, find out why, don't keep closing the breaker. Although they're made to last, breakers also fail so you don't need to hasten that by having the flip off and on constantly.
Nice to see a joe blow who’s showing corrections to his mistakes taught on previous videos, however, it goes to show the number of erroneous techniques people are learning by googling DIYs and How Tos.
Recently replaced a 15 amp outlet with a 20 amp and also install another 15 amp outlet. Your videos helped me not make mistakes or do anything excessively stupid, thanks. I’m 17 and had never done any electrical work in my life beyond basic automotive stuff
It’s nice to see you illustrating proper wiring technique. I live in SE Pa. and I’ve seen some butcher electricians in my 35 years in house construction. We, my wife and I, built our house in 1996. I am a carpenter. I hired a ‘professional’ electrician I knew and worked on new construction with. As we have been updating/remodeling our house I’ve realized the electrician I hired originally was a BUTCHER! As an example, he wired the microwave outlet off of another outlet and during Christmas, if our tree lights were on and ran the microwave the breaker would blow. By code the microwave needs to be on a dedicated circuit, he knew this but roughed in so it was convenient and not code. These electricians have Electrical inspectors who they know and are their ‘friends’ inspect the rough in. I’ve seen this time and time again in my area. Now, I’m no electrician but in my experience, my advice is hire a reputable electrician and have some carnal knowledge of code. Bird dog the contractor, insure it’s wired correctly and safely!
I like the fact that you tell how the backstabbed connection are UL approved but still not as safe as the screws. The same thing could be said about pre twisting wires- that is not required by the documentation that comes with the wire nuts but it still makes the connection more secure.
I don’t normally use backstabbed connections either, but it’s a myth they’re inferior. The are NOT “safer” and they are also NOT “less reliable” unless you’re overloading them or did something else wrong on the install (nick a conductor for instance. In fact, expansion/contraction around that screw is much more likely to cause an intermittent connection and start arcing than a backstab connection, especially if a DIYer doesn’t know what the correct torque feels like. The reason to pigtail inline connections is so you’re not constantly passing current through a device. I always do it on new work. However there are times you simply do not have enough wire space in the box to pigtail everything. Especially in multi-gang boxes. Running in unused screws is a good idea. and I’d add you should also wrap the device with a cpl layers of electrical tape. Makes it much safer to work on.
We're having a new house built, and though I already knew much of what they cover, your videos about electrical outlets, etc., have been great reminders for what to keep an eye on during construction. Thanks!
@@Notyou69420- Micro managing is constantly looking over one's shoulder. I don't think that's what he meant. I see nothing wrong with the home owner doing their own inspection of the work when it's done. After all, they will be the one living in the house, not the tradesman. ;-)
@@chuckm260 if you are the GC (and are actually knowledgeable, not just trying to save money) then fine. If not, this is what you are paying the GC for so stay out of the way and let them do their job.
sounds like a good way to get fired as a client.don't micromanage your tradesmen if you're not qualified to do the work yourself, watching a few youtube videos doesn't make you knowledgeable on subjects that take people 5 year apprenticeships which includes schooling to learn.
@@jordanadams5902 My old man was an electrical for a few years and he taught me a lot. I've been doing my own electrical work at home for decades, so yes, I'm considerably more knowledgeable than someone who has just watched a couple of videos. I'm not talking about micromanaging anyone, but I don't want builder grade junk in a house I'm spending several hundred thousand dollars on.
Ok me again, two things I want to contribute. 1st is that I saw on one of the push in wires. It looked like the insulation was stripped with the wrong size on the wire stripper. As a result there is a cut in the wire. this effectively reduces the wire gauge at that point and reduces the current carrying capacity. Secondly was the stuffing of the wires into the box. Its a small point but I like to point the wire nuts facing up. Why? just in case for some reason water gets into the box (broken pipe, inside the wall leak from the roof, overflowing sink etc.). I just thing its a simple thing to do and could potentially stop a water leak from becoming LIVE..
The reason I agree with your third point is that it leaves the outlets down-line in service if that outlet fails. Not because there are multiple contacts to the outlet. Good videos and tips!
Several years ago, in a spec house in CA, my son tried to remove a broken light bulb shell from a ceiling fan and forgot to turn off the switch. He created a short that blew a back-stabbed hot wire out of an outlet in our bedroom on the other side of the house! We lost power in our bedroom but it did not trip the breaker. After that I went and installed pigtails on every outlet in the house.
Yes on the pigtails! I didn't think of that. Always struggled getting stacked Shepard's hooks to tighten down properly, especially one solid and one stranded.
Back stabbing is so irritating. Most of the receptacles in my house were old Leviton that accepted 12 AWG for back stabs. Seems like half of them just pulled out when I was replacing them.
I thought the shepherd's hook should curve clockwise, in the direction of the clamp down screw. One of the hot leads was -- as best I could see in the video -- curved the other way, which tends to push the hook a little out from under the screw head.
Hey Louis, you are right that clockwise is the way to go. Might have been hard to see but the receptacle in the video had the hooks running clockwise. One side use the top screw and the other used the bottom which might have been throwing you off. Thanks!
We bought a home with a blown out GFCI and cold kitchen circuit receptacles. After moving in I found the LINE was wired to LOAD terminals and the LOAD was wired to the LINE terminals. Unbelievable negligence from the builder's electrician but only a $10 DIY fix.
many residential electricians are unlicensed and often forced to work as self employed so the contractor can deny liability and force the "employee" to provide all their own tools and safety gear. Not all of them, but it is a pretty common setup these days.
Incredible how many people wire the plugs in backward. Once found house breaker box with one side swapped hot and neutral. Guy was wondering why his lights were all blowing out when he turned them on.
Great information !!! Something also worth mentioning is to ensure you use the PROPER SIZE wire nut for each scenario. I often find myself needing a trade size 35 wire nut when twisting more than two wires together. The wire nut boxes and container labels should say the combination of wire numbers and sizes that are appropriate for the particular size wire nut the installer is considering. A good guide is that twisting together three wires, including a pigtail wire, you can be pretty safe using a 35. Of course even bigger wire means possibly needing even bigger than a 35. But, at that point, it’s likely that a do-it-yourselfer is performing an electrical task they shouldn’t. Cheers from 🇨🇦
"wire nut boxes and container labels should say the combination of wire numbers and sizes that are appropriate" they don't? Last I checked the ones I bought did state that.
If you want to take your wiring skills to the next level, always close down your hook around the terminal screw with needle-nose pliers.You can make the loop into a circle that is close to 360 degrees, the conductor can never work loose unless the terminal screw is completely unscrewed. It takes a few more seconds, but it's what separates the knowing from the unknowing.
@@mipr4440 It isn't unnecessary and is irrespective of the number of outlets needing to be wired. What other corners do you cut in the name of expediency?
@@larrydaniels6532 my friend it is certainly unnessesary to pull out the needle nose pliers every time you wire a device. As an electrician myself after doing thousands of connections you get pretty good at it. If youre an inexperienced homeowner by all means crimp down every hook because you probably fucked up. All I know is I have connected thousands of devices over the years and never been back to a site to fix a single one of them, hbu?
@@mipr4440 I can understand by your reply that you are a very "average individual", probably little or no higher education. My original comment stated that this method is a step above average. Assuming that a person is "fucking up" by doing a procedure that most master electricians were taught as apprentices shows both a lack of knowledge and logic.
In case no one has mentioned. I always wrap all receptacles and switches with electrical tape around to prevent accidental shorts from the screws on the sides to the box.
@@Hello.alexis.speaking I've come across receptacles done up that way. They seem to hold well, only downside I can see is the receptacle and wires are a sticky mess after you remove the tape but generally you're replacing the receptacle anyway if you are digging that deep into the tape.
It's somewhat unnecessary if the box is plastic. If it's an older metal box, and if appropriate for code, I recommend using a plastic box extender instead of wrapping with electrical tape. Both with safeguard against arching and shorting, but wrapping takes longer and is less convenient.
Excellent tips. I'm no electrician but I grew up round one. These were some of the first things I was taught as a kid and those blasted push ins are a constant fight between my father-in-law and I. He thinks screw terminals take too much time 🤦🏻♂️
I have always been told to point the wire nuts to opposite ends of the box. so your white facing up and black or hot pointing down tucked into the corner of the box. that way if the wire nut ever starts to back off it will be held in place.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs One thing I do is I wrap the connectors w/elec.tape. I know it's unnecessary and overkill, but the next guy will be ae o be more casual and I am probably gonna be the next guy. I always work live so I can see what is what.
Not being a professional electrician, myself and a fellow EE wired my house when we built it. Thank you for demonstrating how it is done properly, especially the pigtails, which carry the series load and not the Wally World P(eices) OS. I used all Hubble hospital grade receptacles. Later on several times guests have asked me why my receptacles are a fumy color.
While I applaud your right to overkill. He was talking about receptacles bought at the 99 cent store two-for-a-dollar. I would never use those but commercial grade is plenty good. No need to get Space Shuttle grade receptacles IMHO.
Hospital grade has a green dot on the face and is stamped “hospital grade.” They can easily be obtained in standard white with the green dot. The color you have, whatever it may be could be depicting additional info like orange “isolated ground” or red “emergency cct” or grey “UPS power”. I just want people to know that hospital grade isn’t simply depicted by “funny colors”
Why spend 8 bucks per hospital grade outlets, just use industrial, but why even spend the extra money when you go not need to. I perfer to use Pass and Seymour over Leviton for residential mainly due to the construction of the blades which grab the prongs tighter!
Thank you for the last recommendation; the pigtail installation. At first I thought, “what difference would it make?”. When you mentioned “cleanliness” at the end I realized that was a great recommendation. Not to mention it could make “flushing” the outlet against the wall easier.
Its not just cleanliness or neatness. Its a code requirement on the neutral side. If you lose the neutral bad things happen. This guy is pretty good but he is not an electrician. But he is trying to help and is honest....
Thanks. Love the demos. I changed a ceiling fan last week. The house was built in1995 by "pro electricians". Well, they didn't have the termination in a box. Fan mounting plate was mounted to a joist and wire was stapled to joist.
Had an intermittent problem with part of a circut, traced it to a push-in connection of an outlet. Some minor oxidation caused the internal spring action of the push-in to lock up, the exposed copper lead was loose and came out with no effort.
I’m a retired contractor, I can’t begin to tell you how many times I’ve found plug ins that’s failed with electrical wires pushed in those easy holes in the back of the plug in rather then using the screws on the side properly. Thing people don’t realize or understand is those holes on the back only have a very thin piece of metal making contact with their electrical wires and less contact with their wires create excessive heat especially under a heavy load and it’s the potential of a fire just waiting to happen using those holes. Many of these plug ins that’s failed using these holes shows where excessive heat on the back of the plug ins have actually melted and black residue inside the box from wires casings starting to burn. Most don’t start fires but I have seen some that has! It’s just not worth the risk of a fire to save a little time and effort using those holes on the back of the plug ins rather then wrapping your wires around the screws on the side of the plug ins to make sure your wires have as much contact with the metal screws as possible to keep from having heat from being built up from a bad contact with your wires! I honestly can’t believe that using those holes on the back of the plug ins meets code, nor should they be UL approved in my opinion either! But I’ve learned over the years just cause a product says it’s UL approved doesn’t mean in the least that the product is safe! I had numerous UL approved space heaters over the years I’ve used that has had the wire that plugs into the walls plug in get so hot that the wires melted and started a small fire on my floor after using the heater only a few hours for a month or so. If you use space heaters it’s always a good idea to check the plug in wire coming out of the heater to see if it’s hot or not? If it’s hot I would not use it any longer and if the plug in wired using those holes on the back just adding to the risk of having a fire in your house!
That is almost always true. There are however an entire line of push-in receptacles that are built with the concern you have brought up and have a half inch (maybe it's a cm) of surface contact that pinches the wire. Much better at keeping current and circuit use. The only issue now is that some people don't understand the use of one metal to avoid electrolysis.
