The new idlers and tensioner should arrive tomorrow, so it's looking good for getting the Rangie back on the road this week. Otherwise, she'll be getting another damned good thrashing!
Hi Sam, Just fitted a new Denso on my 2011 4.4 tdv8, I've been on the spanners for 35yrs and that was one of the most awkward jobs I've ever done. !! The guy who designed it like that wants an old alternator ramming up his arse !!! Great video Sam.
Got a steal on my 2011 L322 because the original alternator failed and the previous owner replaced it with a cheap rebuilt one. He gave up on the car when it still wouldn’t charge. I installed an OEM denso unit and it works perfectly now. Nice video.
Don't know how you chaps on youtube do it.. Doing the work is bad enough bloody trying to film it to me would be hell !! Me throwing spanners and swearing and shouting at the wife and kids would not be good to watch thats for sure "OR WOULD IT" ??The bit at the end would be best as I struggle to find where all the spare nuts and bolts go Then having to start all over again because I probably put something back wrong !!! Anyway glad you do what you do another great up load !!!!!!!!!!! thanks !!!
Nice.... Looks like this just happened to me.... Almost step for step..... Heated seats and 12 volt sockets stopped working..... Then all sorts of warning lights... Managed to get it home.... And there it died this morning.
Welcome to the "Land Rover Experience "! There will never be a boring day in your life with that Princess. In my experience, and as much as I love mine, she's rarely happy. Supermodel looks and bad attitude . It makes for good youtube channel though, thanks for sharing brother, enjoy the pain! ;)
08:16 - You can recondition your old alternator with a new diode pack. It should save you money in the long run and you'll have a spare alternator at hand for future use. :) Diodes tend to *short* when they die, which means you'll get a "continuity" reading from positive to negative. If the reg pack goes, it means you'll usually have an overvoltage condition and blow your headlights due to overvoltage, but the diodes on the alternator will usually survive (depending on how long the overvoltage condition has occurred for). In my opinion, the only time a whole alternator is needed to be replaced is when the exciter coil has shorted, or the bearings have completely failed. Other than that, usually they can be resurrected fairly easily with a part from eBay/Amazon/Aftermarket (diodes/diode pack, or a reg pack). Hope this helps for the future. :) P.S. Car mechanic here. Had lots of experience with these kinds of issues.
This was the first thing I thought of as well. I remember a time when this was how we had to repair our cars back in the day. I had starter motors rewound, alternators repaired. Tbf we didn’t have cheap patterned parts either. Good shout on the diode pack though
Great video and steps to change the Alternator, will be my weekend project for a 2006 RR Sport HSE 169k milage, battery light on/off intermittent problem.
Had the same issue on my 3.6 TDV8. Alternator fried then killed the battery. After all manner of warning lights and messages the dash went blank, the engine stopped and the car rolled to a halt (with very heavy steering due to the lack of PAS). I was visiting my home town in the UK at the time so the local dealer kindly fitted me in as an emergency case. The way to replace the alternator in the 3.6 was to take off the front right wheel and wheel arch cover an pull the alternator out that way. Not sure if that way is viable on the 4.4.
Yes. I realized that when I was replacing the front struts the other day. The image just shows the pulley on the alternator. photos.app.goo.gl/xxtYsuEE2RhBP5qZA
Hi Sam, I have been following your video clips since the day you picked up your Range Rover, I am also the proud owner of a 2011 4.4 TDV8 Range Rover Vogue SE, I think your brought yours from Reading way and got it for a good price. I searched far and wide for mine having to go all the way to Essex, I’ve had quite a few electrical gremlins from day one but managed to get the car sorted now under the warranty at a specialist in orsett, it’s a cracking car I love it to pieces I’ve got the chirping auxiliary belt making a lot of noise on cold start at the moment, so no doubt the tensioner’s and pulleys will need changing and a new belt. Hopefully it’s not to big a job as I am not mechanical minded and will likely have to pay some one to fix it. I used to own a 1994 Vogue Classic 3.9L Petrol wish I still had that but ended up selling it to an enthusiast as it had a suspected head gasket issue. Great Videos hope the car keep’s going strong for you. Will
Thanks for the comment Will. I have just gotten mine back on the road today after replacing the alternator, and as soon as I pulled off the driveway I immediately forgot about all the time and pain spent working on it. They may be troublesome, but they are SO worth it. Cheers,
Even though I did my time swinging spanners , I know why I have a Landy specialist do the work . I bought my L322 because I had got tired of climbing under my Land Cruiser , it had started to become unreliable after 1 million miles on the clock .
