@@SamsMotorsI replaced my rear air springs and shocks and all the connections both front and back are good. But now I am showing adaptive dynamic fault upon start up. Any thoughts? Do you think I might need a calibration? I am able to change the ride height but with this fault I am not able to use the other terrain modes.
Your patience is to be admired, not a single expletive heard. Maybe your editing skills are better than your self control, but I doubt that is the reason. Another excellent video, thank you. Bollocks isn't a real expletive.
Thank-you, much appreciated. The only times I really use expletives to full effect is where I've personally 'cocked up' doing something silly. I felt a 'bollocks' was justified in that scenario anyway!
So replaced airbags and good qaulity shock and still not right. Not a heck of a lot left. Been following your channel a bit now and find it a huge help. As soon as I think I wouldn’t mind giving rangies another to this cures me of the desire. Pity...great wagons but more than their share of issues. On my third Touareg after changing and. no issues what so ever. Hasn’t the class for sure...but as I’ve got older I’ll trade that for sanity any day
Rear knuckle hub bushings? You have a pair of them either side. They are happily overlooked by your mechanic, due to the amount of effort and complexity of the tools involved. But one of the MAIN items that affects the ride quality in high milage heavy cars. Just a pair of them fixed a wobbly and clunky back end on my Cayenne.
Done them already, and I don’t have a mechanic so he’s definitely overlooked them 😝. They seem to have developed a bit of a creak again now though, so may be worth revisiting.
Wondering if you are keeping a record of the finances spent on your cheapest 4.4 TDV8.... always nice to see the final cost... only I love Landrovers but nice to see what a Range Rover comparison is.... keep up the great work doing a fabulous job
I'm having a nightmare with after market front struts & air springs on my L322 TD6. I fit a new pair last October & since then due to lock downs my Fatty has covered less than 2k during that time both bearings on the top of the struts have failed & make horrible noises & the nearside airbag has failed completely as the tube under the top shroud has pulled off the fitting where it attaches to the rubber air spring. So I'm currently 350quid down & in dispute with Amazon & a marketplace seller. Oh & I've got the same Makita Impact driver as you & it's the best mechanics tool I ever bought. Cheers.... 👍
A quick safety tip, before getting underneath the Aired up suspension, wind the jack up, Range rovers have a mind of their own and can drop at anytime, you don’t want to be under a unsupported ranger rover at 2.5+ tones 😳
Great video Sam, you may also want to check the sway bar links as their bushings are known to break off. If you get a squeaky sound on bumps at low speed that's a sure sign of bushing failure . we'll be watching ! :)
Thanks! I did have a broken sway bar link early on which I replaced - and yeah, squeaky bushes at the back at low speed - so I need to take a look at them too soon.
NOOOOOO!! I can’t wait another week! Sam can’t you film an entire series so I can binge watch it on Netflix or something 😂 great video again mate, all the best, Jim.
Hi! Harry Metcalfe pointed it out: the 405 is 20 cm (?) wider. And that‘s bigger - not better. 😊 Love your channel - try to get an 3.6 back to former glory. Which is…..enthusiastic on Germany these days. But GB is great support. Gretz.
Hi Sam loving your vids , so nice to see someone working on these things in such great depth , I have just recently purchased a 2004 vogue V8 , awesome it is but unfortunately needs some work , my question to you is could you pls put up the links as to where you buy your goods, ie the dampers and the airbags much appreciated thanks and keep up the good work 👌
Brilliant work. I noticed you luckily don't have much rust at corner of rear wheel arches, bottom of rear door. Mine has started to go and its around 4 grand to do both sides. It a complex restoration job, aluminium welding including new sheets, etc. :(
Yeah, the paint is just starting to flake - so that's on my list of jobs to tackle. Going to give it a rub down and paint as soon as I get a chance. That sounds like a nightmare job to weld though!
@@SamsMotors Cool, just a heads-up, that rust is much deeper behind the panel so if it's just started then you have to strip everything behind to treat the rust. Otherwise if you paint the wheel arches alone then the rust will come back after six months if in winter. Let us know how you get on.