I’ve talked with numerous electricians that’s warned me more then once to absolutely never use those holes simply cause there’s only two very thin pieces of metal that’s actually making any contact with your electrical wires! If it was thick where it made contact with the wires I highly doubt there be enough give in the metal that grabs your electrical wires to actually grab and hold the wires! As I said earlier, I’ve seen far too many electrical plugs fail using those holes including some recently that were just on the verge of catching fire when they failed. Considering the potential of the damages and even the possibility of loss of life by a house fire! I certainly wouldn’t risk using those holes for any reason! I’ve personally been thru a house fire loosing everything I owned. You don’t really realize how devastating a house fire can be till you’re lived thru one!
@@ghostridergale Not all receptacles are built the same. Some are actually built with the concept of making as much contact as possible by not using the edge of the metal but similar to a slide in with a biting edge, quite ingenious really. Thing is they are not easy to find, not cheap and plenty of pretenders.
@@Joe-by8jh Yes, WAGO, I totally agree. It really doesn;t matter if there is at least one guy on the internet espousing the advantages of WAGO even if the premise seems to be it's being used in such low current capacity that it's somehow okay. I don't buy that, and I don't think anyone else should either. The more surface area to transmit electrons the better.
You make very good points with this video and agree with you whole heartedly. I worked as an electrician doing new tract home construction. The main reason (not that it is right or Correct) is the time it takes to make up each receptacle or switch. Most finish electricians are paid peace work. In other words, the more you do in a day the more money you make. It takes more time to create Pig-tales, as do "J" or Shepards Hooks and side wiring. It is very quick to strip and push the wires into the back wire connections. I was the foreman that had to "Wring the houses out" I would go through the house after the work was done, and make sure everything worked as it was supposed to. If I found a problem it was up to me to troubleshoot and correct. Using the back wire (Push in) connections were often time problematic. I would find problems with receptacles not working due to loss of Neutral or Hot connections causing a dead circuit, sometimes two or three receptacles away from the one that was dead. The correction was to do a pigtail and side wire. That would take care of the issue at least until another issue came up downstream at a later time, and that would be fixed under warranty if called on it. Some of the things I saw doing this job would make your head burst. Romex cable "Homeruns" pulled across the top of the live bus bars in panels because the contractor was trying to save money on wire. Many may have heard of Oklahoma 3 wires on 3 or 4-way switch circuits where when the wire was pulled, they forgot to put a 14-3 Romex in for a Traveler circuit, so they would Heat UP a Neutral and use the ground for a neutral. This got me shocked more than once. And one more tidbit, Lineman pliers are just that. Klein is the brand name for a line of tools. This is like calling an Adjustable Wrench a Crescent Wrench. Crescent is a Brand Name.
And, to think we pay builders and contractors that are LICENSED to do these things. I work in IT, and know what I should/shouldn't do. Builders and Contractors should follow the same suit. We built our house in 2019, and I cannot believe to tell you the issues we have come across. And, some of them are 'hidden', and even the Inspector would not have been aware of them. A tad frustrating. Alas, another informative video...
Hate to be the bearer of bad news. But typically residential installers. The guys actually wiring your home, aren't licensed. They're dirt cheap labor the contractor pays to turn a profit for them. So. When shopping for contractors, make sure you find out who's actually going to be doing the install. Is it methed up Mike for $11/hr, or master electrician Matt for $55/hr. ? Your contractor is definitely going with Mike. (because the labor rate you're getting charged is still based off of $165/hr) Which brings me to my last point. Cheap is never good in the electrical industry. This isn't a trade where you ever want to go with the lowest bidder.
Sorry to say, it's been that way on residential work for many decades. I did lots and lots of union residential wiring from 1964 to +- 1980. Even then it was known as "roller skate" work since the contractors expected you to "run" through the work. Lots of guys wouldn't take those jobs for that reason and would "look down" on those how did. I was often the one doing the "trouble-shooting" on the new houses when they were sold and the new owner had the power turned on. I had to figure out and correct the mistakes guys made that were many times no longer there. It always bothered me that the work we did for those paying with "their own money" (as opposed to business/corporate funds) was the shoddiest work of all. The developers would "beat down" the sub-contractors prices to the point where if you had to go back to a house to do a trouble call, you lost money on that house.
One of the things I found was a good practice during my time as an electrician was putting a few wraps of electrical tape around the body of the switch or receptacle once it was wired. This was common practice in the more commercial/industrial projects rather than residential where we were dealing with metal boxes and mud rings. All the tape did was to help prevent shocks and sparks on the occasion that troubleshooting was later required on a hot circuit and the device had to be pulled from the box while live. It was more for the safety of the next guy to come along and perform whatever work was needed.
Hello Charles , I wrap outlets and switches for the same reason you do , To provide added safety against grounding out the connections on the box and helping prevent shocks for the next person who happens to work on it
My electrician told me to wrap with elec tape - been doing it since. Really does help when troubleshooting hot. Rarely see it in a box. (I’m not an electrician). 👍
I learned to use pigtails in my high school electricity class, over half a century ago, and have never done multiple wires any other way. Back then Marr connectors were commonly used, where there was a collar with screw to hold the wires together and covered with a plastic cap. Also, I've never used the push in connections.
As a sparky with 25 years in the trade, I cringed seeing that outlet with all those wires landed on it. I've never done it that way. IMO the best way is to pigtail when you have more than 1 hot, neutral or ground.
Worked with the laziest sparky. He would have 9 wires going to a spec grade receptacle that had the plates to place wires in before tightening. He also used the smallest or shallowest boxes.
When I was going over and changing every outlet as well as adding isolated circuits, i found several every screw and push ins used.. When I took my electrical courses years ago our instructor told us if we used a push in he would fail us.. I also pig tail and then connect to the correct rated outlet..
Retired electrician here, almost 30 years 20 of it doing housing . Union west suburbs of Chicago. We are an outlier in this discussion as we use pipe and wire no rope. Couple of things to say. Backstabbers are hacks. If you have that many wires coming into a box you failed. Nec 300.13 b in non lawyer speak basically says you must be able to remove the outlet without interrupting the white wire for stuff down the line. How do you do this with your outlet? Now you say wait a minute the power will be off so no problem. Wrong, sometimes as a skilled electrician you have to do stuff hot. With your outlet there if you were to lose one of those neutrals while hot bad things happen to electronics. I replaced every outlet in my house to a different color and never turned a breaker off. How did I do that ? Every outlet was pigtailed.
I am still active with 42 years. Today they don't know anything about all that working it hot with good safe practices passed down by men over me that had pride and integrity. Short cuts and hack jobs and then scrutinized by people making it look like we all do it like that, when in fact the guy claiming that has not the knowledge, skill, nor experience to make such claims.
Nice video. I've been an electrician for 54 years and believe me when I say that I've worked along side some guys the pull stuff like that just because of laziness. Some guys were as bad I would trust them to string lights on a Christmas tree.
those back wire installs where it's like a push-in but uses the screw to tighten, I love those. Recently replaced all my outlets with commercial grade ones and it was a pleasure to install
My son bought a house and the kitchen and bathroom located on the backside of the wall all went dead. Someone had used the push in from the panel and then daisy chAined 3 receptacles( coffee maker and microwave included) and then went to the bathroom. What a nightmare to chase down. We felt a lot safer after it was we fixed it. Thanks for your tips. Always informative.
First thing I thought was pig tails.... Stab-ins don’t have the same surface contact area on the wire as side terminals and should be avoided. Lastly, I typically wrap the outlet or switch with black electrical tape if it’s going in a metal box. Just an added layer of protection.
A metal box doesn't make a bit of difference. You're screwing the receptacles into place, both you and the guy in the video are being overly paranoid... there isn't a need to tighten unused screws or tape an entire receptacle/switch. That being said I prefer the Shepard hook anyways so the screw gets used. But I don't worry about short circuits. Make sure all connections are dry and tight and you'll be fine until the house crumbles from age.
When you pig tail the amps from other devices will not pass thrue that device . It's the best way to wire a device to a splice to prevent overheating which will lead to a fire which will lead to loss of life
Thanks for this video. I have been trying to find this exact issue because I am adding a 2nd outlet in my bathroom and the gfi that was installed when I remodeled had the same thing. I had a friend who I feel is quite knowledgeable with electricity tell me it was done wrong. I bought a plug in tester that showed it is wired correctly and is working fine. Now I know what to do and feel a helluva lot better about moving forward with my project. Make one line out of two, run my load wires to my extra outlet and call it a day! Thanks again.
Very well done. Also, to add, make sure that the ground part of the receptacle is down so when you look at it you will see an "Oh" face. There is a good reason for that, which I am sure you know. My brand new house had most of the outlets with the ground side up...sigh...so I went through and turned them the right way.
I've heard people saying that the ground plug should be UP since it is your thumb that is most likely to slip and touch one the top prong(s), so having it as ground would be safer... Since I've NEVER been shocked by an outlet when plugging in something or unplugging something, that just sounds like a "solution looking for a problem"... Personally though, I stay with the ground prong being in the down position because that is what I can always remember having ever since we went from non-grounded outlets to grounded outlets MANY decades ago... And if you are going to be plugging in any sort of electronic device's wall power supply (aka "wall wart"), they are normally oriented so that the ground pin is expected to be down, otherwise the weight of the device would cause the unit to come out of the outlet somewhat.
Great video. For an extra measure of safety, I usually wrap the screw terminals with a couple wraps of electrical tape to prevent the screws from coming into contact with the sides of the metal box.
@@Mark-ul1hz Maybe so, but the tape I used when I wired my parents' garage in 1970 is still holding tight. And even if it did come loose, there's no harm done.
@@ttiwkram I've encountered plenty of electrical tape from 1956 that was still holding on pretty well. Good thing too, since there was not one single wire nut in my whole house when I moved in. Every splice was soldered and taped.
@@Mark-ul1hz that's if they are buying the 12 for a dollar stuff, I only use 3M black electrical tape, used to use it to bundle the electrical wires to submersible pump plastic pipe lasted for years fully submerged in water wells.
This will give you a good laugh. I worker for a national homebuilder in CT. We had a homeowner who kept blowing her GFI outlets in the kitchen every time she threw this switch. I had the electrician come out to look at it. He immediately said why is there a switch where the outlet should be. Every time you threw the switch it shorted out the whole line. So he gave me an outlet to put in place of the switch while he changed out the GFI outlets.
After watching this video and another one of your videos I was able to easily understand what to look for while replacing a outlet. It was worn out due to the outlet being used often with the vacuum. It was so easy that I decided to replace another commonly used outlet in the room. just to get the practice of doing this. When I took the other outlet apart one of the black wires had been nicked by someone installing the wires and outlet box. It was nicked so much that after pulling the outlet out of the box the wire broke off and as I was starting to pull it out of the back stab position.
We recently (2/21) went from renters to townhome owners. The prior owner had sweetened the for sale listing by extending electrical wires from within the house to outside to create an outlet to reach a water softener. Our home inspector did not report any issues. Not long after winter faded and the humidity and thunderstorms started (4/21), our water softener lost power. The breaker had not triggered, but the GFCI receptacles had. (Yes, I said: receptacleS.) Our circuit goes from a 20A breaker in the fuse box to (1) a kitchen wall 15A receptacle to (2) another kitchen wall 15A receptacle to (3) a DIY outdoor 15A GFCI receptacle to (4) another DIY outdoor 15A GFCI receptacle in which finally the water softener is plugged in. A trip to Lowe's and they sent me back with a box of three 20A GFCI to replace the receptacles: the two outdoors and at least the one inside the kitchen leading outside. This runs contrary to what I gleaned from you so far: there should not be multiple GFCI receptacles on the circuit/line, and it should be the first receptacle that is replaced with the GFCI anyway. So back to Lowe's where they give me just one 15A GFCI receptacle telling me 20A GFCI receptacles are overkill, and the 20A breaker doesn't matter, i.e., I don't have to use a 20A GFCI just because the breaker is 20A. Needless to say I'm not filled with confidence. I am determined to do this on my own, especially since a call to two different commercial electricians meant I would still be left in the dark (not literally) and with a bill for my shame. What should this circuit/line look like? If point A is the 20A breaker and point B is the water softener, what do points 1 (kitchen wall), 2 (kitchen under windowsill), 3 (outdoor under windowsill), and 4 (near water softener on porch) look like?