Mine is, at least, on its third alternator. When I bought the car, it was already a replaced one in it. Then I replaced it with a sub-par replacement, which lasted about a year, until I replaced the rectifier in the one that came with the car. That one has lasted for a couple of years now. Knock on wood. I think the Ford Smart Charge system is a driver for the rectifier breakdowns. After start, it let the car continue to drain the battery for up to five minutes, so when the ECU suddenly realizes it's time to start charging, it commands 100% which puts about 80 amps into the battery and then another 50 amps to run the systems on the car. It's a stupid system. I see absolutely no benefits from it. It gives the batteries a shorter service life and it gives very noisy DC in the car when it commands the output down to 13.5V.
@@SamsMotors Hmm. YT didn't like my link to AliExpress... Retrying: I have a permanently installed Volt/Amp/Energy meter. It's a hall sensor, similar to your amp-clamp with a built in transmitter that relays the data to a display installed to the left of the rear view mirror. If you google for "DC 500V 100A 200A 500A Wireless Voltmeter", I think you'll find it. Maybe I should shoot a video about it.
Maybe this is a clue as to why the RR is so expensive in the first place. So complicated, you need a good income to pay LR specialists to do even the day to day maintenance. Thanks for confirming that I can’t afford to run one, before I found out the hard way myself.
Good luck finding a modern car which less complicated to wrench on. At least the JLR cars doesn't require a bucketful of special tools. VW, I'm looking at you! Belt tensioner with a five corner head, so no socket will fit, just to give one example.
Thank you. i am looking to buy a L322 4.4 in the coming months, so appreciate your vids, hints and tips, and looks like to build a stock of parts(lol) and tools :)
Hate the cowling setup on these. The rest of the Land Rover lineup are relatively easy to remove. Been tempted to cut a slot in top like some of them to make the fan removal 2 hours quicker.
It's rubbish. If you didn't have to remove the turbo bypass valve from the bottom of the cowl it wouldn't be such a bad job. But that makes it a nightmare!
Sammy.. Viewer from aus here. If only you could pick up a 4.4 tdv8 for a decent price here. Even a 250000km 3.6 chases $25000aud....I had a m62 l322, loved it. But the motor really was a let-down performance wise. 2.5t and 440nm don't go hand in hand. (I have an m62 bmw 740il, and it actually entertains performance). Nonetheless, it sounded brilliant and was reliable and smooth, but i loathe a tdv8 😆, despite the temptation to buy a q7 or touareg with the 4.2tdi as its a powerhouse by comparison, there is something about a rangie that keeps me intrigued. Keep up the great content
Thanks for the comment mate and glad my videos have made it all the way down under! Interesting to see that the 322s hold their value over there - I'd have thought they'd be dirt cheap for some reason - I only ever see Aussies driving Japanese 4x4s online! Cheers,
@@SamsMotors i sold my 02 4.4 l322 around christmas for 10 grand aussie with 255000km. Which was cheap. At the moment everything has a covid tax here though, and tdv8s are harder to come across, presumably because they are so good, no body wants to sell them 😅 .... but out of all the tdv8 here, the l320 sports are the cheapest. Sometimes you see real high km ones (300000+km) for sale for between 15 and 20k. But I'm tall, and dont fit in them properly, and I'm not a fan of having to take the body off the chassis to do certain jobs.
Isn't the fan shroud split in half, so you can take off just the top part? That's how it is on the 3.6 and it's the only thing needed to get the fan out.
That brightened up my morning! 😂 My RR had a failed alternator a few weeks ago, my first warning was no heated steering wheel too. Took a whole afternoon to change the damn thing. My LS3 defender would take about 15 minutes!
Same thing happened my 2012 4.4 tdv8 when i drove through a flood! the next day it started acting up and stopped in the middle of 2 lanes blocking a major road in town.! haha
They are supposed to withstand being run flooded, but having rebuilt one original Denso, the rectifier bridge is all non-insulated, so a big no-no for sea water, at least.
Touaregs are capable vehicles, (especially the V8 TDI) but they just don't have the 'panache' of a Range Rover. I never take a 2nd glance at a Touareg if I see one on the road - and that's reason enough for me to own a Rangie!