To prevent embarrassment when commenting on someone’s vid always make sure the comments are relevant and you have not missed any bright Orange axle stands that are clearly visible 😂
Hi mate Aerosus air bags are rubbish lots of negative feedback on them from fella owners Dunlop's or conti are the ones to buy hope you get it sorted pal 👍
These air fittings work fine as long as outer diameter of the air tube is smooth. You need to cut last 30-50mm of the tube, so that fitting seals against smooth plastic pipe OD. Your line looks already short, it seems to be prestressed as assembled (see how they tightly wrap around subframe tube).
They were tight from the factory. Mine had never been cut before (still had the 'bump' on the end of the pipe) and barely had any free length. I cut off the end 30mm to get a fresh bit of pipe when I was initially troubleshooting the leaks, but it didn't help. The Aerosus bags were leaking around the outside of the brass thread insert (not through the fitting or thread itself).
I would be tempted to strip down both rear suspension arms, check all bushes and knuckle joints first then reassemble. At least this way you know the mechanical condition before calibration
You should go ahead and also replace the rear suspension bushings (arms and stabilizer bar), they could be seized and therefore does not allow the arms to move about freely.
Thanks bud, I have calibrated it a couple of times recently - it levels the ride up nicely but doesn't affect the ride quality. I've got to try calibrating the adaptive damper soon too.
Is there much of a difference at different speeds? The slower the speed ours feels a little harsh/jiggerty but when properly moving its immensely smooth. 20” wheels don’t help. Keep up the good work 👍👍
Sadly in my experience aerosus are indeed very sus, will never use again. Great vids, always good to know there’s an army of fellow Land Rover addicts draining their bank accounts (yes I am one 😂)
Could you not put some PTFE Tape on the threads and I noticed the orange air line was pulled very tight around the axle/ upper suspension arm when suspension was at full height which could cause it to wear over time? Mick 👍🍻
I don't think the threads are leaking as the Voss fitting has an external o ring to seal them. I think they were leaking around the brass threaded insert - just poor quality manufacturing. There isn't much spare pipe on the air lines, but they won't get any tighter during driving as the top of the airbag is static relative to the subframe.
No worries! She rode in exactly the same manner with the original wheels/tyres on. Even though I've gone up to a 20" rim, the tyre sidewall is actually taller than before due to the larger tyre size - so it should in theory be at least as compliant as the 19s.
Hi ya Sam. Get your bags off air- suspension-shop- eu off ebay.German company.made to oem spec.ive changed mine on my f15 X5. On mine you put the new collet about 4 mm off the end of the pipe then you insert into the brass fitting then you screw into the bag and tighten .it squeezes on the collet making it an air tight fitting.ive had no probs.the bags are really good quality.bang on for £185 for the pair
Hey Sam loving the videos as ever but got a bit of an ask if possible. Please can I draw on your well of knowledge. I have a 4.4 petrol 2003 L322 HSE and for some reason the interior lights have stopped working when the doors are opened and I'm now left opening the doors with the key as the fobs stopped working too and the central locking button below the hazard light switch. The lights work if you press them inside except the front centre dome light. I've swapped it with the back an the same problem persists. I've read about BCM's going into transport mode but I've no clue how to get it out of it or even if it's in it to start with. I spoke to Jaguar Land Rover Manchester an they now don't even have the software to work on the car even anymore even if I was willing to pay the £180+vat an hour for Labour/Diagnostic's. Basically if this has happened to you before or you have seen it before please help. It would just finish off the car (before the next thing crops up) Many thanks in advance for your help and time Sam. Please keep doing the videos as they are absolutely belting 👍👍
Hi, thanks for the nice comments. Unfortunately I don't think you're likely to get very far with rectifying your issues without plugging the car into diagnostics to at least check for any codes. If the BCM does need resetting, again you'll need a diagnostics tool to do that. If you're planning on keeping the Rangie for a while, it would be well worth buying a tool to use on it. I'd recommend the iCarsoft LR V2 or V3 which should do everything you need.
@@SamsMotors Thank you for your help and time really appreciated. I have been looking into obd code readers as I'm definitely keeping the old girl so really appreciate the advice on what to buy I'll keep my eye out for one 👍
Not sure if this helps buts my key was knackered so got a fancy one of ebay £32 cut but you have to program yourself which is very easy. 2004 4.4petrol vogue hse
What are you basing the ride on? Previous RR or what you think it should be, have you had the alignment checked if I recall the whole rear is adjustable if the bushes are worn somewhat it might be them making the ride seem off, an alignment check would show if anything else is amiss.