I’ve always wrap the duplex outlet with super 33 for extra protection particularly when you have a metal box. It’S not required by code but it’s a good practice that reduces other possible problems. Thanks, I enjoyed your video.
I wrap with tape as well, I picked it up from someone a long time ago. Fold the last bit of tape over on itself to make it a million times easier to remove when work is needed. I'm in Chicago so metal everything.
And do the same with switches, that way, if anyone has the covers off, the terminals are somewhat inaccessible,especially in a multiple device box. Most electricians do not do this in production work in new building, as it takes too much time, and when locating a problem it presents more work.
What are you guys doing to require tape all over? If you're removing the receptacle from the box it doesn't matter if it is made from carbon fiber, plastic, wood, metal, Papier-mâché... and upon insertion you're screwing it back into the top and bottom. Why would you wrap it? You know electricity produces heat, right? You know by wrapping tape around it needlessly, you will be trapping heat that should be dissipating when the receptacle is in use? I mean the receptacle is secured to a box of whatever construction which is covered over by a plate so there's literally no need for tape. It is a sign of someone that doesn't understand how electricity works and adds a potential hazard. There's a reason it is not required nor have I ever heard it recommended except in these comments. Silly.
It does work, it's within NEC, "national Electric code". What people dont understand is "code" is the minimal requirement. You should always go above minimum.
That's a bad description. It's a standard not a minimum it also has maximums. Most "going above" provides no additional value and in a lot of cases actually provides less safety and less value by default. Going above and beyond is usually the mantra of someone that doesn't understand that standard.
@@lloydmills9619 A good review and point . And again the people complaining do NOT understand the inspector can only inspect and approve or dis-approve based on "standard", not what you like , or going over the maximum , his|her gut feeling or best practices. That what the author of this video should focus on and not call them mistakes.
One finishing touch that I like to add, is to put a wrap of 33 around the outlet or switch terminals to give a little added protection against contact..
@@steveburke3923 Yes. Tape is ignitable, in a building where the walls are made of metal studs, you're using fire doors, fireproof ceiling panels, 5/8" gypsum board & steel is all fire sprayed you basically don't have anything inside the walls that could fuel a fire that doesn't need to be there.....except electrical tape.
Feb 23, 2023. I'm not an electrician but I have replaced dozens of wall sockets over the years, a dozen just recently and I never knew what I was really doing. The wirenut never stayed on because I didn't know how to screw it on or how to trim the wires. And I didn't know about pigtail wires. Up until now I use duct tape over the wire nut and prayers after the job is done. Thank you very much for this video.
Where I live we have code that electrical tape must be run around the receptacle covering the screws terminals It is a safe practice and I have done this for years prior to it becoming code. And I will agree with you about push-in failures. I have gone back to exclusively using the screw terminals because of this. May take a few seconds longer but in the long run I don't have to worry about a client complaining a receptacle is not working.
@@j_boogie_483 I wouldnt wrap ur wire nuts w tape, looks like you’re hiding something, tape will heat up and melt over time creating a mess and overall looks sloppy but to each their own
Running tape over screws is not safe practice and I'd be curious to see this supposed code. It is a safety hazard. It adds nothing but heat buildup. Current isn't going to magically travel to the gang box through air... unless you have so high a voltage to cross the air gap but then you have a LOT bigger problems if that much voltage is coming in to your feed.
Just found your channel and have already busted myself on a couple of mistakes I have made in the past. Thank you for this info. Looks like better tools makes a difference also. Thanks again, Brian
One thing that I would like to add as an electrician. “It’s a much better approach” (referring to using a pigtail)
The reason you want to use a pigtail is because it keeps that specific outlet separate from the ones down the line. If you ever have this specific outlet burn out, the other outlets on the circuit would remain functional because they have a connection point at the wire nut, not in the outlet alone. For electricians coming over to fix the issue, it will save you money and time, when they can troubleshoot the one outlet, rather than the entire line of outlets trying to find which outlet is the bad outlet. Rather than just having one bad outlet that can easily be picked out and replaced.
I ran into this situation when I helped a neighbor. The outlet closest to his front door was not working, checked voltage at the panel and the voltage was good, I then went back inside, and checked voltage on the outlet on the OPPOSITE side of the wall! No power either. I opened that outlet, as it was the closest to the panel in that room. Sure enough, that wire was all corroded and the neutral push in location was melted and burned. I replaced the outlet and added a pigtail. His Christmas lights were back on.
This took me a very short time to locate and fix, even when the outlet in question was never even opened. I could have opened all the outlets in the room to figure out the issue and cost him much more money.
Also, you should pull test your wires once you place your wire nuts on. I also, in my opinion, would never pre twist the wires before placing a wire nut. It’s more of a personal preference, I’m sure they are both fine, but you should always pull test. Sometimes the wires just slip out and can cause issues.
Good on you for tightening both screws so they don’t have such a wide profile, very common mistake people make.
I never use the push in method. I’m not a piece worker, so I’m sure it’s much faster, but ultimate far less superior than the screw. (Even with the push in method you need to tighten the screws, those are still live once that circuit is up and running. If this video is for DIY’ers you should always recommend turning the breaker off, I noticed that you never touched on that at all in the video.
I think that about raps it up. Good video, hope this helps someone.
No one is going to read all this sorry
@@James-dt7ky I read it all.
@@DirtRider999 If reading detailed text isn't your thing then doing electrical work should also be off your list.
@@davidjorgensen877 👏👏👏
I just saw this video. Ive been an electrician for over 45 years and have seen all of the mistakes that can be made. I am so glad to see a young person going out of their way to put the correct information out there and take the advise of other possibly more senior professionals. Thank you and keep putting the correct information out there.
75 here, and have built and wired a few houses, learned a lot by watching this guy. I've always wondered about the push holes. They don't have as much contact with the inner core of the outlet to add extra loads down the line. Esp on a 14 gage wire with 15 amp breaker. I've been guilty long time ago about forcing 12 gage wire into those holes, until I spent a sleepless night wondering if I could cause a fire hazard for my kids.
Customer plugs his coffee marker in and pop, later on someone plugged a Vacuum in and it sounded like a high speed turbine firing up.
45 years? And you didn't catch the mistakes? Have you burned any houses down?
@@donaldhinson7144 Pay attention! John Harold said he had seen all of the mistakes that can be made in his 45+ years as an electrician so obviously he DID catch the mistakes and was glad of the effort being made to educate the DIY'ers (and as well as those electricians taking potentially dangerous shortcuts whether within code or not) of best electrical wiring practices.
Wtf is being said here I'm lost
I worked for over 20 years as a plumber/ handyman. I was constantly replacing receptacles that had charred a bit and almost every one was using push in connectors. It becomes even more dangerous on buildings wired in aluminum, like mobile homes. Those push ins make a very small connection so oxidation has more of an effect as does over draw
Hope you realized not all receptacles are made for Aluminum wire. Some are rated for both, and some aren't. Being a Electrician I can't tell you how many plugs and switches I've changed because people don't know what their doing.
@@Auburn7543 sorry I didn’t mean I replaced them on aluminum wire just pointing out that aluminum oxidizes faster.
Awesome you are right on
Push ins seem to be preferred with GFCI outlets.
I worked as an electricians helper with the possibility of an apprenticeship back in the 1970's. The boss told us not to worry about the ground wire in receptacles and we were joining aluminum wire to copper wire. All he was interested in was getting the job done as quickly as possible. That was in Woodstock Ontario Canada and surrounding area.
Appreciate that there is no obnoxious "music" in the background, just a clear presentation!
lol, good point.
I totally share that perspective!
You are right! Most problems are caused by push in wires.I never use them except for a small amperage use like a lamp.
Chicky cjicky bow wow. 🤣. It is comforting to not hear funky music in background. Some channels heavy metal (fun when young) but get older. 😱.
@@stemmentor9700 I don't know U so leave me alone..................
Im not an electrician....but way back over 50 years ago our high school had excellent tech classes. Our electric shop instructor was a crusty old englishman....we spent what seemed an eternity on making perfect shaped connections....had to look like a cup holder hook. The connections had to be tight....he inspected to copper to make sure you hadnt nicked or marred it in any way.. Ive never forgotten ...thank you Mr. Edwards.
Good workmenship is paramount. Back then, inspectors would eyeball how well the wire was stripped and would not sign off sloppy wire stripping if it nicked the copper almost on a microscopic level. But lots of these techniques have gone away for quick and dirty expediency current workforce policy’s now trending to use.
it's not that important but it's definitely better for more surface area to touch the entire screw terminal. people often load down outlets and draw serious amperage. you don't want it over heating.. another reason i hate push in terminals.
@@chuckholmes2075 Thanks for reply.... for sure we were a bunch of absolutely clueless 17 year olds. I think he wanted to instill a work ethic based on care and detail hoping down the road it would serve us well.
Most our instructors in tech were that way ....
@@davidburman451 just gave me some inspiration, thanks for sharing!
Same here. I learned in a high school trade class and he taught us everything this video stated.
Great video! Remembering back to decades ago spending summers working as a helper with my dear old dad, an electrician. It seems he taught me well. Screws in, never backstab, always pigtail. I still adhere to that. My medical office had all the equipment in two rooms fail and my staff was at a loss. I checked each outlet along until I found a hot one. Going back to the last dead one, I opened it and saw a stab-in had broken, likely from constant wiggling as the receptacle was not tightened down. I still encounter an occasional splice box where a neutral is acting as a feed and even where two sets of black wires run through on different legs. I even got shocked touching a run of bx jacket in the attic and saw the prior homeowner had run circuits with lamp cord. Fun, fun, fun!
I am a retired journeyman electrician and I agree with you on all of your examples. I never used those "push in" type of electrical connections to the receptacle. I thought they were mechanically weak despite meeting the NEC codes. I always used the J-Hook way of connecting the wires and I always used the pigtail set up. I didn't like the idea of the receptacle sharing the loads from other circuit loads. A very well done video!
The only thing I would add is to hook the wire hook in the clockwise direction so the screw helps pull the hook in when tightening. I've seen a number of receptacles and switches wired with the hook in the wrong direction.
i am not an electrician, but ive done a few outlets in my home. i always make sure to buy the outlets that have the plate on the screw that clamps down and holds the wire in, no need to hook the wire around the screw. however, that plate is never on the green screw, so you do still need to hook that one.
edit: you can see this at 4:40 in this video when it shows him removing the two hot wires from one screw.
@@darrellcurrier5571 tbh that plate is just to hold braided wire in .. since many people use that stuff ... solid core wire is best in those outlets but ALWAYS j bend your wire and ALWAYS wrap it so it gets pulled into the connector ... it ALSO provide strain relief ... very very minor but it does .. also the wire doesnt work loose over time and then short out ... yup houses shake and move wires ...
He doesn't say anything about hooking in the clockwise direction because he ends up using a different style receptacle in his example, but at 2:47, he does have a picture up with that recommendation.
I traind to always, 1- hook the wire clockwise around the screw to pull in the wire and 2- mount the receptacles ground up, so in case the plug is ever not entirely in the receptacle anything that could make contact does with ground.
@@yourname519 The problem with ground up is that nearly all of the flush mount plugs that I've run across, such as for refrigerators or washing machines, are designed to hang nicely from a ground-down oriented receptacle. With a ground up receptacle, you get an awkward up-and-over flip of the chord, which might even increase the likelihood of a loose connection.
I'm a Lic electrician....40yrs +......I ALWAYS pigtail Every rec outlet I install....Clean up & straighten ALL wires, Re-strip as needed, & pigtail with a QUALITY wirenut & NEATLY push all wires back into the box, & secure the rec outlet.....Nice & Tight, & Neat !!!
I do too and I have just started using Wago connectors.
I am curiuos and appreciate your insight, but I'd like to know why exactly is this done, just for neatness?