Crackin vid Sam as always looked a pain in the ass to remove the alternator makes sense to do the pulley's at the same time future time and break downs saved 👍
Great video on this, I’m changing all idlers and the belts at the moment and was wondering when you remove the viscous fan do you have to drain the coolant or can you block it off when undoing the pipe work?
Very tricky to do, maybe impossible without draining the coolant. There's a couple of coolant pipes that run right down in front of the alternator that need to be removed in order for it to come out.
I'm thinking about it - the box works nicely at the moment but I do want to do an oil change, as I don't know if it's ever been done. I'm a bit wary though as there are some instances where an oil change can upset them.
@@SamsMotors im getting mine done maybe next week, along with other oil changes, my mates a really good mechanic so I’ll let you know how we get on and maybe record it on my phone if you’re interested in seeing it 👍👍
It's a remembrance poppy, to commemorate those who died for our country. Veterans' associations exchange poppies for charitable donations used to give financial, social and emotional support to members and veterans of the armed forces. 👍
Hello, How many screw are on the fan cowl? I've unscrew several screw on top and side panel, 3 screw on the bottom panel and still can't pull the fan cowl up. Do you have service instruction in pdf? Please help, Thanks!
Have you removed the turbo bypass valve (bottom of the radiator)? Its bolted through the radiator cowl. Also the fan itself has to be released from the hub in order to remove the cowl. If you email me at samsmotorandmachine@gmail.com I'll send you a Google Drive copy of the workshop manual 👍
@@SamsMotors I did just like what you have shown on the video, there's a number 10 bolt which is the most difficult (other is number 8). It's finally can be taken out!
At least it wasn't a body off chassis job. for a big car, they are not easy under the bonnet, to work on. Was that an Austin 1300 in the faulty towers clip, My first car, rusted faster than iron in salt water. I,put that comment back for clarity. ( wasnt sure so i edited it.)
Austin 1300 estate, yeah! Here's the original vid for if anyone was curious what the intro was about... 😂 th-cam.com/video/mv0onXhyLlE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=BBCStudios
@@SamsMotors it’s a nightmare got a l322 as well but fixed all of the problems finally got air suspension working perfect as well just getting it ready for mot now
How the hell did you manage to get the alternator out without taking the front end off, when I done mine I removed the bumper radiator pack recover AC gas etc to make it easy , you can’t even see the alternator from underneath and just the pulley from above , must of been an absolute B*****D
Once the fan and pipework are all removed from the front, there's plenty of room to get in and undo the alternator, and to pull it up and out. Getting to that stage was a bit of a bastard though!
Would this problem make the jump leads go hot. The same thing just happened to me. Disco lights then blank screen then hoots me granny having trouble jump starting it with the leads getting hot.
Yes it would - as In my case the battery was dead shorted to ground through the alternator. So any leads connected to the battery would also be shorted.
@@SamsMotors Cheers Sam. It’s Jim’s L322 I got. It’s a great bus to have and I’ve now popped my cherry with its first problem ;) After new alternator I’m getting the DPF removed, couldn’t be bothered with all that regen malarkey.
@@ArnoldClarke oh no! Well it's an absolutely beautiful example - they reckon the alternators are only good for about 100k miles anyway, so mine is on its third now. The L322 is very power hungry so the alternators get a hammering, especially during the winter months.
@@SamsMotors I’ve ordered the second battery thing for the boot, should give relief to the starting battery and is an easy fit two. Good guns with yours. There like Stately Homes as we are are only custodians taking good care of them.
It depends - this time I used Advanced Factors for the idlers and tensioner, but I went to collect the alternator from an auto electrics shop as 'new-old stock'. The belt was just from a local motor factors. I also use Island 4x4 a lot, and used to use Paddock Spares when I was building the 130. For looking up parts, I use the online Microcat website (new.lrcat.com) which is really useful.
@@SamsMotors Proper bstard to get off. Never managed it when the alternator failed on my D3. My bro in law has v small carney type hands and managed it from underneath. Not an option on yours tho.
@@davebartos7743 I couldn't get it off until I made the counter holding tool I showed in the vid. Tried tapping the spanner to shock it, holding crank pulley with a breaker bar etc. Then with the fan pulley counter held, it came off straight away.
@@SamsMotors Yeah i tried all that. Even my 6ft 20 stones jumping onto the f thing. Nope niet no no wold not budge.Was lucky my bro in law has freakishly small hands. Oddly mine died as i arrived on the drive - then caught fire. Gotta love a Land Rover eh.