I'm comparing it with how it rode on the test drive, plus all my experience as an automotive engineer to know it isn't quite right. Someone local has offered for me to drive theirs though for a comparison, which I will probably do.
I agree, I'm now leaning more towards bushings on the rear being worn. I noticed the other day that the rear end makes the characteristic L322 'squeak' over bumps which is usually worn bushings.
@@SamsMotors great vid set btw, been watching the l322 RR vogues tumble in price, read about the 3.6 tdv8 and the turbo issues so the 4.4 tdv8 is the right one, but prices are still high but you seem to have dropped on.
Sam watched your video on rear air bag .ithink I have a leak on front drivers could it be air line or bag ican hear air leaking on front and suspension drop over night and while driving. Do you have a link were I can obtain the parts for a fix.thanks mark
Hi Mark, it's much more likely to be the bag than the air line - especially if the strut is more than a few years old. If you head over to Aerosus, you can get a pretty good deal on front struts - and if you use code: SAM15 you will get an extra £15 off. Hope that helps aerosus.co.uk/land-rover/range-rover/l322-lm-2002-2012/range-rover-l322-front-right-air-suspension-strut.html
Have you changed the upper and lower rear bushes? Mine are knocking (recently changed uppers but suspect the lowers are also knackered). Makes for a rough ride over bumps.
Not touched any bushes yet, but I am beginning to suspect them. The rear end creaks a bit over bumps, so it probably does need doing. I also want to check the subframe bushes over.
Hi Sam, I’ve got the same issue as commented on your last video. I’ve redone the calibration and makes minimal difference. If the road is smooth but undulating the ride is perfect with good damping however it’s the bumps in the road that give the choppy ride - it’s horrid. Almost feels like something really heavy on a tight elastic band exaggerating the bumps. Is that similar to yours? I’m on 152k miles
Hello bud, What year is your Rangie? Sounds very similar indeed, over undulating smooth road it's fine, but any potholes or imperfections are horrible.
Not that bad really. Definitely not as stiff as the new one but not what I'd normally expect of a worn damper. These have lots of gubbins inside though so who knows if it was faulty really.
Today my garage s322 modal coming check in this car fault code checking C1A06-14 real right height sensor intermittent fault so i'm checked sensor will good and suspension leak checked no leak so what next checking no idea bro so tell me any tips ...waiting for your answer...
If it's saying there is a height sensor intermittent fault, the first action should be to check the wiring and the connections to the height sensor in question. If that checks out OK, I would look to replace the height sensor.
They don't give you much slack from the factory - and I cut about 30mm off when troubleshooting the air leaks to give a fresh end. They're still not taught or pulling though.
Are you sure the ride is abnormal, they are quite crashy over small bumps... tyres make the biggest difference to ride, summer tyres best, off-road, all terrain make the ride very crashy.
I'd be very surprised and disappointed if this is how all adaptive damped L322s rode. I'm not an expert in these things but I am pretty sensitive to how my vehicles ride - so I can usually tell when something's amiss. The car rode the same before the wheels/tyres were changed too.
PTFE wouldn't have helped - it wasn't leaking through the threads, but rather around the outside of the brass threaded insert. Basically the thread is a separate part to the rest of the air spring, and I think it wasn't sealed in properly. The Voss fittings have an external o-ring that seals the thread itself, and two internal ones that seal against the pipe.
I'll do a totting up video at some point. It was cheap enough to start off with that I'm not worried about spending a few quid sorting it out . And besides, you still might need to spend money on repairs even if you bought one for £20k.
@@YoungEngineer-ew9en because you normally are putting a new part on because the old part has failed and is no good and you have to take the faulty new part off stranding your car usually is needed to get to work the next day
I just watched this th-cam.com/video/PtfsJmzaup4/w-d-xo.html and he had a similar issue to you. Repairs the front shocks though not the rears, but maybe a similar issue?
I got two airbags from that company in Germany aerosus for my v10 touareg what an absolute piss take and here's me thinking German engineering German quality excellent but nope absolute fuck on I'll never buy from that company again
I suspect that your neighbours must be thinking that your Range Rover is testament to Land Rovers less than glowing reliability reputation 😂 I think it’s just envy
I'm no JLR expert by any means, so don't flame me out, but it always seems to be a slow march to ditching the air bags in these rigs, just to find some suspension sanity.
Maybe for some, but I'd never do that to a Range Rover. For me the EAS is one of the best features of the car, so it's worth a little hassle to get it working properly.