I can only speak for myself but the reason I pigtail every receptacle is because I don’t want the entire load of the circuit going through every receptacle. If they are pigtailed the circuit is continuous throughout the run and each outlet is tapped off of that independent of the total load. The neatness part is so that you can see what’s going on. The wires need to dissipate heat. If they’re all twisted and tangled together in the box the chance of a short circuit is greater the heat does not dissipate as well and it is difficult sometimes to get the required number of wires to fit well in the box. When I roughed in a box I always do it the same way exactly. I have my own business so I use the wire code I was taught by my mentors. It is important that everybody know the same code. One electrician can walk away from the box and another one can come in and see what is going on and know how to wire it simply by the way the first electrician left the box of everything is neat and done the same way every time.
@@SuperFredAZ Please read Henry Wright's comment below....Spot on !!!
@@henrywight4057 Can't speak to US code but the Canadian code mandates pigtails on the neutral. Something to do with a shared neutral on 120v circuits. You lose the neutral and the connected outlets can potentially see 240v.
Just saw your video using Wago connectors which would also be useful here. When just starting I was told there were 2 major rules for doing any type of electrical work - 1. Never wire anything that is hot and 2. Assume that everything you are wiring is hot. Based on that after I turn off the correct breaker, then use my non-contact voltage detector, as a final using a pair of insulated pliers - I force the black wire to touch ground to verify no current and then touch the black wire to touch the white wire to confirm someone didn't connect a neutral to a hot somewhere. Takes a little time, but on more than one occasion I was glad I did it that way.
Been doing reno on a house and this is rampant all over the 1983 built wiring. Thank you for this easy to understand and watch instruction!
Some great tips here, especially for people that have to come behind someone else's work! You didn't mention it but I noticed that you tucked the wires in with the nuts pointing up which is just a little bit more safe and helps keep stuff from falling into it. One tip I would like to add, especially for a box with so many wires, is to pre-bend the wires into an "S" or "U" shape. It requires less force to push in and pull out later and lessens some of the strain on your connections.
Your point is good. I have seen WAY too many boxes with tons of wires (sometimes too many for box fill) that look like a rats nest. Especially critical if using an older box that might be a bit shallow, and someone shoehorns in a GFI or dimmer.
I have seen some interesting comments over the years from people who both have conviction and at the same time are just simply wrong in their approach. Peter you might take the cake. Did you just recommend people can “whittle down” a 12 gauge wire? We are going to have to agree to disagree on all your recommendations. Be safe and maybe reconsider your approach to electrical.
@Peter Evans so the numer 1 and 3 are false ?
@Peter Evans I am an electrician. I always tighten the unused screws on the receptacle. The box is usually plastic in houses but the ground wires in the box are usually bare. I removed receptacle covers and have seen these bare ground wires dangerously close to the side screws. If you are in commercial buildings the mud ring on the metal box is very close to the side screws. A real electrician sometimes has to pull out an attached receptacle while the circuit is still energized. Not recommended, but sometimes unavoidable.
I have never, and I mean never, heard of or seen anyone whittle down an electrical conductor to fit into a stab lock.
@Peter Evans so this is the real reason why you're rambling!! It's just that you think that being an engineer you're better or somewhat above a non engineer. An electrician can now the same or even more things than you, you're not necessarily better just because you have a piece of paper that says you're an engineer.
Really appreciate that you're featuring advice from licensed electricians, and showing best practice. As the owner of three houses, always want to wire to better than code.
The code is written by trade professionals and updated every three years to require the use of some new product. You really dont need to be thinking about wiring BETTER than the codes. I mean, it's not like these are the guidelines for nursing homes which allow 1 nurse for 25 residents who all need care.
@@jeremyanderson3819 codes are minimum requirements.
Yes keep in mind always never wire to the backs. Of a device. Ever the amps will pass thrue on path back to panel also if a wire can break and is dangerous
N.E.C. is the minimum requirement which means I would wire YOUR house to the N.E.C. but not my own
@@jeremyanderson3819 Well said. You can't really wire "better" than the code. It's a sort of nonsensical idea, since the book ("not for laymen":100) is a guidline for installations. You cant buy "better" NMB, or provide "extra" capacity to conductors, etc., because that would be a crummy, unworkmanlike install.
Thank you for this instructive video, well done. I'm not a pro, by any stretch of the imagination, but one thing I was taught many years ago, by a licensed electrician, was to use electrical tape and wrap it around the outlet, a couple of times, to cover the screws, and to do the same with each wire nut connection, as a safety measures. I've heard both pros and cons to this approach but when it comes to electricity I'll take all the safety precautions I can.
I was gonna add the same suggestion. If you do this, it should go without saying, please use a good quality electrical tape, not dollar store electrical tape and also keep in mind that even the best tape will get a bit dry and stiff after several years, so when working in the box go ahead and remove old dry brittle tape and wrap again with new.
Shouldn't be needed, it is usually done when wiring before the drywall goes in so the drywall guys can safely pull out the switches and receptacles
I've lived in 1950s houses all my life and it seems that some combinations of outlets and boxes have far less clearance than others. I had one outlet on which, if I pushed the socket to the side hard enough, the hot screw would short to the metal box and needless to say, I wrapped that in tape. On the other hand, this is probably a non-issue with plastic boxes.
Chicago we always apply real electrical tape stretching in the direction tightening the wire nut. Also tape around the outlet covering the screws
My new house had a number of wiring mistakes. The power for the septic was wired for 240V instead of 120V but that was fixed when the septic was hooked up. The builder provided a RV hookup but the electrician wired a 120V RV outlet to 240V and the inspector did not catch it and a lot of stuff was destroyed when I plugged my RV. The den had two outlets that were not hooked up and another outlet did not have a cover plate. The house passed the inspection so the city/county electrical inspector is as incompetent as the electrician was. The moral is never trust a contractor to do anything right and never rely on an inspection to insure safety. In other words if you want something done right do it yourself. I will add that I am 79 years old and I have never had a contractor do a job correctly in my entire life.
I agree 100%. Contractors are there to make money and will take as many shortcuts as possible at the homeowners expense. I'm sure the inspector never ever looked at it and just signed off.
I found a lot of sketchy wiring in my house. Some dangerous and some silly.
The garage (compressor, freezer, openers, power-tool land) shares one breaker with the den (computer & Hi-Fi land).
Romex through the siding, hiding wire-nuts, to power outdoor light fixtures.
Beyond electrical, my rear brake-line burst from rust about a week after a state licensed inspection.
Best not to be too trusting when it comes to life.
I don't doubt it. I have seen too much sloppy work by incompetent electricians. I am 70+.
Mo
I am no certified electrician but I have wired a number of electrical outlets. However, your method makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the tip, and may God continue to bless you richly.
I'm a retired electrician! I was a residential ,and commercial service call electrician for 20 years. The things I've seen in homes, blew my mind! I also ran commercial and industrial jobs for many years.
I did a lot of residential wiring and repairs and I saw lots of bad wiring. I remember 2 apartment house that I refused to do any work for the owner. Told him they were firetraps and I didn't want my fingerprints on anything in the building.
DIY here and I learned something new again about box extenders. I've never seen them before and wish I had when doing some previous upgrades to a past trailer home. Looks like a great way to help prevent possible fires. Thanks for the tips.
Box extenders are great! There are also little plastic tabs that come in strips of six or eight. You tear off one to three of the tabs, fold them Z-fashion, and place them between the device ears and the box so that the device is not recessed back from the face plate. (A gap between the plate and the device is against code.) But the tabs do not correct the problem of a gap between the device and the wall. The extenders take care of both problems.
Great video and also I want to say thank you for being teachable! If we TH-camrs all take the advice of the licensed, more experience folks and then disseminate that information back to the viewers we'll all grow together as a community! I'm in the process of buying an old house and your videos along with the comments, have been very helpful in my planning.
As a carpenter for 35+ years, jack of all trades, master of none, I agree with all your recommendations 110%. I have done all of these on all remodeling projects and even my own home. Great content and thank you.
My dad was an industrial electrician. Always taught me to tightly twist the pigtail ends together, even scoring them with the lineman pliers before turning on the wire nut tightly. Then neatly fold the wires into the box. I keep a soft wood stick, like a paint stirrer, in my toolbox to help push the wires in and not damage the insulation. Through my many years of house renovations I have been amazed at some of the sloppy workmanship in receptacle & switch boxes... amazed because even those worked!
"Worked" at all, or worse!
Worked, but usually have black scorched marks.
One outlet I found last year in a 14 year old house, hot wires on light circuit were loosely twisted and no wire nut. The black wires were extra black about 1/2" from twist. The chandelier had 14 60w bulbs, so it was a significant load. Also, it was wired with 3 way switch and travelers, but homeowner friend had no knowledge of a 2nd switch for this entry light, nor could I find one. And this wasn't a cheap house.
I'll bet your dad also taught you to first connect the ground and get that flat to the back of the the box. I seen a guy put the ground on last and use the screws to force the receptacle. The ground was right there on the power side. Yup! He popped the breaker immediately. It was worth the extra 20 minutes to let him experience it to understand the full error.
Your old man taught you right.
This is a great channel! I just found it and already bookmarked several more to watch ASAP. As some others have mentioned, I really appreciate how you keep the video's "clean" from all the fancy sounds, background music or other elements that so often take away from the video. Sub'd!
You explain every issue, and the subset details, extremely well. My hope is that young marrieds who have just bought their first home will track your teaching closely. Great job!
I've been a Licensed electrician for 15 years, and I must say you absolutely nailed best practice on receptacle installations. I have shown apprentices the exact methods you used. Pre-twist wires, always use screw terminals, and pig-tail your connections.
Great job.
I used to think the way you do... until I discovered Wagor Electrical Connectors. Those are the biggest innovation in electrical wiring EVER!!!!! Check em' out
@@davids7209 the Wagos with the actuated arms are okay, but a little large for device boxes in my opinion. The wago "quick connect" type are just as garbage as sticking a wire into the push connectors in the back of a receptacle.
Look at how the connector engages the wire (a single tooth). Understand that that single tiny contact point is what your load current is flowing through, and why that type of connection often overheats and fails.
@@davids7209 its wago not wagor and they are too big sometimes
@@evrlastngcherry7727 Thank you grammar nazi! Ever mispell something by accident? Freakin unbelievable!
@@davids7209 no I don't
As a professional that did remodeling for over 4 decades, I can attest to the failure rate of the push in connections. Almost every time I was called about a smoking or arcing receptacle it was the push in that was at fault. I know it's easier to use, but I highly recommend anyone wiring receptacles or switches to use the screws on the sides. It makes for a much better connection and will give you some peace of mind about your work being done properly.
If they are so prone to failure then how do they pass UL? I'm assuming it is because people use them incorrectly more often, like not enough conductor exposed, or worn conductor inserted that doesn't make full connection? There could be selection bias here - more people using them are either in a hurry or amateurs and hence less careful. If you get the same people to use backwire connections they may make as many mistakes.
Really I think if people seem to fail to use them correctly that often code should just be changed to outlaw them, or new failsafe ones designed. When you look at the design of UK outlets and plugs (standardized around the 1970s) it's amazing how primitive and unsafe the US standard ones are!
Homeowner here, but I can also attest to the failure of the "push-in" connectors (my electrician called it "back-stabbing"). The constant stress/strain on this particular (high-use) outlet finally caused one of the wires to pop out the back.
@@enmodo now why would anyone accept the opinion of the underwriters laboratory when you can depend on the opinions of random electricians on TH-cam lol?
@Peter Evans WoW, another random TH-cam expert who enjoys insulting random strangers on social media.
@Peter Evans don’t you have anything else to do than spout your sarcasm and insults - get a hobby lol
For paying attention to detail and looks nice, have the screw slot on the face plate screw, running up and down to match the slots on the receptacle. Do this with switches as well. When you have a multi gang, having the screw slots running up and down like the receptacle/ toggle switches looks clean
Really? Sounds like OCD. Why not horizontal, nothing clean about switches or toilet handles? Torque till snug and not past when tightening gives no further turn. With plastic this lighter than metal plates. Ground at the top, wipe off that smiley face icon too.
Hello Scott...I just watched this Jan 2023...I need to replace a lot of outlets because they don't hold the male plugs anymore. I started in the kitchen, 20 Amp circuits, the first faceplate I removed, voila, the blank terminal screws were backed out, they are original. The house was built in 1998, I'm in TN. Thanks for this video and all the great info you put out.