@@SamsMotors I use a screwdriver and jam it between one of the screws on the water pump flywheel and a bracket. But that's on a 3.6. Dunno if there is such an option on the 4.4.
Have to laugh at the range rover reliability comments on here. Its an alternator, I've had them go on virtually every car I've had. Honda civic, vw T5, toyota yaris They fail, that's what they do 🤦♂️😂😂😂
Alternators have been 90-100k replacement items on every vehicle I've owned. Good chance to replace all the pulleys, etc. that you have access to at the same time.
I believe it's accessible from underneath on the V8s, but it's not an engine I'm familiar with so best to try and find a workshop manual PDF that will show you.
On my 4th,yes,4th alternator in one year.These rebuilt alternators are unreliable.The idea of BMW using coolant was short lived.One needs to remove fan blade and cowling simple task with proper tool.This is good time to change tensioners.Also simple task with proper tools.If battery went bad, replace with new battery. Do not use or recharge old battery.Good luck changing idiotic engineering concept, ie.alternator with coolant.
Thankfully on these, the alternator isn't water cooled. 4 alternators in a year sounds like you might have another problem causing them to fail - knackered battery causing the alternator to overcharge and burn itself out?
![THIS is why EGR is so bad for your Range Rover. [4.4 TDV8 Belt Squeal, Inlet Cleaning & Service]](/img/n.gif)
The new idlers and tensioner should arrive tomorrow, so it's looking good for getting the Rangie back on the road this week. Otherwise, she'll be getting another damned good thrashing!
Like the John Cleese bit which manual are you taking your reference's from?
I am using the 2010-12 official LR manual which I have in PDF form. It's pretty light on instructions but has half decent pictures.
@@SamsMotors hey, can you kindly post a link to where you got yours from? Looks like a real handy thing
Hi Sam, Just fitted a new Denso on my 2011 4.4 tdv8, I've been on the spanners for 35yrs and that was one of the most awkward jobs I've ever done. !! The guy who designed it like that wants an old alternator ramming up his arse !!! Great video Sam.
Got a steal on my 2011 L322 because the original alternator failed and the previous owner replaced it with a cheap rebuilt one. He gave up on the car when it still wouldn’t charge. I installed an OEM denso unit and it works perfectly now. Nice video.
Somebody who appreciates real comedy.🤣🤣
Looking forward to the next instalment, its like Saturday morning television when I was a kid. keep up the good work.
Don't know how you chaps on youtube do it.. Doing the work is bad enough bloody trying to film it to me would be hell !! Me throwing spanners and swearing and shouting at the wife and kids would not be good to watch thats for sure "OR WOULD IT" ??The bit at the end would be best as I struggle to find where all the spare nuts and bolts go Then having
to start all over again because I probably put something back wrong !!! Anyway glad you do what you do another great up load !!!!!!!!!!! thanks !!!
absolute nightmare of a job. you mad that look easy mate. i was throwing spanners 2 hours in!!
Mine died this morning and luckily I work at a garage. just spent 4hrs stripping parts and pipes off and then I started throwing spanners too mate !!
@@davem8129 wait until you try and get the fu**er lined up took me a full day.
@@boatsnhoes30 Dreading it mate ! I'm off to Turkey on Wednesday for 2 wks. Bollocks to it till I get back.
Nice.... Looks like this just happened to me.... Almost step for step..... Heated seats and 12 volt sockets stopped working..... Then all sorts of warning lights... Managed to get it home.... And there it died this morning.
Welcome to the "Land Rover Experience "! There will never be a boring day in your life with that Princess. In my experience, and as much as I love mine, she's rarely happy. Supermodel looks and bad attitude . It makes for good youtube channel though, thanks for sharing brother, enjoy the pain! ;)
08:16 - You can recondition your old alternator with a new diode pack. It should save you money in the long run and you'll have a spare alternator at hand for future use. :) Diodes tend to *short* when they die, which means you'll get a "continuity" reading from positive to negative.
If the reg pack goes, it means you'll usually have an overvoltage condition and blow your headlights due to overvoltage, but the diodes on the alternator will usually survive (depending on how long the overvoltage condition has occurred for).