I've owned three of these cars over 11/12 year's and never had a single air bag issue covering well over half a million ks... In all honesty probably more durable than a stock coil spring
You go to a lot of trouble and faff to put these clips on TH-cam. Keep them coming they’re great.
Thank-you, it is a bit of a faff, but I enjoy it. Nice feedback makes all the difference though!
Sam
@@SamsMotorsI replaced my rear air springs and shocks and all the connections both front and back are good. But now I am showing adaptive dynamic fault upon start up. Any thoughts? Do you think I might need a calibration? I am able to change the ride height but with this fault I am not able to use the other terrain modes.
Nice video, demystifies the air bag system for many... most think it’s very complicated and not user friendly to work on.
Your patience is to be admired, not a single expletive heard. Maybe your editing skills are better than your self control, but I doubt that is the reason.
Another excellent video, thank you.
Bollocks isn't a real expletive.
Thank-you, much appreciated. The only times I really use expletives to full effect is where I've personally 'cocked up' doing something silly. I felt a 'bollocks' was justified in that scenario anyway!
The patience of this man, taking those bags on and off, is something else!!!
Omfg, this is a good reminder to not mess with air suspension cars...
Thanks for the great content Sam!
So replaced airbags and good qaulity shock and still not right. Not a heck of a lot left.
Been following your channel a bit now and find it a huge help. As soon as I think I wouldn’t mind giving rangies another to this cures me of the desire. Pity...great wagons but more than their share of issues. On my third Touareg after changing and. no issues what so ever. Hasn’t the class for sure...but as I’ve got older I’ll trade that for sanity any day
I so feel your pain, I had the wrong brake discs sent to me, thankfully the company (Craddock) in UK acknowledged their error and refund my money.
Bollocks! That’s our favourite word when things go wrong.
It does the job! Surprised I didn't utter a few more words at that point!
@@SamsMotors The beauty of editing! You can get away with loads.
Top channel only just started watching. Love all the Strange Rover content.
Rear knuckle hub bushings? You have a pair of them either side. They are happily overlooked by your mechanic, due to the amount of effort and complexity of the tools involved. But one of the MAIN items that affects the ride quality in high milage heavy cars. Just a pair of them fixed a wobbly and clunky back end on my Cayenne.
Done them already, and I don’t have a mechanic so he’s definitely overlooked them 😝. They seem to have developed a bit of a creak again now though, so may be worth revisiting.
Thanks Sam, have a beer on me, showed me how to do this - both dampers changed this afternoon in a little over an hour
That’s awesome, glad it was useful! 🍻🍻🍻
Great video. Some times loctite 577 can help with leaking threads like this
Wondering if you are keeping a record of the finances spent on your cheapest 4.4 TDV8.... always nice to see the final cost... only I love Landrovers but nice to see what a Range Rover comparison is.... keep up the great work doing a fabulous job
I am keeping a tally yep, I'll do a totting up video once I've gotten her to a state where I feel she's fully sorted. Thanks for the comment!
I'm having a nightmare with after market front struts & air springs on my L322 TD6. I fit a new pair last October & since then due to lock downs my Fatty has covered less than 2k during that time both bearings on the top of the struts have failed & make horrible noises & the nearside airbag has failed completely as the tube under the top shroud has pulled off the fitting where it attaches to the rubber air spring. So I'm currently 350quid down & in dispute with Amazon & a marketplace seller. Oh & I've got the same Makita Impact driver as you & it's the best mechanics tool I ever bought. Cheers.... 👍
A quick safety tip, before getting underneath the Aired up suspension, wind the jack up, Range rovers have a mind of their own and can drop at anytime, you don’t want to be under a unsupported ranger rover at 2.5+ tones 😳
Yeah that's a good point that I wouldn't have thought about that
Great video Sam, you may also want to check the sway bar links as their bushings are known to break off. If you get a squeaky sound on bumps at low speed that's a sure sign of bushing failure .
we'll be watching ! :)
Thanks! I did have a broken sway bar link early on which I replaced - and yeah, squeaky bushes at the back at low speed - so I need to take a look at them too soon.
Great informative video showing how to change the airbags and dampers hopefully you’ll get the ride sorted soon
Cheers Mark, the IID tool is working great by the way!
Great videos, thanks for all your efforts in making them. A real education for fellow owners.