Great vid. As a retired Master Electrical contractor from Boston, MA... this is one of the best vids showing how it should be done. Thank you and , if I ever saw one of my guys using push ins, he was gone.SOO many callbacks from them.
Just replaced burned receptacles wired w/push ins (tripped breaker repeatedly). Exposed wire issue - 1/8 - 3/16” w/burn marks - other receptacle in 3-way same issue! Wired by builder’s electrician. (I’m original owner of home).
Licensed NY electrician. Great video! I noticed the receptacle you replaced was fed with red wire. Since your audience might include non-professionals, you should point out that even though the circuit for that receptacle was off, there might be another circuit sharing that same neutral and the danger it poses. Again very good video.
@Michael Claypool This might be a multiwire branch circuit that @Veloci3 Twenty is referring to in passing. The multiwire branch circuit is a cheap and nasty way some electricians run two circuits with a single 4 conductor romex cable (like a 14/3). The two hots (red and black) go to a breaker each (on different bus bars), and the white is shared between the two circuits. While it is not against most codes, it is considered a "in code" bad practice by many and should be avoided as it might put too much load on the single neutral as well as creating a live wire situation (when one side is switched off and someone expects the white wire to be not carrying any load). This danger is real and occurs if the hot wires are moved in the breaker box so they are on the same wiring bus. A common mistake would be to put the two hot wires on a tandem breaker switch not knowing these wires are sharing a neutral. This is why the two wires in the breaker box need to be identified, connected to separate poles, and they need to have a tie between the switches so they are tripped simultaneously if one side goes.
The only reason electricians use this is to save money on wire and labor on running one wire instead of 2 wires. a single length of 14/3 is cheaper than 2 lengths of 14/2.
@@DarkTouch
Actually, at the big box stores there isn't a huge difference in price between buying 25 ft of 14/3 and buying 50 ft. of 14/2.
As of today 25 ft. of 14/3 cost $25.68 at Lowe's. Compare that to 50 ft. of 14/2 for $27.98. So for $2.30 more you're effectively getting 25 ft. of 14/4 w 2 grounds. The extra wire can provide a required neutral in a three way switch box.
@@DarkTouch there's nothing wrong with it. Tie the two breakers together so if one trips, the other would as well. There would be nothing on the neutral if they're both open. I also like to label in the box, in case it isn't obvious, the two circuits share a neutral. Saves a conductor, ground, extra insulation, and a second run. That's my preference if it isn't going to be a high load receptacle or usage.
@@etherealrose2139 you are absolutely correct, and if you look closer there is no black wire present. Many higher end cities require a house to be in conduit, no romex allowed. Which in this case is what I believe is happening. They used a red wire due to the phase it is associated.
@@DarkTouch In a Edison circuit ( two hots one neutral ) when done correctly as in one hot on each "phase " it is impossible to overload the neutral . If you have 20 amps on one hot 0 amps on the other you then have 20 amps on the neutral if you then load the other hot lets say with 8 amps the neutral would have only 12 amps. - Two 15 amp loads the neutral would be 0 amps as current would divide by OHMS LAW .
I’m an electrician and I want to start with a big THANK YOU for hooking the wires and not stabbing them. That’s a pet peeve of mine and so is pigtailing receptacles. Their are only two things I would add; whenever I change or install a receptacle, I always use a 20A, and a safety wrap of tape on the terminal screws. 20 amp receptacles are not much more money and can take much more use. When I install receptacles, I pigtail them and wrap electrical tape to cover all the screws so no metal is exposed, THEN I splice them in with the wires in the box. Makes for a safer install with very little extra effort. Thank you.
I have always wrapped tape around the receptacle also
So if you use 20 amp receptacles do you also use 20 amp breakers? 12 Guage minimum?
@@timhick6 yessir. 12 gauge for 20 amp receptacles,14 gauge on 15 amp for lighting. That’s typical indoor lighting, not big, MH - or similar - lighting for outdoors. I’ve seen it done but I don’t like when lighting and power are on the same circuit. Penny wise and pound foolish.
Always great info. The twisting the wires before applying the wire nut is so important. I have had wires slide out of wire nuts in the way long ago past. Also, if u don’t pigtail the neutral, this disaster can happen and it happened to me. I was replacing a receptacle without turning the power off, and I cut the stabbed neutrals. Guess what happened next. Several receptacles downstream went 220. Burned up a TV, the transformer in the furnace and a couple of ceiling fans. The worst part was my reputation. They still remember it twenty years later. On that same note, if the power goes out, and u decide to back feed a generator into a 220 receptacle, B SURE TO HOOK UP THE GENERATOR NEUTRAL!!!! If u don’t, many if not all of the 110 receptacles will become 220 receptacles. That one was expensive and embarrassing.
Some people might “try this at home” and find it is very difficult not realizing some boxes are shallow and some are deep. Box depth should be talked about in one of your videos.
Box extenders are a quick and dirty way around a busy junction box situation where you simply need more room to properly fix wiring issues. If the box is down by floor level, it won’t be noticed at all.
If you actually follow code about the free wire I find the shallow boxes to be infuriating unless they are the end of the line, and probably also against the crowding code. Just go bigger. 4" with mud ring. I don't really understand people trying to save money on materials when labor dominates all costs anyway.
@@trygveskogsholm5963 Speaking of saving costs for little reason, I also HIGHLY recommend using 12AWG instead of 14AWG. Especially on small projects such as a new edition on the house even if it’s not required by code. For just a few dollars extra you not only have peace of mind but you leave option open for a very easy and simple transition to 20 amp outlets if ever needed. For things like a window A/C or space heater. My last totally awesome tip is you should consider old work boxes even when building new work. This is great for two reasons. One is that you have more freedom to precisely place your outlet in a more desired location because you can locate the box anywhere between studs. ( Worked for me when I wanted my toaster outlet in the right spot.) And Two, that if you ever need to upgrade the box later such as a hard wired clock or hard wired under cabinet lights, you can easily unmount the old work box then remove it, then reach your hand in behind the wall to pull your new wires.
@@wheelie642 I agree totally. Especially places you have more load, kitchens, garages and even bathrooms. May as well do the entire house when you are building!
@@jthonn It’s another good idea to run a dedicated feed to the bathroom for a high end bidet seat that has heated water. They require a dedicated outlet. Bidet seats are inexpensive compared to high cost bidet toilets. Those bidet toilets are useless without warm water for your butt. A high end bidet seat with heated water and blow dry. That’s the ticket! Search Brondell
As a retired safety person, when checking the electrical outlets for power it is best to first check the electrical tester (whatever type being used) on a known "hot" outlet, then next check the outlet that you are going to work on and then again check another "hot" outlet. This will tell you if your outlet is really not energized. The reason, what if your electrical tester is bad or it just blew out.
Also you can try to live by rule use work with one hand in your pocket when you handle anything in the box, esp. when you pull the outlet out of the box... if there are other circuits junctioned in there that are energized, you don't want to have the current hit you through the heart, vs. the hand.
Thats what a multimeter is for. Non contact voltage and double check to see if there is any voltage. Easy.
@@robertlaw4073 If there are any other circuits in there you test them all, you can not effectively do the work with one hand. That advice is good for some work in breaker boxes though where you can do some of it single handed.
@@phillhuddleston9445 I've seen more than a few people who "test" the circuit by trying to trip it, meaning they touch the wire to a ground. Let's be frank, that happens, and those guys are still walking around because they do that with 1 hand in their pocket.
@@robertlaw4073 Maybe but that's like running across a highway when there is light traffic, better to not run across a highway at all.
All three of those points were spot on! I have never used the push in connections. It may be ok according to code and have the UL stamp of approval for usage, but I have seen time and time again that these connections become lose and overheated especially when a max draw load is placed on the circuit such as a heater or kitchen appliance. I've lost count of how many times I have run into heat discolored wires that have been wired using this option. I started wiring when I was 14, shadowing my stepdad and by the time I was a senior in high school I could wire a house by myself. The first two points I figured out very early on in my experience. The last one though, the pigtail I wasn't shown that until I was around 40 (I'm 57 now) There are two great reasons to use pigtails. The first is that you have less wires on a receptacle, which makes it easier to work on and replace in the future and also to get the receptacle pushed back in the box, but I feel that the second reason is even more important. If a plug fails from overheating, cracking or just breaks down from age, having the pigtail option ensures that you don't lose a bunch of receptacles down the line. I will also add that when I make up pigtails I make the wires at least 12 inches long, then I make the connection with the wirenuts and then push those back into the box and then make up the connections to the receptacle. Nothing is more irritating than working on an outlet where the wires are too short. Also of note, there is a way to S-fold the wires so that they easily spring back into the box and naturally come back out when the receptacle needs to be worked on in the future. There is another subject that comes up and that is not having too much pressure on the wires trying to push back out. The mounting screws should never be used to try to push the wires in. Nice job on the video!
Assuming the exception to pig tails is when you have a GFI outlet with another outlet downstream. This is the config near my bathroom vanity with an outlet at each end. The GFI is on the first outlet in the series but will trip for either outlet if overloaded.
Correct, for standard duplex receptacles downstream that you want protected by the GFCI you would wire into the "load" terminals on the GFCI. 👍
When I was a professional electrician, about 90% of my service calls were related to the wires being pushed in to the switches or receptacles. It became so common that it was often the first thing that I checked. I will never use that option on any devices that I install.
90% my ass
@@aaronsbraga LOL
@@aaronsbraga I sense much anger in you. Who shoved their 12 gauge wire into your push-in connector?
@@docferringer im a 8 gauge and had to use klein tool lubricant 32 % once on him, tight fit
Very true. I also use receptacle that cost at least 2$, (Paulding, Leviton, et/al) versus the 50 cent chinese receptacles. The condescending fuck-mooks who replied to your correct statement have never replaced a receptacle, much less wired a house or commercial building.
Friends had an older mobile home that developed electrical issues. I found that the push in connections had begun going flaky, replaced the old outlets. One bad push in connection will impact everything downstream of that receptacle. I have always j hooked the wires as this preserves circuit integrity. Although I have had residential electrical training, pigtailing at the receptacle was not covered but makes sense especially with push in connections..
The only thing shittier in a mobile home than its water system is its electrical system.The manufacturers (Usually in Elkhart Indiana) use anyone with a body temperature of 98 degrees. Usually with an IQ about HALF that high. And OVERpay 'em about 2.50 an hour.
Outstanding video! You completely changed the way i will be wiring my electrics. I thought the push in was the easy and newest way of doing business. Liked your pigtail technique also. So much cleaner and easier. Great job!
You're welcome!
Wow! I can't believe you would do such a nice thing for us to explain this. Rather than being scared I can't wait to tackle this (after studying even more!) when I close on my house!
Thank for clearing that question that's rarely rarely asked !
Pig tail is so simplistic now !👍
5:48 Great recommendation for using a box extender, I also always but some tapes all around the receptacle to cover the screws.
Yeah, I was waiting for him to say that.
I replaced the outlets in my doublewide which was made in 1996 when my dad bought it in 2017.
Pretty much all outlets were wired using the push in terminals and many didn't even have screw terminals.
I used the better quality back wire outlets.
Feel much better about things as I know I won't have any issues from loose connections.
This was exactly my problem! Downstream outlets would inexplicably turn off and on, paid $200 for electricians to come out & find nothing, and then my wife noticed the lights blinked on and off when she plugged the vacuum cleaner into our 30-year old residential grade outlet. Popped it out and saw the hot pass-through wire had worked its way loose, so you were spot on! I'm going to upgrade the outlet & do the suggested pigtail connections.
Might be worth checking the other outlets.
I'm an electrician & you did great. That's how I always put in outlets
If there are two hot wires and two neutral wires, why not hook each one on each nut and avoid the extra pigtail wire?
@@keithdygert1120 - While that is an allowable method, your circuit continuity runs through the receptacle. If one of the connections or the device itself fails, all downstream power is lost, whereas it is maintained with a pigtail.