In my opinion, the only time a whole alternator is needed to be replaced is when the exciter coil has shorted, or the bearings have completely failed. Other than that, usually they can be resurrected fairly easily with a part from eBay/Amazon/Aftermarket (diodes/diode pack, or a reg pack).
Hope this helps for the future. :) P.S. Car mechanic here. Had lots of experience with these kinds of issues.
This was the first thing I thought of as well. I remember a time when this was how we had to repair our cars back in the day. I had starter motors rewound, alternators repaired. Tbf we didn’t have cheap patterned parts either. Good shout on the diode pack though
Way beyond my skill set but does give a great insight into the mechanical workings and repair processes. Look forward to the next instalment
Great video and steps to change the Alternator, will be my weekend project for a 2006 RR Sport HSE 169k milage, battery light on/off intermittent problem.
Had the same issue on my 3.6 TDV8. Alternator fried then killed the battery. After all manner of warning lights and messages the dash went blank, the engine stopped and the car rolled to a halt (with very heavy steering due to the lack of PAS). I was visiting my home town in the UK at the time so the local dealer kindly fitted me in as an emergency case. The way to replace the alternator in the 3.6 was to take off the front right wheel and wheel arch cover an pull the alternator out that way. Not sure if that way is viable on the 4.4.
Yep, that sounds familiar! Glad to hear you got it back on the road without any other ill effects though.
Yes. I realized that when I was replacing the front struts the other day. The image just shows the pulley on the alternator.
photos.app.goo.gl/xxtYsuEE2RhBP5qZA
I did the same job on my Grandad's Discovery 3 TDV6, it's looks a similar job changing the alternator on yours but a bit more involved.
Yeah, I don't think any modern Land Rover product is easy to work on sadly!
Thought that was going to be an easy job after dining an alternator on a V8 petrol defender how wrong I was!!! Enjoying your channel 😃
Hi Sam, I have been following your video clips since the day you picked up your Range Rover, I am also the proud owner of a 2011 4.4 TDV8 Range Rover Vogue SE, I think your brought yours from Reading way and got it for a good price. I searched far and wide for mine having to go all the way to Essex, I’ve had quite a few electrical gremlins from day one but managed to get the car sorted now under the warranty at a specialist in orsett, it’s a cracking car I love it to pieces I’ve got the chirping auxiliary belt making a lot of noise on cold start at the moment, so no doubt the tensioner’s and pulleys will need changing and a new belt.
Hopefully it’s not to big a job as I am not mechanical minded and will likely have to pay some one to fix it.
I used to own a 1994 Vogue Classic 3.9L Petrol wish I still had that but ended up selling it to an enthusiast as it had a suspected head gasket issue.
Great Videos hope the car keep’s going strong for you. Will
Thanks for the comment Will. I have just gotten mine back on the road today after replacing the alternator, and as soon as I pulled off the driveway I immediately forgot about all the time and pain spent working on it. They may be troublesome, but they are SO worth it.
Cheers,
What a task that is. Hope it all goes back together OK. 🤞 Look forward to seeing that. 👍
Even though I did my time swinging spanners , I know why I have a Landy specialist do the work . I bought my L322 because I had got tired of climbing under my Land Cruiser , it had started to become unreliable after 1 million miles on the clock .
I feel your pain Sam. my Rangie is currently laid up with the same issue! Can't wait for part 2.
Seems to be a few of us!
Mine is, at least, on its third alternator. When I bought the car, it was already a replaced one in it. Then I replaced it with a sub-par replacement, which lasted about a year, until I replaced the rectifier in the one that came with the car. That one has lasted for a couple of years now. Knock on wood. I think the Ford Smart Charge system is a driver for the rectifier breakdowns. After start, it let the car continue to drain the battery for up to five minutes, so when the ECU suddenly realizes it's time to start charging, it commands 100% which puts about 80 amps into the battery and then another 50 amps to run the systems on the car. It's a stupid system. I see absolutely no benefits from it. It gives the batteries a shorter service life and it gives very noisy DC in the car when it commands the output down to 13.5V.
@@rhkavli interesting. Did you hook it up to diagnostics to see what level it was charging at?
@@SamsMotors Hmm. YT didn't like my link to AliExpress... Retrying: I have a permanently installed Volt/Amp/Energy meter. It's a hall sensor, similar to your amp-clamp with a built in transmitter that relays the data to a display installed to the left of the rear view mirror. If you google for "DC 500V 100A 200A 500A Wireless Voltmeter", I think you'll find it. Maybe I should shoot a video about it.