Thankyou, much appreciated. Glad they're useful!
NOOOOOO!! I can’t wait another week! Sam can’t you film an entire series so I can binge watch it on Netflix or something 😂 great video again mate, all the best, Jim.
I'd love to Jim. Netflix, if you're listening, sign me up! What do you think for a title? "The Range Rover Diaries"? "Man vs. Range Rover?"
Great video again Sam, I hope you get the issue with the rough ride sorted. Thank you for your efforts 😊👍🏼👏👏👏👏👏👏
Hi Sam
Great video and seeing you in action on the Rangie.
Warm regards
Richard
I feel your pain so frustrating mate shouldnt have to deal with faulty brand new parts
Top upload again 👍 really interesting
I have the same Mikita ugger-dugger gun... it’s awesome, just need to be careful not to strip bolts!
She's a beast!
Hi! Harry Metcalfe pointed it out: the 405 is 20 cm (?) wider. And that‘s bigger - not better. 😊
Love your channel - try to get an 3.6 back to former glory. Which is…..enthusiastic on Germany these days. But GB is great support. Gretz.
Very good point! The L322 is about as big as I’d reasonably want in the UK/Ireland. I’d love to buy a 3.6 at some point for a project.
Hi Sam loving your vids , so nice to see someone working on these things in such great depth , I have just recently purchased a 2004 vogue V8 , awesome it is but unfortunately needs some work , my question to you is could you pls put up the links as to where you buy your goods, ie the dampers and the airbags much appreciated thanks and keep up the good work 👌
Very nice, thanks for the update.
Amen, Blessings.. Range Rover and new parts.. Party time lol
Bollocks..! Plan B
Brilliant work. I noticed you luckily don't have much rust at corner of rear wheel arches, bottom of rear door. Mine has started to go and its around 4 grand to do both sides. It a complex restoration job, aluminium welding including new sheets, etc. :(
Yeah, the paint is just starting to flake - so that's on my list of jobs to tackle. Going to give it a rub down and paint as soon as I get a chance. That sounds like a nightmare job to weld though!
@@SamsMotors Cool, just a heads-up, that rust is much deeper behind the panel so if it's just started then you have to strip everything behind to treat the rust. Otherwise if you paint the wheel arches alone then the rust will come back after six months if in winter. Let us know how you get on.
Excellent video, once again, keep up the good work 👍👍👍
Thanks, much appreciated!
When crawling under the car please use axel stands. Especially when you have worked in the suspension minutes ago.
There is an axle stand there. Have another look!!
To prevent embarrassment when commenting on someone’s vid always make sure the comments are relevant and you have not missed any bright Orange axle stands that are clearly visible 😂
@@marcuscopley131 I couldn’t see an axel stand when he was under there spraying soapy water.
Hi mate Aerosus air bags are rubbish lots of negative feedback on them from fella owners Dunlop's or conti are the ones to buy hope you get it sorted pal 👍
These air fittings work fine as long as outer diameter of the air tube is smooth. You need to cut last 30-50mm of the tube, so that fitting seals against smooth plastic pipe OD. Your line looks already short, it seems to be prestressed as assembled (see how they tightly wrap around subframe tube).
They were tight from the factory. Mine had never been cut before (still had the 'bump' on the end of the pipe) and barely had any free length.
I cut off the end 30mm to get a fresh bit of pipe when I was initially troubleshooting the leaks, but it didn't help.
The Aerosus bags were leaking around the outside of the brass thread insert (not through the fitting or thread itself).
@@SamsMotors Sure. Good luck 🤞.
Your sure know your stuff Sam 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Cheers, hopefully some of my ramblings are useful!
I would be tempted to strip down both rear suspension arms, check all bushes and knuckle joints first then reassemble. At least this way you know the mechanical condition before calibration
You should go ahead and also replace the rear suspension bushings (arms and stabilizer bar), they could be seized and therefore does not allow the arms to move about freely.
Could you use ptfe tape on the air bag fitting pal ??
I can’t believe you put your trust in a scissor jack!!!
Hi Sam have you done a recalibration of the suspension? This has to be done when ever the air bags or struts are changed hope this helps .
Thanks bud, I have calibrated it a couple of times recently - it levels the ride up nicely but doesn't affect the ride quality. I've got to try calibrating the adaptive damper soon too.
Hope you get sorted .