There are plenty of arguments for one method over the other. Personally, I generally find it easier and quicker to swap out a pigtailed device because I am dealing with less wire to pull out and push back in. Sometimes, especially on older houses with shallow boxes, box fill can be an issue that prevents the use of pigtails.
exactly especially when a plug gets covered by drywall and you don't notice, at lease everything will work since its all tied through lol but in commercial I always run pigtails since your typically using 12 awg and its not fun doing trim and landing every wire. Or to fix that I don't pigtail if its 1 or 2 wire and get the better outlets that have a screw type connection and not the ones you have to make a little hooks.
One point to keep in mind with pig tails is that the addition in some codes (can only speak for Canada) of the 2 wire nuts can put you over your box fill limits for number of conductors in the box.
I always put the ground lug up, not down. Was recommended in the 1996 code on a trial basis. They subsequently did not require it in the US. I still do it because if a plug is partially out of the wall, the only way to connect the hot and the neutral is by moving some metallic object UP. Gravity won't cause a short. The first thing a metallic object hits is the **ground lug.**
So do they require the ground lug up or down in Canada? Technically, the wire nuts also contribute to the wire fill. But they do not count a wire that starts and ends in the box, i.e. pigtails or ground wire to the metal box.
Poor Wagos...
@@ricoludovici2825 I got the impression, that was the initial design idea, and the world did to cotton to that concept.
@@mmoser9483 Back when electric was first being installed, they mounted the [ungrounded] receptacles horizontally. I don't know why they change b/c that way you could not short across the hot and neutral with a foreign object either.
@@mmoser9483 Don't weep for Wagos.
The pigtail option is definitely the way to go but I have found many boxes with out enough internal volume for the large wire nut/marrette connectors (looks like #35). also you could point out the wire folding techniques that make the most of the room that you have
@D. Lindsay - I don't know that it's rare, all the boxes in my house are about 10 cubic inches each, about 3" x 1.75" x 1.75". Expect that was pretty common in the 1950s. I had one outlet box short out after 60 years because the pressure of the box ground screw on the insulation finally caused it to short through the insulation. So how do I fix a broken wire when the box was already too small and now I need another wire nut?
In addition to what has already been brought to "light"! I have encountered a situation where the electrician wired through each receptacle in series. At the last receptacle a heater had been plugged in on the enclosed porch. One of the tenants stated that the receptacle next to her bed was getting very warm (hot) in fact in a plastic box. This receptacle was closest to the sub-panel and wiring was correct however because of the series method of wiring, all of the power drawn beyond the first receptacles went through each receptacle creating a real hazard. When I pulled my three prong tester out, the receptacle came out with the tester because of the heat in the (plastic) box. Never wire in series if it can be avoided...
That is fascinating. Never thought about how electrical works but that’s a great example of what they were talking about here. Gives it another “why”.
Spot on advice. I am an electrician. If you do it the way recommended in the video, you will not only have less problems going forward, but you will also have less expense in troubleshooting for why a receptacle stopped working and less expense in repairing it also. If one outlet stops working, the problem is in the outlet itself or it's direct connection to the circuit. I often go to service calls involving multiple outlets that have stopped working. I end up spending a few hours sometimes, taking outlets and switches out of the wall, looking for a point of failure, while trying to figure out which way the cabling is routed, to isolate the exact spot of the failure. Also with new arc fault equipment, using push in connections will increase the likelihood of tripping an arc fault breaker.I will go one step further in saying the safest non pigtailed connection is two wires behind one plate of a backwire capable receptacle. As long as the wires are both the same size and it is tight, it is adequate. Space heaters should really go on a dedicated circuit if possible.
Can pushins cause random breaker tripping?
@@johnnygizmo1130 , random isn't an ideal word to adequately describe the reason push in connections cause eventual tripping. If the connection is continuous, then there will be no arcing. If there is a bad connection, it will arc, and this can cause intermittent tripping of a normal breaker eventually and lose of power at some devices if it doesn't trip. I have seen both things happen. If it is an arc fault breaker. You are all but assured to have a tripped breaker problem until the connection issue is resolved.
@@johnnygizmo1130 it's not random. There must be a load somewhere along that circuit. The breaker can open because loose connections can cause a current surge, though it may not be enough to open the circuit. That's why you don't use push in... intermittent arcing from a bad connection creates hot spots, spalling, and could lead to melting and fires. If the breaker keeps opening, find out why, don't keep closing the breaker. Although they're made to last, breakers also fail so you don't need to hasten that by having the flip off and on constantly.
Nice to see a joe blow who’s showing corrections to his mistakes taught on previous videos, however, it goes to show the number of erroneous techniques people are learning by googling DIYs and How Tos.
Recently replaced a 15 amp outlet with a 20 amp and also install another 15 amp outlet. Your videos helped me not make mistakes or do anything excessively stupid, thanks. I’m 17 and had never done any electrical work in my life beyond basic automotive stuff
It’s nice to see you illustrating proper wiring technique. I live in SE Pa. and I’ve seen some butcher electricians in my 35 years in house construction.
We, my wife and I, built our house in 1996. I am a carpenter. I hired a ‘professional’ electrician I knew and worked on new construction with. As we have been updating/remodeling our house I’ve realized the electrician I hired originally was a BUTCHER! As an example, he wired the microwave outlet off of another outlet and during Christmas, if our tree lights were on and ran the microwave the breaker would blow. By code the microwave needs to be on a dedicated circuit, he knew this but roughed in so it was convenient and not code.
These electricians have Electrical inspectors who they know and are their ‘friends’ inspect the rough in.
I’ve seen this time and time again in my area.
Now, I’m no electrician but in my experience, my advice is hire a reputable electrician and have some carnal knowledge of code.
Bird dog the contractor, insure it’s wired correctly and safely!
🤣I think you meant "current knowledge" of code! (Carnal knowledge is quite different!😉)
I like the fact that you tell how the backstabbed connection are UL approved but still not as safe as the screws. The same thing could be said about pre twisting wires- that is not required by the documentation that comes with the wire nuts but it still makes the connection more secure.
I have never used the "backstabbed" connection - it has always seemed like a bad idea.
@@peterkizer6163 always hard to remove them.
@@Joe-by8jh exactly why we don't use them
@@Joe-by8jh wago lever nuts are better design and wires can be removed. I have no issues with the lever nuts, 222 or 221.
I don’t normally use backstabbed connections either, but it’s a myth they’re inferior. The are NOT “safer” and they are also NOT “less reliable” unless you’re overloading them or did something else wrong on the install (nick a conductor for instance. In fact, expansion/contraction around that screw is much more likely to cause an intermittent connection and start arcing than a backstab connection, especially if a DIYer doesn’t know what the correct torque feels like. The reason to pigtail inline connections is so you’re not constantly passing current through a device. I always do it on new work. However there are times you simply do not have enough wire space in the box to pigtail everything. Especially in multi-gang boxes. Running in unused screws is a good idea. and I’d add you should also wrap the device with a cpl layers of electrical tape. Makes it much safer to work on.
We're having a new house built, and though I already knew much of what they cover, your videos about electrical outlets, etc., have been great reminders for what to keep an eye on during construction. Thanks!
Oh yeah, micro manage the tradesman. That’ll go over well😂🤣
@@Notyou69420- Micro managing is constantly looking over one's shoulder. I don't think that's what he meant. I see nothing wrong with the home owner doing their own inspection of the work when it's done. After all, they will be the one living in the house, not the tradesman. ;-)
@@chuckm260 if you are the GC (and are actually knowledgeable, not just trying to save money) then fine. If not, this is what you are paying the GC for so stay out of the way and let them do their job.
sounds like a good way to get fired as a client.don't micromanage your tradesmen if you're not qualified to do the work yourself, watching a few youtube videos doesn't make you knowledgeable on subjects that take people 5 year apprenticeships which includes schooling to learn.
@@jordanadams5902 My old man was an electrical for a few years and he taught me a lot. I've been doing my own electrical work at home for decades, so yes, I'm considerably more knowledgeable than someone who has just watched a couple of videos. I'm not talking about micromanaging anyone, but I don't want builder grade junk in a house I'm spending several hundred thousand dollars on.
Pig tail, excellent idea. I also wrap the screw connectors with electrical tape.
Ok me again, two things I want to contribute. 1st is that I saw on one of the push in wires. It looked like the insulation was stripped with the wrong size on the wire stripper. As a result there is a cut in the wire. this effectively reduces the wire gauge at that point and reduces the current carrying capacity. Secondly was the stuffing of the wires into the box. Its a small point but I like to point the wire nuts facing up. Why? just in case for some reason water gets into the box (broken pipe, inside the wall leak from the roof, overflowing sink etc.). I just thing its a simple thing to do and could potentially stop a water leak from becoming LIVE..
The reason I agree with your third point is that it leaves the outlets down-line in service if that outlet fails. Not because there are multiple contacts to the outlet. Good videos and tips!
good point
I don't understand. Even if the outlet fails the wires are still connected to each other.
Several years ago, in a spec house in CA, my son tried to remove a broken light bulb shell from a ceiling fan and forgot to turn off the switch. He created a short that blew a back-stabbed hot wire out of an outlet in our bedroom on the other side of the house! We lost power in our bedroom but it did not trip the breaker. After that I went and installed pigtails on every outlet in the house.
Yes on the pigtails! I didn't think of that. Always struggled getting stacked Shepard's hooks to tighten down properly, especially one solid and one stranded.
Back stabbing is so irritating. Most of the receptacles in my house were old Leviton that accepted 12 AWG for back stabs. Seems like half of them just pulled out when I was replacing them.
I thought the shepherd's hook should curve clockwise, in the direction of the clamp down screw. One of the hot leads was -- as best I could see in the video -- curved the other way, which tends to push the hook a little out from under the screw head.
Hey Louis, you are right that clockwise is the way to go. Might have been hard to see but the receptacle in the video had the hooks running clockwise. One side use the top screw and the other used the bottom which might have been throwing you off. Thanks!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thank you for the reply. As I said, "as best I could see," which obviously wasn't very well.
He does have a picture at 2:47 showing just that recommendation.
Which is why I use Hubbel with the compression clamps. Strip to the correct length, insert wire, clamp, done. Always gets full contact.
The compression clamps work fine with stranded wires, but I would prefer to hook a solid wire around the screw.. solid wire doesn’t compress well.
We bought a home with a blown out GFCI and cold kitchen circuit receptacles. After moving in I found the LINE was wired to LOAD terminals and the LOAD was wired to the LINE terminals. Unbelievable negligence from the builder's electrician but only a $10 DIY fix.
many residential electricians are unlicensed and often forced to work as self employed so the contractor can deny liability and force the "employee" to provide all their own tools and safety gear. Not all of them, but it is a pretty common setup these days.
Incredible how many people wire the plugs in backward. Once found house breaker box with one side swapped hot and neutral. Guy was wondering why his lights were all blowing out when he turned them on.
@@drewroberts9488 i have also seen this , because they don't what to pay an licensed electrician
Thanks for the tips on the pigtails and box extender! Much appreciated tips for us DIY'ers.
Great information !!! Something also worth mentioning is to ensure you use the PROPER SIZE wire nut for each scenario. I often find myself needing a trade size 35 wire nut when twisting more than two wires together. The wire nut boxes and container labels should say the combination of wire numbers and sizes that are appropriate for the particular size wire nut the installer is considering. A good guide is that twisting together three wires, including a pigtail wire, you can be pretty safe using a 35. Of course even bigger wire means possibly needing even bigger than a 35. But, at that point, it’s likely that a do-it-yourselfer is performing an electrical task they shouldn’t. Cheers from 🇨🇦
"wire nut boxes and container labels should say the combination of wire numbers and sizes that are appropriate" they don't? Last I checked the ones I bought did state that.
If you want to take your wiring skills to the next level, always close down your hook around the terminal screw with needle-nose pliers.You can make the loop into a circle that is close to 360 degrees, the conductor can never work loose unless the terminal screw is completely unscrewed. It takes a few more seconds, but it's what separates the knowing from the unknowing.