Love the video wish I was as handy with the spanners! My recently purchased L322 has spent more time with the mechanic than on my drive so far 😔
Maybe this is a clue as to why the RR is so expensive in the first place. So complicated, you need a good income to pay LR specialists to do even the day to day maintenance. Thanks for confirming that I can’t afford to run one, before I found out the hard way myself.
Good luck finding a modern car which less complicated to wrench on. At least the JLR cars doesn't require a bucketful of special tools. VW, I'm looking at you! Belt tensioner with a five corner head, so no socket will fit, just to give one example.
Thank you ..video was extremely helpful Saturday.. managed to cut guess work right down by following your video
Glad it helped!
@@SamsMotors really did ..thanks .. Still a really shitty job though 😀
Sure is!
The joys of L322 ownership, had this happen to mine certainly not easy
Your videos on the L322 are good - been debating an L322 myself and I'm not sure if these are persuading me for or against.
Thank you. i am looking to buy a L322 4.4 in the coming months, so appreciate your vids, hints and tips, and looks like to build a stock of parts(lol) and tools :)
Have fun!
Look forward to your next video Sam, hope you get it fixed and back on the road 😊👍🏼
Woo, thanks for another video on your RR. I am enjoying this mini series
Glad you like them!
Hate the cowling setup on these. The rest of the Land Rover lineup are relatively easy to remove. Been tempted to cut a slot in top like some of them to make the fan removal 2 hours quicker.
It's rubbish. If you didn't have to remove the turbo bypass valve from the bottom of the cowl it wouldn't be such a bad job. But that makes it a nightmare!
I didn’t fully remove the valve on mine. Just unbolted it.
Sammy.. Viewer from aus here.
If only you could pick up a 4.4 tdv8 for a decent price here. Even a 250000km 3.6 chases $25000aud....I had a m62 l322, loved it. But the motor really was a let-down performance wise. 2.5t and 440nm don't go hand in hand. (I have an m62 bmw 740il, and it actually entertains performance).
Nonetheless, it sounded brilliant and was reliable and smooth, but i loathe a tdv8 😆, despite the temptation to buy a q7 or touareg with the 4.2tdi as its a powerhouse by comparison, there is something about a rangie that keeps me intrigued.
Keep up the great content
Thanks for the comment mate and glad my videos have made it all the way down under!
Interesting to see that the 322s hold their value over there - I'd have thought they'd be dirt cheap for some reason - I only ever see Aussies driving Japanese 4x4s online!
Cheers,
@@SamsMotors i sold my 02 4.4 l322 around christmas for 10 grand aussie with 255000km. Which was cheap. At the moment everything has a covid tax here though, and tdv8s are harder to come across, presumably because they are so good, no body wants to sell them 😅 .... but out of all the tdv8 here, the l320 sports are the cheapest. Sometimes you see real high km ones (300000+km) for sale for between 15 and 20k. But I'm tall, and dont fit in them properly, and I'm not a fan of having to take the body off the chassis to do certain jobs.
Isn't the fan shroud split in half, so you can take off just the top part? That's how it is on the 3.6 and it's the only thing needed to get the fan out.
No it's not, it's one piece - that's what I meant in my previous comment about it being harder on the 4.4.
That brightened up my morning! 😂
My RR had a failed alternator a few weeks ago, my first warning was no heated steering wheel too. Took a whole afternoon to change the damn thing. My LS3 defender would take about 15 minutes!
A whole afternoon is pretty good going in my book! Is yours a 4.4 TDV8 too?
Also your Defender is absolutely bonkers. Love it!
Same thing happened my 2012 4.4 tdv8 when i drove through a flood! the next day it started acting up and stopped in the middle of 2 lanes blocking a major road in town.! haha
They are supposed to withstand being run flooded, but having rebuilt one original Denso, the rectifier bridge is all non-insulated, so a big no-no for sea water, at least.
She battled on to her last breath to get you home ❤
She did. Even as her ECUs and computers all died from lack of power, she kept running somehow even with the battery voltage down to less than 5 volts.
Do miss my rangies but must admit since going v8 tdi Touareg I enjoy having my weekends back and not under a bonnet
Touaregs are capable vehicles, (especially the V8 TDI) but they just don't have the 'panache' of a Range Rover. I never take a 2nd glance at a Touareg if I see one on the road - and that's reason enough for me to own a Rangie!