@15:04 Jeremy Clarkson would be proud of the tool used and the method.
Music to his ears
Is there much of a difference at different speeds? The slower the speed ours feels a little harsh/jiggerty but when properly moving its immensely smooth. 20” wheels don’t help. Keep up the good work 👍👍
Another good vid How much had this cost you already to keep on the road.
Be sure to treat those arches as corrosion develops rapidly on these especially under the plastic sill covers 😁
It's on the list of jobs - the only trouble is the list keeps getting new jobs added to the top!
@@SamsMotors as I found out myself it never ends but eventually you will get there and be an owner of an awesome l322 👌
Have you checked the wires on top of the front two dampers. These tend to wear and need a bit of solder. They affect the whole adaptive system.
Thanks
You’re very welcome, cheers for the parts money!! 🍻🍻🍻
Try using plumbers gas engineers leak detection fluid it non soapy so when you spray you can see where leak is coming from
Sadly in my experience aerosus are indeed very sus, will never use again. Great vids, always good to know there’s an army of fellow Land Rover addicts draining their bank accounts (yes I am one 😂)
Yeah a bit disappointed by that really, when I found the website I thought I'd found a gem. Sadly not! Still waiting for my refund from them too...
Could you not put some PTFE Tape on the threads and I noticed the orange air line was pulled very tight around the axle/ upper suspension arm when suspension was at full height which could cause it to wear over time? Mick 👍🍻
I don't think the threads are leaking as the Voss fitting has an external o ring to seal them. I think they were leaking around the brass threaded insert - just poor quality manufacturing.
There isn't much spare pipe on the air lines, but they won't get any tighter during driving as the top of the airbag is static relative to the subframe.
non setting jointing compound on thread of fitting, jobs a goodun
Cool, found it.
Hi ya
Can you do a video for changing the FRONT airbag on your RR
Strangely totally engaging....!
It's not strange, Range Rovers are interesting things!
@@SamsMotors We mean, it's a great vid too! We're fan's here!!
Thanks for the great content. To what extent do you think the upgraded rims and lower profile tyres are affecting your ride quality?
No worries! She rode in exactly the same manner with the original wheels/tyres on. Even though I've gone up to a 20" rim, the tyre sidewall is actually taller than before due to the larger tyre size - so it should in theory be at least as compliant as the 19s.
Hi ya Sam. Get your bags off air- suspension-shop- eu off ebay.German company.made to oem spec.ive changed mine on my f15 X5. On mine you put the new collet about 4 mm off the end of the pipe then you insert into the brass fitting then you screw into the bag and tighten .it squeezes on the collet making it an air tight fitting.ive had no probs.the bags are really good quality.bang on for £185 for the pair
hi sam would you recommend. underselling my 2007 Range Rover sport enjoy the programme stay safe
Hey Sam loving the videos as ever but got a bit of an ask if possible. Please can I draw on your well of knowledge. I have a 4.4 petrol 2003 L322 HSE and for some reason the interior lights have stopped working when the doors are opened and I'm now left opening the doors with the key as the fobs stopped working too and the central locking button below the hazard light switch. The lights work if you press them inside except the front centre dome light. I've swapped it with the back an the same problem persists. I've read about BCM's going into transport mode but I've no clue how to get it out of it or even if it's in it to start with. I spoke to Jaguar Land Rover Manchester an they now don't even have the software to work on the car even anymore even if I was willing to pay the £180+vat an hour for Labour/Diagnostic's. Basically if this has happened to you before or you have seen it before please help. It would just finish off the car (before the next thing crops up) Many thanks in advance for your help and time Sam. Please keep doing the videos as they are absolutely belting 👍👍
Hi, thanks for the nice comments.
Unfortunately I don't think you're likely to get very far with rectifying your issues without plugging the car into diagnostics to at least check for any codes. If the BCM does need resetting, again you'll need a diagnostics tool to do that.
If you're planning on keeping the Rangie for a while, it would be well worth buying a tool to use on it. I'd recommend the iCarsoft LR V2 or V3 which should do everything you need.
@@SamsMotors Thank you for your help and time really appreciated. I have been looking into obd code readers as I'm definitely keeping the old girl so really appreciate the advice on what to buy I'll keep my eye out for one 👍
Not sure if this helps buts my key was knackered so got a fancy one of ebay £32 cut but you have to program yourself which is very easy. 2004 4.4petrol vogue hse
What are you basing the ride on? Previous RR or what you think it should be, have you had the alignment checked if I recall the whole rear is adjustable if the bushes are worn somewhat it might be them making the ride seem off, an alignment check would show if anything else is amiss.