That's absolutely true; also no chance the hook in the wire will be pushed away from the axis of the screw when tightening it.
unnecessary, especially when you have to do 75+ receptacles in a day
@@mipr4440 It isn't unnecessary and is irrespective of the number of outlets needing to be wired. What other corners do you cut in the name of expediency?
@@larrydaniels6532 my friend it is certainly unnessesary to pull out the needle nose pliers every time you wire a device. As an electrician myself after doing thousands of connections you get pretty good at it. If youre an inexperienced homeowner by all means crimp down every hook because you probably fucked up. All I know is I have connected thousands of devices over the years and never been back to a site to fix a single one of them, hbu?
@@mipr4440 I can understand by your reply that you are a very "average individual", probably little or no higher education. My original comment stated that this method is a step above average. Assuming that a person is "fucking up" by doing a procedure that most master electricians were taught as apprentices shows both a lack of knowledge and logic.
In case no one has mentioned. I always wrap all receptacles and switches with electrical tape around to prevent accidental shorts from the screws on the sides to the box.
I was taught that too, but have yet to actually replace one of my own receptacles!
@@Hello.alexis.speaking I've come across receptacles done up that way. They seem to hold well, only downside I can see is the receptacle and wires are a sticky mess after you remove the tape but generally you're replacing the receptacle anyway if you are digging that deep into the tape.
@@ragnarok7976 I’m updating some in my house so I gotta do it right!
Certainly not necessary, but a good practice, especially in a particularly tight tight metal box.
It's somewhat unnecessary if the box is plastic. If it's an older metal box, and if appropriate for code, I recommend using a plastic box extender instead of wrapping with electrical tape. Both with safeguard against arching and shorting, but wrapping takes longer and is less convenient.
Excellent tips. I'm no electrician but I grew up round one. These were some of the first things I was taught as a kid and those blasted push ins are a constant fight between my father-in-law and I. He thinks screw terminals take too much time 🤦🏻♂️
They do take too much time, and the push ins work or they wouldn’t be available in the first place.
I am a 35 year, now retired electrician, VERY well done!!
I have always been told to point the wire nuts to opposite ends of the box. so your white facing up and black or hot pointing down tucked into the corner of the box. that way if the wire nut ever starts to back off it will be held in place.
Huh, I like that tip. Man the hits keep coming. Appreciate the feedback. 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs One thing I do is I wrap the connectors w/elec.tape. I know it's unnecessary and overkill, but the next guy will be ae o be more casual and I am probably gonna be the next guy. I always work live so I can see what is what.
BY connectors I meant the screws, not the wire nuts.
Not being a professional electrician, myself and a fellow EE wired my house when we built it. Thank you for demonstrating how it is done properly, especially the pigtails, which carry the series load and not the Wally World P(eices) OS. I used all Hubble hospital grade receptacles. Later on several times guests have asked me why my receptacles are a fumy color.
While I applaud your right to overkill. He was talking about receptacles bought at the 99 cent store two-for-a-dollar. I would never use those but commercial grade is plenty good. No need to get Space Shuttle grade receptacles IMHO.
Hospital grade has a green dot on the face and is stamped “hospital grade.” They can easily be obtained in standard white with the green dot. The color you have, whatever it may be could be depicting additional info like orange “isolated ground” or red “emergency cct” or grey “UPS power”. I just want people to know that hospital grade isn’t simply depicted by “funny colors”
Why spend 8 bucks per hospital grade outlets, just use industrial, but why even spend the extra money when you go not need to. I perfer to use Pass and Seymour over Leviton for residential mainly due to the construction of the blades which grab the prongs tighter!
Thank you for the last recommendation; the pigtail installation. At first I thought, “what difference would it make?”. When you mentioned “cleanliness” at the end I realized that was a great recommendation. Not to mention it could make “flushing” the outlet against the wall easier.
Its not just cleanliness or neatness. Its a code requirement on the neutral side. If you lose the neutral bad things happen. This guy is pretty good but he is not an electrician. But he is trying to help and is honest....
Thanks. Love the demos. I changed a ceiling fan last week. The house was built in1995 by "pro electricians". Well, they didn't have the termination in a box. Fan mounting plate was mounted to a joist and wire was stapled to joist.
Had an intermittent problem with part of a circut, traced it to a push-in connection of an outlet. Some minor oxidation caused the internal spring action of the push-in to lock up, the exposed copper lead was loose and came out with no effort.
I’m a retired contractor, I can’t begin to tell you how many times I’ve found plug ins that’s failed with electrical wires pushed in those easy holes in the back of the plug in rather then using the screws on the side properly. Thing people don’t realize or understand is those holes on the back only have a very thin piece of metal making contact with their electrical wires and less contact with their wires create excessive heat especially under a heavy load and it’s the potential of a fire just waiting to happen using those holes. Many of these plug ins that’s failed using these holes shows where excessive heat on the back of the plug ins have actually melted and black residue inside the box from wires casings starting to burn. Most don’t start fires but I have seen some that has! It’s just not worth the risk of a fire to save a little time and effort using those holes on the back of the plug ins rather then wrapping your wires around the screws on the side of the plug ins to make sure your wires have as much contact with the metal screws as possible to keep from having heat from being built up from a bad contact with your wires! I honestly can’t believe that using those holes on the back of the plug ins meets code, nor should they be UL approved in my opinion either! But I’ve learned over the years just cause a product says it’s UL approved doesn’t mean in the least that the product is safe! I had numerous UL approved space heaters over the years I’ve used that has had the wire that plugs into the walls plug in get so hot that the wires melted and started a small fire on my floor after using the heater only a few hours for a month or so. If you use space heaters it’s always a good idea to check the plug in wire coming out of the heater to see if it’s hot or not? If it’s hot I would not use it any longer and if the plug in wired using those holes on the back just adding to the risk of having a fire in your house!
That is almost always true. There are however an entire line of push-in receptacles that are built with the concern you have brought up and have a half inch (maybe it's a cm) of surface contact that pinches the wire. Much better at keeping current and circuit use. The only issue now is that some people don't understand the use of one metal to avoid electrolysis.
I’ve talked with numerous electricians that’s warned me more then once to absolutely never use those holes simply cause there’s only two very thin pieces of metal that’s actually making any contact with your electrical wires! If it was thick where it made contact with the wires I highly doubt there be enough give in the metal that grabs your electrical wires to actually grab and hold the wires! As I said earlier, I’ve seen far too many electrical plugs fail using those holes including some recently that were just on the verge of catching fire when they failed. Considering the potential of the damages and even the possibility of loss of life by a house fire! I certainly wouldn’t risk using those holes for any reason! I’ve personally been thru a house fire loosing everything I owned. You don’t really realize how devastating a house fire can be till you’re lived thru one!
@@ghostridergale Not all receptacles are built the same. Some are actually built with the concept of making as much contact as possible by not using the edge of the metal but similar to a slide in with a biting edge, quite ingenious really. Thing is they are not easy to find, not cheap and plenty of pretenders.
@@Joe-by8jh Yes, WAGO, I totally agree. It really doesn;t matter if there is at least one guy on the internet espousing the advantages of WAGO even if the premise seems to be it's being used in such low current capacity that it's somehow okay. I don't buy that, and I don't think anyone else should either. The more surface area to transmit electrons the better.
You make very good points with this video and agree with you whole heartedly. I worked as an electrician doing new tract home construction. The main reason (not that it is right or Correct) is the time it takes to make up each receptacle or switch. Most finish electricians are paid peace work. In other words, the more you do in a day the more money you make. It takes more time to create Pig-tales, as do "J" or Shepards Hooks and side wiring. It is very quick to strip and push the wires into the back wire connections. I was the foreman that had to "Wring the houses out" I would go through the house after the work was done, and make sure everything worked as it was supposed to. If I found a problem it was up to me to troubleshoot and correct. Using the back wire (Push in) connections were often time problematic. I would find problems with receptacles not working due to loss of Neutral or Hot connections causing a dead circuit, sometimes two or three receptacles away from the one that was dead. The correction was to do a pigtail and side wire. That would take care of the issue at least until another issue came up downstream at a later time, and that would be fixed under warranty if called on it. Some of the things I saw doing this job would make your head burst. Romex cable "Homeruns" pulled across the top of the live bus bars in panels because the contractor was trying to save money on wire. Many may have heard of Oklahoma 3 wires on 3 or 4-way switch circuits where when the wire was pulled, they forgot to put a 14-3 Romex in for a Traveler circuit, so they would Heat UP a Neutral and use the ground for a neutral. This got me shocked more than once. And one more tidbit, Lineman pliers are just that. Klein is the brand name for a line of tools. This is like calling an Adjustable Wrench a Crescent Wrench. Crescent is a Brand Name.
*THAT DEFINITELY SIMPLIFIED AN OTHERWISE MESS, GOOD JOB!!*
And, to think we pay builders and contractors that are LICENSED to do these things.
I work in IT, and know what I should/shouldn't do. Builders and Contractors should follow the same suit.
We built our house in 2019, and I cannot believe to tell you the issues we have come across. And, some of them are 'hidden', and even the Inspector would not have been aware of them. A tad frustrating.
Alas, another informative video...
Frustrating for sure especially on the larger purchase of your life 🤦♂️
Hate to be the bearer of bad news. But typically residential installers. The guys actually wiring your home, aren't licensed. They're dirt cheap labor the contractor pays to turn a profit for them.
So. When shopping for contractors, make sure you find out who's actually going to be doing the install.
Is it methed up Mike for $11/hr, or master electrician Matt for $55/hr. ?
Your contractor is definitely going with Mike. (because the labor rate you're getting charged is still based off of $165/hr)
Which brings me to my last point. Cheap is never good in the electrical industry. This isn't a trade where you ever want to go with the lowest bidder.
@@renegadeelectrical1264 I hear ya! Thanks for sharing...
@@renegadeelectrical1264 thanks man, I think that was really good feedback and solid info for those looking to build a new home.
Sorry to say, it's been that way on residential work for many decades. I did lots and lots of union residential wiring from 1964 to +- 1980. Even then it was known as "roller skate" work since the contractors expected you to "run" through the work. Lots of guys wouldn't take those jobs for that reason and would "look down" on those how did. I was often the one doing the "trouble-shooting" on the new houses when they were sold and the new owner had the power turned on. I had to figure out and correct the mistakes guys made that were many times no longer there. It always bothered me that the work we did for those paying with "their own money" (as opposed to business/corporate funds) was the shoddiest work of all. The developers would "beat down" the sub-contractors prices to the point where if you had to go back to a house to do a trouble call, you lost money on that house.
One of the things I found was a good practice during my time as an electrician was putting a few wraps of electrical tape around the body of the switch or receptacle once it was wired. This was common practice in the more commercial/industrial projects rather than residential where we were dealing with metal boxes and mud rings. All the tape did was to help prevent shocks and sparks on the occasion that troubleshooting was later required on a hot circuit and the device had to be pulled from the box while live. It was more for the safety of the next guy to come along and perform whatever work was needed.
Hello Charles , I wrap outlets and switches for the same reason you do , To provide added safety against grounding out the connections on the box and helping prevent shocks for the next person who happens to work on it
My electrician told me to wrap with elec tape - been doing it since. Really does help when troubleshooting hot. Rarely see it in a box. (I’m not an electrician). 👍
I learned to use pigtails in my high school electricity class, over half a century ago, and have never done multiple wires any other way. Back then Marr connectors were commonly used, where there was a collar with screw to hold the wires together and covered with a plastic cap. Also, I've never used the push in connections.
As a sparky with 25 years in the trade, I cringed seeing that outlet with all those wires landed on it. I've never done it that way. IMO the best way is to pigtail when you have more than 1 hot, neutral or ground.
Worked with the laziest sparky. He would have 9 wires going to a spec grade receptacle that had the plates to place wires in before tightening. He also used the smallest or shallowest boxes.
When I was going over and changing every outlet as well as adding isolated circuits, i found several every screw and push ins used.. When I took my electrical courses years ago our instructor told us if we used a push in he would fail us.. I also pig tail and then connect to the correct rated outlet..
I'm renovating a home from 1990 and I've stumbled upon multiple occurrences of this atrocity, so it's unfortunately a common thing...