Is it a bush , is it a stick nope ...kitchen roll 😆
Crackin vid Sam as always looked a pain in the ass to remove the alternator makes sense to do the pulley's at the same time future time and break downs saved 👍
Great video on this, I’m changing all idlers and the belts at the moment and was wondering when you remove the viscous fan do you have to drain the coolant or can you block it off when undoing the pipe work?
Very tricky to do, maybe impossible without draining the coolant. There's a couple of coolant pipes that run right down in front of the alternator that need to be removed in order for it to come out.
You cant beat comedy like that lol
Thanks for the video. Hope all goes well with assembly.
Thank you!
Hi Sam, will you be changing the gear box fluid and filter anytime soon pal ??
I'm thinking about it - the box works nicely at the moment but I do want to do an oil change, as I don't know if it's ever been done. I'm a bit wary though as there are some instances where an oil change can upset them.
@@SamsMotors im getting mine done maybe next week, along with other oil changes, my mates a really good mechanic so I’ll let you know how we get on and maybe record it on my phone if you’re interested in seeing it 👍👍
Excellent! I've been waiting for this video!
Hope you enjoyed it!
Nice one! Looks a difficult job
Pretty fiddly at points, but not too technically challenging.
This happened on my Lexus , alternator burnt out , left me side of road.
Maybe when the alternator shorted out it blew a fuse so rather than the battery being shorted it just depleted with all the kit the range got on it 👌
When you said what parts you had collected, I was thinking he should have got pulleys and tensioner as well 🤦♂️
Yeah, bit short sighted of me!
These cars age like a finest gold nugget.
Phenomenal channel
Keep them coming 👌
Thankyou mate, makes me happy to know people are enjoying it!!
What is that flower on the front grill?
It's a remembrance poppy, to commemorate those who died for our country. Veterans' associations exchange poppies for charitable donations used to give financial, social and emotional support to members and veterans of the armed forces. 👍
Hello, How many screw are on the fan cowl? I've unscrew several screw on top and side panel, 3 screw on the bottom panel and still can't pull the fan cowl up. Do you have service instruction in pdf? Please help, Thanks!
Have you removed the turbo bypass valve (bottom of the radiator)? Its bolted through the radiator cowl.
Also the fan itself has to be released from the hub in order to remove the cowl.
If you email me at samsmotorandmachine@gmail.com I'll send you a Google Drive copy of the workshop manual 👍
@@SamsMotors I did just like what you have shown on the video, there's a number 10 bolt which is the most difficult (other is number 8). It's finally can be taken out!
I follow Ben’s Garage already 👍
Grazie mille x il video mi ha aiutato tantissimo sei un grande👍 ❤️👏
You're very welcome!
At least it wasn't a body off chassis job.
for a big car, they are not easy under the bonnet, to work on.
Was that an Austin 1300 in the faulty towers clip, My first car, rusted faster than iron in salt water.
I,put that comment back for clarity. ( wasnt sure so i edited it.)
Austin 1300 estate, yeah! Here's the original vid for if anyone was curious what the intro was about... 😂
th-cam.com/video/mv0onXhyLlE/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=BBCStudios
When are you doing another Range Rover l322 video
Should be soon Leyton, I’m fighting a losing battle with the weather and getting time to work on her!
@@SamsMotors it’s a nightmare got a l322 as well but fixed all of the problems finally got air suspension working perfect as well just getting it ready for mot now
Fawlty Power :) great video.
I missed a trick there, damn!
great intro
How the hell did you manage to get the alternator out without taking the front end off, when I done mine I removed the bumper radiator pack recover AC gas etc to make it easy , you can’t even see the alternator from underneath and just the pulley from above , must of been an absolute B*****D
Once the fan and pipework are all removed from the front, there's plenty of room to get in and undo the alternator, and to pull it up and out. Getting to that stage was a bit of a bastard though!
@@SamsMotors getting the fan off was a bitch really tight and holding the water pump pulley to enable you to undo the fan
Would this problem make the jump leads go hot. The same thing just happened to me. Disco lights then blank screen then hoots me granny having trouble jump starting it with the leads getting hot.
Yes it would - as In my case the battery was dead shorted to ground through the alternator. So any leads connected to the battery would also be shorted.