I'm comparing it with how it rode on the test drive, plus all my experience as an automotive engineer to know it isn't quite right. Someone local has offered for me to drive theirs though for a comparison, which I will probably do.
But yes, bushes and alignment are also on the list 👌
Sam have you got any further on the bouncy ride??
I suspect bushings, a failed bush would give the kind of play you are describing.
I agree, I'm now leaning more towards bushings on the rear being worn. I noticed the other day that the rear end makes the characteristic L322 'squeak' over bumps which is usually worn bushings.
@@SamsMotors great vid set btw, been watching the l322 RR vogues tumble in price, read about the 3.6 tdv8 and the turbo issues so the 4.4 tdv8 is the right one, but prices are still high but you seem to have dropped on.
Sam watched your video on rear air bag .ithink I have a leak on front drivers could it be air line or bag ican hear air leaking on front and suspension drop over night and while driving. Do you have a link were I can obtain the parts for a fix.thanks mark
Hi Mark, it's much more likely to be the bag than the air line - especially if the strut is more than a few years old.
If you head over to Aerosus, you can get a pretty good deal on front struts - and if you use code: SAM15 you will get an extra £15 off.
Hope that helps
aerosus.co.uk/land-rover/range-rover/l322-lm-2002-2012/range-rover-l322-front-right-air-suspension-strut.html
Hi Sam just wondering if the original dampers are potentially able to be reconditioned or is it prudent to replace the offending article? Many thanks.
Sam hi !
where do you get them new airbag fittings?
many thanks
Hello, LR044836 is the part number. You can get them from a few different suppliers!
do you happen to have your old interior by any chance,if so would yo sell it.
duff damper causes a bouncy crashy ride, like washboard. you know it when you have one.
Whats the cable in the top of the damper for?
Bouncy crashy is about right. Both rear dampers are new Bilsteins now. The wire is because it's an adaptive damper system
What do think the problem is if the front floats after going over speed bumps or bumps on the highway? Only the front does this.
Front dampers/struts need replacing probably. What year?
2014
Have you changed the upper and lower rear bushes? Mine are knocking (recently changed uppers but suspect the lowers are also knackered). Makes for a rough ride over bumps.
Not touched any bushes yet, but I am beginning to suspect them. The rear end creaks a bit over bumps, so it probably does need doing. I also want to check the subframe bushes over.
@@SamsMotors The lower bush is notorious for creaking when they dry out. There is/was loads of play with the wheel off the ground on the top bush.
When you finishing the Land Rover defender off mate?
Sam any further on with the harsh rear ride yet?
Hi Tom, sadly not. Got another video coming on that soon though.
Can you possibly tell me where you got your SDD software? All the websites selling it just seem dodgy
I got mine from cartool.co.uk. It does look dodgy, but mine arrived pretty quickly and works great.
Have you checked the bushings
They're on the list 👍
have you got the original wheels and tyres to try/eliminate?
I don't, they were sold. However, the car rode the same before the wheels/tyres were changed.
I may have missed this but how much milage does this range rover have now?
Just over 191k now.
Where are you Sam!? A new clip on the way?
More coming soon buddy!
Next time the fuel filter:-)
Noticed the arch liner has something connecting it to the car at the back, what is it?
It's just an unused electrical connector for something, but it's secured to the outside of the liner for some reason.
TPMS receiver when fitted
Hi Sam, I’ve got the same issue as commented on your last video. I’ve redone the calibration and makes minimal difference. If the road is smooth but undulating the ride is perfect with good damping however it’s the bumps in the road that give the choppy ride - it’s horrid. Almost feels like something really heavy on a tight elastic band exaggerating the bumps. Is that similar to yours? I’m on 152k miles
Hello bud,
What year is your Rangie? Sounds very similar indeed, over undulating smooth road it's fine, but any potholes or imperfections are horrible.
@@SamsMotors 2011 4.4tdv8. Think we’ve got exactly the same issue. Thinking it could be the subframe bushes, front dampers or engine/box mounts
any update on the issue/fix? I have same thing going on with my 2011
@@REEVES636 new oem front dampers sorted mine
BRITPART if you feel lucky
How loose and sloppy was the old damper? did it squidge down easily compared to the new one?