Retired electrician here, almost 30 years 20 of it doing housing . Union west suburbs of Chicago. We are an outlier in this discussion as we use pipe and wire no rope. Couple of things to say. Backstabbers are hacks. If you have that many wires coming into a box you failed. Nec 300.13 b in non lawyer speak basically says you must be able to remove the outlet without interrupting the white wire for stuff down the line. How do you do this with your outlet? Now you say wait a minute the power will be off so no problem. Wrong, sometimes as a skilled electrician you have to do stuff hot. With your outlet there if you were to lose one of those neutrals while hot bad things happen to electronics. I replaced every outlet in my house to a different color and never turned a breaker off. How did I do that ? Every outlet was pigtailed.
The first sign that it wasn't installed by real electrician is it had no electrical tape wrapped around the side connections
Period
Fullstop
I am still active with 42 years. Today they don't know anything about all that working it hot with good safe practices passed down by men over me that had pride and integrity. Short cuts and hack jobs and then scrutinized by people making it look like we all do it like that, when in fact the guy claiming that has not the knowledge, skill, nor experience to make such claims.
@@thecloneguyz I've seen good electricians and bad electricians licensed and unlicensed some rap the receptacle some don't
@@arlenmargolin1650 first place everyone grabs - the sides
Only rookies dont do it
300.13(B) only refers to multiwire branch circuits. He is not working on a multiwire branch circuit.
I'm no electrician, but not being thorough with electrical work is just pure laziness. Excellent video Scott!
It can also be fatal for the homeowner.
I am an electrician and I never stay up wires in the back that's the worst thing you can do Springs get old and come loose thank you
@@garyengland2208 great point!
Nice video. I've been an electrician for 54 years and believe me when I say that I've worked along side some guys the pull stuff like that just because of laziness. Some guys were as bad I would trust them to string lights on a Christmas tree.
I'm glad MOSTLY everyone uses common sense LOL
those back wire installs where it's like a push-in but uses the screw to tighten, I love those. Recently replaced all my outlets with commercial grade ones and it was a pleasure to install
My son bought a house and the kitchen and bathroom located on the backside of the wall all went dead. Someone had used the push in from the panel and then daisy chAined 3 receptacles( coffee maker and microwave included) and then went to the bathroom. What a nightmare to chase down. We felt a lot safer after it was we fixed it. Thanks for your tips. Always informative.
Having a 18ci box instead of a 22ci box makes the pigtail a lot tougher to tuck in
Use lever nuts and stranded wire for your pig tails. It’ll make a world of difference.
First thing I thought was pig tails.... Stab-ins don’t have the same surface contact area on the wire as side terminals and should be avoided.
Lastly, I typically wrap the outlet or switch with black electrical tape if it’s going in a metal box. Just an added layer of protection.
adding tape traps heat. I would avoid this practice.
@@andrewfunk9167 this. They're designed a certain way for a reason. You're being paranoid if you wrap in tape and exacerbate any local hot spot issues
A metal box doesn't make a bit of difference. You're screwing the receptacles into place, both you and the guy in the video are being overly paranoid... there isn't a need to tighten unused screws or tape an entire receptacle/switch. That being said I prefer the Shepard hook anyways so the screw gets used. But I don't worry about short circuits. Make sure all connections are dry and tight and you'll be fine until the house crumbles from age.
When you pig tail the amps from other devices will not pass thrue that device . It's the best way to wire a device to a splice to prevent overheating which will lead to a fire which will lead to loss of life
Thanks for this video. I have been trying to find this exact issue because I am adding a 2nd outlet in my bathroom and the gfi that was installed when I remodeled had the same thing. I had a friend who I feel is quite knowledgeable with electricity tell me it was done wrong. I bought a plug in tester that showed it is wired correctly and is working fine. Now I know what to do and feel a helluva lot better about moving forward with my project. Make one line out of two, run my load wires to my extra outlet and call it a day! Thanks again.
Very well done. Also, to add, make sure that the ground part of the receptacle is down so when you look at it you will see an "Oh" face. There is a good reason for that, which I am sure you know. My brand new house had most of the outlets with the ground side up...sigh...so I went through and turned them the right way.
I've heard people saying that the ground plug should be UP since it is your thumb that is most likely to slip and touch one the top prong(s), so having it as ground would be safer... Since I've NEVER been shocked by an outlet when plugging in something or unplugging something, that just sounds like a "solution looking for a problem"...
Personally though, I stay with the ground prong being in the down position because that is what I can always remember having ever since we went from non-grounded outlets to grounded outlets MANY decades ago...
And if you are going to be plugging in any sort of electronic device's wall power supply (aka "wall wart"), they are normally oriented so that the ground pin is expected to be down, otherwise the weight of the device would cause the unit to come out of the outlet somewhat.
Great video. For an extra measure of safety, I usually wrap the screw terminals with a couple wraps of electrical tape to prevent the screws from coming into contact with the sides of the metal box.
Electrical tape unravels after time
@@Mark-ul1hz Maybe so, but the tape I used when I wired my parents' garage in 1970 is still holding tight. And even if it did come loose, there's no harm done.
@@ttiwkram I've encountered plenty of electrical tape from 1956 that was still holding on pretty well. Good thing too, since there was not one single wire nut in my whole house when I moved in. Every splice was soldered and taped.
@@Mark-ul1hz How long ??? years???? In years of doing this I have never found unraveled black electrical tape there..
@@Mark-ul1hz that's if they are buying the 12 for a dollar stuff, I only use 3M black electrical tape, used to use it to bundle the electrical wires to submersible pump plastic pipe lasted for years fully submerged in water wells.
This will give you a good laugh. I worker for a national homebuilder in CT. We had a homeowner who kept blowing her GFI outlets in the kitchen every time she threw this switch. I had the electrician come out to look at it. He immediately said why is there a switch where the outlet should be. Every time you threw the switch it shorted out the whole line. So he gave me an outlet to put in place of the switch while he changed out the GFI outlets.
After watching this video and another one of your videos I was able to easily understand what to look for while replacing a outlet. It was worn out due to the outlet being used often with the vacuum. It was so easy that I decided to replace another commonly used outlet in the room. just to get the practice of doing this. When I took the other outlet apart one of the black wires had been nicked by someone installing the wires and outlet box. It was nicked so much that after pulling the outlet out of the box the wire broke off and as I was starting to pull it out of the back stab position.
We recently (2/21) went from renters to townhome owners. The prior owner had sweetened the for sale listing by extending electrical wires from within the house to outside to create an outlet to reach a water softener. Our home inspector did not report any issues. Not long after winter faded and the humidity and thunderstorms started (4/21), our water softener lost power. The breaker had not triggered, but the GFCI receptacles had. (Yes, I said: receptacleS.) Our circuit goes from a 20A breaker in the fuse box to (1) a kitchen wall 15A receptacle to (2) another kitchen wall 15A receptacle to (3) a DIY outdoor 15A GFCI receptacle to (4) another DIY outdoor 15A GFCI receptacle in which finally the water softener is plugged in. A trip to Lowe's and they sent me back with a box of three 20A GFCI to replace the receptacles: the two outdoors and at least the one inside the kitchen leading outside. This runs contrary to what I gleaned from you so far: there should not be multiple GFCI receptacles on the circuit/line, and it should be the first receptacle that is replaced with the GFCI anyway. So back to Lowe's where they give me just one 15A GFCI receptacle telling me 20A GFCI receptacles are overkill, and the 20A breaker doesn't matter, i.e., I don't have to use a 20A GFCI just because the breaker is 20A. Needless to say I'm not filled with confidence. I am determined to do this on my own, especially since a call to two different commercial electricians meant I would still be left in the dark (not literally) and with a bill for my shame. What should this circuit/line look like? If point A is the 20A breaker and point B is the water softener, what do points 1 (kitchen wall), 2 (kitchen under windowsill), 3 (outdoor under windowsill), and 4 (near water softener on porch) look like?
I’ve always wrap the duplex outlet with super 33 for extra protection particularly when you have a metal box. It’S not required by code but it’s a good practice that reduces other possible problems. Thanks, I enjoyed your video.
I wrap with tape as well, I picked it up from someone a long time ago. Fold the last bit of tape over on itself to make it a million times easier to remove when work is needed. I'm in Chicago so metal everything.
And do the same with switches, that way, if anyone has the covers off, the terminals are somewhat inaccessible,especially in a multiple device box. Most electricians do not do this in production work in new building, as it takes too much time, and when locating a problem it presents more work.
This should really become code
What are you guys doing to require tape all over? If you're removing the receptacle from the box it doesn't matter if it is made from carbon fiber, plastic, wood, metal, Papier-mâché... and upon insertion you're screwing it back into the top and bottom. Why would you wrap it? You know electricity produces heat, right? You know by wrapping tape around it needlessly, you will be trapping heat that should be dissipating when the receptacle is in use? I mean the receptacle is secured to a box of whatever construction which is covered over by a plate so there's literally no need for tape. It is a sign of someone that doesn't understand how electricity works and adds a potential hazard. There's a reason it is not required nor have I ever heard it recommended except in these comments. Silly.
@@abdulelkhatib2674 it really shouldn't. It's a hazard and adds zero safety.
It does work, it's within NEC, "national Electric code". What people dont understand is "code" is the minimal requirement. You should always go above minimum.
It's too bad INSPECTORS don't understand what MINIMUM means...some failing overkill as 'not to code'
If you did it to code, you just did the shittiest job you could do😉 words to live by
That's a bad description. It's a standard not a minimum it also has maximums. Most "going above" provides no additional value and in a lot of cases actually provides less safety and less value by default. Going above and beyond is usually the mantra of someone that doesn't understand that standard.
@@lloydmills9619 the standard is a minimum. Please give examples of "no additional value and less safe".
@@lloydmills9619 A good review and point .
And again the people complaining do NOT understand the inspector can only inspect and approve or dis-approve based on "standard", not what you like , or going over the maximum , his|her gut feeling or best practices. That what the author of this video should focus on and not call them mistakes.
One finishing touch that I like to add, is to put a wrap of 33 around the outlet or switch terminals to give a little added protection against contact..
I also do that.
In alot of municipalities, you cannot do that. It can fail a rough in inspection. They don't want any extra "combustable" material in walls.
@@vincentanatriello9296 Are you saying that wrapping a length of electrical tape around the outlet in a metal box is bad practice?
@@steveburke3923 Yes. Tape is ignitable, in a building where the walls are made of metal studs, you're using fire doors, fireproof ceiling panels, 5/8" gypsum board & steel is all fire sprayed you basically don't have anything inside the walls that could fuel a fire that doesn't need to be there.....except electrical tape.
Feb 23, 2023. I'm not an electrician but I have replaced dozens of wall sockets over the years, a dozen just recently and I never knew what I was really doing. The wirenut never stayed on because I didn't know how to screw it on or how to trim the wires. And I didn't know about pigtail wires. Up until now I use duct tape over the wire nut and prayers after the job is done. Thank you very much for this video.
Where I live we have code that electrical tape must be run around the receptacle covering the screws terminals It is a safe practice and I have done this for years prior to it becoming code. And I will agree with you about push-in failures. I have gone back to exclusively using the screw terminals because of this. May take a few seconds longer but in the long run I don't have to worry about a client complaining a receptacle is not working.
I was going to say I wrap the receptacle and pigtail wire nuts in 3M elec. tape
@@j_boogie_483 It is not code!
@@j_boogie_483 I wouldnt wrap ur wire nuts w tape, looks like you’re hiding something, tape will heat up and melt over time creating a mess and overall looks sloppy but to each their own
Running tape over screws is not safe practice and I'd be curious to see this supposed code. It is a safety hazard. It adds nothing but heat buildup. Current isn't going to magically travel to the gang box through air... unless you have so high a voltage to cross the air gap but then you have a LOT bigger problems if that much voltage is coming in to your feed.
Good on you for the humility 👍🏻
Just found your channel and have already busted myself on a couple of mistakes I have made in the past. Thank you for this info. Looks like better tools makes a difference also. Thanks again, Brian
Thanks for showing these safe ways of doing outlets. You will potentially save a lot of headaches down the line.