@@SamsMotors Cheers Sam. It’s Jim’s L322 I got. It’s a great bus to have and I’ve now popped my cherry with its first problem ;)
After new alternator I’m getting the DPF removed, couldn’t be bothered with all that regen malarkey.
@@ArnoldClarke oh no! Well it's an absolutely beautiful example - they reckon the alternators are only good for about 100k miles anyway, so mine is on its third now. The L322 is very power hungry so the alternators get a hammering, especially during the winter months.
@@SamsMotors I’ve ordered the second battery thing for the boot, should give relief to the starting battery and is an easy fit two. Good guns with yours.
There like Stately Homes as we are are only custodians taking good care of them.
Where do you usually get your parts from?
It depends - this time I used Advanced Factors for the idlers and tensioner, but I went to collect the alternator from an auto electrics shop as 'new-old stock'. The belt was just from a local motor factors. I also use Island 4x4 a lot, and used to use Paddock Spares when I was building the 130. For looking up parts, I use the online Microcat website (new.lrcat.com) which is really useful.
@@SamsMotors Yes, Island 4x4 is my go to. I'll use lrdirect at times for the hard to find genuine parts.
Does the viscous fan bolt undo clockwise like my old D3?
Yep, left hand thread on these!
@@SamsMotors Proper bstard to get off. Never managed it when the alternator failed on my D3. My bro in law has v small carney type hands and managed it from underneath. Not an option on yours tho.
@@davebartos7743 I couldn't get it off until I made the counter holding tool I showed in the vid. Tried tapping the spanner to shock it, holding crank pulley with a breaker bar etc. Then with the fan pulley counter held, it came off straight away.
@@SamsMotors Yeah i tried all that. Even my 6ft 20 stones jumping onto the f thing. Nope niet no no wold not budge.Was lucky my bro in law has freakishly small hands. Oddly mine died as i arrived on the drive - then caught fire. Gotta love a Land Rover eh.
@@SamsMotors I use a screwdriver and jam it between one of the screws on the water pump flywheel and a bracket. But that's on a 3.6. Dunno if there is such an option on the 4.4.
A faulternator ?
Very good 😆
Have to laugh at the range rover reliability comments on here.
Its an alternator, I've had them go on virtually every car I've had.
Honda civic, vw T5, toyota yaris
They fail, that's what they do 🤦♂️😂😂😂
A Japanese made alternator no less! (Denso)
Badly made these Japanese parts, badly made! 😂
Alternators have been 90-100k replacement items on every vehicle I've owned. Good chance to replace all the pulleys, etc. that you have access to at the same time.
True, but they don't need to be so difficult to replace. Mine took 30 mins and £35 diode/brush pack
What year is this Range Rover?
2011 👍
Thank you. I have a 2011 5.0 non turbo. Do you think this job is as hard for my vehicle?
I believe it's accessible from underneath on the V8s, but it's not an engine I'm familiar with so best to try and find a workshop manual PDF that will show you.
It’s lucky you can be without the car on the road for so long
Luckily I can borrow a car to get to work, as both of mine are off the road at the moment! Talk about timing!
Could you not exchange the alternator?
I wanted new rather than exchange/refurbed. I also want to strip down the old alty myself at some point and have a look for what went wrong!
@@SamsMotors fair enough.
Really enjoying the content.
🤣 would love this even more if the alternator was at the top of the engine
you need change the cambelt
She's got a timing chain thankfully.
Y DOES MY 2.7 HAVE A BELT THEN
@@marekmerchelski1014 Completely different engine
Don’t mention the war,
Mines just gone lol
D'oh :(
Nope
On my 4th,yes,4th alternator in one year.These rebuilt alternators are unreliable.The idea of BMW using coolant was short lived.One needs to remove fan blade and cowling simple task with proper tool.This is good time to change tensioners.Also simple task with proper tools.If battery went bad, replace with new battery. Do not use or recharge old battery.Good luck changing idiotic engineering concept, ie.alternator with coolant.
Thankfully on these, the alternator isn't water cooled. 4 alternators in a year sounds like you might have another problem causing them to fail - knackered battery causing the alternator to overcharge and burn itself out?
Took me about a half hour to replace Alternator on my w163 ml350. Land rovers are trash, you'll be fixing it forever.
You'd never catch me driving an ML, but each to their own!
So £10 for the part and £900 in labour 🤣
I think the main dealer price is probably around that for labour, yeah!
MANUEL!!!!!!!!!
Slowly adding up !