Not that bad really. Definitely not as stiff as the new one but not what I'd normally expect of a worn damper. These have lots of gubbins inside though so who knows if it was faulty really.
Suspension fault how to identify which fault code coming so tell me bro..
Today my garage s322 modal coming check in this car fault code checking C1A06-14 real right height sensor intermittent fault so i'm checked sensor will good and suspension leak checked no leak so what next checking no idea bro so tell me any tips ...waiting for your answer...
If it's saying there is a height sensor intermittent fault, the first action should be to check the wiring and the connections to the height sensor in question. If that checks out OK, I would look to replace the height sensor.
Are you sure it's not the wheel changes you made?
She rode exactly the same with the previous wheels. Worse, even - but that was before I changed the damper etc.
You needed to do both sides
Both sides have new matching dampers now.
So many innuendos...
On a serious note are the airline's meant to be so tight? That orange one looks like it's being pulled out?
They don't give you much slack from the factory - and I cut about 30mm off when troubleshooting the air leaks to give a fresh end. They're still not taught or pulling though.
What sort of impact gun is that mate?
It's a Makita DTW450, 1/2" 18V with a 5AH battery. She's a beast!
Are you sure the ride is abnormal, they are quite crashy over small bumps... tyres make the biggest difference to ride, summer tyres best, off-road, all terrain make the ride very crashy.
I'd be very surprised and disappointed if this is how all adaptive damped L322s rode. I'm not an expert in these things but I am pretty sensitive to how my vehicles ride - so I can usually tell when something's amiss.
The car rode the same before the wheels/tyres were changed too.
Lesson number 1 with land rovers... if it ain't broke, don't fix it
Could you have not used some ptfe tape on the threads to help seal them? Not saying a faulty part shouldn't be returned though.
Thought exactly the same
PTFE wouldn't have helped - it wasn't leaking through the threads, but rather around the outside of the brass threaded insert. Basically the thread is a separate part to the rest of the air spring, and I think it wasn't sealed in properly. The Voss fittings have an external o-ring that seals the thread itself, and two internal ones that seal against the pipe.
Surely this is becoming the most expensive cheapest Range Rover TDV8?
I'll do a totting up video at some point.
It was cheap enough to start off with that I'm not worried about spending a few quid sorting it out . And besides, you still might need to spend money on repairs even if you bought one for £20k.
If you change those Bilstein's to the older non adjustable type I'll give you £50 for them :-)
How much are the genune air bags you have got to watch ebay for selling crap stuff
Genuine ones are lots... Around £250+VAT each. Bilstein do them at £150+VAT each though so I may try them in the future.
Advanced Factors I’d try
What an arse hate when you put new parts on your in worse situation than you were when you started. Have you done the glow plugs on a rangy before?
Why would he be in a worse situation than before??
@@YoungEngineer-ew9en because you normally are putting a new part on because the old part has failed and is no good and you have to take the faulty new part off stranding your car usually is needed to get to work the next day
I just watched this th-cam.com/video/PtfsJmzaup4/w-d-xo.html and he had a similar issue to you. Repairs the front shocks though not the rears, but maybe a similar issue?
Thanks Andy, same system but different issue I think. I don't have any warning lights or codes on mine to point me in the right direction!
Torque setting FT.
Yep, or 5 ugga-duggas
I got two airbags from that company in Germany aerosus for my v10 touareg what an absolute piss take and here's me thinking German engineering German quality excellent but nope absolute fuck on I'll never buy from that company again
I suspect that your neighbours must be thinking that your Range Rover is testament to Land Rovers less than glowing reliability reputation 😂 I think it’s just envy
They definitely give it/me a few dirty looks when they see me out there every weekend!
I'm no JLR expert by any means, so don't flame me out, but it always seems to be a slow march to ditching the air bags in these rigs, just to find some suspension sanity.
Maybe for some, but I'd never do that to a Range Rover. For me the EAS is one of the best features of the car, so it's worth a little hassle to get it working properly.
I've owned three of these cars over 11/12 year's and never had a single air bag issue covering well over half a million ks... In all honesty probably more durable than a stock coil spring
@@dave216dx I've seen over half a dozen failures of different kinds, but in truth these have mostly been in Discos, and not as common in Ranges.